Our Coppercoat Antifouling Application -DISASTER or SUCCESS? (Patrick Childress Sailing #57)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Coppercoat Antifouling is the alternative to antifouling paint we applied after an extensive blister repair job renovating our old 1976 Valiant 40 Sailboat, and then choosing and applying bottom paint to prevent marine growth. We did NOT 100% follow the instructions for this Coppercoat Application, and had a few things go wrong. Will our Coppercoat application for antifouling be a total failure? Or will the Coppercoat succeed despite some changes during the application of the Coppercoat - an antifouling epoxy with copper powder in it? If it is successful, Coppercoat may relieve us of applying antifouling paint for a decade or more. We will review the following points about the application of Coppercoat in this video:
1: Why Coppercoat
2: Mistakes Applying Coppercoat
3: Complications during Coppercoat application and how we overcame them
4: Removing antifouling to Prepare surface for Coppercoat: • Copper Coat 2 years on
5: Blister Repair, and Applying Epoxy Resin barrier coat
6: Mixing the Coppercoat, including Adding Isopropyl Alcohol, copper powder and Coppercoat
7: Rolling on the Coppercoat (We did not spray Coppercoat)
8: Burnishing/Sanding the Coppercoat after application
9: Results from Coppercoat Application -Failure or Success?
10: Future review of Coppercoat
We do hope our diy Coppercoat application will be successful, but it may just be a failure, another antifouling nightmare. Everyone we know with Coppercoat raves about it, but the negative videos we have seen go a long way to worry us about our own diy Coppercoat application...we hope our mistakes don’t prove to be a failure. Please feel free to contact us years from now if you are watching this video years after we have released it to ask us about it, and we will give you a reference to a later video, or send a personal email if we haven’t done one yet.
We did the application of this Coppercoat Antifouling ourselves, with the help of some unskilled laborers off the street, as well as some semi-skilled and skilled laborers from Fleet Management at Zululand Yacht Club/Boatyard, always under the direction and supervision of Patrick Childress. Antifouling the hull of a sailboat successfully is a constant quest for us..one we may never find! We do believe we will have to continue scrubbing the bottom on a monthly basis to remove marine growth!
Also, for those curious...the cost of Coppercoat. We had always thought it was a job that cost tens of thousands of dollars. Because we did it diy and hired some semi skilled laborers, it cost us under $2000 usd for everything, labor and materials...so not much more than a good quality antifouling paint. We would have tried it decades ago if we had known it has such potential for very long term protection!
Prices & Buy @ www.coppercoatu...
Coppercoat Installations that we found interesting:
Briticans latest Coppercoat Video: • CopperCoat Antifouling...
Briticans Anger over the improper application of Coppercoat : • CopperCoat Antifouling...
SV Totems very successful Coppercoat Application (done by teenagers)! (Blog)
www.sailingtot...
What we hope our hull looks like after a few years with Coppercoat:
• Coppercoat customer af... (5 years) Or • Copper Coat 2 years on (2 years)
Other Coppercoat Reviews, Coppercoat applications, etc Videos:
• Coppercoat Application
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DISCLAIMER We take no responsibility for anything you do or don’t do in connection with what you have learned in this video or on this channel. Read all tool manuals and thoroughly understand their use and safety precautions before using. Using power tools, electricity and chemicals of all kinds present significant danger and if you don’t accept all responsibility to the safety of your person and vessel, hire a professional and cross your fingers that they know the details of a Coppercoat application!
#Coppercoat #antifouling #PatrickChildressSailing
Do you agree that our Coppercoat application will be a success? Please leave a comment below...
Have you used Coppercoat antifouling?
Would you like to see video from one of the many guys we interviewed that have used Coppercoat happily for many years...it was too long and off topic to include that Coppercoat review in this diy video, but let us know if you would like to see that soon.
Please ask any question you have about our Coppercoat application or its future success if you are watching this months or years from now about whether it turned out a success or a failure...Certainly that will tell us if the application of Coppercoat can tolerate some variation in its application
Please let us know your vote...so you think we will have a failure or success with this application of Coppercoat?
Great news to hear of your Coppercoat success. We hope we will be able to say the same. It sounds likr our situations wwre similar in that we had to do a major blister job...so it was a good time to apply Coppercoat! There are some bad applications of it out there, and of course the failures always make the headlines, but of all the people we have spoken directly to, Coppercoat has been a success on the majority of boats. But a bad application of Coppercoat can really send people running when whatever the applicators applied probably would have been a failure! -Rebecca
@Joseph Johnson What do you gently scrub the Coppercoat with?
Your hull really looks great....super fair and smooth!
That's interesting about recommending finer sandpaper to burnish the coat. From what others have written, glossy varnish resists mildew better than satin because the smooth surface makes it difficult for the mildew to get a foothold. Sounds like the same thing with coppercoat.
I've been thinking I would try it with my project boat, but it sounds as though finding enough people willing to help could be an issue for me.
There is something in the video that has me puzzled: at 8:30, there are what appear to be strips, raised areas, on the port side of the rudder. Are my eyes playing tricks on me?
Patrick Childress Sailing sailing Britican had some issues with their coppecoat, they redid it 3 times, and now waiting for the last layers result. Edit. And you addressed that already 👍🏼
Yes. We think that was an application error...and we pray that we didn’t make the same mistakes that the pros did. At least if we did, it didn’t cost us 10-15k!! Their second application was really an application ...it was a patch job and the patches worked. So it was just the original Coppercoat application that was the problem. Application is everything with Coppercoat and fingers crossed the issues we had were overcome properly. -Rebecca
Glad yall are back in the water. I wouldnt have used Coppercoat. It seems too complicated to install. I have been following sailing Britican as well. What a nightmare. You above all people should have the correct technique to apply it though. If you cant do it, nobody can do it. Most of us out here in youtube land are just Hacks. However, I dont even trust a boat yard to do a good job either. I sure hope yours works as expected.
Pate, I know of a boat owner who recently had traditional antifouling applied to his boat in Malaysia. After one week, the paint was peeling off in sheets. I would not trust boat yards to do anything unless I was standing there watching every moment.
pate allan 2.5 months later I have to say it’s overwhelmingly better than the boats next to us, some that were launched weeks after us. So maybe not as picky as we were afraid of. But the true test will be in a few years or a decade. Though usually our bottom paint is almost failed by now. So this is a good sign we may have a Coppercoat success! -Rebecca
natural mohair has natural oils in it. hence the lack of full compatibility. synthetic for water base products is the safe way to go.
Exactly what Patrick surmised. Coppercoat should put that in the instructions....South Africa quite proud that they use “genuine mohair” on their rollers, and it’s what the boatyard recommended to use...who had applied Coppercoat in the past with it. But we were not excited about it, for the same reason you mention, so hence why we decided to use the smaller foam rollers to apply the Coppercoat. -Rebecca
Interesting video Patrick. We are trying to decide whether we should go with Coppercoat for our Moody.
Hope it’s helpful. We did do a Coppercoat antifouling update on our website about what it was like after 7 weeks of sitting in this mucky harbor...and it’s doing well. Not that 7 weeks is the sign of success...but at least it isn’t failing already. So our confidence level has risen greatly in that this Coppercoat will work for us!
I think the most important point to remember about Coppercoat is to make sure you thoroughly understand every bit of the instructions. Download the detailed Coppercoat application instructions from your reseller... Coppercoat USA in our case as well as Coppercoat UK’s instructions. Understand them 100%. Ask questions if you see a conflict of information or something that isn’t crystal clear for you. Consider a diy application of Coppercoat...or if you will hire the pros, assume that they may be forgetting some steps and get a firm understanding of the procedures with them. Don’t assume the doctor knows it all!
Good luck with your decision on which antifouling paint to go with! Send us an update...-Rebecca
Patrick Childress Sailing Thanks guys!
I think that the more alcohol you put in , the faster the copper will separate from the "paint"
I don’t know…
Just because one lowly TH-camr decides not to read the instructions, it doesn't mean you have to be as dumb as him lol. You were right to stick with the foam rollers. When people don't follow or read instructions, it's not because they know something that you don't. It's because they're arrogant and careless.
Yes...important to read the Coppercoat instructions for sure to apply Coppercoat. Even if you have a professional apply the Coppercoat, you must know every single tool, and process they are using to make sure it’s done right.
We are starting to think that the Coppercoat instructions are guidance, but as long as you are following the basic instructions, and using your brain, it will be OK.
We didn’t apply the Coppercoat exactly according to the instructions, and it seems 2+ months later, that it’s working perfectly...compared to other boats that were painted and launched AFTER us with the best antifouling paint that the yard could offer. Ours is growing nothing..theirs at the same two or three places, already has a 5 inch beard all the way around. -Rebecca
From my experience, coppercoat is a very effective antifoul bottom paint. And I would say you’re good to go for many years, it don’t look like it’ll fail. What appears to be most important is you have to prep your bottom really well, which you did. So yes, coppercoat is expensive, but if you consider this cost for at least 10 years it’s not more expensive than paints that you need to change every year. For the last 5 years all I had to do on my boat was to wipe the hull with a green pad once a year, and never had vegetation or anything else (my boat is in France so in not so warm water yet). The only problem I had with it was with galvanic corrosion, my center board showed real corrosion after 4 years, so you need anodes everywhere possible. I’m so happy with this product that I think I’ll do the same to my new boat next year. I hope you’ll be as lucky as I was with this product :)
Great to hear of your success with Coppercoat. You are right about the importance of a nice smooth boat bottom in preparation for Coppercoat. And that we certainly had! We are happy to hear that in your opinion the snags we ran in to won’t bother the success of our Coppercoat. It’s speaks volumes that you will apply Coppercoat to your next boat too.
And it doesn’t tha energy to be more expensive than any other bottom paint...well, 50% more I would say. But the years and decades you get from it..to think traditional antifouling paint is cheaper is being penny wise and pound foolish! -Rebecca
Brick House was already in the water when we went for that meal so the anti foul had most certainly been applied!
🙏Rest In Peace 🙏
Yes
Greetings froom.colombia south america
scr5051 Hello! Do you have a Coppercoat applicator there in Columbia, or would you do Coppercoat diy on your sailboat? -Rebecca
Very informative video (as always)! I watched the Britican videos also - hopefully yours will work out. In any case, by the time I get out there enough people will have had experience with the product that I can build upon.
There seems to be a "glitch" in the Tip Jar... I'll try again later.
Thanks for trying...wonder what it is...let us know if it doesn’t work on your next try. You can always just use my email address and PayPal...I think you have it from prior correspondence. Thanks as always for your support..you have supported us from the beginning*, and we greatly appreciate that! -Rebecca
I may be showing my ignorance here... but does the resin only work its way to the exterior of the hull? Or is there blistering on the interior as well?
We have never found any blisters on the inside of the hull, or on the deck or cockpit either. -Rebecca
good good, great video, congratulations, I'm a fan of you here in Brazil.
Thanks so much Vitor. Do you have Coppercoat in your part of the world? -Rebecca
Another great video thanks guys!
Brick House is looking real good in this video you have done a great job on her by the looks of it.
Thank you Smeggy. It has been a ton of work but it would not have gotten to that point without the help of most of the people you see in this video. I really like working with these guys; they keep a synergy going.
Coppercoat's extremely specific but unexplained instruction quirks almost seem like they are creating reasons for claiming their failures are application errors. We do a lot more horror stories than praise.
It is surprising their instructions are rather thin. Hopefully this video will help out Coppercoat and anyone thinking about applying Coppercoat. We do find manufacturers instructions to not always be correct. We like our Kiwiprop but the manufacturers instructions are that you don't have to prime the Zytel blade prior to applying antifouling. From experience, I found that to not be correct. We now always prime those blades when using traditional antifouling. Now I follow the Propspeed directions for metal when treating the plastic blades and put them through the same etching primer process, with good results. Some of these manufacturers need to listen more to users in the field.
the best things when copper coating it make sure you properly keyed (primed) you hull.
the main reason the recommend foam and not hair roller, is once a certain amount of copper has impregnated the foam it will help evenly spread for better results.
But hair rollers will constantly pull copper off the hull and move it around in clumps. the hair also has a tendency of just not rolling so you get an uneven spread if you use the roller for too long. as well as bits of hair getting stuck onto the hull which will give growth something to grip.
coppercoat is love or hate.
Love: if applied properly youll only need to take the boat out of the water for a pressure was once and a while. as well as not having to apply antifouling for the next 10+ years. good for long term in the water vessels.
Hate: copper coating is rather expensive to both apply and remove if not applied properly and must be removed to try again
its almost the price of antifouling for the next 10+ years.
We did all the Coppercoat prep and application ourselves, with helpers. That was far less the cost than paying a contractor to do the work. Apparently, with one ailed Coppercoat application which the Coppercoat company went out to resolve, they just sanded the existing Coppercoat to give tooth for the new application, then primed the surface with the epoxy resin with no copper mixed in. While that priming coat was tacky, they started the new Coppercoat application. Thanks for your good information and comment.
Job well done. Congrats on getting back in the water! Looking forward to the long-term review. ~sv Keeldragger/v40 #278
Yes...we are looking forward to seeing how Coppercoat works or doesn’t work :) Patrick thinks it’s should still be successful, so we will see.
Finally - fair winds.
Yes. Finally is right! It’s hard to believe we have already been sitting at this dock after our haulout, for nearly 7 weeks. Patrick is gonna jump in this murky water this weekend and have a feel around (since it’s impossible to see in this water) and see if he can get a peak at how the Coppercoat is doing!-Rebecca
Yes, it has been a long haul here in the boat yard. Next weather window we will be off to Cape Town.....but Rebecca has lined up even more boat work for me..lithium batteries. The work never ends.
Great video :-) Very informative...
Thanks for watching...let us know what you think...success or failure? -Rebecca
@@RVLifeNOW I have no idea... I am just in the process of getting informed about Copper Coat... I've heard horror stories, but I don't listen to them without reservations... I'm interested in seeing an update from you, on how well it's working... :-) That, I'm sure, will take time... See you then :-)
@@RVLifeNOW Well... This won't take long - Did it... lol I have learned that all of the Coppercoat Horror stories, were from poorly applied coppercoat... Done right, it should last 15 - 25 years... Awesome! I expect that your next video on the subject will reveal how well you applied the stuff... and the results you experience... Looking forward to your next assessment of the job... :-)
We will be checking the Coppercoat frequently because we know people will be curious...as will we. Patrick is already itching, just 6-7 weeks in, to dive down in to this murky water that you can’t see further than 3 inches in, to explore the bottom of the boat, to see how the Coppercoat is doing. But it’s too soon to really know. But every antifouling is good after a month or two, right? The question is after a year or two! But if it’s a disaster now, I suppose there is little hope for its future, so better to find out now I guess.
Knowing Patrick as I do, the Coppercoat will succeed just becuase he knows this stuff..he knows what he is looking at, and knows when the instructions shouldn’t be followed, knows how to work around complications because he did sort of this kind of thing for a living in another lifetime. But I am a “by the book” kind of gal, so I am a little doubtful regardless. Everything says follow the directions exactly on the Coppercoat website and Coppercoat instructions...and we could not...did not...so I’m a bit nervous. Not that it’s any big skin off our back if it only works for a year or two. NO bottom paint lasts longer than that anyways. If we get more out of it than that, it will ALL be frosting! But we hear so many success stories when we really start digging and asking around boatyards, a girl can’t be blamed for hoping, even if things gave us a bit of a struggle. Could we do less than Coppercoat applicators that don’t care half as much as we do? -Rebecca
@@RVLifeNOW Skepticism is warranted... I too do not believe everything I read and having followed Patrick for some time, I am confident, he's more than capable... Looking forward to your next report :-) Btw, I have already recommended this procedure to other sailors... based on this video... :-)
Patrick,that was intense! I’m about to do a bottom job as well. So glad I got to see this and that you took the hard effort to film and cover the project, literally. Cheers! 🍹
Glad it was helpful. It was a lot of work to film it so always happy to hear it may be of help to someone today ;) The far bigger project was digging out, patching and faring all the resin blisters. Incredible amounts of local labor, and mine, went into that part of our haul out. I am editing that video now, which should be ready in a couple of weeks.
Hi Patrick & Rebecca! Great video on the Coppercoat. That product looks so pretty on a boat! I hope it works out and it appears you did the best you could considering the circumstances plus you had a pretty good crew helping you. Look forward to seeing videos showing how the CC is holding up on Brick House. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks David. We do have high hopes for the Coppercoat.....Rebecca will shoot me if it does not work out, as it was all in my hands.
Haha.nope not a chance I will kill him over a Coppercoat Application! He did the very best with the situations as they occurred. Now we will all know if the mistakes that the original applicators of Briticans Coppercoat made small mistakes intelligently...or if they made major blunders. I am afraid that we made enough mistakes during our application of it that we are going to have a failed Coppercoat application. But if it succeeds, then that says to me at least that that original Coppercoat installer really made some major mistakes OR that Britican has a unique problem on their boat that is inhibiting the effectiveness of the a Coppercoat epoxy. -Rebecca
I'm crewing on Britican right now. The boat is in the water for a month and a half and there is hardly any growth on the hull.
I think this time the CC is going to work, I hope it works for you as well.
Great to have an up to the minute update on their Coppercoat. Have a great sail and say hi for us.
@@RVLifeNOW I'll give you an other update in two weeks just before I have to get back home.
Dutch Globetrotter , hi , I am thinking of buying a wonderful wooden topsail schooner about 60/70 feet . Say hi to all on Britican and ask how is the kangaroo going.
Thanks...we would love to hear how Briticans Coppercoat is going before you leave. It seems like with Coppercoat UK right there doing the whole job it has to work! I really think it was just the first application of Coppercoat that was done wrong. Everything after that worked, including the patches that Coppercoat US came out and supervised. It’s a shame that first application went so wrong because it really brought some negative attention to Coppercoat. 122k people watched the first video, and then so few watched the videos after to see the follow up information. And probably nobody will watch the success of it. So many people like to see the failures of a product. But are videos often made of the successes of a boring product that remains underwater on the hull of a boat all its life, like Coppercoat? I’d like to think we will make follow up videos on the review of Coppercoat..but in reality, it may drop off our radar...I hope it does ;) But Patrick is quite interested to see if his diversions from the directions will cause the Coppercoat to fail or succeed, and why. He really wants to get to the bottom of the Coppercoat failures so there doesn’t have to be anymore. Aquarius Marine Coatings who makes Coppercoat May just be so tunnel visioned that they may not be understanding the failures properly, and with Patrick’s experimenting, they may get new insight.I think that’s why Patrick is so focused on this. He would like to be the one to find out WHY Coppercoat fails sometimes. He loves that kind of discovery. -Rebecca
Your boat is looking fantastic!
Thank you. It has been a long, intense, grind, but I will now feel much more confident while crossing oceans in this boat. We have a bunch of video material from this haul out. Thanks for your comment.
Nice job and Good Luck with Copper Coat. I think the secret to success is doing it right and having reasonable expectations.
I have met happy and not so happy owners to boats with copper coat. The big difference has been owners expectations. The ones that understand that diving and keeping the slime is part of the deal off are happy. The ones that think nothing has to be done in the next 10 years will be very disappointed.
On our prop and shaft, we applied Propspeed, as we have done in the past. It seems boat owners have the same unreasonable expectations about that product, thinking it is a magic product which eliminates all maintenance. Where we will be heading in the next couple years, the water is very cold so, hopefully, I won't have to get in the water so frequently, with the Coppercoat and Propspeed.
That's a fine video, fingers crossed for a great long lived effective job.
Thanks, Soggy. We have been sitting in this very nutrient rich estuary water for 6 weeks now. Part of the prep for departing in a few days for Cape Town was to go into this muck water, with 4 inches of visibility and give the hull a wipe with a large, flat, soft sponge. I worked more by feel. What little I could see and what I could feel, everything is appearing to be working as it should. There were 3 little barnacles on the hull, at the tight junction where the drive shaft enters the hull. Actually I was happy to see and feel those barnacles as it shows what could have happened if the Coppercoat was a fail on the rest of the hull. The wipe with the sponge took a fraction of the time it would have taken to clean traditional antifouling free of sediments and whatever.
It will be fantastic to see your voyage either through Tristan D'Acugnna and the Malvinas or the northern rout to Tierra del Fuego and rounding the Horne
I am not so sure about the Horn, as the Beagle Channel is much easier. But there is a charter boat out of Ushuaia, that makes a run around the Horn and back....maybe we will do it that way. Best to beat up someone else's boat.
Hi Patrick- Wondering, how does the hired help in these other countries take learning new processes than they are used to, how do they take criticism, and especially the guys you had to pull off the job?
It really seems no different than in the U.S. or elsewhere. People grow up with no hands on experiences, or tools in their hands, so everything is new to them. Many are intelligent and very capable of learning so it just takes a little time and instruction. They are very receptive to instruction,especially because there is a very high unemployment rate. I have helped along several local guys here who now have full time jobs working in this boat yard. They are the hard workers who, at times, I wondered how they could keep working so hard all day long. There are men who just did not work out, like anywhere. The two guys who were shifted away from the rollers have previously showed their skills on other projects. We just could not take the time to teach some roller skills. My boat was not the place to practice. It all turned out for the better as they were given jobs that were unforeseen, yet very important....like keeping the copper in suspension in the roller pan.
@@RVLifeNOW I love that you were supporting the local labour and encouraging them while they learned new skills. You 'taught a man to fish' as they say!
Pulling that tape is such a joyous occasion. (And I'm so glad that someone besides me does the Hope/Horn/Hope/Horn thing)
Thanks for that. I’m not sure I will ever get that down, even after I sail both of those capes! I just HOPE, that I can blow a HORN after I sail around both of these capes with a clean boat bottom!! -Rebecca
Heh.. I kinda prefer the original name.. Cape of Storms.
How much did the copper coat cost not counting the labor?
The Coppercoat itself cost $1750 usd for the 11 kits for our 40 foot boat. Materials for the application of the Coppercoat costed under $200. Labor was additional.
Patrick Childress Sailing I was just on Britican blog and there total cost was 11700$, there was surely something else done at the same time. Thanks for sharing
This shows how it can be very worth while to get your hands dirty and do the work yourself with helpers. Delos showed, on one haul out, how much money they saved by doing their own haul out work rather than throwing money at contractors, who often times one pays to screw a boat up rather than do the expected good job.
Their cost included professional preparation and application..ie the labor. If you go to www.coppercoatusa.com the prices are on there, and an estimator for how much Coppercoat your boat would need. Ours needed 11 kits to cover correctly. Briticans boat...not sure what size it was...but I know for sure they didn’t do it themselves. We did it ourselves and hired some $15 per day guys to help us under Patrick’s supervision and direction. -Rebecca
@@RVLifeNOW Delos spend nearly 50k on a new bottom coating whose SLICK attributes insured no sea growth would ever be able able to stick to their bottom. Live and learn.
Great job and a great video! I particularly liked your excellent step by step narrative and the details. Fair winds and thanks again!
Thanks for joining us, Panzer.
Patrick and wife.
I think your process was completely appropriate, in lew of conditions and weather , also a hardy , cheers for doing the work that you have in , well , less than first world sheltered and air-conditioned boat yards . Says an awful lot about you two's fortitude. Again, cheers . From California..fair winds folks.
Thank you, William. It was a long difficult haul out but Brick House is far better for it. Emanuel, Sip, Sipo and Telanti, as well as some of the others who spent time on this project, were great synergy to get me going, and keep the process going, pretty much 7 days a week till complete.
thanks for putting this up, very informative.
Thanks..
A little bit of an update is in the latest video…
hi guys the problems you had with the epoxy and cleaning it can be avoided by using MAS epoxies they are great no blush no was no need to clean
we apply copper coat and we do add the alcohol we also mix in some virgin copper into that sent by copper coat as there is reclaimed gives us a lighter finish
but good luck on your next trip
The cleaning is to get rid of sanding dust, which is created no matter what sort, or brand of resin, is used.
I think it’s sweet you didn’t fire anyone you just gave them an easier job for their skill level.
thanks ashley. Yes patrick was a good boss :)
I love the concept. Been watching it for years on message boards. My opinion right now is there are just too many 'gotcha's' in the application process. There are just too many ways one can make it so the product doesn't work. It would be nice if Coppercoat or a competitor modified the formulation so that it was far easier to apply with a greater certainty of success.
I think they just need better instructions with better explanations.
My father had coppercoat applied by pro's ,although not cheap he said it was the best money on maintenance he ever spent .He sold the boat after 8yrs of use with this product ,he said there was very little difference in its condition at the day of sale apart from where he had had remedial work after minor marks and damage .
It is good to hear the positive stories. The negative make the news more often but we hear so many stories such as yours. Thanks.
Did you take moisture readings of the Hull before applying epoxy ,going by the photos and the drills holes with water coming from them the hull . It is saturated with water, what will happen next more blistering will appear all over the hull and the epoxy and copper coat will fall off.
Is this really Lex?Twice, since 1976, this boat has been treated for resin blisters. Each time the blisters returned yet nothing fell off....unfortunately. It would have been nice if the layers of bottom paint would have fallen off instead of taking weeks to remove it by hand.
Yes, I took a lot of moisture readings and over 5 months watched the numbers drop. Read up on moisture meters and it seems they are not that much use, really, as they can produce a lot of false numbers. But in my case, the meter was useful to show a change....and a pleasant one at that.
From your description, it sounds like this has happened to you. Please tell us more about your experience.
Love your cat head. Funny thing is the cat head helps with the anchor on tall ships.
By the way, I went sailing with Simon and Kim And Sienna( and how is your kangaroo going on Britican) on SailingBritican and had a wonderful time. They really know what they are doing and talking about. I would recommend them to anyone who wants to try sailing and see what’s it’s all about. I had a very wonderful time with then.
Yes out little Coati likes to be the center of everything...even in a video about Coppercoat ;) Glad you enjoyed your time with Britican. They seem like a nice family, and I think this time with the proper application, their Coppercoat should be a success. The problem wasn’t with the product...it was with the Coppercoat application. What exactly is still a mystery...wouldn’t want to be the owner of that original boatyard...but it was the application...not the Coppercoat product itself....I’m glad that they have it sorted out. If they don’t this time...then there is something happening with the boat itself. Coppercoat works on too too many boats for it to be the product this many times in a row. And if this application of it doesn’t work this time...then there is some mystery third situation happening! I hope and pray it works for them now! -Rebecca
Coppercoat Antifouling is a no go! Their marketing is very good, the product, not so good. Spoken to a few boat owners, some of them will say run! I hope it works out for you.
Thanks for the comment. Now after 4 months we see how it’s working. It is working unbelievable great! I personally am pretty surprised. But there is NO growth at the waterline to this day, and when Patrick dove a few weeks ago to wipe off the bottom of slime, he filmed our neighbors boat, as well as ours. Nothing short of a miracle! Slime but not growth that needed anything more than a wipe with a soft sponge. The other boat that had what was considered the top of the line traditional antifouling at the same yard, launched 2 weeks after us, had so much growth the owner wanted to cry....and it was NOT easy to get it off at all. He had a 5 inch beard at his waterline and barnacles and tough to remove growth...Patrick is making a video about the Coppercoat and the Propspeed results right now...make sure to subscribe to see it yourself in a week or two! We have met happy Coppercoat owners all over the world now...it’s definitely NOT just marketing! But there have been some pretty crappy applications of it, and it MUST be applied properly. There IS room for error on some things, but in general...it MUST be done properly!!!-Rebecca
Just wait! Look out for bubbles in the water line or just below the waterline. One of the biggest yacht service yard in the UK stopped recommending and working with them due to that. The product sounds good, it might work in some regions, but it will never be applied to my vessel.
@@MogleCorp I am very interested in this. What causes the bubbles? Are they big bubbles, little bubbles, many, a few. There is a lot you are not saying which would be very important information.
@@RVLifeNOW I would file this under "I know a guy". I think you are right, goof up the application and ya it will not work. Do it right and you're fine. Certainly keeping the copper in suspension is key, getting it flat and smooth and sanding completely are important. Unfortunately very fussy and time consuming requirements and for the slap it on ablative guys never going to happen. .
Patrick, I really appreciate your honesty and the way you narrate your video. You did a great job. keep up the great work. Happy sailing
Thank you very much, nogaffin, such comments are greatly appreciated.
I love this blog, i left my native SA a long time ago, but in my student years i used to work in a factory building houseboats alongside incredibly skilled men who trained on the job and did an excellent job at fiberglass, cabinet making and vacuum press lamination and moulding. I miss those days and that awesome team
Thanks so much. You come from a wonderful country, no doubt...
How do horseshoe crabs exist she wondered to herself. Whether it is less work bottom-scubbing or not, doesn't it look fabulous? And agonising whether it is worth the effort and expense is an age-old sailing tradition.
Sailing always has a price
Could you not spray it on the boat the copper coat ?
Yes you can spray it but not as easy as paint because of copper settling and drying time etc. but it’s definitely possible.
Aww :( This was on my front page of youtube today..
Ok nice! Thanks for watching it!
@@RVLifeNOW seen it before, but Patrick :( 😥
No experience with coppercoat . I am only learning glassfibre application now.
Coppercoat is working well on AV Brick House.
Congratulations!👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻😁😁😁 About freaking time!
Thanks, nobody. It has been a long haul out of the water but all for the better so we can safely cross more oceans. It took us a while to finally discover Coppercoat. For some reason I always thought it was a $20,000 application that could only be applied by certified professionals. Turns out diy is totally allowed, and often preferably to professionals who don’t read the copper coat instructions! -Rebecca
Is Coppercoat better than normal antifouling bottom paint?
Yes I think I would say yes to that…easy to wipe off with a sponge, as long as you do a pressure wash every 12-18 months.
@@RVLifeNOW Wouldn't it come off when you scrubbed the bottom of the boat?
No..it’s a very hard product..epoxy in fact. Not thing but growth seems to come off…
@@RVLifeNOW Amazing! ⛵
Mads in saillife has a good video about this subject
I watched his application video a while back.
@@RVLifeNOW also... cat videos sir, they are the ticket to awesomeness😉
You mean our little 6 month old 8 pound little African cat Coati? We wonder if we got a baby tiger by mistake ;) He’s gonna be a monster...His nickname is Naughty Coati! -Rebecca
When you buy 90% alcohol at a pharmacy, what is the other 10%? And what residue is left when using pure alcohol?
Grenadine, lemon concentrate, spoon of sugar and a splash of 7-UP. Anything that gets spilled leaves a stick residue.
@@RVLifeNOW That's funny! No, I meant some 90% alcohols are rubbing alcohol, and may contain stuff like castor oil and other chemicals that might not be conducive to adhesion. Alcohol and acetone are quite hydrophilic, they can absorb moisture and quickly become dilute and ineffective. None of the materials used around glass fibre are very good for you. We always kept everything bone dry, requires heavy duty extraction vacuums with filter bags, still a miserable job, hand lay up repairs to blisters. A boat is a hole in the water you throw money into.
What a beautiful looking vessel. I like your style of video, very honest report
Thank you for that nice compliment...we think she is looking pretty nice too with her new paint on the topsides and new Coppercoat on the bottom :) We hope it will work. Patrick took a look yesterday underwater (4 inch visibility) but of course it’s only been 6 or 7 weeks..everything should do well in that short time. This is a very bad area for marine growth...in other words...very nutrient rich and stuff grows fast. There was one area that was nearly impossible to get the Coppercoat on to, and it had barnacles...so I guess that stands as an example of what it could have been. But the rest of the hull just easily wipeable slime, so it’s not a complete, immediate Coppercoat failure at least. In a year we will see if it is a success...2 years...4 years...will post reports on our blog at the very least. -Rebecca
Patrick Childress Sailing Thank you Rebecca for making contact. I am considering copper coat on the strength of your report and have lodged an inquiry - I am in Australia and our conditions would be not dissimilar to yours (still?) in Sth Africa.
It’s amazing how many emails about Coppercoat we have received, and comments we have gotten. It seems like the failures on any product, marine or otherwise, really make the news.... and it seems like everyone has seen Briticans Coppercoat video...But for every failure of Coppercoat, there are so many happy satisfied owners that don’t even watch or comment on antifouling videos and forums anymore because Coppercoat has taken antifouling right off their topics of interest. When it works, which seems to be 95% or more of the time, it’s all good. But I suppose if it didn’t work, especially if you paid a professional to apply it, it would be hugely irritating and you would want to tell the world of your bad review of Coppercoat!
Some products are more forgiving than others, traditional antifouling...it doesn’t often matter...apply it right or wrong, it still doesn’t work for more than a year. But Coppercoat applied right seems to really do the trick for a decade or more! Nothing ventured, nothing gained. -Rebecca
All our old local waterman use copper coat on their boats. My Dad had a 42' deadrise pilot boat/dive boat and it held up very well for 5 years. At haulout we light sanded it clean and allied another coat. It's the layer buildup that helps. The more actual copper content the better, it also helps eliminate electralisis.
Good to hear another positive copper coat review ;) -Rebecca
I wouldn't think it would work well on carvel or strip-plank boats which are galvy fastened.
Enjoyed the video
Thanks for watching and your nice comment.
If the copper is encapsulated in epoxy, I don't see how the copper is going to keep marine growth from forming on the hull.
After application, that is why it is necessary to sand the surface to expose the copper.
The epoxy resin very slowly erodes exposing the copper which is anti-growth. It becomes green as the copper oxidises and that is slowly eaten away exposing the resin to be eroded and so on. Coppercoat say it lasts for 10 years but frequently it last well longer than this. I saw a boat with a bright green copper coated hull after 18 years. It only needs burnishing after the application, not again.
How conductive is this copper coat?
None at all. Another commenter recently asked Coppercoat that question as it might be a good grounding plane for various reasons....but, being encased in epoxy, there is no conductivity.
I had wooden sailboat 5 years in a row, and did copper coating every preseason. I have never seen or did, such extraordinary complex tedius job as you did here. Coppercoat is all about layers, quantity of material And doing it fast. Absolutly no sanding afterwards. Flop it on asap, deep layers. Almost wet on wet. Can go semi-dried back into sea. Thats how its done in adriatic. Never did coppercoat in more than two days. 3 layers coat.
I always used monocomponent copper coating, unlike your 3 component. Why I do it every season? Its wood. If I do it every season, its out only for 3 days, and I dont need to sand anything off. Just a fast detail, hand sanding, and on with copper. On fiberglass boats, its done every second season. I rather pay for lifting, then do any kind of sanding. And every season, I have the sleakest bottom possible. And an easy job about it.
Janez, it sounds like you have something quite different than this epoxy vehicle I used in this video.
I hope it works for your needs. Its not the same material, i agree. But works on the same idea. Shouldnt be that different in use.
I wish you calm seas, and long lasting copper coat ;)
Congratulations on getting her back in the water. It’s been a looooong time!
Thanks, atschris. It has been a very long haul out and very long working days. But the boat is far better than when it rolled out of the factory and ready to cross more oceans...even way down south to Tierra Del Fuego. We should be leaving Richards Bay for Cape Town in 2 days.
Yahoo..two days Hoping this Coppercoat application is successful and lasts a decade so we don’t have to do this again for a long time! -Rebecca
Happy New Year Patrick and Rebecca! Brick House is looking Good!
Thanks Sonny! Patrick wants to go down and take a look at the Coppercoat ...like he can see something in this murky water...but at least we might see if it’s a total disaster or is at least working as well as other antifouling would be at this stage. -Rebecca
@@RVLifeNOW OK Please have patrick do a follow-up video on the coppercoat. I am in the midst of a repower and just completed the bottom job all work being done by me. It is so satisfying seeing the completed job.
Ok will do a Coppercoat Video Review and happy new year to you too! ...and will let you know personally right here how his look goes in a few days too...if anyone else wants to know...please comment below.-Rebecca
now is a great time to buy copper since its down 4 points
I would think the people who make all the antifouling coatings are stocking up on it.
Hi Patrick and Rebecca,
I think that you were lucky to have had the extra days for the coppercoat to cure. Whenever someone complains about how difficult it is to sand an epoxy coat that they applied, I ask if they have given the epoxy sufficient time to Cure. Whether they use fast hardener or slow hardener, it still takes most epoxies 3 days to cure enough to sand effectively. Before that, the paper will just clog immediately.
And it is Very common for inexperienced people to UNDERMIX epoxies, or to not allow sufficient time for reactive sites to be found, both of which lead to an UNsandable coat. So a Maximum mix time of two minutes just doesn't sound logical to me, and "the copper won't settle out" sounds equally improbable. Not to mention the people who are volumetrically challenged, and think Any Ratio is a Good Ratio...being casual about ratios will pretty much ensure failure.
I would be reluctant to recommend anything other than what the manufacturer recommends, and I really have little experience with water-based epoxies. However, I would also feel like a complete idiot if my first pass sanding new epoxy was with 320. I guess they don't want you to remove everything you just put on, like the trailing edges, but it sounds counter intuitive to me.
From a Marine Professional (who quit the painting part decades ago), I wish to comment on your statement about how hiring a Professional was the wrong way to go. I do not agree that it's the wrong thing to do, but I wouldn't want any professional working on anything if they don't care about your boat. And a lot of them Don't. Working with your crew in SA seems like the best way I can imagine. You gathered as much info as possible before starting, but once you're actually doing it you have to be ready to adapt to whatever comes up.
I like your idea about using a different color for the final substrate epoxy; I actually like to use a different color for each Batch sometimes as well. Then you can tell exactly which epoxy was applied when. In Brick House's case, that would be modified to mean different layers, not batches, but it makes for some very strange looking projects, what with all those colors. The upside of course is people think I'm crazy and don't bother me asking for advice; rather they keep their distance. You get so much more Done.
Let's face it, I'm a Dinosaur: I believe in VOC's. I believe in shit like NAPTHA, PAINT THINNER (oops am I yelling?) that Doesn't have acetone in place of the turps, I love 333, Magic Magoosalum and all that illegal stuff. If I were to lay a teak deck, I'd probably lay it on TARPAPER, God forbid. Like for painting wood, I believe in OIL Based paint. Wood contains oil and once it has drawn its oil from the paint it is time to put some more oily paint on the wood. Plastic paints, on the other hand, simply encapsulate the wood in a membrane which is only good for growing mold and mildew between the coating and the substrate. All that rotten, moldy, wasted wood that is the result means it may have just been greener to use the oil base finish instead. Then you would still have the original wood, think of the trees you've saved. But that's another subject, isn't it? Did I mention Alcohol-free gasoline? That too. It doesn't ruin everything. Replacing whole engines just because the ruined one was running on PC fuel doesn't sound that Green to me.
End of rant, Rebecca. Take Care. LOL
Marty, I fully agree with you on all counts. The world is not changing for the better. On hiring a professional, I don't recall saying that, but certainly some professionals can make a real mess of things. I have witnessed that, repeatedly, in many boat yards. A boat owner needs to have a good grasp of the project at hand in order to know if the contractor is on the right track or not. I always like reading your comments. Patrick
@@RVLifeNOW Thank You Patrick.I'm far from the last word regarding any boat repairs, and I learn a lot watching your videos. Any job will have more than one "right" way. I like working with people who want to keep learning, and not discriminate against someone who may have less experience. Enthusiasm is more important.
Geez, man, feel better now that you've gotten all that off your chest ?? Take a deeeep breath, man !
I do agree with you on some points but not on all. EX: Water based rust paint was tried some years ago only for a big failure. Garbage.
For painting a house, non-COV paints are a great innovation. As well as alcool in regular fuel in cars, bringing a lot less emissions from cars and trucks. See, new products are not all bad.
PS Yes, I used tar paper too as an underlayment in my basement floor ! Not the over-expensive recommended stuff.
@@marcryvon Thank you Marc. Don't give up on me, I used Latex/acrylic paint on my house because I really liked it (it wasn't cheap). But on the wood I used what we call KILZ (primer), which is available in an oil-base version. I didn't use the water base.
It's the "oil base" Alkyd enamels that I am missing the most. I think that if a boat has wood that's worth preserving, modern water base paints are counterproductive.
For autos designed to run on alcohol containing fuels, fine. It's all the marine engines and their supporting systems destroyed by this fuel that I consider a pitiful waste.
Yes, I felt better immediately after writing that rant.
Are you on the Continent? In the US ( the EUA) or maybe just in California, we now have "paint thinner" that has acetone instead of mineral spirits. It's a joke.
I’m a professional painter with decades of experience on a roller. Thinking I might try a system of application that, in my opinion, will probably be multiple times faster. It uses a 5 gallon bucket instead of a paint tray to work out of.
I would fill the working 5 with only a gallon at a time, keeping the material mixed by the roller itself as I dip into it to apply the copper coat. I would have a separate 5 gallon bucket containing 3 gallons of copper (constantly stirred by a helper) ready to pour, refilling my work bucket as needed.
Also, I would use a duel 9” roller system with 6 foot roller poles.
I would have one 9” typical paint roller with a 3/4” nap roller skin to apply a lot of gushing (but of course, being a professional, not dripping) material, then another 9” roller and roller skin - this one 1/4” nap - to lay it off with once the copper coat has been applied to a wide area. With that, I would have my helper (or helpers, however many are needed) mixing, stirring, and refilling new copper into my work bucket, holding one of the two rollers for me until it needs to be switched out. I think one could cover far more real estate in in a much, much shorter time frame that way.
Keep in mind, only a true, experienced professional painter with many years under his belt with a roller is capable of this.
I’ve done similar things with other challenging paints. Who knows, might work.
Thanks for the video, great job with it. But the reason I’m contacting you is to ask about the footblock (base?) that a keel-stepped mast sits on below the sole and above the keel. Got some questions. Do you have any writings on that? Maybe articles you know of? What is used as the block? Does it need to be faired to the bilge sides, bolted to the floor under the sole? Does it need to be just set in place without any structural fastening for movement of the mast? That sort of thing.
By the way, I have a Miller Marine, Ted Brewer designed 1983 (‘84?) Jason 35, S/V Jenna Simone.
Thanks guys, learning a lot from you.
Interesting approach you have to applying the Coppercoat. The Coppercoat is unlike anything you, or I, have worked with before. There is so much copper that it settles out almost immediately and needs constant stirring. I think a Titan 440 airless paint sprayer with a 0.015 tip would be a quick way but as you say with the rolling, everyone on the spraying team would have to have good previous experience. One person mixes and refills, one person moves the hose, one person sprays and one person is there to take care of the loose ends and be a backup. Spraying could be great or a real disaster.
For the mast step, the best material is Garolite 10 also called G10. It is an incredibly hard epoxy laminate and will dull a carbide tipped table saw blade real quick. It is expensive but is one of those boat things that once it is installed, it will be there forever so in reality, it is the only thing that should be used. Any mast step must be bolted down to its base. On top of that is bolted a fitting that slips nicely into the bottom of the mast to keep the mast from from sliding around. The Garolite 10 should be at least 1" thick. Forget using wood or aluminum. Take out your mast and you will be able to copy what is there. If you are near a rigger, they should be able to tell you where to get the G10 or it can be ordered from places like McMaster Carr, or maybe even Grainger. The rigger or a mast maker might have a water jet machine to cut the G10 to the size you need so you don't have to tear up a good blade. I hope this helps
Thanks so much for the quick response. I have two comments and two questions, if you would, sir.
Comments:
Spraying copper coat -
I thought about that but would not do it. Wouldn’t want to take the chance on those copper micro-particles fouling up and lodging in the nooks and crannys of my rig. And it’s not needed. A good, highly skilled and experienced roller man can apply just as fast (or faster) as a sprayer can. And you don’t have to clean the rig!
Mast base-
I have no mast base as my boat was never finished out by the boat builder. Mine is a semi-custom, a ‘not-quite-but-almost-one-off’ build, as it were. She was basically a hull, deck, and cabin, with portlights, bulkheads, hatches, and a sole below when I got her. There isn’t even a breach of any kind anywhere on the cabin top for a mast, either deck or keel stepped. No bolt holes, no cut-out, not even a marking as to where the mast would go. Just an expanse of clean, solid cabin top, like a powerboat. Again, it was bought by the original owner before it was finished so that he could finish it out himself so I have no existing mast base by which to refer or compare.
Questions:
The G 10-
Are you saying to pour a resin block of G-10 into a mold for a mast base? Or do you mean to use it for a laminate of gluing layers of wood together to build up a wood block? If the latter, how high (thick) should it be for a 16,800lb displacement vessel?
Immobilizing mast base-
Is a keel-stepped mast base supposed to be bolted down or otherwise fastened in place on the keel? or should it simply rest there, allowing free movement with no bolting, gluing, or fastening of any kind?
Again, thanks so much for the kind and timely response.
@@globyois Only a factory makes G10. You will have to buy a 1 inch thick piece of it to make your mast base. You will have to bolt it the the bottom of the bilge or wherever it will finally sit. On our boat, it sits on the bottom of the bilge and bolt holes extend past the G10 with threads tapped into the keel area. Any mast step must be permanently mounted in place It cannot be allowed to move in the slightest. Do not use any wood in the bilge area for anything. Buy the block of G10 from the sources I previously mentioned. I hope this helps.
Patrick Childress Sailing Yes, that does help, very much. Thanks.
Cape point......nasty bit of ocean, convergence of two oceans and opposing direction and temperature currents, not to mention serious gusts, we were due to do a delivery from Port Elizabeth to Cape Town on the 20th Jan 2020, postponed due to 45/60 knots off Cape Point, leaving 1st or 2nd Feb now, and we're taking a custom built Simonis designed 64' retired Cape to Rio ocean racer, R-bay is a great little town, very industrial and bloody hot and humid from December to March, as I'm sure you've figured out.
Copper coat???? Mmmmm not so sure myself, it seems to me to be a very expensive lottery, particularly the application process, personally I'd just stick with ablative anti-foul, personal preference I suppose, I've just heard too many very costly stories of failure ,Britican included. Keep it simple stupid is my motto, along with.... have what you don't need as opposed to need what you don't have. Fair winds and safe sailing, if you stop off in Port Elizabeth you can contact me via email
porkstar007@gmail.com
Hello..thanks for the comment! Maybe we will see you out there. We are hoping to get as far as East London this week though that is questionable as of today’s Predictwind reports.
Everyone thinks Coppercoat is so much more expensive that ablative. Not so much. It’s about $500 more than our usual non working ablative we put on every year or two and $500 is a great gamble to see if Coppercoat will work better and eliminate that need every year or two for a decade or more. And from the TONS of cruisers we have spoken to at length about their Coppercoat, at least 90% have stopped every talking about antifouling. It’s not even on their radar anymore. They do other things now to their boat..the boat bottom and antifouling is a 30 minute power wash when they haul out, and a monthly wipe down of the hull if that. That will be worth the extra $500!
When you hear of expensive Coppercoat applications, that is people talking about professional applications. I have no idea how a 2 stage, 6 hours one day and 1 hour another day, and a couple days sanding could add $8000 usd. Those people must have VERY VERY bad bottoms with decades of “ablative” paint that a lates the poison but not the paint itself, cakes on that requires weeks and week and months to take it off. I just can’t understand after doing a Diy Coppercoat Application, how it could come to a $10,000 usd job to apply antifouling paint!
Coppercoat diy is one of the cheapest, most cost effective things you can do to yours boats bottom to keep it clean! -Rebecca
@@RVLifeNOW Thanks for your input, as a South African I'm sure you can appreciate that 500$ is R7500-00 equivalent, and that is a lot of money for us here, agreed regards the costs of a professional application, very costly, as I understand it you cannot have any traces of previous anti-foul and that surface preparation is a critical part of a successful application, it's unquestionably a good product, but it just seems to me to have very specific procedures with very little margin for error. If I was doing the kind of hull work that you have just done, osmosis etc, and I'd applied an epoxy barrier coat, or a new gel- coat for sure it's a great option, albeit a more costly one. Best anti-foul is water passing over the hull. If you're currently in East London the winds are expected to be SW until Thursday, then SE again for about a week + which should give you a downwind window to sail from East London, just keep your finger on the pulse with regards the long term forecast for Cape Point because after PE there is only one or two places you can hide, Knysna (daytime only, very weather and swell dependant, shallow draft tidal lagoon) or Mossel bay, nothing between there and Cape Town, fair winds and safe sailing, we are due to sail Sunday morning for Cape Town, 450 odd miles which will be a 3 day sail for you, minimum.
Sure..it seems everything would be expensive considering the exchange rate. But I guess my point is to pay X for antifouling paint, or X+50% for Coppercoat antifouling epoxy...and the Coppercoat has a 90% or 95% chance of working for a decade and more...the math points to less money if you are going to have your boat for 10 years...and that’s not even counting the expense of the haulout. We are hoping that the complications we had during the application of the Coppercoat aren’t enough to make it a failure. In which case the Coppercoat applicators for Britican and others must have really botched it for it to not work at all.
But we will see in a few months or year, how much these changes in the Coppercoat application effected the success or failure of the Coppercoat. We are as eager as others to know the answer to this. We all know a perfect application works, but exactly how much you can mess up and still have Coppercoat work is the real question . We don’t think we messed up as much as one couple, in fact we are fairly confident that our Coppercoat will be fine...we just got there a different way...But if it’s a failure, that will prove it’s a pretty darn sensitive application and tough to do it right! My fingers are very crossed that our changes to the application process of Coppercoat will only enhance the product but time will tell! -Rebecca. PS We are still in Richards Bay...hoping to leave this week just to get as far as East London or possibly Port Elizabeth. We would love to meet you and or Sailing Lady Africa!
jonno Rousseau Nonno..here now in Cape Town...Hout Bay...just arrived today! You were right...a beautiful sail up from East London! No complaints at all! I not so secretly obsessed about this passage for years, and now it’s behind us...so happy to be here! Looks like Coppercoat will have a challenge here...every single boat seems to be supporting a reef on the bottom of their hulls!!! -Rebecca
It was great yo have you here guys!Enjoy and stay safe🤗
Hi...who is this? Thanks for having us! We will let you know on the success of our Coppercoat ;) -Rebecca
@@RVLifeNOW It's Maja from Maputo
Haha...well hello! Are you coming down to Richards Bay at all with Mike! He is discussing bottom paint/antifouling of your boat, right at this very moment ;)
Thanks again for having up there...that was such a huge help to us! -Rebecca
@@RVLifeNOW Yes I will come to RB too to see how work's going😊
You certainly made it a fun stay for us. Now we get to help Mike here in RB.
Are you returning to Richards Bay th route to the Cape of Storms - Cape Town - or are you sailing further north in Mocambique to Beira. I have been there, and thaf is where I and my 2 brothers were bitten by an African Lion. True he was very young and only left tooth scratches like you get from any kitten, but at least we can genuinely claim to have been bitten by a lion!
Steve Killick
Steve, we will be leaving with the next weather window, south. The sooner we get to Cape Town, the better, as the weather windows are becoming shorter. Great lion attack story! I wonder if there is a petting zoo in S.Africa where I can go and film a similar lion mauling story!
@@RVLifeNOW As far as I am aware, there is a lion park alongside the N3 freeway up very close to Pietermaritzberg, about a 45 minute drive from Durban. Other than that, I am positive that there must be lion parks either near East London, Port Elizabeth or Cape Town itself. The lion we were "bitten" by was a very young cub - a few weeks old, with HUFE paws, but that is besides the point. It drew no blood, but we were bitten by a lion as we played with it! The native visitors to the zoo took way more notice of the decrepit horse that was in the pen next door.
HUGE - not hufe!
Patrick Childress Sailing please don’t support lion cub petting ranches. They are a breeding ground for canned lion hunting. 😡😡😡
Thank you Chris, for that information. We have spent many days at the game parks in S. Africa and the countries to the north, so we have great regard for the wildlife.
Hey guys. Totally wonderful to see even a little bit of Richards Bay SA. I am a SA expat currently living in the far north of Sweden. Please go to Cape Town... I am sure it will be worth it. It’s where my heart belongs.
OK...you got it...we will go there in February, for sure. We have been told to try to film our Coppercoat success here where the water is warm, since it will be very cold to get in the water in Capetown! So we may do a very short Coppercoat review a few videos from now to show what it looks like after about 7 weeks in very rich water...to see if the Coppercoat is working at least short term. Of course that’s not long enough yet to see if the Coppercoat is working...but at least we will see if it’s not working at all. And we are at a good point to give it a wipe and try to see how it is. Water so murky here, it may be more of a feel job that anything else. -Rebecca
Patrick Childress Sailing absolutely. Remember that the water will clear up a bit once off the coast. Are you guys going to pop into Durban or are you going to give that a skip? I lived there a few times too. Further down you have Port Alfred which is just beautiful... interesting entrance tho.
South of PE ( Port Elisabeth) you have the absolutely stunning Knysna and timing is key when entering thru the Famous KNYSNA HEADS. Not to be missed tho. The Garden Route, by car, is so very pretty, but to sail up into the towns surely must be even more so. After Gaansbaai and Kleinmond you sail into False Bay which will test even the best sailing skills on a blustery day but Simons Town is a must, it’s where I got married, and nearby my first daughter was born. A beautiful part of the world.
I lived in Port Alfred and Knysna. Yes beautiful but tricky getting in and out. Saw a few boats come to grief out of Port Alfred.
michael bundy Needs some careful timing!!!
The Grumpy Sailor OK...we are in Cape Town with the boat now...just drives today. Looks like our Coppercoat will get a good challenge here looking at the bottoms around us!! -Rebecca
I have had issues with plumbing copper fittings & electrical wire, both manufactured in China, prematurely failing because they were not the copper content they were suppose to be. This issue could carry to the copper powder as well. Great work and thank you for sharing your ideas and expertise.
Yes, that could very well be. I would only think Coppercoat gets "certs" on the copper they buy to make sure it is of the quality they expect....especially if the stuff comes from China.
Your sanding to me, was far too aggressive! Hope you get longevity for your effort! Will be interesting to see Zataras future results when Keith is finished with his boat?
What is the down side of aggressive sanding, can that cause a diminished effectiveness? I do wonder if some failed applications is from not sanding enough? It would be good to hear how you sanded your Coppercoat and what works for others.
@@RVLifeNOW Sorry Patrick, my comments are directed to the sanding rather than the material as I have "no" knowledge of the technical properties of Copper Coat but more in the spraying of antifoul.
@@gregfarrell6009 I think spraying Coppercoat would be a good way to go to get the smoothest finish. If I remember right a .015 tip should be used with an airless system and reduce by 20 percent with alcohol. Certainly not for a novice to be doing. What a disaster that can create. I have heard that Coppercoat gives instruction on spraying their product.
Is Zatara applying CopperCoat too? -Rebecca
Aggressive in terms of the grit of paper used or in terms of how much material was removed?
I am a professional darts player for over 20 years and I can say in all honesty that broccoli is no good for replacing sprung springs on trampolines and associated ancillary mid-term treatment to yeast infections in high use collars and sleeves in relation to men's dress shirts.
Well then...why don't we talk about this ; sailboats, sailing, sailboat repair, sailboat, ocean, sailing life, sail life, and lets just go sailing...See...two can play this game!
Great video! Uber-informative....thank you for your meticulous instruction and process.
Thanks Paul for your comment. Hopefully they can help other people get their Coppercoat Application just right so they can be one of the Coppercoat success stories ;) -Rebecca
excellent video Mr Patrick!! thanks....launching my cat Reload 'n Charge! tomorrow early, no copper coat.....but back in the 'oggen! Continue to enjoy your videos! Thanks, Andrew
Thank you, Andrew. I hope your launch goes well and you are off to some fun sailing adventures.
Hi guys, she looks lush! What an amazing job you did! Especially with sanding out the blisters and filling them up and such, rebuilding your boat basially. We have some osmosis too and will go through the same process. Can I ask what product did you use before you applied the coppercoat and how many layers? Cheers!
If you watch the 500 blisters video,it shows the products. AMT Composites in South Africa was great to work with and shared much advice with us as we went.
Good Luck! With all of the environmental well meaning regulations there are unintended consequences. Like boat hulls need to be re-sanded, painted frequently (resulting in more product and painting supplies used) and scrubbed sometimes monthly. The new stuff doesn't work nearly as well as the old "red lead" antifouling paint we used in the 60's and 70's. The US Government and military continued to use the "good stuff" when us U.S. taxpayers had to switch.
You have a very good point. A lot more of the weak stuff falling off boats equals the same as less of the good stuff.
I used Coppercoat on my 45CC. It took me 3 weeks doing all the work myself. Launched in May of 2019 in the Chesapeake Bay and the boat never moved until November of 2019. I hauled her out at Hilton Head to put a new dripless shaft seal in mid December. . The bottom was perfect, nothing at all. It's now March and it is still perfect. I was really afraid it would fail but I followed the instructions, every last detail and it worked.
Good report..thanks for the comment. Yes, it’s pretty well known now that if you follow the Coppercoat instructions precisely, that Coppercoat will work very well, and last for 10 or 15 years. I sure do hope it does for us. After almost 3 months now, we are having the same results. But we do give it a wipe with a sponge every 6 weeks or so as we are in a very heavy growth area, and we don’t want to find out that we should have been wiping but because we didn’t, something took hold. You should see the boats here...they have the most beautiful reef systems attached to them! Coppercoat could do well here in S Africa, but its difficult to obtain, so I think that’s why it’s not that much in use here. Though in Richards Bay quite a few boats had it, and had had it for more than a decade with great results. No bad reviews there at all.only good ones on Coppercoat... haven’t met anyone here on the Cape Town side yet that has had Coppercoat. -Rebecca
I wonder why at 3:10 the epoxy coatings were left to dry, sanded by two methodes and cleaned, de-dusted and water-washed. Why didn't you start the application of coppercoat once the last coat of epoxy (at 3:10) had reached the end of its potlife and was still sticky, not completely dried ? Succesive layers of epoxy should always be applied in each other, not on top of each other. This can be done, of course, but then the sanding is necessary but should be avoided.
I think it is the right moment to start the application process. After that, keep applying it until the desired number of coatings are reached (can be up to 10 coatings). Or else, divide the boat into let's say two or thee zones. De first zone is treated until 10 coatings have been reached, then go to the next zone etc... One zone a a time, keep working until finished. It is very important to start the process and finish it in one long haul, so no stopping in between. It is a good thing to keep one person occupied with mixing and distributing the coating.
The finished product is very lightly sanded, pref by hand, as to expose as many copper particles as possible.
You also mentioned that coppercoat is water bases, which is not true, of course.
You should be good for the next 10 years, which is a good thought knowing that it would have costed you +/- 120 euro's per m² now.
Thanks for the insight. It would have been too hard to organize going right in to Coppercoat application at the end of epoxy..there were a lot of fine details to pay attention to at end of epoxy. Coppercoat is indeed water based…you clean up with soap and water…and of course if it rains hard…it’s all washed off the hull.
Great video! Question: how long did you wait for the underlying epoxy to cure and dam before you started to roll CC?
See above
I had copper coat but after a few months it was full of barnscles and calcium worms in the Mediterranean.
I cleaned, scratched and sanded the fuselage any four weeks but in vain.
We applied very carefully according to the manual with three people.
Nevertheless I exchsnged the voating with International WA which is now after 2 years still clear of anything. And it seems to last even one more year.
Never more copper coat!!!
Sorry it didn’t work out for you. It’s approaching two years for us, and though we scrub harder each month, it’s still coming off quite easily.
Very informative, thanks.
Can you tell us what it cost and did you buy the Copper Coat in South Africa?
The Coppercoat product we used cost around $1,800 out of the U.S.. We were very fortunate for shipping. We had new anchor chain shipped from the U.S.. Maggie Chain said there was still room in the barrel, if we wanted to add more boat parts to fill the void. If it were not for that cheap shipping, we probably would not have gone with the Coppercoat. People do ship Coppercoat to S. Africa for application on their boats, but there is no local distributor who stocks it.
Great video! Question: how long did you wait for the underlying epoxy to cure and release the solvent before you started to roll CC?
We waited too long… it got hard fast in that weather. We waited about 2 days… should have only waited a day
Cape wHaTeVer! You cat is cute. Gıve tıckles from the ınternet. :)
Coati is truly an African cat. He is still a kitten and growing into his snowshoe sized paws!
I think you get it right there with water and alcohol cleansing, since indeed acetone is leaving a residue film afterward, and only water will not remove, but alcohol does. Since I have been working in the semiconductor industry to clean semiconductor wafers before processing, that is a susceptible process. Cheers.
Thanks for the feedback.
Glad to see you back in the water. Even though the haul out was very informative. Good luck with the Coppercoat. From what I have seen- when it works, it is terrific!
That’s the feedback we have seen too. When Coppercoat works which seems to be 95% of the time, it is terrific...we hope we are in that 95%. It was hard getting the right supplies here to follow the directions...it would be best to apply it in a first world country or order everything from overseas if not in a first world country...but hopefully our Coppercoat application is a success and the idea of antifouling will slowly slip from our vocabulary until someone ask us. And then we can be one of many that sing it’s praises. Oh I hope so! We did have some complications that could mess it up, that’s for sure! -Rebecca
Not much up on copper coating but you weren't exaggerating yesterday, Coati looks almost big enough to take the wheel in a blow...
And yet he has not fully grown into his "snow shoe" sized paws. A real African cat.
hi guys the application looks good, i look forward to seeing how it turns out over time and what results you've achieved, by the looks they'll be good ones, :), its the system ill be using and will be applying it very close to the way you've don it, it is very similar to doing zinc coatings , continuous steering while applying , is the trick, keep things in suspension give an even coating,
well done, and brick house is looking sharp . :)
About the stirring, I would not have known this if I was only watching someone apply the Coppercoat. It is good to get hands on experience with all boat projects.
There are these sonic devices you can put on strategic places on your hull and it is some kind of sonic vibration and marine animal do not like it from what I understand it’s not a gimmick and is quite effective
I have seen those and considered them too… seems like a great idea but don’t have any experience with it
It is my impression thaf long (and short) haired mohair rollers leave hairs in the anti fouling coat that cannot be good to prevent fouling build up. That however is an uninformed conclusion.
Stephen, you are probably right. Yet we did not have much choice of what roller to use.
Too late now, but, you could have sprayed the CC on. I'm guessing that tools for the job may not have been readily available.
Have you done any airless spraying? I have done a lot of airless spraying and can see, it is far safer to just roll the stuff on. It would take a well coordinated effort to spray and would be nice to have that fine, smooth, finish. Coppercoat does train professional applicators on how to spray Coppercoat.
40ft Steel Jazza Joton Guardian. I hope you have found a worthwhile solution.
Thanks, we do too. We had Jotun brand but a different name..Jotun Seaforce, last time and it didn’t last 3 months. We sure do hope the Coppercoat will be better than that! When you find an antifouling you are happy with, you just have to stick with it, whether is be Coppercoat antifouling or anything else! -Rebecca
hopefully you have better luck than sailing uma ,their copper coat failed
Uma did not use Coppercoat. They made their own concoction which unfortunately did not work out.
Why it should be sanded at the end? Is it to remove glossy resin layer and expose copper particles to the water?
Item 8 has the explanation. www.coppercoatusa.com/media/CoppercoatDosAndDonts.pdf
Alexander, the real problem is following the instructions of using 320 grit paper and getting it to look like the picture. Nearly impossible. After much work, and sandpaper, another boat owner we know finally gave up using 320 and went with coarser paper and could only get his Coppercoat to look 80 percent of the example picture. Using the sanding method we felt necessary, after 3 months, our Coppercoat is doing well but a fine 320 smooth finish, according to Coppercoat, is the best way to go to avoid sediments accumulating in the scratches of the sanded bottom.
Cool stuff. Looking forward to Cape Town (I lived there for a bit)
We are looking forward to Cape Town. With the next weather window, we should be on our way. It was blowing 60 knots in CT the other day!
Anyone. How often does a boat require painting with the consideration that it is always done clean and proper? Also could you apply plastic sheeting to the hull?
Depends on the quality of the paint used, how well and thick it’s applied, where you cruise and what hits you or what you hit...and how pretty you like it to be! We paint ours about every 10 years or so. Twenty year old boats we know well have never repainted. -Rebecca
maybe make a bunch of copper dust by sanding or whatever and just mix in with the best hull finish.
People have tried that but it does not work. There is something special about the water base epoxy that allows it to release just right.
Unfortunately your valiant is most likely all blistered up again
No it’s not at all. Holding up well.
Very informative thank you..plain sailing captain
I did a 40 foot boat in Ontario, Cost $38,000.00 to move to Florida. Worms in the teak were a problem.
Wow..that’s horrible..maybe worst than hull blisters or bottom painting jobs! we have seen an old fiberglass boat, built in Taiwan, that had teak eaten up by termites. -Rebecca
Boat's looking great!...that cat looks a real personality 👍
Thank you. Young Coati is a great boat kitten, very friendly. His feet are like snow shoes so he still has some growing to do....but we hope not too much more. There are some big cats here in Africa.
great video! We are preparing to repaint, and are in the process of choosing what will work best for us.
Avocet, I would really be interested to hear what you choose.
@@RVLifeNOW stay tuned!
Are you considering Coppercoat? It seems if you get the application right, which is not that difficult to do, ecspecially if you are in a first world country, the success rate is pretty high. Of course you hear more frequently about failed applications than successes..The successes often get forgotten about because bottom painting becomes a non-issue with successful Coppercoat applications...but failed one...well that isn’t easily forgotten about. So no news is good news. yes...please let us know what you eventually use for your antifouling! -Rebecca
@@RVLifeNOW We have a lot of considerations right now!
I imagine you do. I hope you find some antifouling that works for you...Coppercoat or other. It’s a pain to haul out and find any worthwhile paint at all once you get out there, so make it count, whatever you choose! -Rebecca
I have cc and the hull is green. Shall I keep the green or do I need to sand?
Green is perfect
When applied correctly I have found the only downside is the frequent scrubbing.
Ha..if that’s all we have to do to this antifouling, that will be fantastic. We have to do that to every kind of antifouling we have ever had anyways. One guy here tells us he never ever touches it, just hauls it out and pressure washes it once a year. That would be nice, but that sounds too good to be true! -Rebecca
Have you found it any more frequent than with traditional antifouling? I would hope less. And were you able to do the final sanding with the recommended 320 grip paper to look like the picture in the instructions?
Hello how are you?
I wanted to know how the coopercoat you applied 2 years ago has gone.
would you apply it again?
After 2 years, what results have you obtained? Are you happy?
Thank you very much and good winds
Hello Pablo. it’s been 2.5 years now, and while it doesn’t stop growth here in nutrient rich waters of the Caribbean, it’s easy enough to o clean still. Perfectly effortless to clean no..but easy enough. I would never paint over it. We clean it once every month or month and a half and it is good to go. I see cleaner bottoms around here, 3-6 months after someone has applied expensive bottom paint and I often wish I could have a perfectly clean, never need to be cleaned bottom…that doesn’t happen, but the divers are always done in an hour and they say it’s so nice and easy to clean compared to other boats. When I get in the water and clean it seems like a lot of work..but I’m a woos. This is Rebecca speaking by the way…the wife, in case you aren’t aware :) Anyways…I would,put it on again…but the beauty is,mi won’t have to for 10 or 15 years…it comes out way way cheaper in the end. But there is no perfect pain that just keeps all the growth away. It MUST be maintained. Coppercoat isn’t designed to ZTOP growth,mits designed to make it easy to wipe it off..and it’s definitely easier to wipe it off than other paint once things start to grow.
@@RVLifeNOW Muchas gracias por la respuesta. voy a estudiar precios y donde pedirlo....
un abrazo
What's your opinion about ultrasound antifouling devices? Do you know how they compare to copper coat? Does it make sense to combine the two (or maybe ultrasound at least switched on when the boat is stationary in a harbour(?)) or would it be overkill?.
I don’t really know to be honest with you. We considered trying it a few years ago but had to be installed professionally...in Australia...and didn’t want to go to Australia. So at that point we just applied some more noneffective antifouling that didn’t even last 2 years and required lots of aggressive scrubbing of the hull. If this doesn’t work, that could be our next attempt. But energy is always a concern on a small boat with a small battery bank, so I’m not sure ...but like you said...maybe when in a marina switch it on. I’m not sure how it would enhance or detract with Coppercoat. Thanks for putting it on my radar again. I love researching and considering things like this!! But hoping this Coppercoat application does the trick once and for all! -Rebecca
We explored ultrasound and no company came back with adequate verification that their system works. Plus, it would take far too much electricity to keep the ultrasound functioning 24 hours a day. Charlie Doane, at SAIL magazine tried it on his own boat and from what I recall, it was not a huge success, but best to check with him. Charlie also has a blog site at wavetrain.net . You can contact him there and probably read his take on ultrasound.
Patrick,
Thanks so much with all your insight and honesty with the Copper Coat application . I have always been very curious of the longevity of such an application . Although I believe it is not allowed in the USA anymore.If it does work well and lasts , I know that when out of the country I wold like to try it . So thanks for all the tips on how to properly apply it .
Robert
North Star
Twisted, we had our Coppercoat shipped to us from the U.S.A.. You can contact Coppercoat U.S.A, at : info@coppercoatusa.com or go to their home page: www.coppercoatusa.com/index.php I hope this helps.
You may be thinking of TBT . Coppercoat is actually copper encased in epoxy and is considered extremely eco friendly because nothing really leaches in to the water. -Rebecca