The part that you mentioned that fell out while shooting is called the firing pin stop plate. In the Army, I saw a couple of incidents involving this part falling out while shooting or it actually cracking upon firing the pistol. The primary cause was found to be the firing pin spring being installed incorrectly by the armorer. Your firing pin spring has a capture end and loose end. Ensure that the firing pin spring is installed onto the firing pin with the capture end of the spring going towards the hammer or the shooter end of the pistol. If the spring stops short of reaching the rear of the firing pin, twist the spring until it reaches the stop on the firing pin. This procedure ensures the required tension against the firing pin plate in it's mounting grooves in the slide on the left and the extractor on the right.
Wow, that is some great info. Are you suggesting the spring is just in backwards? How do I tell the capture end? If I understand the problem correctly, you are suggesting that they put it in backwards when they assembled it in the factory.
@vfxtutswithdan1893 That's correct, that's what I'm saying. I understand that someone at the range also had a look at it. I'm not clear on whether he actually pulled the firing pin out but, you will need to in order that you can confirm the firing pin spring is installed correctly. The capture end of the spring fits tighter around the firing pin as it is installed near the stopping lug near the rear of the firing pin. I purchased the exact same firearm and took it apart completely to check everything out before going to the range. My firing pin spring was installed backwards on the firing pin.
Exactly, a problem in the manufacturing of the weapon, weather by a dumb shiete or injection molding leaving air bubbles in finished parts, and assembled by an incompetent armorer...
I bought one last week (472.×× OTD-out The door, tax, FFL fee). This is to be a companion for my CMP acquired 1943 1911A1 Remington Rand. I have to say the fit and finish on the Tisas is impressive! I'm looking forward to shooting it. 2/15/23 First range day.. first magazine 4 of 7 ringing steel (18×24inch) silhouette target at 40 yards. 150 rds 230 grain ball ZERO failure to feed or fire. It is a genuine pleasure to shoot at any price.
The pin on the end of the wrench is a punch to drift out the back strap pin to change to a flatter strap, like those used on the early 1911 models, which is better for smaller hands.
Thank you, I was wondering too. I think the lanyard loop is even pinned in just like the originals, looks like there is a pin there, unlike how they are pressed in on newer cheaper ones.
Got one myself recently and you can tell those guys over at Tisas really take pride in their machining.. It is by far the tightest 1911 I have laid hands on.
Some people reported the feed ramp was painted. WOW someone listened and fixed that issue on the newer guns. Customer Service? Maybe. I just ordered a TISAS 1911A1. Something for the range and I don't have to worry about getting it scratched.
good review. I got this a few weeks ago, $339 with 2 mags. they had walnut wood grips on it and an extra set of plastic ww2 to 1990s plastic grips in the case. I own a few 1911s. this is my favorite one. And it's accurate ....very accurate.
From 5/2023. I got the Tisas 1911A1 Service Special on the slide in March for $360 from Bud's Gun Shop. The cap or button is the recoil spring plug. I see someone told you what the other end is for and that you found out about it. Wish I had one of these when I got my Springfield Military Model in the mid 1990's. Got those "uh oh" scratches before I figured it out. I got wood grips for mine. Have it on my hip as I write this. I live in a very rural area so it is my daily carry. The metal clips go in the holes on a W W II equipment belt. Someone below talked about the part that fell off. The recoil spring also has an open and closed end. The closed end goes inside.
@@vfxtutswithdan1893 Yep, the push pin is for removing the slide lock lever. It lets you push it far enough that the catch will clear the frame and cause the "uh-oh" scratch found on alot of 1911's that have been taken apart over the years.
I heard that don’t hold your right thumb so high when you grip and you won’t get hammer bite. Lower your right thumb on the left side if your right handed. Love this gun! Mine cycles smoother and is tighter fitting than any other of my $1K to $2K semi auto guns. Damn good gun!!
@@DoesNotConcernYou: Howdy - an extended beavertail usually requires fitting. The problem I experienced with it was that it made reaching / disengaging the thumb safety difficult.
For the holster, neetsfoot oil or Minks oil. Those are traditional leather conditioners and preservatives. Should soften up nicely and it helps protect the leather as well.
Other than Wilson Combat 1911s, which start at $3,000, is there a 1911 actually made in the USA? Colt itself is now CZ and their products are unobtanium. "Springfield Armory" has nothing to do with the Springfield Armory arsenal that functioned for many years as a US GOV operation; the parts come from Brazil, so far as I can tell. "Rock Island Armory" is made by casting in the Philippine Islands, etc. Even if something is "made in USA" how can I know that it wasn't assembled by foreigners? Pro-tip: I can't.
I’m not sure if you have found the answer to your question. Yes you can remove the lanyard loop by purchasing an aftermarket mainspring housing or ordering one through Tisas/ SDS Imports on their respective websites
Hammerbite with the original style 1911A1 is legendary. That's why so many of them get modded to add the beavertail style of grip safety. You may be able to get some advice on your grip to minimize the hammerbite. The best way to fit a leather holster is to dampen it with water or alcohol, then fit the gun down inside it. The leather will form itself around the gun and fit very well. Go easy with oils on holsters. You don't want to oversoften the leather. Saddlesoap is all you really need for that. Good luck with the Promag. They are not known for reliability and frequently end up in the trash or given away.
Before you do anything to that holster, I would consider a brown leather dye, I would be surprised if neatsfoot oil is going to darken it that much. WWII holsters were a medium brown, some quite dark while post-war holsters were black. I just checked my TISAS and the firing pin was also reversed (I only fired a dozen or two rounds through it with no issue), while I was at it, I also checked my 3 other 1911's for firing pin orientation and they were correct, since I've torn them down on many occasions, I thought perhaps I may have re-installed them in reverse.
The holsters came undyed from the factories during the war. A few coats of pure neatsfoot oil and sun exposure will darken the holster up quite a bit, since it hasn't been finished with anything yet.
I just picked mine up today great price great gun would definitely recommend getting one for anyone who wants one I payed just below $350 for it very amazing gun
Use your finger to slightly push the follower down more towards the rear. The follower needs to start straight down with your finger more on the rear of the follower then load first round.
Review on TH-cam old us army training on 1911. Show trainers teaching how to place firing hand on pistol. Prevents hammer bite and shooting one handed does same cause any grip change can cause it. When I was in army I took glove liner, cut out fingers, then no hammer bite at all.
Rock island and tisas are perfectly great 1911 no need to spend a arm and a leg for a 1911 when I bought my rock island 20 years ago it w a 299 brand new been a great pistol im sure the tisas is just the same
"Safety First!". According to the owner's manual, the Tisas 1911A1 in both 45 ACP and 9 mm cannot handle +P ammo. The same warning has been issued for their copy of the Browning Hi-Power in 9 mm. Read the safety manual before firing the gun. Also, no where is this marked on the pistol itself. What if someone buys it used without a manual and has to wait for a new owner's manual from the factory? The NRA periodical "The American Rifleman" has already noted the +P issue in their articles on the Tisas. Thanks!
@@Milkman3572000 I don't know what the problem is that generated the "No +P" warning, but I suppose that Tisas is in the clear liability wise for having stated it in their manual. Perhaps the metal they're starting with, although it's forged, is not up to the pressures of +P. I think that something as important as this ought to be marked on the pistol itself.
@Kelly Anne Bishop I guess you get what you pay for! How many times have we bought something that works 10 times, and the 11th time find out that it's built like a toy.
This is a fantastic gun and a great shooter, but.the magazines are not the greatest. Easily fixed with my Colt, Wilson, Mec-Gar or most any surplus magazines. Hammer bite? I just have a good set of fingerless gloves that I use when shooting hundreds of rounds through my 1911s. Definitely one option if you have that issue.
I also have the same one. I've tested it with HP's and noticed it might feed good for two or three rounds more or less sometimes you get really lucky and it will feed all seven. So i would say it's not reliable with HP's. But I've never had a problem with fmj.
TISAS makes the best 1911 on the market. Yeah you can go out and spend 2-5 grand on a Wilson combat or something but why? My TISAS A1 with Wilson combat mags runs better than most 1000$+ 1911
Dude you do realize how many people ALWAYS carry with a round in the chamber every day with the safetyi off or no safety at all ncluding law enforcement ?
@@patrickcarey5907 Not with a 1911 they dont. Striker fired pistols and DA/SA pistols are a different battery of arms. Any cop carrying a 1911 will be in condition 1.
I understand what you're saying. My initial point was just that simply holstering a 1911 with the safety in the off position does not mean you're going to shoot yourself in the foot. Again, unless you have poor trigger discipline.
@@vfxtutswithdan1893 Sure that's how we carry being prepared for immediate action. The 1911 was carried in the military as a secondary weapon. Even Marines at embassies carried them chamber empty. The thought was there would be time to recognize the threat to unholster and chamber a round. These were flap holsters, not intended for immediate action.
Cocked and locked or no round in the chamber. Those are the firm and fast safety rules of the M1911A1. No exceptions. Carrying one of these holstered, chambered, and unlocked is courting disaster. These's nothing like a .45 slug through the femoral artery to ruin your day.
Another reviewer said hammer bite is worse shooting with two hands rather than one. My first 1911 was a Series 70 (similar to the military M1911A1) with the small beavertail grip, and did bite a lot.
I promise, it was empty and I was just checking the fit with this holster. It didn't happen again. If you notice later in the video, when I actually have it holstered, I have to switch the safety off before I can fire it.
The name TISAS says stay away, im a clone. A clone made in Mexico. Thats what I see and hear when TISAS is muttered or read. 🤮 its just a polished Hi-Point
The part that you mentioned that fell out while shooting is called the firing pin stop plate. In the Army, I saw a couple of incidents involving this part falling out while shooting or it actually cracking upon firing the pistol. The primary cause was found to be the firing pin spring being installed incorrectly by the armorer. Your firing pin spring has a capture end and loose end. Ensure that the firing pin spring is installed onto the firing pin with the capture end of the spring going towards the hammer or the shooter end of the pistol. If the spring stops short of reaching the rear of the firing pin, twist the spring until it reaches the stop on the firing pin. This procedure ensures the required tension against the firing pin plate in it's mounting grooves in the slide on the left and the extractor on the right.
Wow, that is some great info. Are you suggesting the spring is just in backwards? How do I tell the capture end? If I understand the problem correctly, you are suggesting that they put it in backwards when they assembled it in the factory.
@vfxtutswithdan1893
That's correct, that's what I'm saying. I understand that someone at the range also had a look at it. I'm not clear on whether he actually pulled the firing pin out but, you will need to in order that you can confirm the firing pin spring is installed correctly. The capture end of the spring fits tighter around the firing pin as it is installed near the stopping lug near the rear of the firing pin.
I purchased the exact same firearm and took it apart completely to check everything out before going to the range. My firing pin spring was installed backwards on the firing pin.
Exactly, a problem in the manufacturing of the weapon, weather by a dumb shiete or injection molding leaving air bubbles in finished parts, and assembled by an incompetent armorer...
I bought one last week (472.×× OTD-out The door, tax, FFL fee). This is to be a companion for my CMP acquired 1943 1911A1 Remington Rand. I have to say the fit and finish on the Tisas is impressive! I'm looking forward to shooting it.
2/15/23 First range day.. first magazine 4 of 7 ringing steel (18×24inch) silhouette target at 40 yards. 150 rds 230 grain ball ZERO failure to feed or fire. It is a genuine pleasure to shoot at any price.
The pin on the end of the wrench is a punch to drift out the back strap pin to change to a flatter strap, like those used on the
early 1911 models, which is better for smaller hands.
Thank you, I was wondering too. I think the lanyard loop is even pinned in just like the originals, looks like there is a pin there, unlike how they are pressed in on newer cheaper ones.
Got one myself recently and you can tell those guys over at Tisas really take pride in their machining.. It is by far the tightest 1911 I have laid hands on.
Some people reported the feed ramp was painted. WOW someone listened and fixed that issue on the newer guns. Customer Service? Maybe. I just ordered a TISAS 1911A1. Something for the range and I don't have to worry about getting it scratched.
good review.
I got this a few weeks ago, $339 with 2 mags.
they had walnut wood grips on it and an extra set of plastic ww2 to 1990s plastic grips in the case.
I own a few 1911s. this is my favorite one. And it's accurate ....very accurate.
From 5/2023. I got the Tisas 1911A1 Service Special on the slide in March for $360 from Bud's Gun Shop. The cap or button is the recoil spring plug. I see someone told you what the other end is for and that you found out about it. Wish I had one of these when I got my Springfield Military Model in the mid 1990's. Got those "uh oh" scratches before I figured it out. I got wood grips for mine. Have it on my hip as I write this. I live in a very rural area so it is my daily carry.
The metal clips go in the holes on a W W II equipment belt.
Someone below talked about the part that fell off. The recoil spring also has an open and closed end. The closed end goes inside.
One side of the tool is for the barrel bushing and the other is used to push out the slide stop when field stripping the firearm.
Thanks, but I did finally figure that one out.
@@vfxtutswithdan1893 Yep, the push pin is for removing the slide lock lever. It lets you push it far enough that the catch will clear the frame and cause the "uh-oh" scratch found on alot of 1911's that have been taken apart over the years.
The little tip on the bushing wrench is to push out the slide lock pin from the right hand side...
I heard that don’t hold your right thumb so high when you grip and you won’t get hammer bite. Lower your right thumb on the left side if your right handed. Love this gun! Mine cycles smoother and is tighter fitting than any other of my $1K to $2K semi auto guns. Damn good gun!!
Cool. I'll try that.
Get a extended Beaver tail an that will be a thing of the past. I have the b45r version an it comes with one an I’ve never had a case of it with mine.
@@DoesNotConcernYou: Howdy - an extended beavertail usually requires fitting. The problem I experienced with it was that it made reaching / disengaging the thumb safety difficult.
Love mine. I had feeding problems at first but after 200 rounds it’s no longer a problem. Runs great.
How’s that hammer bite ? lol glad I got the one with the extended beaver tail.
I absolutely love mine ! Carry it with me every day every where I go.
For the holster, neetsfoot oil or Minks oil. Those are traditional leather conditioners and preservatives. Should soften up nicely and it helps protect the leather as well.
That thing on the other end of your tool is a punch for your take down lever for your 1911
Other than Wilson Combat 1911s, which start at $3,000, is there a 1911 actually made in the USA? Colt itself is now CZ and their products are unobtanium. "Springfield Armory" has nothing to do with the Springfield Armory arsenal that functioned for many years as a US GOV operation; the parts come from Brazil, so far as I can tell. "Rock Island Armory" is made by casting in the Philippine Islands, etc. Even if something is "made in USA" how can I know that it wasn't assembled by foreigners? Pro-tip: I can't.
You need to research how many American parts are on American cars.
Check how many American made parts are in an American car. It's a losing battle.
Les Baer, Nighthawk, Kimber, Dan Wesson, S&W, Ruger, Sig, Savage, STI,
Tearrin Tactical aka John wick gun
Savage now makes a 1911.
I picked up the same gun 4 days ago, it came with 2 eight round mags.
Then you have the Service Special like I do. I have a third MekGar 8 round mag on the way.
Is there a way to remove the lanyard loop?
I’m not sure if you have found the answer to your question. Yes you can remove the lanyard loop by purchasing an aftermarket mainspring housing or ordering one through Tisas/ SDS Imports on their respective websites
My RZ Tactical 12 gauge is made in Turkey. They're actually surprisingly good guns. I like my shotgun
Hammerbite with the original style 1911A1 is legendary. That's why so many of them get modded to add the beavertail style of grip safety. You may be able to get some advice on your grip to minimize the hammerbite. The best way to fit a leather holster is to dampen it with water or alcohol, then fit the gun down inside it. The leather will form itself around the gun and fit very well. Go easy with oils on holsters. You don't want to oversoften the leather. Saddlesoap is all you really need for that.
Good luck with the Promag. They are not known for reliability and frequently end up in the trash or given away.
Before you do anything to that holster, I would consider a brown leather dye, I would be surprised if neatsfoot oil is going to darken it that much. WWII holsters were a medium brown, some quite dark while post-war holsters were black. I just checked my TISAS and the firing pin was also reversed (I only fired a dozen or two rounds through it with no issue), while I was at it, I also checked my 3 other 1911's for firing pin orientation and they were correct, since I've torn them down on many occasions, I thought perhaps I may have re-installed them in reverse.
That is interesting about the firing pin. It would be strange if that's the case with mine as well.
The holsters came undyed from the factories during the war. A few coats of pure neatsfoot oil and sun exposure will darken the holster up quite a bit, since it hasn't been finished with anything yet.
Just got some Wilson Combat 47DCB mags for my Tisas 1911A1 Army.
It’s more of a Beaver Bite as the beaver tail rotates back during recoil an digs into the web of your hand.
I just picked mine up today great price great gun would definitely recommend getting one for anyone who wants one I payed just below $350 for it very amazing gun
Use your finger to slightly push the follower down more towards the rear. The follower needs to start straight down with your finger more on the rear of the follower then load first round.
Yes, that's what I've been doing.
Review on TH-cam old us army training on 1911. Show trainers teaching how to place firing hand on pistol. Prevents hammer bite and shooting one handed does same cause any grip change can cause it. When I was in army I took glove liner, cut out fingers, then no hammer bite at all.
Great video. Hold thd grip a smidge lower, and you won't get hammer bite. Also, if you shoot one-handed, you won't get hammer bite.
The other end of the takedown tool i to aid in the slide stop removal the little button on the other side of the slide stop
Rock island and tisas are perfectly great 1911 no need to spend a arm and a leg for a 1911 when I bought my rock island 20 years ago it w a 299 brand new been a great pistol im sure the tisas is just the same
Thanks for the review.
I'm glad you liked it.
"Safety First!". According to the owner's manual, the Tisas 1911A1 in both 45 ACP and 9 mm cannot handle +P ammo. The same warning has been issued for their copy of the Browning Hi-Power in 9 mm. Read the safety manual before firing the gun. Also, no where is this marked on the pistol itself. What if someone buys it used without a manual and has to wait for a new owner's manual from the factory? The NRA periodical "The American Rifleman" has already noted the +P issue in their articles on the Tisas. Thanks!
THANKS for that warning.
@@Milkman3572000 I don't know what the problem is that generated the "No +P" warning, but I suppose that Tisas is in the clear liability wise for having stated it in their manual. Perhaps the metal they're starting with, although it's forged, is not up to the pressures of +P. I think that something as important as this ought to be marked on the pistol itself.
The guns are trash right out of the box, firing +p ammo out of it is a certain disaster just waiting to happen!!!
@@blankeny Angry at Gun in general? Red hair? I see a pattern.
@Kelly Anne Bishop I guess you get what you pay for! How many times have we bought something that works 10 times, and the 11th time find out that it's built like a toy.
Great review and great handgun. Also has anyone ever told you that you sound just like George Lucas 😂
Great video brother, you think a 12 pound recoil spring is to lite for my ria 1911 45acp.tank you .
Thanks.
I assume it's for pushing out the slide stop
oil that holster, it will help it out a bunch and change the color.
The tool tip is to remove the fire pin back plate idk if anyone else has said it
that tool for removing pin to take upper and lower apart.
I used it to help load my magazines.....😃
Great pistols.
Replace your firing pin spring with an aftermarket from Brownells.
This is a fantastic gun and a great shooter, but.the magazines are not the greatest. Easily fixed with my Colt, Wilson, Mec-Gar or most any surplus magazines. Hammer bite? I just have a good set of fingerless gloves that I use when shooting hundreds of rounds through my 1911s. Definitely one option if you have that issue.
Used to push the countersunk slide stop.
Lip on the mag is the take down tool.
Does it need a takedown tool?
@@vfxtutswithdan1893 it was designed to be taken apart with the lip on the mag in the field.
Since this is a reproduction of an original 1911A1, can anyone tell me if this gun has any issues shooting HP ammo?....or does it like FMJ only.
I've had mine for about 4yrs now. It does not like HP ammo or flat head. I run ball ammo only.
Thanks for your helpful input.
I also have the same one. I've tested it with HP's and noticed it might feed good for two or three rounds more or less sometimes you get really lucky and it will feed all seven. So i would say it's not reliable with HP's. But I've never had a problem with fmj.
@@damonmclain4752 Thanks! Glad to know it does not like HP ammo.
@@JohnDoe-in9lc Thanks! I will pass up on buying one. My stockpile of ammo are majority HP.
I wonder if back in the day gunsmiths would make those by welding 2 magazines together. * the extended
Back in the day, was anyone making magazines like this? I guess doing 'jungle style' by taping them together side-by-side goes back to WWII.
Any slide bite when shooting?
Might happen a few times, but you gonna learn
Absolutely. Did you watch to the end?
@@vfxtutswithdan1893 just now seen where it was hitting you
TISAS makes the best 1911 on the market. Yeah you can go out and spend 2-5 grand on a Wilson combat or something but why? My TISAS A1 with Wilson combat mags runs better than most 1000$+ 1911
The other end of that tool is used to help push out the take-down pin
Bingo
I was to say I'm almost positive that little book that's call a manual would tell you.
Holstered the pistol with the safety off and round in the chamber?! Lucky you didn't shoot your foot off.🤦♂
Dude you do realize how many people ALWAYS carry with a round in the chamber every day with the safetyi off or no safety at all ncluding law enforcement ?
@@patrickcarey5907 Not with a 1911 they dont. Striker fired pistols and DA/SA pistols are a different battery of arms. Any cop carrying a 1911 will be in condition 1.
@@2Aknight762 So your opinion is that anyone who carries a 1911 most likely has an improper holster and no trigger discipline ?
@@patrickcarey5907 Ask any cop that carries a 1911 what condition the pistol is in. WW2 flap holsters, soldiers typically carried condition 3.
I understand what you're saying. My initial point was just that simply holstering a 1911 with the safety in the off position does not mean you're going to shoot yourself in the foot.
Again, unless you have poor trigger discipline.
I just bought mine 2 weeks ago, put 200rds through it. Haven't had a single issue.
Remember with a military holster this pistol was meant to be carried chamber empty and hammer down.
What about cocked, locked, and loaded?
@@vfxtutswithdan1893 Sure that's how we carry being prepared for immediate action. The 1911 was carried in the military as a secondary weapon. Even Marines at embassies carried them chamber empty. The thought was there would be time to recognize the threat to unholster and chamber a round. These were flap holsters, not intended for immediate action.
@@garypudup2109 Makes sense.
Magazine follower hang up? Not unusual for GI Spec magazines.
Got mine less than 400 lol ST Patrick’s day sale
Before they put it in a crummy cardboard box with only one magazine.
So I guess it's better now.
YUP!
One-handed videos always get a thumb's down because they suck.
Sorry to disappoint you.
@@vfxtutswithdan1893 It happens. I'm sure you'll improve as time goes on.
@Bo I like the sound I'm hearing.
Little kids should be banned from TH-cam
Cocked and locked or no round in the chamber. Those are the firm and fast safety rules of the M1911A1. No exceptions. Carrying one of these holstered, chambered, and unlocked is courting disaster. These's nothing like a .45 slug through the femoral artery to ruin your day.
Tisas 1911 45 than clock gun fact
Hmm.. mine came in a cardboard box.
RK guns 296.00 black Friday
Please tell me you did not put a cocked and UNlocked weapon in your holster. OOOhhhhh loooord.
Tuh-SASH
Or wear gloves
Hello George Lucas
I’m ah ah um um ah um ah um…..
Work on that um it ah is um really ah um annoying…
Good review though
I'll see what I can do.
Don't shoot thumbs up with a 1911.
Yep, hammer bite!
Another reviewer said hammer bite is worse shooting with two hands rather than one. My first 1911 was a Series 70 (similar to the military M1911A1) with the small beavertail grip, and did bite a lot.
@@loboheeler proper two hand 1911 shooting starts at 4:45. No hammer bite.
th-cam.com/video/jP7J-JNSUu4/w-d-xo.html&feature=share
It's been getting better for me; now it barely happens. I do try shooting one-handed a bit more with it.
Everything pro mag makes is garbage
So you holstered a 1911 with the safety off? My oh my, good God Almighty. Maybe you had better sell your guns and just stick to artistic drawings.🙄
I promise, it was empty and I was just checking the fit with this holster. It didn't happen again. If you notice later in the video, when I actually have it holstered, I have to switch the safety off before I can fire it.
Great video, trim your nails or paint them lol
Yeah cuz that's important
The name TISAS says stay away, im a clone. A clone made in Mexico. Thats what I see and hear when TISAS is muttered or read. 🤮 its just a polished Hi-Point
Not in Turkey?
@@vfxtutswithdan1893 this guy is a turkey😂
@@TheREALLibertyOrDeath🤣🤣
Mexico ? What ?