Really enjoyed the last video series on the RD6006. I have a RD6012 coming in the mail so I'll be eagerly following the new series as well! Thanks for putting these out!
I realize this is an older video, but I enjoy build videos. Vicarious build fun, and good information on the engineering of various products. I laughed out loud at the guy asking you for a refund. I was watching your channel and my battery went dead. Please send a new phone. Wow.
I got the whole kit a few days ago. I also wanted to improve the airflow over the stock arrangement. I ended up completely removing the switching supply from it's case and pressing out the standoffs so I could reuse them in the provided case. I also reused the plastic insulating sheet that came in the original case. So far the only issue I've experienced is the contacts inside of the A/C switch welded themselves shut, presumably due to inrush current? I was able to free them by cycling the switch several times.
There's a mounting bolt point for the incoming earth wire under the IEC socket. AFAIK the socket earth pin is wired to that first, and from there to the power supply and also the case lid. They should have ring crimps on to avoid the pulling issue you mentioned.
What I do with connectors in this situation is mark the negative connections by painting the positions with black sharpie on the plug body. A big help during the 2AM work sessions
I have seen on a French vid, how to use a sliding switch and a long knitting needle, to obtain a Power button an the front of the RDxxxx nice if the alim is in a rack. the temp probe is used to charge batteries,(I suppose this can be programmed with the software) . I also noticed that the paint on the case can be scraped to allow better continuity, then a braided mass thread can be screwed on the case as well. Also the 60V wire where isolated with a metallic shielding, to reduce HF interferences
Nice video. I also bought this kit on last week, and I'm pretty pleased so far, except for the PSU... The PSU fan stays always on, no matter what the load is. I ordered a small fan control board, but I'm not sure it will fitcorrectly. I guess you'll have the same issue, I'm very keen to see what you'll find out to resolve this issue.
Yes I was surprised as the supply was supposed to have a temperature controlled fan but it is not. It is also a very noisy fan so I intend to fit a temp controller for it.
Very good video Jerry, thanks! I've also put the temp probe onto the PSU but it's just taped onto the outside of the PSU's case, near the mosfet's heat sinks. Where exactly on the heatsink did you attach yours to? Also, my PSU is the 800watt 70volt one from Banggood. Fan is also stuck on 100% full blast, all the time, despite a sticker on the PSU chassis saying that it's a temp-controlled fan--yeah right. Supposedly the PSU manufacturer is fixing that design flaw at some point. A video on adding a fan temp controller would be awesome, should you end up doing that. Or perhaps a link to the one you'd recommend? A close friend ordered the 6012w with the brand new 65v PSU and if that one doesn't have this fan problem, maybe I'll swap mine out with his model. Anyway, looking forward to insight on the temp probe location. And the idea of leaving off the PSU cover isn't a bad one. Nice job!
Fantastic! I had hoped you had heard about these. I'd look forward to seeing what differences might be present between the two units, and possibilities to retrofit the 6006 for higher power. I'd imagine it's straightforward, but may be interesting nonetheless 😁
This unit would likely fail electrical safety standards in my country as the earth bonding is not correct. It appears that the outside metal case is only being earthed through the mechanical bond made between the painted metal case and the screws of the internal power supply. To meet standards, there needs to be a separate earth bond from the power socket earth to the case chassis. In addition, at least one of the internal power supply screws should be bonded to the case with a star washer on to unpainted metal.
Have you noticed, that the manufacturer of the psu make explicit warning against removing the shell when assembling? They say that it will lead to failure with overheating because of insufficient heat dissipation, and they also say you loose warranty if the shell is removed?
My 720w power supply has a tone of HF audible noise without any load. I've tried to put at the output the 500ohm resistor included in the kit and it does not change a thing. The fan is completely off till a certain temperature.
I just got my RD6012 and the build quality, cables etc. seems very well made. What's not clear is this temperature control board you mentioned. It's included in my kit and the user guide states the temperature sensor has to connect to this temperature control board mounted to the back panel. It appears in the video you made reference to controlling the fan with this board whereas connecting an external temp sensor to the back panel can realistically only measure ambient temperature. As far as I can tell this "board" is simply an extension and so whether the sensor is connected directly like in your video or via this board on the back panel is the same. What's the purpose of this?
Hi Jerry. Some days ago I asked in the RDtech channel if these supplies can be put in series to get higher voltage. They answered their products are not made to be in series or parallell. I wonder why this happens? I would love to see a video with your clear style on why some supplies can or not be in series, if they can be modified, etc. I've other two good supplies Gophert CPS-6005 that are stated to work in series up to four units. Thank you!
The thumbs down usually has zero negative effect! In fact, the TH-cam algorithm gives equal weight to thumbs up or down - they both indicate that people are interested in the video, and push the video up the home lists. The only exception might be a highly monetized channel with many more thumbs down. You might have seen Simon Whistler's channels. He encourages viewers to "SMASH THAT DISLIKE BUTTON" because he knows how TH-cam works!
Hello, I am waiting for the 18A model, as I wanted something that could charge lead batteries. However I have seen that it is imperative to use the on/off button when testing , as if a load is put on the + - plot yet providing voltage, there is an immense surge, for a very short time but can be 8 times or mor the Amps rate of the alim. So now I wander if I will be able to use it tyo test mostfets or triggers on some transistors, withour risk ? any idea ? thanks
You didn’t determine if the load resistor was needed (like in standby)! I guess it would be needed but I wanted to see how you checked if RFI and how much was being emitted. Or does it simply mean noisy PSU output voltage?
Hello, I just received this source, but the resistor shown in @6:50 did not come. Could you please tell me his power (w) and resistance (ohm). and where does it go? thankful
@@sdgelectronics My 720w power supply has a tone of HF audible noise without any load. I've tried to put at the output the 500ohm resistor included in the kit and it does not change a thing. The fan is completely off till a certain temperature.
Riden explicitly states you should NOT remove the cover of the psu " do not remove the shell of the PSU to use. After the shell of the switching power supply is removed, the structural change of the heat dissipation system will lead to insufficient heat dissipation,and some components will be overheated and damaged, in this case we don't offer after sell service'
I have the RD6006 on order, plus case and S-800-65 PSU. One question, are you comfortable with those front panel connectors at 12A? I see there is now an 18A version with the same connectors. I'm OK with them at 5A, but I was just wondering
the length of the mounting screws is not as important with this psu. they screw into the base of the pcb stand-offs, so it is not possible for them to touch the pcb. the worst case, if they are too long, is that the end of the screw will bottom out inside the hole before the screw head does.
Kind of odd to solder in a fixed fuse and then add a socket for another fuse. Why not just have a fuse socket with a fuse in it? or am I missing something?
This is fairly common with SM fuses in kits. It allows automatic manufacture and testing of boards without any manual parts being fitted. The cost of these parts is so low that it makes very little difference. My company has many different types of boards manufactured and the manual testing of the boards is actually much more expensive than the parts used in the boards for low cost boards so minimising manual steps is preferable. It really depends if any other manual steps are needed in the manufacture and test process. Note that I did not design this board I was only looking at it.
It was indicated in the manual that the fuse socket was supposed to be only a "test socket" to be used in case the soldered fuse blows, to check operation is restored, prior to replacing the soldered one. Rationale given is just to explain away the design, which is probably just to avoid the one extra manual assembly step, as mentioned. Unless they have some inline resistance introduced using the socket version, I'd expect no one will bother replacing the soldered one, and just continue using the socketed fuse from that point on.
Hey Jerry .. Did you use the Chinese digital supply included with the kit? Has there been any QA issues with those switchers? Iv'e had a couple of those Chinese switchers smoke on me (other applications). Just wondering if I should source a higher quality (US) switcher.. or just use what comes in the kit.
The main problem with the unit that came in the kit is that it had been properly designed but then built down to a price by omitting two of the three diodes and the peak current is then too much for the remaining one. I have fitted two and it has been fine ever since. Hard to say if more expensive supplies would be more reliable as that is not always the case. That is why I always fully test equipment I buy. I had a similar failure in a Rigol linear supply which failed within 1 month of purchase and it cost many times more than the Riden.
There is ALWAYS at least one, if it wasn't so sad it would be funny, hope this hasn't dented you're faith in human? nature, thank you for the many informative and very interesting presentations, most of us benefit greatly, unfortunately there are always some that cannot benefit from anything :-) ignoring them is of course the best way but not always that easy because I am still finding it difficult to swallow OH DEAR!
It is unlikely that both ends of the fuse holder are connected to one end of the other fuse so I stand by what I said. In the event of the fuse blowing then I would be able to recheck the socket. My point is that t appears to be connected across the existing fuse. If anyone knows different then I assume they will let me know.
the fuse design is stupid. it takes up double the pcb realestate. if you are going to fit a fuse socket to the pcb why not just use it. it just consumes extra space and causes confusion.
Really enjoyed the last video series on the RD6006. I have a RD6012 coming in the mail so I'll be eagerly following the new series as well! Thanks for putting these out!
Very interesting, informative and well presented. Thanks from a 72 year old techie.
I realize this is an older video, but I enjoy build videos. Vicarious build fun, and good information on the engineering of various products. I laughed out loud at the guy asking you for a refund. I was watching your channel and my battery went dead. Please send a new phone. Wow.
14:38 Yes, this is my favorite tuning. It work perfectly 👌👍
I got the whole kit a few days ago. I also wanted to improve the airflow over the stock arrangement. I ended up completely removing the switching supply from it's case and pressing out the standoffs so I could reuse them in the provided case. I also reused the plastic insulating sheet that came in the original case.
So far the only issue I've experienced is the contacts inside of the A/C switch welded themselves shut, presumably due to inrush current? I was able to free them by cycling the switch several times.
There's a mounting bolt point for the incoming earth wire under the IEC socket. AFAIK the socket earth pin is wired to that first, and from there to the power supply and also the case lid. They should have ring crimps on to avoid the pulling issue you mentioned.
What I do with connectors in this situation is mark the negative connections by painting the positions with black sharpie on the plug body. A big help during the 2AM work sessions
I have seen on a French vid, how to use a sliding switch and a long knitting needle, to obtain a Power button an the front of the RDxxxx nice if the alim is in a rack. the temp probe is used to charge batteries,(I suppose this can be programmed with the software) . I also noticed that the paint on the case can be scraped to allow better continuity, then a braided mass thread can be screwed on the case as well. Also the 60V wire where isolated with a metallic shielding, to reduce HF interferences
Nice video.
I also bought this kit on last week, and I'm pretty pleased so far, except for the PSU...
The PSU fan stays always on, no matter what the load is.
I ordered a small fan control board, but I'm not sure it will fitcorrectly.
I guess you'll have the same issue, I'm very keen to see what you'll find out to resolve this issue.
Yes I was surprised as the supply was supposed to have a temperature controlled fan but it is not. It is also a very noisy fan so I intend to fit a temp controller for it.
Very good video Jerry, thanks! I've also put the temp probe onto the PSU but it's just taped onto the outside of the PSU's case, near the mosfet's heat sinks. Where exactly on the heatsink did you attach yours to? Also, my PSU is the 800watt 70volt one from Banggood. Fan is also stuck on 100% full blast, all the time, despite a sticker on the PSU chassis saying that it's a temp-controlled fan--yeah right. Supposedly the PSU manufacturer is fixing that design flaw at some point. A video on adding a fan temp controller would be awesome, should you end up doing that. Or perhaps a link to the one you'd recommend? A close friend ordered the 6012w with the brand new 65v PSU and if that one doesn't have this fan problem, maybe I'll swap mine out with his model. Anyway, looking forward to insight on the temp probe location. And the idea of leaving off the PSU cover isn't a bad one. Nice job!
Fantastic! I had hoped you had heard about these.
I'd look forward to seeing what differences might be present between the two units, and possibilities to retrofit the 6006 for higher power.
I'd imagine it's straightforward, but may be interesting nonetheless 😁
A quite nice video and nicely explained. Thank you, thumbs up.
Well done on the content, easy to follow and good instructions.
As for the video on RD6006 I will wait for the others videos and potentioly modification.
From France 😉
This unit would likely fail electrical safety standards in my country as the earth bonding is not correct. It appears that the outside metal case is only being earthed through the mechanical bond made between the painted metal case and the screws of the internal power supply. To meet standards, there needs to be a separate earth bond from the power socket earth to the case chassis. In addition, at least one of the internal power supply screws should be bonded to the case with a star washer on to unpainted metal.
Have you noticed, that the manufacturer of the psu make explicit warning against removing the shell when assembling? They say that it will lead to failure with overheating because of insufficient heat dissipation, and they also say you loose warranty if the shell is removed?
My 720w power supply has a tone of HF audible noise without any load. I've tried to put at the output the 500ohm resistor included in the kit and it does not change a thing. The fan is completely off till a certain temperature.
Thoughts on nitpicking, 😄
Wouldn't it also be wise to ground the chassis?
Also, L is not fused from what i gather?
I just got my RD6012 and the build quality, cables etc. seems very well made. What's not clear is this temperature control board you mentioned. It's included in my kit and the user guide states the temperature sensor has to connect to this temperature control board mounted to the back panel. It appears in the video you made reference to controlling the fan with this board whereas connecting an external temp sensor to the back panel can realistically only measure ambient temperature. As far as I can tell this "board" is simply an extension and so whether the sensor is connected directly like in your video or via this board on the back panel is the same. What's the purpose of this?
Hi Jerry. Some days ago I asked in the RDtech channel if these supplies can be put in series to get higher voltage. They answered their products are not made to be in series or parallell. I wonder why this happens? I would love to see a video with your clear style on why some supplies can or not be in series, if they can be modified, etc. I've other two good supplies Gophert CPS-6005 that are stated to work in series up to four units. Thank you!
As predicted: one thumbs down already. What an absolute fool. Keep up the great content and ignore the clown.
Your comment reminded me to give a thumbs up 👍
The thumbs down usually has zero negative effect!
In fact, the TH-cam algorithm gives equal weight to thumbs up or down - they both indicate that people are interested in the video, and push the video up the home lists.
The only exception might be a highly monetized channel with many more thumbs down.
You might have seen Simon Whistler's channels. He encourages viewers to "SMASH THAT DISLIKE BUTTON" because he knows how TH-cam works!
@@stmounts Downvotes have never stopped TH-cam Rewind, lol
Hello, I am waiting for the 18A model, as I wanted something that could charge lead batteries. However I have seen that it is imperative to use the on/off button when testing , as if a load is put on the + - plot yet providing voltage, there is an immense surge, for a very short time but can be 8 times or mor the Amps rate of the alim. So now I wander if I will be able to use it tyo test mostfets or triggers on some transistors, withour risk ? any idea ? thanks
may be putting "KSD9700 Thermostat, 45℃" as in the "Fix the loud fan on a Chinese 12 VDC Power Supply'" video ?
do we need fan before 45 C ?
45C would be OK, The fans on my 6006 units almost never come on (42C)
Hi I really like your videos , I was just wondering if you forgot to put the battery before you installed the wifi module ?
You didn’t determine if the load resistor was needed (like in standby)! I guess it would be needed but I wanted to see how you checked if RFI and how much was being emitted.
Or does it simply mean noisy PSU output voltage?
Hello, I just received this source, but the resistor shown in @6:50 did not come. Could you please tell me his power (w) and resistance (ohm). and where does it go? thankful
It's not needed on the newer units
@@sdgelectronics thankful
@@sdgelectronics My 720w power supply has a tone of HF audible noise without any load. I've tried to put at the output the 500ohm resistor included in the kit and it does not change a thing. The fan is completely off till a certain temperature.
Riden explicitly states you should NOT remove the cover of the psu
" do not remove the shell of the PSU to use. After the shell of the switching power supply is removed, the structural change of the heat dissipation system will lead to insufficient heat dissipation,and some components will be overheated and damaged, in this case we don't offer after sell service'
I have the RD6006 on order, plus case and S-800-65 PSU. One question, are you comfortable with those front panel connectors at 12A? I see there is now an 18A version with the same connectors. I'm OK with them at 5A, but I was just wondering
I ran the supply at 12A for about 6 hours and they get warm but seemed up to the job.
At 22:39, I would have plugged in the Battery 1st.
I did not fit the battery as I do not care about retaining the RTC,
@@JerryWalker001 - OK
Remove the power supply cover. It’s change the airflow control reduce air speed through heatsink. causing bad heat dissipation
the length of the mounting screws is not as important with this psu. they screw into the base of the pcb stand-offs, so it is not possible for them to touch the pcb. the worst case, if they are too long, is that the end of the screw will bottom out inside the hole before the screw head does.
Kind of odd to solder in a fixed fuse and then add a socket for another fuse. Why not just have a fuse socket with a fuse in it? or am I missing something?
This is fairly common with SM fuses in kits. It allows automatic manufacture and testing of boards without any manual parts being fitted. The cost of these parts is so low that it makes very little difference. My company has many different types of boards manufactured and the manual testing of the boards is actually much more expensive than the parts used in the boards for low cost boards so minimising manual steps is preferable. It really depends if any other manual steps are needed in the manufacture and test process. Note that I did not design this board I was only looking at it.
They solder a fuse in parallel so that they don’t have to pay a human to install a fuse in the holder.
It was indicated in the manual that the fuse socket was supposed to be only a "test socket" to be used in case the soldered fuse blows, to check operation is restored, prior to replacing the soldered one.
Rationale given is just to explain away the design, which is probably just to avoid the one extra manual assembly step, as mentioned.
Unless they have some inline resistance introduced using the socket version, I'd expect no one will bother replacing the soldered one, and just continue using the socketed fuse from that point on.
The total power is 720Watts. Does your load go that high, or will you need to use 2 loads in parallel?
Thanks so much
Hey Jerry ..
Did you use the Chinese digital supply included with the kit? Has there been any QA issues with those switchers? Iv'e had a couple of those Chinese switchers smoke on me (other applications). Just wondering if I should source a higher quality (US) switcher.. or just use what comes in the kit.
The main problem with the unit that came in the kit is that it had been properly designed but then built down to a price by omitting two of the three diodes and the peak current is then too much for the remaining one. I have fitted two and it has been fine ever since. Hard to say if more expensive supplies would be more reliable as that is not always the case. That is why I always fully test equipment I buy. I had a similar failure in a Rigol linear supply which failed within 1 month of purchase and it cost many times more than the Riden.
@@JerryWalker001 Thanks for the detailed info. What did you end up switching to? A 1 kW digital supply? (or did you repair the diodes?)
There is ALWAYS at least one, if it wasn't so sad it would be funny, hope this hasn't dented you're faith in human? nature, thank you for the many informative and very interesting presentations, most of us benefit greatly, unfortunately there are always some that cannot benefit from anything :-) ignoring them is of course the best way but not always that easy because I am still finding it difficult to swallow OH DEAR!
what battery does it take for date/time retention?
Rather oddball 2012 lithium coin cell; though it would have been far better if they used a more common 2032
It seems like Banggood is the one who has these parts.
Yes, They sell them as a kit or as separate parts. It is worth comparing the prices as I found that the individual parts total was less than the kit.
Me again, sorry , I did read that an "autotransformer" is not isolating the alimentation, I guess this does not apply to yours is not it ?
21:30 I guess you are right about the fuse socket, but your measurement doesn't prove that... how much resistance is the fuse?
It is unlikely that both ends of the fuse holder are connected to one end of the other fuse so I stand by what I said. In the event of the fuse blowing then I would be able to recheck the socket. My point is that t appears to be connected across the existing fuse. If anyone knows different then I assume they will let me know.
the fuse design is stupid. it takes up double the pcb realestate. if you are going to fit a fuse socket to the pcb why not just use it. it just consumes extra space and causes confusion.