For a sturdier heat band (but yea, this isn't being re-used), consider cutting an aluminium soda can into a strip perhaps four times the ferrite width - two careful folds using a metal ruler and you have a band. I've even considered using 12 awg solid copper wire scrap to make the band, which is even less work. For holding the iron, take a scrap of wood (say 1.2x6x20cm, though you could go longer) and close to one end auger/hole-saw a hole in it the diameter of the handle of the soldering iron (but smaller than the guard), pass the plug and handle of the iron through the hole. That piece of wood can be viced, clamped, screwed, or propped as needed (in my case, in a slightly pulled out drawer/tray underneath my workbench, with the soldering iron facing up). If necessary, you can cut a notch from an edge of the wood to the hole, so the cord can be slipped in (if your plug is much larger than the handle, or just for quicker insertion). If you have a ferrule crimping tool, this works good for crushing the aluminium into a cylinder that fits into the iron tip. If I were to be doing this often (say doing a lot of rework of a certain model device), I'd consider taking some copper stock and making a squared U to fit over the top of the transformer, with a threaded stud to connect to the iron (thus making it more of a Y), and holes near the ends of slightly extended sides (the "tops" of the U) with a suitable machine screw to pull them inwards. Then the band is reusable and if you set it up right, you can loosen the screw, remove the heated core, and insert another and re-fix the screw - obviously with screwdriver and pliers - without having to let the iron or band cool down between transformers - the built up heat in the band is still mostly there for the next transformer. This disposable band method works fine.
For a sturdier heat band (but yea, this isn't being re-used), consider cutting an aluminium soda can into a strip perhaps four times the ferrite width - two careful folds using a metal ruler and you have a band.
I've even considered using 12 awg solid copper wire scrap to make the band, which is even less work.
For holding the iron, take a scrap of wood (say 1.2x6x20cm, though you could go longer) and close to one end auger/hole-saw a hole in it the diameter of the handle of the soldering iron (but smaller than the guard), pass the plug and handle of the iron through the hole. That piece of wood can be viced, clamped, screwed, or propped as needed (in my case, in a slightly pulled out drawer/tray underneath my workbench, with the soldering iron facing up). If necessary, you can cut a notch from an edge of the wood to the hole, so the cord can be slipped in (if your plug is much larger than the handle, or just for quicker insertion). If you have a ferrule crimping tool, this works good for crushing the aluminium into a cylinder that fits into the iron tip.
If I were to be doing this often (say doing a lot of rework of a certain model device), I'd consider taking some copper stock and making a squared U to fit over the top of the transformer, with a threaded stud to connect to the iron (thus making it more of a Y), and holes near the ends of slightly extended sides (the "tops" of the U) with a suitable machine screw to pull them inwards. Then the band is reusable and if you set it up right, you can loosen the screw, remove the heated core, and insert another and re-fix the screw - obviously with screwdriver and pliers - without having to let the iron or band cool down between transformers - the built up heat in the band is still mostly there for the next transformer.
This disposable band method works fine.
Thanks for watching. Good info.
Much of the video is a waste of time. Only 5% is useful