I see where you're going. Unfortunately manufacturer's seem to be heading towards a point where knowing what's under the bonnet, let alone the state of everything under there, is impossible or might threaten a warranty if dreamed about. People have happily forgotten about maintenance because of this. Eventually, unless something breaks, people will only think about issues if told by a computer that something is wrong.
The funny thing is these 6 month oil changes are actually written in your manual under the conditions described so you basically just follow the user manual
Hi John, In May 2023 I purchased a new BMW 230i from Glenelg BMW in SA. As part of the purchase, I paid for 5 years servicing up front. On16/5/24 I took the car to the dealer for its first service. My main concern was for the oil to be changed, as there had been no oil change since I purchased the vehicle. I was informed that the oil would not be changed until 25,000km or 2 years because BMW had decided that the oil they use lasts longer than that used by other manufacturers. Knowledgeable people all agree that such an extended period between oil changes leads to premature engine failure so oil should be changed at least every 12 months at a minimum. So, I had to pay $347.74 for the oil change despite having already paid for 5 years servicing. The vehicle had only travelled 5880km but at least 12 months had expired since the vehicle had fresh oil. Had the car travelled 25,000km the oil would have been supplied as part of the service at no charge, so I was penalised for travelling less than this. I cannot see why the dealer should benefit by $347.74 from my not travelling the higher distance. The dealer would not have known how many kilometres I would travel per year so they must have allowed for oil changes at every service in the price of the contract. BMW policy to change oil at 25,000km leads to a worry for anyone thinking of purchasing a used BMW either privately or through a BMW dealer. It means that a car with 50,000km on the clock could have had only one oil change in its life despite meeting BMW service standards. This is of concern given many negative claims on the internet regarding BMW reliability. Any comments please? Geoffrey Pearce
I'm 79 and a bit old school. When I told my optometrist recently that I changed me own oil he clearly didn't believe me and kept saying things like there was no place to get rid of the old oil. Changing your own oil is a nuisance rolling around on the carport frigging around with my Echo's oil filter that never comes off easily, but it sure is cheaper than having it done. These dealers you talk about - what are they? My rule is simple - change it often - I shoot for 5000ks. Some weeks I might not do a good run, but I almost never go a fortnight without doing a 40-50 mile trip. Thats a good tip. BTW I use a good synthetic and I still notice that the engine sounds happier on the new oil.
I paint the exposed metal work under my car except brake components with the old engine oil, we also paint fencing with it to protect it from the winter weather not that you get much cold or wet weather over there.
PEUGEOT 505STI which I owned for 16 years completed 513000 km with regular oil changes every 5000km and many long drives eg 8 times across the Nullarbor from Bowral and superb cruising ability and comfort ( 2003 to 2016)
Great advice thanks mate. I actually had some chats and got a quote with your company. Wow they were so lovely, so helpful, no pressure to take it and they gave me heaps of advice when I go into see other dealers.
driving your car at least 30 minutes (preferably 45 to 60 minutes) on the highway (limited idling) at least once a week or so does remove much of the oil contaminants. This reduces sludge that gums up piston rings that eventually leads to oil burning and greatly increased gas consumption... and engine damage that costs $thousands. These longer trips done regularly ends up saving you tons of money.
1. Never skip the time interval oil change if it comes before the mileage (it might be even more important than the mileage interval in some cases). 2. Use high quality synthetic oil with the grade recommended by the manufacturer (check service book and don't rely on their advice: some Asian car dealers put 0w-20 to get better fuel economy but when you check the manual you'll see that a higher viscosity might be recommended). 3. Use oils that have the manufacturer recommended standards (ACEA/API, or any other standard that it's requested: VW, BMW, Renault, etc) or else you might damage things like high pressure fuel pumps, turbocharger shafts, catalytic converters, etc. 4. Don't change the brand/standards (ACEA/API) too often, since each has an additive package that might not work very well when mixed with the other one (you cannot completely drain the old oil and with every oil change some mixing occurs). 5. Check oil at regular intervals (top up if necessary, and note the consumption rate). 6. If your cars burns a lot of oil, DO NOT, increase the cold viscosity like most mechanics recommend: from 5w-40 to 10w-40. This will just cause even more wear during cold starts, while doing nothing when the engine is warm (when the oil is thin and is actually going past the piston rigns or valve seams, or whatever leaks there are). Try changing the brand of oil. 7.(optional) Learn to change the oil yourself and you'll afford even more expensive and better oils and filters together with shorter intervals if necessary and still be a lot cheaper than going to a mechanic. (please dispose the oil safely to a recycling center).
First class advice John, have always done as you suggested here, have to say in 39 years of driving my only breakdown was a clutch cable on a Ford Granada. Engines have never let me down 🙂
@@AutoExpertJC Maybe I should have changed it for preventative maintenance reasons, but I was young and most of my brain power went on chasing Ming Molls 👄 (still does I think..)
Ford Capris had the same issue... broke right in the middle of the city in peak hour... the tow truck operator caused 2 grand worth of damage getting it on his flat top...WTF! all that to replace a $10 cable. 😫😖😥😋
i totally fit this demographic. since we retired its a trip to town or the supermarket. 1 km and 1/2 km respectively. i do try to go out for a drive in the country to air our brains and look at the beach at least once a fortnight. we have a new outlander and yes the service interval is 1 year of 15000km. however, i have been in the habit of changing oil at 5000km for many years. our old escape we had for 20 years, was still mechanically sound and purred along beautifully. it was the gearbox that failed sadly. so it seems i have been doing the right thing all these years.
I walk to the shop because it's only 3 kilometres return. In fact I never drive my car unless I'm leaving town. Any less than 8 kilometres and you're inly doing damage to the engine
change my oil and filter every 6 months whether it needs it or not, buy oil on special when it comes up like 20 litres at a time, i do like my car so cheap insurance costs me about 50 $ a change and the time to do it.
Yep... ditto. Pretty regularly you can get 5l for under $10. We buy 3 which will do 2 oil changes... good quality filter is bugger all. Local mechanic does the bigger services.
Yup, same here. Buy oil in 20/25 litre packs and half a dozen quality filters when i see them on offer. 3000 miles the very most between oil changes, and that's when the running is fairly normal, been as low as 2k when lots of short hops involved. Oil change costs me a total of £25 on one car and £32ish on the other which has a 7.5 litre sump. Been decades since i had an engine or running issue, do all my own servicing, garages trying to charge about £70 for one sumpful of oil alone when i can get 20 litres of good synthetic from £80 to £100 delivered straight to my door. Same applies to other aspects such as proper brake servicing, which almost no garage does correctly any more, decades since i needed to replace a brake caliper.
I always take my kids to the local skidpad for a fortnightly burnout... two problems solved... Commodore inlet tracts cleared and kids outlet tracts given a good workout. 😁😋
Being. Very old. This information has never changed. Being young and no knowledge of anything practical. Then this information. Will save you lots of time and. A small fortune 😉😉
How lovely to see you out in the real world from the Fat Cave! What lovely locations you were at also. Lovely. Old buildings, Shrubbery, Rubbish Bins. People even! Another teaching video too JC. Reckon you may have missed your calling. #LetMeAtYourKidsIllTeachThem! #MALS
I like it when I recognise all the locations in a video. Martin Place, Hyde Park and alleys around Surry Hills. Heading towards BMW Sydney in Paddo methinks.
@@carsonj1 correct. But if it’s just sitting in a car that’s not being driven, it stays fine for a really long time. Oil doesn’t go bad like food goes bad from sitting. It goes bad from being abused and never heated up.
In colder climates John I think the perfect engine oil/block heater or investing in a heated garage space does wonders to reduce long-term engine wear. But short of that, good fresh oil is the next best thing, that requires a bit of excellent craft in the engine itself as well. 🤙🏻
I live east of Alaska. Just change your oil more often. Use 0W oil and change your oil 2 or 3 times a year. Been doing this for close to 40 years and have had no engine problems. I don't plug in my block heater unless it is colder that -40C.
+1 for regualar service intervals. I just had to do a head gasket on my car, and when the mechanic pulled the head off, there was absolutely no sludge or contaminants anywhere in this 18 year old block. I've been doing 6 month oil changes (myself, because it's $60 and can be done from the convenience of your driveway). I almost never leave the "grid' with the car for long drives, but I do ensure it goes WFO at least once every 10 minutes (once warm) to prevent buildup. However, now I need to service the driveshafts.
I have a 2007 VW Diesel Caddy that I have had since new. Been doing this since the warranty expired (kinda) . Now approaching 350k. Still runs great. Though I wouldn't buy another VW, couple of times the customer service has been less than good. And there was that Dieselgate incident......
Just started watching your TH-cam videos and l like the way you separated the truth from the bull dust being polite in the motor vehicle industry very funny at times well done
Indeed. But I'm pretty sure it won't be followed. In most cases it's hard enough to get drivers to put their cars in for a major service, let alone an inbetween one as well.
John, I wonder what effect this would have for all these newer PHEVs coming to market with ever longer battery ranges. Are we going to see issues with these vehicles if they only run their engines for 10% of the typical mileage or the odd highway trip, or will the wear from low temperature loads be less significant if they occur less often? Disclaimer: Owning an older PHEV, I have a vested interest in this answer.
That's just stupid and a waste of money and natural resources . "never regretted it " Over servicing can stuff with you warranty as well. A later model engine is more likely to die by driving it like a pussy. Direct port efi is not your friend. Clagged up valves will kill your engine way faster the an over due oil change these days.
@@fredderf551 Changing the oil will only stuff your warranty if you put the wrong grade or spec in. If your timing chain snaps and you have 2 month old oil in and your last book service was 8 months ago they cannot and will not use that as an excuse for warranty denial. Clogged valves can be cleaned by yourself every year or so, but changing the oil will cause less oil dilution and less airborne oil particle and reduce ‘clagging’. Simple stuff really.
@@graemeottey "Changing the oil will only stuff your warranty if you put the wrong grade or spec in." Over servicing can stuff with you warranty. Which part didn't you understand ? The over or the servicing part. "If your timing chain snaps and you have 2 month old oil." 1 You're in a world of pain. Values, pistons bang. 2 A chain that's old school. 3 Shitty oil will not break a timing chain "ago they cannot and will not use that as an excuse for warranty denial" Why not? I do it ,nothing is said. Ill null a warranty so fast if a person doesn't comply with servicing in the warranty booklet. I know this is going to be hard for you to understand, but the people that built the car actually know how it works and how to look after it. Hence, the servicing booklet. "Clogged valves can be cleaned by yourself every year or so" So your car has run lean for a whole year or so. Yep that's healthy, Ill go with the shitty oil. You don't work on engines with direct port efi, you send them to be recycled. "Simple stuff really." You have no idea what you a talking about. I don't know why you even commented.
Got a 2011 MB w204 C250 1.8L. Tells me on the dash ‘time for a service. Do the oil and all filters. Address any spot fires as they happen. It’s now 13 years old. Been a great car for me. It’s all about how you think and act. Agree with you wholeheartedly. The car loves a good fast, long run.
Absolutely spot on,he’s right about short journeys where the engine never reaches its operating temperature and consequently sump oil dilution sets in,for every gallon of fuel you use approximately one gallon of water is produced depending on the weather and outside temperature both of which create different amounts of water when the engine is running. Buying expensive long live oil’s is not the solution to the problem even though the oil companies say it is,running high mileages and long distances may well stop most of the dilution issues but does stop all the muck,carbon deposits Ect, sloshing around the engine for long periods,using a less expensive oil and charging it every six months for local journeys and twelve months if your doing longer journeys is the better option if you can afford it,more important if your running a diesel to do this because a cleaner engine will last a lot longer than one clogged up with contaminates.
John! Just replaced two tyres on my pig carrier a couple of hours ago, it handles much smoother and safer now! (what would you know, tyres with actual existing treads perform better, even on rain, yesssss!) Thanks for all the hints about this on your other videos, mate! This is how you actually make a difference on people's lives (helping people keeping themselves alive!), even here in Upsidedownistan Portugal. By the way, one thing I've never seen addressed nearly anywhere: I've mounted the new tyres in the back. The existing ones were in pristine condition so they were moved to the front and the new ones went to the back. People I know in the transport industry claim this is the best, safest and more economical way of changing tyres. Any comments on this, John? Thanks a HUGE lot, mate!
Even better if you can rotate tyres consistently and have them all wear out at the same time, but putting the new on the rear and moving the rear to the front runs a close second. Rear tyre rubber tends to go hard before they wear out, especially in modern FWD vehicles, so it's good to get some wear on them before they have to be tossed anyway - and putting the best tyres on the rear makes the handling more predictable than having great steer tyres and not knowing when the rear is going to break loose. And since the crappy tyres are on the front, they'll wear out faster, so need to be replaced sooner - which is what you want when they're crappy, so it's a win all round. :-)
@@aussiebloke609 Yeah that's something along those lines that I've been told. Good durability while having better security. And it's cheaper to buy them 2 at a time instead of 4. Thanks for chiming in!
@@Humongous_Pig_Benis Really? What if you just assumed that 2 half worn out tyres needed replacing but just keep the money for later, then use that plus some more to buy all 4 tyres when needed, wouldn't that be the same? Or actually buy some new tyres on special but keep them until fitting time, you could save some money. On the other hand often I've seen Buy 3 and the fourth one is Free. So no, 2 is not cheaper than 4 overall.
I concur with everything John has said here and would add, when you do your interim oil change get the engine and the oil good and hot (minimum 20KM drive) before you drop it. That way you will get the most benefit from the change as all the contaminants and microscopic foreign particles will still be in suspension in the oil and the thinner hot oil will drain really fast carrying everything out of the sump with it. I'm pretty sure most dealerships don't give two hoots about this when they do oil changes which is something I believe also adds to the incidence of these problems. Wear gloves and mind you don't burn your hands the oil can get very hot indeed.
Great comment John. I’ve been doing oil and filter changes in my cars every 5000km for the last 20 years. I can get pricey when you do 40,000km/year, but now I’ve reverted to a new car again (the Saabs were just getting too unreliable even with the preventative servicing) and fewer kms. I feel it is much more important. Except I took your advice and let your 5 ‘approved’ companies vie for my hard earned and bought a Mazda CX-5 GT (poo brown leather is just not my thing). I am also in discussions with my mechanic to go one step further and change the Aisin gearbox oil every 20,000km. He is telling me that Volvo, Saab and Mazda (and I assume many other car makers) use these gearboxes in the various models. Volvo recommends a gearbox oil change every 80,000km and has had quite a few (according to him) die, with the owner up for a $5,000 dollar repair bill. Saabs recommend 60,000km or 80,000km depending on the model and have had fewer issues. Mazda is also 60,000km for auto gearbox oil transfusions (I’ve been told), but I feel if I keep the oil new every 20,000km there should be no reason for the gearbox to poo poo itself as these other makers have had happen. Thanks you for a most entertaining perspective of Australia’s automotive world. Lloyd
Brilliant John. Retired and the cold start short trips are a regular thing. Golf down the freeway twice a week down the freeway keeps the engine healthy. Just rotate cars around that.
great advice John, totally agree with you, I just doubt it a little bit who is willing to do servicing twice more often when so many people don't even do their regular servicing in appropriate time...
My vs2 commodore passed 1.05 million KMs with no major issues (excluding PS pumps). Changed the oil and filter every 6k, even reused after filtering through shirts occasionally. Cheap oil fine, just change often, it works.
My BMW diesel came up with an “oil level above max” message. Under warranty. New oil, clean out the applicable regeneration filters etc. That was when my primary drive was
I own a 2012 VW GTI. It has slightly more than 60k miles/ 100K kM on it. (Beautiful car, highly recommend) and I change oil (pure synthetic) every 6 months. Still runs like new.
John thanks for this timely video. I've been down a rabbit hole on this subject for the last six months. You've explained it for me in 10 minutes ! I live in a rural area where every trip is a minimum of half an hour with oil at 90C. Still the VW dealership tried to tell me my Passat TDI needed an added extra " upper air intake clean" to remove carbon build up at 45K. Their claim was that my short trip driving warranted some expensive WD40 sprayed into the manifold. I declined and contacted NRMA technical support who told me the process offered was next to useless. This added extra wasn't on any service info I could find and when I contacted VW Australia they would neither confirm or deny the need for a service add on for carbon build up.
This was EXCELLENT ! And great to see John shooting outside. Very sensible advice. And I only ever think of these things in terms of engine longevity. I hadn't joined the dots to the opportunity savings. Thank you John.
Diesels in particular can benefit from a decent trash occasionally. Some time back I borrowed a local farmer's pickup/ute. It spent most of it's life just doing short journeys checking on animals etc. I had a long way to go and it was a normally asthmatic diesel so it spent most of 16 hours with the throttle wide open on the motorway. Who needs cruise control when the engine can't drag it up to illegal speeds anyway? A few days after returning it I received a phone call - "what have you done to my truck?" - oh shit - "It does so much better!" - phew. "Erm - as a thank you I gave it an Italian tune up!"
Im lucky everywhere is 50km along the Hume. So when my fan doesnt stop running after I have switched off the car, I drive it another 50 to burn off the dpf. Job done for another month.
Another thing, after a big drive, the oil on your dipstick can go straight from F to Add in one tank if you've only done really short driving before. Save yourself $20 and carry a 1L bottle of oil from Super Cheap if the car is going beyond Metro Melbourne for the first time in its life, than be ripped off at the servo for oil.
Another good advice John. Here in europe, manufacturers service schedule are mostly 30k or two years which is ridiculous, having hot summers and really cold winters imo. I was growing up in different times and do my oil and filter changes every 10 to 15k max. Surprisingly, my cars don't suffer common problems mentioned by you. Coincidence? I don't think so. By the way, if i'm driving in town more than often, I take it for decent motorway blast every few weeks as well, it does work for my cars. Great video as usual John.
Thanks John! I drive 5km to work where my car temp gauge does not even increase by one bar before reaching 😫😫 I change my oil with every tire swap season but will also consider more highway! Last year I made a good highway drive from Toronto to Ottawa 997 kms return trip! Wish to do more of that. #winter #Canada
I've had my car for about 3 years now and I've only driven it about 8000klm. I had a service done by a mechanic about 2 years ago and I've changed the oil myself a couple of times since then. The car runs sweet.
Always very good advice on these videos of John's. Interesting that my independent mechanic has exactly the same advice, he changes the oil every 5000 km and says the 1.5 L Toyota engine will last my lifetime if we keep doing that.
Agree entirely on the more regular oil and filter change which should always be done on a hot engine with the oil allowed to drain for a few minutes to make sure it's all out. Also, on the regular longer drive, do it in third gear close to maximum rpm, we used to call it an Italian tune-up, works wonders.
Difficult or impossible with a CVT? Also, what are the practicalities of doing this at home - without proper oil recycling/disposal? Loaded question of course... we sell something called the Spider 2500 which might go halfway to making the process easier... even nicer is our Single-Post Portable Service Hoist (smallest footprint high-rise car hoist) - but a tad pricey for most folk… :P
Carefull John what you said makes sense and stuff. I own a car that travels at most 1000k,s a year and I change the oil and filter twice a year. PS I work on cars for a living.
I find that Black Sambuca assists in the removal of any blockage/s I may have...depending on the amount of blockage the non-diluted Sambuca req'd is around 2 x 700ml/tank....no family wishes to be around when the time comes for the blockage to remove itself however...I will take your advice onboard and make sure that this a 6mthly operation with a Chivas addition just before Christmas...
Most manufacturers specify constant short trips as a "Severe Condition", which usually involves an extra "in between" service. Most people would be capable of doing their own in between oil change if they were shown the correct way and had some basic tools. TAFE colleges used to run night courses on how to maintain your own car, if anyone is prepared to learn how to do it you can save some serious money as well as not having the inconvenience of taking your car somewhere to get it done. I did some automotive teaching for TAFE years ago and I taught a group of women how to maintain their cars, nearly all of them continued to do their own minor oil changes and basic services. This was back in the days when cars only had 12 months new car warranty though, if the car is still under warranty you have to get a qualified mechanic to do it to keep your warranty intact.
I remember being very excited seeing a basic maintenance course 'for women' in the listing of community courses. This was in the '80s and I was a teenager. I took a look at the course description. How to check your oil, brake fluid, coolant, add washer fluid, etc. Really??? At least repair manuals for just about every make and model were easy to get a hold of!
Well as someone who actually reads the owners manual of their car from cover to cover this is not news. By the way just halving the intervals may not be enough to preserve the warranty, read the fine print in the manual, anything other than steady state highway motoring in mild dust free air with no hills or rain is classed as 'severe service' in some cars this can be as low as 3 monthly for some items depending on conditions. The BMW M3 one of the better examples of the superior handling of a front engined rear wheel drive car.
John, does taking your car for a thrash around the hills at high engine speeds (after warming up of course) accomplish these goals as well? Obviously running at 6000rpm isn't going to increase engine life, but I like to imagine I have a duty to give her the old Italian tuneup at least weekly.
Not so much with newer cars. Computer controls and sensors galore mean that the Italian Tune-up is virtually null & void. I'd recommend learning and doing the basics yourself (fluids / filters / tyre rotation / battery charging) as a way to keep the car newer for longer.
Basically I ageee. But I leave the filter and only change the oil more frequently, use a pump in the dip stick hole. Takes 10 minutes in total. Filter and oil changed at normal intervals. Filter capacity is not affected by dilution under normal conditions.
Not on topic. But I am curious when you are out in public do you have some of your favourite NUTS confront you when they are on day release ? Love you work.
My elderly father always drummed it in to me, that regular oil and filter changes are cheap insurance for the engine!
Great video, cheers John!
Welcome to 2021, when changing the oil in your car is now classified a "Life Hack"
(Love your work John :) )
I see where you're going. Unfortunately manufacturer's seem to be heading towards a point where knowing what's under the bonnet, let alone the state of everything under there, is impossible or might threaten a warranty if dreamed about. People have happily forgotten about maintenance because of this. Eventually, unless something breaks, people will only think about issues if told by a computer that something is wrong.
The funny thing is these 6 month oil changes are actually written in your manual under the conditions described so you basically just follow the user manual
This is especially important for modern Diesel engines
Hi John,
In May 2023 I purchased a new BMW 230i from Glenelg BMW in SA. As part of the purchase, I paid for 5 years servicing up front.
On16/5/24 I took the car to the dealer for its first service. My main concern was for the oil to be changed, as there had been no oil change since I purchased the vehicle. I was informed that the oil would not be changed until 25,000km or 2 years because BMW had decided that the oil they use lasts longer than that used by other manufacturers.
Knowledgeable people all agree that such an extended period between oil changes leads to premature engine failure so oil should be changed at least every 12 months at a minimum.
So, I had to pay $347.74 for the oil change despite having already paid for 5 years servicing. The vehicle had only travelled 5880km but at least 12 months had expired since the vehicle had fresh oil. Had the car travelled 25,000km the oil would have been supplied as part of the service at no charge, so I was penalised for travelling less than this. I cannot see why the dealer should benefit by $347.74 from my not travelling the higher distance. The dealer would not have known how many kilometres I would travel per year so they must have allowed for oil changes at every service in the price of the contract.
BMW policy to change oil at 25,000km leads to a worry for anyone thinking of purchasing a used BMW either privately or through a BMW dealer. It means that a car with 50,000km on the clock could have had only one oil change in its life despite meeting BMW service standards. This is of concern given many negative claims on the internet regarding BMW reliability.
Any comments please?
Geoffrey Pearce
I'm 79 and a bit old school. When I told my optometrist recently that I changed me own oil he clearly didn't believe me and kept saying things like there was no place to get rid of the old oil. Changing your own oil is a nuisance rolling around on the carport frigging around with my Echo's oil filter that never comes off easily, but it sure is cheaper than having it done. These dealers you talk about - what are they? My rule is simple - change it often - I shoot for 5000ks. Some weeks I might not do a good run, but I almost never go a fortnight without doing a 40-50 mile trip. Thats a good tip. BTW I use a good synthetic and I still notice that the engine sounds happier on the new oil.
I paint the exposed metal work under my car except brake components with the old engine oil, we also paint fencing with it to protect it from the winter weather not that you get much cold or wet weather over there.
PEUGEOT 505STI which I owned for 16 years completed 513000 km with regular oil changes every 5000km and many long drives eg 8 times across the Nullarbor from Bowral
and superb cruising ability and comfort ( 2003 to 2016)
👍 Oils Cheap, Engines are Expensive
Yes just DIY change engine oil every 2000 miles. But on some cars, it's pain in the neck to change engine oil
Sound like a Scotty Kilmer comment. LOL
Great advice thanks mate. I actually had some chats and got a quote with your company. Wow they were so lovely, so helpful, no pressure to take it and they gave me heaps of advice when I go into see other dealers.
I get my car serviced every 6 months as I don’t drive it much. Glad to know I’m doing the right thing. Also great advice about the distance driving.
driving your car at least 30 minutes (preferably 45 to 60 minutes) on the highway (limited idling) at least once a week or so does remove much of the oil contaminants. This reduces sludge that gums up piston rings that eventually leads to oil burning and greatly increased gas consumption... and engine damage that costs $thousands. These longer trips done regularly ends up saving you tons of money.
1. Never skip the time interval oil change if it comes before the mileage (it might be even more important than the mileage interval in some cases).
2. Use high quality synthetic oil with the grade recommended by the manufacturer (check service book and don't rely on their advice: some Asian car dealers put 0w-20 to get better fuel economy but when you check the manual you'll see that a higher viscosity might be recommended).
3. Use oils that have the manufacturer recommended standards (ACEA/API, or any other standard that it's requested: VW, BMW, Renault, etc) or else you might damage things like high pressure fuel pumps, turbocharger shafts, catalytic converters, etc.
4. Don't change the brand/standards (ACEA/API) too often, since each has an additive package that might not work very well when mixed with the other one (you cannot completely drain the old oil and with every oil change some mixing occurs).
5. Check oil at regular intervals (top up if necessary, and note the consumption rate).
6. If your cars burns a lot of oil, DO NOT, increase the cold viscosity like most mechanics recommend: from 5w-40 to 10w-40. This will just cause even more wear during cold starts, while doing nothing when the engine is warm (when the oil is thin and is actually going past the piston rigns or valve seams, or whatever leaks there are). Try changing the brand of oil.
7.(optional) Learn to change the oil yourself and you'll afford even more expensive and better oils and filters together with shorter intervals if necessary and still be a lot cheaper than going to a mechanic. (please dispose the oil safely to a recycling center).
If you use synthetic oil you do the change on mileage.
First class advice John, have always done as you suggested here, have to say in 39 years of driving my only breakdown was a clutch cable on a Ford Granada. Engines have never let me down 🙂
You can be forgiven for the cable, Andy.
@@AutoExpertJC Maybe I should have changed it for preventative maintenance reasons, but I was young and most of my brain power went on chasing Ming Molls 👄 (still does I think..)
Ford Capris had the same issue... broke right in the middle of the city in peak hour... the tow truck operator caused 2 grand worth of damage getting it on his flat top...WTF! all that to replace a $10 cable. 😫😖😥😋
Great to see you outside your studio/garage.
That would be the fat cave.
No one goes to the city anymore. 😂
Eventually, you have to venture out to get your supply of toilet paper. 🤣😋
Wife kicked him out.
@@Ka9radio_Mobile9 She was fed up with John always chasing her around, claiming he can give her inlet passage a treat. 😂🤣😋
Vids coming thick and fast John, I like it.
Aircraft piston engines have a mandatory 100 hour oil and filter change limit. The oil in these engines is always clean. Your life depends on it.
if you average say 60 kms in an hour of driving that's 6000 kms.
If you're travelling in outback Australia your life could well depend on how well you have serviced your vehicle engine and gearbox .
i totally fit this demographic. since we retired its a trip to town or the supermarket. 1 km and 1/2 km respectively. i do try to go out for a drive in the country to air our brains and look at the beach at least once a fortnight. we have a new outlander and yes the service interval is 1 year of 15000km. however, i have been in the habit of changing oil at 5000km for many years. our old escape we had for 20 years, was still mechanically sound and purred along beautifully. it was the gearbox that failed sadly. so it seems i have been doing the right thing all these years.
Just wondering was the gearbox an automatic and did you have that serviced every 40 000 kms
I walk to the shop because it's only 3 kilometres return.
In fact I never drive my car unless I'm leaving town.
Any less than 8 kilometres and you're inly doing damage to the engine
@@NewstartGarageOZ I'd say anything under 5km, at least according to my owners manual on a Ford Figo.
@@diegoamorim7924 wouldn't be because they have a vested interest in selling you another vehicle at all
change my oil and filter every 6 months whether it needs it or not, buy oil on special when it comes up like 20 litres at a time, i do like my car so cheap insurance costs me about 50 $ a change and the time to do it.
Yes - it's not exactly a major investment in money or time.
Yep... ditto. Pretty regularly you can get 5l for under $10. We buy 3 which will do 2 oil changes... good quality filter is bugger all. Local mechanic does the bigger services.
Waste of oil.
@@aygwm it can be recycled
Your local tip will have a oil drop off point
Yup, same here. Buy oil in 20/25 litre packs and half a dozen quality filters when i see them on offer.
3000 miles the very most between oil changes, and that's when the running is fairly normal, been as low as 2k when lots of short hops involved.
Oil change costs me a total of £25 on one car and £32ish on the other which has a 7.5 litre sump.
Been decades since i had an engine or running issue, do all my own servicing, garages trying to charge about £70 for one sumpful of oil alone when i can get 20 litres of good synthetic from £80 to £100 delivered straight to my door.
Same applies to other aspects such as proper brake servicing, which almost no garage does correctly any more, decades since i needed to replace a brake caliper.
I always take my kids to the local skidpad for a fortnightly burnout... two problems solved... Commodore inlet tracts cleared and kids outlet tracts given a good workout. 😁😋
Being. Very old. This information has never changed.
Being young and no knowledge of anything practical.
Then this information.
Will save you lots of time and. A small fortune 😉😉
How lovely to see you out in the real world from the Fat Cave!
What lovely locations you were at also. Lovely.
Old buildings, Shrubbery, Rubbish Bins. People even!
Another teaching video too JC. Reckon you may have missed your calling.
#LetMeAtYourKidsIllTeachThem!
#MALS
I like it when I recognise all the locations in a video. Martin Place, Hyde Park and alleys around Surry Hills. Heading towards BMW Sydney in Paddo methinks.
@@heaposan Ah. All Irish to me here in Tauranga, NZ.
Looks a neat part of SYD.
@@graysono It’s called a “city”. A bit like Auckland but bigger. 😀
In the back alley with a manbag and 8 inch flashlight looks a bit suspicious to me. 😂😋
@@mael-strom9707 Super bright LED 8 inch one too!
Good advice. Oil change every 6 months essential for low annual mileage cars. I do it myself with a pump. It's easy.
Waste of oil. Synthetic lasts years in an engine.
@@aygwm at £3 a litre, I'm happy to waste it!
@@carsonj1 correct. But if it’s just sitting in a car that’s not being driven, it stays fine for a really long time. Oil doesn’t go bad like food goes bad from sitting. It goes bad from being abused and never heated up.
@@aygwm Exactly. I generally do short journeys. I change my oil twice a year. A small price to pay to protect my engine.
In colder climates John I think the perfect engine oil/block heater or investing in a heated garage space does wonders to reduce long-term engine wear. But short of that, good fresh oil is the next best thing, that requires a bit of excellent craft in the engine itself as well. 🤙🏻
I live east of Alaska. Just change your oil more often. Use 0W oil and change your oil 2 or 3 times a year. Been doing this for close to 40 years and have had no engine problems. I don't plug in my block heater unless it is colder that -40C.
Thanks John, an ocean of information as always. I always look forward to your video drops.
Very kind, Spoonie. You're welcome.
+1 for regualar service intervals. I just had to do a head gasket on my car, and when the mechanic pulled the head off, there was absolutely no sludge or contaminants anywhere in this 18 year old block. I've been doing 6 month oil changes (myself, because it's $60 and can be done from the convenience of your driveway). I almost never leave the "grid' with the car for long drives, but I do ensure it goes WFO at least once every 10 minutes (once warm) to prevent buildup. However, now I need to service the driveshafts.
Thank you John, once again I have learnt many new engineering details from yourself. Legend!
I have a 2007 VW Diesel Caddy that I have had since new. Been doing this since the warranty expired (kinda) . Now approaching 350k. Still runs great. Though I wouldn't buy another VW, couple of times the customer service has been less than good. And there was that Dieselgate incident......
Hanging around the bins in a Sydney laneway does this tell us anything .love your work
Haha. Wife finally threw him out 😂😂😂
John is a very tidy boy and always puts his Fantales lollies wrappers in the bin. 😂🤣😋
I dare him to walk around China Town at 5am ............Rats the size of cats
After lock down, he likes to get out 😂
Just started watching your TH-cam videos and l like the way you separated the truth from the bull dust being polite in the motor vehicle industry very funny at times well done
Thanks John,
Very good advice. Love the humour as well 😀
Indeed. But I'm pretty sure it won't be followed. In most cases it's hard enough to get drivers to put their cars in for a major service, let alone an inbetween one as well.
Great advice as always and a simpler solution than all the aftermarket suppliers of catch cans and inlet cleaning solutions would have you believe.
Especially for diesel turbos as the oil is drawn for the turbocharger bearings from your sooty oil pan
You really do have a lot of automotive knowledge John.
John, I wonder what effect this would have for all these newer PHEVs coming to market with ever longer battery ranges. Are we going to see issues with these vehicles if they only run their engines for 10% of the typical mileage or the odd highway trip, or will the wear from low temperature loads be less significant if they occur less often? Disclaimer: Owning an older PHEV, I have a vested interest in this answer.
Loving the frequent content John :)
With direct injection motors, a regular dose of injector cleaner is also a top idea. At least every 3 months.
Great advice John! I've always doubled the oil change interval, and never regretted it (change at 5000km instead of 10000km)
You've halved the interval, dude. 5000 is half of 10,000.
That's just stupid and a waste of money and natural resources .
"never regretted it "
Over servicing can stuff with you warranty as well.
A later model engine is more likely to die by driving it like a pussy. Direct port efi is not your friend. Clagged up valves will kill your engine way faster the an over due oil change these days.
@@fredderf551
Changing the oil will only stuff your warranty if you put the wrong grade or spec in. If your timing chain snaps and you have 2 month old oil in and your last book service was 8 months ago they cannot and will not use that as an excuse for warranty denial.
Clogged valves can be cleaned by yourself every year or so, but changing the oil will cause less oil dilution and less airborne oil particle and reduce ‘clagging’. Simple stuff really.
@@graemeottey
"Changing the oil will only stuff your warranty if you put the wrong grade or spec in."
Over servicing can stuff with you warranty. Which part didn't you understand ? The over or the servicing part.
"If your timing chain snaps and you have 2 month old oil."
1 You're in a world of pain. Values, pistons bang.
2 A chain that's old school.
3 Shitty oil will not break a timing chain
"ago they cannot and will not use that as an excuse for warranty denial"
Why not? I do it ,nothing is said. Ill null a warranty so fast if a person doesn't comply with servicing in the warranty booklet. I know this is going to be hard for you to understand, but the people that built the car actually know how it works and how to look after it. Hence, the servicing booklet.
"Clogged valves can be cleaned by yourself every year or so"
So your car has run lean for a whole year or so. Yep that's healthy, Ill go with the shitty oil. You don't work on engines with direct port efi, you send them to be recycled.
"Simple stuff really."
You have no idea what you a talking about. I don't know why you even commented.
The king dick cometh.
Got a 2011 MB w204 C250 1.8L.
Tells me on the dash ‘time for a service. Do the oil and all filters.
Address any spot fires as they happen. It’s now 13 years old.
Been a great car for me. It’s all about how you think and act.
Agree with you wholeheartedly.
The car loves a good fast, long run.
Great insight on a simple fix that easily would get overlooked. Cheers for another great episode. 👍
The art of making a 30 second video last 10 minutes.
In one take too.
Succinct is not a word in his vocabulary. He doesn't understand that repeating the same joke doesn't make it funnier either.
@@sjbechet1111 no one is making you watch John’s videos.
You can put clowns on 2x speed to milk their minimal knowledge as fast as possible
That's what I subscribe for!!
Weird Flex to waste your OWN TIME, then critique the person least responsible.🤔
Absolutely spot on,he’s right about short journeys where the engine never reaches its operating temperature and consequently sump oil dilution sets in,for every gallon of fuel you use approximately one gallon of water is produced depending on the weather and outside temperature both of which create different amounts of water when the engine is running. Buying expensive long live oil’s is not the solution to the problem even though the oil companies say it is,running high mileages and long distances may well stop most of the dilution issues but does stop all the muck,carbon deposits Ect, sloshing around the engine for long periods,using a less expensive oil and charging it every six months for local journeys and twelve months if your doing longer journeys is the better option if you can afford it,more important if your running a diesel to do this because a cleaner engine will last a lot longer than one clogged up with contaminates.
John! Just replaced two tyres on my pig carrier a couple of hours ago, it handles much smoother and safer now! (what would you know, tyres with actual existing treads perform better, even on rain, yesssss!)
Thanks for all the hints about this on your other videos, mate! This is how you actually make a difference on people's lives (helping people keeping themselves alive!), even here in Upsidedownistan Portugal.
By the way, one thing I've never seen addressed nearly anywhere: I've mounted the new tyres in the back. The existing ones were in pristine condition so they were moved to the front and the new ones went to the back. People I know in the transport industry claim this is the best, safest and more economical way of changing tyres. Any comments on this, John? Thanks a HUGE lot, mate!
Even better if you can rotate tyres consistently and have them all wear out at the same time, but putting the new on the rear and moving the rear to the front runs a close second. Rear tyre rubber tends to go hard before they wear out, especially in modern FWD vehicles, so it's good to get some wear on them before they have to be tossed anyway - and putting the best tyres on the rear makes the handling more predictable than having great steer tyres and not knowing when the rear is going to break loose. And since the crappy tyres are on the front, they'll wear out faster, so need to be replaced sooner - which is what you want when they're crappy, so it's a win all round. :-)
@@aussiebloke609 Yeah that's something along those lines that I've been told. Good durability while having better security. And it's cheaper to buy them 2 at a time instead of 4.
Thanks for chiming in!
@@Humongous_Pig_Benis Really? What if you just assumed that 2 half worn out tyres needed replacing but just keep the money for later, then use that plus some more to buy all 4 tyres when needed, wouldn't that be the same? Or actually buy some new tyres on special but keep them until fitting time, you could save some money. On the other hand often I've seen Buy 3 and the fourth one is Free. So no, 2 is not cheaper than 4 overall.
Ha! saw the script "U R" on the bin at 7.01........ great info which is now "common" sense. Thanks John.
Sounds like a really good idea. Thumbs up.
Great to see you out and about John; great advice as always🙂👍
I concur with everything John has said here and would add, when you do your interim oil change get the engine and the oil good and hot (minimum 20KM drive) before you drop it. That way you will get the most benefit from the change as all the contaminants and microscopic foreign particles will still be in suspension in the oil and the thinner hot oil will drain really fast carrying everything out of the sump with it. I'm pretty sure most dealerships don't give two hoots about this when they do oil changes which is something I believe also adds to the incidence of these problems. Wear gloves and mind you don't burn your hands the oil can get very hot indeed.
Great comment John. I’ve been doing oil and filter changes in my cars every 5000km for the last 20 years. I can get pricey when you do 40,000km/year, but now I’ve reverted to a new car again (the Saabs were just getting too unreliable even with the preventative servicing) and fewer kms. I feel it is much more important. Except I took your advice and let your 5 ‘approved’ companies vie for my hard earned and bought a Mazda CX-5 GT (poo brown leather is just not my thing). I am also in discussions with my mechanic to go one step further and change the Aisin gearbox oil every 20,000km. He is telling me that Volvo, Saab and Mazda (and I assume many other car makers) use these gearboxes in the various models. Volvo recommends a gearbox oil change every 80,000km and has had quite a few (according to him) die, with the owner up for a $5,000 dollar repair bill. Saabs recommend 60,000km or 80,000km depending on the model and have had fewer issues. Mazda is also 60,000km for auto gearbox oil transfusions (I’ve been told), but I feel if I keep the oil new every 20,000km there should be no reason for the gearbox to poo poo itself as these other makers have had happen. Thanks you for a most entertaining perspective of Australia’s automotive world. Lloyd
Brilliant John. Retired and the cold start short trips are a regular thing. Golf down the freeway twice a week down the freeway keeps the engine healthy. Just rotate cars around that.
great advice John, totally agree with you, I just doubt it a little bit who is willing to do servicing twice more often when so many people don't even do their regular servicing in appropriate time...
Solid advice. Missed option 2 - buying an ev for your town runabout.
As a mechanic, johns all over it
As a mechanic myself this is the best advice given ever. It's something I have been doing for years
Finally you are out of the garage,,, show us some Australia too
My vs2 commodore passed 1.05 million KMs with no major issues (excluding PS pumps). Changed the oil and filter every 6k, even reused after filtering through shirts occasionally. Cheap oil fine, just change often, it works.
My BMW diesel came up with an “oil level above max” message. Under warranty. New oil, clean out the applicable regeneration filters etc. That was when my primary drive was
You only get a diesel if you're doing a lot of k's...
I own a 2012 VW GTI. It has slightly more than 60k miles/ 100K kM on it. (Beautiful car, highly recommend) and I change oil (pure synthetic) every 6 months. Still runs like new.
8:05 - what a pro, girl walks by and your eyes never leave the camera.
I didn't realise she was a pro.
@@AutoExpertJC touche
He would have needed eyes in the back of his head and not be 'focused' (see what I did there) on the camera.
@@stevelloyd5785 (groans)...yes, we see what you did there. Next time, close the door, please? Kthnxbye.
@@AutoExpertJC Nice! :-)
John thanks for this timely video. I've been down a rabbit hole on this subject for the last six months. You've explained it for me in 10 minutes !
I live in a rural area where every trip is a minimum of half an hour with oil at 90C. Still the VW dealership tried to tell me my Passat TDI needed an added extra " upper air intake clean" to remove carbon build up at 45K. Their claim was that my short trip driving warranted some expensive WD40 sprayed into the manifold. I declined and contacted NRMA technical support who told me the process offered was next to useless.
This added extra wasn't on any service info I could find and when I contacted VW Australia they would neither confirm or deny the need for a service add on for carbon build up.
This was EXCELLENT ! And great to see John shooting outside. Very sensible advice. And I only ever think of these things in terms of engine longevity. I hadn't joined the dots to the opportunity savings. Thank you John.
Diesels in particular can benefit from a decent trash occasionally. Some time back I borrowed a local farmer's pickup/ute. It spent most of it's life just doing short journeys checking on animals etc. I had a long way to go and it was a normally asthmatic diesel so it spent most of 16 hours with the throttle wide open on the motorway. Who needs cruise control when the engine can't drag it up to illegal speeds anyway? A few days after returning it I received a phone call - "what have you done to my truck?" - oh shit - "It does so much better!" - phew. "Erm - as a thank you I gave it an Italian tune up!"
I'm glad to say I didn't learn a thing during this video. Not to say that's a bad thing, it just means I'm doing things right.
Im lucky everywhere is 50km along the Hume. So when my fan doesnt stop running after I have switched off the car, I drive it another 50 to burn off the dpf. Job done for another month.
Another thing, after a big drive, the oil on your dipstick can go straight from F to Add in one tank if you've only done really short driving before. Save yourself $20 and carry a 1L bottle of oil from Super Cheap if the car is going beyond Metro Melbourne for the first time in its life, than be ripped off at the servo for oil.
John "wears two pairs of sunnies" Cadogan. Nice to see you in town mate!
One pair are X-ray specs for the ming molls. 😂🤣😋
Yeah its called reading glasses and then sunglasses.
URM thanks you for the product placement.
Another good advice John. Here in europe, manufacturers service schedule are mostly 30k or two years which is ridiculous, having hot summers and really cold winters imo. I was growing up in different times and do my oil and filter changes every 10 to 15k max. Surprisingly, my cars don't suffer common problems mentioned by you. Coincidence? I don't think so. By the way, if i'm driving in town more than often, I take it for decent motorway blast every few weeks as well, it does work for my cars. Great video as usual John.
I personally have had several cars far past their reasonably life and i never change the oil. Seriously, only add to it when/if needed.
Win win for all here - love the outdoor vids!
Great advice John, thanks.
M3 Competition review incoming.....................................................gonna be so friggin good to get your insight into it!
Hope he takes it to the local skidpad to clear the inlet and outlet tracts. 😁 😋
@@mael-strom9707 🤣
Great info. Love the Doomsday prepper cosplay too 🤣
Thanks John!
I drive 5km to work where my car temp gauge does not even increase by one bar before reaching 😫😫
I change my oil with every tire swap season but will also consider more highway! Last year I made a good highway drive from Toronto to Ottawa 997 kms return trip! Wish to do more of that.
#winter #Canada
Love your work John...So honest.
I've had my car for about 3 years now and I've only driven it about 8000klm.
I had a service done by a mechanic about 2 years ago and I've changed the oil myself a couple of times since then.
The car runs sweet.
Get advice in a funny way🤣
Very true - underengineered roads and over serviced motors, but rightly so, religiously
Always very good advice on these videos of John's. Interesting that my independent mechanic has exactly the same advice, he changes the oil every 5000 km and says the 1.5 L Toyota engine will last my lifetime if we keep doing that.
anything will if u fix it
Pretty sure the egr is mainly for nitrous oxide emissions not increasing volumetric efficiency at low engine loadings... well, in diesels anyway.
Great Advice John
Sound advice Mr Cadogan 👍
yes, the PCB dumps oil vapor in the engine inlet and if you have a turbo & intercooler your intercooler WILL fill-up with condensed oil
Great advice as applies to petrol moters as always run better after a long run.makes sense good info.👍
"Moters"?
@@AutoExpertJC Yes. Moters. They need their oiyal changed often John.
Another great review John! Thank you and keep up the great job you're doing!
Great video John as always. Informative and entertaining 👌
Agree entirely on the more regular oil and filter change which should always be done on a hot engine with the oil allowed to drain for a few minutes to make sure it's all out. Also, on the regular longer drive, do it in third gear close to maximum rpm, we used to call it an Italian tune-up, works wonders.
Difficult or impossible with a CVT?
Also, what are the practicalities of doing this at home - without proper oil recycling/disposal? Loaded question of course... we sell something called the Spider 2500 which might go halfway to making the process easier... even nicer is our Single-Post Portable Service Hoist (smallest footprint high-rise car hoist) - but a tad pricey for most folk…
:P
EGR passage too, if you have one. The exhaust cools in the upper n they tar shut. Its the gas so it varies by location.
Carefull John what you said makes sense and stuff. I own a car that travels at most 1000k,s a year and I change the oil and filter twice a year. PS I work on cars for a living.
In 'Straya, over-regulation is a function of, and proportional to, our under-engineered road system.
Can you make a video on a diy or upgraded exhaust. also back pressure knowledge
Great video John
Thank you.
Do more of these
What are your thoughts on blocking the egr and rerouting the pcv?
I find that Black Sambuca assists in the removal of any blockage/s I may have...depending on the amount of blockage the non-diluted Sambuca req'd is around 2 x 700ml/tank....no family wishes to be around when the time comes for the blockage to remove itself however...I will take your advice onboard and make sure that this a 6mthly operation with a Chivas addition just before Christmas...
Most manufacturers specify constant short trips as a "Severe Condition", which usually involves an extra "in between" service. Most people would be capable of doing their own in between oil change if they were shown the correct way and had some basic tools. TAFE colleges used to run night courses on how to maintain your own car, if anyone is prepared to learn how to do it you can save some serious money as well as not having the inconvenience of taking your car somewhere to get it done. I did some automotive teaching for TAFE years ago and I taught a group of women how to maintain their cars, nearly all of them continued to do their own minor oil changes and basic services. This was back in the days when cars only had 12 months new car warranty though, if the car is still under warranty you have to get a qualified mechanic to do it to keep your warranty intact.
I remember being very excited seeing a basic maintenance course 'for women' in the listing of community courses. This was in the '80s and I was a teenager. I took a look at the course description.
How to check your oil, brake fluid, coolant, add washer fluid, etc.
Really???
At least repair manuals for just about every make and model were easy to get a hold of!
Great Video, Great advice!
So good! Can you do a review on the fuel doctor?
Well as someone who actually reads the owners manual of their car from cover to cover this is not news. By the way just halving the intervals may not be enough to preserve the warranty, read the fine print in the manual, anything other than steady state highway motoring in mild dust free air with no hills or rain is classed as 'severe service' in some cars this can be as low as 3 monthly for some items depending on conditions.
The BMW M3 one of the better examples of the superior handling of a front engined rear wheel drive car.
True re M3s except the G80's grown to 1730kgs, some 140kgs more than the F80. Some 'competitive' weight gain i guess...🙄
Love your work John 👍😊
John, does taking your car for a thrash around the hills at high engine speeds (after warming up of course) accomplish these goals as well?
Obviously running at 6000rpm isn't going to increase engine life, but I like to imagine I have a duty to give her the old Italian tuneup at least weekly.
Not so much with newer cars. Computer controls and sensors galore mean that the Italian Tune-up is virtually null & void. I'd recommend learning and doing the basics yourself (fluids / filters / tyre rotation / battery charging) as a way to keep the car newer for longer.
Basically I ageee. But I leave the filter and only change the oil more frequently, use a pump in the dip stick hole. Takes 10 minutes in total.
Filter and oil changed at normal intervals. Filter capacity is not affected by dilution under normal conditions.
Not on topic. But I am curious when you are out in public do you have some of your favourite NUTS confront you when they are on day release ? Love you work.
Thanks, John.