I always paint the weight flat black on both sides for corrosion control. I found a new product to aid in adding LED lighting to rail cars. They're from ESU, part #50707, which are called current collectors I got from Litchfield Station. For $8.95 + $4.00 postage you get enough to do 8 axles. The trick is to cut them apart and super glue them to the underside of the trucks. Have to have at least 2 insulated wheels, opposite each other - one for picking up the power from the rail and the other to return back to the negative side. Just make sure the wheels are opposite each other. You can do the pick up and return on just one set of trucks. I don't use a pot and use a bigger capacitor, about 3300uF (micro farad) at 25 volts DC. Same full wave bridge rectifier, but I use strip LED lighting at 12 volts DC, which can be cut apart at every 3rd LED. They already have the ballast (current limiting) resistor built in. Cheers from eastern TN
Great explanation, thanks for sharing!
Your file stole your LED at 4:30 :-)
I always paint the weight flat black on both sides for corrosion control. I found a new product to aid in adding LED lighting to rail cars. They're from ESU, part #50707, which are called current collectors I got from Litchfield Station. For $8.95 + $4.00 postage you get enough to do 8 axles. The trick is to cut them apart and super glue them to the underside of the trucks. Have to have at least 2 insulated wheels, opposite each other - one for picking up the power from the rail and the other to return back to the negative side. Just make sure the wheels are opposite each other. You can do the pick up and return on just one set of trucks. I don't use a pot and use a bigger capacitor, about 3300uF (micro farad) at 25 volts DC. Same full wave bridge rectifier, but I use strip LED lighting at 12 volts DC, which can be cut apart at every 3rd LED. They already have the ballast (current limiting) resistor built in. Cheers from eastern TN
Thanks for the comment and ideas, good stuff. Thanks again
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