Thanks man. I'm on a ship in the Congo, trying to help my engineer rebuild a Quincy Model 390. Yours is a different model but a lot of the same will still apply.
Been doing comp.repairs since 1974 started with quincy & atlas work on everything that makes air recip & rotarys the 325-6 is from 1968 with cone springs , newer ones use sprial spring , the 325 in the video is a -100 series
Awesome knowledge sir! Subbed!! I'm in the middle of my own big compressor problems... working it now. Seeing this project.... believe I must have a Quincy too. I'll verify this morning.i may have some questions for you soon.
These videos are great. I've got a 310-21 that I'm getting ready to rebuild myself. Mine also sounds like it's got a wrist pin loose. I'll be taking much longer to get mine done as this is my first one. I'm mechanically inclined but want to make sure I get this right. Thanks for putting these videos up.
Great work, no telling how many Quincy compressors have been saved from the scrap pile because of this video series. I jumped into Quincy compressor ownership/ restoration recently. Your videos gave me the confidence. Ended up with a 350, 308, and a 216. The 350 and 216 run great. The 308 ROC 2 has play on the high pressure rod bearing surface. Quincy quoted $600 for replacement rods. Quincy part number 1526. My question is, do you know much about these rod bearing inserts offered by pacific air compressors? No idea how often you monitor your channel comments, but I appreciate your contribution to the knowledge commons.
Yes on both counts LOL. The springs are the cone shaped ones. I haven't yet opened up the HP side. I have to fab up a tool. The other part is the oiler that screws into the crank closest to the oil pump. It seems someone has pulled it out and welded up the hole. The other one closest to the pully is fine. Wonder if I should drill it out or leave it alone. It was probably burning up HP rings so that was thier solution. Thanks for the help again!!
You were talking to the guy above about internal engine paint. The major brand is called Glyptal. Spray can or brush on, old school stuff for inside the engine, or compressor.
Dave, Thanks for all of the great videos. You have helped hundreds of people keep these great compressors alive and kicking. I have a 325-12 I am getting ready to overhaul. 1. Are the generic Chinese overhaul kits ok or should I stick with the Chinese ones Quincy sells? 2. How do you prep the intercooler for painting? 3. Which is better, beader or electrolysis tank for cleaning and will it hurt the cylinders? Dave I appreciate you! Thanks for any advice!
I wasn't aware that Quincy was offering Chinese replacement parts, the intercooler is just a copper tube with metal fins on it you can dam neer clean it anyway you want same way with that cylinder
Sorry, I probably shouldn't have worded it that way. You showed us that bearings and some other Quincy stuff was now made in China. I just wanted your opinion on the quality of the aftermarket Chinese overhaul kits.
it's actually an old practice that was used back when there was a problem with poris castings if you use the right type of primer it will stay intact for the life of the machine thanks for your comment Nicholas
Great job. Question: what is that coating you applied to the inside of the crankcase? Just regular primer? Will that hold up as it sees use? Would be terrible for it to peel off and sabotage your great work.
I'm wondering the same thing... What kind of primer was used inside the crankcase and why? My model 340 already has primer inside the crankcase. The existing paint is starting to fail, with a few pieces of paint flaking off here and there, so I intend to strip it all off and either repaint it or just go without.
Not sure haven't gotten that far yet. But it does have the brass acorn nut with holes in it on the unloader. I'm pretty sure it's obselete but was wondering if some of the newer parts still fit, like the valve washers, piston rings and front oil seal. Pretty sure the gaskets are the same, but I could be wrong.
I ordered some Timkin wheel bearings for a Dodge Ram that were make in Korea for a Japenese company named Koyo that makes super high quality bearings for Toyota and such.
Great work, i have also a 325 Compressor and a mistake.... wen the lubeoil its cold i get 22 Psi but wen its warm up i lose pressur to 10Psi and the hydraulic unloader blow up.... Inside is a Compressor oil ISO 68. I change the O-Ring from connection Pump to Crankshaft, filter, check oilpump and strainer everything looks good... maybe you have another idea? :)
I do have a question though. I have a 325-6 and the rear oil bung has been welded shut by the previous owner. Should I drill it back out, get a new insert or just leave it alone? I'm in the process of doing an overhaul on this unit. Also does Quincy have the springs for my valves? They have 4 smaller springs per valve on the LP side and do the new washers fit my pump? Thanks for the help and very informative videos.
Well Quincy is not Quincy any more. They have been sold a couple times since they were Quincy owned. Every time a company changes hand compromises are made. 40 plus years rebuilding compressors.
"Got the crankcase all primed up here" (at 3:05) What type of primer is that? Better yet, what type of primer won't flake off and cause problems later? You said "primered up" but didn't allude to what primer. I'm curious because I'm about to embark on my own rebuild. Thanks! Appreciate your help!
A lacquer based Primer that won’t get attacked by the lubricant some primers will wipe right off with mineral spirits and that’s the kind you don’t want an automotive type primer will work just fine
The hole in the crank leave the plug in it. Also it sounds like you got a obsolete pump or at least the valve are. On your compressor are the HP and LP valves the same size?
Hey bud... I know I asked before but I cannot recall and cannot seem to find the primer you suggested for inside the crankcase. You mentioned a "lacquer based" primer for auto body use.... But everything I see is "oil based" or is enamel or I am just not finding anything that says lacquer based..... Was it a spray can or brush on primer? I just want to make sure whatever I use inside holds up for years. Thanks man!!
It came in a spray can that I depressurize and put into a small container I would try to use the enamel based But test it first By painting a small test area on a piece of metal Let it dry for a couple of days and see if it will wipe off with mineral spirits or not If not your famous!
It wasn't a orifice it was called a spill valve it had a brass plunger and a spring.. The spill valve was supposed to unload the oil pump. Just one of those things that looked good on paper..the head gasket is different seal is the same LP valve disc should be the same but the springs won't work and Iam almost positive the HP valves are smaller and nothing is available:(
I used old school carburetor cleaner that you get from Napa in a 6 gallon container, The primer I used for the inside of the crank case was a lacquer based red automotive primer
ROTARYCOMPTECH thank you... I had another question I’m hoping you might know something about ....I pulled the valve covers off my Quincy 310-ROC-22/ Lincoln 9201 compressor pump and first question I have is why is my unloader tower shaped like a bell 🔔 and not like all the rest of the 310’s? I was going to order a valve repair kit but I noticed they all say 310-ROC-22 but my valves look nothing like those... I haven’t seen one video with anyone that has the same looking valves as mine, so it’s hard to do anything with without knowing how they work or where to get parts for it. 2 of the valves have a plate with 2 tiny holes in it and I’m stumped on how to get them out? Do I need special tools?the 2 valves I was able to get out look to be a solid piece of cast iron with plates on the bottom that are retained by a spring. Are these rebuildable? Or do I need to order new ones, because one of them has a rattle inside and no spring left tension left...I can’t see anyway these pull apart to get to the spring?...I’ve managed to only get the 2 out that don’t have the plates on top with the 2 holes on them... those are being held in by the plate or the threaded cylinder around it? I’m not sure. Any advice would be appreciated. And my last question is if I rebuild it can I use same piston and just hone and add new rings or do i need new piston as well? Sorry for the huge message but I have no information on this pump and watch your videos and you have extensive knowledge in this area. Any information would be appreciated. Thank you again.
@@vunit8223 Is the unloader that is shaped like a bell is it made out of brass? I didn't work on too many of the Quincy Model 310 compressors, It kind of sounds like you may have a old style obsolete pump But I think the head is the same as the newer style units, From what you're describing to me it sounds like the valves are stuck in the head and may need to be pounded out with a hammer and a drift, It would be helpful if you could possibly Upload a video of the compressor
ROTARYCOMPTECH yes, the bell shaped unloader tower is made of brass! For some reason I’ve looked everywhere online and can’t find 1 single other compressor that has that bell shaped brass valve cover..they all are equipped with the tower with a flat top and 6-8 bolts holding down a black leathery looking flap....Hmm, does that mean I have an older absolete valve cover/ pump? or a newer style cover? Do you think someone may have overhauled this pump sometime in the past and since it‘s an absolete pump they went ahead and replaced the old style absolete head with a newer style head??? The only problem with that theory is the unit as a whole looks to be all original....the paint on the head matches identically to the paint on the block. I will post a detailed video by 5pm today....thank you for your help.
Will post a detailed video tomorrow sometime. I don’t understand why my phone go’s halfway through the uploading and then says “upload error” I’ve been trying to figure it out. I already made the video it just won’t let me upload. But I’ll find a way...and thanks again for walking me through this! On another note I’m down to 3 valves I was able to extract! I only have the unloading tower left and it’s being stubborn as hell! But hopefully it’s nothing like that scorched high pressure valve, that sob was something else! And yes my valves are exactly as you described. Cast iron I believe, and the springs look as if they were either pressed in or casted inside the valve body because there is no visible signs of disassembly! I’ll keep you posted...thanks
No! This is not quality workmanship. There are some bad practice in this assembly. 1) He used a medal hammer when he should have used a wood ed block or wooden drift to put precision bearings, or parts in. 2) That 30w oil will not last for those bearings. They require grease, NOT OIL!! 2) You can heat up bearings, or you can just freeze the shaft with freeze spray.> IN MY OPINION. 3) When he hammered on that one bearing, he shoud have oil the shaft to ease getting the bearing on without requiring too much hammering, and marring the shaft's bearing surface. After seeing this video, I would not hire someone as a machinist, or millwright with these bad work practices > SORRY, JUST MY OPINION.
Mike Smith Here my opinion. 1) tapered roller bearings are not that precision in comparison to most but that doesn't mater as long as you only contact the inner race you can't damage the bearing 2) the bearings are lubricated with 30/w N/D oil just because their wheel bearings doesn't mean you grease them also the factory doesn't recommend grease 3) If you watch the video I did heat the bearings, one was tighter than the other and had to be taped on with a socket on the inner race grease or oil wouldn't have helped BTW you got two two's also what's the point of all this...Just a opinion . Theirs not a thing wrong with this rebuild.. And that's my opinion
What's all this? It' just my opinion. If you respected other people's opinion, you wouldn't be replying to my comment to this video. You gave yours, I gave mine. That's it.
Mike Smith I am replying to your comment on my video that's why I am commenting! The only problem your negative comments don't hold any waterthey're just your opinions on different techniques....Don't you have anything better to do, I mean really dude
@@MikeSmith-rn9rr You're being the jerk with the uncalled for opinion of negativity. This guy is giving up his time and knowledge to help hundreds, if not thousands of diy'ers. Crawl back into your self serving and self righteous hole and btw, have you watched all his video series on this? He plainly is a product expert and has been doing this for a long time. His videos have helped me tremendously with my compressor and he is nice enough to even answer questions from others. They have invented these things called dictionaries also, that you can learn how to spell correctly. just my opinion btw
THE COMPRESSOR GURU IS A BIG FAT DUMB GOOF!!!
Thanks man. I'm on a ship in the Congo, trying to help my engineer rebuild a Quincy Model 390. Yours is a different model but a lot of the same will still apply.
Been doing comp.repairs since 1974 started with quincy & atlas work on everything that makes air recip & rotarys the 325-6 is from 1968 with cone springs , newer ones use sprial spring , the 325 in the video is a -100 series
Awesome knowledge sir! Subbed!! I'm in the middle of my own big compressor problems... working it now. Seeing this project.... believe I must have a Quincy too. I'll verify this morning.i may have some questions for you soon.
No problem
These videos are great. I've got a 310-21 that I'm getting ready to rebuild myself. Mine also sounds like it's got a wrist pin loose. I'll be taking much longer to get mine done as this is my first one. I'm mechanically inclined but want to make sure I get this right. Thanks for putting these videos up.
You are a craftsman, and it shows. Very nice work, good vid. Thanks for posting.
Great work, no telling how many Quincy compressors have been saved from the scrap pile because of this video series. I jumped into Quincy compressor ownership/ restoration recently. Your videos gave me the confidence. Ended up with a 350, 308, and a 216. The 350 and 216 run great. The 308 ROC 2 has play on the high pressure rod bearing surface. Quincy quoted $600 for replacement rods. Quincy part number 1526. My question is, do you know much about these rod bearing inserts offered by pacific air compressors? No idea how often you monitor your channel comments, but I appreciate your contribution to the knowledge commons.
I've never heard of them before but they're probably not too bad they're in the compressor business
Yes on both counts LOL. The springs are the cone shaped ones. I haven't yet opened up the HP side. I have to fab up a tool. The other part is the oiler that screws into the crank closest to the oil pump. It seems someone has pulled it out and welded up the hole. The other one closest to the pully is fine. Wonder if I should drill it out or leave it alone. It was probably burning up HP rings so that was thier solution. Thanks for the help again!!
You were talking to the guy above about internal engine paint. The major brand is called Glyptal. Spray can or brush on, old school stuff for inside the engine, or compressor.
Hey Dave , lookin good Brother !!!
Hell of a Great Job !!!
Dave, Thanks for all of the great videos. You have helped hundreds of people keep these great compressors alive and kicking. I have a 325-12 I am getting ready to overhaul. 1. Are the generic Chinese overhaul kits ok or should I stick with the Chinese ones Quincy sells? 2. How do you prep the intercooler for painting? 3. Which is better, beader or electrolysis tank for cleaning and will it hurt the cylinders? Dave I appreciate you! Thanks for any advice!
I wasn't aware that Quincy was offering Chinese replacement parts, the intercooler is just a copper tube with metal fins on it you can dam neer clean it anyway you want same way with that cylinder
Sorry, I probably shouldn't have worded it that way. You showed us that bearings and some other Quincy stuff was now made in China. I just wanted your opinion on the quality of the aftermarket Chinese overhaul kits.
First off, I absolutely loved you vids!!!
it's actually an old practice that was used back when there was a problem with poris castings if you use the right type of primer it will stay intact for the life of the machine thanks for your comment Nicholas
Man that thing looks awesome, very good work! Wish I had a job like that, but there's no real way into it unless ya get lucky.
Great job. Question: what is that coating you applied to the inside of the crankcase? Just regular primer? Will that hold up as it sees use? Would be terrible for it to peel off and sabotage your great work.
I'm wondering the same thing... What kind of primer was used inside the crankcase and why? My model 340 already has primer inside the crankcase. The existing paint is starting to fail, with a few pieces of paint flaking off here and there, so I intend to strip it all off and either repaint it or just go without.
Nice work and nice video. Looks to me like you could use a good bead blaster.
Did you leave the outer piece of the oil pump out? The circle piece that goes around the star. Looked like it wasn't in there. Loved the video.
Not sure haven't gotten that far yet. But it does have the brass acorn nut with holes in it on the unloader. I'm pretty sure it's obselete but was wondering if some of the newer parts still fit, like the valve washers, piston rings and front oil seal. Pretty sure the gaskets are the same, but I could be wrong.
Thank you for the nice comment! Take care Tom
wherry nice video , I have 2 compressors of these .
now i now som littel of it.
greethings from holland
phil mossel
I ordered some Timkin wheel bearings for a Dodge Ram that were make in Korea for a Japenese company named Koyo that makes super high quality bearings for Toyota and such.
Si solo quiero cambiar el eje de la bomba de aceite tengo que retirar la tapa en la que asienta el cigüeñal????
Great work, i have also a 325 Compressor and a mistake.... wen the lubeoil its cold i get 22 Psi but wen its warm up i lose pressur to 10Psi and the hydraulic unloader blow up.... Inside is a Compressor oil ISO 68. I change the O-Ring from connection Pump to Crankshaft, filter, check oilpump and strainer everything looks good... maybe you have another idea? :)
Does your compressor have the old style vein oil pump
@fritzhvac thanks man, forgot long it takes to get it right!
I do have a question though. I have a 325-6 and the rear oil bung has been welded shut by the previous owner. Should I drill it back out, get a new insert or just leave it alone? I'm in the process of doing an overhaul on this unit. Also does Quincy have the springs for my valves? They have 4 smaller springs per valve on the LP side and do the new washers fit my pump? Thanks for the help and very informative videos.
Well Quincy is not Quincy any more. They have been sold a couple times since they were Quincy owned. Every time a company changes hand compromises are made. 40 plus years rebuilding compressors.
"Got the crankcase all primed up here" (at 3:05)
What type of primer is that? Better yet, what type of primer won't flake off and cause problems later? You said "primered up" but didn't allude to what primer. I'm curious because I'm about to embark on my own rebuild. Thanks! Appreciate your help!
A lacquer based Primer that won’t get attacked by the lubricant some primers will wipe right off with mineral spirits and that’s the kind you don’t want an automotive type primer will work just fine
The hole in the crank leave the plug in it. Also it sounds like you got a obsolete pump or at least the valve are. On your compressor are the HP and LP valves the same size?
Hey bud... I know I asked before but I cannot recall and cannot seem to find the primer you suggested for inside the crankcase. You mentioned a "lacquer based" primer for auto body use.... But everything I see is "oil based" or is enamel or I am just not finding anything that says lacquer based..... Was it a spray can or brush on primer? I just want to make sure whatever I use inside holds up for years. Thanks man!!
Why did you not bead blast the crank case and head? Quality rebuild by the way, enjoyed the videos.
I certainly could have I just didn't have it at the time
I wasn't aware you could prime inside crank case. Won't that paint come loose after the oil and heat get to it?
Are the smaller springs cone shape? I am not sure what you are referring to about the oil bung is it on the crank?
It came in a spray can that I depressurize and put into a small container I would try to use the enamel based But test it first By painting a small test area on a piece of metal Let it dry for a couple of days and see if it will wipe off with mineral spirits or not
If not your famous!
It wasn't a orifice it was called a spill valve it had a brass plunger and a spring.. The spill valve was supposed to unload the oil pump. Just one of those things that looked good on paper..the head gasket is different seal is the same LP valve disc should be the same but the springs won't work and Iam almost positive the HP valves are smaller and nothing is available:(
excelent craftsmanship
No assembly lube on the oil pump? Or even oiled it up? Ouch.
8:22 you may want to look at the video again
I didn't know that thanks for the information!!
Just curious, was there a problem with them not oiling properly and that's why that orifice is closed off?
Glyptal is what you want. Just incase you cant find more of what you used before.
Hello, great video! I’m curious on how you stripped it down to bare metal and what kind of paint did you use on the inside and outside!?
I used old school carburetor cleaner that you get from Napa in a 6 gallon container, The primer I used for the inside of the crank case was a lacquer based red automotive primer
ROTARYCOMPTECH thank you... I had another question I’m hoping you might know something about ....I pulled the valve covers off my Quincy 310-ROC-22/ Lincoln 9201 compressor pump and first question I have is why is my unloader tower shaped like a bell 🔔 and not like all the rest of the 310’s? I was going to order a valve repair kit but I noticed they all say 310-ROC-22 but my valves look nothing like those... I haven’t seen one video with anyone that has the same looking valves as mine, so it’s hard to do anything with without knowing how they work or where to get parts for it. 2 of the valves have a plate with 2 tiny holes in it and I’m stumped on how to get them out? Do I need special tools?the 2 valves I was able to get out look to be a solid piece of cast iron with plates on the bottom that are retained by a spring. Are these rebuildable? Or do I need to order new ones, because one of them has a rattle inside and no spring left tension left...I can’t see anyway these pull apart to get to the spring?...I’ve managed to only get the 2 out that don’t have the plates on top with the 2 holes on them... those are being held in by the plate or the threaded cylinder around it? I’m not sure. Any advice would be appreciated. And my last question is if I rebuild it can I use same piston and just hone and add new rings or do i need new piston as well? Sorry for the huge message but I have no information on this pump and watch your videos and you have extensive knowledge in this area. Any information would be appreciated. Thank you again.
@@vunit8223 Is the unloader that is shaped like a bell is it made out of brass? I didn't work on too many of the Quincy Model 310 compressors, It kind of sounds like you may have a old style obsolete pump But I think the head is the same as the newer style units, From what you're describing to me it sounds like the valves are stuck in the head and may need to be pounded out with a hammer and a drift, It would be helpful if you could possibly Upload a video of the compressor
ROTARYCOMPTECH yes, the bell shaped unloader tower is made of brass! For some reason I’ve looked everywhere online and can’t find 1 single other compressor that has that bell shaped brass valve cover..they all are equipped with the tower with a flat top and 6-8 bolts holding down a black leathery looking flap....Hmm, does that mean I have an older absolete valve cover/ pump? or a newer style cover? Do you think someone may have overhauled this pump sometime in the past and since it‘s an absolete pump they went ahead and replaced the old style absolete head with a newer style head??? The only problem with that theory is the unit as a whole looks to be all original....the paint on the head matches identically to the paint on the block. I will post a detailed video by 5pm today....thank you for your help.
Will post a detailed video tomorrow sometime. I don’t understand why my phone go’s halfway through the uploading and then says “upload error” I’ve been trying to figure it out. I already made the video it just won’t let me upload. But I’ll find a way...and thanks again for walking me through this! On another note I’m down to 3 valves I was able to extract! I only have the unloading tower left and it’s being stubborn as hell! But hopefully it’s nothing like that scorched high pressure valve, that sob was something else! And yes my valves are exactly as you described. Cast iron I believe, and the springs look as if they were either pressed in or casted inside the valve body because there is no visible signs of disassembly! I’ll keep you posted...thanks
Let clarify, sorry. They pulled out the oiler, welded the hole on the oiler and screwed it back on. The crank is fine. No welds on that part LOL
Do you know the journal diameter specs? Mine needs to be ground. Hopefully mine is still standard.
What did you use to prime the crankcase?
Yes Sir
Thanks man!
Good overhaul. Those Chinese bearings will be fine. It's just the idea of it all. It's the little stuff that annoys me sometimes.
Excelente work. What a shame to use the Chinese bearings . I will only use tinker or skf.
Please check out the comments on this vid
I have absolutely no idea what you're talking about
blah 2995
No! This is not quality workmanship. There are some bad practice in this assembly.
1) He used a medal hammer when he should have used a wood ed block or wooden drift to put precision bearings, or parts in.
2) That 30w oil will not last for those bearings. They require grease, NOT OIL!!
2) You can heat up bearings, or you can just freeze the shaft with freeze spray.> IN MY OPINION.
3) When he hammered on that one bearing, he shoud have oil the shaft to ease getting the bearing on without requiring too much hammering, and marring the shaft's bearing surface.
After seeing this video, I would not hire someone as a machinist, or millwright with these bad work practices >
SORRY, JUST MY OPINION.
Mike Smith Here my opinion.
1) tapered roller bearings are not that precision in comparison to most but that doesn't mater as long as you only contact the inner race you can't damage the bearing
2) the bearings are lubricated with 30/w N/D oil just because their wheel bearings doesn't mean you grease them also the factory doesn't recommend grease
3) If you watch the video I did heat the bearings, one was tighter than the other and had to be taped on with a socket on the inner race grease or oil wouldn't have helped
BTW you got two two's also what's the point of all this...Just a opinion . Theirs not a thing wrong with this rebuild.. And that's my opinion
What's all this? It' just my opinion. If you respected other people's opinion, you wouldn't be replying to my comment to this video. You gave yours, I gave mine. That's it.
Mike Smith I am replying to your comment on my video that's why I am commenting! The only problem your negative comments don't hold any waterthey're just your opinions on different techniques....Don't you have anything better to do, I mean really dude
mujeres. ke asen el. amor
@@MikeSmith-rn9rr You're being the jerk with the uncalled for opinion of negativity. This guy is giving up his time and knowledge to help hundreds, if not thousands of diy'ers. Crawl back into your self serving and self righteous hole and btw, have you watched all his video series on this? He plainly is a product expert and has been doing this for a long time. His videos have helped me tremendously with my compressor and he is nice enough to even answer questions from others. They have invented these things called dictionaries also, that you can learn how to spell correctly. just my opinion btw