Good on you Jere. You use the same procedures as other videos for improving and building tools and machines, but you wisely use machines instead of free handing the work. Less labor your way and of course an accurate finished part. Thanks a million for your contributions to the craft. Wally , making stuff in NH at 84 (:o)
great video and well thought out solution.i will now check my english wheel for roundness.many thanks for the invaluable information from a complete newby.
Nice looking wheel Jere and great information on the radias and flats! I am going to attempt to make my own wheels mainly because Habor Freight don’t seem to sell the lower anvils. They provide the number, but just try and locate a set of them. Also is that a small brake on the lower beam? That would be a great use of space!
Hello Frank. I bought the whole Harbor Freight English Wheel. I threw most of it away but what I did use was the wheels, the yoke for the lower anvils (highly modified), and the rack for holding the lower wheels. I figured that the price was about what it would have taken to make the rack. Yes that is the brake that I made for building my sprint car. I had to move it out of the way once and sat it there. A couple of days later I went to move it back and figured I'd just bolt it down right there. Thanks for watching. Jere
I have had my 5 anvils and the top Platen wheel turned and polished, I found afterwards the number two anvil was out of round, turning it against the surface of the Platen wheel. Each of the wheels were turned on a mandrill, I was told it was out of round is because my roller bearings were out of round. ( Bullsh..) I thought. My anvils on the back edge have a 5/32" slot cut into the it's face, I feel my anvils should have been tuned and ground on their own bearings while mounted on an axle in the three jaw or better still set the axle in a four jaw for accuracy and a live center in the tailstock and I could grind the radius using you methods shown. My bearings are in good condition so I didn't see any reason for changing them, the reason for refacing was some of the anvils had been misused leaving indentations on the flats only.
+Chris Boyce you are correct Chris. If you look real close at my mandrel you will notice that there is a large concave flat washer. This allowed me to use the bearings as my center and keep the driving force from the mandrel outside the bearing. I hope this answer's your question. Let me know. Jere
Jere do you know of anybody that has built an English for the purpose of restoring stainless steel trim. Seems like every rocker panel molding has to have a crease worked out and side trim a half a dozen chops across them. I realize every piece is going to need a new lower wheel made. would the wheels have to be hardened because we don't want any stretching?
Hello David: I don't know of anyone that makes one for that specific application. Making a small wheel with a ball bearing for the top wheel should not be that hard. lower wheels would be made to suite. Working stainless would require everything to be hardened and polished. If there is a dint the material has been stretched. Remember, you have to consider, when you repair one area how that will effect the area around it. Don't move stretched material somewhere else in order to make that area look good. That will bite you every time. Thanks for watching and your question. Jere
Hello Silk Hat. I'm sorry but I don't understand the question. All of the anvil wheels were trued to center with the radios of the face trued at the same time. After the anvils were true the flats were ground as a second operation. Get back with me if this does not answer your question. Jere
Jere Kirkpatrick Thanks Jere, I guess I assumed that if the flats on the wheels weren't center, the radius that was ground into the wheels would not be center either.
Old Silk Hat. All machining and grinding was don so as to maintain the highest point on each anvil wheel was maintained at it's center point left to right. Jere
I notice you have a rubber band for the platen wheel for curving for your panels, do you have any problems with ridging appearing in the finished panel?
Hello Lloyd: What I paid for the wheels was less than the material if bought from a supplier. Most of the machining was done except for truing. Thanks for watching. Jere
Jere Kirkpatrick Sorry! just one more question, I was thinking of using lifting weights and welding them together and machine them for the large wheel. Might be to soft? But the math does show by using a harbor freight English wheel just for the rollers makes sense.
@@lloydwright8977 Not knowing what the material is would be a halting point for me. I like knowing what I am working with. Plus the weld filler material would be different than the base material. That alone would make machining yukky. Try not to over think the project, get the material and start making chips. Just remember I know more because my pile of scrap is bigger than yours. Good question. Jere
Hello James: Thanks for the link. There are several companies that afford wheels and anvils for the English Wheel. If you have looked around on my channel you will notice that I like to make my own tools and machines. By doing this I have gained more knowledge in respect to how things work and what material works best for a given application. It also allowed me the necessity to hone my skills on the mill and lathe. I feel that buying something off of someone's shelf it is taking away my opportunity to learn. Thanks for the input. It is appreciated. Jere
Good on you Jere. You use the same procedures as other videos for improving and building tools and machines, but you wisely use machines instead of free handing the work. Less labor your way and of course an accurate finished part.
Thanks a million for your contributions to the craft.
Wally , making stuff in NH at 84 (:o)
Hello Wally:
Thanks for the kind words. Jere
great video and well thought out solution.i will now check my english wheel for roundness.many thanks for the invaluable information from a complete newby.
Thanks Roger. I hope you have subscribed to my channel for upcoming informative videos.
Jere
You’re a very talented man Jere! Thank you for sharing.
Thanks Robert.
Jere
Nice looking wheel Jere and great information on the radias and flats! I am going to attempt to make my own wheels mainly because Habor Freight don’t seem to sell the lower anvils. They provide the number, but just try and locate a set of them. Also is that a small brake on the lower beam? That would be a great use of space!
Hello Frank.
I bought the whole Harbor Freight English Wheel. I threw most of it away but what I did use was the wheels, the yoke for the lower anvils (highly modified), and the rack for holding the lower wheels. I figured that the price was about what it would have taken to make the rack.
Yes that is the brake that I made for building my sprint car. I had to move it out of the way once and sat it there. A couple of days later I went to move it back and figured I'd just bolt it down right there.
Thanks for watching. Jere
I have had my 5 anvils and the top Platen wheel turned and polished, I found afterwards the number two anvil was out of round, turning it against the surface of the Platen wheel. Each of the wheels were turned on a mandrill, I was told it was out of round is because my roller bearings were out of round. ( Bullsh..) I thought.
My anvils on the back edge have a 5/32" slot cut into the it's face, I feel my anvils should have been tuned and ground on their own bearings while mounted on an axle in the three jaw or better still set the axle in a four jaw for accuracy and a live center in the tailstock and I could grind the radius using you methods shown. My bearings are in good condition so I didn't see any reason for changing them, the reason for refacing was some of the anvils had been misused leaving indentations on the flats only.
+Chris Boyce
you are correct Chris. If you look real close at my mandrel you will notice that there is a large concave flat washer. This allowed me to use the bearings as my center and keep the driving force from the mandrel outside the bearing.
I hope this answer's your question. Let me know.
Jere
Jere do you know of anybody that has built an English for the purpose of restoring stainless steel trim. Seems like every rocker panel molding has to have a crease worked out and side trim a half a dozen chops across them. I realize every piece is going to need a new lower wheel made. would the wheels have to be hardened because we don't want any stretching?
Hello David:
I don't know of anyone that makes one for that specific application. Making a small wheel with a ball bearing for the top wheel should not be that hard. lower wheels would be made to suite. Working stainless would require everything to be hardened and polished. If there is a dint the material has been stretched. Remember, you have to consider, when you repair one area how that will effect the area around it. Don't move stretched material somewhere else in order to make that area look good. That will bite you every time.
Thanks for watching and your question. Jere
How did you put a radius in the wheels that weren't center? Thanks
Hello Silk Hat.
I'm sorry but I don't understand the question. All of the anvil wheels were trued to center with the radios of the face trued at the same time. After the anvils were true the flats were ground as a second operation.
Get back with me if this does not answer your question. Jere
Jere Kirkpatrick Thanks Jere, I guess I assumed that if the flats on the wheels weren't center, the radius that was ground into the wheels would not be center either.
Old Silk Hat.
All machining and grinding was don so as to maintain the highest point on each anvil wheel was maintained at it's center point left to right.
Jere
I notice you have a rubber band for the platen wheel for curving for your panels, do you have any problems with ridging appearing in the finished panel?
Nice 👍 I want to purchase this wheels how can contact you
Hi Jaydeep:
I do not sell these wheels. I bought them from HF and made them usable for myself.
Thanks Jere
Might be just as easy to make the wheels from scratch. What do you think? LW
Hello Lloyd:
What I paid for the wheels was less than the material if bought from a supplier. Most of the machining was done except for truing.
Thanks for watching. Jere
Jere Kirkpatrick Sorry! just one more question, I was thinking of using lifting weights and welding them together and machine them for the large wheel. Might be to soft? But the math does show by using a harbor freight English wheel just for the rollers makes sense.
@@lloydwright8977 Not knowing what the material is would be a halting point for me. I like knowing what I am working with. Plus the weld filler material would be different than the base material. That alone would make machining yukky. Try not to over think the project, get the material and start making chips. Just remember I know more because my pile of scrap is bigger than yours.
Good question. Jere
Hi which way I can contact ? I'm interested in English wheel please reply me thankyou
Hello Kanit and thanks for watching.
My E Mail is jere@saber.net.
Jere
Horror Fright anvils not running true.. now there's a surprise.
Hello Da Os.
Some times you buy from there just for the material to start with. Cheaper than blanks of the same size.
Thanks for watching. Jere
Fournier Enterprise.com
Hello James:
Thanks for the link. There are several companies that afford wheels and anvils for the English Wheel. If you have looked around on my channel you will notice that I like to make my own tools and machines. By doing this I have gained more knowledge in respect to how things work and what material works best for a given application. It also allowed me the necessity to hone my skills on the mill and lathe. I feel that buying something off of someone's shelf it is taking away my opportunity to learn.
Thanks for the input. It is appreciated. Jere
I suppose it could be said that that hiring a car in England would get me four 'English wheels' but they'd have very limited use in forming metal...