There is a slightly faster way to do this instead of guessing. At the lowest point of your crossover null play a test tone at that exact frequency and your decibel meter in REW should match what your reading showed I. Your measurement. Keep playing that test tone while adjusting your distance in real time. You should see your decibel meter rising in volume. Once it stops rising your distance should be set for your crossover point. Rerun your sweep to verify and you should be done. 👍🏾.
@JavonDGreen I just tried this out a couple of days ago, and why have I never done this before? It saved me so much time that I will be making a video about it and giving you a shout out for bringing it up. THANK YOU!
@@AlessandroMartinello-vc5rg It should mean, after you have set your crossovers, wherever your null (lowest point) is, somewhere near or at the crossover, you would set REW to output at that frequency and then go and make the distance adjustments trying to remove that null. The lowest point may not be right at the crossover because the crossover is not a hard cliff but a gradual decline.
You should do a guide on checking each speakers frequency response with Audyssey turned off to understand why Audyssey set the roll off point for the crossovers. My M&K 750's are rated down to 80 hz, but Audyssey set them to 150 hz.
I understand not everyone has the tech I do but I was upfront about what you’d need in the very beginning of the video. I’d like to point out that you don’t need a miniDSP for this type of thing. This video was also not intended to reach a massive audience, and I’m just one guy doing this by myself trying to help people with the stuff I’ve learned. This video is also free and I have many more like it. The real issue is: there isn’t an easy and accurate way to do what I’m doing in this video BY EAR. You may get lucky, but you won’t have any data to back it up. I would absolutely recommend sticking with an 80Hz crossover if you don’t have access or the funds for a measurement microphone (provided you already have a laptop).
Brad, it's clear that you're passionate about home theater, always looking to learn more and squeeze more performance out of your equipment. Enjoy how u take info that's already out there--always giving credit of course!--and make it your own. Your teaching style's great and your editing/presentation is fun. Looking forward to enjoying more of your content, big fella.
I thank you very much for this video. Your process worked perfectly for me. I have tried, many times, over 2 years or so to get my subwoofers integrated with the other 5 channels--just couldn't seem to be impressed. My room is a great room 17 ft X 37 ft X well over 12 ft high (I am using about 17ft X 28 ft for the home theater setup). I am using two HSU VTF-15h MK2 subs, and Front Left and Right are Goldenear Triton One speakers. So, I am trying to integrate ported with sealed! Thanks to this video, I did just that this morning, and I feel like I just bought a new system!!!! Also, I centered the home theater on the 28 ft wall since the short wall has a huge window in the middle--this wall has the HSU subs. I use this system for stereo also, and what a difference after this setup process! Now I fully understand what is meant by bass punch, and pant leg flapping--WOW! (Note: I did the center channel and surrounds also)
Just always use LFE+Main setting with mains as full range, this will always give you much flatter response with a single run of Audyssey. Using LFE and setting crossovers on mains will almost guarantee you these headaches with nulls. BTW setting crossover so high to 100+ Hz will make you "hear" the subwoofer, not usually a good idea.
Hi, I don't think you should touch distance at all. Because it sets the delay of the speakers, in this instance the subwoofer. This way sub will be off as the audyssey set it up for the listening position. You may get flatter response, but messing up in time domain.
Sometimes Audyssey does get this wrong, especially if you have multiple subwoofers and/or are using a MiniDSP. If you have a dip at and around your crossover point, then more than likely your subs and main speakers aren’t aligned properly and Audyssey couldn’t get it quite right. Close, but not right on the money.
I found 110Hz best for my system and room too. Even though 110Hz seems to go against others advise, it is what it is. Thanks for your help! Liked and Subscribed.
Brad, I know this is an older video, but I am having an odd thing happen when I adjust my crossovers in my sub and or mains in my Denon 8500H. I am not getting any different response in REW. My graph looks almost identical to the one before, not varied like yours or Home Theater Guru's. Any idea why that might be?
Great video, sorted my sub issues but unfortunately I've come across an issue, in asio4all I cannot see or find my avr in output. Any idea? ASIO control panel won't open either....using a umm-6
Still prefer using the alignment tool in REW, much more granular especially for the OCD minded. But this method is easier for most people, also tried and true tested, just more time consuming. P.S - for those crying about the 80hz golden rule, holy chalice - ye shall not change the crossover to anything else, do know that when THX "established" that standard they tested in a perfect rectangle room, sized in a way where the boundaries weren't affecting the 80hz region. Your room IS NOT a perfect rectangle unless you designed and built it from the ground up in the first place, with the proper measurements. That's why 80hz as a golden rule is outdated.
How would this process change if your receiver only has one sub out and you've daisy chained two subwoofers in opposite corners of the room. The front right sub is~ 9’ and the rear left is ~10’ from the listening poistion. Thank you.
When u first tested & set the L to -75 you didn't match the R & sub. Then when u took the reading u used L+R. Did u forget to do the other 2 or you only need to set the L to -75? Thanks
Problem solved! (operator error) I ensured a factory reset to MiniDSP, factory reset to the Denon AVR, ran Audyssey, then followed your great instructions for using MiniDSP, and voila! My main problem was trying too many things at once. Originally, I used both subwoofer outs ( they are independent of each other) on the AVR: One for the HSU subs, and one for the Triton LFE inputs. Additionally, I was reading the MiniDSP tutorials, and also the tutorial without MiniDSP. So, yeah, I regrouped and all is well now. Thank you for the help.
Trust me when I say I know all about operator error haha. My wife and I watched a movie recently and I only realized after the fact that my crossovers were still set at 250Hz from doing some measurements earlier that day. I had thought things sounded a bit off and figured it was the audio mix, but I was so tired that I didn’t bother checking. Whoops!
REW CAN do Atmos, you just have to feed the signal to the top speakers and then, through ASIO if I am not wrong, you can measure and adjust ATMOS speakers as well.
You’re correct. It can now through various ways (such as loading a sweep file encoded in Atmos). To my knowledge, that wasn’t the case back in August of 2021 when I released this video.
Can you explain the switch from java to ASIO in the video? When should I be using each one when testing/tweaking? What is the difference? Really enjoying your videos as I learn how to use REW to improve my sound, thank you!
Just upgraded from DENON x1500h to x4800h. Got a mic and REW and trying to set everything up correct. So got the crossover point nearly perfect until I realized I was only using the R speaker… so set to L+R and issues again. So started from scratch and got some improvement but not nearly as good as before. Then I went to run the sweep with my center giving new crossover point and sub delay… looked bad… Any advice? Seems to can’t get both L+R to look good at same time as center. My room doesn’t have the best acoustics..
Why does the "add a foot" method help you decipher that you need to UP your crossover? I'm missing that jump. Also, doesn't changing the sub distance mess up your cohesion between speakers and sub?
Hi Brad, Just wondering.., how did you get on with measurements when you moved into your new space? Only popped into my head last night as I swapped my centre out for an upgraded speaker and still end up on 110Hx crossover like you to remove a null 😄
A bit old, but u explained it very well and learning us this stuff the properway.. but one question, and nobody seem to talk about, what impact has the distance setting for the rest of the speakers in the whole setup.. u keep the "real" distance for those speaker or has it also influence for the crossovers?
I used this last night with a 2 sub setup and my Denon X3800. Both subs on the back wall of the listening space. I have 2 RSL's - a 10S mkii and a 12S. Audyssey gets it pretty spot on for the 12S but the 10S was way off!! I also dinked with the phase - ended up having 1 at 0º and the other at 180º which made a big difference. Anyway - thanks for making these easy to follow (short!!) youtubes. I had bought the UMIK-1 but had been hesitant to use it as it seemed pretty intimidating at first. You're demystifying it for me.
I know this is a year old video, but trying REW and really like your channel, I have an Arcam 390, but I can only set a general crossover, not for idividual speakers, no matter what I try I cannot get a flat-ish line, also using output L=R doesn't seem to use the sub, am I doing something wrong??
I'm coming to this video a couple of years late, but I'm curious to know why the alignment tool was not helpful. In my experience this past weekend, the predicted response from the alignment tool matches the measured response perfectly, once I figured out which direction to go. To "add" delay to the left sub, I had to either reduce the distance in the processor or add distance to the right sub. On the surface, it's a little counterintuitive, but it makes sense once you think about it.
Great stuff Brad! These videos should be called "How to make Audyssey not suck", lol. Seriously though, Audyssey should be getting this right on its own, pretty disappointing that it doesn't and we have to go through the manual tweaks. Also, changing distance to achieve a flatter response, wouldn't this also have adverse effects on the time alignment of the bass to your mains potentially causing bass to hit out of sync with the other speakers?
Hello greetings to all. I am translating, sorry for the errors, I have the rew program installed on my laptop, but the program does not recognize my RX-A2060 receiver. What to do in this case?
Hello, I'm new to the home theater set up and need major help for adjusting dual subs and klupsch ultra 2 set up. Where can I contact to somebody to do the speaker alignment for me? I'm in California
So I’m trying this technique and for some reason I’m getting a severe drop off in output starting at 100hz when trying this method using Java. I’ve been doing measurements using Asio for a while now getting a good response down to 10hz so I’m confused as to why this is happening with Java. I’ve tried using the stereo and Dolby surround options with the same result. Two subs are crossed at 80hz with mains in my Marantz AVR. Why is my output plummeting from 100hz and down using Java? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Brad I know there is a follow up vid to this that I'm about to watch but it's clear that a lot of time and effort went into this. As someone that's just got a UMIK 1 and installed REW this vid and the next are going to be fantastic for me to get the feet wet so to speak. Truly fantastic work. Cheers!
Hey man please little help i have a monolith 15 sub and i cant find the best spot to my room i try them all but i have a big null in 45hz and some other frequencys i run audyssey i dont have microphone umik1 for example or mini dsp you believe if i took microphone umik 1 and mini dsp to can make some difference to the curve in few months im gonna buy a second one sub but for now what can i do also you have facebook to explain me better there??? Thank you and im waiting your help🙏🙏🙏🙏
Thank you, but your explanation is very fast and those of us who don't speak English can't follow you, you should do this same class more slowly in two or three videos.
Buddy please little help i have dual subs and i run aydysey and i want to tell me how to calibrate the dbs on subs i have to raise up the gain ffrom back the sub or ffrom receiver can yyou tell me exactly what ii have to do?
Has anyone else performed this method of integration, and then reinstall and try to tweak further via MiniDSP? I had been using the 2X4HD previous to this setup. I hooked it up after manual integration and found a large suckout around 32hz that did not exist before. I checked to make sure the MiniDSP did not have any settings (delays, PEQ, etc) loaded. Anyway, I tried, with no success to better the manual measurements previously rendered without the aid of MiniDSP, and decided to leave it the way I had previously tweaked per this video. Maybe the cables from sub out to the MiniDSP gave extra delay? Help/suggestions are welcome!
That’s really interesting. I have not had this happen. Have you tried going to a clean configuration in the MiniDSP software? I would start there to troubleshoot issues. Maybe try resetting the loaded config to default, then making sides the crossovers are bypassed on echo channel in the MiniDSP. See if you still have the issue.
At 3:00 into the video you mentioned pointing your mic up at the ceiling... but what if the ceiling is not normal? I have a sloping or vaulted ceiling that starts at about 8ft in height at the back of the room and slopes up to 15ft at the front. How should the mic be placed in a room like that???
Good video. Been using REW for a year but just installed Asio. Waiting to calibrate my system until I get a few new acoustic panels I purchased. Could you run a sweep with each channel and the subs in the same way one does with the LR for alignment?
These videos keep on giving. I appreciate not assuming the audience knows anything. Seriously. I had my REW spl meter set to Z and I had no idea why adjusting trims on my speakers was doing nothing (I have to exit out of the menu first). 10/10 video.
Hi , would you set you these floorstanders to 40hz if it had these specs: Frequency Response (+/- 3 dB): 44Hz - 22kHz, Nominal Impedance: 6ohm, Sensitivity: 92dB Q acoustic 3050 Floorstanding Marantz 6007 av receiver Thanks
I probably wouldn’t. A good rule of thumb is to set the crossover 10-20Hz higher than what the speaker is rated for, as a starting point anyway. So for you, I’d maybe start at a 60Hz crossover and see if you get good response using the method in this video. If you can’t, you’ll more than likely need to raise it.
Hello Brad Just one question... I have a pair of main Goldenear Triton which comes each one with powered amplified subwoofers 1,600 watts with lfe inputs built in. This model manuals is very clear that you set them up as Large speakers and the option of connecting LFE cable from sub preout on avr to the internal lfe input on the main speakers. How do I get LFE signal to calibrate and align lfe responses if manual is already telling me to setup mains as Large speakers? Thanks.... The only way I can think of is turning on the option on AVR that says LFE+Mains. 🤔🤔 I also have 2 extra on each side of room Goldenear Super Subs XXL and love the integration of all 4 powered subwoofers all together
Hopefully, you have already sorted this situation. I have a similar setup with Triton One mains, and I am using two separate subwoofers (connected to AVR LFE output via MiniDsp 2X4HD). Problem: with the Tritons placed out in the room (front baffles 57 inches from the front wall), the bass produced is not ideal (and, you can adjust the bass level with a control on the back of each Triton). When you compound this by two separate subwoofers, I discovered some dropouts in the bass region using REW. My solution, to date, was to set the Tritons as Small in the AVR (Denon X3300W), and crossover (LFE) to the separate Subwoofers, and not send LFE output separately to the Triton Towers. I truly believe the home theater and stereo setups should be totally separate regardless of what speakers you use for Front left and right. Since I am not willing to separate the two items, compromises have to be made. In any event I certainly would not use LFE + Main setting in the AVR. Just my considered opinion. Hope this is helpful to you.
Brad, awesome video! I do have a question...in your video to get a flatter response on your sub you adjusted your distances but on your main speakers you only adjusted crossovers. Wouldn't adjusting those distances also help?
Thanks for commenting! In theory, yes, it could help, but it would also throw off the time alignment of the front left and right channels with all the other speakers in your system. If you just have stereo or 2.1 channel setup, then it probably wouldn't really be noticeable, but in a multichannel setup I wouldn't suggest adjusting those distances as you want each speakers sound arriving at your ears at the right time (sub distance is a bit different which is why it's ok to make small adjustments to it).
Brad, I used REW to help me with my dual El Cheapo subs, but I could not get rid of the major 80hz dip. I ran an 80hz tone and found that the problem is my couch! The soft couch sucks up the 80hz tone so much that I couldn't hear the tone while sitting back, but when I moved forward the edge of the seat the 80hz tone was loud. I moved the couch ahead two feet and I had the same outcome. I never considered the this issue could be so pronounced. DANG!
@@HomeTheaterGamer During all of my REW work I placed my UMIK-1 on a mic stand near my seated ear position. Next time I'll try it both at ear position and just ahead of the couch seat cushion at ear height. As far as the crossovers go, I got the best response last time at 120 for the L&R, 90 center, 80 surround and 100 ceiling. I'm going to play several test tone frequencies and listen to hear where in the room each one is the loudest. That should be very interesting. I hope you will try it also. Thanks for your replies to my postings. Have a great day.
Excellent video and perfect timing as I was literally just following your other guides earlier today as I just got a UMIK-1. Questions: 1) After running Audyssey do I need to bring my sub trim levels back up to “0” in order to take my REW measurements? Or do I leave the sub trim levels at the level Audyssey set and just bring up the master volume on the AVR until I get a reading of 75db? 2) Since I have dual subs connected to the AVR, any distance adjustments I make have to apply to both subs by the same amount right? Thanks!
Thanks for watching! To answer your questions: 1) you should be fine with what Audyssey set for the level. If you want, you can verify that the subwoofer level matches the front left speaker using the tone generator and SPL meter in REW (I run through that in the video). If it doesn’t, you may want to adjust the trim levels then to match to your speakers. 2) you got it! Just add the same distance to each sub. You can also use this method to make sure the subs are aligned with each before aligning them with your mains. Unfortunately I don’t have a receiver that has dual sub controls, which is part of the reason I got a MiniDSP. Hopefully in the future I can cover that in a video.
Your patience with all those test runs is amazing. Hands down the best tutorials out there. I need to find the time and motivation to do this some day soon. Thank you!!!
Thank you for the kind words. I probably spend way too much time testing things instead of, you know, actually enjoying the gear lol. But I enjoy the testing stuff almost as much so I can’t really complain.
@@HomeTheaterGamer yeah man. If that’s how you enjoy your gear, go for it. No different than playing games on easy mode. It’s meant to be fun. Have a great weekend!
No smoothing applied to any graphs in this video. When working with bass frequencies, I never apply smoothing for the graphs as they hide too much information.
It really does depend on multiple factors though. I wouldn’t say you should set to 110Hz by default, but only after doing measurements in your own room with your own speakers and looking for dips or issues at the crossover point should you consider changing it or raising it from the recommend starting point of 80Hz. I think that the kind of blanket statement of “set your crossover to 80Hz because it’s the best” (or whatever version of that is out there) is pretty bad advice. It’s a great starting point mind you but it can also create issues with certain rooms and speaker/sub combos.
If you have your Denon/Marantz connected to the same network, it should show up under the “Network” tab in Windows 10, and double clicking it will open the web interface if your receiver supports it. You can also access it by typing the IP address of your receiver into the browser you use.
So you recommend getting the crossover frequency right first then playing with the subwoofer distance? As opposed to sub distance first, then tweak crossover frequency? Like many others I never messed with the crossover frequency. My response looked a lot better after the sub distance tweak, but not nearly as good as I hoped. Maybe I'm a candidate for adjusting the crossover frequency?
Also a follow up question. I assume that these tweaks (crossover frequency/sub distance) should be done after room correction (Audyssey MultEQ XT32 in my case)? Hopefully since that will save me some time.
There is a slightly faster way to do this instead of guessing. At the lowest point of your crossover null play a test tone at that exact frequency and your decibel meter in REW should match what your reading showed I. Your measurement. Keep playing that test tone while adjusting your distance in real time. You should see your decibel meter rising in volume. Once it stops rising your distance should be set for your crossover point. Rerun your sweep to verify and you should be done. 👍🏾.
@JavonDGreen I just tried this out a couple of days ago, and why have I never done this before? It saved me so much time that I will be making a video about it and giving you a shout out for bringing it up. THANK YOU!
@@HomeTheaterGamer haha perfect Man. So glad that it helped. Keep making awesome content my friend.
Should PIN this comment to the top. Great video!
Lowest point of the crossover null meaning 100hz if my crossover is set to 100hz? Or the lowest point in any frequency under 100hz??
@@AlessandroMartinello-vc5rg It should mean, after you have set your crossovers, wherever your null (lowest point) is, somewhere near or at the crossover, you would set REW to output at that frequency and then go and make the distance adjustments trying to remove that null. The lowest point may not be right at the crossover because the crossover is not a hard cliff but a gradual decline.
You should do a guide on checking each speakers frequency response with Audyssey turned off to understand why Audyssey set the roll off point for the crossovers. My M&K 750's are rated down to 80 hz, but Audyssey set them to 150 hz.
The problem is, not everyone has the tech you do. Rew, mini DSP. You’re missing a huge audience. Does no good to watch this.
I understand not everyone has the tech I do but I was upfront about what you’d need in the very beginning of the video. I’d like to point out that you don’t need a miniDSP for this type of thing. This video was also not intended to reach a massive audience, and I’m just one guy doing this by myself trying to help people with the stuff I’ve learned. This video is also free and I have many more like it.
The real issue is: there isn’t an easy and accurate way to do what I’m doing in this video BY EAR. You may get lucky, but you won’t have any data to back it up. I would absolutely recommend sticking with an 80Hz crossover if you don’t have access or the funds for a measurement microphone (provided you already have a laptop).
Brad, it's clear that you're passionate about home theater, always looking to learn more and squeeze more performance out of your equipment. Enjoy how u take info that's already out there--always giving credit of course!--and make it your own. Your teaching style's great and your editing/presentation is fun. Looking forward to enjoying more of your content, big fella.
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching and commenting!
wow, I never realized there is a big difference when just changing distance settings. Cheers!
Great vid man, how do you get into your receiver settings from web browser,? Or is that an app?
I thank you very much for this video. Your process worked perfectly for me. I have tried, many times, over 2 years or so to get my subwoofers integrated with the other 5 channels--just couldn't seem to be impressed. My room is a great room 17 ft X 37 ft X well over 12 ft high (I am using about 17ft X 28 ft for the home theater setup). I am using two HSU VTF-15h MK2 subs, and Front Left and Right are Goldenear Triton One speakers. So, I am trying to integrate ported with sealed! Thanks to this video, I did just that this morning, and I feel like I just bought a new system!!!! Also, I centered the home theater on the 28 ft wall since the short wall has a huge window in the middle--this wall has the HSU subs. I use this system for stereo also, and what a difference after this setup process! Now I fully understand what is meant by bass punch, and pant leg flapping--WOW! (Note: I did the center channel and surrounds also)
Just always use LFE+Main setting with mains as full range, this will always give you much flatter response with a single run of Audyssey. Using LFE and setting crossovers on mains will almost guarantee you these headaches with nulls. BTW setting crossover so high to 100+ Hz will make you "hear" the subwoofer, not usually a good idea.
Hi, I don't think you should touch distance at all. Because it sets the delay of the speakers, in this instance the subwoofer. This way sub will be off as the audyssey set it up for the listening position. You may get flatter response, but messing up in time domain.
Sometimes Audyssey does get this wrong, especially if you have multiple subwoofers and/or are using a MiniDSP. If you have a dip at and around your crossover point, then more than likely your subs and main speakers aren’t aligned properly and Audyssey couldn’t get it quite right. Close, but not right on the money.
I found 110Hz best for my system and room too. Even though 110Hz seems to go against others advise, it is what it is.
Thanks for your help! Liked and Subscribed.
Brad, I know this is an older video, but I am having an odd thing happen when I adjust my crossovers in my sub and or mains in my Denon 8500H. I am not getting any different response in REW. My graph looks almost identical to the one before, not varied like yours or Home Theater Guru's. Any idea why that might be?
Great video, sorted my sub issues but unfortunately I've come across an issue, in asio4all I cannot see or find my avr in output. Any idea? ASIO control panel won't open either....using a umm-6
Still prefer using the alignment tool in REW, much more granular especially for the OCD minded. But this method is easier for most people, also tried and true tested, just more time consuming.
P.S - for those crying about the 80hz golden rule, holy chalice - ye shall not change the crossover to anything else, do know that when THX "established" that standard they tested in a perfect rectangle room, sized in a way where the boundaries weren't affecting the 80hz region. Your room IS NOT a perfect rectangle unless you designed and built it from the ground up in the first place, with the proper measurements. That's why 80hz as a golden rule is outdated.
Is it possible to take 10cm away from distance for all other speakers than the subwoofers to make a wider sweet spot?
How would this process change if your receiver only has one sub out and you've daisy chained two subwoofers in opposite corners of the room. The front right sub is~ 9’ and the rear left is ~10’ from the listening poistion. Thank you.
Do you have any merch? You need a shirt that says "I'm gon' go ahead.."
Haha. Now that may not be a bad idea.
When u first tested & set the L to -75 you didn't match the R & sub. Then when u took the reading u used L+R. Did u forget to do the other 2 or you only need to set the L to -75? Thanks
It is still 20db difference, not much smoothing, it is only the scale that it makes it looking good.
Great video again...quick question. Did you measure only in 1 spot? Or did you measure also for ALL the seats?
Sir small doubt?
Which calibration toolkit best?
And which software best?
Rew or Rta?
Way too complicated for a beginner like myself
Problem solved! (operator error) I ensured a factory reset to MiniDSP, factory reset to the Denon AVR, ran Audyssey, then followed your great instructions for using MiniDSP, and voila! My main problem was trying too many things at once. Originally, I used both subwoofer outs ( they are independent of each other) on the AVR: One for the HSU subs, and one for the Triton LFE inputs. Additionally, I was reading the MiniDSP tutorials, and also the tutorial without MiniDSP. So, yeah, I regrouped and all is well now. Thank you for the help.
Trust me when I say I know all about operator error haha. My wife and I watched a movie recently and I only realized after the fact that my crossovers were still set at 250Hz from doing some measurements earlier that day. I had thought things sounded a bit off and figured it was the audio mix, but I was so tired that I didn’t bother checking. Whoops!
Whats your LFE crossover setting?
Thank you for all your time and effort.
Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment. It’s much appreciated.
REW CAN do Atmos, you just have to feed the signal to the top speakers and then, through ASIO if I am not wrong, you can measure and adjust ATMOS speakers as well.
You’re correct. It can now through various ways (such as loading a sweep file encoded in Atmos). To my knowledge, that wasn’t the case back in August of 2021 when I released this video.
Can you explain the switch from java to ASIO in the video? When should I be using each one when testing/tweaking? What is the difference? Really enjoying your videos as I learn how to use REW to improve my sound, thank you!
Java only allows L and R outputs. ASIO allows multichannel output which is needed for C, LFE, and surround channels.
I’m able to use all 7.1 with Java. Do you think this has to do with the laptop settings?
Just upgraded from DENON x1500h to x4800h. Got a mic and REW and trying to set everything up correct.
So got the crossover point nearly perfect until I realized I was only using the R speaker… so set to L+R and issues again. So started from scratch and got some improvement but not nearly as good as before. Then I went to run the sweep with my center giving new crossover point and sub delay… looked bad…
Any advice? Seems to can’t get both L+R to look good at same time as center. My room doesn’t have the best acoustics..
Why does the "add a foot" method help you decipher that you need to UP your crossover? I'm missing that jump. Also, doesn't changing the sub distance mess up your cohesion between speakers and sub?
recently got the mini dsp hd and now after this video, I question myself; do I really need a minidsp?.
Hello Brad, Thank you so much for this video. Bass output in AVR should be Main+LFE for this calibration?
Hi Brad,
Just wondering.., how did you get on with measurements when you moved into your new space?
Only popped into my head last night as I swapped my centre out for an upgraded speaker and still end up on 110Hx crossover like you to remove a null 😄
A bit old, but u explained it very well and learning us this stuff the properway.. but one question, and nobody seem to talk about, what impact has the distance setting for the rest of the speakers in the whole setup.. u keep the "real" distance for those speaker or has it also influence for the crossovers?
I used this last night with a 2 sub setup and my Denon X3800. Both subs on the back wall of the listening space. I have 2 RSL's - a 10S mkii and a 12S. Audyssey gets it pretty spot on for the 12S but the 10S was way off!! I also dinked with the phase - ended up having 1 at 0º and the other at 180º which made a big difference.
Anyway - thanks for making these easy to follow (short!!) youtubes. I had bought the UMIK-1 but had been hesitant to use it as it seemed pretty intimidating at first. You're demystifying it for me.
I know this is a year old video, but trying REW and really like your channel, I have an Arcam 390, but I can only set a general crossover, not for idividual speakers, no matter what I try I cannot get a flat-ish line, also using output L=R doesn't seem to use the sub, am I doing something wrong??
I'm coming to this video a couple of years late, but I'm curious to know why the alignment tool was not helpful. In my experience this past weekend, the predicted response from the alignment tool matches the measured response perfectly, once I figured out which direction to go. To "add" delay to the left sub, I had to either reduce the distance in the processor or add distance to the right sub. On the surface, it's a little counterintuitive, but it makes sense once you think about it.
Great stuff Brad! These videos should be called "How to make Audyssey not suck", lol. Seriously though, Audyssey should be getting this right on its own, pretty disappointing that it doesn't and we have to go through the manual tweaks.
Also, changing distance to achieve a flatter response, wouldn't this also have adverse effects on the time alignment of the bass to your mains potentially causing bass to hit out of sync with the other speakers?
Hello greetings to all. I am translating, sorry for the errors, I have the rew program installed on my laptop, but the program does not recognize my RX-A2060 receiver. What to do in this case?
Hello, I'm new to the home theater set up and need major help for adjusting dual subs and klupsch ultra 2 set up. Where can I contact to somebody to do the speaker alignment for me? I'm in California
This is an amazing video. How would you think about this process with 2 subs?
So I’m trying this technique and for some reason I’m getting a severe drop off in output starting at 100hz when trying this method using Java. I’ve been doing measurements using Asio for a while now getting a good response down to 10hz so I’m confused as to why this is happening with Java. I’ve tried using the stereo and Dolby surround options with the same result. Two subs are crossed at 80hz with mains in my Marantz AVR. Why is my output plummeting from 100hz and down using Java? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Brad I know there is a follow up vid to this that I'm about to watch but it's clear that a lot of time and effort went into this. As someone that's just got a UMIK 1 and installed REW this vid and the next are going to be fantastic for me to get the feet wet so to speak. Truly fantastic work. Cheers!
Hey man please little help i have a monolith 15 sub and i cant find the best spot to my room i try them all but i have a big null in 45hz and some other frequencys i run audyssey i dont have microphone umik1 for example or mini dsp you believe if i took microphone umik 1 and mini dsp to can make some difference to the curve in few months im gonna buy a second one sub but for now what can i do also you have facebook to explain me better there??? Thank you and im waiting your help🙏🙏🙏🙏
I have a subwoofer connected directly to my motherboard analog 5.1 outputs. Is there a way to set this subwoofer distance inside Windows?
Thank you, but your explanation is very fast and those of us who don't speak English can't follow you, you should do this same class more slowly in two or three videos.
Great Video!! Does this work with only one Sub or will it work with multiple subs and would you have to shut them down and measure one at a time?
I really love this video, it is perfect understandable. Precisely explained. Thanks a lot.
hey.,
How did I get my avr settings into my PC's Google Chrome. Like what you got in video.
Buddy please little help i have dual subs and i run aydysey and i want to tell me how to calibrate the dbs on subs i have to raise up the gain ffrom back the sub or ffrom receiver can yyou tell me exactly what ii have to do?
Sorry for the newbie question but how do you get that “remote into” access into your AVR? Looks different than the Audyssey App I use
Has anyone else performed this method of integration, and then reinstall and try to tweak further via MiniDSP? I had been using the 2X4HD previous to this setup. I hooked it up after manual integration and found a large suckout around 32hz that did not exist before. I checked to make sure the MiniDSP did not have any settings (delays, PEQ, etc) loaded. Anyway, I tried, with no success to better the manual measurements previously rendered without the aid of MiniDSP, and decided to leave it the way I had previously tweaked per this video. Maybe the cables from sub out to the MiniDSP gave extra delay? Help/suggestions are welcome!
That’s really interesting. I have not had this happen. Have you tried going to a clean configuration in the MiniDSP software? I would start there to troubleshoot issues. Maybe try resetting the loaded config to default, then making sides the crossovers are bypassed on echo channel in the MiniDSP. See if you still have the issue.
Hi! Should i run Dirac on my processor first and then make adjustments for my subs on mini dsp or vice versa? Thanks!
At 3:00 into the video you mentioned pointing your mic up at the ceiling... but what if the ceiling is not normal? I have a sloping or vaulted ceiling that starts at about 8ft in height at the back of the room and slopes up to 15ft at the front. How should the mic be placed in a room like that???
Good video. Been using REW for a year but just installed Asio. Waiting to calibrate my system until I get a few new acoustic panels I purchased. Could you run a sweep with each channel and the subs in the same way one does with the LR for alignment?
Can I also do this procedure with the front, center speakers?
Great video. That’s a beautiful subwoofer response graph.
Great vid… I’m sure you follow the same process for multiple subs
I had to set mine to 110. Huge null at 90
One thing to point out is that even setting crossover at the receiver it's not a hard crossover it's a very soft one
These videos keep on giving. I appreciate not assuming the audience knows anything. Seriously. I had my REW spl meter set to Z and I had no idea why adjusting trims on my speakers was doing nothing (I have to exit out of the menu first). 10/10 video.
so in summary subs distance first then find crossover?
Why when you check the levels use just L and not L+R?
Hi
, would you set you these floorstanders to 40hz if it had these specs:
Frequency Response (+/- 3 dB): 44Hz - 22kHz, Nominal Impedance: 6ohm, Sensitivity: 92dB
Q acoustic 3050 Floorstanding
Marantz 6007 av receiver
Thanks
I probably wouldn’t. A good rule of thumb is to set the crossover 10-20Hz higher than what the speaker is rated for, as a starting point anyway. So for you, I’d maybe start at a 60Hz crossover and see if you get good response using the method in this video. If you can’t, you’ll more than likely need to raise it.
Hello Brad Just one question... I have a pair of main Goldenear Triton which comes each one with powered amplified subwoofers 1,600 watts with lfe inputs built in. This model manuals is very clear that you set them up as Large speakers and the option of connecting LFE cable from sub preout on avr to the internal lfe input on the main speakers. How do I get LFE signal to calibrate and align lfe responses if manual is already telling me to setup mains as Large speakers? Thanks.... The only way I can think of is turning on the option on AVR that says LFE+Mains. 🤔🤔 I also have 2 extra on each side of room Goldenear Super Subs XXL and love the integration of all 4 powered subwoofers all together
Hopefully, you have already sorted this situation. I have a similar setup with Triton One mains, and I am using two separate subwoofers (connected to AVR LFE output via MiniDsp 2X4HD). Problem: with the Tritons placed out in the room (front baffles 57 inches from the front wall), the bass produced is not ideal (and, you can adjust the bass level with a control on the back of each Triton). When you compound this by two separate subwoofers, I discovered some dropouts in the bass region using REW. My solution, to date, was to set the Tritons as Small in the AVR (Denon X3300W), and crossover (LFE) to the separate Subwoofers, and not send LFE output separately to the Triton Towers. I truly believe the home theater and stereo setups should be totally separate regardless of what speakers you use for Front left and right. Since I am not willing to separate the two items, compromises have to be made. In any event I certainly would not use LFE + Main setting in the AVR. Just my considered opinion. Hope this is helpful to you.
Ya spelled BASS wrong (bottom right intro). Oopsie. I say we petition to have it spelled that way anyway.
Oopsie you're an idiot. Base Measurement = the measurement before any corrections are done. BTW you spelled you wrong it's not Ya.
I can’t wait to try this out with my system
Brad, awesome video! I do have a question...in your video to get a flatter response on your sub you adjusted your distances but on your main speakers you only adjusted crossovers. Wouldn't adjusting those distances also help?
Thanks for commenting! In theory, yes, it could help, but it would also throw off the time alignment of the front left and right channels with all the other speakers in your system. If you just have stereo or 2.1 channel setup, then it probably wouldn't really be noticeable, but in a multichannel setup I wouldn't suggest adjusting those distances as you want each speakers sound arriving at your ears at the right time (sub distance is a bit different which is why it's ok to make small adjustments to it).
Brad, I used REW to help me with my dual El Cheapo subs, but I could not get rid of the major 80hz dip. I ran an 80hz tone and found that the problem is my couch! The soft couch sucks up the 80hz tone so much that I couldn't hear the tone while sitting back, but when I moved forward the edge of the seat the 80hz tone was loud. I moved the couch ahead two feet and I had the same outcome. I never considered the this issue could be so pronounced. DANG!
Weird. I know furniture can have an impact on frequency response, but that’s kind of odd. What are your crossovers set at for your main speakers?
@@HomeTheaterGamer During all of my REW work I placed my UMIK-1 on a mic stand near my seated ear position. Next time I'll try it both at ear position and just ahead of the couch seat cushion at ear height. As far as the crossovers go, I got the best response last time at 120 for the L&R, 90 center, 80 surround and 100 ceiling.
I'm going to play several test tone frequencies and listen to hear where in the room each one is the loudest. That should be very interesting. I hope you will try it also.
Thanks for your replies to my postings. Have a great day.
Excellent video and perfect timing as I was literally just following your other guides earlier today as I just got a UMIK-1. Questions: 1) After running Audyssey do I need to bring my sub trim levels back up to “0” in order to take my REW measurements? Or do I leave the sub trim levels at the level Audyssey set and just bring up the master volume on the AVR until I get a reading of 75db? 2) Since I have dual subs connected to the AVR, any distance adjustments I make have to apply to both subs by the same amount right? Thanks!
Thanks for watching! To answer your questions:
1) you should be fine with what Audyssey set for the level. If you want, you can verify that the subwoofer level matches the front left speaker using the tone generator and SPL meter in REW (I run through that in the video). If it doesn’t, you may want to adjust the trim levels then to match to your speakers.
2) you got it! Just add the same distance to each sub. You can also use this method to make sure the subs are aligned with each before aligning them with your mains. Unfortunately I don’t have a receiver that has dual sub controls, which is part of the reason I got a MiniDSP. Hopefully in the future I can cover that in a video.
Your patience with all those test runs is amazing. Hands down the best tutorials out there. I need to find the time and motivation to do this some day soon. Thank you!!!
Thank you for the kind words. I probably spend way too much time testing things instead of, you know, actually enjoying the gear lol. But I enjoy the testing stuff almost as much so I can’t really complain.
@@HomeTheaterGamer yeah man. If that’s how you enjoy your gear, go for it. No different than playing games on easy mode. It’s meant to be fun. Have a great weekend!
What smoothing applied in graphs ?
No smoothing applied to any graphs in this video. When working with bass frequencies, I never apply smoothing for the graphs as they hide too much information.
Thanks man. Good info.
Thank you for watching. Glad it was helpful!
You the first TH-camr that I see saying to set crossover from speakers to 110
It really does depend on multiple factors though. I wouldn’t say you should set to 110Hz by default, but only after doing measurements in your own room with your own speakers and looking for dips or issues at the crossover point should you consider changing it or raising it from the recommend starting point of 80Hz.
I think that the kind of blanket statement of “set your crossover to 80Hz because it’s the best” (or whatever version of that is out there) is pretty bad advice. It’s a great starting point mind you but it can also create issues with certain rooms and speaker/sub combos.
@@HomeTheaterGamer yeah all depends of your room thanks
Good info. How do you see your audyssey menu in your PC??
If you have your Denon/Marantz connected to the same network, it should show up under the “Network” tab in Windows 10, and double clicking it will open the web interface if your receiver supports it. You can also access it by typing the IP address of your receiver into the browser you use.
@@HomeTheaterGamer Thanks a lot
@@HomeTheaterGamer got it bro, thanks a lot
So you recommend getting the crossover frequency right first then playing with the subwoofer distance? As opposed to sub distance first, then tweak crossover frequency? Like many others I never messed with the crossover frequency. My response looked a lot better after the sub distance tweak, but not nearly as good as I hoped. Maybe I'm a candidate for adjusting the crossover frequency?
Also a follow up question. I assume that these tweaks (crossover frequency/sub distance) should be done after room correction (Audyssey MultEQ XT32 in my case)? Hopefully since that will save me some time.
Why are you talking fast?? This is not a good teaching method!