Creosote/wood tar formation has mostly to do with having a fairly low, smoldering fire and not with species of wood used for firewood. The vast majority of the volatiles in pine burn off in the fire itself as the wood is burning. Burning **GREEN** wood of **ANY** species can increase the formation of creosote/wood tar, because your fire doesn't burn as intensely while the fire is drying out the wood to get it to burn. And the best procedure to follow to cut down on creosote/wood tar formation is to start off the day with a good raging fire of dry wood. That will keep the vast majority of the buildup in your stove pipe burned off.
Morning Brock. I used to burn what i could get. I would pull downed trees from the side of the dirt roads and drag them to the house and process them. It helped keep the county roads clear and keep up my fire wood supply. And every year when it would get cold i would disconnect the flew from the stove vacuum out the top of the stove and clean the pipping. I only ever got about a half a coffee can of crud from it all. Granted it was only about 14ft straight up from top of stove but the top of it was waist high.
I grew up with wood heaters in our home. We only used pine to get the initial bed of coals, then fed it hard wood. At night before we went to bed, we would throw a large, unsplit, log in the stove. It would usually last almost all of the night, with the dampers shut way down. The hardwood makes a larger, longer lasting bed of caols. We also used used log dogs, which helps alot with venting and letting the fire breath.
My dad burned nothing but well seasoned hard wood in his Hot Blast wood furnace. When he got too old to fool with it i bought it off of him. That stove pipe was almost completely stopped up. Im really surprised he never had a chimney fire. The furnace was too big for his house and he was keeping the stove choked down too much. I have the same stove in tge barn, same pipe, chimney, everything. I burn pine and poplar lumber scraps and run it wide open and have never had a problem.
My grandfather always had a stack of black locust next to the stove. First fire of the day he loaded the firebox up with locust and then burned other species during the rest of the day. He said the heat generated by the locust cleaned the flue out 🤷 Probably his father and his grandfather and so on did the same. We never burned softwood, not because we were afraid of it, we just live in an area where hardwood is the majority of the woods. Good video 👍
Hello Brock. During the video, when you used your chainsaw, I watched as you pulled the start cord multiple times. Last month, I bought a Greenworks 60V battery saw, with an 18 inch bar, on sale. I was amazed by the power the saw had. The beauty is that, when I want to cut, I pick it up, press the trigger, and it jumps into action. The saw is well balanced and easy to use. When you replace your wood stove with a bigger unit, take a look at the Blaze King models. They use a catalytic combuster and are extremely efficient with long burn times, reducing wood consumption.
I personally like a catalytic converter on a stove for exactly those reasons, but you do have to be more careful with what you burn. You can poison them with high sap content wood, which is where the creosote formation comes from. And as far as I know (and I may be misinformed on this), all the stoves I've seen with catalytic converters >require< a blower when burning. Without that, the stove can get too hot and cause either a fracture in the metal or cause the catalytic converter itself to break. In the event a power failure, that could be an issue. If this isn't the case, I'd like to know that.
Ten years ago, I worked in a store that sold Blaze King wood stoves. People who owned one of these stoves told me that, for best results, they burned wood which had been dried for two years under shelter. Many of the customers said they had used their stove for more than 15 years. They also talked about the efficiency of the stoves and the extended burn times. A few times, when I was educating a prospective customer about the features and benefits of a Blaze King stove, a Blaze King owner would step in, add more information, based on their experience and actually make the sale.
Hi Brock. In my shop I only use soft woods for over 10 years.. I have much of this. I clean the chimney every year and it is always clean. No build up of creosote. I find if you have it completely dry and run the stove hot there is no issues. Hard wood drive me out and be a waste.
We burn quite a bit of dry pine in the wood stove at my daddy’s shop and have never had a problem. Green pine will smoke bad and create buildup in the stove pipe but as long as it’s dry in my opinion seems to be fine
I burn all the slab hemlock and cedar of the mill, the white pine slab I sell in bundles for camp wood. I run a brush down the stove pipe every year and there is very little creosote actually still looks new, years later
I grew up in a house with four fireplaces, my mom liked roaring fires so we burned a lot of wood, any and every kind of wood. We never had any issues.😊
Howdy Brock! You have an added incentive to keeping the shop well heated... a sizable investment in fish! When I was a kid (70's and 80's), my dad and grandpa volunteered to tear down some old barns on a property our church owned. I know... this is blasphemy, but we cut up the beams for use in our wood stove. Talk about heat! And one chunk of beam would burn for 8 hours! There was a time when dad would burn pretty much anything in the stove. We used to have a 'chimney guy' that would sweep the chimney every other year or so. Then dad found a chimney brush at a flea market and started doing it every year. Even with the 'junk' wood never had an issue with build up. Drawing from my learnin' from when I was a firefighter, the hotter the fire, the less chance of creosote building up on the chimney. Creosote is a byproduct of incomplete combustion, so it builds up in a chimney much faster in regular fireplace chimney vs a wood stove chimney. If you have a good balance of heat and air there should be very light smoke coming from your chimney, and it should be a very light grey or even white color. Darker smoke means you could have buildup in the chimney. Sweep your pipe once a year and you should never have a problem. Hope this helps! 🤠
Hey Brock... I had a Double Barrel wood stove in My 26x36 not so well insulated Garage. I modified the top Barrel. The Flue out the top extended down inside to trap huge amounts of Heat. then I ran 2 horizontal 8" flue Pipes out the sides with an old Furnace fan on the wall blowing wind all around the top barrel and through the horizontal Pipes... I had no issues getting that garage up to temp. I did have to monitor as sometimes I got the top Barrell to glowing. HAAHAHA.
You can make your own firestarters with sawdust and melting down old candles; put into a cardboard egg carton. I heated a house for about 10 years with a wood stove in the lower level. I burned anything I had and used old pallets for kindling. I choked the dampener down and that led to a lot of creosote that I would need to brush out my chimney a couple times of a winter.
My grandpa said cut the trees when the leaves fall off the trees, the trees nutrients go into the rats and come back up in the spring one person said you Bern Greenwood. It takes heat to dry it out in the stove so you are using BTUs to heat and dry, wet wet, that makes sense
heated with wood all my young life---i would always add mostly hard--but grab 2 pine and throw in together--man alive what a HOT fire we would have--the only issues would be creasote build-up IF we ran it on low or medium low--one day i had stove on low all day--then about 4 pm all my neighbors came over screaming that we have flames coming from our chimney! i just opened it up wide open and a few minutes later it burned down.....
I'm burning some pine this year for the first time. Mainly because I got a bunch of it for free, and I like to experiment. It took a short time for it to dry and I'm having no issues with creosote at all. My chimney does draft really well and I'm sure that helps. Does it yield as much heat as the equivalent volume of hardwood? Absolutely not, but I'm home to feed the stove quite often and I'll fill it with hardwood for the overnight burn or when I'll be gone for more than a few hours. It looks like you could cut your wood a little longer and get a larger volume of wood in the firebox. That little forklift looks really handy. I'll search your videos for more on that!
Due to me being me and helping out some neighbors and friends, as always but this year more than others on the tree work they seem to have needed done. I have an abondance of lesser wood spices to burn. I still have hedge and oak etc as my "good wood" to burn but also getting rid of the elm , sycamore, and silver maple, etc. as "filler wood" I have found that there is good heat in them just need to be filled more often, as I expected. Pine is fine if you don't mind tending the fire and keep the draft open a bit more for the fire to stay hot.
Locust fire wood is by far the absolute best hardwood you can burn in a wood stove, it splits perfectly, cures well and burns hotter than just about any other species…. With out an airtight firebox and all nite fire is impossible period…. Brock needs to buy a different/bigger/air tight stove to be able to achieve burn times of up to 8 hours or more.
We burned pine and cedar and eventually our pipe got clogged so much it wouldn’t burn well and kinda smothered the fire. We had the chimney cleaned and started burning oak.
Start out each day with a good roaring fire and that will keep the buildup burned off and down to a minimum. My cousin Tim lived out in CO and UT for a few years and pine and fir was all they had for firewood. He used that procedure religiously and only had a chimney sweep come out once in 3 years and the pipe/chimney didn't really even need it very much then.
A masonry stove with more mass would fix your issue of needing to keep the fire going constantly. Get a good hot fire once or twice a day and the mass keeps the heat and releases it slowly and evenly. Edit: Pine is fine. Hell, if you get a stove that can burn sawdust you'll be able to burn every bit or bark that's left over from processing the wood.
I use hardwood slabs from the local sawmill for firewood. No pine around here. Is it as good as seasoned heartwood? I don't think so, but it is cheap and relatively easy. Would I prefer to have "good" firewood? Yes. but the ease of getting slabs makes a big point in their favor.
I leave our ashes in a covered metal barrel for at least 5 days (to make sure ALL the coals are out.) EVERY YEAR, we have numerous people dump live coals and start a fire.
Brock, I know absolutely nothing about burning wood. I can’t wait to read your comments. I think they will give me some pointers. I have an off grid camp with a wood stove but I haven’t used the stove yet.
I've been heating my house with a wood stove for fifty years. Here on the coast in the Pacific Northwest, we have a variety of species available: softwoods like Port Orford and western red cedars, pine, spruce, and fir; semi hardwoods like red alder; and hardwoods such as maple, madrone, and myrtle. I have found that dry, seasoned wood burns most efficiently, eliminating the risk of creosote buildup. Dry and seasoned are two different classifications. The first refers to moisture on the wood from outside sources like weather or humidiy. The second refers to the moisture content in the very middle of the piece you are burning. A log left in round form will take longer to season versus a log that has been split, allowing it to air dry as moisture evaporates. In your case, how long ago was the tree cut from which those slabs were taken? If it was recently, then the slabs would be considered green, and would require time to become dry and seasoned. Loading a stove with a variety of species helps with efficient burning. My kindling is from the cedars, as are my intermediate pieces, followed by my longer burning split pieces. Watch out for over stoking your stove with hardwoods. When I first began burning wood, I was unfamiliar with the effect that a chunk of dry seasoned madrone would have until my stove glowed red. It was a scary lesson that resulted in a cracked and warped stovetop. One additional warning, I was working outside on a cold winter's day at a house with a wood stove which I soon learned was overloaded. Suddenly I heard a pulsing roar coming from the chimney. Sparks were flying creosote was crackling, and flames were soon blowing out the top. I ran into the house and told the owner to call the fire department, then get her kids bundled and out of the house. I soaked a towel in water and tossed it into the woodstove. The resulting steam helped reduce the intensity of the flames until the fire department arrived and took it from there. No major damage, but a major lesson learned. Keep your flue clean and be careful not to overload your firebox with the damper wide open.
i burn what i get. i have lots of free skids available yr round. i burn hardwood at nite and when i leave the house but when home if its wood its going in the stove heats heat
Seasoned wood is like a pizza right out of the oven. Green wood is like a cold pizza from yesterday from the fridge. Both taste good, Both get the job done, One is more fun than the other
You'll get Creosote over time, no matter what. Take an hour to clean the chimney once a year, and you're good. Burn a creosote log to make the job even easier, it comes right off like dust
Burn what you have, burn it hot, lean, an clean. Softwoods make more soot, hardwoods make more creosote. Softwoods are more apt to start a chimney fire when burned in a stove that has been burning hardwoods for a long time, as flames from a softwood startup will shoot way higher up the chimney than hardwood fires. This doesn't mean the softwood is more dangerous. It's actually the hardwoods that set the trap.
Pinesood being high in pitch is the reason for easy lighting that's why there are so many wildfires in the regions where they are found gotta say if you're comfortable with it to each his own
Creosote/wood tar formation has mostly to do with having a fairly low, smoldering fire and not with species of wood used for firewood. The vast majority of the volatiles in pine burn off in the fire itself as the wood is burning. Burning **GREEN** wood of **ANY** species can increase the formation of creosote/wood tar, because your fire doesn't burn as intensely while the fire is drying out the wood to get it to burn. And the best procedure to follow to cut down on creosote/wood tar formation is to start off the day with a good raging fire of dry wood. That will keep the vast majority of the buildup in your stove pipe burned off.
Morning Brock.
I used to burn what i could get. I would pull downed trees from the side of the dirt roads and drag them to the house and process them. It helped keep the county roads clear and keep up my fire wood supply. And every year when it would get cold i would disconnect the flew from the stove vacuum out the top of the stove and clean the pipping. I only ever got about a half a coffee can of crud from it all. Granted it was only about 14ft straight up from top of stove but the top of it was waist high.
Wood heat is the best, it warms your bones!
Happy Thanksgiving Brock and Family.
I grew up with wood heaters in our home. We only used pine to get the initial bed of coals, then fed it hard wood. At night before we went to bed, we would throw a large, unsplit, log in the stove. It would usually last almost all of the night, with the dampers shut way down. The hardwood makes a larger, longer lasting bed of caols. We also used used log dogs, which helps alot with venting and letting the fire breath.
My dad burned nothing but well seasoned hard wood in his Hot Blast wood furnace. When he got too old to fool with it i bought it off of him. That stove pipe was almost completely stopped up. Im really surprised he never had a chimney fire. The furnace was too big for his house and he was keeping the stove choked down too much. I have the same stove in tge barn, same pipe, chimney, everything. I burn pine and poplar lumber scraps and run it wide open and have never had a problem.
My grandfather always had a stack of black locust next to the stove. First fire of the day he loaded the firebox up with locust and then burned other species during the rest of the day. He said the heat generated by the locust cleaned the flue out 🤷 Probably his father and his grandfather and so on did the same. We never burned softwood, not because we were afraid of it, we just live in an area where hardwood is the majority of the woods. Good video 👍
Hello Brock. During the video, when you used your chainsaw, I watched as you pulled the start cord multiple times. Last month, I bought a Greenworks 60V battery saw, with an 18 inch bar, on sale. I was amazed by the power the saw had. The beauty is that, when I want to cut, I pick it up, press the trigger, and it jumps into action. The saw is well balanced and easy to use.
When you replace your wood stove with a bigger unit, take a look at the Blaze King models. They use a catalytic combuster and are extremely efficient with long burn times, reducing wood consumption.
I personally like a catalytic converter on a stove for exactly those reasons, but you do have to be more careful with what you burn. You can poison them with high sap content wood, which is where the creosote formation comes from. And as far as I know (and I may be misinformed on this), all the stoves I've seen with catalytic converters >require< a blower when burning. Without that, the stove can get too hot and cause either a fracture in the metal or cause the catalytic converter itself to break. In the event a power failure, that could be an issue. If this isn't the case, I'd like to know that.
Ten years ago, I worked in a store that sold Blaze King wood stoves. People who owned one of these stoves told me that, for best results, they burned wood which had been dried for two years under shelter. Many of the customers said they had used their stove for more than 15 years. They also talked about the efficiency of the stoves and the extended burn times. A few times, when I was educating a prospective customer about the features and benefits of a Blaze King stove, a Blaze King owner would step in, add more information, based on their experience and actually make the sale.
Hi Brock. In my shop I only use soft woods for over 10 years.. I have much of this. I clean the chimney every year and it is always clean. No build up of creosote. I find if you have it completely dry and run the stove hot there is no issues. Hard wood drive me out and be a waste.
We burn quite a bit of dry pine in the wood stove at my daddy’s shop and have never had a problem. Green pine will smoke bad and create buildup in the stove pipe but as long as it’s dry in my opinion seems to be fine
I burn all the slab hemlock and cedar of the mill, the white pine slab I sell in bundles for camp wood. I run a brush down the stove pipe every year and there is very little creosote actually still looks new, years later
Great video Brock. A hot fire will keep the creosote burnt out. My experience is green wood will build up alot more than seasoned.
I grew up in a house with four fireplaces, my mom liked roaring fires so we burned a lot of wood, any and every kind of wood. We never had any issues.😊
Howdy Brock! You have an added incentive to keeping the shop well heated... a sizable investment in fish! When I was a kid (70's and 80's), my dad and grandpa volunteered to tear down some old barns on a property our church owned. I know... this is blasphemy, but we cut up the beams for use in our wood stove. Talk about heat! And one chunk of beam would burn for 8 hours! There was a time when dad would burn pretty much anything in the stove. We used to have a 'chimney guy' that would sweep the chimney every other year or so. Then dad found a chimney brush at a flea market and started doing it every year. Even with the 'junk' wood never had an issue with build up. Drawing from my learnin' from when I was a firefighter, the hotter the fire, the less chance of creosote building up on the chimney. Creosote is a byproduct of incomplete combustion, so it builds up in a chimney much faster in regular fireplace chimney vs a wood stove chimney. If you have a good balance of heat and air there should be very light smoke coming from your chimney, and it should be a very light grey or even white color. Darker smoke means you could have buildup in the chimney. Sweep your pipe once a year and you should never have a problem. Hope this helps! 🤠
Great knowledge to share, thx
Hey Brock...
I had a Double Barrel wood stove in My 26x36 not so well insulated Garage.
I modified the top Barrel. The Flue out the top extended down inside to trap huge amounts of Heat. then I ran 2 horizontal 8" flue Pipes out the sides with an old Furnace fan on the wall blowing wind all around the top barrel and through the horizontal Pipes... I had no issues getting that garage up to temp.
I did have to monitor as sometimes I got the top Barrell to glowing. HAAHAHA.
If you have a ceiling fan it helps circulate the heat and you can by little fans for the top of your stove
I've been thinking about installing a wood burner in my shop here in Southern Indiana. Good content, thanks Brock!
You can make your own firestarters with sawdust and melting down old candles; put into a cardboard egg carton. I heated a house for about 10 years with a wood stove in the lower level. I burned anything I had and used old pallets for kindling. I choked the dampener down and that led to a lot of creosote that I would need to brush out my chimney a couple times of a winter.
only have softwoods here. Seasoned Pine is fine
Happy Thanksgiving to Brock and your family
Larger chunks of green wood won't get as hot but will hold a fire much longer soft woods with pine tar burn hot and quick
My grandpa said cut the trees when the leaves fall off the trees, the trees nutrients go into the rats and come back up in the spring one person said you Bern Greenwood. It takes heat to dry it out in the stove so you are using BTUs to heat and dry, wet wet, that makes sense
I use slab wood as kindling or early in the Winter when the house is damp and need a quick fire.
I'd be curious to know what the increase in your electric bill is with that electric heater that you're using
Can you cut back the airflow through the stove? It seems to me that if you choke back the airflow the burn rate would decrease.
heated with wood all my young life---i would always add mostly hard--but grab 2 pine and throw in together--man alive what a HOT fire we would have--the only issues would be creasote build-up IF we ran it on low or medium low--one day i had stove on low all day--then about 4 pm all my neighbors came over screaming that we have flames coming from our chimney! i just opened it up wide open and a few minutes later it burned down.....
I'm burning some pine this year for the first time. Mainly because I got a bunch of it for free, and I like to experiment. It took a short time for it to dry and I'm having no issues with creosote at all. My chimney does draft really well and I'm sure that helps.
Does it yield as much heat as the equivalent volume of hardwood? Absolutely not, but I'm home to feed the stove quite often and I'll fill it with hardwood for the overnight burn or when I'll be gone for more than a few hours.
It looks like you could cut your wood a little longer and get a larger volume of wood in the firebox.
That little forklift looks really handy. I'll search your videos for more on that!
Yeah, the mini skid steer is great. It gets in a lot of places that my tractors cannot.
What happened to the woodshed build? That egg fall out of the nest and break on the sidewalk? I see the frame but no roof or sides.
Due to me being me and helping out some neighbors and friends, as always but this year more than others on the tree work they seem to have needed done. I have an abondance of lesser wood spices to burn. I still have hedge and oak etc as my "good wood" to burn but also getting rid of the elm , sycamore, and silver maple, etc. as "filler wood" I have found that there is good heat in them just need to be filled more often, as I expected. Pine is fine if you don't mind tending the fire and keep the draft open a bit more for the fire to stay hot.
Don't burn pine, ha,ha. All I have is pine, dried, seasoned and burns great.
I burn whatever falls down including pine. Why waste it? I cut a year in advance & let it season. Ny favorite is locust.
Locust fire wood is by far the absolute best hardwood you can burn in a wood stove, it splits perfectly, cures well and burns hotter than just about any other species…. With out an airtight firebox and all nite fire is impossible period…. Brock needs to buy a different/bigger/air tight stove to be able to achieve burn times of up to 8 hours or more.
We burned pine and cedar and eventually our pipe got clogged so much it wouldn’t burn well and kinda smothered the fire. We had the chimney cleaned and started burning oak.
Start out each day with a good roaring fire and that will keep the buildup burned off and down to a minimum. My cousin Tim lived out in CO and UT for a few years and pine and fir was all they had for firewood. He used that procedure religiously and only had a chimney sweep come out once in 3 years and the pipe/chimney didn't really even need it very much then.
That stove is more of a small camp cook stove
A masonry stove with more mass would fix your issue of needing to keep the fire going constantly. Get a good hot fire once or twice a day and the mass keeps the heat and releases it slowly and evenly.
Edit: Pine is fine. Hell, if you get a stove that can burn sawdust you'll be able to burn every bit or bark that's left over from processing the wood.
I use hardwood slabs from the local sawmill for firewood. No pine around here. Is it as good as seasoned heartwood? I don't think so, but it is cheap and relatively easy. Would I prefer to have "good" firewood? Yes. but the ease of getting slabs makes a big point in their favor.
Pine is fine. The key to avoiding creosote is to burn dry wood. Wood needs to be 17% or below moisture content. two cents.
Not so much green wood or pine is how wet wood is in general as long as is mixed
Where do you dump the ash? Do you have fans to move the heat back down to shop floor level?
Ive heard its good to dump/spread on a rock driveway to kill weeds.... YMMV.
I’m piling mine on my rock driveway to make sure it is completely burnt out and then spreading it
I leave our ashes in a covered metal barrel for at least 5 days (to make sure ALL the coals are out.) EVERY YEAR, we have numerous people dump live coals and start a fire.
@ I keep it in that bucket with the lid on it for a couple days and then once it’s not hot at all, and I put it outside
Brock, I know absolutely nothing about burning wood. I can’t wait to read your comments. I think they will give me some pointers. I have an off grid camp with a wood stove but I haven’t used the stove yet.
Mixing it makes sense to me
Whatever works for you, go for it. Everyone has an opinion be it good or bad.
I've been heating my house with a wood stove for fifty years. Here on the coast in the Pacific Northwest, we have a variety of species available: softwoods like Port Orford and western red cedars, pine, spruce, and fir; semi hardwoods like red alder; and hardwoods such as maple, madrone, and myrtle. I have found that dry, seasoned wood burns most efficiently, eliminating the risk of creosote buildup. Dry and seasoned are two different classifications. The first refers to moisture on the wood from outside sources like weather or humidiy. The second refers to the moisture content in the very middle of the piece you are burning. A log left in round form will take longer to season versus a log that has been split, allowing it to air dry as moisture evaporates. In your case, how long ago was the tree cut from which those slabs were taken? If it was recently, then the slabs would be considered green, and would require time to become dry and seasoned. Loading a stove with a variety of species helps with efficient burning. My kindling is from the cedars, as are my intermediate pieces, followed by my longer burning split pieces. Watch out for over stoking your stove with hardwoods. When I first began burning wood, I was unfamiliar with the effect that a chunk of dry seasoned madrone would have until my stove glowed red. It was a scary lesson that resulted in a cracked and warped stovetop. One additional warning, I was working outside on a cold winter's day at a house with a wood stove which I soon learned was overloaded. Suddenly I heard a pulsing roar coming from the chimney. Sparks were flying creosote was crackling, and flames were soon blowing out the top. I ran into the house and told the owner to call the fire department, then get her kids bundled and out of the house. I soaked a towel in water and tossed it into the woodstove. The resulting steam helped reduce the intensity of the flames until the fire department arrived and took it from there. No major damage, but a major lesson learned. Keep your flue clean and be careful not to overload your firebox with the damper wide open.
i burn what i get. i have lots of free skids available yr round. i burn hardwood at nite and when i leave the house but when home if its wood its going in the stove heats heat
Thousands upon thousands of docks and shorelines are made of oak planks and 6 x 6 posts.
So you're suggesting stealing the neighbors dock and burning it? I like it :)
Seasoned wood is like a pizza right out of the oven. Green wood is like a cold pizza from yesterday from the fridge. Both taste good, Both get the job done, One is more fun than the other
You'll get Creosote over time, no matter what. Take an hour to clean the chimney once a year, and you're good. Burn a creosote log to make the job even easier, it comes right off like dust
Do you have a dampener
Yeah, it is built into these stoves. At least the ones I’ve had.
Wow! There was an argument in the comment section?! That's odd!
Burn what you have, burn it hot, lean, an clean.
Softwoods make more soot, hardwoods make more creosote. Softwoods are more apt to start a chimney fire when burned in a stove that has been burning hardwoods for a long time, as flames from a softwood startup will shoot way higher up the chimney than hardwood fires. This doesn't mean the softwood is more dangerous. It's actually the hardwoods that set the trap.
Cardboard is good to get fires going.
Maybe his tire pressure was to much
Pine is fine and has been for a long time! LoL
I had appointment's so I'm late u 2
👀👀
Pinesood being high in pitch is the reason for easy lighting that's why there are so many wildfires in the regions where they are found gotta say if you're comfortable with it to each his own