Thanks for the review, Chris! 😊 Some people use those plastic nuts and melt them with the soldering iron. I don't think it works, but hey... Who knows. Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Someone finally said it. Plugs vs solder. #1 problem I find as a barrier to entry and failure point is soldering. It's a good skill and I regularly teach kids how, but pads AND plugs as options should be standard.
If you bash your stuff about plugs come unconnected more often than solder in my experience. I've had one or two major solder failures in like 4 years of flying as opposed to the constant disconnections when I had a plugged FC in the early days. Maybe it depends on the plug but I just don't trust them as much.Plugs being there is fine as long as pads are good, if I could choose no plugs I would.
@@dingbatfpv Dab of hot glue fixes that. I'm teaching kids and RC gray beards with dexterity and eyesight issues. Without the skills or the right gear, they do not make solid solder connections. Plugs make sense for them. I do agree with you though, if you are bando bashing you must learn to solder. No way around it. 👍
I agree, but two options, one plugged and one not would be nice, as some frames really struggle with the higher stack height that's forced by the plugs. But having it with plugs only for a newbie is brilliant.
A plastic nut would be more stable than an iron nut, as the iron nut can vibrate and loosen, and the plastic nut's inner thread is usually smaller due to manufacturing tolerances. Also, the screw is softer than iron and is less prone to vibrating.
512M of BB is amazing. But I’d rather have an SD card slot, like the JBF7 or some speedybee FCs. It’s way faster to transfer and no need to plug your quad, and of course you are only limited by the size of your sd card
My main rig has plastic nuts on the stack and they do not budge. Actually only one of my quads doesn't have plastic ones, the grommets are enough to keep them from backing off, also don't know how you manage to strip them.
Make sure you actually test the current sensing capabilities. Geprc are known to have faulty current sensors (Span F722 BT HD v2 is a good example). A properly soldered joint is always better. If yours are coming off then you need to work on your soldering skills.
I'll make sure to calibrate the current sensor. The issue I have with soldered wires is the solder wicks a little bit up the wire away from the joint. This makes the wire brittle by the joint. Then if the wire moves around over time it can snap just beside the solder blob. With a plug the wire remains ductile and that makes it less likely to snap.
@@ChrisRosser that’s a very true concern. In and out quickly with the iron to help stop wicking or make sure the wires are twisted and tucked tightly to stop vibration.
That's sounds good and all but we will not know how good this is until actually using it, and that is the most important bit of info lacking in this video.
I find it hard to believe that plugs are more robust or cause fewer problems than soldered cables. Your experience doesn't necessarily apply to everyone. You're not saying that, just that you prefer plugs based on your experience.
@@minimaistor Yes, I had that too. It also had a loose connection, that disconnects randomly... from the analog camera to the VTX. So I decided to solder as much as possible. It's more work, but in my opinion it's safer.
It's a barrier to entry and without skills, poor solder connections do become a common failure point. They are for sure NOT more robust, but most issues with plugs can be solved with a generous dab of hot glue. Unless you smash that plug, it'll be fine. Trying to be inclusive here. Lots of middle to high schools in my area are now implementing robotic and drone programs. We get them hooked first the easy way using plug and play, then slide in soldering to get more advanced things working. Plus, my local RC gray beards have eyesight and dexterity/shaking hand issues. Plugs make sense and more FCs with them are appreciated.
Thanks for the review, Chris! 😊
Some people use those plastic nuts and melt them with the soldering iron. I don't think it works, but hey... Who knows.
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Someone finally said it. Plugs vs solder. #1 problem I find as a barrier to entry and failure point is soldering. It's a good skill and I regularly teach kids how, but pads AND plugs as options should be standard.
If you bash your stuff about plugs come unconnected more often than solder in my experience. I've had one or two major solder failures in like 4 years of flying as opposed to the constant disconnections when I had a plugged FC in the early days. Maybe it depends on the plug but I just don't trust them as much.Plugs being there is fine as long as pads are good, if I could choose no plugs I would.
@@dingbatfpv Dab of hot glue fixes that. I'm teaching kids and RC gray beards with dexterity and eyesight issues. Without the skills or the right gear, they do not make solid solder connections. Plugs make sense for them. I do agree with you though, if you are bando bashing you must learn to solder. No way around it. 👍
I agree, but two options, one plugged and one not would be nice, as some frames really struggle with the higher stack height that's forced by the plugs. But having it with plugs only for a newbie is brilliant.
Fine candidate to tune with the Flight Log Analyser
A plastic nut would be more stable than an iron nut, as the iron nut can vibrate and loosen, and the plastic nut's inner thread is usually smaller due to manufacturing tolerances. Also, the screw is softer than iron and is less prone to vibrating.
512M of BB is amazing. But I’d rather have an SD card slot, like the JBF7 or some speedybee FCs. It’s way faster to transfer and no need to plug your quad, and of course you are only limited by the size of your sd card
I dunno, the SD slots always seem to fail in one way or another. If you have a reliable one then by all means I’d prefer a slot.
My main rig has plastic nuts on the stack and they do not budge. Actually only one of my quads doesn't have plastic ones, the grommets are enough to keep them from backing off, also don't know how you manage to strip them.
please make video about caddx walksnail goggles L and moonlight distance /range test
Hi i cant find the GepRC VTX test video was it removed?
Does the TVS diode you recommend also applies to 4S?
Yea
It's suitable for all 6S Rated ESCs no matter the battery voltage used.
Make sure you actually test the current sensing capabilities. Geprc are known to have faulty current sensors (Span F722 BT HD v2 is a good example).
A properly soldered joint is always better. If yours are coming off then you need to work on your soldering skills.
I'll make sure to calibrate the current sensor. The issue I have with soldered wires is the solder wicks a little bit up the wire away from the joint. This makes the wire brittle by the joint. Then if the wire moves around over time it can snap just beside the solder blob. With a plug the wire remains ductile and that makes it less likely to snap.
@@ChrisRosser that’s a very true concern. In and out quickly with the iron to help stop wicking or make sure the wires are twisted and tucked tightly to stop vibration.
iNav doesn’t require a compass anymore
Blhelli s !!!! Should be am32 to be current
That's sounds good and all but we will not know how good this is until actually using it, and that is the most important bit of info lacking in this video.
I find it hard to believe that plugs are more robust or cause fewer problems than soldered cables. Your experience doesn't necessarily apply to everyone. You're not saying that, just that you prefer plugs based on your experience.
True, I have had plugs come off in crashes numerous times, I trust soldered cables much more. plugs are also big and get in the way on tight frames
@@minimaistor Yes, I had that too. It also had a loose connection, that disconnects randomly... from the analog camera to the VTX. So I decided to solder as much as possible. It's more work, but in my opinion it's safer.
It's a barrier to entry and without skills, poor solder connections do become a common failure point. They are for sure NOT more robust, but most issues with plugs can be solved with a generous dab of hot glue. Unless you smash that plug, it'll be fine.
Trying to be inclusive here. Lots of middle to high schools in my area are now implementing robotic and drone programs. We get them hooked first the easy way using plug and play, then slide in soldering to get more advanced things working. Plus, my local RC gray beards have eyesight and dexterity/shaking hand issues. Plugs make sense and more FCs with them are appreciated.
If you are using those mini mirco connection wires it’s better to have plug. Any bigger wires then direct solder is more stable
I always have to direct solder once the plug stops working. I don't think Chris crashes his drones much 😅
Don't forget about blue Jay for bl heli s escs...blue Jay is way better
So, you "augmenting" your voice again?