get the PID controllers from Auber, in GA. $35 bucks, and has built in relay. Not a solid state, but a mechanical. Works well. Ive been using it for 6 months now. band heaters off amazon
You have done a great job ,beacuse of you I managed to make a same devise . I need your help as for the pid ,I cant achieve the exact temparature range . Please tell me the prices in the commants you use and what they mean .My basic problem is that I easily loose the proper temparature
Good idea and project, but nobody asked about how much did it cost you to make. I am pretty good with all of these fabrications, and procedures to make it, but I think that it could cost me the same as buying new one.
Excellent tutorial, Thanks! Wondering about using the ITC-106RH and powering the band heater directly rather than the added cost of the SSR? The 250w Band heater should use 2.5A and work within the 3A of the onboard relay eliminating a part and some cost. Thoughts?
You can use inverter to power the device from 12v battery. I used a 12v design before using car glow plug and temperature switch but it took over 5 minutes to sublimate one charge. If you have only few colonies then glow plug design might work for you.
I have my teflon cap with o-ring installed, fits the 1 1/4 .coupling perfect. Also the aluminum base is now machined! Look so good and fits good! I'm getting more excited. I have another question. Is there a certain reason that your 1/4 tube has the bend and shape that you made? Will it work just as well if I use a straight 1/4 inch pipe coming straight out of the fitting, without the bend? Thanks, Phillip
Good to hear that you are making progress. The 1/4" bends serve no purpose other than to clear the heating band bolt. No 90 degree turns so you don't cause blockage. And shortest as possible to avoid blockage.
Silver soldering does work, it takes up to 900 degrees.. Regular solder doesn't work. Band heater heats to 450 degrees, past the melting point of regular solder. Silver solder the base and braze the tube to the cup.. Brazing has more flexibility, silver solder is for ridged joints.
I did a second video, you can watch for the parts I used, and the handle, the bands,muffler wrap. Im going to do another video with more details for everyone @@PrincetonProjects
Nice video! Thanks for sharing. How is this unit working for you? is it still doing well? is there any replacement parts did you have to do? Also, why did you use Aluminum for the bottom part of the cook pot? Wouldn't Copper or brass be a better metal?
It has been working great. The cook pot base leaks a little since I don't have it brazed but I like the option of being able to replace the copper "pot" in future. I used aluminum since that what I had on hand in my stock. Copper of bronze would be better. The outlet pipe needs to be cleaned by boiling off water after every few batches of OA. I would use a 1/2" copper outlet pipe if I build this ever again but that would also mean the copper pot needs to be much taller to avoid spilling boiling OA into the outlet pipe.
@@PrincetonProjects Nice!! I was thinking of using 42mmX50mm and 110V 380W Heater band. Do you think the PID unit able to handle that size? Thanks!! Keep up with the great work...
Yes. In fact, I recommend using on/off controller or even thermal switch to save on cost. Because I mostly don't see my PID controller supplying partial current.
@@mohamadrezaalamshah659 25A is a lot more than you need. For 230V and 175W, you only need less than 1A current. In fact, you may be able to use a simple relay and a on/off controller if you want to save cost.
@@PrincetonProjects thank you Princeton Projects for your replies which were very helpful. I'm almost there and down to the last part, cookpot. I have three options: 1. Two piece Brass tubing and aluminum block for the bottom, 2. One piece made of rigid aluminum rod, 3. One piece made of rigid brass rod. Which one do you recommend? Thanks.
@@mohamadrezaalamshah659 One piece brass is the best choice but serviceability would be harder. The reason I keep the pot separate because copper pot will corrode first dues to acid which can be easily replaced by loosening one screw vs. single piece would need a complete disassembly. Not a huge deal but something to think about.
I am wondering what type of o-ring you used for the cap. I have lots of buna type, but don’t want them to melt. If you could provide a link if you used high temp ones as I am having trouble finding them locally. Thanks
Hello again I was curious what kind of O-Ring you used on your caps? I'm guessing something that can withstand high heat ? Thanks again. I turned 4 caps on a crappy DYI lathe I made they came out ok considering it was done on a lathe powered by my 3/8 drill lol.
The O-ring on the cap is made from silicon. Be sure to get the correct ID depending on the slot you cut on the cap. The OD should be little bigger than the ID of the copper fitting. The O-ring will wear out from use so make sure you get pack of 50 or something. They are cheap in bulk on eBay anyway. I think I paid about $8 on eBay. Item name: FDA SILICONE O-RINGS 024 QTY 50 1-1/8" ID X 1-1/4" OD. If you have a press then you can flare the opening of the fitting using a steel ball from a trailer hitch which will reduce the wear on the o-ring.
@@christopherc7242 I bought them from eBay. Just search for "silicon O ring" They do wear out over time but I can finish about 20 hives, 3 times before I replace them.
I think you would have better heat distribution if you screwed the thermocouple in the centre, and mount the cup to handle using the off-set drilled/tapped hole...
Jigar, what are the P, I and D settings you use on your PID? What temperature do you set it to? I have a similar design, but I use a REX C100 with the SSR. Thanks.
Can You help me wit the band heater? I can find only 110V power in 380W, but I can't find the same 380Watt in Ac230Volt.... Do You think it would work 230volt too? Or what's the minimum Watt wich works for this Vaporizer? Do I see right, that the Aluminum rod on the buttom is for store the heat and need less time and power to reheat the cap? You Wrote, silver soldering won't work. You mean the hard soldering won't work? it's up to 750°C as good I know.... Or I did not understand anything? Thanks, Steven
I don't think the band heater of 110 V would work with 230 V. The wattage rating can be owner or higher but voltage must match your supply voltage. Lower wattage would mean your cycle times are going to be higher. Yes, t he aluminium block at the bottom is the heat reservoir. Silver solder = plumbing solder for copper pipe. If your solder needs high temperature torch (i.e any oxi-torch) then your solder should hold up.
Utilizo la función de sintonización automática de inkbird después de configurar la temperatura a 230 ° C. Use el autoajuste después de colocar el calentador de banda en el cilindro.
All my reply to the comments have been deleted when we migrated the channel. If you don't see answers to common questions then please ask again in the comments.
Straight is better. The reason for bending the tube for me is to be able to rest the apparatus on the bottom board when treating from the front entrance. In fact, the bent tube needs frequent cleaning to avoid blockage. Avoid bending if you can.
The outlet needs to stay clear of the boiling oxalic inside the chamber so yes, outlet pipe should start high inside. But we are not necessarily pouring out oxalic acid since the vapors are coming out of this pipe. Keep this pipe as short as possible since it can clog up if it is doesn't stay hot.
watch my other video, explains the cap depth and where the tube is drilled in the side.. In theory, you could have the tube hole just above the bottom, as vapor has to go out the tube, you must have it high enough so the acid doesnt drain out first
@@PrincetonProjects THXXXXXXXX for your help - and again i have a problem how and what i have to connect on the REX-C100 - and where i have to plug in den Band heater ..... its to fast for me in your video .... :( you send me picture ?? where i have to plug what `?
You are correct about the sublimation temperature for OA but the device design suggests the start temp to be 230 C. I am sure there is some method to this madness temperature but I am just sticking to what others have figured out.
@@jpthedelawarebeeman6239 I am guessing the high temperature allows the moisture to evaporate and thereby speeding the overall sublimation time. FYI: I was using 12V glow plug design with a temperature switch which was taking over 5 minutes to finish the sublimation.
Very good question! Hardly anyone knows that sublimation of oxalic acid occurs only above 159 ° C and a maximum of 189.6 ° C. Above this temperature, oxalic acid breaks down, i.e. decarboxylation, and what comes out of the tube is formic acid instead of oxalic acid plus carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide. Evaporation of oxalic acid at too high a temperature, outside the sublimation range, is a procedure with much lower effectiveness compared to properly carried out sublimation.
The temp are too high!!!! Hardly anyone knows that sublimation of oxalic acid occurs only above 159 ° C and a maximum of 189.6 ° C. Above this temperature, oxalic acid breaks down, i.e. decarboxylation, and what comes out of the tube is formic acid instead of oxalic acid and carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide. Evaporation of oxalic acid at too high a temperature, outside the sublimation range, is a procedure with much lower effectiveness compared to properly carried out sublimation.
I understand your comment and I think lot people know about the sublimation temperature of the OA. OA is hygroscopic and absorbs moistures so the initial high temperature is going to be used up to dehydrate OA. The idea is to drop the temperature range to sublimation temperature as fast as possible. You may be right about chance of hitting early temperature outside the sublimation range but this is a tradeoff between speed and effectiveness. In the past, I had a 12V OA vaporizer with temperature switch so the temperature never rose above the sublimation range but it was very slow i.e. about 5-7 minutes vs. less than a minute in this case.
@@PrincetonProjects thx for the fast answer I have order a copy from Hungary ;-) with your video and the one that I can open I think it's possible that I make my own one Thx for Our help I'm far away in Austria :-)
![“อ.เบียร์ คนตื่นธรรม” มาตามคำเรียกร้อง แหกศาสตร์ฮวงจุ้ย เตือนสติอย่างมงาย | แฉ 7 พ.ย. 67 [1/3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5fc4S3xBNfc/mqdefault.jpg)
Great vapor! Thank for showing
get the PID controllers from Auber, in GA. $35 bucks, and has built in relay. Not a solid state, but a mechanical. Works well. Ive been using it for 6 months now. band heaters off amazon
Themachinewon which of the Auberins PIDs are you using?
Thank You from Poland. I'm thinking about do it. Your movie is very helpful. Thakns
I have a second video that shows all the parts,, that may help more
You have done a great job ,beacuse of you I managed to make a same devise . I need your help as for the pid ,I cant achieve the exact temparature range . Please tell me the prices in the commants you use and what they mean .My basic problem is that I easily loose the proper temparature
Good idea and project, but nobody asked about how much did it cost you to make.
I am pretty good with all of these fabrications, and procedures to make it, but I think that it could cost me the same as buying new one.
Oxalic acid vaporizer was very expensive when I built it. Thankfully the price has come down now due to the competition.
@@PrincetonProjects, thanks. That's what I have figured.
Excellent tutorial, Thanks! Wondering about using the ITC-106RH and powering the band heater directly rather than the added cost of the SSR? The 250w Band heater should use 2.5A and work within the 3A of the onboard relay eliminating a part and some cost. Thoughts?
3A is too close to operating power requirements. Maybe you can add a regular relay to power the band heater.
Thanks
Great project and informative, just wondering if this tool could be wired up using 12 volt system, thanks again for this vid.
You can use inverter to power the device from 12v battery. I used a 12v design before using car glow plug and temperature switch but it took over 5 minutes to sublimate one charge. If you have only few colonies then glow plug design might work for you.
Nice info. Keep it up sir.
Hi it's good for us
I have my teflon cap with o-ring installed, fits the 1 1/4 .coupling perfect. Also the aluminum base is now machined! Look so good and fits good! I'm getting more excited. I have another question. Is there a certain reason that your 1/4 tube has the bend and shape that you made? Will it work just as well if I use a straight 1/4 inch pipe coming straight out of the fitting, without the bend? Thanks, Phillip
Good to hear that you are making progress. The 1/4" bends serve no purpose other than to clear the heating band bolt. No 90 degree turns so you don't cause blockage. And shortest as possible to avoid blockage.
Silver soldering does work, it takes up to 900 degrees.. Regular solder doesn't work. Band heater heats to 450 degrees, past the melting point of regular solder. Silver solder the base and braze the tube to the cup.. Brazing has more flexibility, silver solder is for ridged joints.
I used the plumbing silver solder and it melted at 250 C. I call plumbing solder as silver solder.
Yeah, as you know by now its not the same. Regular torch cant melt Silver solder. @@PrincetonProjects
I did a second video, you can watch for the parts I used, and the handle, the bands,muffler wrap. Im going to do another video with more details for everyone @@PrincetonProjects
Nice video! Thanks for sharing. How is this unit working for you? is it still doing well? is there any replacement parts did you have to do? Also, why did you use Aluminum for the bottom part of the cook pot? Wouldn't Copper or brass be a better metal?
It has been working great. The cook pot base leaks a little since I don't have it brazed but I like the option of being able to replace the copper "pot" in future. I used aluminum since that what I had on hand in my stock. Copper of bronze would be better. The outlet pipe needs to be cleaned by boiling off water after every few batches of OA. I would use a 1/2" copper outlet pipe if I build this ever again but that would also mean the copper pot needs to be much taller to avoid spilling boiling OA into the outlet pipe.
@@PrincetonProjects Nice!! I was thinking of using 42mmX50mm and 110V 380W Heater band. Do you think the PID unit able to handle that size? Thanks!! Keep up with the great work...
@@gayandonamarasinghe8166 Yes, PID controller would be fine.
Very good video. Thank you so much! You did a great job!! I do have one question, Is your SSR 25 or 40? Thanks you..Phillip Hall
SSR 25
Princeton Projects
Thank you very much for your help. Phillip Hall
thanks for reply i was looking for the thermal coupling but it comes with the controler.
@@paytonmaison3717 I got a email about the vaporizer was you looking for one or email adress hackney@windstream.net
Hi, thanks for the great video. Can I use an on/off thermo controller instead of PID?
Yes. In fact, I recommend using on/off controller or even thermal switch to save on cost. Because I mostly don't see my PID controller supplying partial current.
@@PrincetonProjects Hi, I'm using a 220v/145~175watt band heater, does it make a difference whether I use a 25A or 40A ssr relay? Thanks.
@@mohamadrezaalamshah659 25A is a lot more than you need. For 230V and 175W, you only need less than 1A current. In fact, you may be able to use a simple relay and a on/off controller if you want to save cost.
@@PrincetonProjects thank you Princeton Projects for your replies which were very helpful. I'm almost there and down to the last part, cookpot. I have three options: 1. Two piece Brass tubing and aluminum block for the bottom, 2. One piece made of rigid aluminum rod, 3. One piece made of rigid brass rod. Which one do you recommend? Thanks.
@@mohamadrezaalamshah659 One piece brass is the best choice but serviceability would be harder. The reason I keep the pot separate because copper pot will corrode first dues to acid which can be easily replaced by loosening one screw vs. single piece would need a complete disassembly. Not a huge deal but something to think about.
Curious what kind of solder was used to join the spout to the cookpot? Most plumbing solder melts below the temp setting of the provap?
Don't use silver solder. Use bronze welding rod with oxi-acetylene torch.
I am wondering what type of o-ring you used for the cap. I have lots of buna type, but don’t want them to melt. If you could provide a link if you used high temp ones as I am having trouble finding them locally. Thanks
Silicon o rings from eBay
Hello again I was curious what kind of O-Ring you used on your caps? I'm guessing something that can withstand high heat ? Thanks again. I turned 4 caps on a crappy DYI lathe I made they came out ok considering it was done on a lathe powered by my 3/8 drill lol.
The O-ring on the cap is made from silicon. Be sure to get the correct ID depending on the slot you cut on the cap. The OD should be little bigger than the ID of the copper fitting. The O-ring will wear out from use so make sure you get pack of 50 or something. They are cheap in bulk on eBay anyway. I think I paid about $8 on eBay. Item name: FDA SILICONE O-RINGS 024 QTY 50 1-1/8" ID X 1-1/4" OD. If you have a press then you can flare the opening of the fitting using a steel ball from a trailer hitch which will reduce the wear on the o-ring.
BTW great work making the caps on a "drill lathe"!
JP I would like to see how you did this, made the caps. Do you have a video? Thanks Phillip Hall
@@PrincetonProjects hi, sorry did not see this reply to high temp o ring . Would be able to provide a source link?
@@christopherc7242 I bought them from eBay. Just search for "silicon O ring" They do wear out over time but I can finish about 20 hives, 3 times before I replace them.
I think you would have better heat distribution if you screwed the thermocouple in the centre, and mount the cup to handle using the off-set drilled/tapped hole...
Good idea.
Pozdrav iz Srbije
Kako doci do tog GREJACA posto ga u Srbiji nema sve ostalo imam ali taj grejac ne a hteo bi da napravim bas takav
Jigar, what are the P, I and D settings you use on your PID? What temperature do you set it to? I have a similar design, but I use a REX C100 with the SSR. Thanks.
Setting would be different based on the mass of your metal. My settings are: P=100, I=135,D=17
@@PrincetonProjects thank you. I have updated my final project on bee source. Cheers!
What is your beesource name? I will look it up.
Please tell me the prices in the commants you use and what they mean .My basic problem is that I easily loose the proper temparature 230c
PID settings would be different based on the mass of your metal. My settings are: P=100, I=135,D=17. You will
i will try it and i will come in touch. thanks
Can You help me wit the band heater? I can find only 110V power in 380W, but I can't find the same 380Watt in Ac230Volt.... Do You think it would work 230volt too? Or what's the minimum Watt wich works for this Vaporizer?
Do I see right, that the Aluminum rod on the buttom is for store the heat and need less time and power to reheat the cap?
You Wrote, silver soldering won't work. You mean the hard soldering won't work? it's up to 750°C as good I know.... Or I did not understand anything?
Thanks,
Steven
I don't think the band heater of 110 V would work with 230 V. The wattage rating can be owner or higher but voltage must match your supply voltage. Lower wattage would mean your cycle times are going to be higher.
Yes, t he aluminium block at the bottom is the heat reservoir.
Silver solder = plumbing solder for copper pipe. If your solder needs high temperature torch (i.e any oxi-torch) then your solder should hold up.
hola, podrias mostrar la configuracion del inkbird? he intentado que caliente la banda calefactora sin resultado. Saludos desde Chile.
Utilizo la función de sintonización automática de inkbird después de configurar la temperatura a 230 ° C. Use el autoajuste después de colocar el calentador de banda en el cilindro.
Le haré saber mi configuración de PID en un par de días.
P=100, I=135,D=17
@@PrincetonProjects thanks
@@mariomarquezfaundez8667 ¿Estas configuraciones funcionaron para usted?
All my reply to the comments have been deleted when we migrated the channel. If you don't see answers to common questions then please ask again in the comments.
Where you find your thermal coulping on you vaporizer I can't find the small like you have on your video what size and part number if you have it
You mean copper coupling? Or band heater? Copper coupling from hardware store in plumbing section. Bamd heater from Amazon: 35mm diameter.
Hello. Is there any reason for bending the tube in the S or could it go outstraight ahead?
Straight is better. The reason for bending the tube for me is to be able to rest the apparatus on the bottom board when treating from the front entrance. In fact, the bent tube needs frequent cleaning to avoid blockage. Avoid bending if you can.
Thank you for your answer. All the Best for you
Does the outlet need to come from the top and bend down, to "pour" out?
The outlet needs to stay clear of the boiling oxalic inside the chamber so yes, outlet pipe should start high inside. But we are not necessarily pouring out oxalic acid since the vapors are coming out of this pipe. Keep this pipe as short as possible since it can clog up if it is doesn't stay hot.
watch my other video, explains the cap depth and where the tube is drilled in the side.. In theory, you could have the tube hole just above the bottom, as vapor has to go out the tube, you must have it high enough so the acid doesnt drain out first
podrias mostrar como configuras el regulador de temperatura?
Not in Spanish, but I go the Idea you want to know how to control temp ? PID controller controls the temp via a thermal coupler.
th-cam.com/video/GruBmsVSnsc/w-d-xo.html
Thank you, awesome video!
Hello, please tell me where you bought such caps for the sublimator.
I made them on the lathe.
он их сам делал на станке из тефлона
You keep saying "230*" am I correct that you have the PID set for Celsius and not Fahrenheit?
@@PrincetonProjects Thank you.
Yes, 230 C.
Yes 230 Celsius,,, if you set it at 230F, it melts the acid and will not vaporize it.
What type aluminum stock did you use
I used 6061 alloy
Does it not react from the oac
@@stephen26448 I don't know. I don't see any significant pitting at the bottom.
@@PrincetonProjects so I guess it hasn't killed your bees then I was thinking about possibly gasses from the 2 parts mixing with heat
@@stephen26448 Bees are doing great despite my help!
Great project. Thanks.
You should consider not use the video camera on your forehead; it makes me nauseated.
I know. I stopped using the head band in all my videos.
Hello Princeton Project, could you give the ebay item number of the teflon caps, if possible, please? Thank you very much!
I MADE the caps myself on a lathe. I just bought teflon round bar on eBay.
@@PrincetonProjects hello, is the teflon heat resistant ? do you sale the vaporizer?
@@salambeekeeper9464 Teflon melts at 620 F so yes it works. Unfortunately I don't sell vaporizer or cap.
Where i can buy this metal=? ore where i can order one ? Min 2:22 in your video ?
@@PrincetonProjects THXXXXXXXX for your help - and again i have a problem how and what i have to connect on the REX-C100 - and where i have to plug in den Band heater ..... its to fast for me in your video .... :( you send me picture ?? where i have to plug what `?
@@PrincetonProjects Did you weld the aluminum into the copper?
@@sergethomas8853No, just press fit.
@@sergethomas8853 No, just press fit and held in place with the band heater.
I thought the temp range was 160c to 187c?
You are correct about the sublimation temperature for OA but the device design suggests the start temp to be 230 C. I am sure there is some method to this madness temperature but I am just sticking to what others have figured out.
I am just trying to learn as much as I can, I plan on building a few different types of vaporizers to see which I like best. Thank you
@@jpthedelawarebeeman6239 I am guessing the high temperature allows the moisture to evaporate and thereby speeding the overall sublimation time. FYI: I was using 12V glow plug design with a temperature switch which was taking over 5 minutes to finish the sublimation.
Very good question!
Hardly anyone knows that sublimation of oxalic acid occurs only above 159 ° C and a maximum of 189.6 ° C. Above this temperature, oxalic acid breaks down, i.e. decarboxylation, and what comes out of the tube is formic acid instead of oxalic acid plus carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide. Evaporation of oxalic acid at too high a temperature, outside the sublimation range, is a procedure with much lower effectiveness compared to properly carried out sublimation.
I got one from eBay for 200$ also another guy from TH-cam is selling for 155$ with blue electrical box with grey cover
The temp are too high!!!!
Hardly anyone knows that sublimation of oxalic acid occurs only above 159 ° C and a maximum of 189.6 ° C. Above this temperature, oxalic acid breaks down, i.e. decarboxylation, and what comes out of the tube is formic acid instead of oxalic acid and carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide. Evaporation of oxalic acid at too high a temperature, outside the sublimation range, is a procedure with much lower effectiveness compared to properly carried out sublimation.
I understand your comment and I think lot people know about the sublimation temperature of the OA. OA is hygroscopic and absorbs moistures so the initial high temperature is going to be used up to dehydrate OA. The idea is to drop the temperature range to sublimation temperature as fast as possible. You may be right about chance of hitting early temperature outside the sublimation range but this is a tradeoff between speed and effectiveness. In the past, I had a 12V OA vaporizer with temperature switch so the temperature never rose above the sublimation range but it was very slow i.e. about 5-7 minutes vs. less than a minute in this case.
where you buy the white caps???
@@PrincetonProjects do you know where I can buy them?
So happy to found your video !!! Hope soon I can build one your video is perfect
@@PrincetonProjects thx for the fast answer I have order a copy from Hungary ;-) with your video and the one that I can open I think it's possible that I make my own one
Thx for Our help I'm far away in Austria :-)