Just one more comment from my own experience. When I finish a piece, wash it, block it and wait for it to be slightly damp--then I place it PRETTY SIDE DOWN onto a thick stack of soft dry towels (usually around 2" to 3" thick). Then lay a very thin dry pressing cloth over it and then iron the BACK side of the piece. The steam from the damp fabric and the pressure of the iron fluffs the threads on the other (Pretty) side into those thick soft towels and makes the threads look gorgeous. Maybe everyone can try this with a small, of-no-consequence piece to see if you like it too? I have never done this with metallic threads, so I don't know if they would melt or not.
Just a tip I learned in a seminar and I hope you find it useful too--for hoops, place your fabric into them the reverse of what we were all initially taught. That is, you want the working side of your fabric to be recessed the hoop and the underside of your work to be flat across the top of the hoop. The reason for hooping in this fashion is to protect your work surface from soil--whether hand sweat/oil or dust. When the material is recessed inside the hoop, touching will be on the hoop edge rather than on the fabric itself. It's the same principal you mentioned at around the 9:30 mark about rolling fabric in such a way that the work surface is inside/recessed. Just lay your fabric onto the smaller of the 2 hoops, working side facing DOWN instead of up, then secure it with the larger top hoop. Again, I hope this is helpful (and that I've explained it correctly!).
Very informative, thank you! I recently used a plastic hoop for the first time, and I did notice that lip that you spoke of. But I didn't have any idea how to make use of it until watching this video, and now I can't wait to start a new project so I can see the difference. And now I'm off to Amazon to add a Q-snap to my wishlist. :p Thanks again for a very helpful vid!
As a newer stitcher, I liked your presentation on the different kinds of hoops. I have the q-snaps and they're working for me but I really liked the wooden one you showed. Thank you!
Thanks so much for this! Clear and straight forward. Great video. So happy to see a wood frame in action and tripple glad to know you can use it without the little side elastic tightening thingys. Was putting off using my scroll frame for that very reason
Good video. There is nowhere in the UK that I know of where you can see the different kind of frames. I will try to explain what do . I rest the top of the frame on a table with a 1 kilo weight on that top end, this holds the frame so that the bottom half sticks out over the edge of the table I am then able to sew with one hand at the back and one at the front of the fabric as I like to sew two handed and I don't have to hold the frame at all. I hope this makes sense. I would post a picture but I'm not very computer savvy. Anne
Finally! I’ve seen people using the q-snap frame but I couldn’t figure out what it was called! Do you have any suggestions for stands that could hold it?
The review I have for the Needle Needs floor stand I include using it with a Q-snap. If you don't have access to that particular stand, you could probably look for one like it in design. It doesn't have any clamps, just adjustable arms that you can make the size of your frame. th-cam.com/video/RV7gJrbuyd8/w-d-xo.html
I don't know how often you look at these comments. I am kind of new to crosstitch I don't know anybody else who does it so I don't know who to ask questions. I've done a few projects and picked it up fast I just bought one where the picture is 11.5 x 14.5 but the fabric that they gave me doesn't have much extra around the edges I don't know what size frame to get if I should get a smaller one and dent the picture or if 1.5 inches on each side is enough to roll around the scroll or snap frame. Also I looked at snap frames and it gives one size I don't know if that is the size that it is when it stretched out the most or when it's at its smallest I don't know if you know that I can't find the answer.
Hi! When the fabric I have is too small to fit into the frame I want to use, I have basted extra strips of fabric to the edges so that it can fit securely (either using a sewing machine or by hand with a long running stitch). Hopefully that helps if you aren't able to fit the project in the frame you end up using. I personally don't like using snap frames that snap over the stitching, but I don't think I've had one actually damaged from it. Small hoops though I use all the time covering the stitches, if you take it off the hoop between sessions it shouldn't get too dented or dirty that can't be easily washed and ironed when you're done. For the q-snap dimensions, unfortunately all of mine are mixed together from different sized sets so I don't actually know what the inner/outer dimensions of a new one would be; but the trick of extending your fabric should work there, too, if the one you end up getting doesn't quite have enough room to wrap comfortably. Good luck!
If they are new, they will be pretty tight. They will loosen up a little over time. I like to slide mine off the end instead of trying to pull it over the way I snapped it on.
Sure; any fabric you can roll onto there, assuming it's narrower than the bars are wide. If the stamped design is too close to the edge to mount in the bars properly, you can hand- or machine-baste some scrap fabric on the ends to give it a little extra length and give you more room to play with mounting it.
Just one more comment from my own experience. When I finish a piece, wash it, block it and wait for it to be slightly damp--then I place it PRETTY SIDE DOWN onto a thick stack of soft dry towels (usually around 2" to 3" thick). Then lay a very thin dry pressing cloth over it and then iron the BACK side of the piece. The steam from the damp fabric and the pressure of the iron fluffs the threads on the other (Pretty) side into those thick soft towels and makes the threads look gorgeous. Maybe everyone can try this with a small, of-no-consequence piece to see if you like it too? I have never done this with metallic threads, so I don't know if they would melt or not.
Just a tip I learned in a seminar and I hope you find it useful too--for hoops, place your fabric into them the reverse of what we were all initially taught. That is, you want the working side of your fabric to be recessed the hoop and the underside of your work to be flat across the top of the hoop. The reason for hooping in this fashion is to protect your work surface from soil--whether hand sweat/oil or dust. When the material is recessed inside the hoop, touching will be on the hoop edge rather than on the fabric itself. It's the same principal you mentioned at around the 9:30 mark about rolling fabric in such a way that the work surface is inside/recessed. Just lay your fabric onto the smaller of the 2 hoops, working side facing DOWN instead of up, then secure it with the larger top hoop. Again, I hope this is helpful (and that I've explained it correctly!).
Very informative, thank you! I recently used a plastic hoop for the first time, and I did notice that lip that you spoke of. But I didn't have any idea how to make use of it until watching this video, and now I can't wait to start a new project so I can see the difference. And now I'm off to Amazon to add a Q-snap to my wishlist. :p Thanks again for a very helpful vid!
Thanks for the clear explanation for each type! Definitely interested in getting a Q-snap frame now.
As a newer stitcher, I liked your presentation on the different kinds of hoops. I have the q-snaps and they're working for me but I really liked the wooden one you showed. Thank you!
Thanks so much for this! Clear and straight forward. Great video. So happy to see a wood frame in action and tripple glad to know you can use it without the little side elastic tightening thingys. Was putting off using my scroll frame for that very reason
such useful info thank you so much! There are so many frames to choose from this was amazing!
Good video. There is nowhere in the UK that I know of where you can see the different kind of frames.
I will try to explain what do .
I rest the top of the frame on a table with a 1 kilo weight on that top end, this holds the frame so that the bottom half sticks out over the edge of the table I am then able to sew with one hand at the back and one at the front of the fabric as I like to sew two handed and I don't have to hold the frame at all.
I hope this makes sense. I would post a picture but I'm not very computer savvy.
Anne
You left out the spring tension hoop. That is my preferred type especially for smaller pieces.
Where did you source the scroll frame eith rachets?
Finally! I’ve seen people using the q-snap frame but I couldn’t figure out what it was called! Do you have any suggestions for stands that could hold it?
The review I have for the Needle Needs floor stand I include using it with a Q-snap. If you don't have access to that particular stand, you could probably look for one like it in design. It doesn't have any clamps, just adjustable arms that you can make the size of your frame. th-cam.com/video/RV7gJrbuyd8/w-d-xo.html
I don't know how often you look at these comments. I am kind of new to crosstitch I don't know anybody else who does it so I don't know who to ask questions. I've done a few projects and picked it up fast I just bought one where the picture is 11.5 x 14.5 but the fabric that they gave me doesn't have much extra around the edges I don't know what size frame to get if I should get a smaller one and dent the picture or if 1.5 inches on each side is enough to roll around the scroll or snap frame. Also I looked at snap frames and it gives one size I don't know if that is the size that it is when it stretched out the most or when it's at its smallest I don't know if you know that I can't find the answer.
Hi! When the fabric I have is too small to fit into the frame I want to use, I have basted extra strips of fabric to the edges so that it can fit securely (either using a sewing machine or by hand with a long running stitch). Hopefully that helps if you aren't able to fit the project in the frame you end up using. I personally don't like using snap frames that snap over the stitching, but I don't think I've had one actually damaged from it. Small hoops though I use all the time covering the stitches, if you take it off the hoop between sessions it shouldn't get too dented or dirty that can't be easily washed and ironed when you're done. For the q-snap dimensions, unfortunately all of mine are mixed together from different sized sets so I don't actually know what the inner/outer dimensions of a new one would be; but the trick of extending your fabric should work there, too, if the one you end up getting doesn't quite have enough room to wrap comfortably. Good luck!
@@GameCrafts thank you SO much for your insight!! I appreciate it :)
Do you have a video reviewing the Needle Needs floor stand?
Yes, this one: Needle Needs Necessaire cross stitch floor stand review
th-cam.com/video/RV7gJrbuyd8/w-d-xo.html
Hi, I have Q snap and I do Love it, but how do you release the outer plastic bar, I'm having a hard time pulling them off, any suggestions ?
If they are new, they will be pretty tight. They will loosen up a little over time. I like to slide mine off the end instead of trying to pull it over the way I snapped it on.
It’s so cool! Where did you buy your Q-snap?
Either on Amazon or at a local craft store - I actually don't remember!
Is the millennium smooth? I had a cheaper wood one that scratched my arm.
Yes; it is super smooth.
can you use the millenniun frame on a "stamped" cross stitch pattern?
Sure; any fabric you can roll onto there, assuming it's narrower than the bars are wide. If the stamped design is too close to the edge to mount in the bars properly, you can hand- or machine-baste some scrap fabric on the ends to give it a little extra length and give you more room to play with mounting it.
Where did you purchase the plastic scroll frame?
I got it about 10 years ago at a chain craft store; probably JoAnn or Hobby Lobby.
@@GameCrafts thank you