Great information, I have same exact saw, and purchased it for 75 bucks a few years ago. I'm glad to see these saws are finding a purpose, I wasn't sure in a new future shop design I'd keep it, but now I see a definite reason for its use.
I have two radial arm saws in my shop - both are older Craftsman saws. I use one specifically for dado cuts, and the other to make wider cross cuts than my 12" miter saw can handle. I do NOT use either of the radial arm saws for anything other than dados, and cross cuts. Absolutely love my radial arm saws!
You are right. There are 30 of them for sale in my city right now, for $35 to $200.They are in excellent condition, and the owners absolutely hate them and want them gone. I bought the exact same saw as yours but mine is a 1978 model. But I can tell by looking at it, it's the exact same saw.
I have this exact saw and I need some help. The nut and the plastic bevel gear fell off of the threaded, shaft elevating rod when I was attempting to raise the blade. Can you remember how I get that thread rod to come back down far enough so I can thread the nut back onto it. Presently, the rod it almost flush to the surface, and I cannot get the nut onto it. Thanks!
Just bought an old cast iron de Walt miter saw for this purpose. I don't have all the guards and kickback stuff. The weight of the thing should help with it not taking off. Anything you would try and add to protect my booger flickers?
Congratulations! I am hesitant to modify a power tool, even to put guards on it. There are some ideas out there though: i590.photobucket.com/albums/ss349/FDenny_2009/IMG_1375Small.jpg www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachments/100_1037-jpg.39893/ At the very least I would paint a red strip on either side of where the blade land on the table as a visual reminder to keep your digits away from the blade.
The guard on that saw is outstanding. Basically, you can't cut your fingers off with that guard. Which is why they mailed that guard to thousands of people for free, as part of the lawsuit and recall. The guard "pushes" your fingers out of the way because it is a "zero clearance" guard where no object can get underneath it, since it's designed to "plow" your fingers out of the way, rather than suck them under the guard. Unless you are doing bevels or advanced rip cutting, which might involve unknown variables, like a kickback. But in regular crosscutting, from what I've seen, that guard is extremely effective. The question is, how annoying is that guard when you're actually trying to work with the saw daily?
Just bought a radio arm saw today 30 bucks it’s rough but I put WD-40 on everything and everything is working it’s a Dewalt 740 having trouble finding out how far out the fence should be how much room do I need when the Salz parked do you know what I mean I’m thinking 6 1/2 7 inches and then take the rest of that sheet of 2 x 4‘ plywood because what is expensive right now put the remaining 17 1/2 inches out front to make the rest of my table.
@@joemc111 park the saw all the way back with a blade on it. Take a small square from the front of the saw and slide it back until it touches the blade. Add 1/2 inch (one half inch). This should be enough to have a 2" (two inch) board against the fence and still have blade clearance. That is how my fence is set. I actually use a series of fences so that I can move one or more of them for ripping and other cuts. Have a BLESSED DAY.🇺🇸😎
@@joemc111 Maybe you could rip the table top and put a piano hinge on the bottom of it so you can fold it up when not in use. Just a thought. Of course the base is almost that deep front to back anyway. I lucked out and have a huge shop that's not attached to the house. I can't imagine trying to set up one of these in a single car garage.🤔
@@c.blakerockhart1128 yes a one car garage not big enough. Then to add more stuff this year I bought a generator and have 6 5 gallon gas cans for Hurricane season. I live in Dunedin Florida near Tampa we’re right on the coast and if you’re watching the weather channel you can see how close I am to that damn storm.
Matt, you level the table frame by rotating the motor horizontal and with the arbor you check for level, then you screw on the table top. Nice buy.... good luck.
Probably. I had an auto focus issue with my camera and had a couple videos that I shot complete and just had to go with the footage that I had already shot.
![ILLSLICK - THE KING'S LANDING [Freestyle]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/feIJJnNkTfk/mqdefault.jpg)
Great information, I have same exact saw, and purchased it for 75 bucks a few years ago. I'm glad to see these saws are finding a purpose, I wasn't sure in a new future shop design I'd keep it, but now I see a definite reason for its use.
I have two radial arm saws in my shop - both are older Craftsman saws. I use one specifically for dado cuts, and the other to make wider cross cuts than my 12" miter saw can handle. I do NOT use either of the radial arm saws for anything other than dados, and cross cuts. Absolutely love my radial arm saws!
You are right. There are 30 of them for sale in my city right now, for $35 to $200.They are in excellent condition, and the owners absolutely hate them and want them gone. I bought the exact same saw as yours but mine is a 1978 model. But I can tell by looking at it, it's the exact same saw.
Good choice for a dado saw
My thoughts exactly dedicated dado machine got mine about 2 weeks ago haven’t got it set up yet thanks for sharing
Many thanks for this video buddy.
I got a B&D 7740 and dedicated it to a dado set and a Corob molding head.
Fun!!!
well done....love my Radial Arm Saw Dewalts....
Thank you!
Congrats!!
I have this exact saw and I need some help. The nut and the plastic bevel gear fell off of the threaded, shaft elevating rod when I was attempting to raise the blade. Can you remember how I get that thread rod to come back down far enough so I can thread the nut back onto it. Presently, the rod it almost flush to the surface, and I cannot get the nut onto it. Thanks!
I don't. Other than taking the bed off and hand cranking the shaft until the treads showed and you were able to get the nut on. Best of luck!
Perfect
Just bought an old cast iron de Walt miter saw for this purpose. I don't have all the guards and kickback stuff. The weight of the thing should help with it not taking off. Anything you would try and add to protect my booger flickers?
Congratulations! I am hesitant to modify a power tool, even to put guards on it. There are some ideas out there though:
i590.photobucket.com/albums/ss349/FDenny_2009/IMG_1375Small.jpg
www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachments/100_1037-jpg.39893/
At the very least I would paint a red strip on either side of where the blade land on the table as a visual reminder to keep your digits away from the blade.
Maybe gota buy two radial arm saws
The guard on that saw is outstanding. Basically, you can't cut your fingers off with that guard. Which is why they mailed that guard to thousands of people for free, as part of the lawsuit and recall. The guard "pushes" your fingers out of the way because it is a "zero clearance" guard where no object can get underneath it, since it's designed to "plow" your fingers out of the way, rather than suck them under the guard. Unless you are doing bevels or advanced rip cutting, which might involve unknown variables, like a kickback. But in regular crosscutting, from what I've seen, that guard is extremely effective. The question is, how annoying is that guard when you're actually trying to work with the saw daily?
not annoying. moves as I slide it across the work. use Teflon lube to keep it from getting sticky.
Just bought a radio arm saw today 30 bucks it’s rough but I put WD-40 on everything and everything is working it’s a Dewalt 740 having trouble finding out how far out the fence should be how much room do I need when the Salz parked do you know what I mean I’m thinking 6 1/2 7 inches and then take the rest of that sheet of 2 x 4‘ plywood because what is expensive right now put the remaining 17 1/2 inches out front to make the rest of my table.
I am in Florida but on Craigslist in Los Angeles you can put a pick a nice one up for 100 bucks.
@@joemc111 park the saw all the way back with a blade on it. Take a small square from the front of the saw and slide it back until it touches the blade. Add 1/2 inch (one half inch). This should be enough to have a 2" (two inch) board against the fence and still have blade clearance. That is how my fence is set. I actually use a series of fences so that I can move one or more of them for ripping and other cuts. Have a BLESSED DAY.🇺🇸😎
@@c.blakerockhart1128 thanks, I did something like you said. After I added the new table 48 inches, I don’t have much room in my one car garage.
@@joemc111 Maybe you could rip the table top and put a piano hinge on the bottom of it so you can fold it up when not in use. Just a thought. Of course the base is almost that deep front to back anyway. I lucked out and have a huge shop that's not attached to the house. I can't imagine trying to set up one of these in a single car garage.🤔
@@c.blakerockhart1128 yes a one car garage not big enough. Then to add more stuff this year I bought a generator and have 6 5 gallon gas cans for Hurricane season. I live in Dunedin Florida near Tampa we’re right on the coast and if you’re watching the weather channel you can see how close I am to that damn storm.
I might have missed it, what dado saw blade are you using?
I invested in a set of Forest Blades.
Suprized there was no actual demo
I used in the 4-5 videos after - the bookshelf video for sure
Matt, you level the table frame by rotating the motor horizontal and with the arbor you check for level, then you screw on the table top. Nice buy.... good luck.
Are you a manager at a home depot?
No.
@@MattofManyTrades lol you totally look like a guy at my local store
@@ryananthony4840 That is funny. I spend a LOT of time at Home Depot, but not an employee.
Maybe should think dust
Is it just me or is everything out of focus? Good effort though.
Probably. I had an auto focus issue with my camera and had a couple videos that I shot complete and just had to go with the footage that I had already shot.