As a gardener of many years one of the best pieces of advice was to set aside a bit of time to STOP , and enjoy the garden. Stop the weeding and pruning and mowing and so on and take in where your garden is that day and appreciate the little and big miracles that take place in the garden as the seasons unfold. This Stop does not have to be lengthy maybe just 5 minutes but we can get so caught up in the tasks that need to be done or we want to get done that we miss out on the show being put on around us. Your tips were right on Scott , just wanted to add this one. Cheers.
Well said! One of the biggest benefits of our garden is just hanging out in it with the dogs. Hard to put a price on that. Taking a few moments to just relax and be thankful for something nice is very good for your health.
So true about starting out small. I've seen enthusiastic new gardeners plant huge gardens, then midway through summer realizing the work that continues to go into it, just kind of give up.
Yes'sa! I now know just how important it is to keep a good gardening journal Last year I used a simple calendar and note pad. It was suffice but this year I'm better prepared. I've already learned so much more in the last 6 weeks of gardening than I had understood last year. Be happy.....grow well! :)
Love that you point out optimism as being a gardener strength. Last year I lost almost everything in my garden to pests and mildew etc. the season was so cold and rainy here in Alberta. But you’re right! It’s true! Gardeners,even new gardeners like myself don’t seem to have all that much trouble turning a frown upside down when it comes to planning and looking forward to that “next years” garden. I’m jazzed to try my single boxcar willie tomato seed and to plant mini pumpkins for my daughter this season.... even though it’s -18c today with 20cm of snow on the way 🤪 I totally look forward to the day when I can get my small garden going!
Great ideas! Every year I have the intention to keep a record of my garden and I’ll start but I usually stop writing after 2-4 weeks. I’m horrible at keeping records I guess but this year I’m going to try to keep notes on my phone and think that might be better than a traditional journal.
I completely agree that planting perennial fruit plants,bushes, and trees should be a priority but......you need time to learn where the best location is. I have been gardening for about 5 years and am still learning about the micro climates, shaded areas, wind protected areas, and naturally wet/dry areas. I have drawn a different garden plan every year where potential locations change based on new information or a new "picture" of how I want the garden to look or function. I envy those of you who can "just do it"!
You're very right, Michelle, but I rarely "just do it". What I don't show is the hours, days, and weeks that I often take before deciding where to plant and what to plant. I often stand in the garden and just observe. Every day brings changes and noticing how the microclimates change can make a big difference. Thanks for a wise suggestion.
I told my neighbor , you feed yourself to stay strong and productive well you need to do the same for your soil and garden beds if you expect the same from your plants !!!
Yes! I've come to the conclusion that my first and most vital job is to build & maintain healthy soil. All sorts of good things can spring forth (pun intended) from that.
Part of the criteria to be president should be a history of being a successful organic gardener. Thanks for your positivity Gardener Scott! I appreciate your kind encouragement as I face my clay soil in Virginia.
I as a gardener, I learn what my plants like, and how much of water they like. For years I was trying to grow Longtail corianders and today I have lots of them/ It was worth it trying. and being patient
The positive attitude is so vital, and it spills over onto other parts of our lives. A person who's willing to work now and reap the rewards months and years later is exhibiting a certain hopefulness for the future. They're developing patience, confidence and other strong personality traits. Naturally that's part of why it's great to get young people involved in gardening, but it's important for all ages.
Thank you for making this video! I've been thinking about gardening for a long time, but I've always felt pretty intimidated by it. When I do start gardening, I'd like to start with tomatoes, considering I think that they're yummy and I've heard that they're good plants for beginners. :)
No it will not impede much at all. I've used it for years in the spring and late autumn. Just don't buy the cheap fleece. The heavier fleece the more quality and it will last several years. Cheers
I have no in-ground space to garden in so containers are my only option. My edibles are all grown in 5 to 7 gallon plastic pots. I'm in Zone 10a. I have no indoor seed starting area set up. My question is: Why do most of the vegetables I try to grow directly from seed outdoors reach about 1 to 6 inches in growth and then never grow to full height much less fruition, yet well-started seedlings grow like crazy? The exceptions are beans, peas, rutabagas and carrots which do just fine from seed. But beets, scallions, chard and lettuce just hang fire. It can't be the soil, because I can plant seedlings next to the stunted seed-grown plants and they take off like weeds! Any ideas?
My guess would be that the soil in the pot doesn't have the specific nutrients or minerals that the weak plants need, probably nitrogen. Seedlings need less nutrition than full-grown plants. The ones you have trouble with should have extra nitrogen. Beans and peas can produce their own nitrogen in their roots. Roots like rutabagas and carrots don't need it as much. Try using fertilizer with nitrogen and see if it improves.
Keep it simple and start small for sure! If a person has one little window box with some nice herbs in it, they are a gardener and should be applauded and encouraged. Maybe they'll end up with a quarter acre garden one day, maybe a few small containers is enough for them. Whatever works for them is fine with me. I've been gardening seriously for about five years and my garden still isn't done, and it's certainly not perfect - and it will never be "done" or "perfect." And that's OK. :)
If I may be so bold to add another tip, this came down to me from my Grandad, a very successful career gardener. "Hoe every day with a Y in it" he told me. "Weeds will never get the upper hand on you, you will see problems, pests and diseases before they become a problem, you can hoe a clear area in 10 mins, saving hours later on."
Hi Scott, thanks very much for your videos. Within a matter of weeks, I am moving out of the City back to the countryside. (I shall be moving from the southeast UK to the Western side of UK wher climate is wetter). I will set up 1 or 2 raised beds as soon as I can. Can you give me advice on which very basic packets of heirloom veg seeds I should buy to sew this spring?
That's great! I'm glad to hear of your opportunity. I would check with gardeners in your new area to see what they recommend. For me, I recommend peas, beans, lettuce, and kale as basic veg, but you should consider growing what you eat. What would you love to walk out and harvest and then eat? That's what you should grow.
Thank you so much:-) I dream about my own garden! I I have a question how do you record your gardening observations? Just by writing notes daily or it is organized by type of plants?
I do it a few ways. I do much of it through photos and videos, but a garden journal is a sure way to document. Weather, seeds, plants. Daily, weekly. Lessons to be learned and successes to remember. Here's my video on doing that: th-cam.com/video/bLx0VNCaiQg/w-d-xo.html
I usually end up with a combination. I prefer bottom watering, but it can be easy to overwater them and the bottom of the pot becomes soaked. And by withholding water, waiting for the soil moisture level to balance, the top half gets too dry. Particularly with bigger seedlings, I'll do a day of bottom, wait a day, and then do the top.
Great advice. In my North side gardens (all in totes elevated to belt level) I thought I had put in some really good topsoil, peat and mulch, but lately, I have noticed a lot of older leaves getting tiny spots on the leaves. It happens on Sweet Potatoes, Beans and even min-bell Peppers. Maybe acid rain? My Tomatoes seem unaffected. I have not seen many bugs, but I have been looking. I bought some worm castings and Epsom salt, hoping to save my plants. Do you have any ideas about this. I'm in Central Florida, and here we garden year-round. Thanks. Love your videos!
Thanks. Take a close look at the spot and it might help identify the problem. Recesses or holes all the way through the leaf might be insects. Small spots that grow into blotches might be fungal. Spots with halos are often bacterial. Spots that show damage and don't grow or change might be chemical. If you can narrow it down you can probably find a fix online.
@@GardenerScott OK, I'll try it. Since we talked, I went out and closely looked underneath damaged leaves and the spots look like miniature windows with slightly purplish tint. They are even on the weeds like Bidens Alba. (Mexican Nettle). The spots are now on most of my garden plants, front yard and back.
This year, I´ve got different types of veggetables, I want to save the seeds. But I have a very small garden. I´m trying to plan my garden, but I am stucked... I have 5 type of peppers, I want to keep seeds. How far away should I place the different peppers to have 100% seeds - no cross polinations? Or tomatosoes or eggplans or squash or...? What is the distance? Can you help me? Thanks a lot! :)
Peppers will self-pollinate so there is low risk of cross pollination. But it is possible, so plant them as far apart as you can. To be 100% sure they need to be at least 400 feet apart. Another way is to watch the flowers and fruit carefully and harvest the fruit that is least likely to have a cross pollination issue. Look for the first flower on a plant. It will pollinate very quickly and if there are no other flowers yet on the other plants, there's no risk. You can also put a cloth bag around new flowers to keep insects from cross pollinating.
I plan ahead to grow extra so the. Rabbit's have some food. I grow some cabbage also just to feed the rabbits. . At the end of the season the rabbit.s are so full I have all my . Lettuce and kale and cabbage to myself.. I realized I am not planning just for as myself I have to take in consideration then I have four Rabbits an thay have to eat an feed thair babyies
Right on. I try to allow for extra plants as sacrificial for the insects as well. I avoid spraying any kinds of pesticides (even organic ones) as much as I possibly can, preferring instead to rely on encouraging a balance by attracting beneficial insects, planting companions that deter non-beneficials, and just allowing for some "wasted" plants. Seeds are cheaper than poison, anyway.
@Dystopia Gear A sacrificial plant video is on my list. I'm waiting until winter is over so I can show growing plants and how I use them at traps. Thanks for a great suggestion.
Tomatoes, beans, peas, and peppers are the easiest because they tend to self pollinate. If you want to save seeds from plants with big flowers like squash, melons, and cucumbers, just grow one variety of them. I do that. I'll grow just one type of cucumber in the year that I plan to save cucumber seeds.
@@GardenerScott ok Thanks!! Your the first person who has responded back To a question I have on gardening from the people I follow. I always though if I plant 4 different types of tomatoes then I can't save seeds. So learned something new everyday! Thanks again for the reply and I like ur Channel. We live in the same zone so I like to follow u even more knowing that.
You can also plant a short season and longer season variety so they’re not blooming at the same time. And for those that don’t know, most seeds will last for years if properly stored. So you can plant a different variety each year and rotate through. The hardest part for me is deciding what NOT to plant! 🙃
Assuming it's not a variety that should taste bitter, nutrition, water, and heat are the big factors leading to bitter taste. If the soil is poor and lacking in nutrients, the plant will be stressed and turn bitter. If the soil isn't consistently moist, the plant will be stressed too. If the temperature rises above 75F, lettuce will start to bolt and turn bitter in that process. Harvesting when it's young, before the plant ages, will keep it sweet too.
Every "failed" plant is really just a success at providing more material for the compost. :)
True that's how I've always thought about it
I love the encouragement thrown in with the realities of gardening.
As a gardener of many years one of the best pieces of advice was to set aside a bit of time to STOP , and enjoy the garden. Stop the weeding and pruning and mowing and so on and take in where your garden is that day and appreciate the little and big miracles that take place in the garden as the seasons unfold. This Stop does not have to be lengthy maybe just 5 minutes but we can get so caught up in the tasks that need to be done or we want to get done that we miss out on the show being put on around us. Your tips were right on Scott , just wanted to add this one. Cheers.
Well said! One of the biggest benefits of our garden is just hanging out in it with the dogs. Hard to put a price on that. Taking a few moments to just relax and be thankful for something nice is very good for your health.
Thanks for an outstanding sentiment, James. I completely agree.
Helena becerra Jimenez
#11: Devote time to continuing your education. Even an experienced gardener can find something useful from a video on tips for beginners!
Absolutely! I watch beginner videos often. Thanks.
So true about starting out small. I've seen enthusiastic new gardeners plant huge gardens, then midway through summer realizing the work that continues to go into it, just kind of give up.
Yes'sa! I now know just how important it is to keep a good gardening journal Last year I used a simple calendar and note pad. It was suffice but this year I'm better prepared. I've already learned so much more in the last 6 weeks of gardening than I had understood last year. Be happy.....grow well! :)
Good for you, Becky. I wish you great gardening success.
Great info, and not just for beginner gardeners. Thanks Scott.
Thanks, June.
Great advice as always, Scott! Thanks for sharing
Love that you point out optimism as being a gardener strength. Last year I lost almost everything in my garden to pests and mildew etc. the season was so cold and rainy here in Alberta. But you’re right! It’s true! Gardeners,even new gardeners like myself don’t seem to have all that much trouble turning a frown upside down when it comes to planning and looking forward to that “next years” garden. I’m jazzed to try my single boxcar willie tomato seed and to plant mini pumpkins for my daughter this season.... even though it’s -18c today with 20cm of snow on the way 🤪 I totally look forward to the day when I can get my small garden going!
Good for you! You're a true gardener.
Great ideas! Every year I have the intention to keep a record of my garden and I’ll start but I usually stop writing after 2-4 weeks. I’m horrible at keeping records I guess but this year I’m going to try to keep notes on my phone and think that might be better than a traditional journal.
I have the same problem, so you're not alone. I think the phone idea can be a good way to track progress.
I completely agree that planting perennial fruit plants,bushes, and trees should be a priority but......you need time to learn where the best location is. I have been gardening for about 5 years and am still learning about the micro climates, shaded areas, wind protected areas, and naturally wet/dry areas. I have drawn a different garden plan every year where potential locations change based on new information or a new "picture" of how I want the garden to look or function. I envy those of you who can "just do it"!
You're very right, Michelle, but I rarely "just do it". What I don't show is the hours, days, and weeks that I often take before deciding where to plant and what to plant. I often stand in the garden and just observe. Every day brings changes and noticing how the microclimates change can make a big difference. Thanks for a wise suggestion.
I told my neighbor , you feed yourself to stay strong and productive well you need to do the same for your soil and garden beds if you expect the same from your plants !!!
Good advice!
Yes! I've come to the conclusion that my first and most vital job is to build & maintain healthy soil. All sorts of good things can spring forth (pun intended) from that.
Part of the criteria to be president should be a history of being a successful organic gardener. Thanks for your positivity Gardener Scott! I appreciate your kind encouragement as I face my clay soil in Virginia.
Thanks! I like your idea.
I as a gardener, I learn what my plants like, and how much of water they like. For years I was trying to grow Longtail corianders and today I have lots of them/ It was worth it trying. and being patient
Saving seeds don't save money. It frees up money to spend on other seeds.
I love that! 😆
True that!
So true!!!!
@Steve Laubach cheaper, smarter and safer than going out partying, too.
You said exactly what I was thinking ، Great video, as usual👍👍
Thanks!
The positive attitude is so vital, and it spills over onto other parts of our lives. A person who's willing to work now and reap the rewards months and years later is exhibiting a certain hopefulness for the future. They're developing patience, confidence and other strong personality traits. Naturally that's part of why it's great to get young people involved in gardening, but it's important for all ages.
Great Informative video - Thanks
I would add that always strive to learn more. There is always more to learn
Absolutely!
Hats. A cool fishing hat is good.
Be good. Grow!
Absolutely! 👍
Thank you for making this video! I've been thinking about gardening for a long time, but I've always felt pretty intimidated by it.
When I do start gardening, I'd like to start with tomatoes, considering I think that they're yummy and I've heard that they're good plants for beginners. :)
Good for you! I'm glad to help.
Thank you for another inspirational, motivational and educational video.
You're very welcome, Daniel.
great video , thanks
Bardzo mi się podobają Twoje filmy, bo są pozytywne, informacyjne i nie przeklinasz ;).
Dziękuję Ci. Cieszę się, że ci się podobają.
morning Scott, thank you for the videos. Do you have anything on frost protection covers? More on fleece, will it impede sunlight?
No it will not impede much at all. I've used it for years in the spring and late autumn. Just don't buy the cheap fleece. The heavier fleece the more quality and it will last several years. Cheers
Love this video. Thanks so much
Thanks. You're very welcome.
Great advice Gardener Scott. What type of plants/flowers attract Lady bugs?
Thanks. Dill, cilantro, cosmos, yarrow, and coreopsis are among the plants in my garden I use to attract lady bugs.
I have no in-ground space to garden in so containers are my only option. My edibles are all grown in 5 to 7 gallon plastic pots. I'm in Zone 10a. I have no indoor seed starting area set up. My question is: Why do most of the vegetables I try to grow directly from seed outdoors reach about 1 to 6 inches in growth and then never grow to full height much less fruition, yet well-started seedlings grow like crazy? The exceptions are beans, peas, rutabagas and carrots which do just fine from seed. But beets, scallions, chard and lettuce just hang fire. It can't be the soil, because I can plant seedlings next to the stunted seed-grown plants and they take off like weeds! Any ideas?
My guess would be that the soil in the pot doesn't have the specific nutrients or minerals that the weak plants need, probably nitrogen. Seedlings need less nutrition than full-grown plants. The ones you have trouble with should have extra nitrogen. Beans and peas can produce their own nitrogen in their roots. Roots like rutabagas and carrots don't need it as much. Try using fertilizer with nitrogen and see if it improves.
@@GardenerScott Thank you!!!
Keep it simple and start small for sure! If a person has one little window box with some nice herbs in it, they are a gardener and should be applauded and encouraged. Maybe they'll end up with a quarter acre garden one day, maybe a few small containers is enough for them. Whatever works for them is fine with me.
I've been gardening seriously for about five years and my garden still isn't done, and it's certainly not perfect - and it will never be "done" or "perfect." And that's OK. :)
You're right. We're always doing more and are never done.
If I may be so bold to add another tip, this came down to me from my Grandad, a very successful career gardener. "Hoe every day with a Y in it" he told me. "Weeds will never get the upper hand on you, you will see problems, pests and diseases before they become a problem, you can hoe a clear area in 10 mins, saving hours later on."
That's a great suggestion. I don't hoe every day, but I pull a few weeds every time I go to the garden.
Hi Scott, thanks very much for your videos. Within a matter of weeks, I am moving out of the City back to the countryside. (I shall be moving from the southeast UK to the Western side of UK wher climate is wetter). I will set up 1 or 2 raised beds as soon as I can. Can you give me advice on which very basic packets of heirloom veg seeds I should buy to sew this spring?
That's great! I'm glad to hear of your opportunity. I would check with gardeners in your new area to see what they recommend. For me, I recommend peas, beans, lettuce, and kale as basic veg, but you should consider growing what you eat. What would you love to walk out and harvest and then eat? That's what you should grow.
@@GardenerScott Thanks very much for your reply. Great advice!
Thank you so much:-) I dream about my own garden! I I have a question how do you record your gardening observations? Just by writing notes daily or it is organized by type of plants?
I do it a few ways. I do much of it through photos and videos, but a garden journal is a sure way to document. Weather, seeds, plants. Daily, weekly. Lessons to be learned and successes to remember. Here's my video on doing that: th-cam.com/video/bLx0VNCaiQg/w-d-xo.html
On seedling tomatoes, is it better to water from the top, bottom, or a combination of both?
I usually end up with a combination. I prefer bottom watering, but it can be easy to overwater them and the bottom of the pot becomes soaked. And by withholding water, waiting for the soil moisture level to balance, the top half gets too dry. Particularly with bigger seedlings, I'll do a day of bottom, wait a day, and then do the top.
Great advice. In my North side gardens (all in totes elevated to belt level) I thought I had put in some really good topsoil, peat and mulch, but lately, I have noticed a lot of older leaves getting tiny spots on the leaves. It happens on Sweet Potatoes, Beans and even min-bell Peppers. Maybe acid rain? My Tomatoes seem unaffected. I have not seen many bugs, but I have been looking. I bought some worm castings and Epsom salt, hoping to save my plants. Do you have any ideas about this. I'm in Central Florida, and here we garden year-round. Thanks. Love your videos!
Thanks. Take a close look at the spot and it might help identify the problem. Recesses or holes all the way through the leaf might be insects. Small spots that grow into blotches might be fungal. Spots with halos are often bacterial. Spots that show damage and don't grow or change might be chemical. If you can narrow it down you can probably find a fix online.
@@GardenerScott OK, I'll try it. Since we talked, I went out and closely looked underneath damaged leaves and the spots look like miniature windows with slightly purplish tint. They are even on the weeds like Bidens Alba. (Mexican Nettle). The spots are now on most of my garden plants, front yard and back.
This year, I´ve got different types of veggetables, I want to save the seeds. But I have a very small garden. I´m trying to plan my garden, but I am stucked... I have 5 type of peppers, I want to keep seeds. How far away should I place the different peppers to have 100% seeds - no cross polinations? Or tomatosoes or eggplans or squash or...? What is the distance? Can you help me? Thanks a lot! :)
Peppers will self-pollinate so there is low risk of cross pollination. But it is possible, so plant them as far apart as you can. To be 100% sure they need to be at least 400 feet apart. Another way is to watch the flowers and fruit carefully and harvest the fruit that is least likely to have a cross pollination issue. Look for the first flower on a plant. It will pollinate very quickly and if there are no other flowers yet on the other plants, there's no risk. You can also put a cloth bag around new flowers to keep insects from cross pollinating.
I plan ahead to grow extra so the. Rabbit's have some food. I grow some cabbage also just to feed the rabbits. . At the end of the season the rabbit.s are so full I have all my . Lettuce and kale and cabbage to myself.. I realized I am not planning just for as myself I have to take in consideration then I have four Rabbits an thay have to eat an feed thair babyies
That's a good strategy. I allow for sacrificial plants to the rabbits too.
@@GardenerScott thankyou for your videos
Right on. I try to allow for extra plants as sacrificial for the insects as well. I avoid spraying any kinds of pesticides (even organic ones) as much as I possibly can, preferring instead to rely on encouraging a balance by attracting beneficial insects, planting companions that deter non-beneficials, and just allowing for some "wasted" plants. Seeds are cheaper than poison, anyway.
@@GardenerScott if you haven't already, making a video about sacrificial plants and "trap" plants might be a great idea! Hint hint.
@Dystopia Gear A sacrificial plant video is on my list. I'm waiting until winter is over so I can show growing plants and how I use them at traps. Thanks for a great suggestion.
How can you be sure a seed is an open pollinator?
Check the seed packet or source of the seed. It will say hybrid if it's a hybrid. If it doesn't say that, it is most likely open pollinated.
What plants can I keep seeds from without it being cross pollinated?? I would love to start doing that!
Tomatoes, beans, peas, and peppers are the easiest because they tend to self pollinate. If you want to save seeds from plants with big flowers like squash, melons, and cucumbers, just grow one variety of them. I do that. I'll grow just one type of cucumber in the year that I plan to save cucumber seeds.
@@GardenerScott ok Thanks!! Your the first person who has responded back To a question I have on gardening from the people I follow. I always though if I plant 4 different types of tomatoes then I can't save seeds. So learned something new everyday! Thanks again for the reply and I like ur Channel. We live in the same zone so I like to follow u even more knowing that.
You can also plant a short season and longer season variety so they’re not blooming at the same time. And for those that don’t know, most seeds will last for years if properly stored. So you can plant a different variety each year and rotate through. The hardest part for me is deciding what NOT to plant! 🙃
Sometimes my lettuce is bitter! Any advice?
Assuming it's not a variety that should taste bitter, nutrition, water, and heat are the big factors leading to bitter taste. If the soil is poor and lacking in nutrients, the plant will be stressed and turn bitter. If the soil isn't consistently moist, the plant will be stressed too. If the temperature rises above 75F, lettuce will start to bolt and turn bitter in that process. Harvesting when it's young, before the plant ages, will keep it sweet too.
👍👍👍👌
First