Drill an extra hole behind the last steering box bolt to help let water and dirt out of the rail . Owned a blue slant Pacer in the early 80s . Man there were better Pacers in the wrecker in them days 😢.
Good to see you back again. As others have said, I would recommend some copper grease on the stainless bolts and do them up by hand, not the ugga-dugga. Look forward to seeing more updates.
Hay mate, almost done, paint, tyres and taillights and ready for a show and shine! 😂🤣 Yeh, it will get there one day, maybe not next Sunday but it will get there! I love old vals, owned a few in my early life and they were bullet proof , and tough as nails!
Looks good . I like the idea of keeping the riverbed history.but I would paint with POR50 all the chassis k frame under car inside the cabin hoot ect . It will last for ever and show off all the new bits you have worked hard for Nice work
Use copper slip or something to lube the bolts as you replace them especially stainless also with the stainless don't use your ugaduga it can cause no end of problems when the threads bind up . But gkad to see some progress on the car
When you originally said you intended to restore this car, I was very happy. I was sad when you decided to leave it patina. But when you say it costs $140 for four damn bolts, then I can see restoration is just not affordable at all. Do it your way and I will keep watching!
The K frame.. when installing...take a point of reference from each side of chassis.k frame installed loose and line up..pay off later with wheel tracking..🤔🤟
Fantastic to you back on the Val, Just as a side note, have you checked to see if there's no issues with ownership or the likes. Hate to see you get to the end have issues.
You should of put anti size on X member bolts and don't put nolathane bushes in top wishbones bro it stresses the ears out on chassis plus you should put a sleeve kit on both rails last forever mate had mine 40 years done all that back in the 90s when no one wanted a pacer
wurth rust converter in the spray can can be sprayed over rust to seal and stop it and since its clear still gives a patina look even though the rust turns a shinier darker brown. plus is a resin based so it lasts. dont use the CRC stuff since it wont last without overcoating. careful with those stainless bolts.... have found they tend to crack or even crumble on the thread part
Stainless steel screws/bolts are exactly what you should NOT use on a K frame. They are nowhere near high enough tensile strength to hold structural members together. An engineer would defect that immediately And the factory K frame bolts have a locating bulge/taper under the head which locates the K frame on the centre line of the bolt holes. Critical for correct wheel alignment.
Paint the engine bay same colour as the car thats how Chrysler did it mate its open and easy to do please don't cut corners and stuff it , or sell it as is let someone else do a proper job mate
It's not exactly body work. ( 28 seconds into video ). It's subframe work and additions. And subframe and k-frame are not the same thing. Just saying. Rear wheel drive vehicles also have k-frames VN Commadore and EA falcon for example.
Great to see you back on the pacer please paint it back in its factory colour 🙏🙏
Pretty much be ready for Chryslers on the Murray I reckon.
Drill an extra hole behind the last steering box bolt to help let water and dirt out of the rail . Owned a blue slant Pacer in the early 80s . Man there were better Pacers in the wrecker in them days 😢.
Good to see you back mate. Good to see the Pacer getting some love too. Look forward to seeing it back on the road.
Whilst I'm not a patina fan, its still great to see this car finally coming back together.
Good to see you back again. As others have said, I would recommend some copper grease on the stainless bolts and do them up by hand, not the ugga-dugga. Look forward to seeing more updates.
Hay mate, almost done, paint, tyres and taillights and ready for a show and shine! 😂🤣 Yeh, it will get there one day, maybe not next Sunday but it will get there! I love old vals, owned a few in my early life and they were bullet proof , and tough as nails!
You are farken amazing. Keep up the good work on the as I call all Valiants Chariot of the Wogs. 😅
Good to see you DJ doing something more , I thought you had become another u toob casualty 👍👍
Good to see old girls brought back to life
Looking comfortable with the welder now
Good to see an update!
Good to see a new video. It might be a good idea to put some never seize on the subframe bolts.
Looks good .
I like the idea of keeping the riverbed history.but I would paint with POR50 all the chassis k frame under car inside the cabin hoot ect .
It will last for ever and show off all the new bits you have worked hard for
Nice work
Country folk have great shed space
Wicked video mate and can't wait to see it shortly.
Use copper slip or something to lube the bolts as you replace them especially stainless also with the stainless don't use your ugaduga it can cause no end of problems when the threads bind up .
But gkad to see some progress on the car
Hope your well dj..great to get an update….🏴👍😎 1:47
Time to pick up the PACEer on the build
Cool ya back into the Val 💯👍👍please paint it in its original factory colour 🙏🙏
nice work DJ
"Watch the paint" 😂 I thought that was the big draw card of patina, you dont have to watch the paint! In all seriousness its looking great.
Loving the pacer update mate! And thanks for the shoutout 🍻
Well done mate, looking brilliant!!
Always interesting when its the #ValiantPacer😲O 4 Orsum 👍
When you originally said you intended to restore this car, I was very happy. I was sad when you decided to leave it patina. But when you say it costs $140 for four damn bolts, then I can see restoration is just not affordable at all. Do it your way and I will keep watching!
Pacer will be ready for RCN next year
Well done, looking great!
The K frame.. when installing...take a point of reference from each side of chassis.k frame installed loose and line up..pay off later with wheel tracking..🤔🤟
Just go over the gloss black lightly with a scotch cloth/green chux sponge that should give it a satin look
❤❤❤ LOVE IT DJ IT IT COMING BRO
Fantastic to you back on the Val,
Just as a side note, have you checked to see if there's no issues with ownership or the likes.
Hate to see you get to the end have issues.
Hey, the parts I sold you were definitely VF ... Tom.
Nice work but put some paint on everything, you won’t ever have the car stripped like that again, it’s just worth while doing.
You should of put anti size on X member bolts and don't put nolathane bushes in top wishbones bro it stresses the ears out on chassis plus you should put a sleeve kit on both rails last forever mate had mine 40 years done all that back in the 90s when no one wanted a pacer
I love the patina
I had a blue pacer with black interior that thing could go believe it
Welcome back 🍻
Madguards, not fenders, mad gurge you are in Australia, not us
wurth rust converter in the spray can can be sprayed over rust to seal and stop it and since its clear still gives a patina look even though the rust turns a shinier darker brown. plus is a resin based so it lasts. dont use the CRC stuff since it wont last without overcoating. careful with those stainless bolts.... have found they tend to crack or even crumble on the thread part
Yer should be high tensile bolts , stainless is a soft metal it stretches not safe for that kind off use mate
Do you have a 3 speed floor shifter if not I got one next time your this way it's the correct one for that car
Why didn't you paint the sub fram??????
Try to find a lathe, with some basic machine skills you could make your own in future, extremely handy machine to have.
When using.gasless.??I found using no shroud.gives a better weld😋
Stainless steel screws/bolts are exactly what you should NOT use on a K frame. They are nowhere near high enough tensile strength to hold structural members together. An engineer would defect that immediately And the factory K frame bolts have a locating bulge/taper under the head which locates the K frame on the centre line of the bolt holes. Critical for correct wheel alignment.
Aussie Mopar💪
$140 for 4 bolts ! 4
Ever heard of a thread tap, clean your rusty threads first
He is an coriggible young fellow . . the trade winds sway he went away to the great war , he should have come back to Hanging rock
Graham seems to be a little short on projects and he wants a break from the tank ….. just saying 😂😂😂😂
Make it in to a rat rod
Paint the engine bay same colour as the car thats how Chrysler did it mate its open and easy to do please don't cut corners and stuff it , or sell it as is let someone else do a proper job mate
Mig is better than tig . . warrior over wank
if your are going to do it do it right
First
It's not exactly body work. ( 28 seconds into video ).
It's subframe work and additions.
And subframe and k-frame are not the same thing.
Just saying.
Rear wheel drive vehicles also have k-frames
VN Commadore and EA falcon for example.