Maybe a good idea to make two braces underneath the table "viking saw styky". You know the way a buck saw is tensioned. Twoo of those setups should stabilize that table up nicely... I like this table very much. Do you have any recommendations as to how to make it more viking/iron age styly ??
I thought about this design a little bit, particularly about the wobble you experiencing... I think if you were to add some horizontal planks onto both the legs you may have a stable setup...the planks (if fastned securely (maybe with screws, which can be replaced by dowels and glue one by one) should make up for a cross brace in itself...
I could change or add a few things but the fast fix till I build a new rig is just two pieces of twine in an x from the back bellows supports to the feet. The same X rope layout that keeps an A frame tent from falling or moving side to side.
i am planing to build something like that for the shows. side blast but with two single bellows. can you put some tips on working with charcoal? is there anything i gotta keep eye on
Store bought hardwood charcoal will pop and throw a lot of light embers so just make sure you're not around any flash fire zones ;) i.imgur.com/b02CQSp.jpg
Would you use one of these on a solid table as a main forge? Im trying to set up a little shop at home and am looking to go a little on the cheaper side with it.
Most of Europe still uses a side blast forge, the tuyere is usually run through a trough of water behind the forge to keep its temp down for a longer life. All you need is a sand box and air supply, hope this helps, not sure if links work here but check this out if so www.iforgeiron.com/uploads/monthly_2015_10/Side_Blast_Fuel_View..thumb.jpg.56286cce6f8db5c9005492d8417df5ef.jpg
The Bellows has two chambers, a lower and upper. They each have one way valves so when I pump the top chamber is always at a positive pressure and cannot draw back from the tuyere. Do a search for "Great Bellows"
Couple little things come to mind. I dont need a clinker breaker or need to clear my ash dump to keep full air flow while I work. If I drop a small piece I'm working on into the heart of the fire its not lost down the rabbit hole ;) I know some people swear by one method or another but all I know is for some reason the US decided to manufacture the under fire forges and a lot of Europe still use a side blast. Dealers Choice?
Apparently American forges are bottom blast because they were much more transportable , which was necessary when the country was expanding. IT just happens that bottom blast forges have stuck around , due to tradition. Side blast seem to have every advantage.
Do you have a blueprint, of sorts, so I could attempt to replicate your forge and the bellow? I'm not very logical when it comes to copying other people - I tend to miss a lot of details ;)
Here is the sketchup file I made back in 2012 I might have some slight changes from then but you should be able to see everything I used. Just take the measurements to replicate. Good luck! drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B0IcUcIsozh0djI3Y3ktSTh1OEU?usp=sharing
BlackFlagForge Thank you ever so much for this - I will be building this over the next few weeks. Need to gather recycle woodplanks. Now just 1 more thing, you don't have a video that shows in detail the bellow you made? ;)
Hah no sorry. Its a basic "Great Bellows" you can google these up for some design ideas. I use leather for my one way flaps. For wood by the way I used simple poplar fence planks because they usually sell for around $7 for 16' and are 1"x6" Good luck!
Whenever you could put together a video of your twin bellows period Viking set up, ideally with charcoal, that would be awesome. There’s not a whole lot of video out there of people using them and forging by themselves on the same set up.
Yea just fill sand, if your pit is around 5-6 inches deep below the fire you shouldn't need any more heat protection. Mine is rather shallow with maybe 3 under the core so after a few years I added the thin metal plate to stop the scorching.
I have a few days of work coming up (kids take most of my days hah) But while I get other things done I'll try to do a few options and styles I've enjoyed. I also have an expanded arrowhead series I'm trying to work on but my poor old PC is having a hard time editing more than one stream of video at once. Updates as soon as I can though for sure. Thanks so much for following my work!
I love your wooden forge! Thanks for all the clear explanations and walking us through your setup too!
I know I'm waaaaaay late to this party, but I still wanted to say I enjoyed learning about your side blast forge and the amazing bellow set up 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks from Ky, always glad to share info with everyone that seeks it out!
Awesome! Was great to meet you at Clayshire Castle.
Now thats punk rock.Nice rig.
muy buenos tus vídeos. saludos desde argentina!!!!!
Maybe a good idea to make two braces underneath the table "viking saw styky". You know the way a buck saw is tensioned. Twoo of those setups should stabilize that table up nicely... I like this table very much.
Do you have any recommendations as to how to make it more viking/iron age styly ??
For a quick work around I use two cross ropes to keep tension just as I do on my Viking a-frame tent. A more correct forge would be in the ground.
Man I hate those clay "lance aux Meadows ground forges, terrible on the back...
Dig a hole for your legs to go in and sit on the ground hahahah
I thought about this design a little bit, particularly about the wobble you experiencing...
I think if you were to add some horizontal planks onto both the legs you may have a stable setup...the planks (if fastned securely (maybe with screws, which can be replaced by dowels and glue one by one) should make up for a cross brace in itself...
I could change or add a few things but the fast fix till I build a new rig is just two pieces of twine in an x from the back bellows supports to the feet. The same X rope layout that keeps an A frame tent from falling or moving side to side.
i am planing to build something like that for the shows. side blast but with two single bellows. can you put some tips on working with charcoal? is there anything i gotta keep eye on
Store bought hardwood charcoal will pop and throw a lot of light embers so just make sure you're not around any flash fire zones ;) i.imgur.com/b02CQSp.jpg
I've got to ask what material that tuyere is made of?
Steel pipe? Cast iron? What size and wall thickness is it?
Two pieces, forged sheet into a cone then used simple black iron gas pipe forged to a tapered end to concentrate flow.
Would you use one of these on a solid table as a main forge? Im trying to set up a little shop at home and am looking to go a little on the cheaper side with it.
Most of Europe still uses a side blast forge, the tuyere is usually run through a trough of water behind the forge to keep its temp down for a longer life. All you need is a sand box and air supply, hope this helps, not sure if links work here but check this out if so www.iforgeiron.com/uploads/monthly_2015_10/Side_Blast_Fuel_View..thumb.jpg.56286cce6f8db5c9005492d8417df5ef.jpg
Awesome little porta-forge! What type of coal are you using?
Simple stoker smithing coal. Pocahontas seam. I also use hardwood charcoal.
How does the forge inflate without sucking a bunch of fuel into the leather bag part? How did you build it?
The Bellows has two chambers, a lower and upper. They each have one way valves so when I pump the top chamber is always at a positive pressure and cannot draw back from the tuyere. Do a search for "Great Bellows"
Still cool in 2020.
What would you say is the greatest advantage by using a side blast air intake?.
Couple little things come to mind. I dont need a clinker breaker or need to clear my ash dump to keep full air flow while I work. If I drop a small piece I'm working on into the heart of the fire its not lost down the rabbit hole ;) I know some people swear by one method or another but all I know is for some reason the US decided to manufacture the under fire forges and a lot of Europe still use a side blast. Dealers Choice?
Apparently American forges are bottom blast because they were much more transportable , which was necessary when the country was expanding. IT just happens that bottom blast forges have stuck around , due to tradition. Side blast seem to have every advantage.
Thanks for the extra info Conor!
Do you have a blueprint, of sorts, so I could attempt to replicate your forge and the bellow? I'm not very logical when it comes to copying other people - I tend to miss a lot of details ;)
I Might* still have the google sketchup file for this forge. If not Ill see if I can take the numbers and post something soon.
BlackFlagForge
Much appreciated! I'm in the process of gathering materials for both the forge and the bellow :)
Here is the sketchup file I made back in 2012 I might have some slight changes from then but you should be able to see everything I used. Just take the measurements to replicate. Good luck! drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B0IcUcIsozh0djI3Y3ktSTh1OEU?usp=sharing
BlackFlagForge
Thank you ever so much for this - I will be building this over the next few weeks. Need to gather recycle woodplanks.
Now just 1 more thing, you don't have a video that shows in detail the bellow you made? ;)
Hah no sorry. Its a basic "Great Bellows" you can google these up for some design ideas. I use leather for my one way flaps. For wood by the way I used simple poplar fence planks because they usually sell for around $7 for 16'
and are 1"x6" Good luck!
Whenever you could put together a video of your twin bellows period Viking set up, ideally with charcoal, that would be awesome. There’s not a whole lot of video out there of people using them and forging by themselves on the same set up.
I have an Event next weekend in Fort Campbell Ky thedaysofknights.com/ I'll make sure to get some video
BlackFlagForge Fantastic! You rock, sir.
That is one sexy looking forge. I might just build something like this. Is it just regular sand in there?
Yea just fill sand, if your pit is around 5-6 inches deep below the fire you shouldn't need any more heat protection. Mine is rather shallow with maybe 3 under the core so after a few years I added the thin metal plate to stop the scorching.
Hey brother i love your work and techniques, could i request a tong making video from you? I know your busy but would love to see your skills on that.
I have a few days of work coming up (kids take most of my days hah) But while I get other things done I'll try to do a few options and styles I've enjoyed. I also have an expanded arrowhead series I'm trying to work on but my poor old PC is having a hard time editing more than one stream of video at once. Updates as soon as I can though for sure.
Thanks so much for following my work!