I took at stab at this last night and this video was extremely helpful to get through this mess. Both the “second most difficult” and “most difficult” are complete pain. It took me 1 hour to replace the passenger side and it took me more than 3 hours to do the driver side. Below are couple of things I did differently and I thought I can at least share this with others who will attempt this job. 1. After removing ignition coils but before removing spark plugs I used compressed air to blow any debris out from the spark plug cavity. For most part the cavities very extremely clean so ignition coils gaskets are doing really good job keep dirt out. 2. After removing spark plugs I used shop vac with a ½ inch flexible tube to suck out any rust/oxidation from the cavities. Interestingly there was a lot of it. My spark plugs were seriously oxidized and a lot of this stuff was left in the cavity. NGK says to clean the treads of the cylinder cover but I have no clue how one would do it without risking to drop anything into the hole. So, I did the second best thing and vacuumed the cavity. I used borescope to inspect all cavities prior to installing new spark plugs to make sure all is clean and ready. 3. I installed all spark plugs to Infiniti spec of 14 lb ft. NGK says for an Aluminum Cylinder head and 12 mm thread dia spark plug to use from 10.8 to 14.5 lb ft. NGK also says you should achieve at least ½ more turn after initial contact (hand tight) but no more than 2/3. I found it really difficult to get ½ turn. I was hitting 14 lb ft a little bit sooner and tried 4 different torque wrenches so I don’t think you can ever get full ½ turn without going way out of torque spec. (hint to check rotation is to put a blue masking tape on ratchet extension and make a little flag if you don’t have rotation indication on the torque wrench itself)…. Since we are on the torque specs its 62 in lb for the ignition coil 10 mm bolt. 4. So now to the driver side…I ended up removing the driver side wheel. You cannot really remove any ignition coils or spark plugs from there but it is way much easier to remove 3 connectors, all retaining clips that are difficult to access from the top, (note: to keep alive the “casualty” zip tie its much easier to remove the entire bracket from the wheel well side, 10 mm bolt, instead of fighting with the retaining clip, for this you will need flat head 10mm wrench with a ratcheting wheel, socket will not fit over the bolt because of a harness very close to the top of the bolt). Most importantly I put strong light there so I was able to see what was going on when I was trying to reach difficult locations with the rachets from the top. Removing the wheel will not help with the “second most difficult” at all. All this work needs to be done from the top. But removing the wheel will allow you to untie entire harness without any damage and more importantly will allow enough slack in the harness that you can do without swivels for the “most difficult one”. I am impressed how cbatilo used multiple swivels to break the spark plug loose. I had really hard time to do that. It was not enough torque in this awkward space. I did not use swivels but I did use a rachet with a swiveled head. This last spark plug is a real pain. It feels like Infinity intentionally put bunch of terminated zip ties with super sharp ends on the harness just to cut your hands when you try to take the “most difficult” out. An the end I was able to pull it out and put new one in with proper rotation and proper torque. I was able to put torque wrench on it but you will need every 3/8 size extension money can buy to align the head of the wrench just to get enough room for two clicks in this awkward space. In my opinion if you don’t remove the wheel, you cannot easily remove all retaining clips and brackets and you will not be able to put torque wrench to get a straight shot. And final note on the spark plug socket I got from Amazon. It was $15 and worth every penny. It is like it was just designed for QX80. Anything different, longer, shorter or wider would made it really difficult (model LEXIVON 9/16-Inch Spark Plug Swivel Socket, 3/8" Drive x 6" long). Thanks again to cbatilo for this video. This probably saved me hours to figure it all out.
This video is a life saver for me, a friend of mine just asked me to perform this task on their 2017 QX80...I know I can do it now that I have seen the process.Thanks a million!!!!!
Thank you for watching and awesome feedback… I have a brake job video as well. I hope you check it out. Infiniti QX80 Brake Pads How To Brake Job Step by Step - Detailed 4K DIY Brake JOB th-cam.com/video/eGwMvYPjQGY/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video cbatilo! Manage to complete this job. Ran into a couple issues. I would suggest to anyone planning to do this job to purchase coils and boots just in case. I bought my QX used and didnt know when the plugs were changed last. Three of my plug boots got stuck. They separated from the coil pack. I sprayed a bit of pb blaster down the center of the boot. Waited an hour, some medium tugging and viola. I took everything apart as you suggest. I managed to get the back one on the driver side out with a swivel joint, 6in and 9in wobble extension. Anti seize on the threads and dielectric grease in the boot so they won’t get stuck again and done! Thanks again for taking your time to make this video and help us diy-ers. Greatly appreciated!
Just as others have stated this video was a lifesaver and well worth the time. It helped me with a coil replacement job I guess I am in a wait and see mode to see if replacing the coils fixes the misfire problem. I’m trying to narrow it down I had the spark plugs replaced now the coils. If it still happens will check for vacuum leaks. And then ultimately fuel injectors. But I’m trying to do this easy cheap stuff first. Pep Boys wanted to charge me $2000 just for the coils themselves. They were quoted me $205 for the short coils and 275 for the long coil which makes no sense to me. I was able to get a pack of 8 for $120 on Amazon a they looked exactly the same and the reviews were good so hoping for the best. Infiniti wanted to charge me 1700 for parts and labor much less than Pep Boys. The labor rate they quoted me was about $184 an hour and about an hour and 40 which I feel is about accurate. It definitely is a bitch getting in there but if you have the right tools the swivels were definitely needed. Thank you so much for taking the time to do this and helping others. Stay well.
Infiniti master tech here. OE plugs are about $200ish and we charge $155 an hour at 2.0hrs to replace plugs. Big mistake going with Amazon coils unless you know for sure they are factory coils. If you have misfires in the future be sure to relay that information
@@hawkman8835 Hey hawkman I could sure use some sage advice from someone that's looked these rigs in the eye far more than myself. Recently changed my hpfp solely because I got really nervous when my bud lost his hpfp and lifter bucket, cam lobe (you know that scene). I checked my oil and the level on the stick was somewhat high and the fuel smelled strong of fuel, seemed diluted. I had the new pump in hand so I went after it, then changed the oil and man it was stout smelling. I assume the pump was failing and this morning I had time to scan and found P0087 code pending (didn't think to scan prior -damned driveway rookies!). Anyway, I also found 1ea misfires on a few cyls since the last scan in JAN (JAN scan had zero). That troubles me. I've run several cycles and get 1ea misfire on random cyls, nothing consistent. What say ye?
@@FikeMoster a random misfire here and there is nothing to worry about. Consistent misfire counts on one or more cylinders indicate a potential ignition, injection or compression issue. Dirty maf sensors are a common cause of lean conditions and misfires on qx80. Good fuel trims are within the 90-110% range with 100% being perfect. The p0087 sets when fuel pressure is low (like during a HP fuel pump replacement) and not primed during startup. Most notable by the extended crank during initial startup.
@@hawkman8835 man that's helpful information, thank you for taking time to reply. I'd bet that code set either when we were literally running on fumes (DTE went blank, lol) coming home from Pensacola or like you said, when it 1st cranked after installing the new pump (bone dry). My wife says she feels like it "starts up faster" with the new pump. It's her daily and she pays attention. Hit the MAF again a few more shots of MAF cleaner? Also, plugs haven't (yet) been changed and there's 105k on the clock, I have a set and perhaps that'll add some "anti-misfire insurance"? Maybe I can forward my scan reports (or have you instruct my method of gathering data) and contribute back in some appropriate manner. We want to keep this truck and I really belive they can go the distance with the right attention to details.
Excellent, informative and complete. Thanks a lot for spending time to educate the rest of us. BTW Its funny to see the glove shredded into pieces at the end of the video. This tells me there will be some serious wrestling with the two on the right side.
If you can do that, you can do the starter motor. ( It is located in the "valley", BENEATH the intake manifold ala CADILLAC NORTHSTAR. ) Take your time...2hrs. Easy-peezy.
My pops was a craftsman guy… but with time, it seems Craftsman of then is not what it is now. I still would buy them for brand faithful… but will not shy on buying kobalt if it is on sale. Snap on was and is still a brand I would like to get my hands on. And occasion, will buy Harbor Freight tools too. Thanks for watching and question
Thanks for the video!! Is there any truth to taking the front wheels off? Would taking the front wheels off make it easier to get to the hard to reach plugs?
It make sense… putting car on a lift has it’s advantages… I personally have not done it that way… no tires and working under the car pose additional danger… if you try, make sure your car is on a level ground with all extra jack stands… it is worth looking at… good luck with the project
Don't know what year your QX80 is, but my 2017 Titan looks the same. I had trouble finding 2nd generation Nisan Titan spark plug change. Tons of 1st gen videos. I did them yesterday before seeing your video and I did a lot of the same removal of clips to try and get things out of the way. Some of the clips are now destroyed, but it seems like the wires aren't moving anyway. I also removed the air filter box to help with the drivers side.
No Anti-Seize applied to the spark plug threads? Shouldn't you first blow out the spark plug passage to remove any debris prior to unscrewing the spark plug after pulling out the ignition coil?
Pretty-much the same. The model designation changed in MY 2011 from 56 to 80. Other than that, Direct Fuel Injection is the bigg diff. ( Its UNDER the intake manifold, along with the starter motor. )
I took at stab at this last night and this video was extremely helpful to get through this mess. Both the “second most difficult” and “most difficult” are complete pain. It took me 1 hour to replace the passenger side and it took me more than 3 hours to do the driver side. Below are couple of things I did differently and I thought I can at least share this with others who will attempt this job.
1. After removing ignition coils but before removing spark plugs I used compressed air to blow any debris out from the spark plug cavity. For most part the cavities very extremely clean so ignition coils gaskets are doing really good job keep dirt out.
2. After removing spark plugs I used shop vac with a ½ inch flexible tube to suck out any rust/oxidation from the cavities. Interestingly there was a lot of it. My spark plugs were seriously oxidized and a lot of this stuff was left in the cavity. NGK says to clean the treads of the cylinder cover but I have no clue how one would do it without risking to drop anything into the hole. So, I did the second best thing and vacuumed the cavity. I used borescope to inspect all cavities prior to installing new spark plugs to make sure all is clean and ready.
3. I installed all spark plugs to Infiniti spec of 14 lb ft. NGK says for an Aluminum Cylinder head and 12 mm thread dia spark plug to use from 10.8 to 14.5 lb ft. NGK also says you should achieve at least ½ more turn after initial contact (hand tight) but no more than 2/3. I found it really difficult to get ½ turn. I was hitting 14 lb ft a little bit sooner and tried 4 different torque wrenches so I don’t think you can ever get full ½ turn without going way out of torque spec. (hint to check rotation is to put a blue masking tape on ratchet extension and make a little flag if you don’t have rotation indication on the torque wrench itself)…. Since we are on the torque specs its 62 in lb for the ignition coil 10 mm bolt.
4. So now to the driver side…I ended up removing the driver side wheel. You cannot really remove any ignition coils or spark plugs from there but it is way much easier to remove 3 connectors, all retaining clips that are difficult to access from the top, (note: to keep alive the “casualty” zip tie its much easier to remove the entire bracket from the wheel well side, 10 mm bolt, instead of fighting with the retaining clip, for this you will need flat head 10mm wrench with a ratcheting wheel, socket will not fit over the bolt because of a harness very close to the top of the bolt). Most importantly I put strong light there so I was able to see what was going on when I was trying to reach difficult locations with the rachets from the top. Removing the wheel will not help with the “second most difficult” at all. All this work needs to be done from the top. But removing the wheel will allow you to untie entire harness without any damage and more importantly will allow enough slack in the harness that you can do without swivels for the “most difficult one”. I am impressed how cbatilo used multiple swivels to break the spark plug loose. I had really hard time to do that. It was not enough torque in this awkward space. I did not use swivels but I did use a rachet with a swiveled head. This last spark plug is a real pain. It feels like Infinity intentionally put bunch of terminated zip ties with super sharp ends on the harness just to cut your hands when you try to take the “most difficult” out. An the end I was able to pull it out and put new one in with proper rotation and proper torque. I was able to put torque wrench on it but you will need every 3/8 size extension money can buy to align the head of the wrench just to get enough room for two clicks in this awkward space. In my opinion if you don’t remove the wheel, you cannot easily remove all retaining clips and brackets and you will not be able to put torque wrench to get a straight shot. And final note on the spark plug socket I got from Amazon. It was $15 and worth every penny. It is like it was just designed for QX80. Anything different, longer, shorter or wider would made it really difficult (model LEXIVON 9/16-Inch Spark Plug Swivel Socket, 3/8" Drive x 6" long).
Thanks again to cbatilo for this video. This probably saved me hours to figure it all out.
Thank you for this valuable info
Thanks
I have a 2019 nv3500 and this video helped with accessing the driver’s side plugs. Thanks alot.
This video is a life saver for me, a friend of mine just asked me to perform this task on their 2017 QX80...I know I can do it now that I have seen the process.Thanks a million!!!!!
Thank you for watching and awesome feedback… I have a brake job video as well. I hope you check it out. Infiniti QX80 Brake Pads How To Brake Job Step by Step - Detailed 4K DIY Brake JOB
th-cam.com/video/eGwMvYPjQGY/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video cbatilo! Manage to complete this job. Ran into a couple issues. I would suggest to anyone planning to do this job to purchase coils and boots just in case. I bought my QX used and didnt know when the plugs were changed last. Three of my plug boots got stuck. They separated from the coil pack. I sprayed a bit of pb blaster down the center of the boot. Waited an hour, some medium tugging and viola. I took everything apart as you suggest. I managed to get the back one on the driver side out with a swivel joint, 6in and 9in wobble extension. Anti seize on the threads and dielectric grease in the boot so they won’t get stuck again and done! Thanks again for taking your time to make this video and help us diy-ers. Greatly appreciated!
That was a struggle, but it was worth the experience and the savings! Good job! Thanks👍
Just as others have stated this video was a lifesaver and well worth the time. It helped me with a coil replacement job I guess I am in a wait and see mode to see if replacing the coils fixes the misfire problem. I’m trying to narrow it down I had the spark plugs replaced now the coils. If it still happens will check for vacuum leaks. And then ultimately fuel injectors. But I’m trying to do this easy cheap stuff first. Pep Boys wanted to charge me $2000 just for the coils themselves. They were quoted me $205 for the short coils and 275 for the long coil which makes no sense to me. I was able to get a pack of 8 for $120 on Amazon a they looked exactly the same and the reviews were good so hoping for the best. Infiniti wanted to charge me 1700 for parts and labor much less than Pep Boys. The labor rate they quoted me was about $184 an hour and about an hour and 40 which I feel is about accurate. It definitely is a bitch getting in there but if you have the right tools the swivels were definitely needed. Thank you so much for taking the time to do this and helping others. Stay well.
🤣🤣🤣
Infiniti master tech here. OE plugs are about $200ish and we charge $155 an hour at 2.0hrs to replace plugs. Big mistake going with Amazon coils unless you know for sure they are factory coils. If you have misfires in the future be sure to relay that information
@@hawkman8835 Hey hawkman I could sure use some sage advice from someone that's looked these rigs in the eye far more than myself. Recently changed my hpfp solely because I got really nervous when my bud lost his hpfp and lifter bucket, cam lobe (you know that scene). I checked my oil and the level on the stick was somewhat high and the fuel smelled strong of fuel, seemed diluted. I had the new pump in hand so I went after it, then changed the oil and man it was stout smelling. I assume the pump was failing and this morning I had time to scan and found P0087 code pending (didn't think to scan prior -damned driveway rookies!). Anyway, I also found 1ea misfires on a few cyls since the last scan in JAN (JAN scan had zero).
That troubles me. I've run several cycles and get 1ea misfire on random cyls, nothing consistent. What say ye?
@@FikeMoster a random misfire here and there is nothing to worry about. Consistent misfire counts on one or more cylinders indicate a potential ignition, injection or compression issue. Dirty maf sensors are a common cause of lean conditions and misfires on qx80. Good fuel trims are within the 90-110% range with 100% being perfect. The p0087 sets when fuel pressure is low (like during a HP fuel pump replacement) and not primed during startup. Most notable by the extended crank during initial startup.
@@hawkman8835 man that's helpful information, thank you for taking time to reply. I'd bet that code set either when we were literally running on fumes (DTE went blank, lol) coming home from Pensacola or like you said, when it 1st cranked after installing the new pump (bone dry). My wife says she feels like it "starts up faster" with the new pump. It's her daily and she pays attention. Hit the MAF again a few more shots of MAF cleaner? Also, plugs haven't (yet) been changed and there's 105k on the clock, I have a set and perhaps that'll add some "anti-misfire insurance"? Maybe I can forward my scan reports (or have you instruct my method of gathering data) and contribute back in some appropriate manner. We want to keep this truck and I really belive they can go the distance with the right attention to details.
Excellent, informative and complete. Thanks a lot for spending time to educate the rest of us. BTW Its funny to see the glove shredded into pieces at the end of the video. This tells me there will be some serious wrestling with the two on the right side.
I’ll be working on this repair this weekend. Thanks for the help.
Great quality video, very impressed on well you show the process
Great work and video! I planned to do this coming weekend and this was a great help!
You’re awesome! Thank you for the great details and getting the camera so we can see all those hard places!!!
Thank you very much for watching and for the awesome feedback. Really great to hear the video helped
@@cbatilo I assume you are local to NJ, may be I can hire your service if possible.
Thanks for making this video. I plan on doing this myself the dealership wants $900 bucs to replace all of them
If you can do that, you can do the starter motor. ( It is located in the "valley", BENEATH the intake manifold ala CADILLAC NORTHSTAR. )
Take your time...2hrs. Easy-peezy.
I did this other day, sparkplugs - it was easier from sides, took front tires off and it was a lot easier from sides
Awesome tip! Thank you very much
Easier to change all??
That’s what I did and I thought it was pretty easy…I did all mine through the wheel wells.
@spectatordragsusa7922 what year of vehicle? I have a 19 titan. Same engine
i need to do this soon on my Armada. Thanks!
Thank you i learned so much
Maybe a weird question but do you have a particular brand of tool you like for infinit, ie. Craftsman or kobalt ,gear wrench, etc for socket wrench
My pops was a craftsman guy… but with time, it seems Craftsman of then is not what it is now. I still would buy them for brand faithful… but will not shy on buying kobalt if it is on sale. Snap on was and is still a brand I would like to get my hands on. And occasion, will buy Harbor Freight tools too. Thanks for watching and question
Thanks for the video!! Is there any truth to taking the front wheels off? Would taking the front wheels off make it easier to get to the hard to reach plugs?
It make sense… putting car on a lift has it’s advantages… I personally have not done it that way… no tires and working under the car pose additional danger… if you try, make sure your car is on a level ground with all extra jack stands… it is worth looking at… good luck with the project
Almost certainly. I am planning on trying that method in 10K more miles.
I just did frnt brakes and turned rotors at 90K mi.
@@cbatilo JACK STANDS, WOOD BLOCK WHEEL CHOCKS & FLOOR JACK.
Very helpful thanks
Don't know what year your QX80 is, but my 2017 Titan looks the same. I had trouble finding 2nd generation Nisan Titan spark plug change. Tons of 1st gen videos. I did them yesterday before seeing your video and I did a lot of the same removal of clips to try and get things out of the way. Some of the clips are now destroyed, but it seems like the wires aren't moving anyway. I also removed the air filter box to help with the drivers side.
My 19 titan engine is the same. This is the only video I found.
Air filter box removal difficult?
Did it help?
Doesn't look like a bad install at all compared to when I had to change the plus on my Town and Country.
Nice jacket! Shame your using it for mechanic work, great video!
hi what's the torque spec on the plugs ?
No Anti-Seize applied to the spark plug threads?
Shouldn't you first blow out the spark plug passage to remove any debris prior to unscrewing the spark plug after pulling out the ignition coil?
NGK does NOT recommend or require antisieze. On these plugs.
Is it the same for the QX56?
Yes it is
Thank you very much for watching
Pretty-much the same. The model designation changed in MY 2011 from 56 to 80.
Other than that, Direct Fuel Injection is the bigg diff. ( Its UNDER the intake manifold, along with the starter motor. )
What year vehicle?
Where is the fuel filter located at?
Gracias amigo, you need a corona beer 🍺
By the way, what year is this QX80?
2015
Nice video, fuckin dealer asked me $700 for the job
Mines sez $860.
I called my dealership, their service menu quoted $856 for repl. sprk plugs. gee.