In the past hand held stability ends at 300mm. It was impossible to hold lens steadily at 600mm and shutter speed lower than 500th. But modern stabilizing of lens and body makes it possible to shoot clear sharp photos a few stops lower. It is easy job to use lenses with Sony's stabilizer to produce clear sharp photos in speed lower than 500th.
Likely due to aperture, the same aperture at different focal length will result in different sharpness. He needs to step down the aperture when he zooms out. He should test at home at which aperture is sharpest at 600mm. This is a common problem for zoom lenses.
@@ulysseslee9541Well, try using 135mm on f/2 or f/2.8 for >20 sec with a tracker for any object or try the Polaris in the centre, then < 2 sec would still be fine.
會唔會係快門唔夠快 導致影像模糊呢?
首先調高嘅快門先啦. 好多時都係快門唔夠快. 唔係就要攞上去Sony CS Check下個對焦啦.
In the past hand held stability ends at 300mm. It was impossible to hold lens steadily at 600mm and shutter speed lower than 500th. But modern stabilizing of lens and body makes it possible to shoot clear sharp photos a few stops lower. It is easy job to use lenses with Sony's stabilizer to produce clear sharp photos in speed lower than 500th.
大晴天，中午在户外试，手持的话快门1000以上，用脚架或者放在固定位置影可以慢D，如果是局部唔够sharp，特别是光圈全开时的画面边缘，这是有可能的，可以试试收光圈，一般收到8-11 光圉左右会好好多。还有个个人经验，不知对不对，如果是收光圈长曝光，要把机身和镜头的防抖关了才行，开着防抖放固定位置或者脚架长曝光反而是不行的，机器好像会自己在动，关了防抖就不会了，不知其他人有没这经验 ，
以我仲係用DSLR CANON EOS 60D + EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS II USM 的經驗來說
用300MM , 實際480MM(APS-C), 其實頗手震, 要加快快門速度
600mm 應該要單點對 + 再快D 快門, 用腳架, 用倒時, 因為你會物理性手震
不過如果說機場影飛機那些熱汽流就無計了
落腳架 M快門 20 秒 都冇問題。 識用 reflective pattern 同 Bahtinov mask 就得。
玩左呢支鏡水貨1年，快門太慢乜都係假，我玩600mm 焦距 最大光圈 F6.3 1/1000s Auto ISO 絕對係sharp。就算夜晚打貓頭鷹，1秒都一樣sharp到可以同400 2.8有得拼，輸9條街就假的，最多輸5條街。
btw, 零下20°C 用600 mm 影雪地松鼠 真係要加個 usb Lens warmer，變溫走焦咪𣋡哂囉。😂
我用2868+1.4仲要用A93 都冇問題。 當然唔會張張咁消 影雀眼睛 可以好清楚。
我剛入手sony 200-600 , 多次重複測試發現 同樣用中心點對焦, AF-S 時非常準確同SHARP, 但用AF-C 時就會間中出現中央主體有鬆情況, 似係走焦似的, 請問是正常嗎?
Likely due to aperture, the same aperture at different focal length will result in different sharpness. He needs to step down the aperture when he zooms out. He should test at home at which aperture is sharpest at 600mm. This is a common problem for zoom lenses.
手震機會幾大？！
👍 我都相信他在600mm時 並沒有提高快門速度
我都是使用這技鏡頭 並沒有這個問題
馬場有布文ok大師， 攝影界都有伍ok攝影大師
200600有可能有QC問題，已經見唔少人講過
影生態同風景，用响A7RIV 同 A7IV 都冇問題
除咗伍sir講嗰幾個可能性，機主本身有冇check 支lens上嘅buttons呢？例如距離full range or 10m 以下或10m to infinity. 有冇開防震，佢對焦時係咪少過最少對焦距離？
大炮都有sweet spot, 例如我支Sigma 150-600mm f8 係sweet spot, 影月亮比f6.3會sharp 少少。
th-cam.com/video/ruaGuZyeax4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=xgED6K0zH3Ttrre1
200600用家路通：我用佢配a7rv 600mm段打雀，sharp到𠝹手。如果用a7iv，正常喺唔會唔sharp。
我都係咁認為
試埋手動對焦6佰端，確定自動對焦有無偏差
熱氣流？
定焦600mm真係好好多
以前有支 CANON 500mm reflective lens. 沙灘（街）拍一流。
topaz sharpen AI is a good choice
以前600mm安全快門600份1秒，依家300份之1秒都可以!!!
zoom盡600mm 用無限遠影天上星星呢，就一定唔sharp。 （因為無限遠係要嚟影 紅外線嘅。）回返少少就A-Okay。相反，你影既目標係咪太近呢？太近一樣唔清㗎。空氣質素唔好，又唔清。加在濾鏡，又唔清。上咗幼身腳架，唔用Remote Shutter，又唔清。相機sensor 細，都唔清㗎。散射光對比低又唔清。快門慢，手震，地面震，地面熱，大風，心跳加速，閉氣等等，都會唔清㗎。
影星星快門太慢也會矇, 因為地球有自轉
search and learn to use the deflection pattern snd Bahtinov mask. If you can shot Polaris Flare, you lens should be fine.
@@ulysseslee9541Well, try using 135mm on f/2 or f/2.8 for >20 sec with a tracker for any object or try the Polaris in the centre, then < 2 sec would still be fine.
@@ulysseslee9541嗰條係 star trail， 唔矇㗎喎
今日開始，攝影界又多咗一個新摄影形容詞去表達唔sharp : 👉🏻👉🏻Donald trump 都啱啱郁咗。
快門唔夠快機會大
A74 加 200600 有時真係冇咁sharp 親身試過
你指成支鏡唔sharp定係局部？
600想對很Sharp, 就唔可以買Zoom ! 係景深問題！我係星島退休攝記, 只有定焦最Sharp !
多謝你的意見，我都有替星島寫過副刊。
@@alexngphoto 我是蒙俊雄, 亦曾經為車主雜誌及車王做過一級方程式coverage. 在星島做過22年, 係因為裁員所以退休.
蒙兄你好，車主雜誌及車王都是相當好的車書，當年你為這兩書效力肯定是高手，向你學習！在星島做過22年是相當長的日子，我寫專欄的時候分別是新聞大廈和長沙灣那邊，唉，日子久遠了。 你退休後仍有拍攝吧？ 這是終生的活動。
@@alexngphoto 退休前用Nikon, 退休後用Sony, 包括手機在內. 其實, 我每次上去Nikon, 最唔想見到就係佢地果位Connie Lok, 退休後一天光晒, 唔駛再理複雜人事關係. 做F1 coverage又要對住法國佬及其他國家嘅傳媒及人, 當年得我一個華人, 真係是非多好煩.
100%基本功問題，例如按快門手震......吾好乜都賴器材！
我相信發問者並沒有賴器材 ，他只是查詢。
伍Sir 對的👍咁我收返賴器材呢幾个字😁🙏，不過影相基本功真係新手必定要學好💪
係我😂？