Technically no, you run the risk of fracturing the socket and causing injury. I have and do occasionally use chrome sockets on an impact but typically not real high torque applications. I've had a chrome socket shatter while in use and it shot back at my hand and ripped through my skin like a serrated knife.
You may be able to claim warranty on Abigail box store, but not on a tool truck. Their Easley will know it was used on an impact tool and void the warranty. I’ve seen that happen.
Its not very smart or safe. Any decent tool guy knows how to tell if you put it on a impact if its chrome. Even the large corporate chains wise up to this eventually . A really heavy hitting, high power air impact, will shatter a chrome socket almost instantly. Its Very dangerous. But You do what works for you. Personally I don't use chrome and almost never break sockets except 1/4" dr. That way everybody is happy and nobody gets hurt.
@@JavierAguilar-xi8dh most hand tool brands have no questions asked replacement policy unless you buy a tool truck brand where they void out any and every warranty they can. Also I should clarify my original comment was a joke.
@@JavierAguilar-xi8dh I will say that I have warrantied many "misused" tools on a tool truck and they never asked any questions. Is it smart? No. Does it happen? Yes. Why, because you have a job to do and you use what you got, until that tool teaches you a lesson of it's capabilities.
My wife walked in and said WTF are you watching? I told her I am watching an Animated Man Bear talk to me about impact sockets... she walked out of the room very quickly
As a retired mechanic, I can tell you that when you use a chrome non-impact socket on an air-powered impact you will hammer the walls out in the drive portion of the socket. Impact sockets can withstand the hammering of the anvil in the impact gun. Don't ask me about the electric impacts because they were not around when I was working. All we had was air.
I feel air impacts still have purpose because I have a small air one that from testing puts out more power for it's size in comparison to an equivalent compact electric impact
Yeah, I thought it was just up there for the intro, but then it was still talking a minute in and I realized I was going to have to either just listen without watching the bear or turn it off. It was impossible to watch the content because of the weird bear!
I use my impacts pretty much all the time, whether I’m using an impact gun or not. The only time I bring out the chromies is if impact socket doesn’t fit
Mechanic here, I started out with only impact sockets. When I needed to get a socket in a tight spot I'd just go to the bench grinder and "modify" it. I wish I could claim to be the first to do this but guys do it all the time haha. Most shops have bench grinders and mechanics are problem solvers!!!
@@justarandomguy3969 There's a place called Harbor Freight. They have dirt cheap impact sockets. The modified sockets are not ruined. They get reused the next time I encounter the same problem.
@@justarandomguy3969I have a 3/8 Dr. 9/16 deep impact socket for removing rod cap nuts. I chucked it up in the lathe and took the grinder to it 29 years ago and it has removed more nuts than that in Congress. I've only ever bought one of those sockets.
Reminds me of the meme inspiration poster showing a guy with fifteen extensions and pivot joints and the wording under says “They said I’d have to remove the whole engine! Think again!”
I approach it from the opposite direction. I use impact sockets as much as I can, whether I'm using the impact or not. I only break out the vanadiums when the impact sockets won't fit.
I worked as a mechanic for 30 years and did the same. Not only more convenient but less expensive to replace (on average)if you loose or damage a socket.
Something for people to keep in mind is that not all black oxide finish sockets are impact rated. I have seen several sets over the years being sold in between the chrome and the impacts on the shelf that were black oxide but were not impact rated. The other thing to keep in mind is that a typical cordless drill with a hammer or impact setting isn't likely to break an impact socket but a quality heavy-duty impact gun will easily destroy a non-impact rated socket as easily as it will shear off bolts and nuts.
One other thing that plays an important role is the heat treatment of the sockets. You can control hardness with how it is heat treated. So you can make an impact socket more ductile and a “chrome” socket hard but more brittle, even if they are both CR-V.
@@ilikewaffles3689 true, but that's not really an issue here with sockets. Even for chrome sockets, you wouldn't want them harder than you can currently get them in CR-V today. My point was you can make chrome and impact sockets from the same alloy, but using the heat treatment to make the impacts more ductile so they don't risk shattering, and so they don't chew up the impact's anvil over time.
I’m a former engineer and manager for a few of the largest tool manufacturers in the US, specifically for sockets and metal finishing. This video is generally correct and is a great explanation for the layman.
Impact sockets can substitute for chrome but not the other way around. Except sometimes the impact socket won't fit a tight place. Beware there are some non-impact sockets that are black finish.
As a metallurgist, this video makes me happy. Btw on the stress-strain chart the absorbed energy = toughness. Another factor is the hardness of the steel from heat treatment and coating hardness. Generally, the coatings are much harder than the base metal. This higher hardness helps prevent cracks from forming while the softer base metal absorbs the forces applied. You can even see the crack pathway/river trail at 7:06!
Yeah it's kind of like armor on tanks and old warships like cruisers and battleships. You put the brittle hard armor on the outside with a layer of softer armor on the inside to catch the spalling. Same thing with tanks. It's really weird how you can hit a tank really hard and not have an actual penetration but on the back side of the impact the cruise all jacked up because they just got showered with shrapnel.
So you would be in the know to tell us which brand uses the best metal? I need a new socket set and looking as gearwrench and wera, my old craftsman is rusted so bad I can't read the sockets anymore. Or any manufacturers to stay away from that use that cheap China soft stuff?
Working on truck scales, I’ve broke a lot of chrome sockets. Using chrome sockets on impacts is fine short term, but they are definitely not interchangeable.
A thing you didn't mention that I was taught as the reason for chrome vs. black oxide finish impact sockets: When using an impact wrench many mechanics loosely hold the socket to guide it onto the bolt or nut by wrapping their hand around the socket. The impact can cause the chrome plating to come loose and peel off the socket. This is thin and razor sharp and the last thing you want spinning inside of your hand.
@@tommyellis7728 Yes, the steel the socket is made of flexes a microscopic amount under the impact. The chrome plating doesn't flex and peels off the surface of the socket.
A bigger threat than chrome pealing is the standard socket exploding.... It's even worse with the world of halfassers that will buy a set not knowing much and grab a 12pt set.. Have I used standard sockets on a air gun,yeah sometimes you just have to but never use them on anything bigger than 1" or you will more than likely have it explode,but I will not hold it or have the arc of that socket within or near the area of my face let alone my eyes. You also do not want to use a standard socket with a multiplier... Also not all standard sockets are chrome plated...some are anodized and some have the black oxide
Since cr-v is so brittle, they either go away from it for impact, OR they make it super thick to be able to take the impact. The biggest PRACTICAL difference between impact and chrome is that the spinning of the impact will wear through the protective coating, and they WILL rust if not oiled especially in humid climates. The Chrome coating will protect the steel forever if it is not chipped or worn off. Thus Chrome sockets tend to be "lifetime" tools, and impact sockets will wear down and tend to be "consumables". It doesn't matter if the tool is chrome coated or not, if it is made of the harder CR-V like the cheap pittsburgh impacts, they WILL be harder on your anvil, which is why you should put a cr-mo extension or adapter between them, something cheap to take that beating. In general treat cr-v as just "industrial finished" chromed sockets, and stick to cr-mo for impact. (AND STAY FAR FAR AWAY FROM MADE IN CHINA CR-MO, they do the "chinesium" recipe, and make glass sockets) - Gearwrench got burned switching away from Taiwan where the good stuff is made.
Chrome vanadium is not brittle at all. The point of adding vanadium is vanadium is completely immune to Bainite forming. And it retains full hardness while drawing hardness out of the carbides formed from carbon. The problem is not the steel the problem is lazy heat treat techniques. This is literally it you have to quench the socket in hot oil at about 200° f and hold it there for 4 to 8 hours at 200°. And they think that this is completely unpractical to wait 4 to 8 hours for an extra process. And that is why some sockets are junk and some sockets are not junk. I make armor out of chrome vanadium steel that stops 762×5, with no damage and will bend over 90° without breaking at 1/4" thick. This is why people shouldn't be trying to educate the internet on metallurgy with no experience whatsoever at heat treating.
It really is amazing how much minor changes in metallurgy can drastically change a metals performance. Hell just tempering can change things to crazy degree.
Or bad tempering We forgot to anneal a part and it just exploded, embedding a ~ 2kg piece (still stuck so only a guess) in a robot ~150 meters away from where we were Robot still works and we were able to patch the walls it passed through so nobody got fired :)
Chrome plating will start coming off when used with an impact. Turns it into nice little razor blades stuck to your socket. You also have to worry about the chrome flaking off and falling in what you are working on like an engine or something with moving internals.
I used a 19mm impact deep socket, then 14 in of extensions attached to a 24 in breaker bar then put a jack under the extension for stability then added a floor jack handle for leverage and pulled like mad. Now i own a impact.
Yes I used to use a air impact on honda crank bolt it took a while for the bolt to loosen now I own a milwaukee 1/2 high torque and it was loose in no time
Pretty much! Bikes made of chromoly (Reynolds 531 etc. frame tubing) can flex and absorb shock while being tough enough for BMX. Not sure if anyone has ever made a bicycle out of chrome vanadium--it sure would of been fun to watch a bike frame shatter and take out Junior at a BMX race...Chrome Vanadium....frame stiffness to die for!
@@Conqueef-tadoor Now you can brag to all your friends that your impact sockets are Chromoly--you can go back! My bike I have now is Chromoly--now to get a matching set of chromoly sockets--too cool for school.
@@ilikewaffles3689 I never said I saw a "12 point hex nut" (your original unedited comment). There are plenty of 12 point fasteners: www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=H20 They're used often on internal engine parts.
I was lazy, so I used my regular craftsman sockets on an impact gun, beat the hell out of a couple,of them...... Blew one up Took them back........ got them all replaced
As always, the best tool is the one you have that does the job. I sometimes have to use impact pipe wrenches to insert nails. Safety squints engaged (of course.)
I have a 6 ft pipe that as a joke I stamped " SNAP ON U.S.A 76589". But when that bad boy comes out it goes on an old proto breaker bar I bought on ebay, in tandem with my cheapo impact sockets. Snap on guy didnt think it was funny when I asked if he could warranty it for me because it has a slight bend though 😂.
One thing you missed is chrome plated scokets can sometimes shoot the plating off when used on a impact. I've been a mechanic for 14 years and I have all three types, impact, chrome and thin wall impact, you just have to be mindfull that the socket can fail if it's thin wall. You generally know when the impact is going full blast and the bolt is taking a while that you're putting a lot of stress into the socket, so don't put your hand there.
I always wondered what the difference between the chrome and impact sockets were, thanks Bear! Also, as a materials engineer and scientist, I really appreciated you talking about what elements comprised the different tools as well as using the stress-strain curve to get your point across. Spot on!!
This was HUGELY informative. Thankyou. I used chrome sockets as impacts for decades, mainly because it was a rarity. I only purchased some impact sockets recently. I found the greatest sugar hit to be going from 12 point chrome sockets to 6 point - and using them with an impact gun. I know I know, 'oh the humanity' 🤣
I have both styles. USA Craftsman for the hand tools and IR for the air tools. Most of the Craftsman tools are from my college days. IR came about 10 years later after buying the house and getting the compressor for Christmas one year. One day I was being too lazy and put my Craftsman 1/2" swivel joint on the air gun and it split in half on the 2nd bolt.
I have quite a selection Craftsman primarily but I also have some snap-on and some other stuff. I don't use it everyday so I don't feel the need to invest and overpriced tool truck stuff. I mean don't get me wrong I'm not saying they're not good I'm just saying I'm not going to spend that kind of money. As for Chrome sockets I've literally broken a few of them just using a regular ratchet. So I'm not inclined to put Chrome on an impact. The explosive force of the impact makes it pretty dangerous. So what's the point of not using the right kind of socke. Since Sears sold the Craftsman name, I won't touch them. If I need a hand tool it will be Icon.
I used chromed cv sockets for both until I broke one on an impact wrench. When I upgraded my tools in the last couple of years, I got Tekton chromed cv in 1/4 and 3/8 for hand use, and a fairly complete set of impact sockets, and I've ended up just using the impacts for most everything, since I stopped working on my cars about 10 years ago. (Honestly,, I have all 4 sets of the Makita impacts that I got on sale one Christmas, and I use those 90% of the time.)
Good info, and all this was known to me when I bought my first Snap On very expensive US made sockets from the tool truck over 40 years ago, and there weren't any names with abbreviations after them around for me to consult. Incidentally, Snap On was the first one to have the relieved corners in the hex of the sockets, they called that feature "flank drive" and it was patented, so it took decades for other makers to copy it, and now virtually all sockets are made that way. The chrome sockets are generally intended for hand use, they are slimmer and can fit into pocketed areas where the thicker impact sockets can't, and they are easier to keep clean and are good for internal engine and transmission work, whereas the thicker rugged impact sockets are better suited for rusty dirty chassis work, and these purposes can overlap here and there. The world won't end if you occasionally put a chrome socket on your impact. If you are concerned with personal injury if a socket shatters, there is PPE you can wear. If you put chrome sockets on your impact every day, you will get accelerated anvil wear not just from the alloy of the socket, but from the chrome plating inside the square drive, pure chrome is super hard on the relatively soft anvil. Also, have you ever considered giving that out-of-sync cartoon bear a rest instead of having him occupy half the screen for the entire video?
@The Den of Tools. Thanks Professor Red for today's lesson. I found it very educational and the key take away is to use the right tool for the job. I'd hate for someone to get a piece of chrome vanadium socket in their eye if it were to shatter compared to a chrome moly one that would crack. It's also very considerate of you to keep a set of thin wall wheel protecting impact sockets when a neighbor needs to have their tire changed and can help prevent from scratching their nice rims. Hate to think how many fancy rims get scratched when a auto or tire shop is too cheap to keep a set of thin wall wheel protecting impact sockets around. Hope you, Jeff, Blue, and your families stay safe and well. Shine on!
For what I do, I do use chrome on impact. Because it's rare that I have to do it. Yes I have thick-wall sockets that I use the heck out of, but the few times I need a thin wall (modern wheels usually) it doesn't justify the cost to buy another socket set for an already too full roll-away multi-bank tool box.
Thanks the for the tip. I've been using a standard socket on my mid range impact as a truss builder to set the pucks on the table jig, because impact sockets don't fit in a lot of the pucks. I'll look for a thin wall impact socket to use instead.
You can save the anvil of the tool by always using an impact rated short extension. I do that anyway, but because I could, also bought a cheapish set of deep-well impact sockets. Already understood the alloys to a degree, but it was good to put it together and cool to see examples. Can you change the bear to a squid?
Good point about lugnuts. It is really annoying that on both of our recent model cars, impact sockets are too thick to get into the lugnut cavity on the wheels. How hard would it be to make those openings just a little bit bigger?!
If they did, the tool manufacturers wouldn't be able to sell specialty tools for $$$$$$$$ and the equipment manufacturers wouldn't get the kickback $$$$$$$$$ from the tool,manufacturers.
I am a Metallurgist. You got it right. It's amazing how very small amounts of alloys or impurities or small changes in heat treating will make major changes in properties. The local farm store used to carry SK in the locked case. They showed examples of things that would void the warranty. One was that an impact wrench would sometimes round out the corners of the square hole in their chrome finish sockets.
I have been told two things for decades: 1.-Hitting two hammers together will result in something resembling a hand grenade. 2.-Using a regular socket in an impact driver will result in a socket that looks like a cartoon exploding cigar. The Mythbusters dispensed with the first.
I have the Wera tool check plus with the Wera 1/2 13mm-21mm Impaktor larger set. And as Project Farm recommend the 3pc DeWalt 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 hex adapters. Leatherman Surge, and Knipex Mini Cobras. All meant for motorcycle carry.
I love my sunex sockets, I didnt even buy chromes, however it is a little annoying to line up that ball detent on the impact sockets but its not to bad.
I think there is also a difference in wall thickness as well as the depth at which the socket intersects a fastener (from the front edge.) Edit: Of course you covered it.
@@escottn Which is why you get your impacts in 6 point, and cover 12 point needs with chrome, the most structural strength when nimbleness doesn't matter, and the most nimble for when it does.
I just use impact for everything, got too many tools as it is. Thanks for the vid, although I will note you said Magnesium several times when talking about the alloys when they in fact contain Manganese.
I’ve got the Harbor Freight deep impact sockets. They’ve got a black matte finish that rubs off on my hands when I’m working with them. Is there a way to clean them off or maybe some sort of spray on finish?
Good explanation. Never thought about anvil wear. Now we need you to provide a nice concise explanation for my wife on why I need so many sockets! 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, chrome and impacts, ones in my tool chest and ones in cases, as well as ones in my vehicles.
Biggest thing I found with using chrome sockets on impacts is ruining the friction rings on the anvil of your impact. Then your sockets start falling off and it gets annoying changing them all the time. All I use is impact grade sockets now, no other tools get worn out from them and if the socket itself gets worn, I get free replacement.
@@ILYxIW Yes I do,and no I don't have much of a problem with it....because I have enough gray matter in my head to remember when I tilt it to hold it from falling off...... The majority of people today are dolts and do not.. It does save a ton of time trying to remove a socket when the POS springs get wonky over picking up a socket every once in a while... Like I said,40+ yrs, wrenching on anything and everything that has a internal combustion engines or nuts and bolts.
@@rider660r sounds like you've been doing it wrong for 40 years. I've never had a problem with a friction ring. All my sockets stay on and come off with ease.
I went to Harbor Freight and picked up 3 of the 34in full bank boxes. Red, blue, black. Red and blue are SAE and Metric hand tools. The black is all impact and specialty tools (bearing pullers, ball joints etc etc) I have a xtool 20w laser and bought a bunch of the harbor freight foam floor Mats I used the laser and made edge to edge fitted foam with labeled cutouts for every socket, wrench, pick, bit, tap, and die. I also have quickjacks and do everything from my garage I just changed my clutch, lower control arms, sway bar endlinks, ball joints, both front wheel bearings and axles, motor and trans mounts, radiator, condenser, A/C Compressor, alternator, oil, oil filter transmission gear oil, timing chain, water pump. All this weekend, my toaster had 238,891mi on the clock. My factory original clutch was on the edge of total failure, and the alternator died last week, so I figured if I'm pulling the engine and trans might as well do a full front-end rebuild. Even installing air suspension with universal air bags and airlift 3H management dual 444's and a 3gal tank with a 1gal tank for a hornblaster set (the Compressor's fill the 1 gal and a check valve from the 1gal to the 3 gal to the valve block this way if I use the horn it can't take air from my suspension but when the bags start to use air it will kick on the Compressors and fill both tanks, this trick is simple but it basically means the suspension can use upto 4gals of air the the horns only get 1 gal both tanks are spun Aluminum with a water trap and an remote purge valve with a 3 sec timer the every time the car starts (I used this setup 25yrs ago on a mini truck and always had dry tanks and put 80,000mi on the truck and never had a hiccup it just worked
Great information again, I have Crome sockets & now impact sockets, I didn’t have impact sockets, so I used a Crome one, never again, it was a painful lesson, years ago I bought a set of non Crome sockets off of a Mac Tool truck, they were a lot cheaper in price than Crome, but not cheap quality. Keep all of the great information coming, shine on & have a blessed day
How long are impact bits supposed to last? I bought a kobalt brand hex shank half inch drive socket adapter for my impact driver. And it snapped off the first time that I used it. And also bought a ryobi impact Phillips bit and it broke the first time I used it on my impact driver.
My experience of using chrome on an impact is that they shatter as opposed to just cracking like impact sockets do. That is with professional grade sockets. Mac, snap on ,matco . They both have their advantages so as a tech you have to spend your pay checks for both sets.
When I need to use chrome with impact I simply crack the bolt loose first with a breaker bar. Then to fasten it back on with the impact I could give it only a few ugga duggas. Then tighten it the rest of the way with a torque wrench like we should be doing anyway.
So. I see some impact sets advertising that they are chrome-vanadium rather than chrome-moly. You touched on that fact, but didn't really go into detail. Are the chrome vanadium IMPACT sockets, (not to be confused with the chrome-vanadium chrome finished sockets,) to be avoided in your opinion?
For my 1 inch drive,I only buy impact sockets.Main reason is I have access to an electric impact wrench. My ratchet is a Blackhawk head with a 2 ton Chevrolet truck axle turned down to fit it for a handle.
I used to use only impact sockets, but had to many times when impact wouldnt fit. Finally 1 day had to leave a job to go buy a chrome socket to fit in a tight place, and now days I carry full sets of both. Nothing worse than having to leave a repair for an hour plus because you dont have the right tool.
Be careful at Harbor Freight because if you look at the description of *some* of the Pittsburgh brand impact sockets, you will find Chrome vanadium! So look carefully. Just because it looks like it doesn't make it so. That's why they are so cheap!
With the battery powered stuff, you might get by with either, but with air tools, you're going to want the impact sockets. The drive hole is the first thing to go on standard sockets.
I agree there are moments when you got to risk it because the impact sockets won't fit. I have just changed my buying practices for all extensions and everything, they all have to be impact grade. The way I look at it is if I get Chrome it's okay for my hand tools but it's not as safe with my impact tools. Keep in mind I have cordless electric and I have air tools. One of the air tools actually is a Snap-On and it was a gift. So if I break a socket or something and it's a silver socket I may replace it with a silver socket but I will also make sure I have it in impact grade.
12:10 Absolutely. My GO TO sets (SAE and Metric) of sockets are 1/2" deep well impacts. When those don't fit I go get something that does, but I always grab those first. I used the 7/8" yesterday, on a torque wrench even, to change out the blades on the mower. They're bulkier and heavier than standard sockets, but being someone who has had an impact related accident/incident, I can live with the minor drawbacks. I always have the impact sockets available in case I need to use an impact.
what most people don't know is that the chroming prepossess actually causes embrittlement of the steel when its done without first copper plating which only the top tool makers do.
Heck, I only very recently learned there was a difference. I'll probably continue using whatever ones I have, or whatever the pawn shop/hardware has when I come across a bolt I don't have the right sized nut for. Not buying a whole new set every time I need a singular piece....
I try to use the right tool for the job. But when I don't have the right tool, I use something with a lifetime warranty, and I actually use all the safety gear I am usually supposed to. However one thing I have noticed is that a real impact socket will transfer more torque or shock or something to the bolt to loosen it.
Use of chrome sockets also do damage to the impact.Grey Pnuematic sells the duo sockets which can be used on impacts and and hand ratchets which are chrome moly
Impact sockets being softer will also wear out due to extended use. They do get looser after a loooong time. But if it is a good brand, they will replace it.
My pneumatic impact wrench was trying to tell me something when I put a chrome socket on it and it refused to come off, I was being told I had chosen poorly.
i have run both impact sockets and chrome on both hand tools and impacts. I find that impact sockets are really much better on an impact and take the abuse much more, but they are not good at using hand tools. I find them too soft and they spread easy. Chrome sockets usually dont do well on impacts, but are much harder and work great for hand tools,
Impact tend to be 6 point surface drive (no pressure on the corners) and non-impact are 12 point and drive on the corners 6 corner give you less flexibility on positioning
It also depends on the manufacturering process. The process makes a difference in strength, and quality. Just because they are both made of the same thing doesnt mean they were handled the same and that matters on a microscopic level.
Not all impact sockets are CrMo but I find the better ones are. CrMo is softer so they won’t shatter as easy but they will deform easier being softer. The biggest thing you want is the heaviest thickest impact socket you can use. The heavier the socket the more torque that gets transferred to the nut/bolt. The thinner lighter sockets absorb a lot of the impacting energy from vibrations. If you don’t believe it try it. If you have a bolt that won’t come out with your current impact don’t buy a bigger impact try a thick socket first.
If the sockets have a lifetime warranty then they double as an impact socket
Technically no, you run the risk of fracturing the socket and causing injury. I have and do occasionally use chrome sockets on an impact but typically not real high torque applications. I've had a chrome socket shatter while in use and it shot back at my hand and ripped through my skin like a serrated knife.
You may be able to claim warranty on Abigail box store, but not on a tool truck. Their Easley will know it was used on an impact tool and void the warranty. I’ve seen that happen.
Its not very smart or safe. Any decent tool guy knows how to tell if you put it on a impact if its chrome. Even the large corporate chains wise up to this eventually . A really heavy hitting, high power air impact, will shatter a chrome socket almost instantly. Its Very dangerous. But You do what works for you. Personally I don't use chrome and almost never break sockets except 1/4" dr. That way everybody is happy and nobody gets hurt.
@@JavierAguilar-xi8dh most hand tool brands have no questions asked replacement policy unless you buy a tool truck brand where they void out any and every warranty they can. Also I should clarify my original comment was a joke.
@@JavierAguilar-xi8dh I will say that I have warrantied many "misused" tools on a tool truck and they never asked any questions. Is it smart? No. Does it happen? Yes. Why, because you have a job to do and you use what you got, until that tool teaches you a lesson of it's capabilities.
My wife walked in and said WTF are you watching? I told her I am watching an Animated Man Bear talk to me about impact sockets... she walked out of the room very quickly
Of the things she could have walked in on you watching she should be happy with you 😂
As a retired mechanic, I can tell you that when you use a chrome non-impact socket on an air-powered impact you will hammer the walls out in the drive portion of the socket. Impact sockets can withstand the hammering of the anvil in the impact gun. Don't ask me about the electric impacts because they were not around when I was working. All we had was air.
Same thing with electric (ryobi 3/8" impact). seeing that happen sent me to HF to get impact sockets for that purpose.
I feel air impacts still have purpose because I have a small air one that from testing puts out more power for it's size in comparison to an equivalent compact electric impact
@@BIGMEME_Retro.trance must be a dewalt
Get a snap on 1/2 inch cordless impact. It will RIP your arms off. You will never use air after that. But it's a thousand bucks.
@@kenbtheman I know the big electric ones kick butt but I'm talking about the small ones. th-cam.com/video/Qu-ichX64E4/w-d-xo.html
I was listening to this for 8 minutes then looked at the screen and said "oh my god, it's a bear!"
Yeah, I thought it was just up there for the intro, but then it was still talking a minute in and I realized I was going to have to either just listen without watching the bear or turn it off. It was impossible to watch the content because of the weird bear!
The bear is the only reason why I watch these videos.
Same here
@@ger13nunyah56 And the bear used to smoke cigars.... which made it a REALLY odd bear.
I use my impacts pretty much all the time, whether I’m using an impact gun or not. The only time I bring out the chromies is if impact socket doesn’t fit
Same. I just use all impact.
The black coating makes them easier to spin by hand too
I got the 3/8 chrome moly impact thin wall sockets three years ago for 15 bucks. Husky is the brand at the depot. Now they’re 36 bucks plus tax.
Mechanic here, I started out with only impact sockets. When I needed to get a socket in a tight spot I'd just go to the bench grinder and "modify" it. I wish I could claim to be the first to do this but guys do it all the time haha. Most shops have bench grinders and mechanics are problem solvers!!!
man i love that, using expensive impact sockets and ruining them so you have to buy new ones instead of buying chrome sockets that are cheaper
@@justarandomguy3969 There's a place called Harbor Freight. They have dirt cheap impact sockets. The modified sockets are not ruined. They get reused the next time I encounter the same problem.
@@justarandomguy3969I have a 3/8 Dr. 9/16 deep impact socket for removing rod cap nuts. I chucked it up in the lathe and took the grinder to it 29 years ago and it has removed more nuts than that in Congress. I've only ever bought one of those sockets.
Dad always said, "If you have to use a chrome socket on an impact tool, always use the shortest impact extension you can!"
My grandmother always said the first few times you shoot a gun, don’t shoot it too far until it’s broken in.
Disagree. I use a 20ft extension. Gets me out of the blast radius.
Reminds me of the meme inspiration poster showing a guy with fifteen extensions and pivot joints and the wording under says “They said I’d have to remove the whole engine! Think again!”
My grandma used to say "go buy your own tools".
Very interesting, I’ve always done that without knowing the benefits
I approach it from the opposite direction. I use impact sockets as much as I can, whether I'm using the impact or not. I only break out the vanadiums when the impact sockets won't fit.
I worked as a mechanic for 30 years and did the same. Not only more convenient but less expensive to replace (on average)if you loose or damage a socket.
Something for people to keep in mind is that not all black oxide finish sockets are impact rated. I have seen several sets over the years being sold in between the chrome and the impacts on the shelf that were black oxide but were not impact rated. The other thing to keep in mind is that a typical cordless drill with a hammer or impact setting isn't likely to break an impact socket but a quality heavy-duty impact gun will easily destroy a non-impact rated socket as easily as it will shear off bolts and nuts.
One other thing that plays an important role is the heat treatment of the sockets. You can control hardness with how it is heat treated. So you can make an impact socket more ductile and a “chrome” socket hard but more brittle, even if they are both CR-V.
The heat treat is everything.
Yes, but you can only make certain alloys so hard. Just like knives.
@@ilikewaffles3689 true, but that's not really an issue here with sockets. Even for chrome sockets, you wouldn't want them harder than you can currently get them in CR-V today. My point was you can make chrome and impact sockets from the same alloy, but using the heat treatment to make the impacts more ductile so they don't risk shattering, and so they don't chew up the impact's anvil over time.
Impact sockets are often thicker so they don’t always fit in tight spaces. Otherwise I’d use them for everything
Yeah, I use them for basically everywhere they fit.
I’m a former engineer and manager for a few of the largest tool manufacturers in the US, specifically for sockets and metal finishing. This video is generally correct and is a great explanation for the layman.
Impact sockets can substitute for chrome but not the other way around. Except sometimes the impact socket won't fit a tight place.
Beware there are some non-impact sockets that are black finish.
As a metallurgist, this video makes me happy. Btw on the stress-strain chart the absorbed energy = toughness. Another factor is the hardness of the steel from heat treatment and coating hardness. Generally, the coatings are much harder than the base metal. This higher hardness helps prevent cracks from forming while the softer base metal absorbs the forces applied. You can even see the crack pathway/river trail at 7:06!
Yeah it's kind of like armor on tanks and old warships like cruisers and battleships. You put the brittle hard armor on the outside with a layer of softer armor on the inside to catch the spalling. Same thing with tanks. It's really weird how you can hit a tank really hard and not have an actual penetration but on the back side of the impact the cruise all jacked up because they just got showered with shrapnel.
So you would be in the know to tell us which brand uses the best metal? I need a new socket set and looking as gearwrench and wera, my old craftsman is rusted so bad I can't read the sockets anymore. Or any manufacturers to stay away from that use that cheap China soft stuff?
Working on truck scales, I’ve broke a lot of chrome sockets. Using chrome sockets on impacts is fine short term, but they are definitely not interchangeable.
A thing you didn't mention that I was taught as the reason for chrome vs. black oxide finish impact sockets: When using an impact wrench many mechanics loosely hold the socket to guide it onto the bolt or nut by wrapping their hand around the socket. The impact can cause the chrome plating to come loose and peel off the socket. This is thin and razor sharp and the last thing you want spinning inside of your hand.
Is that why when taking off wheels it cuts me sometimes? I even have chr-moly Matco impact sockets and it does it.
@@tommyellis7728 Yes, the steel the socket is made of flexes a microscopic amount under the impact. The chrome plating doesn't flex and peels off the surface of the socket.
A bigger threat than chrome pealing is the standard socket exploding....
It's even worse with the world of halfassers that will buy a set not knowing much and grab a 12pt set..
Have I used standard sockets on a air gun,yeah sometimes you just have to but never use them on anything bigger than 1" or you will more than likely have it explode,but I will not hold it or have the arc of that socket within or near the area of my face let alone my eyes.
You also do not want to use a standard socket with a multiplier...
Also not all standard sockets are chrome plated...some are anodized and some have the black oxide
Since cr-v is so brittle, they either go away from it for impact, OR they make it super thick to be able to take the impact. The biggest PRACTICAL difference between impact and chrome is that the spinning of the impact will wear through the protective coating, and they WILL rust if not oiled especially in humid climates. The Chrome coating will protect the steel forever if it is not chipped or worn off. Thus Chrome sockets tend to be "lifetime" tools, and impact sockets will wear down and tend to be "consumables". It doesn't matter if the tool is chrome coated or not, if it is made of the harder CR-V like the cheap pittsburgh impacts, they WILL be harder on your anvil, which is why you should put a cr-mo extension or adapter between them, something cheap to take that beating. In general treat cr-v as just "industrial finished" chromed sockets, and stick to cr-mo for impact. (AND STAY FAR FAR AWAY FROM MADE IN CHINA CR-MO, they do the "chinesium" recipe, and make glass sockets) - Gearwrench got burned switching away from Taiwan where the good stuff is made.
Chrome vanadium is not brittle at all. The point of adding vanadium is vanadium is completely immune to Bainite forming. And it retains full hardness while drawing hardness out of the carbides formed from carbon. The problem is not the steel the problem is lazy heat treat techniques. This is literally it you have to quench the socket in hot oil at about 200° f and hold it there for 4 to 8 hours at 200°. And they think that this is completely unpractical to wait 4 to 8 hours for an extra process. And that is why some sockets are junk and some sockets are not junk. I make armor out of chrome vanadium steel that stops 762×5, with no damage and will bend over 90° without breaking at 1/4" thick. This is why people shouldn't be trying to educate the internet on metallurgy with no experience whatsoever at heat treating.
It really is amazing how much minor changes in metallurgy can drastically change a metals performance. Hell just tempering can change things to crazy degree.
Or bad tempering
We forgot to anneal a part and it just exploded, embedding a ~ 2kg piece (still stuck so only a guess) in a robot ~150 meters away from where we were
Robot still works and we were able to patch the walls it passed through so nobody got fired :)
Tempering...to a degree...
This gets me every time.
Chrome plating will start coming off when used with an impact. Turns it into nice little razor blades stuck to your socket. You also have to worry about the chrome flaking off and falling in what you are working on like an engine or something with moving internals.
The weighted sockets for the Honda crank pulley bolt work like majic. Well worth the small investment.
I used a 19mm impact deep socket, then 14 in of extensions attached to a 24 in breaker bar then put a jack under the extension for stability then added a floor jack handle for leverage and pulled like mad. Now i own a impact.
Yes I used to use a air impact on honda crank bolt it took a while for the bolt to loosen now I own a milwaukee 1/2 high torque and it was loose in no time
@@187fluffy187 jesus i would’ve just went to go buy an impact
I will always have a fondness for chromoly from the BMX days of my youth. Get Rad, Y’all!
Pretty much! Bikes made of chromoly (Reynolds 531 etc. frame tubing) can flex and absorb shock while being tough enough for BMX. Not sure if anyone has ever made a bicycle out of chrome vanadium--it sure would of been fun to watch a bike frame shatter and take out Junior at a BMX race...Chrome Vanadium....frame stiffness to die for!
GT Interceptor!
@@chrisreibold1634 GT box series was the Ferrari of BMX in 90s. That was made of aluminium tho.
YES! I used to brag to all my friends about my Mongoose being Chrome-Moly back in the 80's. 🤙
@@Conqueef-tadoor Now you can brag to all your friends that your impact sockets are Chromoly--you can go back! My bike I have now is Chromoly--now to get a matching set of chromoly sockets--too cool for school.
Impact sockets all.
Can't see having both. Never a problem.
Its when the damn fastener is 12 point, or recessed in a tight hole really that you have to deviate.
@@snap-off5383 when have u seen a 12 point nut?
@@ilikewaffles3689 I never said I saw a "12 point hex nut" (your original unedited comment). There are plenty of 12 point fasteners:
www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=H20 They're used often on internal engine parts.
I was lazy, so I used my regular craftsman sockets on an impact gun, beat the hell out of a couple,of them......
Blew one up
Took them back........ got them all replaced
I think we have all been there.
5:39 You heard him fellas...When it comes to (ahem)sockets... it's the thickness that matters. 😂😂😂
And how you use it 😉
that's what she said too lol
As an adult I am finally looking to learn about all things handy. I lost my dad earliery in life.... and now im learning from a Bear. Thanks Mr. Bear.
You’re the best and most knowledgeable bear I know. I met one at the local garbage dump but they didn’t know anything about sockets!
You made my day , the bears 🐻 where I live don’t know shit about sockets either
As always, the best tool is the one you have that does the job. I sometimes have to use impact pipe wrenches to insert nails. Safety squints engaged (of course.)
AvE approves of this
I have a 6 ft pipe that as a joke I stamped " SNAP ON U.S.A 76589". But when that bad boy comes out it goes on an old proto breaker bar I bought on ebay, in tandem with my cheapo impact sockets. Snap on guy didnt think it was funny when I asked if he could warranty it for me because it has a slight bend though 😂.
If you want to do a quick one by, just electric tape around the Cr-Va to stop the shreads and use goggles
Excellent explanation. I used to work at a major tool brand, and part of the metal “recipe” was also for how well the tools would take heat treatment.
You really never know when you're going to end up in that weird part of TH-cam.
Yeah, don't search the term Flex, it gets weird fast.
@@denoftools well now I want to :(
@@denoftools LeFlex lol
@@denoftools wtf ??! VTuber mechanic??!
YES
One thing you missed is chrome plated scokets can sometimes shoot the plating off when used on a impact.
I've been a mechanic for 14 years and I have all three types, impact, chrome and thin wall impact, you just have to be mindfull that the socket can fail if it's thin wall. You generally know when the impact is going full blast and the bolt is taking a while that you're putting a lot of stress into the socket, so don't put your hand there.
I always wondered what the difference between the chrome and impact sockets were, thanks Bear! Also, as a materials engineer and scientist, I really appreciated you talking about what elements comprised the different tools as well as using the stress-strain curve to get your point across. Spot on!!
I presumed the were harder as opposed somewhat softer. Love learning new stuff. I won't stop until they put the coins on my eyes and tag on my toe!
Agree, but it shows that neither one is ideal. Neither has the element of surprise, which is always extremely important.
Best use for thin wall impacts: Headbolts. I removed a head on a Volvo. Could only fit a Chrome socket in the hole, we were all scared it would bust.
7:27 “ I put chrome impacts on my sockets” 😂😂
This was HUGELY informative. Thankyou. I used chrome sockets as impacts for decades, mainly because it was a rarity. I only purchased some impact sockets recently. I found the greatest sugar hit to be going from 12 point chrome sockets to 6 point - and using them with an impact gun. I know I know, 'oh the humanity' 🤣
I have both styles. USA Craftsman for the hand tools and IR for the air tools.
Most of the Craftsman tools are from my college days. IR came about 10 years later after buying the house and getting the compressor for Christmas one year.
One day I was being too lazy and put my Craftsman 1/2" swivel joint on the air gun and it split in half on the 2nd bolt.
I have quite a selection Craftsman primarily but I also have some snap-on and some other stuff. I don't use it everyday so I don't feel the need to invest and overpriced tool truck stuff. I mean don't get me wrong I'm not saying they're not good I'm just saying I'm not going to spend that kind of money. As for Chrome sockets I've literally broken a few of them just using a regular ratchet. So I'm not inclined to put Chrome on an impact. The explosive force of the impact makes it pretty dangerous. So what's the point of not using the right kind of socke. Since Sears sold the Craftsman name, I won't touch them. If I need a hand tool it will be Icon.
I used chromed cv sockets for both until I broke one on an impact wrench. When I upgraded my tools in the last couple of years, I got Tekton chromed cv in 1/4 and 3/8 for hand use, and a fairly complete set of impact sockets, and I've ended up just using the impacts for most everything, since I stopped working on my cars about 10 years ago. (Honestly,, I have all 4 sets of the Makita impacts that I got on sale one Christmas, and I use those 90% of the time.)
Good info, and all this was known to me when I bought my first Snap On very expensive US made sockets from the tool truck over 40 years ago, and there weren't any names with abbreviations after them around for me to consult. Incidentally, Snap On was the first one to have the relieved corners in the hex of the sockets, they called that feature "flank drive" and it was patented, so it took decades for other makers to copy it, and now virtually all sockets are made that way.
The chrome sockets are generally intended for hand use, they are slimmer and can fit into pocketed areas where the thicker impact sockets can't, and they are easier to keep clean and are good for internal engine and transmission work, whereas the thicker rugged impact sockets are better suited for rusty dirty chassis work, and these purposes can overlap here and there. The world won't end if you occasionally put a chrome socket on your impact. If you are concerned with personal injury if a socket shatters, there is PPE you can wear.
If you put chrome sockets on your impact every day, you will get accelerated anvil wear not just from the alloy of the socket, but from the chrome plating inside the square drive, pure chrome is super hard on the relatively soft anvil.
Also, have you ever considered giving that out-of-sync cartoon bear a rest instead of having him occupy half the screen for the entire video?
@The Den of Tools. Thanks Professor Red for today's lesson. I found it very educational and the key take away is to use the right tool for the job. I'd hate for someone to get a piece of chrome vanadium socket in their eye if it were to shatter compared to a chrome moly one that would crack. It's also very considerate of you to keep a set of thin wall wheel protecting impact sockets when a neighbor needs to have their tire changed and can help prevent from scratching their nice rims. Hate to think how many fancy rims get scratched when a auto or tire shop is too cheap to keep a set of thin wall wheel protecting impact sockets around.
Hope you, Jeff, Blue, and your families stay safe and well.
Shine on!
For what I do, I do use chrome on impact. Because it's rare that I have to do it. Yes I have thick-wall sockets that I use the heck out of, but the few times I need a thin wall (modern wheels usually) it doesn't justify the cost to buy another socket set for an already too full roll-away multi-bank tool box.
I always put a 1" impact extension on my impact wrench when using chrome sockets which absorbs the blow and protected the chrome socket.
As a road tech, I can tell you that the weight of a socket, which has been proven, is extremely important when it comes to impact. Electric or air.
As a truck driver thanks for being there for us truck drivers.
Thanks the for the tip. I've been using a standard socket on my mid range impact as a truss builder to set the pucks on the table jig, because impact sockets don't fit in a lot of the pucks. I'll look for a thin wall impact socket to use instead.
“ I put chrome impacts on my socket” 😂😂😂😂
You can save the anvil of the tool by always using an impact rated short extension.
I do that anyway, but because I could, also bought a cheapish set of deep-well impact sockets. Already understood the alloys to a degree, but it was good to put it together and cool to see examples.
Can you change the bear to a squid?
Did they forget the chinesium in that chart?
Oh god that bear avatar is so creepy. It hurts.
Good point about lugnuts. It is really annoying that on both of our recent model cars, impact sockets are too thick to get into the lugnut cavity on the wheels. How hard would it be to make those openings just a little bit bigger?!
If they did, the tool manufacturers wouldn't be able to sell specialty tools for $$$$$$$$ and the equipment manufacturers wouldn't get the kickback $$$$$$$$$ from the tool,manufacturers.
I am a Metallurgist. You got it right. It's amazing how very small amounts of alloys or impurities or small changes in heat treating will make major changes in properties.
The local farm store used to carry SK in the locked case. They showed examples of things that would void the warranty. One was that an impact wrench would sometimes round out the corners of the square hole in their chrome finish sockets.
I have been told two things for decades:
1.-Hitting two hammers together will result in something resembling a hand grenade.
2.-Using a regular socket in an impact driver will result in a socket that looks like a cartoon exploding cigar.
The Mythbusters dispensed with the first.
Red don’t get those engineers started on heat treating or you will fall a sleep.
I have the Wera tool check plus with the Wera 1/2 13mm-21mm Impaktor larger set. And as Project Farm recommend the 3pc DeWalt 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 hex adapters. Leatherman Surge, and Knipex Mini Cobras.
All meant for motorcycle carry.
I love my sunex sockets, I didnt even buy chromes, however it is a little annoying to line up that ball detent on the impact sockets but its not to bad.
Shoulda got a hog ring. Never, ever buy an impact tool with the ball detent.
@@chuckschillingvideos oh yea of course hog ring is the way to go, im talking about ratchets and such
7:30 what did you say? 😂 “ I put chrome impacts on my SOCKET” lmao
I put ribbed impacts on my socket lol
I think there is also a difference in wall thickness as well as the depth at which the socket intersects a fastener (from the front edge.) Edit: Of course you covered it.
Yes. I primarily just use impact but there are situations where I could not because walls were too thick.
@@escottn Which is why you get your impacts in 6 point, and cover 12 point needs with chrome, the most structural strength when nimbleness doesn't matter, and the most nimble for when it does.
Notice impact sockets have more material or mass that is what makes up for the ductile property that's in the metal and makes it better for the job.
I just use impact for everything, got too many tools as it is. Thanks for the vid, although I will note you said Magnesium several times when talking about the alloys when they in fact contain Manganese.
I’ve got the Harbor Freight deep impact sockets. They’ve got a black matte finish that rubs off on my hands when I’m working with them. Is there a way to clean them off or maybe some sort of spray on finish?
First time I've ever listened to a lecture by a bear. I kind of like it. Good info presented here, thanks!
Good explanation. Never thought about anvil wear. Now we need you to provide a nice concise explanation for my wife on why I need so many sockets! 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, chrome and impacts, ones in my tool chest and ones in cases, as well as ones in my vehicles.
Biggest thing I found with using chrome sockets on impacts is ruining the friction rings on the anvil of your impact. Then your sockets start falling off and it gets annoying changing them all the time. All I use is impact grade sockets now, no other tools get worn out from them and if the socket itself gets worn, I get free replacement.
LOL for the last 40yrs I have removed all those rings because they're just a PITA to start with.
@@rider660r You remove friction rings from your impacts?? SO all your sockets just instantly fall off if you move your gun down at all. Okay
@@ILYxIW Yes I do,and no I don't have much of a problem with it....because I have enough gray matter in my head to remember when I tilt it to hold it from falling off...... The majority of people today are dolts and do not..
It does save a ton of time trying to remove a socket when the POS springs get wonky over picking up a socket every once in a while...
Like I said,40+ yrs, wrenching on anything and everything that has a internal combustion engines or nuts and bolts.
@@rider660r sounds like you've been doing it wrong for 40 years. I've never had a problem with a friction ring. All my sockets stay on and come off with ease.
@@ILYxIW Nope just do and know a lot more than you noob dolts today...
I went to Harbor Freight and picked up 3 of the 34in full bank boxes. Red, blue, black. Red and blue are SAE and Metric hand tools. The black is all impact and specialty tools (bearing pullers, ball joints etc etc)
I have a xtool 20w laser and bought a bunch of the harbor freight foam floor Mats I used the laser and made edge to edge fitted foam with labeled cutouts for every socket, wrench, pick, bit, tap, and die. I also have quickjacks and do everything from my garage I just changed my clutch, lower control arms, sway bar endlinks, ball joints, both front wheel bearings and axles, motor and trans mounts, radiator, condenser, A/C
Compressor, alternator, oil, oil filter transmission gear oil, timing chain, water pump.
All this weekend, my toaster had 238,891mi on the clock. My factory original clutch was on the edge of total failure, and the alternator died last week, so I figured if I'm pulling the engine and trans might as well do a full front-end rebuild. Even installing air suspension with universal air bags and airlift 3H management dual 444's and a 3gal tank with a 1gal tank for a hornblaster set (the Compressor's fill the 1 gal and a check valve from the 1gal to the 3 gal to the valve block this way if I use the horn it can't take air from my suspension but when the bags start to use air it will kick on the Compressors and fill both tanks, this trick is simple but it basically means the suspension can use upto 4gals of air the the horns only get 1 gal both tanks are spun Aluminum with a water trap and an remote purge valve with a 3 sec timer the every time the car starts (I used this setup 25yrs ago on a mini truck and always had dry tanks and put 80,000mi on the truck and never had a hiccup it just worked
I always wondered why HF and Tekton made impacts from both CrV and CrMo
Because the alloy doesn't matter nearly as much as the heat treatment.
Great information again, I have Crome sockets & now impact sockets, I didn’t have impact sockets, so I used a Crome one, never again, it was a painful lesson, years ago I bought a set of non Crome sockets off of a Mac Tool truck, they were a lot cheaper in price than Crome, but not cheap quality. Keep all of the great information coming, shine on & have a blessed day
You can get gray pneumatic sockets they say they are for both impact in regular ratchet sockets.
Impact sockets for your impact guns and chrome for your hand ratchets/cordless ratchets
How long are impact bits supposed to last? I bought a kobalt brand hex shank half inch drive socket adapter for my impact driver. And it snapped off the first time that I used it. And also bought a ryobi impact Phillips bit and it broke the first time I used it on my impact driver.
My experience of using chrome on an impact is that they shatter as opposed to just cracking like impact sockets do. That is with professional grade sockets. Mac, snap on ,matco . They both have their advantages so as a tech you have to spend your pay checks for both sets.
When I need to use chrome with impact I simply crack the bolt loose first with a breaker bar. Then to fasten it back on with the impact I could give it only a few ugga duggas. Then tighten it the rest of the way with a torque wrench like we should be doing anyway.
So. I see some impact sets advertising that they are chrome-vanadium rather than chrome-moly. You touched on that fact, but didn't really go into detail. Are the chrome vanadium IMPACT sockets, (not to be confused with the chrome-vanadium chrome finished sockets,) to be avoided in your opinion?
For my 1 inch drive,I only buy impact sockets.Main reason is I have access to an electric impact wrench. My ratchet is a Blackhawk head with a 2 ton Chevrolet truck axle turned down to fit it for a handle.
I'll bet $10,000 I can out torque it with a regular old 3/8 Craftsman ratchet with no cheater handle........
Just mind your hands on a chrome socket, if the chrome is peeling or about to, you don't want that to spin in your ungloved hands on an impact wrench.
I used to use only impact sockets, but had to many times when impact wouldnt fit. Finally 1 day had to leave a job to go buy a chrome socket to fit in a tight place, and now days I carry full sets of both. Nothing worse than having to leave a repair for an hour plus because you dont have the right tool.
Good video. The hyperactive bear head is driving me crazy though.
I’ve used chrome vanadium all my life for impact purposes, just not for heavy duty stuff, but even then breaking a socket means I crack it
Be careful at Harbor Freight because if you look at the description of *some* of the Pittsburgh brand impact sockets, you will find Chrome vanadium! So look carefully. Just because it looks like it doesn't make it so. That's why they are so cheap!
With the battery powered stuff, you might get by with either, but with air tools, you're going to want the impact sockets. The drive hole is the first thing to go on standard sockets.
I have abused the crap out of Tekton impact sockets and I have yet to hurt one.
I'm very impressed with the quality versus the cost.
I like having both types but 90% of the time I put the chrome on the impact is because of the thickness and needing to fit in a tight spot 🤷
I agree there are moments when you got to risk it because the impact sockets won't fit. I have just changed my buying practices for all extensions and everything, they all have to be impact grade. The way I look at it is if I get Chrome it's okay for my hand tools but it's not as safe with my impact tools. Keep in mind I have cordless electric and I have air tools. One of the air tools actually is a Snap-On and it was a gift. So if I break a socket or something and it's a silver socket I may replace it with a silver socket but I will also make sure I have it in impact grade.
12:10 Absolutely. My GO TO sets (SAE and Metric) of sockets are 1/2" deep well impacts. When those don't fit I go get something that does, but I always grab those first. I used the 7/8" yesterday, on a torque wrench even, to change out the blades on the mower. They're bulkier and heavier than standard sockets, but being someone who has had an impact related accident/incident, I can live with the minor drawbacks. I always have the impact sockets available in case I need to use an impact.
Been using chrome sockets on impacts for years. NEVER had any issues. Ever
what most people don't know is that the chroming prepossess actually causes embrittlement of the steel when its done without first copper plating which only the top tool makers do.
Heck, I only very recently learned there was a difference.
I'll probably continue using whatever ones I have, or whatever the pawn shop/hardware has when I come across a bolt I don't have the right sized nut for. Not buying a whole new set every time I need a singular piece....
Well actually! (heads back to mums basement)😢
It's my dads basement
You mispelled ackchyually
Mate, that comment was for Dennis NERDY.
Had to watch this twice, I always wondered the difference, great explanation!
also it depends on the size of your fastener what are you trying to break loose also what are you trying to tighten those fasteners down to?
I try to use the right tool for the job. But when I don't have the right tool, I use something with a lifetime warranty, and I actually use all the safety gear I am usually supposed to. However one thing I have noticed is that a real impact socket will transfer more torque or shock or something to the bolt to loosen it.
Use of chrome sockets also do damage to the impact.Grey Pnuematic sells the duo sockets which can be used on impacts and and hand ratchets which are chrome moly
I have the 3/8 duo sockets in fractional and metric. They work well.
The Tekton set you spoke of is Cr-V.
Everything you wanted to know about sockets, but were afraid to ask😃
Good job roughing it out for us 🐻
You would have to be so old like us to figure out that reference.
Impact sockets being softer will also wear out due to extended use. They do get looser after a loooong time. But if it is a good brand, they will replace it.
My pneumatic impact wrench was trying to tell me something when I put a chrome socket on it and it refused to come off, I was being told I had chosen poorly.
Bear,
Thanks for putting this in common working man terms. You explained this well without getting into a properties of materials class.
2 parts Chevy, 1 part Ford. The folks over at chevy use a touch of chrome vanadium I think - Burt Monroe
Brilliant !!!
Most Tekton impact sockets and extensions are made from chrome vanadium. They save the chrome moly for the larger size impact sockets and adapters.
i just watched the bear vid 3 seconds after posted.... i'm an addict
i have run both impact sockets and chrome on both hand tools and impacts. I find that impact sockets are really much better on an impact and take the abuse much more, but they are not good at using hand tools. I find them too soft and they spread easy. Chrome sockets usually dont do well on impacts, but are much harder and work great for hand tools,
Impact tend to be 6 point surface drive (no pressure on the corners) and non-impact are 12 point and drive on the corners
6 corner give you less flexibility on positioning
It also depends on the manufacturering process. The process makes a difference in strength, and quality. Just because they are both made of the same thing doesnt mean they were handled the same and that matters on a microscopic level.
That was a good one. Better than your average bear.
Not all impact sockets are CrMo but I find the better ones are. CrMo is softer so they won’t shatter as easy but they will deform easier being softer. The biggest thing you want is the heaviest thickest impact socket you can use. The heavier the socket the more torque that gets transferred to the nut/bolt. The thinner lighter sockets absorb a lot of the impacting energy from vibrations. If you don’t believe it try it. If you have a bolt that won’t come out with your current impact don’t buy a bigger impact try a thick socket first.