Volvo 740 Radiator fix
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ม.ค. 2021
- Last time we saw the Volvo 740 it was exploding at me, this time we sort the radiator out.
**If you are working on a radiator or cooling system make sure its cold before touching it!**
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The volvo is so safe that you survive even if it tries to kill you :)
The steam helps kill virus', It's Volvos patented SIPS (Steam Infection Protection System)
I must apologise Matt, I have been binging on Tweed Jacket Reviews and Non Budget Reviews to catch up with them all. Every time I see this amazing Volvo you are pouring love and gifts over it. You are introducing people who have no knowledge of the Mark that Volvo engineering is not over complicated. It is simply very clever and extremely robust. Good reflexes dodging the pressure release from the broken radiator.
FD Volvo time, fantastic! Our sweedish steed was looking very authentic this morning, covered in snow. Always nice to see new 740 episodes, I'm sure it has become one of your favourites Matt.
That switch is for an electric fan for models with aircon and later 900s had no viscous fan and electric only. Great fix Matt, if only all cars had such room to work on
My 740GL has A/C and has that temperature sensor on the rad. Whereas yours doesn't.
that volvo seems like a pleasure to work on. so much space and no bullshit engineering
The 740, like the 240 before and after, are amongst the easiest cars to work on. The flame trap and oil separator that make up the PCV system are a bit tricky, but everything else is a doddle. The timing belt and all 3 front seals take about an hour to do. Very inexpensive cars to work on.
Trust me, they fight you all the way! lol
A hub but AND a furious driving video day makes Wednesday a good day!
Easier job than a rover diesel alternator lol
I am sure Mr. HubNut would agree.
Thankfully!
Germany getting its own back on British for 2 heavy defeats versus a country that stayed neutral.
oof
Well done Matt. Moby's rad is now safe. It''s always very satisfying to clean and paint an area that is basically unseen but you know it's there. Great stuff. Thank you.
It didn't want to kill you! It was asking for your attention! Volvos are a good breed. They love their humans. And protect them.
Enjoyed your Volvo video. Well done. I had replaced my E30 radiator almost 20 years ago. It was an easy job. I don't know if it is that easy to my S40.
Well done another job done in keeping the old faithful Volvo on the roads.
Great video as usual. The problems of car ownership are something universal to all your subscribers. I very much like the car tests but the odd diy vlog is definitely complementary to your channel.
I feel the screwdriver and gloves issue! I work on fire alarms for a living and some customers require me to wear gloves because of the type of premises but I have tiny baby hands so all gloves are way too big and I end up losing a finger to being twisted around my terminal screwdriver when I’m working. Absolute pain 😂
Loving the video as always.
When you are replacing the new expansion tank lid I would get the newer version (the green one), it seems a lot better at regulating the pressure in the system.
18:54 You might find that the brushes are either worn or just sticking in their holders, Matt - my Bosch orbital sander (1986 vintage) did exactly what you're describing and it was just full of the detritus of ages in and around the brushes. Easily dismantled, everywhere cleaned with IPA and re-greased as appropriate, the brush holders cleaned thoroughly so the brushes moved smoothly; job done, no more violent sparking, good as the day it left the factory in fact and now will very likely outlast me. Give it a go, you've got nothing to lose.
Yes, nice little project for a rainy afternoon (also film it please) 👍
Worth checking out, would save a few ££ too
@@furiousdriving At most you're into a few quid for brushes.
Lovely to see the old girl getting attention, Matt. When you do the hoses, don't forget the heater hoses at the rear of the engine
Been looking forward to this videos, been repeatedly watching Volvo content on your channel, what a fantastic way to start the day
Thank you for this video! It helped me a lot while replacing my 940 radiator. It had a leak at the same spot.😊
Had the rad replaced on my old 740 2.3 years back. I drove up and some burly bloke swapped it out and burped it whilst we were sat in the car. Took him about 15 mins if memory serves. You'll enjoy cleaning the flame trap out, it's a nice clean job 😄👍
Yes, cleaning that out makes less water vapour ending up in the distributor cap. Also, fresh oil can handle more water vapour.
A car engineered with ease of maintenance in mind. What a concept!
Great atmosphere on this channel as you do your best at tinkering and the banter is entertaining.
That's just made the last 30 minutes or so most enjoyable.
Keep up the good work/content.
Stay safe. Stay healthy.
Alan L200
It’s a thermo time switch on the edge of the rad turns fans on/off on certain cars, I’ve got one on the 968 rad which switches fans on high speed/slow speed.
Warm up cold metal with a hot air gun before painting in winter !Nice to see it all ready for round 2.
I also find gently heating the aerosol can helps too. Nice and evenly so it doesn’t go bang. Shake it and heat again. You get much better finishing too.
@@Landie_Man Matt put it on the radiator inside his home
@@fhwolthuis the can?
@@Landie_Man yes het tells it in de video
@@fhwolthuis ah yes. It sounded like he was talking about the brackets.
Great tinkering video to watch over lunch and nice to see the Volvo getting some love.
Nice job and repainted nuts and bolts and bodywork too! Hoorah! 😊✨👍
Lovely Jubbly, always great tinkering videos to watch.
Always nice to see a Volvo being worked on.... another great video. :)
The old smorgasbord lives again. Nice cheap fix and a cracking video for us to enjoy, cheers Mr FD. 👍
The electrical block is a thermostat for an electric fan. I changed my fan belt-driven fan for an electric one, an ex-Citroen one in its own shroud from a scrapper which amazingly bolted straight on to the Volvo rad...
Goodness Matt, I do admire your gumption in sticking with the Volvo 740! Onwards and upwards...let's hope!
That Volvo IS the best car in his fleet! He needs gumption to stick with some of those others! lol
It's not a heater on the rad, more likely a thermo switch for an electric fan. Maybe the new rad is from a car with AC? Wouldn't make much sense to heat the water in the radiator, as it's blocked by the thermostat with a cold engine and would radiate most of the heat away instantly.
In cold winter climates like Northern Europe or Alaska/Canada, keeping the coolant and engine warm is essential for ease of starting. Often accomplished by circulating the coolant through a diesel fuelled heater.
@@tonys1636 I know, I live in Finland. Not really essential for starting, but they do keep the engine from wearing down on cold starts and reduce fuel consumption. Almost every car up here has an electric block heater, either heating the oil pan or the water inside the block. The fuel operated heaters have become more common in recent years, especially in efficient modern diesels that require extra heat even when on the move.
that is exactly what it is in hotter climates or cars of certain years with ac that thermo switch turns onn a fan mounted on the front of the ac condenser
The electric fan for the A/C system on my 740GL is designed to kick in at 92 degrees Fahrenheit when the car is doing 8mph or less - such as when it's idling. Needless to say, where I live it doesn't kick in very often! lol The last time I saw it turn on was in July '16!
thanks for the video..best wishes from Edinburgh...
Hi Matt, another top video,the old radiator was bad just to go at where the pipe was,the new one looks good.
Good job it went there and not on motorway , keep the old girl going , nice de lorean kit by the way.
Well done, this car is getting better every day 👍😊
Ready for a road trip sooner than we'll be allowed!
Love watching your videos mate love the Volvo mate can't wait for the work on mercedes condensation could be coming from boot rubber seal
Brothers from across the pond !
We both tackle like issues on like tanks !
A mechanic who works at a Volvo main dealer told me they don't use deionised water. They mix 1 part coolant with 2 parts tap water for these cars (1 to 1 part in cold climates)
Thats interesting, i wonder if its a soft water area?
@@furiousdriving yeah, water is quite soft here. On the other hand, it doesn't really hurt to use de-ionised water, it's £1.50 for 2.5 litre at Tesco so you're all done for 3 quid. www.tesco.com/groceries/en-GB/products/272512807
Good job.. And a good reference video for anyone doing this on a 700/900. 👍
this time i knew what was coming so i leaned back from the screen ... lol , not getting scalded twice
oh and for the boot-lid condensation, look into spraying the underside with raptor or similar rubber based paint ( in spring obvs )
Unlike modern drills you don't throw away old drills, they are all serviceable. It probably needs new brushes. Get the spec, new brushes will cost a few pounds and your drill eill be like new.
I agree, new brushes and a light commutator clean and thet drill will be a s good as new.
New ones are servicabe just as well.
#thejoysofbmws
@@DashCamSerbia Good point. And those from Aldi and Lidl also come with a 3 year warranty.
Job well done!
Well done for emptying the nozzle - you will reap the rewards later. It used to really annoy me that people didn’t do that to the cans of spray mount at work in the days of paste up So off and I had to go back to Cow Gum as the only option left 🙈🙄
I bought a bag of extra nozzles which is also useful despite emptying them after use
There is a tap under exhaust manifold. 13mm wrench fits to it. There you can attach a short hose to lead the coolant to a bucket. Of course that leaves some coolant to the radiator.
Nice! It happens to them all eventually. Volvo unfortunately stopped producing and selling original radiators in 2016, some of these replacement ones are rubbish. A new original cap is well worth getting. Might i add a tip to make it less messy, there is a coolant drain plug on the block on the left hand side, if you drain the block with that one and let the left lower hose stay on while lifting the radiator you will get rid of all coolant. Remember to bleed the system afterwards (expansion tank cap off, full heat on start up until building pressure).
thanks, thats like the Rover 2000 drain plugs
Plastic radiator fittings don't usually have jubilee clips as they can be over-tightened and crack the plastic (ask me how I know..) so that may have contributed to the failure? They typically have those spring clamps that provide a set level of squeeze
the jubilee clips it came with were old enough to have rotted through so if they were changed it was a long time ago
If your looking for a Combi Drill with hammer function for the tough stuff... you've already got a Draper D20 battery and charger for the impact - go and get the D20 Combi Drill - its brushless and snaps right right onto the battery your using for the gun. Just get the bare tool for about £65ish.
Good job Matt. What was that power ratchet you used towards the end? Thinking of getting one...looks useful.
Ah so easy to work on this car😍 I have a suggestion for your rust removing efforts. Throw away the hamerite as metal happiely continues to rust under it. Use Brunox instead. Its a rust converter/ epoxy primer. It needs some sort of top coat, but it works brilliantly.
That way you only need to attend one spot of rust ones and never again.
Cheers. PS Take the brush on type if you end up going for it.
Idea for your shop following your work in the boot of the Volvo - Woolly hats that have a headlight. Just bought one off eBay. Excellent where you need a light and both hands and you can't be bothered to find a headlamp.
They all break there. The replacement comes from Nissens which absorbed my grandfather's company Horsens Kolerfabrick in the 80's. I worked at that factory in my teens and my 960 has had 2 rads from that factory.
I’d highly recommend Ryobi cordless drills. I’ve got the Plus1 system and they are solid, well built and not badly priced, I’ve got the drill, impact, workshop blower, sander etc.
Only bought one ryobi tool, a 4 stroke trimmer and the camshaft was made from nylon grrrr which wore out after the guarantee ran out. Replacement head required as you can't get a camshaft.
Another great Furious fix!
Could be an idea to get tenners worth of bubble vapour barrier as used by Vanlifers, (spotted it in Screwfix tho cheaper in the specialist van conversion supplies) and a couple meters of stretch carpet material to dry up and tidy the bootlid interior?
Its dirt cheap on amazon as well
"Lsat week when it was sunnier" lysdexia rules KO! lol
As lnog sa yuo hvae the rhgit lttrees it deosnt mtaetr.
Who would have thought that a radiator would be so easy to fit and a boot strut would be so awkward. At least now the radiator is back in and working and you have a boot that stays up when you open it instead of trying to eat you. Its a shame Volvo used plastic parts on the radiator but i guess they didn't expect it to last over 30 years when they made them. Great video as always
Probably not - planed life for a car is only about 11 years isn't it?
@@furiousdriving the useful life is about 12 years I would say. Extended life is about 18 years. Anything over this and you got a classic where money doesn’t really matter and you will keep it on the road anyway. That’s my opinion anyway
Been to the distillery on Skye good stuff
I wan to visit that one, Ive done most of the Islay ones
Regarding the torch, I have the same one and yeah its a great torch, the wife bought it me, from Avon of all places i believe lol , the batteries are type 18650 which are commonly used in larger vaping devices - E-Cigs, different capacities avail for them , id suggest a 3000mah or higher.
For the trunk condensation, search for "car dehumidifier bag" on amazon. Works great for keeping condensation down on the interior of my MG.
Could you fit some of that sticky backed insulation to the inner boot lid to help with condensation?
I didn't wonder about something like that
Yay the Volvo lives again. I'd forgotten just how close you came to getting a face full. I do love this car though. Can you listen to Popmaster in it yet?
Then we would be watching Mattie Krueger 😅
Excellent use of the word 'finagle', Sir
Great video. Maybe keep / store a couple of decent sized moisture absorption bags in the boot to help with the dampness.
it would need the the size of hop sacks!
20 odd years ago I used a product call NeverDrip or something similar, I is a paint to combat condensation. It might work for your trunk lid.
I'm just itching to freshen up that Volvo logo on the cam cover!
there might be 4 rads, early 740s use your coloured plastic but as overs have mentioned might not have a thermo sensor plug, the newer rad out of a non ac 940 or later 740 would fit but you might have to fit a sensor in its spot, then comes the 940 ac turbo rad, it is essentailly the same but longer length ways, then comes a longer but shorter rad being the 960 radiator. , i might be slightly wrong but this is speaking from experience
My 1996 940 SE LPT auto radiator top hose outlet was cracked and dribbled, when I bought the car 5 years ago for £250. Very Common to break. Bought a Nissens one off Ebay for £105 then and changed all hoses. Also have Nissens AC Condenser. Now on 205,000 miles. My Workhorse.
Its funny how the moment i saw you near that pressure spike, i thought to myself that that is not a very wise position to find oneself in, as that what is causing the leak might be a loose link in a pressure system which is currently under operating pressure and might burst, and as i finished the thought, well, we all saw what happened-happened... Funny that... Be careful when dealing with steam and other pressurized fluids, especially if you dont keep the system updated with attested parts... Pressure cookers are not so dangerous as they if the valve at the top is cleaned and maintained a bit will never burst due to the nature of the system, but old radiators like this and other systems that work at high constant pressure are a danger as like with the pressure cooker, you always have a valve to release the pressure should it go over the max rating of the container or the system, but if not maintained, the valve might be stuck, and some other component might have weakened enough to let go... Watch AvE cut those mcnuggets-foam sausages with a stream of pressurized grease...
I was wondering why the cap of the expansion tank didn't release the pressure?
@@fhwolthuis maybe the cap was stuck, maybe it wasnt, maybe the part that did let go, before bursting, was in such a shape where it sort of acted as a relief valve but for a lower pressure, as the pressure that it could contain was that which started exceeding its ability to hold integrity... Which is pretty much what i said up there... Parts of a constant pressure system should be updated and maintained, all of them, as the weakest link in the system is that which dictates the maximum capacity of the system, even if your for example relief valve is operating perfectly...
I dont think it was over pressure, it was working at normal level but the weak plastic was venting pressure.
I thought it was a hole in the radiator core or a split in the hose, the small hiss looked like that sort of thing
@@furiousdriving its not over pressure, but what i meant is that the plastic part being weakened by time lessened in its ability to hold pressure and so the normal operating pressure of the system became pressure over its holding ability and it let go... The engine is fine, all is fine, but as that link weakened, the whole of the chain became compromised, despite all the other links working in perfect order, if you get what i mean... Its like piercing an inflated balloon, its not that the piercing of it causes it to burst, by weakening the wall of the balloon in the act of piercing, you make a zone where the wall is not able to hold the pressure that the rest of the balloon is capable of holding, and so the wall breaks, not because of the needle, but a split second before the needle can go through, the pressure from within bursts out, as you can pierce an empty balloon without it bursting, and in fact it never will, it will just get a hole in it and never be capable of reaching the pressure of bursting...
Decent job on the repairs Matt! That thing on the radiator is a thermoswitch.
yes i wondered if it might be for an electric fan
@@furiousdriving yes it is.
Great work Matt. Unfortunately the ordering of certain car parts from abroad is affected by the new customs arrangements and i hope things get smoother soon.
I usually don’t use de-ionised water, but use the water from the Brita jug as it still removes some limescale and other impurities. Same for windscreen washer.
Great choice of whisky!
Im hoping it gets easier but looks like import duties are here to stay. Might be cheaper to get a ferry and fit the parts over there!
We have really hard water here, kettles dont last long, so I should use de ionised for everything, or get a filter on the pipes.
And thanks, I do like the strong peaty ones
@@furiousdriving great, Laphroaig is another favourite!
I always found that when you put a new radiator on and hoses the water pump fails , so watch will interest.
It was squeaking so Im ready!
@@furiousdriving Flush the system.
@@furiousdriving sounds like the thermo-mouse coupling might need some oil.
Good morning!! You carry a bit of weight in the boot, although not affecting consumption much, but it is still there.. maybe a cleanup at some point in the future?? 😁😁😁
Its alot of items, but mostly just the plastic trim from inside which weighs nothing and would be part of the car anyway! The plastic water bottle is empty from when I collected it and the cans of chassis rust proofer will be applied to the floor
You keep up this Rapid Pace of doing jobs and everything going right Matt and you’ll have to get a few more cars for more content, 😉 OR go back to Quentin and I’m sure he will throw a spanner in the works somehow and slow you down 😂👍🏻.
Dear Sir, I struggled with condensation in the trunk as of yours. Finally I have drilled small holes (3 mm) in the all three upper sections of the rear lights. Close to the low corner. Almost invisible. And all the water if so inside - goes out! Not down to the trunk but out! Best regards from icy Russian Empire, Sergey
Thanks, Im not sure I could bring myself to drill holes in the brand new lights but Im sure it would help!
@@furiousdriving I think it would help to put some insulation material in the boot, especially on the cold bare metal surfaces. Maybe some anti noise stuff that is used in old Land Rovers? You know the self adhesive stuff. Might also help a bit against noise.
I always prefer hammerite by brush painting it, I always find it falls off eventually with spraying it
Hey Matt, what is the name of the red right angle electric ratchet you have?
Matt it may be worth trying a couple of non-electric dehumidifier pads in the boot of the Volvo
I tried them in my Golf convertible and they don't really work in a car. Also the ones with the salt pebbles in them are really to be avoided, as the moisture they collect is really corrosive and you will never get it off any carpet or upholstery I have experienced... The only way to solve moisture is to find the leak and solve the cause.
@@fhwolthuis Yeah ...determine if it is a leak or really condensation ..interesting that the tail light lenses were full of water.
Screwfix have had some decent deals on Dewalt cordless drills recently.
Sounds like all the drill needs is new brushes...cheap as chips. You can't beat an electric drill if you have power near by and you're not working up a ladder or down a hole. The battery always has power and lasts indefinately.
Same thing happened to me while changing the air filter.
To keep the camera in focus in the last mounting scene, open the hood all the way to vertical, you know the levers on the hinges, the camera kept focusing on the edge of the hood in the top left corner! Volvo thought of that too! ;-)
Im changing the body. Its meant to track moving subjects and faces when in shot but drifts. The new II is meant to be better
The electric thing on the radiator is the thermostatic switch for a electric fan motor.
HM 945 owner
Would a radiator specialist have been able to supply and install end tanks? Or is the radiator being from 1988 too old?
Regulate your pressure matt and you,ll be as cool as a cucumber!!!! STAY SAFE GREAT VID ☕☕☕👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧
You need one of those flexible jubilee screwdriver. That thing on the "new" radiator looks like a thermostat for an electric radiator fan, something the Volvo lacks!
Some Volvos have them, this radiator will have been designed to fit models with air conditioning so they require a thermoswitch for the electric fan...
The listing said non A/C model but who knows
@@furiousdriving if it is like someone said here that the same size radiator was mounted in the later 940 960 and that these had the electric fan then I understand. Volvo often exchanged spare parts for never versions that still fitted older cars.
Have I missed a vid what vid did this originally happen on?
That battery in your torch which you called weird looking might just be an 18650 type cell :)
Maybe the hugely over-sized jubilee clips you used (they 'oval' around the screw part, putting extra stress around one part of the pipe you are clamping to, causing stress cracks and, ultimately, failure) are the reason why the radiator pipe broke off?
it was age, the plastic crumbled in my fingers
Electric fan switch ...now you can do an electric fan conversion?
You did really well not to swear when that popped
Oh Matt swore, you can here the 'oh fu' just before it cut, I would have said exactly the same, scary moment.
Lucky you didn't get scolded when the radiator blew, have seen some very nasty burns from that happening.
Electric connections look like a fan switch to me 👍
Nice Video, why do you need de-ionised water ,never come across that before .
To inhibit limescale
As Landie Man says, it stops scale building up, especially in hard water areas
Coincidentally, my '89 740 Turbo just developed a small water pump leak. Must not be a good month for 740s!
The Delorean looks impressive although by the time you buy all the editions, it would have been cheaper to buy the real thing.
I notice that the plastic 'splash pan' which goes between the radiator crossmember and the engine crossmember is missing, as is the case with a lot of 740s these days. You ought to replace it, at it does a good job of keeping the lower parts of the engine bay clean and offers the engine a degree of protection from road-borne nastiness. It's also claimed that it improves airflow in the engine bay. You do have to remove it to do a coolant change, though, as things can get messy if it remains in situ. Perhaps that's why it's missing?
You might be able to find a used one, but new ones aren't that expensive, even though you may have to source one from IPD or Skandix, as I'm not sure if Volvo still stocks them. I bought an aftermarket replacement for my 740 in 2004 from PFS Parts.
I didn't even know it was there to be missing!
@@furiousdriving Look underneath and you'll see the mounting bolt holes on the engine crossmember and the inner wing rails. A lot of 740s lost their original splash pans years ago due to them being damaged or being left off after repair work.
Lunchtime tinkering video :)
You need to acquire some Mackmyra Swedish whisky to complement the Volvo. Amarone cask aged.
Swedish whisky? Need to find some of that!
@@furiousdriving think of it as the Volvo 780 of whiskys. A well made Swede with an Italian flavour.
When you changed the radiator, did you also change the thermostat, especially to make sure the car does not overheat , also I thought that the Volvo being a car made in Sweden, would have an all metal radiator not have plastic components,🤔🤔🤔🤔
The main problem with using plain tap water, even for a short period, is that the boiling point is lower. Then there is the lack of corrosion inhibitor...
Plus limescale.
true but a 15 minute journey is probably OK
@@furiousdriving Fair point. You did say it would get done properly later anyway. I just thought there might be a risk of stressing other components.
I suspect the radiator you've bought is for a 940 or a facelift 740 which are slightly different in terms of fittings in the vehicle. The fact that the replacement radiator has the thremoswitch for an electric cooling fan is a bit of a giveaway as I don't think air conditioning was available even as an option on your shape of 740...
As regards the boot condensation issue, it might be worth keeping an eye open to see if you can find a facelift 740 or 940 saloon in a breakers yard somewhere as some of them did come with trim on the inside of the boot which, I'm told, can be modified to suit an earlier car and helps cure the condensation issue, which is caused by the boot lid just being single-skin metal and, therefore, prone to temperature change with the warm air provided by the heat from the very efficient heater leaking into the boot and then cooling, and the moisture condensing on the inside of the metal boot lid which warms up and cools down with the ambient temperature...
I have some ali foil insulation I was going to use under the carpet but might repurpose it here in the boot
@@furiousdriving I'm not sure all foil insulation will make much difference as it's still a metal product so will still be subject to the metal changing temperature with the ambient weather. It will probably take something thicker to act as an insulating barrier between the metal and the inside of the boot. I got round the issue in my old 244 by attaching an offcut of carpet to the inside of the boot lid, though that is obviously less ideal as it can trap the moisture between the carpet and the metal of the boot lid. Maybe something like anti-drumming sound insulation pads, like the mastic pads you find under interior carpets might work. If Volvo heaters weren't so ruthlessly efficient it wouldn't be a problem. Another option might be to put some insulation behind the rear seat to keep the heat in the cabin rather than it passing through into the boot and then condensing the moisture out of the air when the temperature drops. Insulating the inside of the boot lid, however, does make them quite a lot quieter as the sound in the boot isn't bouncing back from the metal boot lid and being effectively amplified...
@@gosportjamie I think it’s just day and night temperature as the car hadn’t been driven in days when you saw it there
@@furiousdriving Of course, yes. You could well be right then and any kind of insulation inside the boot lid may make a big difference. If nothing else, you have some directions to consider...