I just pucked up a Toyota Paseo that smokes like no two-stroke has ever known. The wisdom of the internet says valve stem seals are a common issue on these, so I figured that would probably be a head-off procedure. I found a walk-through with text and pixtures of how to do it this way, but it seemed kind of complicated. Now I stumble across these dudes laying it down like it's an air filter job. Fantastic! I feel like I could do this in the parts store parking lot before they even have time to come out and tell me to stop.
I just replaced my valve seals on my B18c gsr using this method n I just want to say THANK YOU for posting this video cuz it motivated me to do the job. I've been putting it off for the past year cuz I don't have the time to take the head off n use the OLD method lol. The sad part is that it didn't fix my smoke problem but hey at least I know the valve seals r good. The whole job only took about 3.5 hours from start to finish n that's including stopping numerous times to tend to my 2 kids lol. Anyway I just wanted to thank u n I'm gonna recommend this method to everyone I know that turns their own wrenches!! *****
hey did u ever find out what was causing the smoking issue? I have the same problem replaced the valve seals, pcv valve and nothing fixed it... also did a compression test both wet and dry and compression was good.. dont know what else it could be
This guy is hardcore... he's working on the engine while wearing a white polo! I never use my good clothes for working on my car cause I know at some point I'll get a stain but this dude is a pro. Excellent video! Very informative and helpful.
can you please refer me to another video about this rope technique. The video skips the step by step process on this. Another video shows it going in but it doesn't explain what to look for and how to tell if it's right.
Lol, let me put it like this, I have yet to sow my royal oats with Japanese engines, aside from the usual 2nd and 3rd base foreplay. Crudely put, I haven't a clue 'which hole to put my rope in' if you will. Nonetheless, very informative video. I definitely am going to view it again. It definitely took out a lot of the spook and fear of going in raw on engines. The way that some mechanically inclined auto technicians have mythologized and deterred regular folks from trying out more elaborate engine repair would get anyone without the proper training or technical knowledge rightfully apprehensive.
Let's pretend you are on cylinder 1, you will remove all spark plugs, you will manually rotate the engine until cylinder 1 is Bottom Dead Center. Make sure the piston in cylinder 1 is all the way down. To determine this, stick a small stick about 2 feet long down the spark plug hole of cylinder 1. once the stick stops going down, you're good. Then you will grab the rope and start to fill the cylinder hole of #1 with about 6 feet of rope. Don't worry about coiling it in nice and neat, just shove that rope in there 6 feet. once you've done that, manually rotate the piston of cylinder 1 back up. You will rotate it by hand, until it stops. This causes the rope to compress and ball up, putting enough tension on the bottom of the valves, so you can remove the springs and retainers without the valves falling down in the engine. Once you've replaced that valve seal, and put the spring and retainer back, manually lower that same #1 cylinder, and remove the rope. Continue to the rest of the cylinders. Don't worry about the small fragments the rope may leave, the engine will burn that off in milliseconds. It will NOT cause any damage. This Honda engine, is still leak free and running STRONG. 400+ WBHP.
Nice work guys! I like how you keep each other in check with explanation and include the printed info to help maintain clarity and to facilitate finding the items! Very cool!
Thanks Guys! I never even thought of using a piece of rope. I've always had to take the heads to my work bench, took HOURS! This will save a lot of time and I can have a cold beer a lot faster! And you're right 'this ain't no Rolex show'!
Genius! I love that tool because it makes removing the keepers so easy, but I didn't like how you needed to remove the cylinder head to use it. With this trick it's now the ultimate valve spring remover cylinder head off or on the block. Thanks!!!
This is a great video, really carefully explained and complete with part numbers for the tools etc. Fantastic work guys! I used an adapted version of this technique to change the stem seals on a GM/Opel/Vauxhall Z14XEP (horrible little 90hp engine compared to the GSR LS Vtec). A couple things I found: The GA317 was too large a diameter to fit through the hole in the head to get to the valves, so we had to turn it down a few mm using a grinding stone. The GM engine uses three ring keepers, that is it has three grooves machined into the valve stem for the keeper to sit in. We couldn't make the GA317 work for three ring keepers, so beware! We had to cut a hole in a piece of pipe, and while one person compressed the spring, the other installed the keepers using grease to stick it to a small screwdriver.
This job is done 100% manually. You will use a wrench and socket to lower the piston to the bottom. After you insert about 6 feet of nylon rope into the cylinder, you than bring the piston up manually, until it stops. DO NOT try to crank it. Once it stops, simply bump it a little "MANAULLY" and proceed to replace the valve seals. The oil has not been drained from the engine. The cylinder head has just been slightly wiped down to see better.
***** all i have to say is wow this is trash Just messing around This saves alot of people money i look forward to seeing your other videos i gotta do a headgasket on my car so this doesnt really apply to me but in the future on my other car that needs these seals just wow this is amazing i cant thank you enough how much time and money you are saving everyone thank you !
Great info, and just adding a tip for those without tool on hand I made one using a 1/2" drive deep socket and dremeled a big hole, slid magetic wand through it, install I used tweezers, I put another socket on top for room to hammer and worked out great!
Great vid guys. My b16a just started smoking and I was pissed! Compression good and the thing still rips so seals are about to get done. Just ordered this tool on Amazon warehouse deals for $18.00.
Awesome video, my Honda Accord is smoking a bit and sucking oil up like gasoline. My mechanic told me to change the oil grade due to high mileage (I have 150k) and that didn't work. My mechanic changed the oil pressure switch, which was leaking and that didn't help. My mechanic changed the PCV valve and that somewhat helped, but it still persist. I brought a whole cylinder head seal kit from Honda and my mechanic tells me that he has to remove the whole cylinder head to do this job. I like that he is doing one thing at a time, step by step in case one of these things is the problem and then it gets fixed, but it's costing me. I heard you say towards the end of the video that 9 out of 10 times, if the car is smoking it could be the seals. I hope that this is it and my car gets fixed, because my mechanic scared me with some bullshit story about... " if the seal job doesn't fix it, we might have to do the rings", and he gave me that look from the corner of his eye and rubbed the two fingers together (money sign) and said in a deep voice. "That's costly.
@@kennethbeard881 it needed rings. They were due to be changed. My mechanic told me that this particular problem happens to this Hondas. My mechanic made me buy a new engine. He said that a seal job and rings is going to cost as much as just getting a new engine. Plus he said that if whoever does that kind of job needs to be very well experienced, meaning eating, sleeping and a career person of many years of experience so that there are no problems. So I just went and got another engine especially with my mechanic's discount and put it in. Everything has been working great after that. He did tell me that these type of engines require high levels of oilat all times.
@@KingLess2000 what engine did you go back with ? My prelude has a h22a4 with the b series trans. It's quite smokey on acceleration but I figured I'd try seals first and if it needs rings I'd try boring it to an 88mm
Before you start this process it's a good idea to shove small pieces of cloth or paper towel into all of the oil return holes to preclude dropping anything (like one of the keepers) down one of the holes and into the crankcase. I learned this the hard way when I had a distributor taken out and I accidentally dropped a bolt down the hole. I ended up having to remove the oil pan to get it out.
Negative, if you use this tool, you wont have a problem with falling keepers. The magnate is very strong and the keepers have to be physically removed with needle nose pliers or tweezers. You need to use cloth and towels if you use the hammer/socket method.
@ Kleo 84 - You should re-read my comment again all the way to the end. Anytime you do anything like this you should always block any holes just in case you drop something. There is an old saying that goes, "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." Don't learn a hard lesson someday the same way I did.
Joe Vignolo Agree. I plug all oil galleries and spark plug tubes with blue disposable shop towels, regardless of the tools I'm using to replace the seals.
Someone mentioned that melting the old stem seals with a propane torch made them much easier to remove, he was ABSOLUTELY correct. Heated mine up until the springs started to warp, pulled them out, added a bit more heat and pulled and they slid right off. Side note to anyone doing this, take some plastic wrap from your kitchen and ball it up around the springs and more specifically the oil passages. That way as you remove the keepers they don't accidentally drop into the engine or get lost in the head.
Well... I'll be damn...! I knew something could be done without losing too much money. I'm not going to do my head gasket again, especially when I just put it in. Thanks guys saved me $80 on my head gasket.
Ron Sinson cool video but couldn't you put some tape around the valve stem before removing the spring to keep the valve from falling? you would have the clean the valve stem first with acetone so the tape would stick. then push the the new valve guide on the stem of the valve and take off the tape and push the new guide down the stem and put the tape on the stem above the guide and push the valve guide into place. this will keep you from having to take out the spark plugs. or you could use a big magnet to hold the valve. a magnet to big to fall into any holes.
Dude That was awesome. A lot better then them blood suckers at a shop. They wanted to hit me at the tune of 1800.00 bucks to do what you did. Thanks for the vid...
35 people are mechanics. lol I've been a mechanic for 20 years. I change valve seals all the time with the head on. Your right about them wanting your money. Whats cool is you took the time to research the procedure and the tool. 👍
Huh, that's nonsense its much easier to spend hours..and hours ..and hours..(and sometimes DAYS) getting a head off, whilst swearing and getting real mad violent, then doing it on the bench...and doing the reverse!! But seriously, thanks you, I'd buy you guys a drink if I could, I never knew this was possible and I must bow to your greatness. Thanks loads!!
Im actually interested in that trans trick you spoke about. Usually if im removing anything its a d series for a b series so never really thought of just removing the motor itself ha. Very informative video I was trying to find that tool(thanks for part number) and ran across this never had to buy one since i usually get everything done at the machine shop when I need to change headgasket.
Great vid guys! Need to do this on my Toyota engine and every video I've seen says take the head off. Been looking for a way to do this without taking the head off. Thanks!
I read some reviews about this tool on amazon where it didn't fit the kepper on their car. I'm trying to do this on a CRV, so I'm assuming my K24 engine will have similar specs to the engine you were working with. Thanks for the video cause no one else is using this option.
Before I learned this method years ago we use to use compressed air in the cylinder. It works but if you accidentally push the valve down you lose all your pressure. The rope is by far the best failsafe way to do it.
THANK YOU LORD JESUS! You know how many mechanics i know from family and friends & every single one of them said it's a hard job because of the damm head! -_- I'm a female too, which made things even worse & extra expensive! So i decided to do my own research! & Thanks to you guys, i know now that it can be done in less than in an hour on my 95 Legend! :D
they just wanted your $, or something, or arent real mechanics. these dudes blew everybody away, thanks to them, im replacing all the seals myself and saving hundreds $. they are it!!
Another way of keeping the valve closed is to put what ever cylinder your working on at the top of its stroke , secure the crankshaft from turning in either direction buy using a socket and pull handel on the crank pulley bolt , and secure the pull handle with tie down straps or anything you can tie it off with and to . Remove that cylinder spark plug and use a compression gauge tester with the valve core removed from the end that screws into the spark plug threads. Hook that hose up to your shop air compressor hose and add 80 PSI to that cylinder . 80 PSI will hold the valve closed if the valves aren't bent . Just be sure to keep the air pressure constant at all times , or the valve will fall down ....
nice one. Have to do this to my mk4 golf sdi. Good job it is only an sohc. Like the rope job instead of compressed air. Eric the car guy would approve as it is one of his methods as well.
Nice job, but we do not understand the rope part.Do you just shovel it in and let it coil inside of the cylinder then turn the motor so the when the piston comes up it pushes the rope against the valve keeping it from falling in ?
The rope acts as an even base for the valve to rest on too - if you were to just wind the piston up to the valve to lock it and do this you'd probably bend the valve as only one lip of it will contact the piston.
Hi guys, great video - got the tool. In regards to "timing" back up the engine. You have taken out the cams, having timed the engine up to TDC on cylinder 1 to begin. Slipped off the belt.. cylinder one is ready to work on. Do I just manually crank over once finished on C1 to C2 TDC? (The belt is obvs still in tension sorta will it all just turn ok too..?) etc etc ✌🏻
U can also use 80-90psi of compressed air to hold the valves up (use a compression tester hose)...it's faster cause you don't have to sit there shoving rope into the cylinder (make sure you have at least a 30 gallon compressor)...only disadvantage is that you can't hear your music over the compressor noise...
+Kleo 84 first off - that's a beautiful engine and nice car too! with that much bhp, i bet the exhaust sound must give you goosebumps man ;) I'm fixing the wife's 1996 opel astra f cc (a GM 'spin-off) at the moment. everything was running okay, until i realized that the valve seals needed doing, ffs... this posting pointed me in the right direction though ref. the tool needed. the head's off due to the head gasket throwing it's teddy bear into multiple corners.... the car's only a 1.4i with 60bhp (don't laugh mate....i can 'sense' you laughing, lol )...it does the job mind, even though it 'lacks' the bollocks to take on a grandma going uphill in a wheelchair. aye! thanks for posting this mate....best wishes to you from the other side of 'the pond' (aka Europe) subscribed, btw ;)
I see that you guys left the timing belt in place instead of removing the whole thing. Did you just skip the belt off the gears or did you loosen the tensioner to get it off? I don’t wanna remove the entire belt, and didn’t know if you could just slip the belt off without removing the tensioner. Thanks
I just have a question let me get this straight you basically stuffed as much rope as you could inside the block simply to keep them from falling in right??
To dissassembly with the tool works very good but how can you get it work when you assemby the keepers back. Impossible on a SAAB 93 or 95. Some hint please!
how would you suggest doing this method on an engine with cups on top of the valves? I'm wanting to do mine on a 2L-te diesel from a Toyota surf. just hate taking the head off.
Thanks for the video, do you know if this rope technique can be used on any engine? Also is it enough just to raise the cylinder with the rope and that's it or it needs to be fixed in place by a pin?
Kleo84 Hey I have a question, I have a 1999 Honda Accord EX V6 and I bought the valve stem seals for it. Once I replace them, should I still continue using Full Synthetic High Mileage oil? or Just Full Synthetic?
***** I was told by a lot of mechanics the rope is not really necessary because once you crank the camshaft it brings the piston up to hold the valve. Explain to me like, once I insert the rope in the cylinder hole, what do I do next?
***** You're one of my sources to doing this project myself because everyone does it differently or want $ for such easy replacement. After changing the valve seals, what do I do next? do set the valves right or something? or can I just put it back together and it'll adjust itself? do I have to adjust anything else before putting the head back together?
Kleo 84 Very nice video. How can I tell if it is the piston rings or valve seals need getting done? Car consumes a lot of oil but no smoke. I think cat is blocking smoke. Last time performed compression test and it seemed ok but will perform again to be sure.
This helps alot! I was thinking I was going to have remove the head. How far do I need to stuff the rope? doesn't it need to coil in a circle underneath the valves in order to keep the valves from falling, correct? I am replacing the head gasket, piston rings, and valve stem seals since my mistu eclipse gst smokes. the guy i bought it from did not maintain it and did some pretty dumb stuff too. Just bought my valve keeper for $44 :-)
Olwyn Oduinn just put about 6feet in the cylinder, doesn't really matter if it coils or not, Because when you bring the piston up, it will compress it into a nice tight bunch and prevent the valves from falling.
![ILLSLICK X YOUNGOHM - We're The same [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yUJNkobYR0E/mqdefault.jpg)
I just pucked up a Toyota Paseo that smokes like no two-stroke has ever known. The wisdom of the internet says valve stem seals are a common issue on these, so I figured that would probably be a head-off procedure. I found a walk-through with text and pixtures of how to do it this way, but it seemed kind of complicated. Now I stumble across these dudes laying it down like it's an air filter job. Fantastic! I feel like I could do this in the parts store parking lot before they even have time to come out and tell me to stop.
*picked up, not pucked up. Lol.
5 1/2 years later you just helped me put new valve seals on a '77 Yamaha twin. Thanks for spreading the joy, and I hope you get your million miles!
I just replaced my valve seals on my B18c gsr using this method n I just want to say THANK YOU for posting this video cuz it motivated me to do the job. I've been putting it off for the past year cuz I don't have the time to take the head off n use the OLD method lol. The sad part is that it didn't fix my smoke problem but hey at least I know the valve seals r good. The whole job only took about 3.5 hours from start to finish n that's including stopping numerous times to tend to my 2 kids lol. Anyway I just wanted to thank u n I'm gonna recommend this method to everyone I know that turns their own wrenches!! *****
I'm glad it helped you. Good luck on finding the problem.
hey did u ever find out what was causing the smoking issue? I have the same problem replaced the valve seals, pcv valve and nothing fixed it... also did a compression test both wet and dry and compression was good.. dont know what else it could be
jredf1 seems like a head gasket leak
3 years later and this helped me out so much . They wanted 400 to do the seals on my b16 . Thanks to you I only spent 70 on every thing.
Send me ur number pls
This guy is hardcore... he's working on the engine while wearing a white polo! I never use my good clothes for working on my car cause I know at some point I'll get a stain but this dude is a pro. Excellent video! Very informative and helpful.
That's my bro Pnut. He says a real mechanic can get a job done without getting dirty. He's pretty good at it too LOL
8 years later and I want to thank you for this video! I just purchased the tool and I’ll be doing this job within the next week l!!
PLEASE refer to 0:40 into the movie to understand how the rope works. Thank you. We've explained EVERYTHING you need to know on how to do this job.
+Kleo 84 great vid! valves have to be up tight with rope, they can't move at all. gotta turn engine to be TIGHT Autozone! LOL
can you please refer me to another video about this rope technique. The video skips the step by step process on this. Another video shows it going in but it doesn't explain what to look for and how to tell if it's right.
DonnieDarko1 This video explains the rope technique perfectly. If you actually pay attention, you'll understand how it works.
Lol, let me put it like this, I have yet to sow my royal oats with Japanese engines, aside from the usual 2nd and 3rd base foreplay. Crudely put, I haven't a clue 'which hole to put my rope in' if you will.
Nonetheless, very informative video. I definitely am going to view it again. It definitely took out a lot of the spook and fear of going in raw on engines. The way that some mechanically inclined auto technicians have mythologized and deterred regular folks from trying out more elaborate engine repair would get anyone without the proper training or technical knowledge rightfully apprehensive.
Let's pretend you are on cylinder 1, you will remove all spark plugs, you will manually rotate the engine until cylinder 1 is Bottom Dead Center. Make sure the piston in cylinder 1 is all the way down. To determine this, stick a small stick about 2 feet long down the spark plug hole of cylinder 1. once the stick stops going down, you're good. Then you will grab the rope and start to fill the cylinder hole of #1 with about 6 feet of rope. Don't worry about coiling it in nice and neat, just shove that rope in there 6 feet. once you've done that, manually rotate the piston of cylinder 1 back up. You will rotate it by hand, until it stops. This causes the rope to compress and ball up, putting enough tension on the bottom of the valves, so you can remove the springs and retainers without the valves falling down in the engine. Once you've replaced that valve seal, and put the spring and retainer back, manually lower that same #1 cylinder, and remove the rope. Continue to the rest of the cylinders. Don't worry about the small fragments the rope may leave, the engine will burn that off in milliseconds. It will NOT cause any damage. This Honda engine, is still leak free and running STRONG. 400+ WBHP.
Nice work guys! I like how you keep each other in check with explanation and include the printed info to help maintain clarity and to facilitate finding the items! Very cool!
Thanks Guys! I never even thought of using a piece of rope. I've always had to take the heads to my work bench, took HOURS! This will save a lot of time and I can have a cold beer a lot faster! And you're right 'this ain't no Rolex show'!
I'm sold. I'm buying one of those tools to do my valve stem seals. Great video fellas.
Genius! I love that tool because it makes removing the keepers so easy, but I didn't like how you needed to remove the cylinder head to use it. With this trick it's now the ultimate valve spring remover cylinder head off or on the block. Thanks!!!
"My mission is to put a million miles on this engine" Haha love your spirit! that's the way I feel about my 98 Mirage whenever I fix something.
This is a great video, really carefully explained and complete with part numbers for the tools etc. Fantastic work guys!
I used an adapted version of this technique to change the stem seals on a GM/Opel/Vauxhall Z14XEP (horrible little 90hp engine compared to the GSR LS Vtec). A couple things I found:
The GA317 was too large a diameter to fit through the hole in the head to get to the valves, so we had to turn it down a few mm using a grinding stone.
The GM engine uses three ring keepers, that is it has three grooves machined into the valve stem for the keeper to sit in. We couldn't make the GA317 work for three ring keepers, so beware! We had to cut a hole in a piece of pipe, and while one person compressed the spring, the other installed the keepers using grease to stick it to a small screwdriver.
This job is done 100% manually. You will use a wrench and socket to lower the piston to the bottom. After you insert about 6 feet of nylon rope into the cylinder, you than bring the piston up manually, until it stops. DO NOT try to crank it. Once it stops, simply bump it a little "MANAULLY" and proceed to replace the valve seals. The oil has not been drained from the engine. The cylinder head has just been slightly wiped down to see better.
***** all i have to say is wow this is trash Just messing around This saves alot of people money i look forward to seeing your other videos i gotta do a headgasket on my car so this doesnt really apply to me but in the future on my other car that needs these seals just wow this is amazing i cant thank you enough how much time and money you are saving everyone thank you !
originaLkomatoast go on ebay you can buy the spring compressor alot cheaper but ebay has it all pretty much
originaLkomatoast the same exact way I worded it in the video.
What would happen if you keep driving like this without fixing the seals?
***** just don't. This is the cheapest, easiest way to fix it. Ignoring problems or half ass fixing problems leads to MAJOR problems in the future.
Great info, and just adding a tip for those without tool on hand I made one using a 1/2" drive deep socket and dremeled a big hole, slid magetic wand through it, install I used tweezers, I put another socket on top for room to hammer and worked out great!
Great vid guys. My b16a just started smoking and I was pissed! Compression good and the thing still rips so seals are about to get done. Just ordered this tool on Amazon warehouse deals for $18.00.
Awesome video, my Honda Accord is smoking a bit and sucking oil up like gasoline. My mechanic told me to change the oil grade due to high mileage (I have 150k) and that didn't work. My mechanic changed the oil pressure switch, which was leaking and that didn't help. My mechanic changed the PCV valve and that somewhat helped, but it still persist. I brought a whole cylinder head seal kit from Honda and my mechanic tells me that he has to remove the whole cylinder head to do this job. I like that he is doing one thing at a time, step by step in case one of these things is the problem and then it gets fixed, but it's costing me. I heard you say towards the end of the video that 9 out of 10 times, if the car is smoking it could be the seals. I hope that this is it and my car gets fixed, because my mechanic scared me with some bullshit story about... " if the seal job doesn't fix it, we might have to do the rings", and he gave me that look from the corner of his eye and rubbed the two fingers together (money sign) and said in a deep voice. "That's costly.
Well did your car end up needing rings or did the valve stem seals fix it
@@kennethbeard881 it needed rings. They were due to be changed. My mechanic told me that this particular problem happens to this Hondas. My mechanic made me buy a new engine. He said that a seal job and rings is going to cost as much as just getting a new engine. Plus he said that if whoever does that kind of job needs to be very well experienced, meaning eating, sleeping and a career person of many years of experience so that there are no problems. So I just went and got another engine especially with my mechanic's discount and put it in. Everything has been working great after that. He did tell me that these type of engines require high levels of oilat all times.
@@KingLess2000 what engine did you go back with ? My prelude has a h22a4 with the b series trans. It's quite smokey on acceleration but I figured I'd try seals first and if it needs rings I'd try boring it to an 88mm
@@kennethbeard881 I had a k24 and I replaced it with a k24. Didn't change anything.
Before you start this process it's a good idea to shove small pieces of cloth or paper towel into all of the oil return holes to preclude dropping anything (like one of the keepers) down one of the holes and into the crankcase. I learned this the hard way when I had a distributor taken out and I accidentally dropped a bolt down the hole. I ended up having to remove the oil pan to get it out.
Negative, if you use this tool, you wont have a problem with falling keepers. The magnate is very strong and the keepers have to be physically removed with needle nose pliers or tweezers. You need to use cloth and towels if you use the hammer/socket method.
@ Kleo 84 - You should re-read my comment again all the way to the end. Anytime you do anything like this you should always block any holes just in case you drop something. There is an old saying that goes, "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." Don't learn a hard lesson someday the same way I did.
Joe Vignolo No, I don't need to re-read your comment. I read it just fine. And if you use proper tools, the extra precautions are ALWAYS needed.
@ Kleo 84 - Suit yourself. But if someday you drop something and it falls deep down into the guts of an engine don't say you weren't warned.
Joe Vignolo Agree. I plug all oil galleries and spark plug tubes with blue disposable shop towels, regardless of the tools I'm using to replace the seals.
Brilliant idea by putting the rope in the cylinder to keep the valves from falling in! Thanks for the post guys!
" I always love to put a cherry on top" Love that line! Thanks for the video. good stuff!
Love it guys, laughing and learning at the same time :) Peace from Ireland
Someone mentioned that melting the old stem seals with a propane torch made them much easier to remove, he was ABSOLUTELY correct. Heated mine up until the springs started to warp, pulled them out, added a bit more heat and pulled and they slid right off. Side note to anyone doing this, take some plastic wrap from your kitchen and ball it up around the springs and more specifically the oil passages. That way as you remove the keepers they don't accidentally drop into the engine or get lost in the head.
Great video, guys. I remember seeing this technique in a book once, but I've never seen it demonstrated on video before.
Well... I'll be damn...! I knew something could be done without losing too much money. I'm not going to do my head gasket again, especially when I just put it in. Thanks guys saved me $80 on my head gasket.
Happy to help
I love this DIY you guys did. I salute you. I wish u had more videos.
Ron Sinson cool video but couldn't you put some tape around the valve stem before removing the spring to keep the valve from falling? you would have the clean the valve stem first with acetone so the tape would stick. then push the the new valve guide on the stem of the valve and take off the tape and push the new guide down the stem and put the tape on the stem above the guide and push the valve guide into place. this will keep you from having to take out the spark plugs. or you could use a big magnet to hold the valve. a magnet to big to fall into any holes.
That rope trick is pretty ingenius, great video!
Dude That was awesome. A lot better then them blood suckers at a shop. They wanted to hit me at the tune of 1800.00 bucks to do what you did. Thanks for the vid...
I broke a timing belt, heads r gud but slightly bent valves. This will help as im on. Budget👍 Great vid👍👍👍👍
35 people are mechanics. lol I've been a mechanic for 20 years. I change valve seals all the time with the head on. Your right about them wanting your money. Whats cool is you took the time to research the procedure and the tool. 👍
Huh, that's nonsense its much easier to spend hours..and hours ..and hours..(and sometimes DAYS) getting a head off, whilst swearing and getting real mad violent, then doing it on the bench...and doing the reverse!! But seriously, thanks you, I'd buy you guys a drink if I could, I never knew this was possible and I must bow to your greatness. Thanks loads!!
happy to help
Hahaha. Awesome vid. "This ain't no damn Rolex show..." And "we in a damn recession." Hahaha. Awesome.
Well man this guy has a beautiful Rolex😂🤣🤣🤣
Thank you so much for this video with the valve change.
Thank a lot from Brazil and United Kingdom.
Good video, a lot a good info and shortcuts! I've never considered using rope in the cylinder, I've always used compressed air. Appreciate the tips!
sick as hell ingenuity right here dudes. thank u for the millions i will save
Im actually interested in that trans trick you spoke about. Usually if im removing anything its a d series for a b series so never really thought of just removing the motor itself ha.
Very informative video I was trying to find that tool(thanks for part number) and ran across this never had to buy one since i usually get everything done at the machine shop when I need to change headgasket.
Thank you so much, guys!!! I just did it, quick and easy! Greetings from Italy!
Dude, fucking genius with that rope idea. I have a 240 with a KA-T that's smoking pretty bad right now, gotta get to those valve seals.
that rope trick was really nice and helped me a lot, thanks !!! way better than compressed air.
You guys are hilarious. Great vid! Thank you.
Great vid guys! Need to do this on my Toyota engine and every video I've seen says take the head off. Been looking for a way to do this without taking the head off. Thanks!
Thanks and good job! I'm gonna be replacing valve stem seals and retainers on my s2k ap1. And yes I did buy genuine honda seals lol..
It worked perfect on my DOHC ZC engine. That tool is amazing.
Thanks.
God bless y'all.
I read some reviews about this tool on amazon where it didn't fit the kepper on their car. I'm trying to do this on a CRV, so I'm assuming my K24 engine will have similar specs to the engine you were working with. Thanks for the video cause no one else is using this option.
Thanks alot guys!...Saved me ALOT of greef.. Thank you!!!!!!!!!!
Before I learned this method years ago we use to use compressed air in the cylinder. It works but if you accidentally push the valve down you lose all your pressure. The rope is by far the best failsafe way to do it.
THANK YOU LORD JESUS! You know how many mechanics i know from family and friends & every single one of them said it's a hard job because of the damm head! -_- I'm a female too, which made things even worse & extra expensive! So i decided to do my own research! & Thanks to you guys, i know now that it can be done in less than in an hour on my 95 Legend! :D
happy to help :-D
they just wanted your $, or something, or arent real mechanics. these dudes blew everybody away, thanks to them, im replacing all the seals myself and saving hundreds $. they are it!!
Excellent Video with all necessary information.
Nice work guys. PROPS!!! But if I would have a machine workshop DAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAMN!!!!
Great video man I done the same method on my 2000 camaro works flawlessly
THAT'S HOW FAM STICK TOGETHER MUCH LOVE!!!!
You are the maaan 😎 You just saved me a lot of time with that rope 😎 And got a loyal subscriber 😊💪
Another way of keeping the valve closed is to put what ever cylinder your working on at the top of its stroke , secure the crankshaft from turning in either direction buy using a socket and pull handel on the crank pulley bolt , and secure the pull handle with tie down straps or anything you can tie it off with and to .
Remove that cylinder spark plug and use a compression gauge tester with the valve core removed from the end that screws into the spark plug threads.
Hook that hose up to your shop air compressor hose and add 80 PSI to that cylinder .
80 PSI will hold the valve closed if the valves aren't bent .
Just be sure to keep the air pressure constant at all times , or the valve will fall down ....
nice one. Have to do this to my mk4 golf sdi. Good job it is only an sohc. Like the rope job instead of compressed air. Eric the car guy would approve as it is one of his methods as well.
Great vid. guys. Time and "money" saving process. Smart! Thanks
Great info on how to use that tool. Would never of thought to have worn a white shirt and Rolex watch while doing so though. ;)
+1955canuck Pnut always says, a good mechanic can get the job done right and still get to his date on time. LOL
It's Kevin and peanut lol good to see y'all doing good vids. Keep it up!P.S. It's Ray your old neighbor
+Ray G I'm sorry, who's old neighbor?
Kevin sold neibor. I'm Joe's son, if this is peanut you bought the 300zx turbo from my pops.
OH SHIT!! Raymond. Sup man, This is Kevin. My channel. your number still 9453?
+Kleo 84 yep! same number bro
Thank you for the great tips! I love the rope trick!
Nice job, but we do not understand the rope part.Do you just shovel it in and let it coil inside of the cylinder then turn the motor so the when the piston comes up it pushes the rope against the valve keeping it from falling in ?
Yep.
i dd nt undrstand tht part aswell
but ovrall its cool idea....thnks guys thumps up👍
The rope acts as an even base for the valve to rest on too - if you were to just wind the piston up to the valve to lock it and do this you'd probably bend the valve as only one lip of it will contact the piston.
Ty for posting this video. It's going to help me a lot.
This is awesome ! I want to do it . But do u just release the cambelt tension when taking cams out ? I see the belt still sits there. Nice vid guys .
That is well cool way to change seals, I am going to do it!...Nile Rogers forever!
Can you also take the lma springs out this way ???? With the rockerarms stil in ????
You guys are hilarious,.......and talented.
What was that cylinder magnet tool?
Thats great but how do you get the rope back out if its pressed against the top
Hi guys, great video - got the tool. In regards to "timing" back up the engine.
You have taken out the cams, having timed the engine up to TDC on cylinder 1 to begin. Slipped off the belt.. cylinder one is ready to work on. Do I just manually crank over once finished on C1 to C2 TDC? (The belt is obvs still in tension sorta will it all just turn ok too..?) etc etc
✌🏻
So do you have to put the rope down every cylinder hole to do each 4? Thanks
U can also use 80-90psi of compressed air to hold the valves up (use a compression tester hose)...it's faster cause you don't have to sit there shoving rope into the cylinder (make sure you have at least a 30 gallon compressor)...only disadvantage is that you can't hear your music over the compressor noise...
Bro, u defenately know what time is it, awesome video!
Did you rotate the piston for TDC to put the rope and how you do it please?
do i need to adjust valve clearance after i put back the rocker arms?? hope you can shed info...thanks
+Kleo 84
first off - that's a beautiful engine and nice car too! with that much bhp, i bet the exhaust sound must give you goosebumps man ;)
I'm fixing the wife's 1996 opel astra f cc (a GM 'spin-off) at the moment. everything was running okay, until i realized that the valve seals needed doing, ffs...
this posting pointed me in the right direction though ref. the tool needed. the head's off due to the head gasket throwing it's teddy bear into multiple corners....
the car's only a 1.4i with 60bhp (don't laugh mate....i can 'sense' you laughing, lol )...it does the job mind, even though it 'lacks' the bollocks to take on a grandma going uphill in a wheelchair.
aye! thanks for posting this mate....best wishes to you from the other side of 'the pond' (aka Europe)
subscribed, btw ;)
Good video guys, it's motivating me to do mines also.. thanks
did this fix your smoke problem? or was it something else causing it to smoke?
So you just did for the exhaust side, same thing for intake side?
Excellent video, guys. Thanks
GREAT JOB GENTLEMAN, THANX!
You guys are too hilarious 😂😂😂 love it!
I see that you guys left the timing belt in place instead of removing the whole thing. Did you just skip the belt off the gears or did you loosen the tensioner to get it off? I don’t wanna remove the entire belt, and didn’t know if you could just slip the belt off without removing the tensioner. Thanks
I just have a question let me get this straight you basically stuffed as much rope as you could inside the block simply to keep them from falling in right??
Thanks guys for the video it was easy to do
great video!kleo84 where did you guys buy the removal tool?
Question bro do you literally put a lot of rope down the spark plug hole? Anything else going down there besides that to hold the valves up
Wow nice video was the name of that tool you use to put back the retainers and clips ?
To dissassembly with the tool works very good but how can you get it work when you assemby the keepers back. Impossible on a SAAB 93 or 95. Some hint please!
well done guys...nice job on the video.
now are you able to remove the valve spring seats without taking the head off?
how would you suggest doing this method on an engine with cups on top of the valves? I'm wanting to do mine on a 2L-te diesel from a Toyota surf. just hate taking the head off.
Pretty sure you saved me 1k on my SAAB. Thanks guys!
Gotta replace the valve seals on my 1980 z28 this will help out allot
Im not sure what the tools name use!? That saves alot of money!! Thanks!!
Thanks Folks. Nice video. it is ery useful!
Thanks for the video, do you know if this rope technique can be used on any engine? Also is it enough just to raise the cylinder with the rope and that's it or it needs to be fixed in place by a pin?
Kleo84 Hey I have a question, I have a 1999 Honda Accord EX V6 and I bought the valve stem seals for it. Once I replace them, should I still continue using Full Synthetic High Mileage oil? or Just Full Synthetic?
Can you elaborate on the rope part? Also it looked really clean, did you have the oil drained out of it?
please elaborate the rope part?
Felix Bonilla 0:40 seconds into the video will explain it.
***** I was told by a lot of mechanics the rope is not really necessary because once you crank the camshaft it brings the piston up to hold the valve. Explain to me like, once I insert the rope in the cylinder hole, what do I do next?
***** You're one of my sources to doing this project myself because everyone does it differently or want $ for such easy replacement. After changing the valve seals, what do I do next? do set the valves right or something? or can I just put it back together and it'll adjust itself? do I have to adjust anything else before putting the head back together?
Felix Bonilla you have to do a valve adjustment.
My car smokes at startup and causes oil build up in my pcv valve, could this fix it, you guys are crazy informative
Kleo 84 Very nice video. How can I tell if it is the piston rings or valve seals need getting done? Car consumes a lot of oil but no smoke. I think cat is blocking smoke. Last time performed compression test and it seemed ok but will perform again to be sure.
This helps alot! I was thinking I was going to have remove the head. How far do I need to stuff the rope? doesn't it need to coil in a circle underneath the valves in order to keep the valves from falling, correct? I am replacing the head gasket, piston rings, and valve stem seals since my mistu eclipse gst smokes. the guy i bought it from did not maintain it and did some pretty dumb stuff too. Just bought my valve keeper for $44 :-)
Olwyn Oduinn just put about 6feet in the cylinder, doesn't really matter if it coils or not, Because when you bring the piston up, it will compress it into a nice tight bunch and prevent the valves from falling.
Earned another sub. I guys are great where u located
Killeen / Fort Hood Tx.
Can't wait to try this on my B20!