To all using the v2.69 PCB, be carefull as the temperature sensor was rotated... Took some time finding the issue, since I was referring to this video for orientation of components. Luckily, no other components are burned, other than the temperature sensor.
Looks good, man. Congrats! For those who think all this filing is not necessary, I'm telling you, having a sled that fits perfectly into the petling with no wiggle room is a MUST. And it must fit exactly the same way if you take it out and put it back in. Any deviation can shift the gyro reading from your initial calibrations. Saw it a bunch with each of mine and had to add layers to my edges to get a snug and consistent fit. This is the best solution I've seen to this issue. Nice work!
Well said. Yes, I also believe that the gyroscope is very sensitive and any shifting inside the pelting is a very bad thing. You can always add a bit of epoxy putty to the PCB and file that down to get a snug fit if you are using a different PCB. Thanks for your kind words :) Cheers, Joey Joe Joe Jr.
Thanks for this video! I just put together two ispindels using this guide. First time using a soldering iron! Both seemed to turn out okay! will be ordering parts to finish the other 3 PCBS too
Great work, I really can't say that enough. You seem to have fixed every problem with the original, as well as going much further and improving it. The only thing I would question is the precise fitting into the shell instead of using compressive bushings or similar. This is pretty standard for mass production as it allows a bit of play in sizing, as well as providing an impact buffer for the electronics. If the board had the right pegs on it you could maybe use grommets, earplugs or something else readily available. Great work, keep it up!
When the pins for the battery first is soldered, it is soldered on the side that has "off" and "reset" printed on it, later in the video, the pins seems to be on that side and the solder on the other side. Which one is correct! :(
I would like to do something like that as I am currently looking for more information regarding how my keezer is handling the fermenter that lives outside of the keezer. Unfortunately, I don't have room for a dedicated fermentation fridge right now. Check out the link below to see how I've been trying to work around this. th-cam.com/video/UdBm4eWGjWY/w-d-xo.html
Can you make a video on how to calibrate the ispindel for sugar wash use ie. SG1200 cause I see a lot of SG1085 but we use a lot more sugar than beer brewers.....
I've got all of the components on the way. Just need to order the PCBs, but I've never used pcbway before. Do I just use the link from your site and order, leaving the options as is?
Hello, Great Videos and an awesome job explaining everything. I am about to order 5 of your boards. I can not figure out if I can order 5 different colors or if I have to order 5 of the same color. Could you please let me know if I just don't know how to use the PCBWay site or if I have to get 5 of the same color. Thank you.
I'm wondering why you mount the gyro elevated. If the goal is to get it horizontal to the PCB, why not mount it against the PCB? Am I missing something?
The iSpindels don't always float level compared to the PCB. Installing elevated allows you to bend the pins to align the gryo's breakout board with the water level (in one direction). Does it matter? I don't know as I haven't done the comparison, but typically more options are better than fewer options.
Thank you for this and other vids on the iSpindel!! I just built my first one, using the Jeffrey 2.0, and much to my surprise...it works!!! Two quick questions I hope you, or others, can help with. Is there a way to calibrate the temp sensor? It's about six degrees f off. (No I'm saying f-off :) ) And when I have it plugged in to charge, it is still charging (red light still on) even though it's showing 4.3 volts on the ISpindel info page. (No it's not plugged in while it's turned on) Any help would be much appreciated.
The temp probe isn't actually used by the iSpindel itself (at least not right now). So any temp corrected specific gravity readings need to be done outside the iSpindel, like on Ubidots for example. The same goes for temp probe calibration, right now that would need to be done outside of the iSpindel too (Ubidots allows you to make a formula and plus/minus a calibration value against the temp probe reading). As for the 4.3 volts for the battery, sounds like you already measured it with a multimeter to confirm the voltage. I haven't had issues with the battery charger before so I suppose I would suggest replacing the TP4056 breakout board.
@@OpenSourceDistilling thank you for the reply. The charging light finally turned blue @ 4.33 volts. So it appears to be working. I built another one and it is working as well. Have parts for two more so I can sell on Ebay and recoup my money.
You connect them with something metal, like the end of a pen, 2 or 3 times to get the iSpindel into configuration mode or 1 time to reset the device. This enables you to configure and reset the device without having to take the electronics out of the petling (tube). You typically don't want to disturb the electronics after calibration. Thanks for watching!
Hi, nice job. Thanks for sharing this. I have problems to get that pet tube in Mexico, do you think another type of bottle or even 3d print my own tube can work?
I believe this seller ships worldwide (link below). I'm currently trying to work with someone in Canada to try and get tubes that can ship from North America instead of Europe. Not sure of other alternatives right now. rover.ebay.com/rover/1/706-53473-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5575426965&toolid=10001&campid=5338617451&customid=&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.ca%2Fitm%2F5-XL-BIG-PET-Micro-Geocaching-container-geocache-Petling-preform-soda-bottle%2F132379354446%3FssPageName%3DSTRK%253AMEBIDX%253AIT%26_trksid%3Dp2060353.m2749.l2649
I haven't done it but I found posts saying that v1, v2, or v3 will work. With v1 and v2 (or certain v3 knockoffs) the USB is facing down on The Jeffrey PCB. In that case, you need to elevate the USB side of the D1 mini a little to allow the USB plug enough room to plug in after assembly. I suppose you would need to ensure there is enough room on the D1 mini file system for the firmware. Thanks for watching!
DS18B20 location under the battery is dangerous. It's spikes can pierce battery's skin and cause short circuit. Luckily current go trough tp4056 which has short-circuit protection.
I've built many and never had any issues. But yes, you'll need to file and/or cut the 'spikes' if you don't solder them flat enough. I've built more than 10 iSpindels and not one of them has ever pierced or even scratch the battery's skin. These batteries hold lots of power and must be respected!
@@OpenSourceDistilling I totally agree, those batteries have a lot of energy. I built five pieces and two pieces had that problem. In my case, the DS18B20 data pin pierced the battery's skin. Here is a picture of it: imgur.com/a/Z5olsN3. This is most likely what can happen because that pin is in the middle. My fix is going to be that I resolder those pins and try make them flat as possible and then I add some insulating tape between pins and battery. Btw, I really like what you have done and I want to thank you for your hard work.
Thanks for watching, and thanks for sharing. I found that putting a little masking tape of the battery side then soldering the temp probe from the top results in a really flat solder. I will demo this in an upcoming video. Cheers!
The petlings I recommend are the ones on my shopping list. Below are the listed dimensions from the seller. Dimensions (external, MAX), mm ~135 x (d39, d43 MAX) Dimensions (internal), mm ~123 x d33 Others have bought from other sources that are slightly longer and narrower. You may be able to get it to work but you may have to file things down more and extend other things with epoxy putty. The petlings I have aren't exactly uniform on the inside. Good luck and thanks for watching! Sincerely, Joey Joe Joe Jr.
Hey Andy, Yes the TP4056 will heat up during charging. I have never actually felt it but will give it a try soon. But it is normal for them to heat up during the charge. Thanks for watching!
My understanding is there is no direct contact with the PCB finish, or the solder points, with the outer pelting so it should be safe. The lead would have to leech through the air then the pelting and I believe that isn't possible unless the lead is vaporized. It's pretty hard to vaporize lead as you need to heat it to 1750 Celsius. I think people have varying opinions when it comes to lead. I don't recommend you put lead weights in there but I personally think solder and PCB finish is okay in this situation since there is no direct contact between the pelting and the PCB finish/solder points. Remember to wash your hands after PCB assembly. If you think differently please let me know. I'm always interested to know other opinions. If it concerns you can order lead free coating on the PCB and I know that lead free solder exists for electronic applications. I think you need more head to heat the solder and I believe that lead-free options cost a few more bucks. I also believe lead-free solder eats up the tip of your soldering iron quicker.
Hey joey do you have the parts list by chance I’ve got to get mine finished up thanks for the info glad to get a video from you man hope as all well Yeehaw!!!🤙. Never mind I found them in the link
Hey there. I have recently purchased all the components in your list, and went through your build process. After flashing the boards on 2 units successfully, I cannot connect to them with WiFi. I have tried multiple phones and computers. One computer won’t even see the ispindel, the others say they can’t connect to the WiFi ispindel. Any thoughts? There is a post on Homebrewtalk with the same problem, but no resolve. Thanks.
Hey Derek, sorry things aren't going perfect. The best tool to diagnose will be the serial monitor output from the D1 mini and posting/searching the official GitHub page where they develop the software. My next video will be about running the serial monitor to get more insight into why some iSpindels aren't working. I believe others have had this issue posted on GitHub as well github.com/universam1/iSpindel/issues
Did you figure out the smoke issue? I put mine together and got the same thing...the chip on the "OUT -" side of the breakout board was extremely hot. Also for some reason B+ and OUT+ pins are short circuit. Is this normal? Solder looks separate.
I couldn't figure out what a pelting was. Searching more broadly I found that you are spelling and pronouncing it wrong. It's petling, not pelting. Love the idea of a DIY one though. The commercial ones are $$$!!! May have to make a couple as I get more into brewing.
OMG, you are totally right. I read it wrong then pronounced it wrong. Thanks for pointing that out. I will call attention to that in future iSpindel videos. Thx again!
To all using the v2.69 PCB, be carefull as the temperature sensor was rotated...
Took some time finding the issue, since I was referring to this video for orientation of components. Luckily, no other components are burned, other than the temperature sensor.
Looks good, man. Congrats! For those who think all this filing is not necessary, I'm telling you, having a sled that fits perfectly into the petling with no wiggle room is a MUST. And it must fit exactly the same way if you take it out and put it back in. Any deviation can shift the gyro reading from your initial calibrations. Saw it a bunch with each of mine and had to add layers to my edges to get a snug and consistent fit. This is the best solution I've seen to this issue. Nice work!
Well said. Yes, I also believe that the gyroscope is very sensitive and any shifting inside the pelting is a very bad thing. You can always add a bit of epoxy putty to the PCB and file that down to get a snug fit if you are using a different PCB. Thanks for your kind words :) Cheers, Joey Joe Joe Jr.
Thanks for this video! I just put together two ispindels using this guide. First time using a soldering iron! Both seemed to turn out okay! will be ordering parts to finish the other 3 PCBS too
Again, thanks for a excellent vid. This must be the most complete PCB so far! Congrats!
You bet!
Great work, I really can't say that enough. You seem to have fixed every problem with the original, as well as going much further and improving it.
The only thing I would question is the precise fitting into the shell instead of using compressive bushings or similar. This is pretty standard for mass production as it allows a bit of play in sizing, as well as providing an impact buffer for the electronics. If the board had the right pegs on it you could maybe use grommets, earplugs or something else readily available.
Great work, keep it up!
Great job. ordered the circuitboards yesterday.
Awesome! Thank you!
When the pins for the battery first is soldered, it is soldered on the side that has "off" and "reset" printed on it, later in the video, the pins seems to be on that side and the solder on the other side. Which one is correct! :(
This is GREAT!!!! Can you please do a brewpiless build and then how to use them together. PLEASE!!!
Absolute legend! Thanks
I would like to do something like that as I am currently looking for more information regarding how my keezer is handling the fermenter that lives outside of the keezer. Unfortunately, I don't have room for a dedicated fermentation fridge right now. Check out the link below to see how I've been trying to work around this.
th-cam.com/video/UdBm4eWGjWY/w-d-xo.html
Can you make a video on how to calibrate the ispindel for sugar wash use ie. SG1200 cause I see a lot of SG1085 but we use a lot more sugar than beer brewers.....
I've got all of the components on the way. Just need to order the PCBs, but I've never used pcbway before. Do I just use the link from your site and order, leaving the options as is?
Hello, Great Videos and an awesome job explaining everything. I am about to order 5 of your boards. I can not figure out if I can order 5 different colors or if I have to order 5 of the same color. Could you please let me know if I just don't know how to use the PCBWay site or if I have to get 5 of the same color. Thank you.
I'm wondering why you mount the gyro elevated. If the goal is to get it horizontal to the PCB, why not mount it against the PCB? Am I missing something?
The iSpindels don't always float level compared to the PCB. Installing elevated allows you to bend the pins to align the gryo's breakout board with the water level (in one direction). Does it matter? I don't know as I haven't done the comparison, but typically more options are better than fewer options.
Thank you for this and other vids on the iSpindel!! I just built my first one, using the Jeffrey 2.0, and much to my surprise...it works!!! Two quick questions I hope you, or others, can help with. Is there a way to calibrate the temp sensor? It's about six degrees f off. (No I'm saying f-off :) ) And when I have it plugged in to charge, it is still charging (red light still on) even though it's showing 4.3 volts on the ISpindel info page. (No it's not plugged in while it's turned on) Any help would be much appreciated.
The temp probe isn't actually used by the iSpindel itself (at least not right now). So any temp corrected specific gravity readings need to be done outside the iSpindel, like on Ubidots for example. The same goes for temp probe calibration, right now that would need to be done outside of the iSpindel too (Ubidots allows you to make a formula and plus/minus a calibration value against the temp probe reading). As for the 4.3 volts for the battery, sounds like you already measured it with a multimeter to confirm the voltage. I haven't had issues with the battery charger before so I suppose I would suggest replacing the TP4056 breakout board.
@@OpenSourceDistilling thank you for the reply. The charging light finally turned blue @ 4.33 volts. So it appears to be working. I built another one and it is working as well. Have parts for two more so I can sell on Ebay and recoup my money.
Hi Joey, What are the 2 pins in the top corner labeled reset for?
You connect them with something metal, like the end of a pen, 2 or 3 times to get the iSpindel into configuration mode or 1 time to reset the device. This enables you to configure and reset the device without having to take the electronics out of the petling (tube). You typically don't want to disturb the electronics after calibration. Thanks for watching!
Hi, nice job. Thanks for sharing this. I have problems to get that pet tube in Mexico, do you think another type of bottle or even 3d print my own tube can work?
I believe this seller ships worldwide (link below). I'm currently trying to work with someone in Canada to try and get tubes that can ship from North America instead of Europe. Not sure of other alternatives right now.
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/706-53473-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5575426965&toolid=10001&campid=5338617451&customid=&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.ca%2Fitm%2F5-XL-BIG-PET-Micro-Geocaching-container-geocache-Petling-preform-soda-bottle%2F132379354446%3FssPageName%3DSTRK%253AMEBIDX%253AIT%26_trksid%3Dp2060353.m2749.l2649
Thanks really helpful can you use D1 mini v2 or does it have to be V3 ?
I haven't done it but I found posts saying that v1, v2, or v3 will work. With v1 and v2 (or certain v3 knockoffs) the USB is facing down on The Jeffrey PCB. In that case, you need to elevate the USB side of the D1 mini a little to allow the USB plug enough room to plug in after assembly. I suppose you would need to ensure there is enough room on the D1 mini file system for the firmware. Thanks for watching!
MY MAN! Love it!
I have TP4056 - 6 Pin but it's Input interface: Micro USB. Can I use it instead of the type-C USB?
DS18B20 location under the battery is dangerous. It's spikes can pierce battery's skin and cause short circuit. Luckily current go trough tp4056 which has short-circuit protection.
I've built many and never had any issues. But yes, you'll need to file and/or cut the 'spikes' if you don't solder them flat enough. I've built more than 10 iSpindels and not one of them has ever pierced or even scratch the battery's skin. These batteries hold lots of power and must be respected!
@@OpenSourceDistilling I totally agree, those batteries have a lot of energy. I built five pieces and two pieces had that problem. In my case, the DS18B20 data pin pierced the battery's skin. Here is a picture of it: imgur.com/a/Z5olsN3. This is most likely what can happen because that pin is in the middle. My fix is going to be that I resolder those pins and try make them flat as possible and then I add some insulating tape between pins and battery. Btw, I really like what you have done and I want to thank you for your hard work.
Thanks for watching, and thanks for sharing. I found that putting a little masking tape of the battery side then soldering the temp probe from the top results in a really flat solder. I will demo this in an upcoming video. Cheers!
Whats the size of the petling? I found some 130x33 mm. Is that it?
The petlings I recommend are the ones on my shopping list. Below are the listed dimensions from the seller.
Dimensions (external, MAX), mm ~135 x (d39, d43 MAX)
Dimensions (internal), mm ~123 x d33
Others have bought from other sources that are slightly longer and narrower. You may be able to get it to work but you may have to file things down more and extend other things with epoxy putty. The petlings I have aren't exactly uniform on the inside.
Good luck and thanks for watching!
Sincerely,
Joey Joe Joe Jr.
Great instruction, I have just built this. Is it normal for the charging board TP4056 to get very hot when on charge?
Hey Andy, Yes the TP4056 will heat up during charging. I have never actually felt it but will give it a try soon. But it is normal for them to heat up during the charge. Thanks for watching!
Joey...Question. I went to order some boards. Do you use with lead? Do I care in this application?
My understanding is there is no direct contact with the PCB finish, or the solder points, with the outer pelting so it should be safe. The lead would have to leech through the air then the pelting and I believe that isn't possible unless the lead is vaporized. It's pretty hard to vaporize lead as you need to heat it to 1750 Celsius. I think people have varying opinions when it comes to lead. I don't recommend you put lead weights in there but I personally think solder and PCB finish is okay in this situation since there is no direct contact between the pelting and the PCB finish/solder points. Remember to wash your hands after PCB assembly.
If you think differently please let me know. I'm always interested to know other opinions.
If it concerns you can order lead free coating on the PCB and I know that lead free solder exists for electronic applications. I think you need more head to heat the solder and I believe that lead-free options cost a few more bucks. I also believe lead-free solder eats up the tip of your soldering iron quicker.
@@OpenSourceDistilling I ordered the other day!! Keep safe! Where are you?
Hey joey do you have the parts list by chance I’ve got to get mine finished up thanks for the info glad to get a video from you man hope as all well Yeehaw!!!🤙. Never mind I found them in the link
Thanks for all your support Travis!
Open Source Distilling yes sir!!! Thank you for the good content, how the virus 🦠 down your way
Hey there. I have recently purchased all the components in your list, and went through your build process. After flashing the boards on 2 units successfully, I cannot connect to them with WiFi. I have tried multiple phones and computers. One computer won’t even see the ispindel, the others say they can’t connect to the WiFi ispindel. Any thoughts? There is a post on Homebrewtalk with the same problem, but no resolve. Thanks.
Hey Derek, sorry things aren't going perfect. The best tool to diagnose will be the serial monitor output from the D1 mini and posting/searching the official GitHub page where they develop the software. My next video will be about running the serial monitor to get more insight into why some iSpindels aren't working. I believe others have had this issue posted on GitHub as well github.com/universam1/iSpindel/issues
Did you figure out the smoke issue? I put mine together and got the same thing...the chip on the "OUT -" side of the breakout board was extremely hot. Also for some reason B+ and OUT+ pins are short circuit. Is this normal? Solder looks separate.
Answer was battery holder was soldered on backwards. Still worked after reversing it. All the magic smoke musn't have disappeared!
Sorry for the late response. I'm glad it all worked out!
I couldn't figure out what a pelting was. Searching more broadly I found that you are spelling and pronouncing it wrong. It's petling, not pelting. Love the idea of a DIY one though. The commercial ones are $$$!!! May have to make a couple as I get more into brewing.
OMG, you are totally right. I read it wrong then pronounced it wrong. Thanks for pointing that out. I will call attention to that in future iSpindel videos. Thx again!