Here is the name of an incredible wax based lube for those of you who haven’t found it yet. The retail name for it is “SQUIRT”. After all the latex and lube comments I suppose Ollie just couldn’t come around to calling out the name. It’s great stuff.
After watching this video, I checked out some of this at my LBS. (Not sure if it was the same brand.) That bottle at the shop said you can’t degrease with it. Is that correct? How do you clean and maintain it?
25 will fit. That's why it's got horizontal dropouts, you can adjust the rear wheel to make it fit perfect. And you could use the watts saved by going wider.
Tyres need to match the wheel to work properly and be faster. On the older 2nd hand wheels they will likely be a narrower rim and mate more aerodynamically to a 23.
Love the channel. Watch every video. It’s a shame you mask the squirt brand because they don’t pay you. A balance between sponsor and unsponsored products is really important to keep audience trust.
I once spent hours getting a set of tubeless tyres seated and inflated. About 2 minutes after succeeding I realised they were directional and I'd put them on the wrong way around. Grown man in tears.
i wish tire manufacturers would make the direction indicator easier to see. All that useless stuff in big bright letters, and the direction indicator is a tiny black on black arrow.
Great series, Oli. I really enjoy this approach and find your presentation here insightful and inspiring. Well done, looking forward to see how far you can take this bike.
@@diesistkeinname795 too extreme praying matis is banned from the uci. The top of the extension can't be too much higher that the bottom. But CTT (uk tt govening body) doesn't have the uci rules. Why do people adopt it though as its far more comftable that the other extreme positions.
This is a great series. I used to run latex tubes but had them spontaneously pop in the paddock or in the house getting the bike ready to go to a race. It happened three times before I said enough is enough and went back to butyl. (This wasn’t right after install either, it was after a few rides training and a couple races) Not sure what was up but it made me wary of them.
I'm that guy with 60-75mm valve stem tubes as spares for my alloy box section wheels just for my one friend with deep sections who always forgets a spare tube.
Paraffin wax + paraffin (kerosene in US English) + PTFE powder + limonene (or orange terpenes, which is mainly limonene). There, I've saved you a bunch of money.
You can descend on Continental Supersonics with disc brakes just fine 😁 I've used Supersonics for the last 5000km with only two punctures (one a huge nail which would've gone through just about anything) after I figured you have to be careful installing them. Latex is better than the light butyl tubes, but Supersonics are really an "extralight" tube, would love to see if they close the gap to latex.
Skipped right over the addition of valve extenders - would have been worth covering how Ollie prevents leaks. Reiterating the PITA daily pumping up of tires with latex tubes seems in order (but I guess didn't mesh with "easier life" motto).
Instead of buying hi rise extensions I made my own for £8. Bought 22mm dia aluminium tube from tubing manufacturer, measured and cut to custom length and bent to custom angle. Just an idea.
With a shimano rear hub there are 3 seals that can be removed. What is left is a hub you can fully flush every 50 or 100miles. One of the seals covers the freehub. With it removed the pawls get washed too when flushing. And the pawls engage less at high speed and the sound changes to more quiet. Its really nice. Martha Stewart would say its a good thing
This is great Ollie.. really interesting and drawing me towards a build of my own. I ride Cervélo road bikes and love their aerodynamic qualities.. best vid you've done since that little trip out in the "O" you never mention .. ever!
Thanks so much for this! I bought my first road bike a couple of months back and can't keep off it. I didn't know you could move the seat forward and backwards though lol Out to the garage I go to make sure my knees are over the pedals! :)
Great content! I just got 2008 Cervelo P2 SL in mint condition with Shimano Dura Ace groupset for $200... I did replace the 23mm tires to 28mm :) An amazing bike!
I can attest that the wax emulsion lubricant in this video "Squirt" is amazing other than watts it keeps your drivetrain clean and lasts around 400km per application it's really unlike any lube I've ever used.
M. A. - I’ve used various dry lubes when i worked in middle east up to the insane priced muc off ceramic - you will have more noise (it’s dry) and it evaporates out to form a dry film - that said any rain or sustained wetting of drive will quickly wash a dry lube off - Now back in UK I’ve been running wet on my mtb over the past month and I’m about to switch back to dry - squirt specifically!!
I've had good luck with Continental Race 28 Light tubes on a couple of bikes over the past year, with Conti Grand Prix Classic skinwalls (pretty, but not particularly low rolling resistance) and Ultra Sport II (great cheap tires, feels very much like riding the Grand Prix Classics). No puncture flats. I got them mostly to fit inside a dinky Lezyne Road Caddy bag (they roll up tight and tiny), but ended up riding on 'em. They're quite good as butyl tubes go. We don't have any serious descents here where I'd need to brake often so rim heating hasn't been an issue.
Ollie, I’m intrigued by your comments about latex v lightweight butyl tubes and wondered whether GCN could explore this further. I had a blowout on latex tubes which caused me to crash and the crash snapped a chain stay so all told, quite expensive and a bit of a bummer. Not to mention painful road rash! The tyre survived and showed no sign of a puncture. Fortunately it was on a flat stretch of road, but worrying still because I’d just plummeted off a mountain 10 minutes before. I’ve now got lightweight Conti butyl tubes but your comment about descending scared me a bit. I was always under the impression that latex tubes are also prone to overheating. Like I said, maybe GCN could explore this one day.
I also suffered from a blowout with latex Michelin innertubes. Luckily it was on the way up the Col de la Bonnette! Dubbelcheck your tires after installation when hitting the mountains please.
Stole my tubes, my tires and my bike lube. The breaks are new to me, I did not know about those. But if you are going for a serious race, get ceramic speed's liquid wax, applied just like the squirt. It's expensive, and I noticed it doesn't store well for long, but it's probably very close to a full on wax chain. It beats squirt for performance.
Thought about going 1x and ditching the front derailuer? You could cut off the frame mounting tab. That would be fun to watch. Could swap out the chain ring for a solid one in that same video
Nip over here to Trowbridge and have a rummage through the stock in Julian House Bike Workshop. There's always something interesting. You have a branch just down the road from you in Bath, but the one here has much more stock. Bring Hobnobs for the staff.
Great series Ollie. How about some aero (non-QR) skewers? Small gain, but pretty cheap. Aero water bottle. Chain - you really needed to discuss cleaning out the old lube first for proper benefit of a wax based lube. And frankly I find wax super easy once you've done the initial cleaning (which isn't hard anyway) and have a quick link and pliers. Plus a gold chain would be faster, you know that. And to nitpick, you totally failed to mention that latex tyres need pumping up before every ride.
The rotational direction of road tires is pure aesthetics. If the tires have knobs or water draining fins, it serves a purpose, but if not, it's just for looks.
I remember an interview talking about the rotational direction mostly being put on on slick road tires to keep people who NEED to know which way it's supposed to go happy, with negligible difference to performance
I dont even own a roadbike but love your videos. Nonetheless, of i add up all the watts that can be saved with tricks and tips from the last 20 videos I saw, combining them should deliver a bike that crashes the hour record on its own 😂
Go 1x on the front. Ditch the front mech, shifter, cables etc. Second hand solid chainring will be about £30. Drag to zero make a nice aero chain catcher to stop you dripping your chan. Will all help aero and clean up the bike.
About that tire gap in the back. If, no when you hit a sticky tarmac and pick up some small flint or pebbles it is going to sound like the frame split in half. I've been there. min 5 mm I say. Also Look says that a narrow clearance slows you down, moving surface close together thingy. Consider drilling a small hole in each drop-out from behind and screw in a small screw to move the wheel backwards. It is standard on some frames. you might even get away with a bigger tire as mentioned below. Do not try to pull the wheel back and let the quick release hold the tire in place, it is futile.
Just had my first long ride on my classicskin Schwalbe One tubeless tires inflated to 5.5 bar. It felt like riding on Michelin tubulars with latex inner tubes! Since they kept their pressure after mounting ( on Fulcrum alu rims ) and inflation I didn't put the sealant in yet. I'll wait for my first puncture to put some in (on the fly, through the valvestem). I wax my degreased chains with paraffinwax and use Squirt when the chain starts making noise. Rather informative video this time, keep up the good work Ollie!
Hi Ollie, I was wondering why you aren't upgrading your brake pads, I know you don't want to be stopping but they seem like quite a good insurance policy if you do have to brake for some reason during a TT on an open road?
Have you considered having your collarbones broken and reset to make your shoulders narrower and more aero, as mentioned by Michael Hutchinson in "Faster"? Expensive to have done professionally no doubt (and you'd probably need to go to Thailand or something), but you could try to bodge it at home, just get some big wrestler or bouncer to do it for you.. Would make a great GCN series, following the recovery process, aero testing before and after, etc.. 😉😂
Halo Hex Key skewers. £8, save some watts when a quick release is a pointless without a team car following you.. Hadn't seen that brake before. I've got a couple of Tri-Rig Omnis off my old Tri bike. You might find the rear brake is the bigger gain as it should reduce the negative air pressure area, in front of the head tube should make less difference. I'd do both.
Aha! Lube the latex !!!!!to proper install the latex tube always powder them with talcum ( silicon spray is also ok if you have some), otherwise the outer surface of the tube will "stick" to the inner surface of the tyre and the tube will stretch more on the rim tape area+ if you ride in wet conditions it also helps!
Profile Designs Aero Bars, I have the T4 Carbon bars that I bought for $140 but it looks like quarantine purchases have skyrocketed the price to $250 on amazon. They do make aluminum ones that might be worth it, or you can look on ebay for used ones.
I thought ditching the front derailleur would have been an obvious first step, less is more. Something I've done in the past is, you could use some of that ABS to make aero covers for the big chainring. Nice find on the brake.
The Latex tubes leaks more air easily than butyl inner tubes. Butyl tubes is the way to go and just lose some body weight to get more wattage saved. More body strength would help too.
Hi Ollie, I'm loving this project. Can you dig deeper and find out what are the aero savings of narrower bars? Example going from 42cm to 38cm. I think this would be more important for a road bike. I look forward to your update
Is that a gossamer crank? I had some ultra light butyl tubes and they do puncture easier i found. Went to slighly jeavier maxxis welterweights no problems. Had latex but they didn't hold pressure. Slightly more comfortable but not much in it.
Always coat the inside of your tires with talcumpowder to minimise this friction with the innertube. I use a brush for it. To treat the innertube I shake it in a plastic bag with a teaspoon of the stuff.
I see the pedals are regular spring-based Look Keo, rather than the carbon blade. Consider putting a strip of duct tape under the pedal to smooth all that out. With a proper sharp craft knife, you can get a really flush fit. Definitely a good watts per pound there, even if it’s half a watt across the two pedals for 10p worth of tape. Team Sky even taped over the pedal axle bolt in the crank. Saw that on a GCN vid a while back.
If you pair ollie with his glasses and a snazzy jumper, you get a LOCAL resemblance to ollie plimpsoles from legs akimbo theatre company (great video again).
Can some tekki please enlighten me, how can something on the inside effect something on the outside? I'm talking latex tubes...... how does it work, it keeps air in the tyre but its the tyre which contacts the ground.
@@gabscar1thanks for the reply but I still don't get the friction inside, I think I need a little more in depth explination. The outside rolls so there is friction with the road which is obvious to me, the tube is pumped up and is solid against the inside of the tyre, how can this affect watts??
They are two separate surfaces. Think of the tube as a road surface inside the tyre which remains constant. Tubeless is smooth, latex is coarse and butyl is rough.
Have you considered using heat shrink adhesive film to skin the rear wheel? Very thin and light. Fragile but easy to patch and repair. Cheaps like a bird.
Hey Ollie, I'm pretty sure a larger clearance between tire/frame is actually more aerodynamic than running as close to the frame as possible. It's this idea that heavily influenced the design of the newest Trek Madone's and the specialized Shiv TT.
Maybe go to a single chainring and a wider range cassette would be a great idea: 25% less air ressistance from wires, you avoid also drag from front derailleur and one of the rings (this point I think maybe it's unvaluable), Don't remember wich drivetrain it has, but maybe Shimano 10 Speed road shifters + XTR 9 Speed (m970 or M960, second one would look better on a roadie) and you can reach a 11-34 range with 10 cogs, even to save some weight (it's not drag reducing but you also make your watts more effecitve). Other crazy but maybe effective idea is ti create a cable hiding system, something li the Tri-Rig delta Aero Cover, it hides the cables and the front brake to reduce the air drag.
Maybe as a base bar the Bulls Vuka alu, I had it in the past. It's around 250 grams, maybe depending on the width of it. Sometimes i'm using this one now on my track bike.
#askgcntech Hey Ollie! Thanks for the great content. What do you think about polyurethane innertubes? They should be as light as latex innertubes, provide the same low rolling resistance, while holding the pressure as butyl ones and providing a higher puncture protection. Also the producers claim to need less energy and have a much less water consumption during the production.
Ollie I think you need to look at the dropouts as to why your tire doesnt fit. The wheel was all the way forward in the dropouts, you probably have room for 25mm tires if you pull the wheel back
I'd wager that a latex tube will only make your bike faster if your tyres are also super compliant. It's all down to ease of deformation at the contact point. I don't think latex will make my Schwalbe puncture proof commuter tyres any faster!
You should finish putting the tire where the valve is. Because you can push on the valve to avoid pinching it... believe it on not it is actually MORE important than aligning the logo ;) !!!
I tested latex against Tubolitos (not scientific) but feels that the rolling resistance is better on Tubolitos, and they are lighter too, I also smear some mineral oil to the inside of the tire that touches the the tube and it rolls better than by tubeless setup because they are lighter... Would love to see you do a review
Lube and latex is what makes a true cyclist
And lycra :)
And shaved legs
Jesus, I can't resist... and a sore ass after a long ride lmao xD
Sillem you win, sir
@@sillem4337 thats why chamois creme is popular in other areas than cycling as well
The most important question is: Does the rear wheel WHOOOSHH?????
Yup, whats the point of a disc wheel that doesn't WUUUMP...WUUUMP when you pass someone?
Here is the name of an incredible wax based lube for those of you who haven’t found it yet. The retail name for it is “SQUIRT”.
After all the latex and lube comments I suppose Ollie just couldn’t come around to calling out the name.
It’s great stuff.
At least the bottle is identical - I bet it is Squirt. Amazing lube, I've been using it for a couple of years now
@@southpunker it is, one of the previous bottles you can see it labelled up on the mantle piece
Yip, must be Squirt. After 16 years as my favourite I recognised the bottle immediately.
After watching this video, I checked out some of this at my LBS. (Not sure if it was the same brand.) That bottle at the shop said you can’t degrease with it. Is that correct? How do you clean and maintain it?
@@christopherbrown9573 white spirit or petrol get it off easy, as does fairy liquid. All you need is an emulsifier and it'll wash away
25 will fit. That's why it's got horizontal dropouts, you can adjust the rear wheel to make it fit perfect.
And you could use the watts saved by going wider.
Move the rear wheel on the dropout back a few mm and you'll fit the 25mms
Wide tires are just not necessary for lightweight riders riding on roads.
That bike has vertical dropouts. I had the same model.
That's what I was going to say too. Adjustable clearance.
Tyres need to match the wheel to work properly and be faster. On the older 2nd hand wheels they will likely be a narrower rim and mate more aerodynamically to a 23.
6:24 , that look of excitement putting on a new tyre. Priceless.
Love the series
Ollie still on the Squirt lube despite sponsorship. Been using for the last few years since he mentioned on CW, great stuff!
+1 for Squirt. I've used it the last 3 years on my road and CX bikes. Saving watts is great but I love how clean it keeps the chain
Love the channel. Watch every video. It’s a shame you mask the squirt brand because they don’t pay you. A balance between sponsor and unsponsored products is really important to keep audience trust.
Wauw that was a fast editing change from tubes to tires.
I once spent hours getting a set of tubeless tyres seated and inflated. About 2 minutes after succeeding I realised they were directional and I'd put them on the wrong way around. Grown man in tears.
i wish tire manufacturers would make the direction indicator easier to see. All that useless stuff in big bright letters, and the direction indicator is a tiny black on black arrow.
Tipex!
Or make the direction indicator part of the lettering.
But I agree with you.
Great series, Oli. I really enjoy this approach and find your presentation here insightful and inspiring. Well done, looking forward to see how far you can take this bike.
A little talcum/baby powder always helps in all aspects!
how much of a praying mantis are you willing to become?
ollie: YES
There are faster posititions than the paying mantis, but the UCI hates that trick...
@@diesistkeinname795 too extreme praying matis is banned from the uci. The top of the extension can't be too much higher that the bottom. But CTT (uk tt govening body) doesn't have the uci rules. Why do people adopt it though as its far more comftable that the other extreme positions.
@@AnthonyLock92 I wasn't talking about extreme praying mantis but an optimized Superman position and the Crouch position.
This is a great series. I used to run latex tubes but had them spontaneously pop in the paddock or in the house getting the bike ready to go to a race. It happened three times before I said enough is enough and went back to butyl. (This wasn’t right after install either, it was after a few rides training and a couple races) Not sure what was up but it made me wary of them.
I'm that guy with 60-75mm valve stem tubes as spares for my alloy box section wheels just for my one friend with deep sections who always forgets a spare tube.
DougDirtyImp Someone as thoughtful as you deserves more than one friend ;-)
I've been tempted by long valve stems simply so they don't fully disappear into the wheel when I pump them up.
Looks like someone's the packrat of the rolling group.
Lol @ how you avoid naming the squirt as they're not sponsors
Paraffin wax + paraffin (kerosene in US English) + PTFE powder + limonene (or orange terpenes, which is mainly limonene). There, I've saved you a bunch of money.
Yes but where do you get PTFE powder from in the UK? Not piano stores, wrong type. Not eBay or Amazon. So only from the China? Serious question btw.
@@Muzzledoctor i got it from china and it took 3 to 4 weeks
Have had PTFE power on order from China for months now. Still waiting. Look carefully at shipping times if you find a willing supplier.
Stupid question, but how can it be the "wrong" ptfe?
Thanks Ollie, great tips for the perfect ride! 👀
You can descend on Continental Supersonics with disc brakes just fine 😁 I've used Supersonics for the last 5000km with only two punctures (one a huge nail which would've gone through just about anything) after I figured you have to be careful installing them. Latex is better than the light butyl tubes, but Supersonics are really an "extralight" tube, would love to see if they close the gap to latex.
A bit of tweaking with those horizontal dropouts and the 25 will have loads of room.
Lol!
I use the latex tubes and the ride is comfortable. I carry a beutile spare.
Didn't know latex tubes were a thing, nice one. Glad I subscribed to gcn tech.
Skipped right over the addition of valve extenders - would have been worth covering how Ollie prevents leaks.
Reiterating the PITA daily pumping up of tires with latex tubes seems in order (but I guess didn't mesh with "easier life" motto).
Instead of buying hi rise extensions I made my own for £8. Bought 22mm dia aluminium tube from tubing manufacturer, measured and cut to custom length and bent to custom angle. Just an idea.
I have they Pirelli P Zero tyres on my Canyon Speedmax and I love their feel. Great tyres!
With a shimano rear hub there are 3 seals that can be removed. What is left is a hub you can fully flush every 50 or 100miles. One of the seals covers the freehub. With it removed the pawls get washed too when flushing. And the pawls engage less at high speed and the sound changes to more quiet. Its really nice. Martha Stewart would say its a good thing
This is great Ollie.. really interesting and drawing me towards a build of my own. I ride Cervélo road bikes and love their aerodynamic qualities.. best vid you've done since that little trip out in the "O" you never mention .. ever!
Thanks so much for this! I bought my first road bike a couple of months back and can't keep off it. I didn't know you could move the seat forward and backwards though lol Out to the garage I go to make sure my knees are over the pedals! :)
Great content! I just got 2008 Cervelo P2 SL in mint condition with Shimano Dura Ace groupset for $200... I did replace the 23mm tires to 28mm :) An amazing bike!
I can attest that the wax emulsion lubricant in this video "Squirt" is amazing other than watts it keeps your drivetrain clean and lasts around 400km per application it's really unlike any lube I've ever used.
Agreed
M. A. - I’ve used various dry lubes when i worked in middle east up to the insane priced muc off ceramic - you will have more noise (it’s dry) and it evaporates out to form a dry film - that said any rain or sustained wetting of drive will quickly wash a dry lube off - Now back in UK I’ve been running wet on my mtb over the past month and I’m about to switch back to dry - squirt specifically!!
Lube and Latex. Best bang for a lad.
Nice one Ollie and GCN best, most realistic series yet!
I am so mad that you got a tire on that easy. I tried to install a trainer tire and was struggling 😂
Nice video
I've had good luck with Continental Race 28 Light tubes on a couple of bikes over the past year, with Conti Grand Prix Classic skinwalls (pretty, but not particularly low rolling resistance) and Ultra Sport II (great cheap tires, feels very much like riding the Grand Prix Classics). No puncture flats. I got them mostly to fit inside a dinky Lezyne Road Caddy bag (they roll up tight and tiny), but ended up riding on 'em. They're quite good as butyl tubes go. We don't have any serious descents here where I'd need to brake often so rim heating hasn't been an issue.
Ollie, I’m intrigued by your comments about latex v lightweight butyl tubes and wondered whether GCN could explore this further.
I had a blowout on latex tubes which caused me to crash and the crash snapped a chain stay so all told, quite expensive and a bit of a bummer. Not to mention painful road rash! The tyre survived and showed no sign of a puncture.
Fortunately it was on a flat stretch of road, but worrying still because I’d just plummeted off a mountain 10 minutes before. I’ve now got lightweight Conti butyl tubes but your comment about descending scared me a bit. I was always under the impression that latex tubes are also prone to overheating.
Like I said, maybe GCN could explore this one day.
I also suffered from a blowout with latex Michelin innertubes. Luckily it was on the way up the Col de la Bonnette!
Dubbelcheck your tires after installation when hitting the mountains please.
if you have a “gap” between tires and rims you could use silicone to fill it and “emulate” the mavic cx01 blades ;)
Then just hope you never have a flat 😂
Stole my tubes, my tires and my bike lube. The breaks are new to me, I did not know about those. But if you are going for a serious race, get ceramic speed's liquid wax, applied just like the squirt. It's expensive, and I noticed it doesn't store well for long, but it's probably very close to a full on wax chain. It beats squirt for performance.
Waited so long for part 3 and cant wait again for the next 👍
Thought about going 1x and ditching the front derailuer? You could cut off the frame mounting tab. That would be fun to watch. Could swap out the chain ring for a solid one in that same video
Wow...did not know about that for the super sonic tubes. Just spend 10 days in the mountains North Carolina on SS tubes.
Nice video about cycling on a budget - thanks!
Nip over here to Trowbridge and have a rummage through the stock in Julian House Bike Workshop. There's always something interesting. You have a branch just down the road from you in Bath, but the one here has much more stock. Bring Hobnobs for the staff.
Great series Ollie. How about some aero (non-QR) skewers? Small gain, but pretty cheap. Aero water bottle.
Chain - you really needed to discuss cleaning out the old lube first for proper benefit of a wax based lube. And frankly I find wax super easy once you've done the initial cleaning (which isn't hard anyway) and have a quick link and pliers. Plus a gold chain would be faster, you know that.
And to nitpick, you totally failed to mention that latex tyres need pumping up before every ride.
The rotational direction of road tires is pure aesthetics.
If the tires have knobs or water draining fins, it serves a purpose, but if not, it's just for looks.
I remember an interview talking about the rotational direction mostly being put on on slick road tires to keep people who NEED to know which way it's supposed to go happy, with negligible difference to performance
Thanks Ollie. Top -tips for Watt-gains.
I dont even own a roadbike but love your videos. Nonetheless, of i add up all the watts that can be saved with tricks and tips from the last 20 videos I saw, combining them should deliver a bike that crashes the hour record on its own 😂
Go 1x on the front. Ditch the front mech, shifter, cables etc. Second hand solid chainring will be about £30. Drag to zero make a nice aero chain catcher to stop you dripping your chan. Will all help aero and clean up the bike.
About that tire gap in the back. If, no when you hit a sticky tarmac and pick up some small flint or pebbles it is going to sound like the frame split in half.
I've been there. min 5 mm I say.
Also Look says that a narrow clearance slows you down, moving surface close together thingy.
Consider drilling a small hole in each drop-out from behind and screw in a small screw to move the wheel backwards. It is standard on some frames. you might even get away with a bigger tire as mentioned below. Do not try to pull the wheel back and let the quick release hold the tire in place, it is futile.
Just had my first long ride on my classicskin Schwalbe One tubeless tires inflated to 5.5 bar.
It felt like riding on Michelin tubulars with latex inner tubes!
Since they kept their pressure after mounting ( on Fulcrum alu rims ) and inflation I didn't put the sealant in yet.
I'll wait for my first puncture to put some in (on the fly, through the valvestem).
I wax my degreased chains with paraffinwax and use Squirt when the chain starts making noise.
Rather informative video this time, keep up the good work Ollie!
Really enjoying the series Ollie.
i love this series!!! thx Oli!
This series is fantastic. WIND TUNNEL THIS BIKE 😆
Been waiting for this!!! Finally!!!
Hi Ollie, I was wondering why you aren't upgrading your brake pads, I know you don't want to be stopping but they seem like quite a good insurance policy if you do have to brake for some reason during a TT on an open road?
He is using Squirt chain lube. Good stuff.
Have you considered having your collarbones broken and reset to make your shoulders narrower and more aero, as mentioned by Michael Hutchinson in "Faster"? Expensive to have done professionally no doubt (and you'd probably need to go to Thailand or something), but you could try to bodge it at home, just get some big wrestler or bouncer to do it for you.. Would make a great GCN series, following the recovery process, aero testing before and after, etc.. 😉😂
Halo Hex Key skewers. £8, save some watts when a quick release is a pointless without a team car following you..
Hadn't seen that brake before. I've got a couple of Tri-Rig Omnis off my old Tri bike. You might find the rear brake is the bigger gain as it should reduce the negative air pressure area, in front of the head tube should make less difference. I'd do both.
mad scientist ollie and his humble P1 TT on a quest to slay the Orbea Super TT. love this series
Aha! Lube the latex !!!!!to proper install the latex tube always powder them with talcum ( silicon spray is also ok if you have some), otherwise the outer surface of the tube will "stick" to the inner surface of the tyre and the tube will stretch more on the rim tape area+ if you ride in wet conditions it also helps!
Profile Designs Aero Bars, I have the T4 Carbon bars that I bought for $140 but it looks like quarantine purchases have skyrocketed the price to $250 on amazon. They do make aluminum ones that might be worth it, or you can look on ebay for used ones.
What’s GCN opinion on tubolito
I second to this.
I've not had them once,but given the chance,I would get the S-Tubos.Uber-light,and low on the rolling resistance.
Yay it’s Ollie tt bike I thought the video usually came out on Saturday but i don’t mind
I thought ditching the front derailleur would have been an obvious first step, less is more. Something I've done in the past is, you could use some of that ABS to make aero covers for the big chainring. Nice find on the brake.
this video should be titled: 'lube and latex'
:D I liked it a lot! thank you, Ollie
Love the socks mate! Anyone else notice??
Loving the tour kom socks
Giant contact ski bars can be found new for around £20 👍🏻
loving this series. I just might get a buget TT bike aswell
Another tip for latex tube fitting is use a bit of talc as it can prevent the tube from snagging.
Where do you get talc these days? Pretty much off the market around here.
The Latex tubes leaks more air easily than butyl inner tubes. Butyl tubes is the way to go and just lose some body weight to get more wattage saved. More body strength would help too.
Hi Ollie, I'm loving this project. Can you dig deeper and find out what are the aero savings of narrower bars? Example going from 42cm to 38cm. I think this would be more important for a road bike. I look forward to your update
10:20 - Ollie, a dirty mind is a pleasure forever. Say no more !.. hehe :-)
Is that a gossamer crank? I had some ultra light butyl tubes and they do puncture easier i found. Went to slighly jeavier maxxis welterweights no problems. Had latex but they didn't hold pressure. Slightly more comfortable but not much in it.
Can you explain what rolling resistance is and how the inner tube can effect it? I get how a tyre can as that's the contact point with the road..
Friction between the inner tube and tyre. Rubber on rubber = high friction. Rubber on latex = low friction
Always coat the inside of your tires with talcumpowder to minimise this friction with the innertube.
I use a brush for it. To treat the innertube I shake it in a plastic bag with a teaspoon of the stuff.
Love your socks, Ollie♥️
I see the pedals are regular spring-based Look Keo, rather than the carbon blade. Consider putting a strip of duct tape under the pedal to smooth all that out. With a proper sharp craft knife, you can get a really flush fit.
Definitely a good watts per pound there, even if it’s half a watt across the two pedals for 10p worth of tape.
Team Sky even taped over the pedal axle bolt in the crank. Saw that on a GCN vid a while back.
Good thing you took the Squirt lable off. Not sure if this video could handle any more references haha..
If you pair ollie with his glasses and a snazzy jumper, you get a LOCAL resemblance to ollie plimpsoles from legs akimbo theatre company (great video again).
Lube & latex, also great preparation for wood in another fun activity.
Can some tekki please enlighten me, how can something on the inside effect something on the outside? I'm talking latex tubes...... how does it work, it keeps air in the tyre but its the tyre which contacts the ground.
The two surfaces (tyre and tube) are in contact, hence there is friction.
@@gabscar1thanks for the reply but I still don't get the friction inside, I think I need a little more in depth explination. The outside rolls so there is friction with the road which is obvious to me, the tube is pumped up and is solid against the inside of the tyre, how can this affect watts??
They are two separate surfaces. Think of the tube as a road surface inside the tyre which remains constant. Tubeless is smooth, latex is coarse and butyl is rough.
Have you considered using heat shrink adhesive film to skin the rear wheel? Very thin and light. Fragile but easy to patch and repair. Cheaps like a bird.
If you dont care abt weight the chrono tt bars from deda are super cool and a ton cheaper than other tt bars
I think Ollie has saved enough watt to cycle without pedaling
You mean positive watt output,from the components and not the rider.
I can't imagine that🤣
@@reapanomin899 I reckon you could do it by installing an engine.
@@randompheidoleminor3011 Oh,wait.
You've just used the "common sense" card here,of which I didn't before thinking on what to comment.
Nice one!
Hey Ollie, I'm pretty sure a larger clearance between tire/frame is actually more aerodynamic than running as close to the frame as possible. It's this idea that heavily influenced the design of the newest Trek Madone's and the specialized Shiv TT.
And the Hope track bikes and Factors TT etc - wider to separate the sources rather than compress -
Don't forget the UCI credit card check :)
Switching from butyl to latex: 10 watts saved
Switching from 25mm to 23: 800 Watts saved.
One nice thing about being locked down in a pandemic is I have all the time in the world to wax my chain!
How does inner tube affects the rolling resistance?
Wherever you have two surfaces in contact there is friction. The coefficient of friction is dependent on the material.
Maybe go to a single chainring and a wider range cassette would be a great idea: 25% less air ressistance from wires, you avoid also drag from front derailleur and one of the rings (this point I think maybe it's unvaluable), Don't remember wich drivetrain it has, but maybe Shimano 10 Speed road shifters + XTR 9 Speed (m970 or M960, second one would look better on a roadie) and you can reach a 11-34 range with 10 cogs, even to save some weight (it's not drag reducing but you also make your watts more effecitve). Other crazy but maybe effective idea is ti create a cable hiding system, something li the Tri-Rig delta Aero Cover, it hides the cables and the front brake to reduce the air drag.
Maybe as a base bar the Bulls Vuka alu, I had it in the past. It's around 250 grams, maybe depending on the width of it. Sometimes i'm using this one now on my track bike.
#askgcntech Hey Ollie! Thanks for the great content. What do you think about polyurethane innertubes? They should be as light as latex innertubes, provide the same low rolling resistance, while holding the pressure as butyl ones and providing a higher puncture protection. Also the producers claim to need less energy and have a much less water consumption during the production.
I got a “puncture” in the area right across the valve in my super light butyl tube, without seeing any holes in the tire...
Ollie I think you need to look at the dropouts as to why your tire doesnt fit. The wheel was all the way forward in the dropouts, you probably have room for 25mm tires if you pull the wheel back
proper rim tape also if gone use latex tubes
How about a 'box' behind the seatpost. Like the shiv has?!
I'd wager that a latex tube will only make your bike faster if your tyres are also super compliant. It's all down to ease of deformation at the contact point. I don't think latex will make my Schwalbe puncture proof commuter tyres any faster!
Lube and latex to make you slippery... in the wind 😜✌🏼
You should finish putting the tire where the valve is. Because you can push on the valve to avoid pinching it... believe it on not it is actually MORE important than aligning the logo ;) !!!
2:39 Just don't break. You go twice as fast and your tubes won't pop!
I tested latex against Tubolitos (not scientific) but feels that the rolling resistance is better on Tubolitos, and they are lighter too, I also smear some mineral oil to the inside of the tire that touches the the tube and it rolls better than by tubeless setup because they are lighter... Would love to see you do a review
Rear drop out is a rail so all you had to do was push the skewer back a bit in dropout and you probably could have fit up to a 28mm in there.