Troubleshooting An AIO CPU Liquid Cooler
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- Troubleshooting An AIO CPU Liquid Cooler
Today we will see how to check aio pump is working.
Remember Ryzen 7000 Series is designed for a lifetime at 95°C
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Let me know in comments below if you like this type of content, so I know whether to continue to make it.
Using high end parts that require high power in ITX case is not a good idea.
Hi, good video. Suggest mounting radiator in front with hoses down, and reversing airflow -from mesh & back wall, and then out in front through radiator. This will also pull heat from behind MB and supply colder air for the gpu.
@@MrLorgen But then you will have no in take
Hi and thank you for making great videos, I've seen alot of them for the last years. Always to the point 😊
Maybe my explanation was bad, I meant reversing all 3x standalone fans to intakes, and then exhaust through radiator in front.
A way to reduce resistance for radiator fans, and increase fresh air supply and needed circulation around MB components.
Problems I've had with liquid cooling in small boxes are no circulation of air pass VRM's, RAM
(espec. hot DDR5) and other MB components, giving instability and most likely reduced lifetime.
Some AIO's negate this issue a bit by having a small fan in the cpu block/pump housing to give a slight breeze in these areas.
Do you know if both tubes are suposed to be vibrating? I only feel one
My pc sometimes starts off at 90 degrees
Ill turn it off let it cool down and do it again then everything is fine
I dont know what to do :(
I'm no expert but was thinking about adding an AIO, so I did a little research, and the first thing I saw was that in the vertical position AIO's get trapped air at the top, so the pipes should be at the bottom as most AIO's have 10% air that sits at the highest point, or you will end up only pumping froth instead of water, and many end up with blockages over the CPU with some sort of whitish gunge, so the pump maybe running, but the water isn't circulating needless to say I'm sticking with air for the moment.
i have always preferred a full size case plenty of airflow, and lots of room to work on.
I normally do
My bios says N/A for the AIO and cpu instantly heats and and turns off. Is my AIO busted or something else wrong
What case did you end up replacing the mini case with or do you pan on just leaving the mesh off to improve airflow?
I make a build video, you can see it then
i have different case same problem, i removed the back Pannell where the hot air is spoused to be exhausted was causing restriction
im very new to computers this is my first one and its running alot hotter then usual only one pump is vibrating and in the bios is says na on the cpu fan do you know what could be the problem, i just checked my thermal paste and it is fine
good news its just the case cheapest option,i am not a fan of tiny cases my corsair 4000 is good plenty of air flow
Cheap £65 case. These small cases do cause issue with high-end hardware.
Here’s my issue:
I have no idea what to do at this point.
I have a Lian Li ALC 360 Coolant System and a Gigabyte B650 X AX V2 Motherboard (note: the Lian Li pump cable only has a 3 pin socket that still will fit on the 4 pin motherboard header. I have the pump plugged into the system pump 4 pin on the motherboard. I have the other cable of the two plugged into the CPU Fan Header on the mother Board. Nothing is plugged into the CPU_Opt. The lights on the pump come on, but the fans do not move nor does it recognize/detect the CPU Fan or the Pump in the BIOS. Both says N/A. It does however stay at about 37 degrees. No recognition of coolant fans at all. My only issue with this new build.
I am facing a related issue, have you found a fix?
are both pipes supposed to vibrate?
Can you take a drill and drill 4 holes in the 4 corners of the grill then use a small hacksaw to cut out the grill completely. Would this help with the heat problem?
I just replace case
Hi, excellent video, taking the system out of the case was a good idea. Whatever AMD say I don't want my CPU running anywhere near 95 degrees, my ryzen 7 runs at 45 on idle and rarely gets much above 60 under load thanks to an Arctic AIO and my Meshify 2 case. I must say I was surprised with the Phanteks case's poor performance as they have a quite good reputation.
Great video👍
Thanks 👍
I have a kraken elite 240 that keeps randomly shutting off. all connections are correct/ i reinstalled drivers etc. It still shuts off within 15 minutes of the Pc being on. At a loss on what the issue may be 😭
Shut offs arr generally indicative of an over heating component. Your system will shutoff automatically to prevent damage. Check your temps that will help you narrow it down.
👍👍
Cheers 👍
I have had it with these AIO CPU coolers for this past two years. Blew through 2 Corsair H110is, a Thermaltake and Arctic 340mm x 140 mm CPU liquid coolers. These start off as well built systems but eventually, internal galvanic corrosion pulverizes fine cooling channels and clogs pumps. This cannot really be helped as galvanic corrosion is a natural process between the pump and the fine cooling channels in the pump head and slightly dissimilar metals. Even with the best electronic grade coolants these will eventually fail. These pumps always need replacement and the rads flushed out. These AIO units are kind of pricey for something meant to only last 2 years. I especially hate the site of these ending up in our E waste city facility buy the dozen every day. I wish there was a way the manufacturers can make them last longer not just to save money but to save our environment.
I don't think I ever seen a AIO water cooling that didn't fail even after a short use time, no matter the brand. They are all worthless over-priced e-waste solution. In many situations the temp differences are very small, sometimes only by 2-5 degrees.
What is short use time? One month? Three months?
Interesting content and very useful
Glad you think so!
Perhaps a little late to the party, but if airflow is suspected, it’s always an idea to pull off the side cover and aim a house fan into the case to see if it improves things.
ya
I have an open air case and my temps spike to 100 celcuis on startup.
I don't understand. Three videos ago you said, "temps are fine." Now, it's the case not allowing proper air flow. If that was the 'case,' then how could temps be "fine?" We have software that measures the temperature of every component. What was the delta in and out of the case, and which components were overheating?
People always wonder why there's problems but cases like this is cramped. Fans is kinda strange so ya there's going to be issues. AIRFLOW is needed
Yes Brian I like to smear with a gloved finger the entire surface of both the CPU and the cooler so that every square millimetre is covered and and never had a problem with this method. Yes mate that vibration is the impeller inside the cooler head spinning and the indication that it is spinning can be wrong if the impeller is off centre or badly manufactured. This is not very often the case but can be. By the by I personally don't like small cases/enclosures anyway I like lots of fans in a mid sized tower case like my Coolermaster HAF XM - a brilliant case they discontinued for no good reason that I can see.
They probably discontinued the case because too many people were trying to shoehorn powerful systems into pizza box sized cases. I like a big roomy case too.
I do the same with compound. I put a small amount of thermal compound on to both CPU and heatsink, and spread that out until it covers the entire surface, and scrape of the excess. Then I put a small blob in the middle before putting them together. I've seen the first part referred to as "tinting".
@@dalriada842 I agree mate then there can be no reason why the compound is not evenly spread eh?
I've read that the motor and impeller are independent and only connected by magnets, so if the pump was blocked and the impeller jammed, the motor would still be turning and providing vibration but no fluid being pumped.
I want to mention something here , since you mentioned thermal paste. Inside the power supply their are switching MOSFETS which switch the DC line voltage at a very high frequency Between the MOSFET'S and heat sink is you guessed it thermal paste ( or pad) Why don't all these people go on and on about the thermal paste inside the power supply You are doing the same thing putting a thermal compound between two metals Same concept but one is more important to spend all this nonsense about because the CPU is more important in their eyes If you load the power supply it gets hot just like the CPU , same idea but not as important Why ? That's why all that thermal paste on the CPU is all nonsense
Pc kept crashing after 8 years I think mime finally gave up lol...
Wheres the TLDR?
I like room for expansion cards, and elbowroom in general, so I'm not a fan of ITX or tiny cases. Also, I'm not crazy about high-wattage CPU's or GPU's. So, I don't have these kind of problems. But it is good to watch your video; makes me aware of other pitfalls...
I am going to replace case and motherboard to ATX
Just use Corsair Link. I have a 7 year old AIO that works perfect, and never changed the thermal paste. My case is a huge Corsair case and never had a problem with heat. I knew it was the case because I have an AIO and never had a problem with it.
7 years old? That's impressive.
Can you do a video of where you rebuild it into your new case and temp checks lol and thats a point what case are you going with
Sure
I had a pump fail and because the Bios was set to shut down at 100c the computer shut itself down.
Well that's a good thing, it saved your PC.
You have 2 intake fans, both of which are partially blocked.
You have 4 exhaust fans (2 on radiator, 1 on rear of case, and 1 on power supply).
You have a large imbalance, and are running a negative pressure case setup.
I would turn the rear case fan around and use it for another intake. It will also blow cooler air over your VRM and RAM.
The case design is below average, as there is no dominant airflow pattern (front to rear, etc...).
Regarding the mesh hole size, it is mostly irrelevant (though does play a part). What is important is the open area percentage. It has small holes which are spaced too far apart (in relation to hole size), so it has a low % of open area, hence low airflow ability.
Regarding the air temperature coming out of the radiator, the hotter the air coming out from the radiator, the more heat energy which is being dissipated (transferred from the radiator fins to the air), meaning the radiator is performing as designed. If the CPU was running hot, and the temperature coming out of the radiator was low, then the pump has likely failed, as it is no longer moving the heat energy from the CPU to the radiator (heat energy should travel from the CPU to the coolant, then to the radiator, then to the air).
That is the optimal setup for that case and its rubbish
My aio cooler has an lcd on it but it doesn't seem to show my cpu temp but it displays gpu temps. How do i fix this?
Is there software that you can install that might help?
@@BREEZYM6015 like what
Why a blue screen though? You would assume it would downclock or shutdown if it was bad enough before something like a bluescreen.
Yeah, my thoughts as well.
Maybe the VRM on the motherboard was overheating, as it is getting very little airflow. This may impact stable voltages getting to the CPU.
Looks like the internal temperature inside the case was too high, which is causing a component inside the system to play up. Which component? Who knows?
excellent video, it was the case then glad everthing is ok with the parts and you only need to replace the case 🤪
Thanks! 👍
Just leave the side panel open. No need to buy a new case.
@@davehenderson6896 Then Vermen will get in.
@@Nick41622 Where do you live? A jungle.