Nothing better than taking something headed to the dumpster and bringing it back to life. Since we are seeing this vid, we know it means you got that pcb working. Looking forward to seeing it working.
I appreciate the Christine reference. One of top 5 adaptations of King's novels. I always like when you talk of buying machines from other people. My Dad was a contract negotiator for one of the top aircraft technology and computer chip corporations in America. So I like the act of the deal/negotiation at whatever level. I think it's always great to save a classic Asteroids arcade game.
We're all about the deal here for sure! If he was a contract negotiator he was doing it at a lot higher level then we are though, LOL Thank you for watching Melanated Prose Christine is one of my favorite movies for sure!
Another really enjoyable video. Honestly the longer your videos are, the more I like em too. I can easily watch you working on my favourite machines for hours.
Thank you Drumfreak, that's very kind of you to say! I talk so much it's hard to make short videos, some people like it some people hate it, oh well i'm what I am. See you on the next one!
Thanks Joe! You helped me with the tantalum caps on the SI Deluxe on the forums :D moving on to my Asteroid now! testing power supply tonight! let the games begin! sorta :D
Power brick gone, brutal. Nice thorough walkthrough on the brick and being able to date the big blue was cool man. Finding so many random odds and ends in your parts haha, gotta love how that old gear is earning its years of storage. Nice work replacing the heart of that old machine.
I like it, Baby! What a nice project to save a original Astroid Arcade Cabinet that under his cover of dust had a very solid condition as base to work on!! Real good stuff, Dude!!!!👍👍👍😊
Barn find with pack rat owner. 😑 Actually played this with owner back in 2002, worked great! She moved and stashed it in this chithole shed 16 yrs ago. I ordered a manual with schematics. Just picked it up from her Monday in exchange for cleaning and de ratting her shed. It cleaned nicely, minor wire chewing surprisingly. Thought I'd get an expert's opinion! I'd love to get it running and trade for an original Galaga stand up or cocktail.
@@LyonsArcade by the way that Beast you're talking about in the capacitor. It is actually called the electrolyte. And in most cases is actually a liquid but it's absorbed into another material. In most cases. Hence electrolytic capacitor. Also is it a good idea to replace those with a computer grade capacitor. I just do that if I work on something of a big old power supply cap. It might be a good choice also for reliability? The good ones are more expensive but maybe worth it. At least in terms of longevity and overtime.
Yeah I like all those super old ones, they're all so unique and have a lot of character to them... I'll be doing some really old school stuff soon, we're getting deeper and deeper into our warehouse :)
Save yourself to cost of the tool to remove the pins from plugs, go to local hobby shop or Hobby Lobby and find K&S tubing rack, find tubing ( Aluminum or brass 12" long) that just fits over the pins (Tubing ID) and also fits inside the plastic plug hole (Tubing OD) quick and easy as well as cheap.
Morning, I have an Asteroids with -05 PCB. I have had it since I was in 3rd grade, I'm 40 now! I had a bad power cord and replaced that, and still no power. It's been in storage for 20 + years. Worked fine, and I lost screen 1st, had sound, and could play blind. Now, I have no power at all.
Fascinating video. Figured well an arcade game would be a better option because look at all things that can go wrong on a pinball... oh. Haha. Can you still get new vector monitors? Color X-Y ones for say Tempest? Just curious.
Unfortunately you can't get new Vector Monitors (they stopped making them about 1983!), and you can't even get new raster monitors anymore, only LCD/LED/Flat Panel monitors, and anything bigger than 19" they're the wrong aspect ratio. So we're stuck, for now, fixing all the old ones.
I got one of these but it was wrecked beyond belief. Ive done my best to makd it work , i wish mine was in better condition. My art, and control panel were wrecked and the pcb , bezel, and marquee was gone
Hi. At 5:10 you talk about the power coming in.. my cocktail asteroids has the same connection, but, my power cord is chewed up. I don't really want to put a wire connector block in to do a bodge job. Is there a way of getting the pins out of the cord connector so that when I cut the wire, I can put the wires onto the pins properly and not use a connector/terminal style block on to reconnect the wires..
You could remove the pins but then you'd need new ones to put on the new cord. What I would do, is order the replacement connector and pins from www.GreatPlainsElectronics.com .... he sells all the little connectors and pins etc. that you need for any game. You'll need a little tool to crimp them on too, so you'd probably be looking at $3 or so for the parts, and $12 or so for the crimping tool, plus shipping.... plus the power cord wherever you get it from.
Awesome, thanks. I was hoping I could just slide them out with a cocktail stick or something. Great videos by the way. Such a great variety and great that you replied so fast. :)
I have one of these in my shop right now. The picture is jumping side to side. No pattern it's jumping like crazy at different levels. I've replaced the HV diode off the flyback anode lead twice. It stopped the first time I replaced it but came back after a couple of months. There is no arcing, jump jumping. I scoped the X and Y videos and scoped them to x-y on the scope and it's not jumping out of the game board. If you have any ideas I'd love to hear them. If there's any way I could speak to you that'd work too.
Impossible to decipher the date codes on Richey caps. They do use date codes but they aren't the typical 4 digit date codes. They are 5 digits which includes an alphanumeric character. The five characters appear random but they factor in the month, year, phase of moon and how many licks it takes to get to the center of a Tootsie Roll Tootsie Pop. They then raise each number to the power of pi and use the 2nd to the last digit as part of the date code. For example - caps I have now say "J1785". Decyphering the date code says December, 2019 for date of manufacture (they give month, not week), the moon was in the phase of "Waning Gibbous" (December 18th) and it took 3 licks that day.
New power cord now fitted to my cocktail asteroids.. Now we have a new interesting problem. When the saucers appear, they don't make the warning noise that usually lets you know they are around. They still make the shooting noise, but the high or low pitch warbling is missing. Any idea where those sounds are stored? I heard it doesn't have a sound chip as such, so just wondering where that may be stored on the PCB chips
Sure, if you look @ the schematics : arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arcade_Atari_Kee/Asteroids_Cocktail/Asteroids_Cocktail_DP-150-2nd-02B.pdf If I was going to guess I'd say the 555 time at r10.... they're known for going bad.
Love all the videos! Wondering if you can help. I want to replace both pot's (contrast and brightness) on an Asteroids upright. What would be my plan of attack? Do I need to discharge the monitor? Where can I get quality parts? Thanks in advance.
Alright friend. Have the smaller version with the 15in screen. I have an image and the game plays but it’s 1/2 the screen vertically? Adjustable on the board? X Y? Any tips appreciated. Haven’t cracked it open just yet. It’s just been sitting. Waiting. Halp?
You would think that, but there are different ways of doing the code, that particular one was bought from Great Plains Electronics and he always has fresh stuff.... but it sure looks like 98 to me :) I think the "I" in front of it is a month code and that's a different code system. I'm looking at some other Richey capacitors I have here and they've got several different date codes stamped on them, all with a letter first and then 3 or 4 numbers after so I think it's probably a combination of a month, then 1 year number, then a lot code or something. I saw a post online from GPE from early 2010 saying they had just ordered a bunch of 'big blue' capacitors... so I'll bet this one is from that lot, likely made in 2009.
@@LyonsArcade Yes date codes can be confusing. Even a new '98 capacitior is likely to be somewhat better than a very used '79 unit. You would like to think so anyway. Great videos :-)
Nope -- although that is commonly how date codes work, that is not how Richey does theirs. Richey uses a secret decoder ring and the phase of the moon for their date codes. I asked my rep at Richey how to decipher the date codes, they wouldn't tell me. But if you gave the the marking (with the alpha character) - they could tell you over the phone when it was made. An example of their date code from a batch that was made in December of 2019 = J1785. Certainly not made in 85th week of 2017. Note, seldom are any of these Big Blue caps are over one year old when sold and never had a batch last to two years. I typically order a new batch of these every year. -- Ed (GPE)
JOE CLASSIC GAMES, why do most arcade games power supplies use only One filter capacitor at such a very large capacitance at 27,000uf microfarad? This is not common in power supplies for other applications which use multiple filter caps, but why 27,000uf for what reasons to filter out what?
I'm not sure why Bill, that's a good question. This particular capacitor is on the 10.6vdc line, which goes off this power supply to the regulator board and gets turned into 5volts.
@@LyonsArcade do you think its for the audio board that needs to draw a lot of current from the power supply when it makes the sub frequencies lower frequencies sound effects need more current from the power supply?
I'm getting some crazy readings from my power brick (Asteroids Deluxe). The ground pins 4 and 5 are not working (when I use them as a ground with my multimeter). My 10.6 readings for pins 1-3 start out at 30+ then slowly trickle down to about 18.0. Pins 6 and 7 should be 36 volts AC, I get 20.3 and 13.3. Pins 8 and 9 I get 2.6 and 0.3 instead of 6.1. Pins 10-15 are supposed to be 60 volts. I get 22.4, 1.0, 24.1, 8.5, 12.7 and 33.9. Any ideas???
@@LyonsArcade I thought the same, put new Duracells to replace the cheapo batteries it came with (it's the blue Centech you get from Harbor Freight). I got the same exact readings afterwards...Change the Big Blue???
Nothing better than taking something headed to the dumpster and bringing it back to life. Since we are seeing this vid, we know it means you got that pcb working. Looking forward to seeing it working.
Coming soon :)
I appreciate the Christine reference. One of top 5 adaptations of King's novels. I always like when you talk of buying machines from other people. My Dad was a contract negotiator for one of the top aircraft technology and computer chip corporations in America. So I like the act of the deal/negotiation at whatever level. I think it's always great to save a classic Asteroids arcade game.
We're all about the deal here for sure! If he was a contract negotiator he was doing it at a lot higher level then we are though, LOL Thank you for watching Melanated Prose Christine is one of my favorite movies for sure!
Another really enjoyable video. Honestly the longer your videos are, the more I like em too. I can easily watch you working on my favourite machines for hours.
Thank you Drumfreak, that's very kind of you to say! I talk so much it's hard to make short videos, some people like it some people hate it, oh well i'm what I am. See you on the next one!
It's always nice to see old hardware come back to life. Thanks.
Think how the old hardware must feel... it probably thought it was all over.
Thanks Joe! You helped me with the tantalum caps on the SI Deluxe on the forums :D moving on to my Asteroid now! testing power supply tonight! let the games begin! sorta :D
Very cool, glad you got it going!
Power brick gone, brutal. Nice thorough walkthrough on the brick and being able to date the big blue was cool man. Finding so many random odds and ends in your parts haha, gotta love how that old gear is earning its years of storage. Nice work replacing the heart of that old machine.
Thanks for watching WG we appreciate it, you're right I love when the Hoarding pays off :)
@@LyonsArcade Hoarding? Shhh! You mean Collecting! haha. Be well Joe.
-Mitch
Thank you for saving the best old game ever!
Thanks Chad, we appreciate it! See you on the next edition.
I like it, Baby! What a nice project to save a original Astroid Arcade Cabinet that under his cover of dust had a very solid condition as base to work on!! Real good stuff, Dude!!!!👍👍👍😊
Thank you Ralonso, glad you enjoyed it!
@@LyonsArcade 🤗
Barn find with pack rat owner. 😑 Actually played this with owner back in 2002, worked great! She moved and stashed it in this chithole shed 16 yrs ago. I ordered a manual with schematics. Just picked it up from her Monday in exchange for cleaning and de ratting her shed. It cleaned nicely, minor wire chewing surprisingly. Thought I'd get an expert's opinion! I'd love to get it running and trade for an original Galaga stand up or cocktail.
Sure email us some pics we'll tell you what we think of it!
13:25 “I’ve got two nuts that I don’t know what to do with” 🤔
I'm glad somebody's paying attention!
Just picked up a 1979 Asteroids serial # is mid 400's. Has the owl eye coin slots. I guess it blows the main fuse.
Very cool, that's definitely an early one. Unplug everything and see if it still blows the fuse, it might be the bridge rectifier in the power brick.
Ooh, this just gets me excited! I’m sure that back room you guys have is full of very interesting parts and pieces.
You know it. We've got quite a few games in various states of disrepair we're slowing bringing back to life. We always end up buying more, too...
@@LyonsArcade by the way that Beast you're talking about in the capacitor.
It is actually called the electrolyte.
And in most cases is actually a liquid but it's absorbed into another material.
In most cases.
Hence electrolytic capacitor.
Also is it a good idea to replace those with a computer grade capacitor.
I just do that if I work on something of a big old power supply cap.
It might be a good choice also for reliability?
The good ones are more expensive but maybe worth it.
At least in terms of longevity and overtime.
Thanks for the video's, I really like the Space Invaders & Asteroids Video's you have done not many video's with the 19 inch black Monitors
Yeah I like all those super old ones, they're all so unique and have a lot of character to them... I'll be doing some really old school stuff soon, we're getting deeper and deeper into our warehouse :)
Thank you
really like and appreciate the repair videos- it helps us that dont have the years of experience - tyvm!!!
Thanks for watching Terry! Love that Firebird!
one of those things,didnt want it to end !!!! lol ..thank you joe !! x :)
LOL Well next time we'll pick up right where we left off. We have to leave them wanting more, you know....
@@LyonsArcade yeah i know !! :) x
I looking for a nanao 2930 platin,capkited,new or like new tht,yoke...also the fuses for blast city.
Great MK marquee (more my time).
Thanks.
Sam I don't have any of those in right now, have you looked on KLOV.com ?
Save yourself to cost of the tool to remove the pins from plugs, go to local hobby shop or Hobby Lobby and find K&S tubing rack, find tubing ( Aluminum or brass 12" long) that just fits over the pins (Tubing ID) and also fits inside the plastic plug hole (Tubing OD) quick and easy as well as cheap.
That's a good idea David, i've seen those at Michael's before I think, I'll check it out!
Morning,
I have an Asteroids with -05 PCB. I have had it since I was in 3rd grade, I'm 40 now! I had a bad power cord and replaced that, and still no power. It's been in storage for 20 + years. Worked fine, and I lost screen 1st, had sound, and could play blind. Now, I have no power at all.
Fascinating video. Figured well an arcade game would be a better option because look at all things that can go wrong on a pinball... oh. Haha. Can you still get new vector monitors? Color X-Y ones for say Tempest? Just curious.
Unfortunately you can't get new Vector Monitors (they stopped making them about 1983!), and you can't even get new raster monitors anymore, only LCD/LED/Flat Panel monitors, and anything bigger than 19" they're the wrong aspect ratio. So we're stuck, for now, fixing all the old ones.
I got one of these but it was wrecked beyond belief. Ive done my best to makd it work , i wish mine was in better condition. My art, and control panel were wrecked and the pcb , bezel, and marquee was gone
Hi. At 5:10 you talk about the power coming in.. my cocktail asteroids has the same connection, but, my power cord is chewed up. I don't really want to put a wire connector block in to do a bodge job. Is there a way of getting the pins out of the cord connector so that when I cut the wire, I can put the wires onto the pins properly and not use a connector/terminal style block on to reconnect the wires..
You could remove the pins but then you'd need new ones to put on the new cord. What I would do, is order the replacement connector and pins from www.GreatPlainsElectronics.com .... he sells all the little connectors and pins etc. that you need for any game. You'll need a little tool to crimp them on too, so you'd probably be looking at $3 or so for the parts, and $12 or so for the crimping tool, plus shipping.... plus the power cord wherever you get it from.
Awesome, thanks. I was hoping I could just slide them out with a cocktail stick or something. Great videos by the way. Such a great variety and great that you replied so fast. :)
Love these repair videos.
Thanks Twitch, we'll see you on the next one!
I have one of these in my shop right now. The picture is jumping side to side. No pattern it's jumping like crazy at different levels. I've replaced the HV diode off the flyback anode lead twice. It stopped the first time I replaced it but came back after a couple of months. There is no arcing, jump jumping. I scoped the X and Y videos and scoped them to x-y on the scope and it's not jumping out of the game board. If you have any ideas I'd love to hear them. If there's any way I could speak to you that'd work too.
Impossible to decipher the date codes on Richey caps. They do use date codes but they aren't the typical 4 digit date codes. They are 5 digits which includes an alphanumeric character. The five characters appear random but they factor in the month, year, phase of moon and how many licks it takes to get to the center of a Tootsie Roll Tootsie Pop. They then raise each number to the power of pi and use the 2nd to the last digit as part of the date code. For example - caps I have now say "J1785". Decyphering the date code says December, 2019 for date of manufacture (they give month, not week), the moon was in the phase of "Waning Gibbous" (December 18th) and it took 3 licks that day.
They must just keep them in a big book somewhere, LOL
Get your own inexpensive Logic Probe here, along with our other parts and merchandise: www.lyonsarcade.com/parts.html
New power cord now fitted to my cocktail asteroids..
Now we have a new interesting problem. When the saucers appear, they don't make the warning noise that usually lets you know they are around. They still make the shooting noise, but the high or low pitch warbling is missing. Any idea where those sounds are stored? I heard it doesn't have a sound chip as such, so just wondering where that may be stored on the PCB chips
Sure, if you look @ the schematics : arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arcade_Atari_Kee/Asteroids_Cocktail/Asteroids_Cocktail_DP-150-2nd-02B.pdf
If I was going to guess I'd say the 555 time at r10.... they're known for going bad.
Feel free to delete this, but here's a quick video I took just now.
th-cam.com/video/mO6XD-pOThE/w-d-xo.html
Hmm. The 566 and the 555..
Found them at r10 and p10.
I'll let you know when it's fixed. Thanks again
Love all the videos! Wondering if you can help. I want to replace both pot's (contrast and brightness) on an Asteroids upright. What would be my plan of attack? Do I need to discharge the monitor? Where can I get quality parts? Thanks in advance.
When you test big blue, is the power cord plugged in or not plugged in? Thanks.
Great work
How do u adjust the power supply on those old power supplys to have at 5v
JOES CLASSIC, any reasons why Atari uses half wave rectifying and not full wave rectifying in the Atari power supply?
Alright friend. Have the smaller version with the 15in screen. I have an image and the game plays but it’s 1/2 the screen vertically?
Adjustable on the board? X Y?
Any tips appreciated.
Haven’t cracked it open just yet. It’s just been sitting.
Waiting.
Halp?
The connections on the deflection board need to be resoldered, the solder cracks and you lose half the deflection like that.
@@LyonsArcade
You’re amazing. Thank you.
Appreciate what you do endlessly. Love your work and the vids!
@@drewd1726 Thanks Drew!
Is that new capacitor 1998 week 25 (9825)? New old stock possibly?
You would think that, but there are different ways of doing the code, that particular one was bought from Great Plains Electronics and he always has fresh stuff.... but it sure looks like 98 to me :) I think the "I" in front of it is a month code and that's a different code system. I'm looking at some other Richey capacitors I have here and they've got several different date codes stamped on them, all with a letter first and then 3 or 4 numbers after so I think it's probably a combination of a month, then 1 year number, then a lot code or something.
I saw a post online from GPE from early 2010 saying they had just ordered a bunch of 'big blue' capacitors... so I'll bet this one is from that lot, likely made in 2009.
@@LyonsArcade Yes date codes can be confusing. Even a new '98 capacitior is likely to be somewhat better than a very used '79 unit. You would like to think so anyway. Great videos :-)
Nope -- although that is commonly how date codes work, that is not how Richey does theirs.
Richey uses a secret decoder ring and the phase of the moon for their date codes. I asked my rep at Richey how to decipher the date codes, they wouldn't tell me. But if you gave the the marking (with the alpha character) - they could tell you over the phone when it was made. An example of their date code from a batch that was made in December of 2019 = J1785. Certainly not made in 85th week of 2017. Note, seldom are any of these Big Blue caps are over one year old when sold and never had a batch last to two years. I typically order a new batch of these every year. -- Ed (GPE)
JOE CLASSIC GAMES, why do most arcade games power supplies use only One filter capacitor at such a very large capacitance at 27,000uf microfarad? This is not common in power supplies for other applications which use multiple filter caps, but why 27,000uf for what reasons to filter out what?
I'm not sure why Bill, that's a good question. This particular capacitor is on the 10.6vdc line, which goes off this power supply to the regulator board and gets turned into 5volts.
@@LyonsArcade do you think its for the audio board that needs to draw a lot of current from the power supply when it makes the sub frequencies lower frequencies sound effects need more current from the power supply?
That very well could be, yes!
I'm getting some crazy readings from my power brick (Asteroids Deluxe). The ground pins 4 and 5 are not working (when I use them as a ground with my multimeter). My 10.6 readings for pins 1-3 start out at 30+ then slowly trickle down to about 18.0. Pins 6 and 7 should be 36 volts AC, I get 20.3 and 13.3. Pins 8 and 9 I get 2.6 and 0.3 instead of 6.1. Pins 10-15 are supposed to be 60 volts. I get 22.4, 1.0, 24.1, 8.5, 12.7 and 33.9. Any ideas???
I would suspect your multimeter is a cheapo, sometimes they'll give you crazy readings like that if the battery is dying.
@@LyonsArcade I thought the same, put new Duracells to replace the cheapo batteries it came with (it's the blue Centech you get from Harbor Freight). I got the same exact readings afterwards...Change the Big Blue???
Do you have a computer board for this game you'd sell or do you repair them
Nice work 😎
Thank you Danijel!
I got 13.41v from the brick to power supply does that mean I need a new blue?
No you're good.
Lost the pics, coming soon!
It's like Christine. 🤣👍🎞🎬
Great video as always Joe!
Btw, what's a reasonable price for an Asteroids in decent shape?
I think the last one we had was $1299, but it had been completely reworked.
@@LyonsArcade Sounds good. Appreciate the info. 👍
Best ARCADE
Yes Wilder, We Agree!
The red in the artwork is still good.
That is nice !
Yes, it was in remarkably good shape.