Another great video/ You need to be connecting with some of the more viewed youtubers, because your content is better than a lot of theirs, and you definitely deserve a lot more eyeballs on your videos. There seems to be some cliques of content creators who help pump each others' content.
On a few rare occasions, I find I've made a sharp image.... accidentally. I think I need to keep your points in mind, slow down a bit, make sure I've got the settings proper.... THEN make the shot. Maybe then those sharper images will come around more often. Thanks. Make me think about the process.
This was another excellent video. I've been shooting for 50+ years of film and now digital and your's is the VERY BEST explanation of sharpness I've ever listened to. You are a very good teacher with photos that further explain what you are saying. For me you prove the rule: If I want to be a better photographer? Seek out photographers who shoot better than me. Easy advice since I found your channel. Of course I don't have your breathtaking views but that's ok. I get to see what you see through your photographs. Thanks for sharing, always learn something new watching you. It's like a mini-course. Keep doing what you are doing.
You may have mentioned this and my apologies if so (I'm watching after eating Sunday lunch and suffering from food coma LOL). If your scene is all at infinity, take advantage of the luxury of your lens' sharpest aperture range. Even though you' re focusing far into the distance, there's no DOF issues (as you mentioned) so open up to about three stops above widest. On a typical f/4 lens that might be f/5.6 to f/8 or so, where it's inherently sharpest. Plus you'll gain more light for a faster shutter.
One of the best videos I’ve seen. So many discussions of speed and aperture are too basic and fail to mention other factors such as distance and focal length. Took me a while to realize that even 6.3 or 7.1 may not keep the entire image sharp. Part of it may have to do with the type of photography they specialize in. I think portrait photographers sometimes forget that we don’t always want a shallow depth of field.
Another tip that helps me if I’m in a scenario where I don’t have a tripod/ time to set up one. If you’re going to have something out of focus it will look better if it looks like you intentionally have it out of focus. Open up to F4 and really blur the foreground (especially if you’re shooting through the grass). I try to tell myself that even though I do get caught up in the sharpness thing all too often myself. I’ve talked myself into upgrading to the A7RV when I can just for the ease of focus bracketing xD. It’s a struggle. I appreciate this video William!
Good sound insights there Will. Especially that last bit. Sometimes if we get hung up on it all, we lose the fun, play and creativity of photography which is what many of us really enjoy.
Good job Bill. People need to answer a couple of questions at the outset: who is your target audience, and, how are you going to display your images. If you primarily make exposures that will be viewed online, then there is no need to shell out countless dollars for equipment you don’t need. I have great images printed as 24x36” that were made with a point and shoot camera…on a tripod. Follow Bill’s recommendations and you might be surprised how well your existing equipment will do the job for you. PS: a tripod is also a discipline tool…it makes you stop and think in this ‘snap and go’ smartphone world. Think quality, not quantity. And devote more time to practising.
Great practical advice Will and as always very well explained. In this video there were stunning images that I don't believe that you have shown in other videos before.
Even though it's a short video they are always helpful to the Amateur so many thanks William for sharing that with us. Unfortunately I'm one of those shaky people so the tripod is my best mate, I do hand hold but when I can get a post or tree to lean against/support. the images you showed during the helpful info were just brilliant. Look forward to next week.
Good discussion about sharpness/focus. There are many examples of excellent images that are not sharp everywhere in the image. If the artist (photographer) is wanting the viewer to focus on a particular subject in the image having other areas a bit (or even a lot) out of focus can help force the viewer to ‘focus’ on the intended subject.
Thanks mate. Yes, I find that works particularly well for commercial photography, portraits etc. But even then, you still need to right settings to make sure what you choose to focus on is actually in focus. In the landscape I personally like an infinite DOF. But of course, it's completely subjective. Cheers.
If you are just shooting for fun don't get obsessed with sharpness. If it's a job, then perfect technical quality in the files will be expected. Things get more complicated when you have to shoot in harsh light/mid-day conditions and have to use ND filters and so on. On the other end, low light conditions bring challenges of their own. Focus stacking and focus breathing can also give you a headache. Get to know your gear first, your camera and sensor, and then your lenses. Do a lot of testing to see how it behaves in different conditions and scenarios. Once you understand the technical side, you can move on to the creative part, like composition and shaping the light etc.
Great video and advice. My biggest challenge is when using the 100-400 and I can literally see it swaying around when Im trying to keep it still enough to take a photo. I'll have to try the lean on something to improve that.
Make sure the stabilisation is turned on, on the lens. Mode 1 for static shots. But yeah, gotta make sure you are extra secure if it is low light and shutter speed is getting low.
10min and 49seconds of fantastic advice - I suffered with the ol' "Shakey Shakey" hands (🤣) but watching one of your videos inspired me to practice how slow I can go with my shutter and I am proud to say I can get to 1/4....kinda...barely... sometimes 🙄🤦♂️🤣...but I'm making progress so thank you 😁🙏 Great video 📸
@@WilliamPatinoPhotography the best thing that has happened to my photography is finding your channel (and Vero) and it's not just because of your skills (which are (*insert swear word*) insane 🤘📸)...but it is your honesty and how you ensure you make the viewer feel like they can achieve whatever you are teaching them too .. with practice 😉😁. So my support is the very least I can give #sograteful 🙏📸
Isnt there a case that the background doesnt have to be pin sharp? We naturally view things with a narrow depth of field so having everything pin sharp is not ultra important? It may look more realistic having a slight gradient? Cheers
The contrast and saturation will be reduced on anything far off in the distance (atmospheric perspective) but it should still be 'in focus' in my opinion. Just like in the real world when you look far away, it should not be out of focus, just less contrast and colour.
Hi Will & hello from Oz, thanks for another easy to understand & precise video. Due to my age & feeling the weight of my Canon glass etc I've recently switched to the OM system so I'm curious to ask if your general guide to focal length + shutter speed would be applicable to micro four thirds. So much is made of the comparable focal length of micro 4/3 to full frame so I'm wondering if that's something to take into consideration with your general guide. So far, I've had no issues with the OM's results, but curiosity was getting the better of me. Cheers from Oz
Hey mate. With that system you can break the guideline more than any other, because the sensor is so small, the IBIS can keep it even steadier. So feel free to definitely experiment with going quite slow. I've had clients where we've easily pulled off 2 second exposures on the wide angles. All the best with it :)
Another great video/ You need to be connecting with some of the more viewed youtubers, because your content is better than a lot of theirs, and you definitely deserve a lot more eyeballs on your videos. There seems to be some cliques of content creators who help pump each others' content.
On a few rare occasions, I find I've made a sharp image.... accidentally. I think I need to keep your points in mind, slow down a bit, make sure I've got the settings proper.... THEN make the shot. Maybe then those sharper images will come around more often. Thanks. Make me think about the process.
This was another excellent video. I've been shooting for 50+ years of film and now digital and your's is the VERY BEST explanation of sharpness I've ever listened to. You are a very good teacher with photos that further explain what you are saying. For me you prove the rule: If I want to be a better photographer? Seek out photographers who shoot better than me. Easy advice since I found your channel. Of course I don't have your breathtaking views but that's ok. I get to see what you see through your photographs. Thanks for sharing, always learn something new watching you. It's like a mini-course. Keep doing what you are doing.
Robert, thank you so much for your kind and supportive comment. It really means more than you know. Much appreciated mate 🙏🏻
You may have mentioned this and my apologies if so (I'm watching after eating Sunday lunch and suffering from food coma LOL). If your scene is all at infinity, take advantage of the luxury of your lens' sharpest aperture range. Even though you' re focusing far into the distance, there's no DOF issues (as you mentioned) so open up to about three stops above widest. On a typical f/4 lens that might be f/5.6 to f/8 or so, where it's inherently sharpest. Plus you'll gain more light for a faster shutter.
Yes, exactly. When you have the choice, might as well use the sharpest aperture for your given lens :)
One of the best videos I’ve seen. So many discussions of speed and aperture are too basic and fail to mention other factors such as distance and focal length. Took me a while to realize that even 6.3 or 7.1 may not keep the entire image sharp. Part of it may have to do with the type of photography they specialize in. I think portrait photographers sometimes forget that we don’t always want a shallow depth of field.
Thanks so much :)
You have explained this so well, many fail to talk about dof and appropriate shutter speeds. Thank you so much 👏
Thank you 🙏🏻
Another good video, you are a very good teacher and I really appreciate your calm way of speaking it's just great.
I appreciate that, thank you 🙏🏻
Another tip that helps me if I’m in a scenario where I don’t have a tripod/ time to set up one.
If you’re going to have something out of focus it will look better if it looks like you intentionally have it out of focus. Open up to F4 and really blur the foreground (especially if you’re shooting through the grass).
I try to tell myself that even though I do get caught up in the sharpness thing all too often myself.
I’ve talked myself into upgrading to the A7RV when I can just for the ease of focus bracketing xD.
It’s a struggle. I appreciate this video William!
Nice and simplified 👍🙂
Good sound insights there Will. Especially that last bit. Sometimes if we get hung up on it all, we lose the fun, play and creativity of photography which is what many of us really enjoy.
Practice, practice, practice. Go out and use your camera as much as you can. You'll get better as you put the hours in, I promise.
Good job Bill. People need to answer a couple of questions at the outset: who is your target audience, and, how are you going to display your images. If you primarily make exposures that will be viewed online, then there is no need to shell out countless dollars for equipment you don’t need. I have great images printed as 24x36” that were made with a point and shoot camera…on a tripod. Follow Bill’s recommendations and you might be surprised how well your existing equipment will do the job for you. PS: a tripod is also a discipline tool…it makes you stop and think in this ‘snap and go’ smartphone world. Think quality, not quantity. And devote more time to practising.
Great practical advice Will and as always very well explained. In this video there were stunning images that I don't believe that you have shown in other videos before.
Thanks a lot mate :)
Great advice as always mate. Great to see Bombo in the thumb, as well :)
Cheers mate 👊🏻💪🏼
Big help especially with where to focus, thanks Will
Excellent! I wish this video was out two years ago when I started getting serious about photography.
Thanks a lot mate
Thanks Man, great video. I will keep practicing at my DOF. It's the only way to learn it.
I luv your videos so much, you just make sense to me, I think I try to hard sometimes & just need to keep practicing & having fun ❤️🙏
Even though it's a short video they are always helpful to the Amateur so many thanks William for sharing that with us. Unfortunately I'm one of those shaky people so the tripod is my best mate, I do hand hold but when I can get a post or tree to lean against/support. the images you showed during the helpful info were just brilliant. Look forward to next week.
Thanks again my friend
Thank you for another informative video.
Cheers
My pleasure mate thank you
Good discussion about sharpness/focus.
There are many examples of excellent images that are not sharp everywhere in the image. If the artist (photographer) is wanting the viewer to focus on a particular subject in the image having other areas a bit (or even a lot) out of focus can help force the viewer to ‘focus’ on the intended subject.
Thanks mate. Yes, I find that works particularly well for commercial photography, portraits etc. But even then, you still need to right settings to make sure what you choose to focus on is actually in focus. In the landscape I personally like an infinite DOF. But of course, it's completely subjective. Cheers.
@@WilliamPatinoPhotography Absolutely.
Thanks, as always good tips.👍
Thank you 👊🏻
If you are just shooting for fun don't get obsessed with sharpness. If it's a job, then perfect technical quality in the files will be expected. Things get more complicated when you have to shoot in harsh light/mid-day conditions and have to use ND filters and so on. On the other end, low light conditions bring challenges of their own. Focus stacking and focus breathing can also give you a headache. Get to know your gear first, your camera and sensor, and then your lenses. Do a lot of testing to see how it behaves in different conditions and scenarios. Once you understand the technical side, you can move on to the creative part, like composition and shaping the light etc.
Great advice! Thank you sooo much!
You are so welcome!
Great video and advice. My biggest challenge is when using the 100-400 and I can literally see it swaying around when Im trying to keep it still enough to take a photo. I'll have to try the lean on something to improve that.
Make sure the stabilisation is turned on, on the lens. Mode 1 for static shots. But yeah, gotta make sure you are extra secure if it is low light and shutter speed is getting low.
10min and 49seconds of fantastic advice - I suffered with the ol' "Shakey Shakey" hands (🤣) but watching one of your videos inspired me to practice how slow I can go with my shutter and I am proud to say I can get to 1/4....kinda...barely... sometimes 🙄🤦♂️🤣...but I'm making progress so thank you 😁🙏
Great video 📸
Haha. Thanks Gary, glad you were able to make progress with it. Appreciate your support 💪🏼👊🏻
@@WilliamPatinoPhotography the best thing that has happened to my photography is finding your channel (and Vero) and it's not just because of your skills (which are (*insert swear word*) insane 🤘📸)...but it is your honesty and how you ensure you make the viewer feel like they can achieve whatever you are teaching them too .. with practice 😉😁.
So my support is the very least I can give #sograteful 🙏📸
@ about 9:09, telephoto or telescopic??!!!!
😂😂😂😂
Isnt there a case that the background doesnt have to be pin sharp? We naturally view things with a narrow depth of field so having everything pin sharp is not ultra important? It may look more realistic having a slight gradient? Cheers
The contrast and saturation will be reduced on anything far off in the distance (atmospheric perspective) but it should still be 'in focus' in my opinion. Just like in the real world when you look far away, it should not be out of focus, just less contrast and colour.
Hi Will & hello from Oz, thanks for another easy to understand & precise video.
Due to my age & feeling the weight of my Canon glass etc I've recently switched to the OM system so I'm curious to ask if your general guide to focal length + shutter speed would be applicable to micro four thirds.
So much is made of the comparable focal length of micro 4/3 to full frame so I'm wondering if that's something to take into consideration with your general guide.
So far, I've had no issues with the OM's results, but curiosity was getting the better of me.
Cheers from Oz
Hey mate. With that system you can break the guideline more than any other, because the sensor is so small, the IBIS can keep it even steadier. So feel free to definitely experiment with going quite slow. I've had clients where we've easily pulled off 2 second exposures on the wide angles. All the best with it :)