OMG Tony, it’s so beautiful, it’s so much bigger than I thought, with the stanchions and the Bimini there is plenty of room there.The inside is just perfect! A big thank you to Carrie too! Nena California
Hey Tony, I gave you a thumbs up to counter that ridiculous 1 thumbs down. I appreciate the walk around, but I can't wait to see her out in the open air where you can get back for a long shot of her. That will be an auspicious day. Regards, Solomon
Thanks Solomon Yes, I almost always get a few thumbs downs, and in the early days it used to upset me, but, like so many things in life, I've learnt from experience and totally ignore them nowadays. Thumbs ups are highly appreciated though. We need to concentrate on the positives in life 👍👍
Looking lovely, can't wait to see it on the water, I'm sure you as well. By the way, did you know the plastic bands you cut to open the packaging are designed to be opened without a knife? if you flip over the joint where one end of the band joins the other, you'll see one of the ends is not glued entirely and it can be lifted and peeled away from the other end, thereby undoing the band and releasing the strap.
Hi Tony! I realize now from your explanations (small "flood-proof" cockpit, deck boxes on the sides, Bimini on top) that you will have a very safe cockpit, ready for the North Sea. My question is, if I were to build my own Benford Dory, and was going to use Kevlar fiber to cover instead of plain glass fiber, would that be useless overkill (nevermind the cost) or would there be some merit to it? If not the entire boat, at least some strategic areas, like the bottom, the freeboards, the focsle around the winch, cockpit and decks... p.s. Hatch work is outstanding, as everything else so far on this boat. Kudos!
Thanks Pierre. There would certainly be some merit to using Kevlar, and some considerable expense! It would improve abrasion resistance. However, if it's hull strength you're after, you'd be better off putting the Kevlar on the inside or sandwiched between the 2 layers of ply - it's not easy to do though. Maybe if you built using temporary frames, as Benford intends, and then Kevlared the inside when the frames have been removed... 🤔
Speaking as someone who also intends building a Benford Dory in the near future, and has done a lot of research into all things related, I might be able to throw some light onto your questions. There are a number of factors that are important to us when it comes to protecting the hull.. wear and impact resistance being the two main ones. When it comes to wear, Dynel outperforms even Kevlar. (Pete & Annie Hill used Dynel to sheath the hull of Badger.) It has been used in the kayaking community for many years, mostly on areas that suffer a lot of wear. In white-water kayaking, the ends of the kayak tend to impact with rocks a lot, and so they are usually sheathed in Dynel. Likewise for hard chines, the tips and leading edges of paddles, etc. But it's generally not used for wear/abrasion resistance on the entire underside of the kayak, even though they're often scraping over rocks. Dynel conforms well to composite curves and wets out well. But it soaks up A LOT of resin. However, whilst it wears well, it doesn't contribute to strength at all. Not that strength is really a concern for us.. that's taken care of by the layers of fibreglass over the plywood. Where Kevlar really shines is impact resistance. But it also has quite good abrasion resistance. From an impact resistance perspective, Kevlar performs best when sandwiched between other materials. This is why I plan on adding a layer of Kevlar between each of the plywood layers of my hull. Kevlar is difficult to cut and sand, and is stiff, so it doesn't conform to compound curves as easily. It's also hydroscopic, and so in its raw state, must be kept away from moisture at all times. What I'm currently thinking of for sheathing the hull below the waterline, is Diolen. The tensile strength is not as high as Kevlar, but impact and wear resistance (the things we're most interested in on the outside of the hull) are on a par with Kevlar. It's also considerably cheaper than Kevlar. Handling and wetting-out characteristics are much the same as Kevlar. Diolen also has the advantage of being only about 1/10 the stiffness of Kevlar, meaning it will conform better to compound curves. So to summarise, I'm going for Kevlar sandwiched between plywood, where the superior tensile strength will do the most good, and a final layer of Diolen sheathing over the fibreglass to protect the hull & keel below the waterline from wear. I hope that's of some help.. (Much of the best info on various cloths, their pros and cons, can be found on canoe/kayaking sites. They have a lot of experience with them all, and the nature of the sport means the testing is pretty rigorous. Well worth the time to research there.) Edit: None of this should be taken as suggesting that any of these materials can *replace* fibreglass, just in case that's what you were wondering. The boat still needs to be basically built of ply and glass/epoxy. The exotic materials are only an overkill addition, not a substitution. Fibreglass/epoxy has many necessary properties that the exotics alone do not.
I had thought of sandwiching between two layers of ply, but you're right: unless one plans on spending most of his time in the roaring 40°s, or in pirate infested waters, the cost/benefit analysis would hardly justify the use of Kevlar. One would be better advised to read the Gougeon Brothers and cold molding methods like you are doing on Tapatya. The only issue remaining would be abrasion protection on deck I guess, and there again, more cost effective materials probably already exist, like anti-skid vinyl matting and the like. I would still put down something beefy around the windless up front and right in front of the rudder on the poop deck. For that I always thought of diamond metal plating, and I'm sure George Buhler would've approuved 😇👌 A super weekend to you my friend✌️😊
Great progress
Thanks Cliff😀
OMG Tony, it’s so beautiful, it’s so much bigger than I thought, with the stanchions and the Bimini there is plenty of room there.The inside is just perfect! A big thank you to Carrie too!
Nena
California
Thank you Nena 😃 I’ll pass your thanks on to Kerry too 😃😂
Hey Tony, I gave you a thumbs up to counter that ridiculous 1 thumbs down. I appreciate the walk around, but I can't wait to see her out in the open air where you can get back for a long shot of her. That will be an auspicious day. Regards, Solomon
Thanks Solomon
Yes, I almost always get a few thumbs downs, and in the early days it used to upset me, but, like so many things in life, I've learnt from experience and totally ignore them nowadays. Thumbs ups are highly appreciated though. We need to concentrate on the positives in life 👍👍
damn, tony.... you cliff-hung me on the sliding sunroof companionway hatch install. that was mean...lol
😂😂😂👍
Seconded! Extremely mean.. you're getting better at this cliff-hanger stuff, Tony. (lovely work, as always, btw!)
Oh yeah.. still working on the lightning discussion.. haven't forgotten about it!
Thanks Garryck 👍
All good mate 😃
What is the material that came in the flat box? You cut a strip of it and epoxied it onto the frame. Thanks.
It's a material called Tufnol. It's a type of phenolic resin
Looking lovely, can't wait to see it on the water, I'm sure you as well.
By the way, did you know the plastic bands you cut to open the packaging are designed to be opened without a knife? if you flip over the joint where one end of the band joins the other, you'll see one of the ends is not glued entirely and it can be lifted and peeled away from the other end, thereby undoing the band and releasing the strap.
Thank you K.W.
No I didn't know that. I'll have a look next time 👍😀
Hi Tony! I realize now from your explanations (small "flood-proof" cockpit, deck boxes on the sides, Bimini on top) that you will have a very safe cockpit, ready for the North Sea. My question is, if I were to build my own Benford Dory, and was going to use Kevlar fiber to cover instead of plain glass fiber, would that be useless overkill (nevermind the cost) or would there be some merit to it? If not the entire boat, at least some strategic areas, like the bottom, the freeboards, the focsle around the winch, cockpit and decks... p.s. Hatch work is outstanding, as everything else so far on this boat. Kudos!
Thanks Pierre.
There would certainly be some merit to using Kevlar, and some considerable expense! It would improve abrasion resistance. However, if it's hull strength you're after, you'd be better off putting the Kevlar on the inside or sandwiched between the 2 layers of ply - it's not easy to do though. Maybe if you built using temporary frames, as Benford intends, and then Kevlared the inside when the frames have been removed... 🤔
Speaking as someone who also intends building a Benford Dory in the near future, and has done a lot of research into all things related, I might be able to throw some light onto your questions.
There are a number of factors that are important to us when it comes to protecting the hull.. wear and impact resistance being the two main ones. When it comes to wear, Dynel outperforms even Kevlar. (Pete & Annie Hill used Dynel to sheath the hull of Badger.) It has been used in the kayaking community for many years, mostly on areas that suffer a lot of wear. In white-water kayaking, the ends of the kayak tend to impact with rocks a lot, and so they are usually sheathed in Dynel. Likewise for hard chines, the tips and leading edges of paddles, etc. But it's generally not used for wear/abrasion resistance on the entire underside of the kayak, even though they're often scraping over rocks.
Dynel conforms well to composite curves and wets out well. But it soaks up A LOT of resin. However, whilst it wears well, it doesn't contribute to strength at all. Not that strength is really a concern for us.. that's taken care of by the layers of fibreglass over the plywood.
Where Kevlar really shines is impact resistance. But it also has quite good abrasion resistance. From an impact resistance perspective, Kevlar performs best when sandwiched between other materials. This is why I plan on adding a layer of Kevlar between each of the plywood layers of my hull. Kevlar is difficult to cut and sand, and is stiff, so it doesn't conform to compound curves as easily. It's also hydroscopic, and so in its raw state, must be kept away from moisture at all times.
What I'm currently thinking of for sheathing the hull below the waterline, is Diolen. The tensile strength is not as high as Kevlar, but impact and wear resistance (the things we're most interested in on the outside of the hull) are on a par with Kevlar. It's also considerably cheaper than Kevlar. Handling and wetting-out characteristics are much the same as Kevlar. Diolen also has the advantage of being only about 1/10 the stiffness of Kevlar, meaning it will conform better to compound curves.
So to summarise, I'm going for Kevlar sandwiched between plywood, where the superior tensile strength will do the most good, and a final layer of Diolen sheathing over the fibreglass to protect the hull & keel below the waterline from wear.
I hope that's of some help.. (Much of the best info on various cloths, their pros and cons, can be found on canoe/kayaking sites. They have a lot of experience with them all, and the nature of the sport means the testing is pretty rigorous. Well worth the time to research there.)
Edit: None of this should be taken as suggesting that any of these materials can *replace* fibreglass, just in case that's what you were wondering. The boat still needs to be basically built of ply and glass/epoxy. The exotic materials are only an overkill addition, not a substitution. Fibreglass/epoxy has many necessary properties that the exotics alone do not.
I had thought of sandwiching between two layers of ply, but you're right: unless one plans on spending most of his time in the roaring 40°s, or in pirate infested waters, the cost/benefit analysis would hardly justify the use of Kevlar. One would be better advised to read the Gougeon Brothers and cold molding methods like you are doing on Tapatya. The only issue remaining would be abrasion protection on deck I guess, and there again, more cost effective materials probably already exist, like anti-skid vinyl matting and the like. I would still put down something beefy around the windless up front and right in front of the rudder on the poop deck. For that I always thought of diamond metal plating, and I'm sure George Buhler would've approuved 😇👌 A super weekend to you my friend✌️😊
I’m sure he would have Pierre 😃👍
Very fair lines to the Hull. Looks like things are coming alone nicely Does your design call for a Tiller or Wheel foe the Rudder?
Thanks Rick. She's tiller steering, which is the way I like it 😀👍
hi the boat is coming a long very well. i have got my show now if you can have a look and let me now what you think. all the best from greg work. shop
Thanks Greg. I’ll have a look 👍