@@MrFiltyrich I thought the exact same thing as you when I first tried contour cutting. Telling the cutter where those registration marks should have been the actual calibration (at least in my mind thats what makes sense). When you go to the CONTOUR CUT WIZARD and the new window opens up, look at the lower right corner of the window. You will see an option to CALIBRATE. Pull the blade out of your cutter and replace it with your PEN ADAPTER. Click the CALIBRATE option and you'll have the option to print a calibration sheet. Print it from your regular printer. It'll be a grid-like pattern with both vertical and horizontal numbers. Attach that calibration sheet to a cutting mat or something similar to keep it stiff and in place (use tape if you need to). Once you have the calibration sheet attached to a cutting mat insert it into your cutter and follow the steps on the screen for calibration. It'll draw a vertical and horizontal line then it'll ask you to input the numbers that correspond with those lines. Keep running through the calibration process (you dont need to print a new sheet each time. I used the same one and kept track of which lines were the new ones) until your horizontal and vertical lines cross dead center at ZERO. Once calibrated replace the pen adapter with your blade and continue with your contour cutting project. You DO NOT need to calibrate each time you do a contour cutter. The calibration should hold for quite some time. I calibrated my cutter over a year ago and as of last week I am stiill getting perfect contour cutting every time. Oh I forgot to mention before you print the calibration sheet you can choose what level of calibration (quick, full, blade offset,etc). I chose the FULL calibration because my thinking is I wanted it to be as precise as possible.
From my experience, I believe you have to use the offsets feature in the software rather than going into the manual move mode. There is a small area on the bottom left of the popup when it begins moving the tool to the registration marks. This allows you to use keyboard controls (arrow keys) to edit the offset from the "theoretical point" (which is where the software thinks the registration mark is). With the keyboard controls, I find it moves in mm increments but if you want finer increments you have to type it in manually. To my knowledge, based on the data you give it, the software is supposed to calculate some sort of skew and apply that to the cut which should "perfectly" outline your design but similar to your struggles, I find that its no where near as accurate as it should be. This could stem from both our manual locating of the registration marks aswell as the sotware itself but for things that don't need a large accuracy or things that can be printed with bleed, it works ok. Definitely a hassle to setup but it works. Let me know if you find any other tips thatll help me out too ehe!
Hi. I have the vevor plotter for about 7 years now. Trying to do die cut manually but alignment keeps running and simple cuts always have issues. Software included to me is artcut. You mind sharing the signmaster type that you have? Cause there's a few type "Arms" n others
Just to be clear… the Vevor cutter also does full color print? Also, do you print on a laminated vinyl? Or do you print… laminate … and then put laminated vinyl back into the vevor to cut?
I tried to cut mylar on my Vevor, It cut but I think I need a mat board to hold it in place!! Have you tried cutting thicker material? I was trying to make a template 😊Robbie
The thickest thing I’ve cut was laminated sticker paper. I use a cutting mat whenever I cut something like that. Right now I’m using a Silhouette Cameo Plus to cut my stickers & it’s working our pretty well. The Cameo is a really nice machine for the money.
Is 34 size the sweet spot? Since they are smaller ones. I’m looking to do big cuts I have a Cricut explore air 2 and to do a big sticker I have to do some many cuts
I don’t recommend this cutter for stickers. I only use it now for large cut vinyl jobs. If I’m making stickers I use my Roland BN-20a or my Cameo Plus.
@@mikesstickers I need to do a 5feet by 3 feet in my Cricut is just a messy piece so this machine on big cuts does amazing? Because I was really looking at the cameo 4 pro
@@gregtech5235 I was using this machine for learn. I was only making stickers for myself but it ended up turning into a business. I definitely don’t recommend it for making stickers but if it’s all you have then this video could be helpful. All my videos are in chronological order & show my process from when I was just making stickers for myself to running a successful at home sticker business.
Hey man, I'm trying to cut my decals on printable vinyl after applying a UV laminate over after printing, but I just can't get it to cut through at all and I'm on the high pound for cut. Any suggestions?
@@RenegadeMafiaCrew HQMaster 60 Degree Tungsten Steel Lettering Blade Vinyl Cutter Blades for Roland Cutting Plotter, Blue Cap Pack of 10 a.co/d/3WHPnz6
It’s been over a year since I’ve used that machine & I don’t own it anymore. Play around with it until you figure it out. I think it just roughly needs to be 1 inch from the crosshairs.
![อยู่ได้แล้ว - LIPTA feat. Mirrr [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-9-hpntNym4/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks you’re a game changer
I use the same software on a Titan 2 cutter. Calibrate your cutter and your contour cutting will be spot on for every single sticker.
How do you calibrate your cutter? I feel like aligning the registration marks to the blade should be the calibration
@@MrFiltyrich I thought the exact same thing as you when I first tried contour cutting. Telling the cutter where those registration marks should have been the actual calibration (at least in my mind thats what makes sense). When you go to the CONTOUR CUT WIZARD and the new window opens up, look at the lower right corner of the window. You will see an option to CALIBRATE. Pull the blade out of your cutter and replace it with your PEN ADAPTER. Click the CALIBRATE option and you'll have the option to print a calibration sheet. Print it from your regular printer. It'll be a grid-like pattern with both vertical and horizontal numbers. Attach that calibration sheet to a cutting mat or something similar to keep it stiff and in place (use tape if you need to). Once you have the calibration sheet attached to a cutting mat insert it into your cutter and follow the steps on the screen for calibration. It'll draw a vertical and horizontal line then it'll ask you to input the numbers that correspond with those lines. Keep running through the calibration process (you dont need to print a new sheet each time. I used the same one and kept track of which lines were the new ones) until your horizontal and vertical lines cross dead center at ZERO. Once calibrated replace the pen adapter with your blade and continue with your contour cutting project. You DO NOT need to calibrate each time you do a contour cutter. The calibration should hold for quite some time. I calibrated my cutter over a year ago and as of last week I am stiill getting perfect contour cutting every time. Oh I forgot to mention before you print the calibration sheet you can choose what level of calibration (quick, full, blade offset,etc). I chose the FULL calibration because my thinking is I wanted it to be as precise as possible.
Thanks for the great video what is the price for the vinyl cutter.
What kind of paper did you use to print?
From my experience, I believe you have to use the offsets feature in the software rather than going into the manual move mode.
There is a small area on the bottom left of the popup when it begins moving the tool to the registration marks. This allows you to use keyboard controls (arrow keys) to edit the offset from the "theoretical point" (which is where the software thinks the registration mark is). With the keyboard controls, I find it moves in mm increments but if you want finer increments you have to type it in manually.
To my knowledge, based on the data you give it, the software is supposed to calculate some sort of skew and apply that to the cut which should "perfectly" outline your design but similar to your struggles, I find that its no where near as accurate as it should be. This could stem from both our manual locating of the registration marks aswell as the sotware itself but for things that don't need a large accuracy or things that can be printed with bleed, it works ok.
Definitely a hassle to setup but it works. Let me know if you find any other tips thatll help me out too ehe!
Hi. I have the vevor plotter for about 7 years now. Trying to do die cut manually but alignment keeps running and simple cuts always have issues.
Software included to me is artcut.
You mind sharing the signmaster type that you have?
Cause there's a few type "Arms" n others
I have SignMaster V3.5 but I haven’t used it since I sold my Vevor cutter. I’m using a Graphtec now.
It's sign master v5 now.
Just to be clear… the Vevor cutter also does full color print? Also, do you print on a laminated vinyl? Or do you print… laminate … and then put laminated vinyl back into the vevor to cut?
No it doesn't do full color prints. It's just a cutter.
No cutter does not print. Use a generic inkjet printer, just print on top of the vinyl
I tried to cut mylar on my Vevor, It cut but I think I need a mat board to hold it in place!! Have you tried cutting thicker material? I was trying to make a template 😊Robbie
The thickest thing I’ve cut was laminated sticker paper. I use a cutting mat whenever I cut something like that. Right now I’m using a Silhouette Cameo Plus to cut my stickers & it’s working our pretty well. The Cameo is a really nice machine for the money.
You can use the different Rolland blades to achive this for thicker material use the rolland blade with the green plastic cap
To cut Mylar use a mat board and set up the software to do several passes. Each pass will cut deeper into the material.
Is 34 size the sweet spot? Since they are smaller ones. I’m looking to do big cuts I have a Cricut explore air 2 and to do a big sticker I have to do some many cuts
I don’t recommend this cutter for stickers. I only use it now for large cut vinyl jobs. If I’m making stickers I use my Roland BN-20a or my Cameo Plus.
@@mikesstickers I need to do a 5feet by 3 feet in my Cricut is just a messy piece so this machine on big cuts does amazing? Because I was really looking at the cameo 4 pro
@@mikesstickers A vevo cutter is an ideal machine for stickers I have noissues with it
@@mikesstickers I am confused. You don't recommend this cutter for stickers, but the video is about making die-cut stickers. Please elaborate. thanks
@@gregtech5235 I was using this machine for learn. I was only making stickers for myself but it ended up turning into a business. I definitely don’t recommend it for making stickers but if it’s all you have then this video could be helpful. All my videos are in chronological order & show my process from when I was just making stickers for myself to running a successful at home sticker business.
How long you have this cutter?
Since 10/6/2022
No laser detection for registration mark ?
He said that in the video at least 3 times
Hey man, I'm trying to cut my decals on printable vinyl after applying a UV laminate over after printing, but I just can't get it to cut through at all and I'm on the high pound for cut. Any suggestions?
I’ll post my setting when I get home but you need the 90 degree (blue) blade. I think I use 3 passes & 130g or more of pressure.
@@mikesstickers perfect, my friend. How do I get this blade?
@@RenegadeMafiaCrew HQMaster 60 Degree Tungsten Steel Lettering Blade Vinyl Cutter Blades for Roland Cutting Plotter, Blue Cap Pack of 10 a.co/d/3WHPnz6
Sorry, I meant to say 60 degree blade
@@mikesstickers perfect! You just saved me! And this video also helped for me to perfect the cut a lot better. Super glad you did this!
software said 1 inches below... question is below the square mark or below the cross???
It’s been over a year since I’ve used that machine & I don’t own it anymore. Play around with it until you figure it out. I think it just roughly needs to be 1 inch from the crosshairs.
Yeah mine said 1 inch gap is recommended for some reason. I haven't tried moving it closer yet.
need help pleaseeeeeeeee
I'd say check the software on the tools tab. I had a funny ghost s with one of my graphics. The tools will tell you every element on the page.