Fix Holes in Resin Cast Dice
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ย. 2024
- I'll quickly show you how to fill holes in your resin cast dice that either weren't filled all the way or had a surface bubble trapped in your mold. This won't fix dice with holes inside them, only on the surfaces.
Check out my web store 3DM Tabletop for all your dungeons and dragons minis, custom dice and accessories: 3dmtabletop.com
UV Curing Epoxy Resin: amazon.com/gp/...
Sanding/Polishing Paper: www.amazon.com...
Music: Going Higher (www.bensound.com)
To avoid bubbles and voids in the first place I find it beneficial to wait till at least 75% of the working time has elapsed before pouring then right after I pour I rotate the mold in my hands about 3-5 times and then put it in the pressure pot. Haven’t had a void or bubble since I started doing that.
Finally a video to help with these pesky holes!! Thank you so so much 🥰
much needed video for me in my dice making journey. Best of luck with the channel
I just wanted to say thank you for this video. I’ve had a lot of questions about bubbles in my dice and this helped a lot with fixing them. Thank you for making this video :)
Thank you I just did a beautiful paw piece and has 4 annoying bubble holes! I purchased the sanding paper through your link 😉thanks again! Stay safe.
Fantastic stuff dude, absolutely needed this and I was so heart broken over my new dice, but now it's totally good
Glad you enjoyed it!
Dude you are a lifesaver
Now I know I can work on my dominoes this way too. Thank you !!!!!
That intro gave me flashbacks to my year 8 English class where we convinced our teacher to let us watch Holes about once a week instead of actually doing any work...
Nothing wrong with 'Holes'. A film which deals with the thematic issues of outsiders, injustice, racism, fate, hope and loyalty. Loads of symbolism and a great way to teach the difference between story and plot. Book is a classic!
But, yeah keeps a class quiet and gives the teacher time to catch up on a guilty marking backlog. Those were the days eh :)
If only, if only......
Thank you! I got so discouraged when my domino boxes came out with divots all over. I'm beginning to learn there's just no way around sanding some of these things.
I have a mold in which every time I pour resin I have holes on the corners each and every time. Is there any way I can do anything so that it fills up resin all the way in?! So frustrated!
If that is the only place with holes (and consistently), it sounds like the angle of the item in the mold itself. If the corners sit above wherever your sprue is or where you fill the mold, the resin will always settle below that. That can happen if you try to make your mold with the sprue at an angle on the flat surface and it leaves one or more corners slightly higher than the fill point. I hope that makes sense, I may have to do a quick video just to illustrate that later. If there are no issues with the angle of the item in the mold, just make sure to let the resin sit for a few minutes for most of the bubbles to come up the surface and get out and then top it off or use a pipette to carefully quirt more resin in the middle to push it up.
@geek-happens Yes, actually, it's a square lid mold of a box mold and there are tears on 3 sides of the square and the 1 side where it isn't torn, resin doesn't get filled all the way into that corner. The mold came torn like that when I received it.
Would this work on a deep pour as well? Like a crystal? I made a memorial crystal for a family member for a pet and when I unmolded there were several of these and I don’t know how to fix 😭
It should, just cure it a small layer at a time. If its possible to put it back in the mold perfectly how it was, you could try mixing more epoxy resin and filling them inside the mold, but that might be more difficult. Also depends on where the holes are and how big/bad
do you just use the UV resin to fill in the bubbles? or for dice resin in generel?
Just to fill bubble holes. I use epoxy resin to make the actual dice
What do you do if the hole is in the pip to repair the pip after filling?
To clarify I have a faulty die from wizdice with a hole right in the one, but the one intact.
One tiny dab of uv resin at a time using a toothpick or pin depending on the size of hole, curing between applications. Once its about level you could then repaint it. If you happen to have that happen from one of your molds and you notice it before you take the die out, you may be able to leave it in and add more epoxy resin and put in a pressure pot, which would have probably been the ideal way to take care of my wife's big yellow one I did in the video
I wonder if you use something like a burring tool on a rotary tool in those holes before filling them if it will give it a better mechanical bond and prevent those "patches" from popping out. Players are rough with their dice, throwing them at the GM for making bad calls and such. Would hate for those things to pop out like a vein on an angry goblin's forehead!
Perhaps, I've only ever had them pop out when applying force to cut the excess down, not after it has been sanded/polished. The only thing I would worry about with the burring tools is not getting it glass-like smooth so that when you apply the filling you may see the line/edges more. If you try it, let me know how it goes :) They have been thrown over the shoulder, etc., but not strength tested against a DM or wall
@@geek-happens DMs are pretty hard headed little buggers!
Could you tell me where you got your sandpaper. I have 120 grit all the way up to 3000 grit, rubbing compound and polishing compound for plastics
I used zona wet/dry polishing paper I found on amazon www.amazon.com/37-948-Polishing-2-Inch-11-Inch-Assortment/dp/B001BHGC7G , but there are a variety of micron polishing papers you could use.
@@geek-happens hmmm I had never heard of the micron polishing paper, is it better for the resin than standard wet dry sand paper
I think so, just because it gets a finer smoother glass-like finish. You could start with your sanding papers and then finish with the polishing paper. 3000 grit is approx. 7 micron and the papers I used go from 30 micron (600 grit) to 1 micron (14000 grit)
@@geek-happens Okay so the higher the Micron number is thr bigger the grit? So it is opposite to how sandpaper is... okay good to know. Once I get paid I'll look into the Micron paper you used on Amazon and go from there. Do you use any rubbing compound then a polishing one or do you use just the micron paper?
I just use water on the micron paper. In one of my other videos (th-cam.com/video/sbSWqBW36Ww/w-d-xo.html), I show in more detail some ways I sand/polish my dice. Most of the time I just use the polishing paper by hand on a flat surface.
What grit sand papers did you use?
th-cam.com/video/yprC0lXKaFY/w-d-xo.html
30 micron, 15 micron, 9 micron, 3 micron, 2 micron, and 1 micron. I used zona wet/dry polishing paper, but if you do a quick search on amazon for micron polishing papers, you'll find lots of affordable options.
In one of my other videos (th-cam.com/video/sbSWqBW36Ww/w-d-xo.html), I show in more detail some ways I sand/polish my dice.
Okay mate! Cheers dude!
Are you using the UV over epoxy resin for repair?
Yes, I make the dice with epoxy resin
How can i avoide this holes? I don't know why it appears anyway.
It depends on a lot of things, but the best way to avoid them is to use a pressure pot and have plenty of excess resin in the mold to fill in the spaces. If you don't have a pressure pot, mix your resin slowly and apply heat every so often so there are as few bubbles as possible, also let it sit for a few minutes before pouring into your mold and using a lighter quickly and evenly over top of the resin helps get rid of bubbles currently on the surface.
uv light work for any epoxy Resin?
The uv light doesn't do anything to epoxy resin, just cures/hardens uv resin. I have used uv resin to fill holes in my dice that I have made from a variety of epoxy resins without issue.
UV resin is safe to touch?
Best to avoid it. If there's no UV around, then yes, but you'll want to wipe/wash it off. If you have some on your hands that is exposed to UV (through a window or a UV light), it burns.
@@geek-happens Thanks I just began working with resin and ended up getting an itchy bubbly rash from it about a week later so I didn't know if this resin was different. But because of your video I just bought some UV resin to fix holes and plan to be more careful about contact.
I must have got a bad batch of Limino since no matter hoe long I cure it for, the finished product is tacky. The customer service team was great they are sending me a whole new bottle since they contacted me an asked me what was happening and I sent them photos an a video of what I used howni used it and that no matter what I do or how long it is always tacky
That is nice of them. The Limino is the only kind I've tried so far and haven't had any issues yet. It was the most affordable on Amazon at the time, but there are lots of hard clear uv epoxy resin brands to choose from if that ends up not working for you
the punch line was already delivered after like.. 20 seconds - use UV resin. End of Story