Spray the mold with diluted bleach and water to kill the mold, dry it throughly, seal the plywood with some Kilz and fix the leak. Then move on with the build Stan.
Stan, I would make sure you have no mold any where else in the walls. Yes, that would mean un-building what you have done and removing the inner plywood, but then you would know that the whole trailer is good to go. Good luck and happy building.
I like the "spray, dry, seal" option as well. It's most time efficient. Alternatively, it seems like you could sell this one and buy a used regular travel trailer for that $6500 you mentioned.
Here’s my 2 cents: In the beginning, you said you wouldn’t have to spend much money, just time and you had plenty of that. I say stick with that plan - spend your time repairing the problem instead of spending your money on a new trailer!
I do agree. As a plumber, I have seen, been around lots of mold. Lawyers waaaaay over hyped mold, easy money. Strip that insulation, bleach wash it a few times, leave it open for a few weeks. Rework that area for better fit & seal.
If it was me I would just fix it. You've already planned on using that trailer so I wouldn't stop using it. Besides you've got the frame work in and the windows in. So I would fix it and find a better sealant than what the manufacturer used.
Hi stan, hello america. This may be a omen ,but I think you may want to revisit the idea of a bluebird . With your skills and work space and all the parts and accessory's you have, you could have a killer bus for 10,000 USD. It will last a lifetime and you will be supper comfortable and happy because you built it out yourself . Iam here to help ya as always.
In the front location you will want to cover the unit to keep the coils from getting plugged up with dead bugs as you drive. A draw string bag would take care of that. In the front location condensation will just drip outside on the ground. In the rear location you will need some type of pan to catch the condensation and plumb that water outside.
It's good to see you're doing more videos. It keeps the story fresh for us viewers. And you show people can do things when they are shut up in stay at home situations.
Redo the front, then you will know what you have. And Your old trailer is made better than the new ......You may end out with the same thing. But now you have made yours, and you know all holes are filled up. And NO mold.
Stan, look into an ozone generator. 120$ on Amazon. You plug it in and run it for an hour and it kills the mold. Then seal the leak and you’re good to go. I just bought one. It’s worth it’s weight in gold. Good luck.
Put on a mask, neutralize the mold with bleach and baking soda then scrub. After you've done that assess if the plywood needs replaced. If the plywood is good then just let it thoroughly dry and carry on. If the plywood does need replaced then it's really up to you whether or not it's worth the effort or if a replacement is in order. Although I would be concerned about the addition of the windows affecting trade in/resale value. Also not sure about using the window AC unit at all. Doubt it would work well inside and I wouldn't feel comfortable exposing it to the highway, I doubt the water would be a problem, but dust, debris, and severe wind might be. I'm sure you will figure it out, you always do. God bless you and remember to have fun, it's just a project.
Ya fix it and show us all how to fix mold inside a trailer/rv works. There are people like me out there that want a real, down to earth take on how to do it.
Stan ... I was a Sailboat Carpenter for years .... My personal advice ... Get some GOOD rubber gloves, in a 5 gallon bucket, fill it about half way with clean warm water, ADD 16 oz. of bleach ... out on some GOOD safety goggles, and a hand brush with stiff bristles.... Thoroughly CEAN the effected area ... do NOT rinse it ... go to Home depot, rent a blower/dryer for $22 bucks, let it run in there blowing air through it for 12 - 16 hours ... then leave it sit for another 3 days... Go purchase a quart size kit of Good marine grade fiberglass resin, and 3 4" paint brushes, .. Lay out a heavy drop cloth, and mix the resin, then apply a n even coat on the area, SEALING IT FOREVER... And giving the plywood new strength/life in the process .... Garranteed the BEST fix, with the least hassel !!!
Bleach it, Dry it well, seal it, paint it, fix the leak, then sell it and get a new trailer that will work a lot better for what you want to do! I would look at that as a sign from the man upstairs telling you to move on from that trailer. Good luck! Take care and God bless you all!
I would fix it. Use the bleach tear out and rebuild. Also build a front awning for further front leaks. A cover per say over the front edge so the water runs off it. Seal seal seal all the seams. Tighten up ALL the fastening. You have already done a lot. Along with waterproof under trailer too for moisture. Don’t forget bottom gets a lot road moisture. Don’t give up! Good luck!
Get her cut out Stan, The trailer has History and deserves to be saved..... chin up mate and get the screwdriver and power saw charged up and going ....you have plenty time just need to get the motivation back, we did not come here to watch you drive to a trailer dealer ....... get the brew on while you make the plan :-) what ya waiting for ?
My AC unit is on the sidewall. I just slide it in on a shelf when I'm traveling and put a cover over the hole. Similar to what they do on weeroll trailers.
Maybe he should make one of the windows big enough to hold the A/C. Take it out of the window and set on the floor while traveling, and close the window...just like at a house. Then, just put it back in the window when he gets to his destination. Or, buy a portable one and vent it to an existing window...then no lifting it in and out of the window.
I had a similar situation many years ago. I bought a class C without inspecting it properly and found the whole Cab over area had leaked around the front window which rotted and molded all the wood under the bed and the whole cab over area. I don't know how your trailer is constructed but in my situation I disassembled and removed all the wood working from the inside and did not disturb the sheet metal. I reframed and replaced all wood from the inside. I can't imagine that the sheet metal is structurally attached to the plywood in your trailer. I would go at it from the inside of the trailer and leave the outside alone only disassembling the one seam on the top that is leaking to reseal it. Once you have removed the moldy wood you can also seal up the metal on the inside with a rubberized coating. Don't give up on the trailer Just because you ran into a little hiccup. A little silicone can fix anything. 😎👍
Hey Stan what's up Man Listen I've been dealing with problems like this and gotta say although it is your trailer and yes its costly to buy a new trailer I'd go ahead if you know how to take it all down to the Bare walls and do the entire trailer because more than likely if its on one part its all over it
Buy the way, I like the way you plan on using the rear space to haul your toy. I have the same bike, but a 2007. they are not fast but will take a lot of abuse and just keep on running and easy to work on. And always make you smile when riding.
Fix what you have. You will then have what you know is a good start. Marine grade sealant will make the joints waterproof. On the air con, mount it in the back like you wanted to do. I did that on a project about 9 years ago. Instead of opening the door (especially when raining) I put a side vent on the drivers side and mounted to it a large fan from a computer power supply as a push fan. They draw very little power so you could have it on as a vent for the garage in case you spill gas, something else or even battery fumes. When my wife found that early or late season camping was too cold I then thought of a heat pump mounted as you discussed. She thought a "real" camper would be better.
Stan you could start a business building cargo trailers for people part time. Let them buy everything, just your labor?? Just a thought. You got a great shop to do it with. Cheer up!
Hey Stan, Gene from Oregon here. I would just repair, it's not that hard. I have done it. I replaced my front with polished aluminum diamond plate. If the wood is not rotten you could probably spray the hell out of it with bleach. Glad you are making videos again. Sorry to see the Motor coach go. I was so happy for you. Hang in there buddy!
And back a few days to your solar panel hold downs: For many years I raced high performance sailing catamarans. We used (stainless) Quick Release Marine Pins on shrouds needing very fast adjustments when lines were slack, yet not prone to accidental release. They are expensive, but would be perfect for your application. Use the version with the short attach cable or ring. "Monroe Engineering offers the finest Quick Release Marine Pins in both the "D" and "F" deluxe styles. The "D" Deluxe Style features a recessed button handle configuration to help prevent accidental depression of the button. Fashioned completely out of stainless steel , the one-handed release guarantees safe and fast operation. The unique ball locking action prevents accidental dislodging, even under extreme tension. "
I agree with most try to kill the mold and then I would look into spraying the front wall with a rhino liner to help with sound and future leaks. Windows look good. I want the bike
Not that much work to repair the mold and actually really don't have to go take it apart you can just bleach it they'll kill all the mold clean it up and they make a special paint to cover it. Or go with the new trailer with the heavy duty axles and whenever your duty frame might be the other best solution
Stan , remove all the sealant on the trim around the front of the trailer and re seal with Dycore sealant this is good stuff as for the mold and wood ,put on a face mask for your safety , remove the rotten wood ,mix up colorox and water, spray the area, down lower the nose of the trailer for water drainage and seal the inside ,remove the rust and re paint, good luck ,I"m also building a cargo conversion toy hauler trailer, maybe I will see you out at quartsite, Good Luck .
Stan , can you strip out all that insulation from the inside that you already have uncovered, then spray mould neutraliser in the cavity a few times then add new and cover back up, then reseal that cover strip on the outside in place you don’t have to take it off, scrape out the old sealant and lay a good bead of good waterproof sealer along the top of it job done
Keep the trailer. kill the mold. Mix a solution of one part bleach to three parts water and apply with a soft scrub brush. The mold will start to disappear. After gently scrubbing, with the solution, to remove the mold, let the wood dry completely. The stains may not completely disappear, but the mold will be dead and gone. Remove the rust coat on the steel with your preferred method and prime all surfaces. I've used this process on homes, trucks, and trailers with good success. Keep at it. Stay safe.
Kill the mold, seal it and back up the existing plywood from the inside with largest strips of plywood that will fit in between the steel framing. If concerned about side walls just rip a 6in strip of plywood around the top of the walls and inspect from that opening. Humans have been living around mold for centuries, the dangers are very overstated except for some who are specifically allergic
Damn, sorry for the mold problem. My vote is to replace the moldy plywood. Yes, it is a ton of work. But, I‘ve noticed that you are super efficient once you set your mind to it. Getting another trailer will amount to even more work taking everything out and then completely starting over. Sleep on it. Will help make the right decision.
Stan, i’m from elkhart indiana where they are all made and have owned several cargo trailers, they all leak after a couple of years depending upon the particular climate they are in, especially that front top transition from metal to lexan molding. remove bad insulation and wood and bleach it and kilz it and move on and be diligent on resealing the exterior every 6 months. these trailers are made to haul tools and such around not to live in, so reseal exterior regularly. Heck 5th wheels and motor coaches seem to start leaking around front window seal and slide outs after about 5 years bouncing down the road!
You have the ability and the time. I would fix it and while the front is disassembled, I would install a split unit airconditioner so you can hide most of the piping for it as well as for the proposed shower too.
We had a fifth wheel that we had to take the whole front off and replace it. It was rotten all the way through. It was a lot of work, but we never regretted it and used that fifth wheel for four years.
Fix it!!!! 1st problem - no one can come and pick up the old trailer 2nd problem - how long do you have to wait to take delivery of a new trailer at the moment. 1st solution - I fix my own problems 2nd solution - It's far more satisfying to know your work has made things better. Take the front off the trailer, reboard it and seal it yourself, Stan
Hi Stan. If I was in your situation, I would take it apart and redo the wood. I wouldn't go with the mould killer option. The wood looks a little too far gone for that. Sometimes these things are a little overwhelming at first, but once you dig in its not so bad. Good luck.
To add to what I wrote, if you were only going to use it for weekend trips and hauling things, no big thing, but since you plan on living in it, just get a trailer that will work a lot better for you and do it right the first time, instead of finding out later you have more problems! For 4k-6k you can probably find a real nice house trailer and make it yours with some simple mods then you are ready to go! Sell this one and get your 4k. You have the solar etc already for this that you can put on the other trailer so you won't have any additional major cost to speak of. You will end up with a lower total cost overall and have more than you would with this venture! You can always put a water tank in the back of your truck and I would suggest an electric water pump from harbor freight. they work excellent and would be much easier than trying to gravity feed it every time. Just flip a switch and it will be done quickly. I have seen some others go to nice clean rivers and drop a hose in the river and fill their tanks with mountain fresh drinking water with the little water pump from harbor freight and they pumped it uphill for about 100 feet to get it to their motorhome. Good luck! You know you could pick up a nice class A for around 4k also but nothing like your Prevost, it would be a gas engine and about 30k-50k miles on it which if taken care of would still be reliable and nice and last you many years! If I were you I would just pick up a nice older class A for under 6k and on the road you go with a really nice unit and not much invested. I am looking to a rear queen with a couch and dinette and have seen many for under 6k with around 30k-40k miles on them. Then I can tow my boat or jeep etc behind it depending on where we are going. I also put my enduro motorcycle on the back of it, in case we have a break down I have something to go get help. Whatever you decide to do, good luck to you! I really appreciate your videos! Thanks for sharing! Again, Take care and God bless you all!
You're build looks great,thank heavens you found it Stan . You have the time I would fix it you know what you have . If you by something else weather its used or new you might get something that might be loaded with different problems.
Just a suggestion if you decide to buy a new trailer, here are two guys with some of the best builds out there for some ideas, one guy, LB couldn't keep people away at the RTR from wanting to look at his trailer, their TH-cam names are LB RoVe and Mobile Off Grid Patriot, I thought of LB when you were talking about your water tank, he has something like what you're planning on doing, but anyway goodluck to you👍
Look up portable Room air conditioners, 8000 BTU. You can build it into a cabinet on the inside and the only opening required to go to the outside would be a simple cloths dryer vent on the side of the trailer. They also have the ability to hook up a hose to drain the condensation. I have one which I use in my Van and a Honda 2000 W generator will run it beautifully.
I agree with a lot of the viewers; fix the problem. That way you will know what you have and that it has been done right. You have no guarantee that a new trailer won't have some other issue. I also agree with the gentleman who said to mount the A/C window unit in the back. You can add a bracket or platform to stabilize it and not have it effect the "wind drag" on the front of the trailer when driving.
Keep the trailer, replace the wood or kill and seal in the moldy parts. I would not cut a big hole for a window AC in the front (it just creates more places where water could to come in), particularly when driving down the road in rain. Since you got the ramp in the back I can see the problem if fitting a window unit, but have you thought about a small split unit? You could probably mount the condenser on the trailer tongue and just run the relatively small duct work to the inside (maybe even through the floor, which would lower the chance of water intrusion).
Thats a bummer Stan, first thought I had was even if you traded for another trailer, it could still have leak issues and mold. If you think you can handle the rebuild, that seems like a more down stream way to go then undoing all your work and still having to fix it up to sell then find a replacement that isn't leaking and starting all over. Sorry it had to go this way for ya, but better to find it now while you can fix it, then to build it out completely and then find it. I agree that a rear AC makes more sense, and you can add vents or windows on the back end somewhere to help ventilate so you don't have to open the door. Best of luck to ya what ever you decide to do.
Hi Stan.. spray the mold and kill it. then seal it with paint. split air con and hide the pipes in the wall before inside lining so u do not have to see them. thats what i did.
First thing you should do is clean up that pretty face!! You startin to look like camo Dave and that ain't good sasnak.. Second thing I believe is to try and keep it simple but make it strong with what you got..The roads in this country are RUFF !! Hope to see you again next year with Rhett the flying Canadian.. Daytona bch here.
I’m with a couple others. Ask long as the axles and bearing and everything else is fine on the trailer then Kill the mold with a heavy bleach solution. Let it dry good. Try to soak behind the wood as well. Then let it dry really good. Don’t worry about what’s left behind. Then seal it in with plastic sheathing. Remove that strip on the outside and caulk good behind it. Move on. As far as the a/c unit front mount is OK. Just build a wooden removable cover for it and remove it when camper.
Morning Stan! Repair what you have. New doesn't equal good quality. If you do the repair you will have confidence in the quality of the work. Case in point...I bought a Newmar 5th wheel. Top name in quality RVs. It leaks. I've removed walls, sub floor sections, windows etc. PITA! When I'm done I know I'll be leak free for a few more years. Cargo trailers have even less quality. It's just the nature of the beast. PS. bleach does not kill mold spores. Only ammonia will do that. Get the lemon scent ammonia it's not as offensive to the nose but it still stinks. Run a strong fan while you do the clean up.
Hi Stan, I just ordered a millenium trailer for the can am and a mobile shop for my Yamaha outboard business. I shopped like crazy and they seem to have the best prices overall and will customize it any way you want. I got carried away and spent 13k for a highly customized 20" with 5200 lb axles. I agree used trailers are almost as much as new when you compare features. F.Y.I. I still am selling battleborns for 849. delivered
I wouldn’t put the window unit facing into the wind. Before you know it the whole core of the thing will be plugged up with bugs like the radiator on your car gets. My vote is put it in the back like you had planned! If the plywood is still sound spray mold killer on everything and put a good coat of oil base paint over it and reseal that strip and carry-on. If you got a flat roof trailer I would think those have more of a chance of leaking eventually than your curved roof trailer would
Most of the nation is dodging a virus but Big Stan is having spore issues...something isn't right in Texas! I can offer no advice Big Stan but I will say this...you always make the right decisions and this issue is no different. I'm glad you did all your cussin before you recorded the video! Hang in there cowboy! 🤠
Here is another 2 cents. Put the AC on the back wall inside. You said you will not use it much. Make sure you have a drain for the condensation. Leave the back door open when you might run it, even if it is just ajar. Insulate the inside wall well. Fix the leak on the front. I just had to fix a leak from a window on my rig. Plus, it will look dumb with an AC unit sticking out the front. Remember, how much time you are going to have it running. Not much, put it inside the back. -Bob PS. Treat the mold with anti microbial from Lowe’s or Home Depot. It does not look that bad.
I would go back to the original plan of installing the window a/c inside. Add a rooftop fan over the garage area with a closable air intake louver in one wall at the floor line for cross intake air that will power vent the a/c hot air out. Put a closable thru wall louver, up high, to the living area and use the fan on mild days to pull the heat out of the cabin area with the a/c off and the garage air louver closed
Get you a stand up air conditioner. You would only need a small hole for an exhaust. The water collects in a drip pan. Spray the wall with bleach and water solution and let it air out. Seal the leak. You could even put a tarp over the front cap while you were camping for extra protection.
Stan I was the bloke that told you to put one water tank in the truck. Sorry to see the problem with the mold mate I suggest that you contact that trailer mob and see what they can do for you because that trailer by the looks of it has not done much work Maybe something to think about mate Cheers Jack from Australia
Neutralize the mold, prevent it by painting with mold inhibitor and finish the build. If you still don't like it you can always sell it and build another one with a flat roof later. Besides, selling now would mean violating social distancing orders from our glorious leaders :)
Treat mold, remediation, and if needed repair the structure. Opportunity to modify the wall to hold the ac unit, but if it was me I'd fix it and go with mini split with heat pump function.
Like several said, fix it. You have done an awful lot of work already to consider undoing it and starting over. Learning to fix leaks and rot and mold in a trailer is good knowledge to have and pass on to us (via your channel). I wouldn't remove the outside metal and replace the wood panels. You can kill the mold, fix the leak, and repair the wood with wood filler. They make wood filler specially to repair wood rot. Hell, while you are in there, double up on the strength of the wall for the AC window and add 3X insulation. Its a good thing you found it now, before you got sick after traveling in it for months.
I vote stay with this project. My impression from the beginning was you were going to take what you have and convert to a simple RV style vehicle. I think the abatement comments have merit. Selling anything now I would think would be challenging. You’ve got a lot of blood, sweat and tears in this project so far. Plus minimal investment. Good luck.
When I watched this video I got a distinct feeling of Deja vu...like I seen it all before. I seem to know what Big Stan is going to say and even what he is going to do...its inexplicable but these are inexplicable times! 😉
Stan even a new trailer may require you to take apart and reseal the whole thing as I follow another cargo conversion and they had to do just that on their’s and it was brand new when they started but wasn’t sealed that well at factory. You just never know. So the commenters that encourage you to deal with the mold are probably saving you time and money. Good luck in whatever you do.
Hey Stan, if you were thinking of having the trailer for a long time then it would probably be better to trade the old one in and go for the ideal trailer for what you need. It's probably the same amount of work to move the solar panels from the old trailer to a brand new one as it is repairing the mould situation.
I would replace the plywood and seal it back with silicon caulk around the outside. Maybe pressure treated so you wont get termites. By the way the beard looks amazing on you
At least if you repair it yourself you know it will be right . Everything is built so cheap nowadays that there is no guarantee that a new one won’t leak. You have the knowledge, and the time to do it right. And the expense shouldn’t be that much. Besides I don’t think you are the type of guy to close that up and sell it to someone without telling them about it , then the price goes way down. Best of luck with witch ever you decide.
Well if you think that you can do it yourself without killing yourself, go ahead and knock it out. But it is a tough market to sell, it will not be fun having 2 trailers.... fix this and use it and see if you like sleeping in there.
IMO ...I would sale that one and buy a different one . You can get cargo trailers now that have windows if you want and even built in AC that is designed for them and they are reasonably priced . Plus you can but what you want shape wise . Another option would be to just buy you a small used camper ready to go or you could get one that needs remodeling if you want a project . We camped for a lot of years at NASCAR in a 24ft pull behind camper and loved it .....Looking forward to see what you choose ....
The plywood with that much mold is ruined probably delaminated. You would never get all the mold. Replace the plywood and recaulk with the best calk you can find and make it part of your preventive maintenance, just my opinion. Great Channel!
Keep the trailer you have and kill the mold. If the wood is still in good shape take a solution of one part bleach and three parts water and apply it generously with a soft bristle brush. Let the wood completely air dry and your mold will be dead. Clean up the metal and apply a primer of your choice. Since you have the time for this project but not a bunch of money this would be the plan.
Since the leak is at the top edge of the plywood, I would worry that there is mold on the back of the sheet, as well as front, so would need to come out. Mitigate. You have a ‘whistle’ sound inhaling....please wear a suitable mask while in that enclosed area. A question... having the weight of the water tank on one side could cause some instability perhaps?
Stan just pull that insulation out, spray with bleach scrub and let dry, then paint it with Klins then put new insulation in and new plywood all set. Fix and reseal the trim and around the lights. Check around the top of the rest of the trailer to see if there are more places like that need to be repaired. Keep up the great videos.
I just keep the old trailer take it apart since you do you have anything else to do if it don't then you might as well just tear it apart and replace it sometimes the older trailers Are Better Built than the newer enjoy watching your videos stand glad to meet you again sometime
Good morning Stan, I've seen the quality of your work. You can do this, and rest easy afterwards. Buying new or new used especially right now isn't a good idea. Looking forward to the next video, trust in yourself and the Lord with all your heart. We aren't the ones who have to live with the outcome.
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Spray the mold with diluted bleach and water to kill the mold, dry it throughly, seal the plywood with some Kilz and fix the leak. Then move on with the build Stan.
John R I agree! .. that trailer is paid for! Spray it, fix it , drive on! 🍻
Stan, I would make sure you have no mold any where else in the walls. Yes, that would mean un-building what you have done and removing the inner plywood, but then you would know that the whole trailer is good to go. Good luck and happy building.
Mold killer spray works great.
I like the "spray, dry, seal" option as well. It's most time efficient. Alternatively, it seems like you could sell this one and buy a used regular travel trailer for that $6500 you mentioned.
Tim Shields that’s what I think too 👍
Here’s my 2 cents: In the beginning, you said you wouldn’t have to spend much money, just time and you had plenty of that. I say stick with that plan - spend your time repairing the problem instead of spending your money on a new trailer!
A new trailer with probably the same old leaky problem
I do agree. As a plumber, I have seen, been around lots of mold. Lawyers waaaaay over hyped mold, easy money.
Strip that insulation, bleach wash it a few times, leave it open for a few weeks. Rework that area for better fit & seal.
If it was me I would just fix it. You've already planned on using that trailer so I wouldn't stop using it. Besides you've got the frame work in and the windows in. So I would fix it and find a better sealant than what the manufacturer used.
Hi stan, hello america. This may be a omen ,but I think you may want to revisit the idea of a bluebird . With your skills and work space and all the parts and accessory's you have, you could have a killer bus for 10,000 USD. It will last a lifetime and you will be supper comfortable and happy because you built it out yourself . Iam here to help ya as always.
I would rather have the curved roof,I would fix the trailer or maybe spray the mold and kill it.
I don’t think that window units were designed with seventy mile an hour winds in mind. Go for the rear installation.
In the front location you will want to cover the unit to keep the coils from getting plugged up with dead bugs as you drive. A draw string bag would take care of that. In the front location condensation will just drip outside on the ground. In the rear location you will need some type of pan to catch the condensation and plumb that water outside.
It's good to see you're doing more videos. It keeps the story fresh for us viewers. And you show people can do things when they are shut up in stay at home situations.
Redo the front, then you will know what you have. And Your old trailer is made better than the new ......You may end out with the same thing. But now you have made yours, and you know all holes are filled up. And NO mold.
Stan, look into an ozone generator. 120$ on Amazon. You plug it in and run it for an hour and it kills the mold. Then seal the leak and you’re good to go. I just bought one. It’s worth it’s weight in gold. Good luck.
I second this idea, also a local car detailer probably has one and with the current situation would probably let you rent it from them.
Put on a mask, neutralize the mold with bleach and baking soda then scrub. After you've done that assess if the plywood needs replaced. If the plywood is good then just let it thoroughly dry and carry on. If the plywood does need replaced then it's really up to you whether or not it's worth the effort or if a replacement is in order. Although I would be concerned about the addition of the windows affecting trade in/resale value. Also not sure about using the window AC unit at all. Doubt it would work well inside and I wouldn't feel comfortable exposing it to the highway, I doubt the water would be a problem, but dust, debris, and severe wind might be. I'm sure you will figure it out, you always do. God bless you and remember to have fun, it's just a project.
Windows look great!!
That Prevost is probably looking better and better by the way nice bike
I vote for fixing what you have. Neutralize the mold, then encapsulate it with a mold fighting product, then reseal the entire area.
Mold can be deadly...Don’t mess with it. Get rid of the trailer...Love the beard
Ya fix it and show us all how to fix mold inside a trailer/rv works. There are people like me out there that want a real, down to earth take on how to do it.
Stan ... I was a Sailboat Carpenter for years .... My personal advice ... Get some GOOD rubber gloves, in a 5 gallon bucket, fill it about half way with clean warm water, ADD 16 oz. of bleach ... out on some GOOD safety goggles, and a hand brush with stiff bristles.... Thoroughly CEAN the effected area ... do NOT rinse it ... go to Home depot, rent a blower/dryer for $22 bucks, let it run in there blowing air through it for 12 - 16 hours ... then leave it sit for another 3 days...
Go purchase a quart size kit of Good marine grade fiberglass resin, and 3 4" paint brushes, .. Lay out a heavy drop cloth, and mix the resin, then apply a n even coat on the area, SEALING IT FOREVER... And giving the plywood new strength/life in the process .... Garranteed the BEST fix, with the least hassel !!!
Bleach it, Dry it well, seal it, paint it, fix the leak, then sell it and get a new trailer that will work a lot better for what you want to do! I would look at that as a sign from the man upstairs telling you to move on from that trailer. Good luck! Take care and God bless you all!
I would fix it. Use the bleach tear out and rebuild. Also build a front awning for further front leaks. A cover per say over the front edge so the water runs off it. Seal seal seal all the seams. Tighten up ALL the fastening. You have already done a lot. Along with waterproof under trailer too for moisture. Don’t forget bottom gets a lot road moisture. Don’t give up! Good luck!
You keep the Prevost.
Pam will thank you. ❤
Be safe during these troubling times in our lives. ❤
Get her cut out Stan, The trailer has History and deserves to be saved..... chin up mate and get the screwdriver and power saw charged up and going ....you have plenty time just need to get the motivation back, we did not come here to watch you drive to a trailer dealer ....... get the brew on while you make the plan :-) what ya waiting for ?
My AC unit is on the sidewall. I just slide it in on a shelf when I'm traveling and put a cover over the hole.
Similar to what they do on weeroll trailers.
Maybe he should make one of the windows big enough to hold the A/C. Take it out of the window and set on the floor while traveling, and close the window...just like at a house. Then, just put it back in the window when he gets to his destination. Or, buy a portable one and vent it to an existing window...then no lifting it in and out of the window.
tree feller Great idea!!
Yaaahoooooooo a KLR!!!! Welcome to the dual sport club. I have a CRF250l and a V-Strom.
I had a similar situation many years ago. I bought a class C without inspecting it properly and found the whole Cab over area had leaked around the front window which rotted and molded all the wood under the bed and the whole cab over area. I don't know how your trailer is constructed but in my situation I disassembled and removed all the wood working from the inside and did not disturb the sheet metal. I reframed and replaced all wood from the inside. I can't imagine that the sheet metal is structurally attached to the plywood in your trailer. I would go at it from the inside of the trailer and leave the outside alone only disassembling the one seam on the top that is leaking to reseal it. Once you have removed the moldy wood you can also seal up the metal on the inside with a rubberized coating. Don't give up on the trailer Just because you ran into a little hiccup. A little silicone can fix anything. 😎👍
Hey Stan what's up Man Listen I've been dealing with problems like this and gotta say although it is your trailer and yes its costly to buy a new trailer I'd go ahead if you know how to take it all down to the Bare walls and do the entire trailer because more than likely if its on one part its all over it
I'd fix it. That thing is all screwed together and can be repaired pretty easily compared to a traditional rv trailer. Btw, those windows look great!
Thanks for sharing 🤠
Morning fella fix that one hell a new one leak as well👍🙏🏼🙏🏼
New sub .. Saw your video about shifting gears and was hooked.
Buy the way, I like the way you plan on using the rear space to haul your toy. I have the same bike, but a 2007. they are not fast but will take a lot of abuse and just keep on running and easy to work on. And always make you smile when riding.
Fix what you have. You will then have what you know is a good start. Marine grade sealant will make the joints waterproof. On the air con, mount it in the back like you wanted to do. I did that on a project about 9 years ago. Instead of opening the door (especially when raining) I put a side vent on the drivers side and mounted to it a large fan from a computer power supply as a push fan. They draw very little power so you could have it on as a vent for the garage in case you spill gas, something else or even battery fumes.
When my wife found that early or late season camping was too cold I then thought of a heat pump mounted as you discussed. She thought a "real" camper would be better.
I would re build the front of the trailer from top to bottom and keep hammering down with the game plan you had envisioned on this trailer.
Stan you could start a business building cargo trailers for people part time. Let them buy everything, just your labor?? Just a thought. You got a great shop to do it with. Cheer up!
Sasnak Specialty Trailers SST
Hey Stan, Gene from Oregon here. I would just repair, it's not that hard. I have done it. I replaced my front with polished aluminum diamond plate. If the wood is not rotten you could probably spray the hell out of it with bleach. Glad you are making videos again. Sorry to see the Motor coach go. I was so happy for you. Hang in there buddy!
And back a few days to your solar panel hold downs: For many years I raced high performance sailing catamarans.
We used (stainless) Quick Release Marine Pins on shrouds needing very fast adjustments when lines were slack, yet not prone to accidental release.
They are expensive, but would be perfect for your application. Use the version with the short attach cable or ring.
"Monroe Engineering offers the finest Quick Release Marine Pins in both the "D" and "F" deluxe styles. The "D" Deluxe Style features a recessed button handle configuration to help prevent accidental depression of the button. Fashioned completely out of stainless steel , the one-handed release guarantees safe and fast operation. The unique ball locking action prevents accidental dislodging, even under extreme tension. "
Fix that trailer. Chances are a new trailer may have leaks. Old saying, want it done right do it yourself.
Well I can see you have already cut the windows in, got solar in, so off with the front and replace it.
I agree with most try to kill the mold and then I would look into spraying the front wall with a rhino liner to help with sound and future leaks. Windows look good. I want the bike
Not that much work to repair the mold and actually really don't have to go take it apart you can just bleach it they'll kill all the mold clean it up and they make a special paint to cover it. Or go with the new trailer with the heavy duty axles and whenever your duty frame might be the other best solution
Stan , remove all the sealant on the trim around the front of the trailer and re seal with Dycore sealant this is good stuff as for the mold and wood ,put on a face mask for your safety , remove the rotten wood ,mix up colorox and water, spray the area, down lower the nose of the trailer for water drainage and seal the inside ,remove the rust and re paint, good luck ,I"m also building a cargo conversion toy hauler trailer, maybe I will see you out at quartsite, Good Luck .
Stan , can you strip out all that insulation from the inside that you already have uncovered, then spray mould neutraliser in the cavity a few times then add new and cover back up, then reseal that cover strip on the outside in place you don’t have to take it off, scrape out the old sealant and lay a good bead of good waterproof sealer along the top of it job done
Keep the trailer. kill the mold. Mix a solution of one part bleach to three parts water and apply with a soft scrub brush. The mold will start to disappear. After gently scrubbing, with the solution, to remove the mold, let the wood dry completely. The stains may not completely disappear, but the mold will be dead and gone. Remove the rust coat on the steel with your preferred method and prime all surfaces. I've used this process on homes, trucks, and trailers with good success. Keep at it. Stay safe.
Kill the mold, seal it and back up the existing plywood from the inside with largest strips of plywood that will fit in between the steel framing. If concerned about side walls just rip a 6in strip of plywood around the top of the walls and inspect from that opening. Humans have been living around mold for centuries, the dangers are very overstated except for some who are specifically allergic
Damn, sorry for the mold problem. My vote is to replace the moldy plywood. Yes, it is a ton of work. But, I‘ve noticed that you are super efficient once you set your mind to it. Getting another trailer will amount to even more work taking everything out and then completely starting over. Sleep on it. Will help make the right decision.
Stan, i’m from elkhart indiana where they are all made and have owned several cargo trailers, they all leak after a couple of years depending upon the particular climate they are in, especially that front top transition from metal to lexan molding. remove bad insulation and wood and bleach it and kilz it and move on and be diligent on resealing the exterior every 6 months. these trailers are made to haul tools and such around not to live in, so reseal exterior regularly. Heck 5th wheels and motor coaches seem to start leaking around front window seal and slide outs after about 5 years bouncing down the road!
You have the ability and the time. I would fix it and while the front is disassembled, I would install a split unit airconditioner so you can hide most of the piping for it as well as for the proposed shower too.
Love the KLR. I have a 2008.
Fix the wall and then install a mini slit ac unit. My neighbor did in his and loves it.
Keep it scruffy 😂😂😂You have the time now besides you'd probably regret buying a new one , use your talents that you know are within you 👍💪😎🌵🌴
We had a fifth wheel that we had to take the whole front off and replace it. It was rotten all the way through. It was a lot of work, but we never regretted it and used that fifth wheel for four years.
Fix your trailer😍🌈🏴❤️
Fix it!!!!
1st problem - no one can come and pick up the old trailer
2nd problem - how long do you have to wait to take delivery of a new trailer at the moment.
1st solution - I fix my own problems
2nd solution - It's far more satisfying to know your work has made things better.
Take the front off the trailer, reboard it and seal it yourself, Stan
Hi Stan. If I was in your situation, I would take it apart and redo the wood. I wouldn't go with the mould killer option. The wood looks a little too far gone for that. Sometimes these things are a little overwhelming at first, but once you dig in its not so bad. Good luck.
To add to what I wrote, if you were only going to use it for weekend trips and hauling things, no big thing, but since you plan on living in it, just get a trailer that will work a lot better for you and do it right the first time, instead of finding out later you have more problems! For 4k-6k you can probably find a real nice house trailer and make it yours with some simple mods then you are ready to go! Sell this one and get your 4k. You have the solar etc already for this that you can put on the other trailer so you won't have any additional major cost to speak of. You will end up with a lower total cost overall and have more than you would with this venture! You can always put a water tank in the back of your truck and I would suggest an electric water pump from harbor freight. they work excellent and would be much easier than trying to gravity feed it every time. Just flip a switch and it will be done quickly. I have seen some others go to nice clean rivers and drop a hose in the river and fill their tanks with mountain fresh drinking water with the little water pump from harbor freight and they pumped it uphill for about 100 feet to get it to their motorhome. Good luck! You know you could pick up a nice class A for around 4k also but nothing like your Prevost, it would be a gas engine and about 30k-50k miles on it which if taken care of would still be reliable and nice and last you many years! If I were you I would just pick up a nice older class A for under 6k and on the road you go with a really nice unit and not much invested. I am looking to a rear queen with a couch and dinette and have seen many for under 6k with around 30k-40k miles on them. Then I can tow my boat or jeep etc behind it depending on where we are going. I also put my enduro motorcycle on the back of it, in case we have a break down I have something to go get help. Whatever you decide to do, good luck to you! I really appreciate your videos! Thanks for sharing! Again, Take care and God bless you all!
You're build looks great,thank heavens you found it Stan . You have the time I would fix it you know what you have . If you by something else weather its used or new you might get something that might be loaded with different problems.
Just a suggestion if you decide to buy a new trailer, here are two guys with some of the best builds out there for some ideas, one guy, LB couldn't keep people away at the RTR from wanting to look at his trailer, their TH-cam names are LB RoVe and Mobile Off Grid Patriot, I thought of LB when you were talking about your water tank, he has something like what you're planning on doing, but anyway goodluck to you👍
LB has a well thought out design.
@@mpeters7044 True, his murphy bed and solar hookup won me over👍
Look up portable Room air conditioners, 8000 BTU. You can build it into a cabinet on the inside and the only opening required to go to the outside would be a simple cloths dryer vent on the side of the trailer. They also have the ability to hook up a hose to drain the condensation. I have one which I use in my Van and a Honda 2000 W generator will run it beautifully.
I agree with a lot of the viewers; fix the problem. That way you will know what you have and that it has been done right. You have no guarantee that a new trailer won't have some other issue. I also agree with the gentleman who said to mount the A/C window unit in the back. You can add a bracket or platform to stabilize it and not have it effect the "wind drag" on the front of the trailer when driving.
Keep the trailer, replace the wood or kill and seal in the moldy parts. I would not cut a big hole for a window AC in the front (it just creates more places where water could to come in), particularly when driving down the road in rain. Since you got the ramp in the back I can see the problem if fitting a window unit, but have you thought about a small split unit? You could probably mount the condenser on the trailer tongue and just run the relatively small duct work to the inside (maybe even through the floor, which would lower the chance of water intrusion).
Thats a bummer Stan, first thought I had was even if you traded for another trailer, it could still have leak issues and mold. If you think you can handle the rebuild, that seems like a more down stream way to go then undoing all your work and still having to fix it up to sell then find a replacement that isn't leaking and starting all over. Sorry it had to go this way for ya, but better to find it now while you can fix it, then to build it out completely and then find it. I agree that a rear AC makes more sense, and you can add vents or windows on the back end somewhere to help ventilate so you don't have to open the door. Best of luck to ya what ever you decide to do.
Keep on your original plan.. minor setback but keep looking forward!! Fix the mold issue and push forward. That my 2 cents 👍👍
Hi Stan.. spray the mold and kill it. then seal it with paint. split air con and hide the pipes in the wall before inside lining so u do not have to see them. thats what i did.
First thing you should do is clean up that pretty face!! You startin to look like camo Dave and that ain't good sasnak.. Second thing I believe is to try and keep it simple but make it strong with what you got..The roads in this country are RUFF !! Hope to see you again next year with Rhett the flying Canadian.. Daytona bch here.
I’m with a couple others. Ask long as the axles and bearing and everything else is fine on the trailer then Kill the mold with a heavy bleach solution. Let it dry good. Try to soak behind the wood as well. Then let it dry really good. Don’t worry about what’s left behind. Then seal it in with plastic sheathing. Remove that strip on the outside and caulk good behind it. Move on. As far as the a/c unit front mount is OK. Just build a wooden removable cover for it and remove it when camper.
Well well well! Everything happens for a reason.
Go get what you really want.
Morning Stan! Repair what you have. New doesn't equal good quality. If you do the repair you will have confidence in the quality of the work. Case in point...I bought a Newmar 5th wheel. Top name in quality RVs. It leaks. I've removed walls, sub floor sections, windows etc. PITA! When I'm done I know I'll be leak free for a few more years. Cargo trailers have even less quality. It's just the nature of the beast. PS. bleach does not kill mold spores. Only ammonia will do that. Get the lemon scent ammonia it's not as offensive to the nose but it still stinks. Run a strong fan while you do the clean up.
When you get all the cocking back in after the fronts been pulled apart I would double seal it
Hi Stan, I just ordered a millenium trailer for the can am and a mobile shop for my Yamaha outboard business. I shopped like crazy and they seem to have the best prices overall and will customize it any way you want. I got carried away and spent 13k for a highly customized 20" with 5200 lb axles. I agree used trailers are almost as much as new when you compare features. F.Y.I. I still am selling battleborns for 849. delivered
Stan you didnt give the bus a fighting chance. First chance you got to go back to trucking you jumped on it.
I wouldn’t put the window unit facing into the wind. Before you know it the whole core of the thing will be plugged up with bugs like the radiator on your car gets. My vote is put it in the back like you had planned! If the plywood is still sound spray mold killer on everything and put a good coat of oil base paint over it and reseal that strip and carry-on. If you got a flat roof trailer I would think those have more of a chance of leaking eventually than your curved roof trailer would
Most of the nation is dodging a virus but Big Stan is having spore issues...something isn't right in Texas! I can offer no advice Big Stan but I will say this...you always make the right decisions and this issue is no different. I'm glad you did all your cussin before you recorded the video! Hang in there cowboy! 🤠
I'm with John R bleach it let it dry and voila. As long as it has structural integrity. If not wrap the front yourself.
Here is another 2 cents. Put the AC on the back wall inside. You said you will not use it much. Make sure you have a drain for the condensation. Leave the back door open when you might run it, even if it is just ajar. Insulate the inside wall well. Fix the leak on the front. I just had to fix a leak from a window on my rig. Plus, it will look dumb with an AC unit sticking out the front. Remember, how much time you are going to have it running. Not much, put it inside the back. -Bob
PS. Treat the mold with anti microbial from Lowe’s or Home Depot. It does not look that bad.
Research DIY mold killer.
Bleach in a spray bottle or straight vinegar. It kills it! Won't come back!
I would go back to the original plan of installing the window a/c inside. Add a rooftop fan over the garage area with a closable air intake louver in one wall at the floor line for cross intake air that will power vent the a/c hot air out. Put a closable thru wall louver, up high, to the living area and use the fan on mild days to pull the heat out of the cabin area with the a/c off and the garage air louver closed
Get you a stand up air conditioner. You would only need a small hole for an exhaust. The water collects in a drip pan. Spray the wall with bleach and water solution and let it air out. Seal the leak. You could even put a tarp over the front cap while you were camping for extra protection.
Stan I was the bloke that told you to put one water tank in the truck. Sorry to see the problem with the mold mate I suggest that you contact that trailer mob and see what they can do for you because that trailer by the looks of it has not done much work Maybe something to think about mate Cheers Jack from Australia
Neutralize the mold, prevent it by painting with mold inhibitor and finish the build. If you still don't like it you can always sell it and build another one with a flat roof later. Besides, selling now would mean violating social distancing orders from our glorious leaders :)
Hey Stan,
Alway's Perfect,
V MAN
Treat mold, remediation, and if needed repair the structure. Opportunity to modify the wall to hold the ac unit, but if it was me I'd fix it and go with mini split with heat pump function.
Like several said, fix it. You have done an awful lot of work already to consider undoing it and starting over. Learning to fix leaks and rot and mold in a trailer is good knowledge to have and pass on to us (via your channel). I wouldn't remove the outside metal and replace the wood panels. You can kill the mold, fix the leak, and repair the wood with wood filler. They make wood filler specially to repair wood rot. Hell, while you are in there, double up on the strength of the wall for the AC window and add 3X insulation. Its a good thing you found it now, before you got sick after traveling in it for months.
I vote stay with this project. My impression from the beginning was you were going to take what you have and convert to a simple RV style vehicle. I think the abatement comments have merit. Selling anything now I would think would be challenging. You’ve got a lot of blood, sweat and tears in this project so far. Plus minimal investment. Good luck.
When I watched this video I got a distinct feeling of Deja vu...like I seen it all before. I seem to know what Big Stan is going to say and even what he is going to do...its inexplicable but these are inexplicable times! 😉
LOL
Get rid of the mold n keep go in with the build. My suggestion on the A C is mount in th back
Stan even a new trailer may require you to take apart and reseal the whole thing as I follow another cargo conversion and they had to do just that on their’s and it was brand new when they started but wasn’t sealed that well at factory. You just never know. So the commenters that encourage you to deal with the mold are probably saving you time and money. Good luck in whatever you do.
Hey Stan, if you were thinking of having the trailer for a long time then it would probably be better to trade the old one in and go for the ideal trailer for what you need. It's probably the same amount of work to move the solar panels from the old trailer to a brand new one as it is repairing the mould situation.
I would replace the plywood and seal it back with silicon caulk around the outside. Maybe pressure treated so you wont get termites. By the way the beard looks amazing on you
At least if you repair it yourself you know it will be right . Everything is built so cheap nowadays that there is no guarantee that a new one won’t leak. You have the knowledge, and the time to do it right. And the expense shouldn’t be that much. Besides I don’t think you are the type of guy to close that up and sell it to someone without telling them about it , then the price goes way down. Best of luck with witch ever you decide.
Well if you think that you can do it yourself without killing yourself, go ahead and knock it out. But it is a tough market to sell, it will not be fun having 2 trailers.... fix this and use it and see if you like sleeping in there.
Now is the time to work on stuff there is nothing else to do with the free time
IMO ...I would sale that one and buy a different one . You can get cargo trailers now that have windows if you want and even built in AC that is designed for them and they are reasonably priced . Plus you can but what you want shape wise . Another option would be to just buy you a small used camper ready to go or you could get one that needs remodeling if you want a project . We camped for a lot of years at NASCAR in a 24ft pull behind camper and loved it .....Looking forward to see what you choose ....
The plywood with that much mold is ruined probably delaminated. You would never get all the mold. Replace the plywood and recaulk with the best calk you can find and make it part of your preventive maintenance, just my opinion. Great Channel!
Keep the trailer you have and kill the mold. If the wood is still in good shape take a solution of one part bleach and three parts water and apply it generously with a soft bristle brush. Let the wood completely air dry and your mold will be dead. Clean up the metal and apply a primer of your choice. Since you have the time for this project but not a bunch of money this would be the plan.
Since the leak is at the top edge of the plywood, I would worry that there is mold on the back of the sheet, as well as front, so would need to come out. Mitigate.
You have a ‘whistle’ sound inhaling....please wear a suitable mask while in that enclosed area.
A question... having the weight of the water tank on one side could cause some instability perhaps?
Stan just pull that insulation out, spray with bleach scrub and let dry, then paint it with Klins then put new insulation in and new plywood all set. Fix and reseal the trim and around the lights. Check around the top of the rest of the trailer to see if there are more places like that need to be repaired. Keep up the great videos.
Just keep the old trailer and continue upgrading it. For sure you need a helping hand with the repair.
Stan, contact a water damage company , someone who deals with mold in a house and ask them for suggestions!
You have the time. Tear it apart and do it right!! Don't get upset. There is always shit that happens when doing projects. Stick with it Stan.
I just keep the old trailer take it apart since you do you have anything else to do if it don't then you might as well just tear it apart and replace it sometimes the older trailers Are Better Built than the newer enjoy watching your videos stand glad to meet you again sometime
Spray foam over mold , it will lock mold in. ..or new trailer , yep new trailer !
Good morning Stan, I've seen the quality of your work. You can do this, and rest easy afterwards. Buying new or new used especially right now isn't a good idea. Looking forward to the next video, trust in yourself and the Lord with all your heart. We aren't the ones who have to live with the outcome.
Fix what you got. You’ll know it’s done right and you have the time for the sweat equity. 👍