Tamiya makes a thicker cement that also makes a stronger bond then the thin cement. Does the same thing, melts PS and acts as a liquid weld. I’m assuming since it’s a thicker medium it melts longer while gassing out and makes a deeper plasti-weld. Not sure the science behind it. I just know when I need a stronger bond use the “orange cap” when bond strength doesn’t matter or capillary action is required “green cap”(thin, Tamiya equivalent of Mr Cement)
@@ourrulesrestoration8150 I have no idea how I stumbled across this. I guess it’s similar to scale modeling(my hobby) but it’s cool AF to see my child hood toys being fixed up to brand new.
Were you able to remove the rotor from the donor Tomahawk without breaking the shell? Are the two halves of the shell clipped, glued, or both? The tail rotor on my childhood Tomahawk is broken, but all my blades are pristine - I've stored the rotor flat for >30 years. I just purchased a replacement rotor, but haven't figured out how to swap it out without breaking the shell.
If i took my time i could of. Where it cracked when i split shell was at motor section on top and by front landing gear on bottom. The tail vsme apart without cracking
Very carefully heat them with hair dryer and bend them back into straight. Let it cool all way and if not happy heat and straighten til cool until you can live with them. Make sure u hold them on outside of where they snap in so you put zero pressure that part of them. Dont over heat them either or they will melt.
Also another idea, not sure if it would pertain to what you do. If you ever have plastic filling to do you can take Mr. Cement delux or any thin plastic weld solvent and mix it with pieces of polystyrene in a jar. It will completely dissolve the styrene and make a plastic paste. You can use that to fill holes or gaps and when it dries it’s a solid chunk of plastic. It will also weld itself in if the plastic is similar to PS. Then it can be scored/textured/dyed(ahead of time)/painted and will look and function just as the original.
![Stunned by a $7 Fountain Pen! [Pen ASMR]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EIYs0dgwRDA/mqdefault.jpg)
Tamiya makes a thicker cement that also makes a stronger bond then the thin cement. Does the same thing, melts PS and acts as a liquid weld.
I’m assuming since it’s a thicker medium it melts longer while gassing out and makes a deeper plasti-weld. Not sure the science behind it. I just know when I need a stronger bond use the “orange cap” when bond strength doesn’t matter or capillary action is required “green cap”(thin, Tamiya equivalent of Mr Cement)
I will definitely order me some. Why i love this community, people helping people.
@@ourrulesrestoration8150 I have no idea how I stumbled across this. I guess it’s similar to scale modeling(my hobby) but it’s cool AF to see my child hood toys being fixed up to brand new.
Awesome job! Can’t wait to see the final chopper.
Thank you wo much. Video coming soon
Most excellent bro well done 👍
Thank you, sir. I love when they turn out right.
Were you able to remove the rotor from the donor Tomahawk without breaking the shell? Are the two halves of the shell clipped, glued, or both? The tail rotor on my childhood Tomahawk is broken, but all my blades are pristine - I've stored the rotor flat for >30 years. I just purchased a replacement rotor, but haven't figured out how to swap it out without breaking the shell.
If i took my time i could of. Where it cracked when i split shell was at motor section on top and by front landing gear on bottom. The tail vsme apart without cracking
The halves are plastic welded bur with exacto knife and small shims your repair could be made
I just got a tomahawk it’s complete and unbroken but the rotor blades are bent how do you straighten them
Very carefully heat them with hair dryer and bend them back into straight. Let it cool all way and if not happy heat and straighten til cool until you can live with them. Make sure u hold them on outside of where they snap in so you put zero pressure that part of them. Dont over heat them either or they will melt.
@@ourrulesrestoration8150 thank you for the information will try that
Also another idea, not sure if it would pertain to what you do. If you ever have plastic filling to do you can take Mr. Cement delux or any thin plastic weld solvent and mix it with pieces of polystyrene in a jar. It will completely dissolve the styrene and make a plastic paste. You can use that to fill holes or gaps and when it dries it’s a solid chunk of plastic. It will also weld itself in if the plastic is similar to PS. Then it can be scored/textured/dyed(ahead of time)/painted and will look and function just as the original.
Never did that, but it sounds like something i need to research. Many times, i could have used that process. Very helpful
@@ourrulesrestoration8150 it’s called “sprue goo”. It’s used a lot in scale modeling.
It’s called “sprue goo” modelers use it a lot. Theres videos on the pros and cons and how to make it tailored to specific tasks.