Dude, there is so much to love about this channel, the skills, the sarcasm and......the music choices. Boogy Chillen and, the lesser played Deep Purple Lazy, both examples of a higher plane of understanding.
"These trucks were only meant to last about 10 or 15 years and yet this one was on the road up until a couple years ago.." That knowledge alone is worth subscribing to your channel. The truth is that the majority of the "nice" iron isn't affordable, so you need to realize what you are starting with.. Great job as always! Much appreciated and amazing content as always!
@@CarterAutoRestyling I'm of the same thinking... I'd rather have 'honest rust' than a 'pig wearing lipstick' auditioning for the Ohhhh.... Shiiiineeeeey...... crowd. Simply NOT to be digging filler, newspaper, steel wool, paper plates, masking tape, window screen....etc....etc.... out of previously 'professionally restored' body work which came with either a 'threshold or taillight warranty'... Keep up the great work, and IF we happen to gain some knowledge along the way... well personally... I consider that a definite bonus for the viewing audience.
I think it’s been a lot longer than a couple of years since that old birds been on the back roads… More like 30/40 years If that is the same truck that you bought from Scott....Great content by the way!
I like that you don't give up; dents, rust, and suicidal thoughts don't stop you from charging forward into the sheet metal abyss. You just pump yourself full of homemade prozac and head back out to your garage for another round of abuse. Personally, I don't think you'd make it without your therapy cats. Here's hoping you keep yourself together long enough to finish this truck.
My dad used to squirt used engine oil into the chassis and under the car. But that was on old banger he used for work. Great rust conversation. Bloody road salt has a lot to answer for. 👍👍
That was a common side hustle when I lived in New Hampshire. For a few dollars more you could get a premium job with new Bar & Chain oil. Then hit your favorite dirt road to soak up all the oil and help it stick.
@@CarterAutoRestyling I had a buddy in New Hampshire that owned a body shop. I was there one day when he was drilling holes into a brand new Mercedes’ in preparation to oil everything. Little plastic pop in plugs made it easy to renew next fall.
Glad to watch you fix junk from nothing to something I would be proud to own. I like these old truck but they require to much repair for me to do, but your knowledge and skills do wonders. I will keep watching. and dreaming that it will last another 70 years.
The way you explained why you brace the bits where you did was really easy to understand. I also liked the way you explained the ways to remove spot welds without the risk of an ice pick attack
I would add Serves You Right To Suffer by John Lee Hooker to your music selections. I attribute 90% of my hearing loss to listening to the J. Geils version of the song at high volumes. Thank you for making a well produced video.
USE COMMON SENSE, BUT KYLE, THAT IS A VERY UNCOMMON THING. Your use of the drill bits to remove the panel is a great idea. I will using that approach very soon. Your growing number of subscribers is coming along nicely. One of my car buddies was not yet subscribed, so we watched a couple of your reruns. He has subscribed now. Kyle, thank you for taking your time to teach us. It really is appreciated.
Thanks for convincing your friend to subscribe! This show needs all the help it can get so it's much appreciated when loyal viewers like yourself force their friends and/or family to watch and subscribe haha!
another excellent tutorial i love seeing the dead bought back to life,as i have said before what you are working on is the norm for us in oz anything better than that one is usually pretty rare. as you have shown the way the car is disassembled is as important as the reconstruction and this is what a lot of the other channels don't show. you are right about us not being here in 70 years time....i don't think i will still be doing this stuff when i am 145 years old....but then i have been wrong before haha many thanks for continuing these video's for us lesser mortals joe
Thanks Joe! Seems like people keep living longer so I guess it doesn't hurt to do a little planning for the future! I'd hate to have to be redoing all my work in 70 years haha
You're so right with those old vehicles not being undercoated or even painted, and look how long those panels last. The same thing with my 36, I pulled the door skin off and some of the frame members and structure has never had paint, but yet I'm painting it with rust preventive paint. Go figure, right! Nice work Kyle, look forward to the series.
I used the drill bits that are made for removing spot welds, the ones I really like are not the small hole saw version but the drill bits that just have a more shallow head on them. They do not cut the base metal or leave a divot, and they are very fast, no need to change the drill bit sizes. I had to remove about 300 spot welds on a roof and donor roof and these saved me.
I don't know if you ever were a teacher, but you do a great job of explaining how to do something. This work can be pretty tedious but worth it in the end. You had me laughing about don't sweat the thought of rust coming back. You're right, I won't be here in 70 years. Look forward to more!
Thanks for the kind words Dan! I have 0 teaching experience and wouldn't know what to do with a classroom filled with students, so I'm glad that some of my rambling can be understood by others!
Yet another great learning experience ..... the way you deliver your content keeps the video interesting and goes by fast ....looking forward to the next one ....
I really like these videos. I'm learning so much and will be ready to do bodywork in the spring. When I bought my 53 3100 in 1980 I lived in the desert and moved to Indiana in 1989 and parked it. It's not near as bad as the trucks you work on. Your videos show me what the inside structure looks like. The part where the cool sparkles came right at the camera is super cool in slow motion. Thank you for your time.
I'm glad to hear you're getting something out of these videos that will help you with your truck! The special effects team is pleased that you enjoyed the sparkles haha
I think your good at what you do. I'm a body man myself and would let you do any of my hot rods . And I'm very picky about my stuff . So please keep up the good work . And for all the haters . Hell with them . Thanks for the videos. Tolleys towing
Hey Kyle. Thanks for the tips on removing spot welds. I can see where there would be times where one technique is easier to do in a particular spot than another and knowing both will certainly help. In regards to the new vehicles replacing the old, I had rust appear in a 5-year-old GM sedan that was rust-treated from new. It was where the trunk spoiler met the trunk and was about the size of a thumb-tack when I bought the car. It is also amazing how FAST the newer cars rust once it gets hold compared to the old ones. In two years of sitting outside, that GM ended up with a rust patch where the scale under the paint on that thumb-tack sized bubble had gotten so bad that removing it left a hole about the size of one of those cab-mount washers....and no, we didn't have acid rain and we don't salt our roads. Compare that to my 1977 BL Mini - which never had the best reputation for remaining rust free to begin with.....in fact, I think it was standard fitment from the factory. That has sat outside for two years now and yes, the rust it had has gotten worse, but it's nowhere on the scale of the efforts of the 2004 GM Holden Commodore. I'm looking forward to pulling the Mini inside in the next couple of months to sort its rust issues and will be using one or both of your demonstrated spot-weld removal techniques on the front panel (it not only has conventional rust, but also a bad repair that has been damaged again by another minor bump and cracked the filler, let water in and it's rusting happily under that too). I did have some trepidation about the fact, but seeing the different stages of spot weld removal and what to look for has relaxed me on that score, so again, many thanks. All the best!
That thinning out the top piece with the grinder over the spot welds is how I did my first real car restoration thing, replacing floor pans in an MGB. Worked really well. But I've never seen that seam splitting tool before. That would have been very useful!
Another entertaining show! I really enjoyed the middle part about rust prevention and your eventual descent into madness along with the fact that for most of us viewers, death is lurking around the corner... that was simply inspiring. Cheers?
In 70 years time I’m going to be 120. As I’m dribbling with my cornflakes, I don’t want to be having a panic attack memory of the rusting out on the floor of this truck. Thanks for clarifying your estimation that your new repair will probably outlast the original job.
i WAS SO GLAD TO SEE YOU WERE USING A LIGHT FOR WELDING - I THOUGHT ONLY i DID STUFF LIKE THAT. i CAN'T SEE THE WELD UNLESS i HAVE A GOOD BEAM SHINING ON IT
I think that one of the important things to consider is that how a vehicle rusts depends on where it lives. Oddly, vehicles in northern areas seem to not have as much rust inside of crossmembers and such as cars that live in more humid climates. Northern cars primarily rot where the road salt hits them. Cars in places like Florida though, seem to rot from the inside out and top down.The cold too is a net preserver of metal on cars that are off the road since snow and ice don't react with the steel like liquid water does, and cold temperatures slow down the chemical reaction of oxidation. That truck would have been a pile of rust and glass on the ground in Florida if it was abandoned in a field that long down here. It may be that your viewers have a different perspective depending on where they live. Also, newer vehicles are made of different steels than older ones. The newer steel has a higher strength to weight ratio than the old mild steel at the expense of being more prone to corrosion. This is why most newer cars (last 30 years or so) are painted on the inside and outside unlike the older ones that used thicker, less corrosion prone steels. And yes... I do like hearing myself type. However, comments are a net positive for any channel as it drives up the engagement metrics, so learn to see them as a positive even if you find them annoying. After all, you don't have to respond to all of them.
Great work as always. Thanks for showing practical ways. I love the 19 minute mark where you are welding in the cab with cans of solvent in the foreground. Beautiful 'mis en scene'
The first car I tried metalwork on was a 63 Triumph. I bought a Bernzomatic SolidOx kit. It worked ok on sheet metal but I discovered the smaller Ox pellets I could heat the steel till it puddled then turn the fuel off and I could burn the top layer of metal away from the spot welds. Slick but pricey.
Great stuff. A word of warning on dull drill bits. I was buying the cheap 10-pack from Harbor Freight. They dull quickly. I had planned on swapping to a new bit on the next spot-weld, bit broke, drill jumped and I stabbed my thumb. Ouch. Been 15 years almost and it still tingles from time to time. I buy better bits now. Just be careful!
Sorry to hear about your thumb! I watched a guy drill a hole through his hand with an expensive half inch drill bit, so any drill bit can be dangerous!
i love work !! can watch for hours !! espcially if someone like you or coldwarmotors do what they do , its lovely to see sombody doart i am attempting to replicate on modern shit . ive worked on modern type cars for 30 + years and its getting wors year after year , every time i split open a rust buckett it seams to be less and lesser welding holding them together but more layers of seam sealer that holds the water and slit open the metal after few years. thanx a thousendfold for showing art at its best !
Hi kyle my sentiments exactly about new cars ive had my 76 f250 for 34yrs an 82 f100 for 20yrs an i will never have a new anything an the truck is coming together nicely . Cheers mate 🇦🇺
The explanation at 12:00 onwards is mostly correct. However both sides of the floor for sure have gotten wet multiple times. The actual reason for only the top side rusting is the carpet and the stuff ending up laying in between on the moisture never being cleaned. This is the reason cars rust inside out especially when not being used or cleaned, even washed. This is also the reason these closed spaces like rockers are oiled from the inside where the moisture cannot get out leading to this amount of rust just like in those cab corners. Hope this made sense and gave an idea of how the corrosion works.
The quality of steel used to make these vehicles was much better for sure manufacturers have been building with lower quality structures , all are not good and some worse than others , labour and component costs are getting out of reach Repair what you have and treat the areas of repair for successful save of treasures Thanks for the great info and tips Keep 'em coming !
cool mine is only 42 years old vaper blasted every bit of it only place rusted though was corners of windsheild .Was super glad of this .Yours will be very nice i am sure .It's coming along well done great tips thank you
Coming along nicely! I bought those spot weld drill bits myself, but find myself using a regular drill bit also, sine they are cheaper and move around less.
I hope you don't mind I played Back biters and syndicators by Mr. Hooker. Totally agree with you about new vehicles. I have my 1950 Mercury one ton that stays in the shop, and my 85 dodge prospector is my go to everyday truck. I did buy a new car in 2015 because I needed cheap reliable transportation. Nissan Micra, 9999.00 new with a 5 year warranty. I figure I hate new cars so if i'm buying something I hate I may as well buy the cheapest one.
Well seeing as how that's also a good musical selection I'll let it slide this time! I like your thinking on buying the cheapest car for a commuter, if I actually went anywhere I'd probably do the same haha.
Is it true that Canadian GQ (Grafting Quarters) is doing a photo shoot featuring your rust repair work and outfits? You will look great in Rust Lauren’s Winter Collection.
Sitting watching this with a glass of red and the underfloor heating warming my feet doesn't diminish my respect for your skills. Two things occur: I understand about keeping the heat from welding down by 'stitching', but you appear to keep stitch on stitch so why not weld continuously - admittedly in some places you do, and I was going to ask if you don't like snow why don't you move somewhere warmer and then realised that in Canada you can't. On the other hand in Wales it's just effing wet all the time.
Try welding continously on sheetmetal and report back on your findings haha. There are places on the west coast here that stay pretty warm all winter, however you also pay for the privilege to live there, plus they have a lot of stupid rules regarding old cars, so I'll stick to the frozen tundra haha
You have a lot of major surgery to do there Doc hope the patient lives. I don't weld with my Mig very often but I am thinking you spot weld to keep the metal from warping or am I completely wrong? That was pretty good that you also drilled out the spot welds and the panel came loose. Great tips for beginning sheet metal repair. Thanks for another informative video>
I use a stitch welding technique as continious welding on sheetmetal just causes the edges to burn away. I'm not concerned with warping on the floor or lower door pillar, but if I was I would still use stitch welding and just weld about 1/2" at a time and let the metal cool in between to prevent warping
Initially, it looked like a Delta 88. (Buick?) A friend in high school bought a FoDo 88 of that era for $50. It ran great was straight, except for the right front. Same color, but oxidized; it had zero rust.
In this video you demonstrate how to remove spot welds with a grinding wheel on the floor panel, why not do the same on spot welds of the outer side panel spot welds on the A pillar?
You had mentioned several times in this episode. "Please excuse my ignorance", Seam Sealer. What is that? Is it something that I can get down at the local auto parts store? I guess I would ask the parts person, "where's the seam sealer"?
It's meant for sealing up joints and welds on panels, kind of like household caulking(but don't use the household stuff on a car) You can buy it at Napa, or any Autobody supply store
I don't think the Steel back then was better as some think, it's just that the steel used to build these cars and trucks was obviously much thicker-two or three times compared to what's used today, thicker is not rust resistant, it just takes longer to rust away..
Dude, there is so much to love about this channel, the skills, the sarcasm and......the music choices. Boogy Chillen and, the lesser played Deep Purple Lazy, both examples of a higher plane of understanding.
Thanks John! I'm really glad you enjoy this show!
After watching your videos I believe some people can make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. Keep up the great videos.
Thanks, will do!
"These trucks were only meant to last about 10 or 15 years and yet this one was on the road up until a couple years ago.." That knowledge alone is worth subscribing to your channel. The truth is that the majority of the "nice" iron isn't affordable, so you need to realize what you are starting with.. Great job as always! Much appreciated and amazing content as always!
Thank you! I'd rather start with junk than something thats been tarted up to look nice
@@CarterAutoRestyling I'm of the same thinking...
I'd rather have 'honest rust' than a 'pig wearing lipstick' auditioning for the Ohhhh.... Shiiiineeeeey...... crowd.
Simply NOT to be digging filler, newspaper, steel wool, paper plates, masking tape, window screen....etc....etc.... out of previously 'professionally restored' body work which came with either a 'threshold or taillight warranty'...
Keep up the great work, and IF we happen to gain some knowledge along the way... well personally... I consider that a definite bonus for the viewing audience.
I think it’s been a lot longer than a couple of years since that old birds been on the back roads… More like 30/40 years If that is the same truck that you bought from Scott....Great content by the way!
@@idlabi The cab I'm repairing came off a truck that was still in use up until a couple years ago.
I agree. But I’d say that that any aftermarket metal will only last that 10-15 yrs
I like that you don't give up; dents, rust, and suicidal thoughts don't stop you from charging forward into the sheet metal abyss. You just pump yourself full of homemade prozac and head back out to your garage for another round of abuse. Personally, I don't think you'd make it without your therapy cats. Here's hoping you keep yourself together long enough to finish this truck.
It's a race to the bottom to see who gives up first, the truck or me.
My dad used to squirt used engine oil into the chassis and under the car. But that was on old banger he used for work. Great rust conversation. Bloody road salt has a lot to answer for. 👍👍
That was a common side hustle when I lived in New Hampshire. For a few dollars more you could get a premium job with new Bar & Chain oil.
Then hit your favorite dirt road to soak up all the oil and help it stick.
Oh yeah that's a good cheap alternative! Just don't tell that to any painters at a bodyshop or they will have a meltdown haha
@@CarterAutoRestyling I had a buddy in New Hampshire that owned a body shop. I was there one day when he was drilling holes into a brand new Mercedes’ in preparation to oil everything. Little plastic pop in plugs made it easy to renew next fall.
I admire your cheerful assessment that the truck "lasted" 70 years.
Wow thank you Phillip!
Glad to watch you fix junk from nothing to something I would be proud to own. I like these old truck but they require to much repair for me to do, but your knowledge and skills do wonders. I will keep watching. and dreaming that it will last another 70 years.
Thanks Gary!
Thanks for showing us how to do this and get rid of the Swiss cheese metal.
The Master is hard at work ...and KNOWS how to us his tools.... great info...Great man....
Thanks for the kind words!
Im glad its you working on her....I don't like working in the cold anymore... Great work.
Haha I hate the cold!
@@CarterAutoRestyling You need to move to a warmer climate then, im working on that too.
The way you explained why you brace the bits where you did was really easy to understand. I also liked the way you explained the ways to remove spot welds without the risk of an ice pick attack
Thanks I'm glad you liked it! I'm pleased to report a 17% decrease in ice pick attacks since this video was released
I would add Serves You Right To Suffer by John Lee Hooker to your music selections. I attribute 90% of my hearing loss to listening to the J. Geils version of the song at high volumes. Thank you for making a well produced video.
You da man, Kyle! Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead!
Haha will do!
Gotta love the drill out method for spot welds. Unlike 40 years ago, there’s no scarcity of bargain bits at Canadian Tire.
Canadian tire is a life saver haha
I really enjoy watching you repair the old panels. I am looking forward to see what this truck becomes!
Thanks, glad to hear you enjoy it!
USE COMMON SENSE, BUT KYLE,
THAT IS A VERY UNCOMMON THING.
Your use of the drill bits to remove the panel is a great idea.
I will using that approach very soon.
Your growing number of subscribers is coming along nicely.
One of my car buddies was not yet subscribed, so we watched a couple of your reruns. He has subscribed now.
Kyle, thank you for taking your time to teach us. It really is appreciated.
Thanks for convincing your friend to subscribe! This show needs all the help it can get so it's much appreciated when loyal viewers like yourself force their friends and/or family to watch and subscribe haha!
another excellent tutorial i love seeing the dead bought back to life,as i have said before what you are working on is the norm for us in oz anything better than that one is usually pretty rare.
as you have shown the way the car is disassembled is as important as the reconstruction and this is what a lot of the other channels don't show.
you are right about us not being here in 70 years time....i don't think i will still be doing this stuff when i am 145 years old....but then i have been wrong before haha
many thanks for continuing these video's for us lesser mortals joe
Thanks Joe! Seems like people keep living longer so I guess it doesn't hurt to do a little planning for the future! I'd hate to have to be redoing all my work in 70 years haha
The Rust might be fighting you Kyle but I know it's trembling in it's boots!!! 😆
Haha thanks Glenn. It's all about intimidating the rust!
I wish you were my neighbor here in the Seattle area so we could binge bodywork....on my 71 chevelle heap...and admire yer Katz. You are a craftsman.
Thank you!
You're so right with those old vehicles not being undercoated or even painted, and look how long those panels last. The same thing with my 36, I pulled the door skin off and some of the frame members and structure has never had paint, but yet I'm painting it with rust preventive paint. Go figure, right! Nice work Kyle, look forward to the series.
Thanks Ken! They sure weren't too worried about rust back then, but it doesn't hurt to paint as much as possible during the rebuild!
I used the drill bits that are made for removing spot welds, the ones I really like are not the small hole saw version but the drill bits that just have a more shallow head on them. They do not cut the base metal or leave a divot, and they are very fast, no need to change the drill bit sizes. I had to remove about 300 spot welds on a roof and donor roof and these saved me.
Nicely done, great info for the weekend bodywork enthusiasts. 👍
Thank you!
this episode really had me floored, the rest of the episode you really knew your drill, and was spot on ,,,,, rob NZ
Haha thanks Rob!
Interesting what time can do and not do over time with to steel 🙃 thats a very cute mouse 😉🙃😎 NZ
I don't know if you ever were a teacher, but you do a great job of explaining how to do something. This work can be pretty tedious but worth it in the end. You had me laughing about don't sweat the thought of rust coming back. You're right, I won't be here in 70 years. Look forward to more!
Thanks for the kind words Dan! I have 0 teaching experience and wouldn't know what to do with a classroom filled with students, so I'm glad that some of my rambling can be understood by others!
Yet another great learning experience ..... the way you deliver your content keeps the video interesting and goes by fast ....looking forward to the next one ....
Thanks Joe!
Thanks for the entertainment, look forward to the next one
Thanks for watching George!
I really like these videos. I'm learning so much and will be ready to do bodywork in the spring. When I bought my 53 3100 in 1980 I lived in the desert and moved to Indiana in 1989 and parked it. It's not near as bad as the trucks you work on. Your videos show me what the inside structure looks like. The part where the cool sparkles came right at the camera is super cool in slow motion. Thank you for your time.
I'm glad to hear you're getting something out of these videos that will help you with your truck! The special effects team is pleased that you enjoyed the sparkles haha
I think your good at what you do. I'm a body man myself and would let you do any of my hot rods . And I'm very picky about my stuff . So please keep up the good work . And for all the haters . Hell with them . Thanks for the videos. Tolleys towing
Thanks Ken! That's very nice of you to say!
Hey Kyle. Thanks for the tips on removing spot welds. I can see where there would be times where one technique is easier to do in a particular spot than another and knowing both will certainly help.
In regards to the new vehicles replacing the old, I had rust appear in a 5-year-old GM sedan that was rust-treated from new. It was where the trunk spoiler met the trunk and was about the size of a thumb-tack when I bought the car. It is also amazing how FAST the newer cars rust once it gets hold compared to the old ones. In two years of sitting outside, that GM ended up with a rust patch where the scale under the paint on that thumb-tack sized bubble had gotten so bad that removing it left a hole about the size of one of those cab-mount washers....and no, we didn't have acid rain and we don't salt our roads. Compare that to my 1977 BL Mini - which never had the best reputation for remaining rust free to begin with.....in fact, I think it was standard fitment from the factory. That has sat outside for two years now and yes, the rust it had has gotten worse, but it's nowhere on the scale of the efforts of the 2004 GM Holden Commodore.
I'm looking forward to pulling the Mini inside in the next couple of months to sort its rust issues and will be using one or both of your demonstrated spot-weld removal techniques on the front panel (it not only has conventional rust, but also a bad repair that has been damaged again by another minor bump and cracked the filler, let water in and it's rusting happily under that too). I did have some trepidation about the fact, but seeing the different stages of spot weld removal and what to look for has relaxed me on that score, so again, many thanks.
All the best!
Thanks Lance! Best of luck on the Mini repairs!
Nice Cat.
Thanks!
That thinning out the top piece with the grinder over the spot welds is how I did my first real car restoration thing, replacing floor pans in an MGB. Worked really well. But I've never seen that seam splitting tool before. That would have been very useful!
The seam splitter is definitely a life saver!
Thanks so much. I learned valuable tips on spot weld removal and so much more.
Glad you found it useful!
Another entertaining show! I really enjoyed the middle part about rust prevention and your eventual descent into madness along with the fact that for most of us viewers, death is lurking around the corner... that was simply inspiring. Cheers?
Thanks Randahl! I'm always happy to pass on an inspiring message of hope to the loyal viewers
Cheers.
Thank you Ron!
Some good tips Kyle, thanks!
In 70 years time I’m going to be 120. As I’m dribbling with my cornflakes, I don’t want to be having a panic attack memory of the rusting out on the floor of this truck. Thanks for clarifying your estimation that your new repair will probably outlast the original job.
A panic attack with cornflakes could be dangerous! Glad I could ease your mind! Haha
No fires???? Is the fire department monitoring you!?!? Nice job.
Love your choices for music listening while you're welding!
Glad you enjoyed it!
i WAS SO GLAD TO SEE YOU WERE USING A LIGHT FOR WELDING - I THOUGHT ONLY
i DID STUFF LIKE THAT.
i CAN'T SEE THE WELD UNLESS i HAVE A GOOD BEAM SHINING ON IT
Haha my welding helmet needs a new lense, plus it's tough to see while welding in cramped areas
Huh. I really like that first method. Thank you!
Glad you found it useful!
I think that one of the important things to consider is that how a vehicle rusts depends on where it lives. Oddly, vehicles in northern areas seem to not have as much rust inside of crossmembers and such as cars that live in more humid climates. Northern cars primarily rot where the road salt hits them. Cars in places like Florida though, seem to rot from the inside out and top down.The cold too is a net preserver of metal on cars that are off the road since snow and ice don't react with the steel like liquid water does, and cold temperatures slow down the chemical reaction of oxidation. That truck would have been a pile of rust and glass on the ground in Florida if it was abandoned in a field that long down here. It may be that your viewers have a different perspective depending on where they live. Also, newer vehicles are made of different steels than older ones. The newer steel has a higher strength to weight ratio than the old mild steel at the expense of being more prone to corrosion. This is why most newer cars (last 30 years or so) are painted on the inside and outside unlike the older ones that used thicker, less corrosion prone steels. And yes... I do like hearing myself type. However, comments are a net positive for any channel as it drives up the engagement metrics, so learn to see them as a positive even if you find them annoying. After all, you don't have to respond to all of them.
Thanks Kyle!
Thanks for watching!
I think you are doing great brother. And I am learning from things you are doing so thank you man.
Thank you!
@@CarterAutoRestyling my pleasure
Great show, thanks for sharing your technique on those spot welds. 👍 cheers from Michigan
Thanks for watching!
Great work as always. Thanks for showing practical ways. I love the 19 minute mark where you are welding in the cab with cans of solvent in the foreground. Beautiful 'mis en scene'
Haha I was wondering if anyone would notice that! Thanks!
Good video looking forward to the next. JFI some of us might already think you're totally insane...
Thanks Kenny! Some of you are probably right! Haha
always a win can't wait until the next one maybe tomorrow ?????
New video coming up shortly!
Thank do much for showing the skills to repair the trucks of this era. Love to rebuild one myself over time for the road. Keep up the great work!!
Thanks! These old trucks can be fun to tinker with!
Inspiring as always, my ford 100e will be back on its wheels soon 👍👍👍
That's great, congratulations!
Sweet..love seeing things being restored.looking forward.
Thanks, I hope you enjoy the series!
Well said Kyle about the new Truck That was amazing it had clean metal on the under side Nice work
Thanks John!
Awesome!!!! 🚚🚚🚚🚚🚚🚚🚚
Thanks!
Wow thank you Scott!
I took your music advice on the time lapse, excellent choice.
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks for the lesson.👍
Thanks for watching!
The first car I tried metalwork on was a 63 Triumph. I bought a Bernzomatic SolidOx kit.
It worked ok on sheet metal but I discovered the smaller Ox pellets I could heat the steel till it puddled then turn the fuel off and I could burn the top layer of metal away from the spot welds.
Slick but pricey.
That does sound slick, but I'm cheap haha
Great stuff. A word of warning on dull drill bits. I was buying the cheap 10-pack from Harbor Freight. They dull quickly. I had planned on swapping to a new bit on the next spot-weld, bit broke, drill jumped and I stabbed my thumb. Ouch. Been 15 years almost and it still tingles from time to time. I buy better bits now. Just be careful!
Sorry to hear about your thumb! I watched a guy drill a hole through his hand with an expensive half inch drill bit, so any drill bit can be dangerous!
Love this channel....great project truck!
Thank you!
i love work !! can watch for hours !! espcially if someone like you or coldwarmotors do what they do , its lovely to see sombody doart i am attempting to replicate on modern shit . ive worked on modern type cars for 30 + years and its getting wors year after year , every time i split open a rust buckett it seams to be less and lesser welding holding them together but more layers of seam sealer that holds the water and slit open the metal after few years. thanx a thousendfold for showing art at its best !
Thank you! I don't envy you for working on modern cars though haha I can't stand working on them!
@@CarterAutoRestyling i dont like it either , but its necessery to help keep the very high priced autos on the road
Hi kyle my sentiments exactly about new cars ive had my 76 f250 for 34yrs an 82 f100 for 20yrs an i will never have a new anything an the truck is coming together nicely . Cheers mate 🇦🇺
Right on Peter! Old pickups are the best!
@@CarterAutoRestyling they are on my channel if you would like it check them out
Thanks
The explanation at 12:00 onwards is mostly correct. However both sides of the floor for sure have gotten wet multiple times. The actual reason for only the top side rusting is the carpet and the stuff ending up laying in between on the moisture never being cleaned. This is the reason cars rust inside out especially when not being used or cleaned, even washed. This is also the reason these closed spaces like rockers are oiled from the inside where the moisture cannot get out leading to this amount of rust just like in those cab corners. Hope this made sense and gave an idea of how the corrosion works.
Much respect for your skills. Thanks for bringing us these videos.
Thank you!
In 70 years I will be 130 if both of us are still here I promise to stay subscribed ❤
I appreciate that haha!
Thanks for the information I have rusted ,lungs too
Thanks for watching! Sorry to hear you suffer from the same ailment as I do!
Hey there. Very true thoughts
Thanks!
The quality of steel used to make these vehicles was much better for sure
manufacturers have been building with lower quality structures , all are not good
and some worse than others , labour and component costs are getting out of reach
Repair what you have and treat the areas of repair for successful save of treasures
Thanks for the great info and tips
Keep 'em coming !
Thanks for watching!
Its looking good Kyle. Great progress 🔧⚒🔩
Thanks Randy!
cool mine is only 42 years old vaper blasted every bit of it only place rusted though was corners of windsheild .Was super glad of this .Yours will be very nice i am sure .It's coming along well done great tips thank you
Thanks for watching!
Love the new specs Kyle 👍
Thanks for the video ..ill b watchin till the end ..love your work mate..from down under.
Thank you!
As always, another great video Kyle. Always keep us riveted. Always enjoy your videos. Keep On Motoring Brother!!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks!
Thanks for the video. Opinions about spot weld removal were interesting. Enjoyed the content like always. Keep on truckin"! : )
Thanks Douglas!
Thank you very much.
Thank you
Thanks!
Wow hair cut new glasses . Lookn good. Yes you make great videos with good content. Thanks
Nahh same hair and glasses. All my money goes into junk vehicles
Coming along nicely! I bought those spot weld drill bits myself, but find myself using a regular drill bit also, sine they are cheaper and move around less.
Thanks, I like cheaper haha
So i won't live until 140, thanks for that.....good work anyway.
👍👍👍good 👏👏👏😃😃
Thanks!
fantastic video once again
Thanks Nick!
I hope you don't mind I played Back biters and syndicators by Mr. Hooker.
Totally agree with you about new vehicles. I have my 1950 Mercury one ton that stays in the shop, and my 85 dodge prospector is my go to everyday truck. I did buy a new car in 2015 because I needed cheap reliable transportation. Nissan Micra, 9999.00 new with a 5 year warranty. I figure I hate new cars so if i'm buying something I hate I may as well buy the cheapest one.
Well seeing as how that's also a good musical selection I'll let it slide this time! I like your thinking on buying the cheapest car for a commuter, if I actually went anywhere I'd probably do the same haha.
Is it true that Canadian GQ (Grafting Quarters) is doing a photo shoot featuring your rust repair work and outfits? You will look great in Rust Lauren’s Winter Collection.
You'll have to wait to find out...
Keep up the great work 👍
Thanks, I'll try!
I love your videos. i have learn so much from them keep up the good work.
Thank you!
Sitting watching this with a glass of red and the underfloor heating warming my feet doesn't diminish my respect for your skills. Two things occur: I understand about keeping the heat from welding down by 'stitching', but you appear to keep stitch on stitch so why not weld continuously - admittedly in some places you do, and I was going to ask if you don't like snow why don't you move somewhere warmer and then realised that in Canada you can't. On the other hand in Wales it's just effing wet all the time.
Try welding continously on sheetmetal and report back on your findings haha.
There are places on the west coast here that stay pretty warm all winter, however you also pay for the privilege to live there, plus they have a lot of stupid rules regarding old cars, so I'll stick to the frozen tundra haha
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You have a lot of major surgery to do there Doc hope the patient lives. I don't weld with my Mig very often but I am thinking you spot weld to keep the metal from warping or am I completely wrong? That was pretty good that you also drilled out the spot welds and the panel came loose. Great tips for beginning sheet metal repair. Thanks for another informative video>
I use a stitch welding technique as continious welding on sheetmetal just causes the edges to burn away. I'm not concerned with warping on the floor or lower door pillar, but if I was I would still use stitch welding and just weld about 1/2" at a time and let the metal cool in between to prevent warping
@@CarterAutoRestyling Thanks for explaining that,
Initially, it looked like a Delta 88. (Buick?) A friend in high school bought a FoDo 88 of that era for $50. It ran great was straight, except for the right front. Same color, but oxidized; it had zero rust.
Oh it's just a Malibu. Has been in several of my videos
I totally agree- use it , fix it , repeat. New stuff is over engineered and often ugly. But rust sucks and that’s a fact
Very true, but if we didn't have rust I'd be out of business haha
Do you use weld thru primer on the inside of your patches.
No. There are better products to use than weld through primer
In this video you demonstrate how to remove spot welds with a grinding wheel on the floor panel, why not do the same on spot welds of the outer side panel spot welds on the A pillar?
Sometimes it's faster to drill them
You had mentioned several times in this episode. "Please excuse my ignorance", Seam Sealer. What is that? Is it something that I can get down at the local auto parts store? I guess I would ask the parts person, "where's the seam sealer"?
It's meant for sealing up joints and welds on panels, kind of like household caulking(but don't use the household stuff on a car) You can buy it at Napa, or any Autobody supply store
@@CarterAutoRestyling thank you so much. I have some seams at the corners of the windshield that once I wire wheel the rust I will need to get some.
can't make my mind up is he main coon or Norwegian forest I'm leaning to the latter but !
Oh she's a small cat so definitely not a Maine Coon. I'm not really sure what she is!
i have to apologize to her for calling HER HE sorry
I applaud the consistency of your suffering.
Haha thanks!
Poe caught a rat! Looking forward to more cutting and welding... much easier than going out to the garage...... Ha!
God bless.
She's a good hunter! Always better to watch someone else struggling haha. Thanks Paul!
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I don't think the Steel back then was better as some think, it's just that the steel used to build these cars and trucks was obviously much thicker-two or three times compared to what's used today, thicker is not rust resistant, it just takes longer to rust away..
These are the last cars made with humans on an assy line. I betcha most of the people on the assy lines oversee the robots.