Pouring Concrete OVER Concrete (NEW Garage Floor Over OLD One)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- #EverythingAboutConcrete #MikeDayConcrete
In this video we're pouring a new concrete floor over and old concrete floor.
The old garage floor was very out of level but it was stable and not very cracked up. It was just poured this way a very long time ago.
Now, the owners want to finish this space with a weight room and new garage bay so they wanted the floor leveled out.
It is very possible to pour concrete over concrete. I've done this many times with excellent success.
You may need to change the height of your doors, like in this case. But having a new, level floor to work off from makes remodeling a lot easier.
This new concrete floor was between 3" and 7" thick so we didn't have to bond it to the old concrete. No need to when it's that thick. If it were under 3" thick, I would have rolled on a bonding agent before pouring the new concrete.
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As an amateur who poured his own garage, it is a pleasure watching professionals do the work.
A shop I bought many years ago had a floor that was finished with a rake, You could see the imprint of the rake and teeth marks in it. It wore on you working in there cause you were walking up and down hill all day. Eventually I poured a new floor over it, took 9" of concrete to level it. I put plastic under it because the old floor always had moisture coming up through it. I was in there 20 more years and it never did crack. Have a healthy and prosperous 2022!
In a similar situation - mind if I ask what you mean by "put plastic under it"? did you lay plastic vapor barrier on top of the old floor, and then poured the new slab on top of that? and did the new slab have control joints?
@@scottchen8312 Yes, vapor barrier between the old and new floor. And it did have a couple control joints.
@@billmiller7138 Thank you for the tips!
You make it look so easy- but then again we can’t feel the sore muscles and bad backs- sore knees. Respect!
Nice video Mike. I think all looked OK. I would personally add that foam tape onto the walls so this new concrete is somehow detached from old structure also that foam would allow a little bit of movement of this new cocnrete floor..
My thought would have been to advise the home owner to replaced the wooden post with a steel column before the concrete pour. The wooden post were already showing signs of rot at the base.
this entire job is hack shit
good point on that wood post. Personally, I would have supported the beam, cut the bottom of the post, and then slid a 4" or 6" solid cement block under it. (cut to fit) That could have been done in an hour with the right guy on the job.
You three work very well with each other. Nobody even needs to talk, and say, "Do this, or do that". Great crew!
Why not, it’s better than the dirt. I did the same because the guy poured it like a wave. Went right over. 20 years ago and it’s perfect.
We do this often also. As long as original concrete is sound and all joints are honored to prevent telegraph cracks . Great work Mike . Happy Holidays
Merry Christmas Mike day, thanks for teaching me some stuff about youtube when I 1st started. I will never forget the day u called me.... MY DAD SAID "SOME GUY NAMED MIKE DAY JUST CALLED AND HE TALKED KINDA FUNNY" .... I WAS LIKE *WHAT* OMG ...HOPE YOUR NEW YEAR IS AWESOME TOO
you three guys are like a gold medal winning synchronized under water dance team - except, your water is much grayer and harder... nice work as always!
Hey guys
Thanks for an informative video
I am an Architect (33years experience) based in Johannesburg ,South Africa and we started a construction sector of my business
Keep them coming...
Collin
this is great to know, you're clearly a master of your trade....
Hello I've done a couple of new floors over-the-top of old an inch and a half thick. Pressure wash and bond adhesive and then a 5,000 lb. Pea gravel mix. it has worked well.
Give up the act Mike. We know it's 60 degrees out and you have a smoke machine hidden behind the camera.... On the real though, I love watching your videos. I grew up helping my dad pour driveways here in Southern Ontario. Pouring with calcium is always a challenge, sometimes even more than warm sunny days when the wind is blowing. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with the rest of the world. And Merry Christmas!
I thought u were serious. *GOOD COMMENT LOL* had me cracking up
We use 6mil barrier to prevent that bottom slab from sucking the moisture from the new concrete. I’ve seen it crack it like that. Very professional as always sir.
We always put plastic down first especially if there's cracks in the floor prevents the Crack coming through new floor
Id say a bond breaker is needed because any movement in the underlaying cracks will surface up doesnt necessarily mean its bad because itll be just as strong just looks better
This is always a bad idea. Dowel in some anchors and use some wire mesh at least
This crew seem very knowledgeable.
Great work!!!!
Excellent technique, information and results. Well done.
Thank you very much!
Mike, I've watched many of your videos. I sure wish you were able to travel to Aroostook County....
The post should have been wrapped in sil-foam or felt paper. It was rotting before the pour. Maybe due to water leaking in from the driveway? But cheap insurance anyhow.
Good work boys! The struggle is real with all that steam lol
with 4+ inches, that would be a prime candidate for some heat pipes in the floor. Easy to put in and you don't even have to hook it up right away.
U. R. A. Prow. U r the best.
Honestly I would’ve thought that you would have used a bonding agent at a thicker point rather than an inch and a half it’s good to know I always use a bonding agent and cuts 🤙🤙
Also he didn't protect the lumber in the center dry rot wtf concrete contractors have one job.... Know ur trade
@@MrBiron1 most probably because they determined there’s a steel column within the center of the outer wood facade. Even so those fellows do know their trade and that’s prepping, pouring and finishing concrete. They ain’t there to do other sh!t the homeowner may or should have already had done. These guys specialize in one trade only and aren’t some general jack-o-all trades sh!t.
@@marvinjgerald6007 No, he clearly said it was a treated post...lumber.
Always good information, Mike...Cheers and Happy Holidays to all of you.
Happy holidays!
Yes it is possible and it is common practice for leveling floors. I know this because I’ve seen remodels do this to get homes ready for sale. As far as wether this is a good idea or not, not sure which is why I’m watching your video lol
The only issue with pouring over old concrete is transference cracks will appear over the crack on the old Crete also a moisture barrier and Abel flex around were the concrete touches the structure would be a good idea as well
Merry Christmas brother
Thank you for sharing
I hope this finds you well and safe
God bless you and your's
Just saying
Merry Christmas to you as well Mike!
Thanks for your narration of the video, I learned a lot. 😁
Absolutely great crew and great work
I'm always skeptical when I don't see the finished concrete floor. Lets face it ...anybody can just pour concrete. The skill shows up in the finish.
I worked concrete 20years in Australia never seen two men on a screed before
It's pretty normal over here.
Nice. Happy New Year MDC. Just subscribed, Awesome Job!
Thanks
If it moves again you guys f up! That means you don't have a good base underneath and all you did is added more weight on top so it can settle even more!!! You have 7" then go down to 4" it will settle we're it is heavier..... Concrete is only strong what's underneath 💪 Use fiber to minimize cracking in your cement between a pound and a pound and a 1/2 per yard helps stress cracking or weather cracking.... 🤔 😀 nice job fellows!!!
Awsome video brother!! I'll tag you when I resurface the back half of my body shop I'll be taking your advice and doing weldcrete with a self leveling concrete
you guys look like a great team. thanks for a video
Really enjoy your videos mike very educational some i know but I always learn something new about your videos thanks and have a happy holiday to you and your crew.
This is great news, I’ve been told it’s not possible because it wouldn’t adhere to the old. My situation however is the old 1 car garage was converted to a bedroom and they never brought the new floor up to the existing foundation level. I get water in at ground level during very heavy rain. I installed a French drain and gutters but it hasn’t solved the problem. My concern is, if I pour concrete between the studs once I take the Sheetrock off, it’s not a solid slab with studs every 12 to 28 inches. Will water still seep through the studs?
Learnt a lot from your videos! Merry Christmas to you and your crew.
Nice job Mike. Merry Christmas to you and your family and to Darren and Luke as well..
It probably was poured unlevel to have water run to the doors. this was done in garages that didn't have drainage. if you didn't put the blocks under the wall than the original builder did that because of thr water being used to wash down the floor. I like 3 feet of block for a shop for welding purposes and fire protection. I guess you could use cement backer board 3 feet up the walls for fire protection if the owner was doing auto work in that shop.
The lowest spot was in the middle about 3 feet away from the floor drain. There was 7 inches of new concrete there.
Mike I would of thought concrete glue rolled out for bonding. After watching didn't realize how thick. Nice video.
Sweet job. Merry Christmas to you and your family and crew.
Concrete so hot !! Great job always love the work sir ! Big inspiration for me !!!
Mike, great job you and your crew make it look easy, but I know is not, good video. MERRY CHRISTMAS 🎅!! Take care, thanks 😊 .
Happy Christmas!
Thank you, you too!
Nice Work Mike, Love your videos
I want to do this in my garage but I have exposed wood framing around the perimeter instead of block like in this video. How would I go about raising the floor up 4 inches without tearing down the walls first
For the amount of money going into this floor I would have sprung for the bonding agent, it may be overkill but what's a few gallons of of bonding agent for piece of mind. That post was already compromised and partially rotted it should have been replaced with a
lolly column or at least encapsulated with lead to keep the concrete from doing anymore damage to the post.
good info. thank you.
Merry Christmas to you and your family 👍😎
Mike I used to recommend to use 15 or 30 lb felt to put over the crack just to keep it from mirroring through the new concrete. What do you think?
I like to caulk all the existing cracks shut. They usually don't come through to the new when I caulk them
@@Tony-Rinaldo Crack repair first, my thoughts, cut them wide enough to repair, use a stiff mortar, come back and top off, mortar is my preference but caulk does seal
I assumed the casing for the overhead doors were cut to align with the top of the new concrete but instead a gap remained so it appears the only fix for that is all new trim. Perhaps the slope wasn't factored in. I sure hope the homeowner has enough headroom for the new door tracks. Great videos!
they mentioned that 2 of the garage doors were being eliminated, as this will be finished space for a workout room.
Awesome work as usual, happy holidays to you and your crew!
Oh man, that center beam is driving me crazy. I would have replaced that! - Not your job I know.. but mr homeowner, come on!
yep. at least wrap the beam in foam or felt. there is practical and there is CHEEP.
Nice job
I thought you were supposed to but a barrier like felt between slabs like that, as well as wire mesh.
could you have added radiant heat into the floor in this situation?
This job should’ve had expansion along the walls wire mesh in the floor in the center screed to keep things level I don’t know how you can pour a slab that big without having any low spots with out height index markets in the center
I'm looking to put a to post car lift in my garage recommendations say slab should be at least 6 in thick I'm only 4 in the slab is pretty good no cracking no sagging only about 6 years old think I can get away with just overpouring another 3 in on it also could I put wire mesh in it on an overboard slab then just use like 8 inch anchor bolts so it goes through the old slab and the new slab
Don’t you use flowscreed in America ? Would of been ideal for that sort of job
The idiots who laid my 24 X 24 concrete garage floor simply put down a 4 inch thick monolithic slab over sand with no footers or rebar. Needless to say it's heaved and cracked all over with some cracks 1" or more high and wide. The only solution would be to jackhammer out all the existing concrete and start over which will cost a fortune. The garage was built in 2001 and I purchased the property in 2015 and am just having to live with it since I cannot afford the repairs being on a fixed income. Good thing that floor wasn't heaved or cracked too badly making your job that much easier.
the cracks will telegraph.
Hi Mike, do you use Calcium as an accelerator or is it a liquid? Which do you like better? Merry Christmas. Awesome video as always
Did this to my patio. But we had rebar put down
Should have heated for few days.nice job guys.Cold is why I moved down south.did you have blead on top
Can you pour over an existing floor that is spalling?
IF this was a cold climate could you have put an inch or so of form board provided you got 4 or more inches of new concrete.... what you think?
No expansion joint along the block or dowells? Throw some #4 rebar in at 24" on center and she won't move.
Subscribed.
mike great work bro
What is the minimum thickness you can pour concrete over existing stable concrete
Do you trowel after the bull float or is the bull float the last step in finishing this floor?
Hot conctete calcium/hot water or non chloridic accelerator etc.. bonding to a cold base can lead to premature stress fractures when depth values vary in a pour..if one side is 7" thick and another is 3"..the curing process/bleed will not be equal due to the rate of exothermic reaction in desired slump of concrete..This binding process makes cracks inevitable..6mil poly would reduce the probabilities of this..not hating but others that would try this and not be aware of possible outcomes should be aware of "binding possibilities"..btw..that calcium is emitting hydrogen chloride fumes that are toxic..it can burn nose throat stomach etc..had a guy fallout 30yrs ago on an interior pour at the base..his blood pressure dropped and so did he..he lived lol.
I'd love to see a video on the entire process you do to successfully pour a slab in cold weather. I have 4 slabs I need to pour here in Bend Oregon and next week we won't get over 25 degrees and will be single digits at night. I plan to wait for better weather. Do you ever use heated blankets? How do you keep the concrete Temps up so it will harden up for burning in a power trowel finish.
They usually add calcium chloride( in cold weather) to it which naturally heats cause of chemical reaction, I dont think they ever use blankets with heat, just blankets to hold heat in
Concrete generates enough heat as it hydrates the first 3 days. Just covering it with insulated blankets is good down to 15 degrees or so. If it gets colder you can add a layer of straw or hay or fiber glass insulation. I helped work on a light rail train line in Denver. We built the foundations for parking garages, station platforms, and a tunnel. Did a 36 foot high wall 200 feet long 24" thick in one pour. Anyway, we kept moving right through winter. As long as it's above 32° F you can pour. You just don't want the concrete freezing to the chute or rebar. We would float the top of the walls then run rubber hoses up and down the walls that were connected to a machine that pumped heated fluid through the hoses. Cover them with blankets and nail down so they wouldn't blow away.
Another excellent video. Thanks. I'm near Jacksonville TX and I;m building a 30 x 30 barn/garage for my farm tractor etc. I'm wondering if if can install the slab in sections so I can do the installation myself? To much work to do it all at once. Yes cost is a problem.
Dennis, I did the same thing myself near you in Alvin. Remember, we have semi-solid gumbo muck for soil. Pouring a grid of individual slabs will allow each to float independently. That is not good if you are building a structure on top, or driving a vehicle onto it. Thickness of each slab is irrelevant. Some will say to use heavy rebar to connect the slabs. This will help to keep the adjoining slab edges at the same level, but each individual slab will still sink at different rates, but at least the joints will stay level with each other. I learned the hard way. I had to pump in foam to relevel after only four years.
If you're short on help and money just break it up into 10 ft strips. 10 ft wide will screed real easy. 3 -10 ft by 30 ft strips and you're done. Number three rebar on one foot centers both ways for that ground will hold it together. tie all the bar grid together to begin with. Notch the bottom of the form headers for the rebars to go centered in the slab depth.
Ever pour over concrete that has epoxy? Looking to try it.
MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE 🎅
Thanks Charles, Merry Christmas to you as well!
Nice job!
I write code for a living and somehow concrete and saw mills are all in my feed on youtube.
That's funny Joe! You never know what the algorithm will send your way do you.
Mike, say in high season, how far out are you guys? Your regulars -- how many weeks to get to them? I got 8 + weeks out --- too far out yo - yo schedule -- things get messy and stressful. I don't take on (firm) more than 4 -5 weeks out now. I'm in a different trade.
My garage is pitted all over the place and whenever I blow out the dust/leaves or vacuum it's constantly having loose pieces come up. I'm wondering if there's a way to patch it in order to stop pieces from coming up, have it level, and be able to apply some epoxy finish to make it look new ... is this possible, do you have any videos on it, etc.?
My contractor didn't make expansion joints and now my floor has a big crack in it in less than 10 years.
These videos are great for knowing what's possible. I wish someone this good were in our area. As it is, I can't get anyone to come out and do concrete work so I need to figure out what's suitable for DIY and whether we can manage. We have a garage slab apron that's sloped wrong so it pushes water into the garage. Inside the garage there's a floor drain but of course inside, the slope is also wrong and pushes the water to the walls! Can't do a thick repour like this, but I've seen your resurfacing videos for thinner stuff. Anyone know if there's a mass market resurfacing product that can be feathered to a thin edge, but also poured an inch or so thick, that will work in a garage with light vehicle traffic? I see TF structural but impossible to get near me.
Rapid Set concrete mix can be troweled to feather edge. Buy at HD Use time extender additives if you're new to masonry work, it dries extremely fast. You need to tool it immediately. You can use rapid set mortar mix for thicker repairs if price is a concern.
may i ask why no rebars?
Hello Mike, great video! I'm hoping to do something similar, but some areas of my existing concrete floor aren't very leveled, and there's control joints going all crazy directions (looks like previous owner modified it quite a few times).
I consulted a local flooring guy and he said if I poured over the existing floor, the unevenness and control joints are all likely to telegraph through. Do you think that's true? and if so, how would you go about getting a nice uniform polished concrete in the end?
when i do that put plastic film cover the old floor and arm the new one my way doit
Can fibermesh completely replace rebar? Just curious thanks
We use fibermesh without rebar all the time. Just make sure the sub-base is compacted properly!
For all you that think those 5 inches are a mistake...you all wrong...all garages need a drop..must are 1/4 " per foot...thats because a garage door won't stop water as a home door from coming in..with out the decline the garage will flood
would this work on a splauded concrete garage floor?
dont you need some foam or some kind of expansion
Question: is it best to put foam around wood (I.e. the wooden post) to prevent concrete from rotting the wood? Just curious because this past summer, I did a concrete pad in a chicken barn for my parents and I put foam around the wooden posts to the thickness of the concrete. Regardless, love your videos and they have taught me a lot about concrete.
I wouldn't worry about it. If anything replace with steel support but homeowner probably didn't care.
No rebar in the top layer? thx
Didn’t have to wrap cedar center post at bottom? Will it rot over time?
How to do a concrete 43 years more than three inches nobody agent put plastic down over the old slide
Would you ever consider drilling some holes and installing 1/2" rebar webbing for extra strength, or is the fiber-mesh adequate?
He said the floor wasn't really cracked. So I would point to that and say you don't need more strength
What about that big ass crack by the door. If that’s frost when it thaws the floor will sink in that spot correct? Causing the same crack to form on the new slab?
Do you get a lot of splash on the walls and everything on the walls? I'm always too scared to not plastic everything off. Seems that the splash happens not matter what
Kinda like rolling paint on a wall and saying ah the carpets good it won’t splash!! IT ALWAYS SPLASHES AND THROW PAINT OR CONCRETE. Always cover with plastic to make for sure you don’t have that headache
@@Brob6304 I agree 100%
I never see you guys use garage cutter for front of garage?
could have added some wire mats that would keep it from cracking