I'm 60 - a do it yourself "er " and a woman;) your instructions are perfect... I just put new wood floors in my home and mitered all my 6" baseboards! I love my new saw! Thank you for your instructions 🥰
Thank you. Awesome video. Why don't people that make tutorial videos get it. We are beginners make it simple. This video is clear, simple, and really helps!!!!
Keep your hands away from the blade. Rule 1. Rule 2, guide, never fight a tool. Don't push it, don't rush. Figure at least a few seconds. Better more time than less. Rule 3, all wood is different. It never forgets it used to be a tree. New wood is full of water. It's heavy. It will take longer to cut. Very old wood is dry and much lighter. It has to be moisturized or it will eventually split in half. With old wood, use your buddies, the metal detector and chalk. Keep it away from obvious false positives: watches, rings, grommits on clothing, metal plates in your body or the table. Double check it. Old wood can split and you might not be clear of the pieces. Thus, I'd wear shoes you could move in with closed toe. Safety glasses at all times. Look where your clothes are. Tuck hair and shirt ends away. These are obvious, but the worst accidents happen when people IGNORE the basic safety things. Your caught hand might well be follwed by the other one as a reflex, so be aware of that. I know a guy who lost both working on an elevator that way. NEVER EVER over ride a safety switch. Don't EVER think it can't happen to you because you're special. See woman in China gets eaten by an escalator (long video with audio, no, it's not gory or scary at all). THAT'S why you don't bypass safety switches. The plates where the gears are SHOULD HAVE shut the whole thing off when it slipped open a bit after the second girl walked over them. It didn't because it was bypassed! Jmo.
How could anyone NOT like this? The title is like "basic tips" or something similar to that....and that's exactly what was shown in the video! Thank you for the info!
I really like how the miter saw has a lot of versatility with its ability to make cross cuts, any angle mitre cuts, bevel cuts, and compound cuts which is a combo of the bevel and miter cut. Its accuracy is also very good and with the miter saw you can make any assortment of projects and crafts.
Dont forget to always clamp/secure the wood you are cutting!! Also make sure there are no large wood scraps behind the blade that it can hit.. i had an almost bad experience with that when the blade hit it and it flew into the air very fast
Thank you for explaining all the cuts in such clear details! But may I ask why you wear additional eye protection over your glasses while omitting hearing protection? :-)
This test is only if you want to saw with precision with a miter saw.(test is not intended for rough and hard work). Tips and Test: Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)! Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a vertical line above the saw blade. Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade, it is much better this way the blade will not tilt. Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing . And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft. It is very important that everything is aligned. Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade. Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / / HITACHI C12RSH2 / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact . (This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails). If you want you can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood. To this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw. Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut.If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-4. therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned vertical in line above the saw blade. Step-5. When you measure the vertical 90 degrees angle square (Digital Level Box) of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing. Conclusion:how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing don't go for that (the choices are yours). Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner...
@alohachristine its not, it doesnt matter wether you do or dont, only when you are cutting more than one at a time then you should, but it doesnt matter if its one piece which most of the time it is
Very important it doesn't matter which machine. always buy a Slide Compound Mitre Saw with the handle in a line above the saw blade,everything has to be in line Slide bar rails,handle,and saw blade. it's better no tilt saw blade, and engine with softstart . Handle vertical or horizontal above saw blade is okay if it is in line above the saw blade and in line with slide bar.Everything has to be in line this is important .
Thank you for showing how to use the miter saw on 4 different cuts, step by step. It makes much easier for someone novice like myself. I just mounted my compound miter saw on its stand but CAN NOT lift up the SAW actually start cutting. Is there a knob locked? this miter saw came in a box saw down between the groove but it won't lift up... I looked at manual and there is no instruction how to lift up the saw to begin any project. If you can help me with I would greatly appreciated.
Same. Took it out of the box 3 months ago and no way to figure out how to lift the head. Got a Kobalt 7 1/4 sliding compound saw from Lowes. Just took it out again today to see if maybe this time I can find a video on how to do it, but nothing. Guess I'm taking it back for a refund. :(
On my mitre saw, there is a pin at the back, near the 'elbow' of the lifting arm. When it is IN, it locks the saw blade down. This is great for carrying it around safely. Pull out the pin and the arm should release. I just noticed your question was a long time ago so you likely know how to unlock yours now.
Walter Herro compound cuts combine bevel and miter. One of the most common uses is installing molding; you'll find some example projects here: low.es/2rcx3na. Thanks for watching.
To bring two pieces of crown molding together do I *always* need to set the miter angle to 31.6 and the bevel angle to 33.9 degrees? Or does that depend on the shape of the molding?
Ok I was just given a Miter saw by a friend and it is locked into a sliding motion. How do I unlock it to lift it up and down? I can figure it out. I don’t have a knob in the back like you showed.
So if I am replacing the trim in a room, am I using the miter cut- since it is a trim? or am I using the bevel cut, since the trim of a room is also technically molding? Or is it both? Is the miter cut to join pieces of trim together along a long wall and then the bevel cut when I join to pieces at a corner of the room? Or is that totally wrong? Am I using the bevel cut for all cuts of the trim, but then using a compound cut when I get to a corner>
ChrissyH here are a couple of references that will help with your questions. First, a video on types of cuts so you're clear on miter, bevel, etc.: bit.ly/2qcOmXk. Next here's a detailed article on installing decorative molding: low.es/2rcx3na. Thanks for watching!
Is there anything like 'depth-adjustment' for miter saws [e.g. so that I can make dados], or are these machines designed just to cut trough? Thanks in advance.
Hi. My chop saw is stuck at the 45 degree angle. I propbably moved it over too far and it went beyond 45 and got stuck. I’ve tried unscrewing the bottom nut holing it all together but nothing seems to work. Any ideas?
Shlomo Voola waste side is the side of wood you won't use in your project. Cutting on waste side ensures your board is right length; if you cut "inside" your mark it will be too short. Thanks for watching our video.
Shlomo Voola your question was answered clearly but I'd like to point out, in case you weren't aware of the kerf that is lost when making cuts. Kerf is the material that the blade "eats away" when cutting so you need to consider this when setting your blade to make a perfectly measured cut.
+Jim Mieske Flipping the work piece around & upside-down should allow for any/all cuts on a compound saw. It can get a little confusing, though, so take your time & measure twice!
esoid waste side = the side of the cut you won't use in your project. Or just after the mark on the waste part of board. Thanks for watching our video!
Thank you for asking that question, I am reading all the comments to find q&a knowing I can't be the only one who would be trying to figure that out. Wasn't sure what he was saying, audio on video 10 yrs ago is not the best, never did I think he said "waste" I was hearing ways side, I'm like wth, right or left now there is a ways side, lol! Pronounced here without a strong "T"
John lim it's generally not recommended as saws intended from metal cutting actually operate quite a bit slower than woodworking saws. The difference in speed makes them more effective and less risky for metal cutting.
A compound miter saw can simultaneously make angled cuts AND beveled cuts, while a regular miter saw makes angled cuts only. Here's a little more detail: low.es/2kCV4mT Thanks for watching, Tim!
funny thing... on the miter cut he said the left side was the waste side (he cut on the left side of the pencil line), then he picked up the waste piece and said "there's your cut"! same thing on the bevel cut.
Hi anyone why would my compound mitre saw not cut right through any wood do i need a new blade or any sugestions i,m new to this so any help would be appreciated, Thanks Dianne
It could be your saw is too small for the cut your trying to make. Typically anything below a 10" saw blade will not make compound cuts for anything bigger than a 1x4. I have a 8-1/4 and I can only cut a 2x4 at 90°
There is a stop screw somewhere. Usually on the left side right behind the blade. It is used for cutting part way through a board for creating slotted joints. You either have to back the screw all the way out or the stop it hits sometimes can be rotated till there is a hole for the screw to go into. I know it has been a year so hopefully you already figured this out but maybe this can help someone else.
He said to cut on the waste side of the line. That means to line up the saw blade so it goes exactly beside the cut line, and on the side of wood which is being 'wasted', i.e. not the piece you will be using. You don't cut right on the line because the saw blade has width to it and will eat into both the waste side and the good side. I hope that helps.
I'm 60 - a do it yourself "er " and a woman;) your instructions are perfect... I just put new wood floors in my home and mitered all my 6" baseboards! I love my new saw! Thank you for your instructions 🥰
Wow, this is the first time that I got the lesson of the miter saw basics so simple and clear, thank you!
Thank you. Awesome video. Why don't people that make tutorial videos get it. We are beginners make it simple. This video is clear, simple, and really helps!!!!
Exactly! So many tutorials are by guys who have done it a thousand times and think you have too.
Keep your hands away from the blade. Rule 1. Rule 2, guide, never fight a tool. Don't push it, don't rush. Figure at least a few seconds. Better more time than less. Rule 3, all wood is different. It never forgets it used to be a tree. New wood is full of water. It's heavy. It will take longer to cut. Very old wood is dry and much lighter. It has to be moisturized or it will eventually split in half. With old wood, use your buddies, the metal detector and chalk. Keep it away from obvious false positives: watches, rings, grommits on clothing, metal plates in your body or the table. Double check it. Old wood can split and you might not be clear of the pieces. Thus, I'd wear shoes you could move in with closed toe. Safety glasses at all times. Look where your clothes are. Tuck hair and shirt ends away.
These are obvious, but the worst accidents happen when people IGNORE the basic safety things. Your caught hand might well be follwed by the other one as a reflex, so be aware of that. I know a guy who lost both working on an elevator that way.
NEVER EVER over ride a safety switch. Don't EVER think it can't happen to you because you're special. See woman in China gets eaten by an escalator (long video with audio, no, it's not gory or scary at all). THAT'S why you don't bypass safety switches. The plates where the gears are SHOULD HAVE shut the whole thing off when it slipped open a bit after the second girl walked over them. It didn't because it was bypassed! Jmo.
This was AWESOME! My husband got me a compound miter saw last year so I could make frames. I think I'll be able to make all kinds of things!!
How could anyone NOT like this? The title is like "basic tips" or something similar to that....and that's exactly what was shown in the video! Thank you for the info!
Perfect video for explaining where to position the blade, with regards to the waste piece. Thank you for this!
I thought he said waist side? Like put the blade towards your waist. ?
No. He means the piece that is waste/garbage.
Thank you! I only had confidence in doing cross cuts but now I feel more confident doing all 4 types of cuts.
Great tutorial! 😊 thanks.
I really like how the miter saw has a lot of versatility with its ability to make cross cuts, any angle mitre cuts, bevel cuts, and compound cuts which is a combo of the bevel and miter cut. Its accuracy is also very good and with the miter saw you can make any assortment of projects and crafts.
Does Miter saw split plank into thinner size?
Nice video. No unnecessary annoying (c)rap type shit music at the start , no nonsense and no bullshit. To the point, thanks!
I could listen to this dude all day!
best video about miters and bevels cut. thanks
What a video! Quick, simple and direct.
Great for beginners...
Dont forget to always clamp/secure the wood you are cutting!! Also make sure there are no large wood scraps behind the blade that it can hit.. i had an almost bad experience with that when the blade hit it and it flew into the air very fast
You know shit is about to get serious when dude reaches for them safety glasses.
I have watched many videos. This video is great and concise. Thanks!
Straight to the point
Simple and clear. Thanks!
This was a good video! Very helpful information. 👍
At 2:41 in the video he says cut on the waste side of the line but he shows the shorter piece of wood instead!
Excellent tips
Good, basic tutorial. Thank you.
Fantastic demo, Thanks!
Very nice. Great instruction.
Excellent tutorial.
It would have been nice to see the two pieces matched together for the particular fit
This was exactly what I needed to know. Thanks!
2:50 You could set the miter angle to 45 and the bevel angle to zero and still cut a bevel cut. Just turn the board on it's edge, No?
nice video and presentation. I was hoping you would actually demonstrate how the 2 pieces of crown molding for example, seamlessly join.
Hi, Ramesh. Here's a step by step article on installing decorative molding: low.es/2rcx3na.
Great lesson Thanks
Great tutoritial very informative
Thank you for explaining all the cuts in such clear details! But may I ask why you wear additional eye protection over your glasses while omitting hearing protection? :-)
Because he might have it and you can't see them. Professional plugs are tiny. You'd never see them at a glance.
So his glasses don't get scratched up.
Why is it important to let the blade to a complete stop before you pull it back up? Thank you for the video. Great job.
so you dont get kickback of the wood
Very helpful, nice video.
This test is only if you want to saw with precision with a miter saw.(test is not intended for rough and hard work).
Tips and Test:
Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)!
Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a vertical line above the saw blade.
Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade, it is much better this way the blade will not tilt.
Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing .
And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft.
It is very important that everything is aligned.
Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade.
Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / / HITACHI C12RSH2 / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact .
(This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails).
If you want you can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood. To this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw.
Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine.
Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut.If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
Step-4. therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned vertical in line above the saw blade.
Step-5. When you measure the vertical 90 degrees angle square (Digital Level Box) of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing.
Conclusion:how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing don't go for that (the choices are yours).
Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner...
Great tutorial. Thanks for posting!
I love Lowe's.. my favorite store!
I wonder why you did not demonstrate to use holddown fasterners. If the piece is ripped, your fingers or palm may be parted.
@alohachristine its not, it doesnt matter wether you do or dont, only when you are cutting more than one at a time then you should, but it doesnt matter if its one piece which most of the time it is
Very important it doesn't matter which machine. always buy a Slide Compound Mitre Saw with the handle in a line above the saw blade,everything has to be in line Slide bar rails,handle,and saw blade. it's better no tilt saw blade, and engine with softstart .
Handle vertical or horizontal above saw blade is okay if it is in line above the saw blade and in line with slide bar.Everything has to be in line this is important .
clear as mud thx
Hey awesome little instructional video thanks!!!!
Thank you for showing how to use the miter saw on 4 different cuts, step by step. It makes much easier for someone novice like myself. I just mounted my compound miter saw on its stand but CAN NOT lift up the SAW actually start cutting. Is there a knob locked? this miter saw came in a box saw down between the groove but it won't lift up... I looked at manual and there is no instruction how to lift up the saw to begin any project. If you can help me with I would greatly appreciated.
Nancy Kim please provide details on saw - brand, model - and we'll try to track it down.
Same. Took it out of the box 3 months ago and no way to figure out how to lift the head. Got a Kobalt 7 1/4 sliding compound saw from Lowes. Just took it out again today to see if maybe this time I can find a video on how to do it, but nothing. Guess I'm taking it back for a refund. :(
On my mitre saw, there is a pin at the back, near the 'elbow' of the lifting arm. When it is IN, it locks the saw blade down. This is great for carrying it around safely. Pull out the pin and the arm should release. I just noticed your question was a long time ago so you likely know how to unlock yours now.
Thank you for your instructions , could you please explain what is use of compound cuts please ?
Used for what kind of projects ?
Walter Herro compound cuts combine bevel and miter. One of the most common uses is installing molding; you'll find some example projects here: low.es/2rcx3na. Thanks for watching.
Very explanatory. Thank u
Perfect thanks! That stand is really serious. What brand is it?
To bring two pieces of crown molding together do I *always* need to set the miter angle to 31.6 and the bevel angle to 33.9 degrees? Or does that depend on the shape of the molding?
The answer is no. It depends on the spring angle. See en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crown_molding
Herman Van de Velde Thank you for answering your own question, it was my exact question I just deleted after seeing yours here. Take care!
Herman Van de Velde aldi
Ok I was just given a Miter saw by a friend and it is locked into a sliding motion. How do I unlock it to lift it up and down? I can figure it out. I don’t have a knob in the back like you showed.
Nice demo, thank you!
can you cut aluminum with this ?
Excellent
Can't you make a bevel cut on a piece of trim also by putting the trim standing up and taking a miter cut to it? That's what I did and it works great!
So if I am replacing the trim in a room, am I using the miter cut- since it is a trim? or am I using the bevel cut, since the trim of a room is also technically molding? Or is it both? Is the miter cut to join pieces of trim together along a long wall and then the bevel cut when I join to pieces at a corner of the room? Or is that totally wrong? Am I using the bevel cut for all cuts of the trim, but then using a compound cut when I get to a corner>
ChrissyH here are a couple of references that will help with your questions. First, a video on types of cuts so you're clear on miter, bevel, etc.: bit.ly/2qcOmXk. Next here's a detailed article on installing decorative molding: low.es/2rcx3na. Thanks for watching!
How did you arrive at the two different degrees, i.e., for bevel cut and miter cut?
I was wondering the same thing lol
Can you cut 2x6x10 or it is too big?
Is there anything like 'depth-adjustment' for miter saws [e.g. so that I can make dados], or are these machines designed just to cut trough? Thanks in advance.
+FreeSoftware check out our buying guide for all the details on miter saws: low.es/1rqP1Sj
Yep some of them have a setting for depth...
excellent tips
thanks easy to understand
Hi. My chop saw is stuck at the 45 degree angle. I propbably moved it over too far and it went beyond 45 and got stuck. I’ve tried unscrewing the bottom nut holing it all together but nothing seems to work. Any ideas?
whats a "waist side of the line " mean??
Shlomo Voola waste side is the side of wood you won't use in your project. Cutting on waste side ensures your board is right length; if you cut "inside" your mark it will be too short. Thanks for watching our video.
Lowe's Home Improvement
Thank you! I was wondering this myself.
Shlomo Voola your question was answered clearly but I'd like to point out, in case you weren't aware of the kerf that is lost when making cuts. Kerf is the material that the blade "eats away" when cutting so you need to consider this when setting your blade to make a perfectly measured cut.
+Lowe's Home Improvement ...confused...at 2:30 for the miter cut, the blade appeared to be on the "good" side of the line, not the waste side??
yeah i thought that as well
Thanks for the tutorial...
thank you , very helpful :)
the saw has the compound angle guide on the right side, I can get the left side cut; how do I get the right side?
+Jim Mieske Flipping the work piece around & upside-down should allow for any/all cuts on a compound saw. It can get a little confusing, though, so take your time & measure twice!
+Lowe's Home Improvement Thank you for your prompt reply, it is greatly appreciated.
Seasons Greetings
waist side of the mark what is that just before or after the mark?
esoid waste side = the side of the cut you won't use in your project. Or just after the mark on the waste part of board. Thanks for watching our video!
Thank you for asking that question, I am reading all the comments to find q&a knowing I can't be the only one who would be trying to figure that out. Wasn't sure what he was saying, audio on video 10 yrs ago is not the best, never did I think he said "waste" I was hearing ways side, I'm like wth, right or left now there is a ways side, lol! Pronounced here without a strong "T"
What sawhorse/table is that?
Ok chickenhead.
Video needed to be longer to show the angle cuts matching up together. After the two different cuts where made.
Thanks
I need a way to cut a bevel into 2 inches of balsa wood. I bet this would tear it apart. Anyone know how I could do it without destroying the wood?
+Granite you can use one of these but id suggest getting a saw blade with more smaller teeth
+TheJusnic82 Thanks Dood
Thank you!
Can you cut metal with mitersaw? If i change the blades? At least 3/16 inch metals
John lim it's generally not recommended as saws intended from metal cutting actually operate quite a bit slower than woodworking saws. The difference in speed makes them more effective and less risky for metal cutting.
what's the difference between a compound miter saw and not a compound miter saw?
A compound miter saw can simultaneously make angled cuts AND beveled cuts, while a regular miter saw makes angled cuts only. Here's a little more detail: low.es/2kCV4mT Thanks for watching, Tim!
nice video
funny thing... on the miter cut he said the left side was the waste side (he cut on the left side of the pencil line), then he picked up the waste piece and said "there's your cut"! same thing on the bevel cut.
Thanks for the vid
steady I like, and I got this tool
what's the model number of that miter saw?
+Khristoffer Alexius Birondo model's been updated a bit, but here it is!
www.lowes.com/pd_132853-353-3316-03_0__?productId=3701590&Ntt=
You can also do these cuts with a hand held circular saw
Of course you can... But ask carpenters what they use to make miter/bevel cuts... Too much precision involved.
Hi anyone why would my compound mitre saw not cut right through any wood do i need a new blade or any sugestions i,m new to this so any help would be appreciated, Thanks Dianne
It could be your saw is too small for the cut your trying to make. Typically anything below a 10" saw blade will not make compound cuts for anything bigger than a 1x4. I have a 8-1/4 and I can only cut a 2x4 at 90°
hi they had put a smaller blade on it so i have brought the right size and it goes sweet as Thanks
Amazing!
What does "25° miter right, 10° bevel right" mean?
love it
A tree was harmed in the making of this video. LoL good video. Thanks
Not in my world, we use old wood :)
excellent tips but last part of vdo is blur.
Very helpful, thanks! :-)
NEVER LET GO OF THE BUTTON WHEN IN THE CUT, AMATEURS
I am my father's daughter..........he was a lumber-jack /wood-worker
Well goodness, I hope so.
@alohachristine To completely eliminate any chances of injuries.
I don’t understand the last cut. Compound cut. I thought you just cut to 45
Go the Bribie Woodcrafters 😀
ok, ok, I'll go to lowe's lol, thank you
Why does he hold the blade down to let the blade stop spinning? Why doesn't he let it go back up and stop spinning there?
Mine doenst go all the way down? 😑
There is a stop screw somewhere. Usually on the left side right behind the blade. It is used for cutting part way through a board for creating slotted joints. You either have to back the screw all the way out or the stop it hits sometimes can be rotated till there is a hole for the screw to go into.
I know it has been a year so hopefully you already figured this out but maybe this can help someone else.
Anyone gotta watch this for class?
me too :)
😃👍💯
Ear protection????
You maybe just can't see it. They can be tiny.
u cant cut straight 2x14 wood
You never said how mark the measurements.???
Why am I watching this, the miter saw is my worst nightmare!
Thumbs up if youre a real man and use a miter box and hand saw lol
Maybe explain what the hell a "waste line is
He said to cut on the waste side of the line. That means to line up the saw blade so it goes exactly beside the cut line, and on the side of wood which is being 'wasted', i.e. not the piece you will be using. You don't cut right on the line because the saw blade has width to it and will eat into both the waste side and the good side. I hope that helps.