Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement Honda Element 2003-2011
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video we show how to replace the rear brake pads and brake rotor on a 2003-2011 Honda Element.
If you have any further interest please visit www.2carpros.com
*Disclaimer: Please use all safety precautions
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Some simple tips to help you out. Grease the slider pins so the caliper doesn't seize later on. take the cap off the brake reservoir to make pushing in the piston caliper easier. When pushing in the piston just use the old pad and a vice clamp. The pad allows even pressure on the piston without damaging it.
Make sure to disengage the emergency brake. I couldn’t get the rotor off and that was the problem. I hope this helps someone
Great tip! Thank you for watching!
2CarPros thanks for the video! It helped me a ton
Right on man!
Same. Duh!
INCREDIBLY FAST AND TO HE POINT! You ALL ARE GREAT THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!
Remember to ALWAYS replace hardware and re-lube the pins and the surfaces the pads slide on, also it don't hurt to do it on the backing plates of the pads.
Thanks for the great vids! You guys save us a lot of money on diy car repairs! Funny thing I noticed in this video, the old rotor is actually thicker than the replacement new one, lol! I know it's probably warped, but funny how it looks much better than the new one.
Thank you so much for watching and commenting it helps a lot! Yeah the material removal is noticeable when it comes to brakes!
Thank you very much for taking the time to do this I was wondering if anybody in here might have a link to a step by step as good of quality as this one for replacing calipers
There was no mention of lubrication. Isn't that a critical step?? Especially on the Element??
Definitely. Use silicone brake lube on pads AND slider pins, otherwise things will rust and seize. Dealer wanted to charge me $300 for a new left rear caliper but caliper was fine, the problem was the slider pins rusted in place. I loosened them with torch and lots of twisting. Cleaned and reinstalled with new boots. Cost: about $20. Watch out for dealers!
Thanks Again guys just did the rear brakes!
Thank you so much for watching!
@ 1:49 make sure your parking brake is off for this process on both sides.
Thanks a bunch!!! Just drill the screws out they were only there for factory assembly
I was hoping for some info on shims and lubrication but they got no mention at all?
What size bolts did you use to remove the disk ?
+ALFONSO RAMOS (FONSITO)
12mm
+ALFONSO RAMOS (FONSITO)
For rear rotars to remove
M8-1.25 x 12mm
1.25 is the thread pitch
I found this on a forum and went to O'Reilys and bought a box of 4 and they worked great.
I discovered you can also use the brake caliper slide bolts for this, as they're the correct size.
THANK YOU!
Wait, the rear caliper pistons don’t have to be screwed back in? Sweet!
WAIT YEAH, can anyone confirm this?! I'm about to do my friends brakes and I do NOT want to go there with out the right tool for screwin em back in
Screwed back in?
@@tbomberus Some calipers require the piston to be rotated in as they are reset, as opposed to just being pushed straight back.
Not sure how you all missed that. He literally instructed to do it at 3:21 and 4:20
do you not need to open brake fluid reservoir to relief pressure from compression of brake piston???
thewonderer no you don't.
What do I do woth the metal tang on the break pad when I'm putting it in? I'm a novice lol
Do i dont need anti seize for the pads
thank you! this looks easy enough for me! if an impact screw driver necessary if i don't have one?
You might be able to get away with it. If not your local pep boys or auto zone can rent you the tool. Please subscribe if you have not already.
jason jason I bought one on eBay for $13 free shipping. I highly recommend you get one I tried my front breaks without one and the driver side screw stripped lol. Needless to say the right tools get the job done in half the time. I struggled to get that screw out.
Make sure the phillips screws are not JIS standard. If they are you will need to grind end of a phillips screwdriver to a flatter tip. That will keep the phillips tip from "camming" out. ( JIS = Japanese Industrial Standard).
You can also use a cordless impact such as a Milwaukee 18 volt, just make sure you use the right size tip. Hit it with some never seize before you replace it.
Also tightening before loosening will help, alternating back and forth. I cannot express enough to use penetrating fluid and let it set for awhile, go eat lunch. Spray it numerous times and rotate hub periodically so gravity works for you.
What happened to replacing the cap (maintenance hole) on the rotor? Is that necessary to replace?
The cap is a rubber plug which you remove to adjust the Parking brake. I believe that you move the wheel down to expand the amount of drag on the parking brake shoes. The rotor should hold a little while trying to pull them off.
Have any of you had issues with the back break plate? Twice before my rear brake job has HD issues with rotor. Also is it necessary to replace rotor every time you switch out pads?
I don't switch out rotor unless warped or below spec. Some do it every time, I think it's unnecesary though.
Thank you!
I had a lot of trouble with the dust shield which is what I believe your referring to. The rotor would actually bind up when the lugs were tightened. i had to grind off the raised rim on the rotor. Honda says that its rust pushing out the plate. I don't see that. I will try to get a shim between the rotor and the bearing hub. I don't know what else to do. The grinding does work.
The porn music is great.
No brake grease applied to any points?! Squeal City.
No squeals at all on ours. Thanks for watching!
So need for any brake grease?
I literally did the front and rear pads/rotors on yesterday without using the lube. No squealing or noise at all!!