I wouldn’t remove the 1st half , I’d do both halves , trim the flange and then remove from the plug. By removing the first half you risk gel coat seeping under the mould as you’ve broken the seal. Also I’d add some locating lugs for a good fit.
I think a one part mold is always the best way to go. Less work after the part is made. Now you have to put the two half together and strengthen them into one durable part. Not to mention the ridiculous seam line down the middle of your part. If your part doesn't have any tumble home on it, then a one piece mold is the way to go. Especially a part as small as this. Build a one part female mold of this and tell me if I'm wrong. How would you like to build your part evenly, lighter weight, no seamline to fair and fair and fair? No primer paint then finish paint to deal with. Just pull your part, cut off the flange sand the edge and your done. It's that simple.
It looks as though a one part mould would have done as it was a nice round shape no complications in shape. And nothing for the fibreglass to grip. But playing safe with a two part mould makes sense but I would have made that as a one piece.
That was a good tutorial.. Thanks! Am I correct in saying that your first layer of chop strand is applied with NON-wax poly? because if your letting the first coat cure, then it would have to be I guess or the following mixes would not bind. Im new to this. Thanks
What if you didn't need an exact duplicate of the part, and therefore didn't need to make a mold first? Could you just make your plug as usual and then lay down strips of fiberglass/resin right on to the mold release wax and then finish with the gelcoat as the outside layer of your actual part?
Question, final fiberglass build up layer using the same polyester resin w/o wax resulted a cured tacky surface. What is the method to obtain a HARD cured surface?
Don't guess! We are updating the product to include instructions = Big mistake by us - so sorry! Instructions are being added to the website and to new labels. It comes with MEKP Catalyst and at 77 degrees F - the gelcoat requires the addition of 2% MEKP by volume: 14-16 drops per ounce or 2 teaspoons per pint for a working time of 10-15 minutes. The amount of MEKP may be adjusted in small, incremental amounts, either upwards or downward, to account for Temp differences (more for cooler temps, less for warmer temps) - The acceptable amount of MEKP is 1-3%. Do not use more or less catalyst than this. This is true for both waxed and no wax gelcoat.
much appreciated, i will wait for this, will work on the primer first and get this ready to add the gel coat last, , love your videos , you did a nice job, thanks for the show, blessings
Is most of these chemicals really necessary. I'm just using a bumper and using it instead of foam. Won't I just need a gelcoat fiber glass and fiber glass resin. And wax obviously?
Epoxy is more money so for a mold its not really worth it,especially for a one off or low production part.Now if you're building molds that you're going to be pulling parts off of for years to come it might be a different story.
Awesome! I need all these products to make my own musical instrument case!........oh, what if you decided to make a one piece mold of your seat? Would you have had any problems gettting it out of the mold?...
You could have molded that in a one piece mold,especially after I saw the finished part with the lower sides.But you'd have to make the sides lower to make it easier to release. I'm assuming he did the 2 part to help with the herring bone pattern in the carbon fiber.But he'd really have to answer that although if I were to try the pattern he did I'd have gone 2 piece like he did.Now if I was doing a gelcoated glass part I would have made a one piece mold with sides closer to the finished height(and possibly a slight angle inwards) to facilitate removal from the molds.There is a lot to making molds and its fun but dont be afraid to fail because even the best plans sometimes dont work.Reworking molds is a unspoken part of the process. I've seen plugs CNC'd from foam over 30ft long get tossed in the dumpster just to start over from scratch and the same goes for molds that cost more than most people make in a year.So dont get discouraged it happens to the best ;)
Wow!.......😞 iam about to make a plug for an musical instrument case but I have one question. What is the actual function of the gel coat? What makes it different from using regular epoxy to start my mold???.....
I've never seen a mold made without gelcoat,its sort of a thick tinted epoxy that leaves a glass smooth painted surface,works as your first layer and it is what allows you to release the part from the mold(in conjunction with the wax and release agents).I wish I could explain it better but you cant just wax the raw resin surface and add a release and expect to get decent results.I'm sure it's been done but you'll be lucky if it works at all let alone get a good mold to pull multiple parts from. The gel serves the same purpose as the Imron paint he puts on the plug in that its the surface that the resins wont stick to.But when making a mold from a plug you need something with more substance to it than paint for your first layer because your building things in reverse. Sorry I cant explain it better but years of fumes sometimes take their toll lol........Get yourself a small can of gelcoat and make a simple practice mold from something small.You can use something around the house/shop so you dont need to make a plug.Just be sure its smooth and can take a few coats of wax before you hit it with mold release and do your layup.Follow the instructions,build up a mold from your object,starting with gelcoat,glass etc and let it setup and then pop it loose. Once you go through the steps on something small and simple its going to make total sense.
carl marcelin No problem,I just had surgery for a broken leg and have too much time right now and was trying to help.Sorry I cant really explain it better.It's just I'm usually better at doing things than I am at explaining them.......Out of curiosity where are you located?The reason I ask is I'm currently doing some composite speaker work.But after thinking about what you're trying to do I had some pretty sweet ideas.If you're looking to do something more than personal gear and looking for someone to work with,we should talk outside of here ;)
That is the FEIN MultiMaster. It comes with lots of great attachments for sanding/ cutting and working in small areas. Available at Jamestown Distributors. www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=3391
I never see anyone build a glass fiber part directly on the "plug". I know the outward facing area will be rough, but if you just want to make a glass fiber box and sand it down and paint it, then surely it could work?
excellent series - really taught me what I needed to know - thanks!
Thanks for sharing these techniques.
Really a great job
Dude went full Karate Kid. Wax on Danielson!
I wouldn’t remove the 1st half , I’d do both halves , trim the flange and then remove from the plug. By removing the first half you risk gel coat seeping under the mould as you’ve broken the seal. Also I’d add some locating lugs for a good fit.
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the tutorial! Love it, but like a good dad, I'm concerned you weren't masked up while sanding.
Very cool video series! Thanks for making it!
i am thinking about doing this but to raise a transom on my texas skiff!
I think a one part mold is always the best way to go. Less work after the part is made. Now you have to put the two half together and strengthen them into one durable part. Not to mention the ridiculous seam line down the middle of your part. If your part doesn't have any tumble home on it, then a one piece mold is the way to go. Especially a part as small as this. Build a one part female mold of this and tell me if I'm wrong. How would you like to build your part evenly, lighter weight, no seamline to fair and fair and fair? No primer paint then finish paint to deal with. Just pull your part, cut off the flange sand the edge and your done. It's that simple.
Great job!!!!
It looks as though a one part mould would have done as it was a nice round shape no complications in shape. And nothing for the fibreglass to grip. But playing safe with a two part mould makes sense but I would have made that as a one piece.
it released from the plug with just the wax? you don't to use pva?
Great vid - should be applying the polyester to the gel and then setting the GFM in it.
Is that a norton or a triton behind you ? Great video even a lemon could follow lol
add a few more layers for strength - ? how many and was it all chip glass? - nice video
That was a good tutorial.. Thanks! Am I correct in saying that your first layer of chop strand is applied with NON-wax poly? because if your letting the first coat cure, then it would have to be I guess or the following mixes would not bind. Im new to this. Thanks
How many layers of glass did it take to get your mold thickness? You said a few more, but I’d like to know how much so I don’t overdo it on my project
Is his the gel coat with or without wax? Does it matter?
What if you didn't need an exact duplicate of the part, and therefore didn't need to make a mold first? Could you just make your plug as usual and then lay down strips of fiberglass/resin right on to the mold release wax and then finish with the gelcoat as the outside layer of your actual part?
Question, final fiberglass build up layer using the same polyester resin w/o wax resulted a cured tacky surface. What is the method to obtain a HARD cured surface?
Quick question why did you do it in two halves.
Why have you not done the mould in one piece...
Reason is I'm asking I'm doing the same project.
How many times can you use that mold?
Is the hot glue easy to remove without leaving marks? And how?
Does this gel come with mixing instructions, I read it did NOT, in the reviews, how would I get a proper mix? Do I guess on the mixture?
Don't guess! We are updating the product to include instructions = Big mistake by us - so sorry! Instructions are being added to the website and to new labels.
It comes with MEKP Catalyst and at 77 degrees F - the gelcoat requires the addition of 2% MEKP by volume: 14-16 drops per ounce or 2 teaspoons per pint for a working time of 10-15 minutes. The amount of MEKP may be adjusted in small, incremental amounts, either upwards or downward, to account for Temp differences (more for cooler temps, less for warmer temps) - The acceptable amount of MEKP is 1-3%. Do not use more or less catalyst than this. This is true for both waxed and no wax gelcoat.
much appreciated, i will wait for this, will work on the primer first and get this ready to add the gel coat last, , love your videos , you did a nice job, thanks for the show, blessings
Is most of these chemicals really necessary. I'm just using a bumper and using it instead of foam. Won't I just need a gelcoat fiber glass and fiber glass resin. And wax obviously?
Could you use epoxy instead of the polyester resin?..........
Epoxy is more money so for a mold its not really worth it,especially for a one off or low production part.Now if you're building molds that you're going to be pulling parts off of for years to come it might be a different story.
What gsm fibreglass mat do you recommend using?
Awesome! I need all these products to make my own musical instrument case!........oh, what if you decided to make a one piece mold of your seat? Would you have had any problems gettting it out of the mold?...
You could have molded that in a one piece mold,especially after I saw the finished part with the lower sides.But you'd have to make the sides lower to make it easier to release. I'm assuming he did the 2 part to help with the herring bone pattern in the carbon fiber.But he'd really have to answer that although if I were to try the pattern he did I'd have gone 2 piece like he did.Now if I was doing a gelcoated glass part I would have made a one piece mold with sides closer to the finished height(and possibly a slight angle inwards) to facilitate removal from the molds.There is a lot to making molds and its fun but dont be afraid to fail because even the best plans sometimes dont work.Reworking molds is a unspoken part of the process. I've seen plugs CNC'd from foam over 30ft long get tossed in the dumpster just to start over from scratch and the same goes for molds that cost more than most people make in a year.So dont get discouraged it happens to the best ;)
Wow!.......😞 iam about to make a plug for an musical instrument case but I have one question. What is the actual function of the gel coat? What makes it different from using regular epoxy to start my mold???.....
I've never seen a mold made without gelcoat,its sort of a thick tinted epoxy that leaves a glass smooth painted surface,works as your first layer and it is what allows you to release the part from the mold(in conjunction with the wax and release agents).I wish I could explain it better but you cant just wax the raw resin surface and add a release and expect to get decent results.I'm sure it's been done but you'll be lucky if it works at all let alone get a good mold to pull multiple parts from.
The gel serves the same purpose as the Imron paint he puts on the plug in that its the surface that the resins wont stick to.But when making a mold from a plug you need something with more substance to it than paint for your first layer because your building things in reverse.
Sorry I cant explain it better but years of fumes sometimes take their toll lol........Get yourself a small can of gelcoat and make a simple practice mold from something small.You can use something around the house/shop so you dont need to make a plug.Just be sure its smooth and can take a few coats of wax before you hit it with mold release and do your layup.Follow the instructions,build up a mold from your object,starting with gelcoat,glass etc and let it setup and then pop it loose.
Once you go through the steps on something small and simple its going to make total sense.
SouthJerseySound super!!!!!......thanks alot bud, you just schooled me!
carl marcelin No problem,I just had surgery for a broken leg and have too much time right now and was trying to help.Sorry I cant really explain it better.It's just I'm usually better at doing things than I am at explaining them.......Out of curiosity where are you located?The reason I ask is I'm currently doing some composite speaker work.But after thinking about what you're trying to do I had some pretty sweet ideas.If you're looking to do something more than personal gear and looking for someone to work with,we should talk outside of here ;)
what is the base material to build the plug
Does anybody know what the power tool at 4:09 is? It looks like the cutting edge isn't moving... is it using vibration?
That is the FEIN MultiMaster. It comes with lots of great attachments for sanding/ cutting and working in small areas. Available at Jamestown Distributors.
www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=3391
Oscillating cutting tool. There are many different brands that can use an assortment of blades for differing applications.
Foam brush and chip brush = air bubbles
how to regun name very nich progact
I never see anyone build a glass fiber part directly on the "plug". I know the outward facing area will be rough, but if you just want to make a glass fiber box and sand it down and paint it, then surely it could work?
That's not the part, it's the mold.
Yes, you can do that for a 'one off' part. It saves you making the mould that you aren't going to use.
Looks very itchy with all that glass…
way too much gellcoat
Very long process 😸 uff
What The? .... why make a 2 piece mold when it's not needed? this should be a one piece mold!!!
The reason is shown in the next part. He used the split to do a decorative pattern with carbon fiber.
total rookie plug maker