Smart. I personally would have tied the internal courses in to the exterior, but every bricky has their own ways. Glad to see you enjoy what you do. I wouldn’t change my job for anything 👍🏽 keep it up.
I like your style. I might adapt some of some of your techniques! I'm a brick mason at a technical school and I would love to do masonry for the rest of my life!
I really want to build my on one and I am so scared of asking to someone who doesn't know for safety reasons hope your video helps me, greetings from Mexico.
Might have been nice to see a lead DPC going in at the correct level . Thus stopping wet penetration being dragged down below the roof line by gravity and also some expanded metal or SS ties to bond the inner flues to the outer skins .
They are optional, every chimney that hasn't got a lead dpc tray in doesn't have that problem (water penetrating the stack into roof space and down onto ceiling)! most chimneys haven't got them.. lead trays also have their faults! Usually water penetration is poor capping, no corbeling and damaged lead flashing...
Granted. Why not build tray in as a fail safe though? Piece of four pound through that stack at the right height could save a lot of future heart ache. I only guarantee to stop a stack leaking by putting one in combined with correct flashings etc.
Hi, is it necessary to tie in the bricks with steel rods? I’ve had some builders say yes and some no. Wasn’t sure if just personal preference or guidelines.
The chimney may only be for decoration, but i am sure its not going to fall down , the centre divider is locked in ,i always render as i lay and i use a waterproofer in the mortar and they stay dry ,unless you use stainless ties you can get more problems from rusting ties
stack opposite corners when doing your corbels at the top then you end up with 2 maybe 3 3 quarters instead of a Lil 2 inch peice you know. good videos I live it the USA so we do stuff different but good job interesting. such as we lay the frogs down. lol the indent in the brick we call frogs. what do u mates call em
Hi, is it necessary to tie in the bricks with steel rods? I’ve had some builders say yes and some no. Wasn’t sure if just personal preference or guidelines. This is re a chimney stack with total of 13 rows
Nice Job Chris, you choose a solid brick which looks very nice. For chimney rebuilds can you also use 3 hole brick or should chimneys always have solid brick? I have seen both which is why I'm asking.
evnmny evnmny Answered this kind of question previously...All chimney's have queen closures, go out and look on any chimney stack.... Could you put a demo vid on and show me how it's done, look forward to seeing your effort🤔
evnmny evnmny Cobblers, standard practice as 3/4 bricks through the bond out....This is how the glorious Victorians did it and their chimneys are still working today lol... Again, boot put me a vid of you showing us how you'd do it
once you’ve squared it at the first course it will keep square as you plumb all sides and as you build use a large square the ones roofers use and keep putting it on your corners as you progress. Also you could set up profiles which you usually see on building sites and they will help! Hope that helps- Good luck in your chimney build
There should be a small door somewhere at the bottom of the chimney. Look for it and if you can't find it call a professional chimney sweep because it must be cleaned and that's where you take the soot out. Have him inspect it while he's there.
Hi, no the lead goes in after the chimney is built up. The joints are raked out as the chimney is built. The lead soakers are added along with the tiles and then the stringers and apron is added and the final touch is the fitting of the ridges.
All this crap about no lead doc trays .I've just been working on a new estate and theses are no Mickey mouse houses and not a single dpc tray in chimney stacks anywhere. If old chimney stacks I've worked on and are over 200 years old and no damp then the old builders knew more then we do .Plus one other thing I've had to take down 2 chimneys in high wind areas due to the weak spot at doc level as chimney not stable. If chimney constructed right then you don't need a doc tray thats why millions of house don't have them and millions don't have damp problems
He’s a good bricklayer, but an architect would make him take it down. No lead~tray or liners. Many good builders don’t know what a lead~tray looks like ?
@@michaelj.k.9408 A lead-tray is a sheet of lead at the very base of the chimney that in effect splits the chimney in two. Bricks above the lead-tray can be permanently wet, bricks / wall below the tray remain dry. Technically it should be code 5 lead, but I only use code 4. Three sides of the tray are turned UP, not down . Only one side has the lead facing down. This side has plastic weep vents at the perps (vertical joints). The sheet of lead when installed covers all the flues, only flues that are to be used have a hole cut the diameter of the clay liner . The liner can not be smaller than 185mm internally. Turn the lead UP around the liner and seal with a good mastic (CT1). As the stack goes up fill the void between brick and liner with mica/cement weak mix. Stack as many liners as needed until you reach the top and then stick a pot on, not a bit of drainpipe. Fit a cowl. Hope this helps and good luck
@@Known-unknowns am I right in thinking that the underside of lead tray has to be painted in bitumen paint, sure I seen it on a spec somewhere, it’s a while since I’ve done one to be honest but the amount of chimleys I’ve seen that don’t get a lead tray put in and then when it pisses down and the damp goes down the stack and it goes yellow round the breast at the ceiling and the poor roofers get called out and bollocked , then the chimney gets treated with the special waterproof sealer which does f all 😂😂
Smart. I personally would have tied the internal courses in to the exterior, but every bricky has their own ways. Glad to see you enjoy what you do. I wouldn’t change my job for anything 👍🏽 keep it up.
Very cool. Makes my 1860 project seam mild by comparison.
Meticulous work Thanks for sharing
I like your style. I might adapt some of some of your techniques! I'm a brick mason at a technical school and I would love to do masonry for the rest of my life!
Good work ...brilliantly put videos
Great Video and Great Skill.
No lead tray through stack☹️
im an ex brikkie and lovewatching your vids. your a good trowl and its great to see quality trade work by someone who knows his stuff..
Thank you_-)
I really want to build my on one and I am so scared of asking to someone who doesn't know for safety reasons hope your video helps me, greetings from Mexico.
Nice job Chris very neat👌
I like the music.
Good looking clean job!
very good!!!!!!!!!!congratulations!!!!
Might have been nice to see a lead DPC going in at the correct level . Thus stopping wet penetration being dragged down below the roof line by gravity and also some expanded metal or SS ties to bond the inner flues to the outer skins .
These are optional- very expensive... and can also have problems!
Chris Longhurst
Lead tray expensive?!
Not as expensive as water penetrating the stack into roof space and down onto ceiling?
They are optional, every chimney that hasn't got a lead dpc tray in doesn't have that problem (water penetrating the stack into roof space and down onto ceiling)! most chimneys haven't got them.. lead trays also have their faults! Usually water penetration is poor capping, no corbeling and damaged lead flashing...
Granted. Why not build tray in as a fail safe though? Piece of four pound through that stack at the right height could save a lot of future heart ache. I only guarantee to stop a stack leaking by putting one in combined with correct flashings etc.
This Guy is a Cowboy. No city & Guilds in Bricklaying
Shout out to the carrier that had to hod all the gear up 😂👍
quick question
why are there no flue liners going in? or are you relining it? tnx
otherwise looks great.
Hi, is it necessary to tie in the bricks with steel rods?
I’ve had some builders say yes and some no. Wasn’t sure if just personal preference or guidelines.
The chimney may only be for decoration, but i am sure its not going to fall down , the centre divider is locked in ,i always render as i lay and i use a waterproofer in the mortar and they stay dry ,unless you use stainless ties you can get more problems from rusting ties
What is a "water proofer"? Is this an additive to mortar mix or a sealant applied after bricks are laid? Is there a brand name?
I didn't watch the whole thing yet..are you saying this is not a functioning chimney?! Why waste money on it?
Where is the lead flashing?
Fair play mate I know I commented on your last video saying rough as fuck but it's nice to see to enjoy your job
stack opposite corners when doing your corbels at the top then you end up with 2 maybe 3 3 quarters instead of a Lil 2 inch peice you know. good videos I live it the USA so we do stuff different but good job interesting. such as we lay the frogs down. lol the indent in the brick we call frogs. what do u mates call em
Lay out is key, then you get 6" or so brick as opposed to slivers.
No lead tray
No Soakers or Cover Flashing?
Good work Christ
Shawn Lion Good work Chris, Christ built the universe the earth and snd sll that is there in- a bit different😂
Those new bricks look nice. Where did get them from?
Thank you.
Hi, is it necessary to tie in the bricks with steel rods?
I’ve had some builders say yes and some no. Wasn’t sure if just personal preference or guidelines. This is re a chimney stack with total of 13 rows
@@penny8838 most of the chimneys I’ve worked on don’t have ties in the brick flue walls
Nice Job Chris, you choose a solid brick which looks very nice. For chimney rebuilds can you also use 3 hole brick or should chimneys always have solid brick? I have seen both which is why I'm asking.
These suited the house
why did you not tie/bond in the internal brickwork in to the outer brickwork?
I did tie bond but Not necessary on every course, also the original had done the same!
Cowboy..
Patrick Hennessy u
Change the bond on the sailor course get rid closure put in 3quarter
It didn't look the same afterwards, what happened to the fancy corbel finish?
If I leveled one brick at a time including the level of its tip I’d get fired on the spot
Oh dear no tray and why don't you put your flashing in st the same time like your supposed to
If you have a chimney, get yourself a CHIMELLA you will save Hundreds on your energy bills
Chimney Christmas
nice anchovies pieces boot.
evnmny evnmny Tried putting your comment into Google translate pal, even that couldn't make head or tail of it lol
evnmny evnmny Answered this kind of question previously...All chimney's have queen closures, go out and look on any chimney stack.... Could you put a demo vid on and show me how it's done, look forward to seeing your effort🤔
Chris Longhurst c'mon boot. A couple of 3/4 bricks solve that. I bet if you go look, the chimney is failing.
evnmny evnmny Cobblers, standard practice as 3/4 bricks through the bond out....This is how the glorious Victorians did it and their chimneys are still working today lol... Again, boot put me a vid of you showing us how you'd do it
Chris Longhurst boot with empty cross joints. click on me. I have one up of how to lay brick the right way. you just learned the wrong way boot.
Attempting to build a large vicky stack 10 ft tall how do I keep it square ? Any tips thanks
once you’ve squared it at the first course it will keep square as you plumb all sides and as you build use a large square the ones roofers use and keep putting it on your corners as you progress. Also you could set up profiles which you usually see on building sites and they will help! Hope that helps- Good luck in your chimney build
@@foundationgood123 Thank you
D.I.Y don't forget your leadcore
I got so good at doing chimneys I could go 5 to 6 courses without putting a stick on it.after 5 or 6 might need a ill tap that's all
Josh Hernandez
Oh yeah, rendering it after were you??
Why are you laying frog down?
They’re solid bricks 🧱
No tray
Any honest roofer near slough.
Need repointing chimney etc.
Look for a mason not a roofer..
Anybody know what happens if you drop a brick down the chimney how do you get it out ? Mine just has a stovepipe hooked to it
There should be a small door somewhere at the bottom of the chimney. Look for it and if you can't find it call a professional chimney sweep because it must be cleaned and that's where you take the soot out. Have him inspect it while he's there.
If your labourer is small enough then tie a length of rope around his ankles and slowly lower him in to the flue.
hi Chris.
could you tell me please, did you put the lead in as you were building it or after the job was done?
thank you
Hi, no the lead goes in after the chimney is built up. The joints are raked out as the chimney is built. The lead soakers are added along with the tiles and then the stringers and apron is added and the final touch is the fitting of the ridges.
No ties. But then again,
I couldn't build a chimney in 7 minutes.
What would u tie it to
No tray that’s going to leak
Jut what I thought. It's amazing how many chimneys have no tray ....
Sorry there not flettons , to many beers!
All this crap about no lead doc trays .I've just been working on a new estate and theses are no Mickey mouse houses and not a single dpc tray in chimney stacks anywhere. If old chimney stacks I've worked on and are over 200 years old and no damp then the old builders knew more then we do .Plus one other thing I've had to take down 2 chimneys in high wind areas due to the weak spot at doc level as chimney not stable. If chimney constructed right then you don't need a doc tray thats why millions of house don't have them and millions don't have damp problems
Hi John, the houses built 200 years ago was built in lime mortar not cement, hope this helps.
Yo with the Fuckn music!!
He’s a good bricklayer, but an architect would make him take it down. No lead~tray or liners. Many good builders don’t know what a lead~tray looks like ?
Aspiring chimney-builder. Could you explain a lead tray or give a good article?
@@michaelj.k.9408 A lead-tray is a sheet of lead at the very base of the chimney that in effect splits the chimney in two. Bricks above the lead-tray can be permanently wet, bricks / wall below the tray remain dry. Technically it should be code 5 lead, but I only use code 4. Three sides of the tray are turned UP, not down . Only one side has the lead facing down. This side has plastic weep vents at the perps (vertical joints). The sheet of lead when installed covers all the flues, only flues that are to be used have a hole cut the diameter of the clay liner . The liner can not be smaller than 185mm internally. Turn the lead UP around the liner and seal with a good mastic (CT1). As the stack goes up fill the void between brick and liner with mica/cement weak mix. Stack as many liners as needed until you reach the top and then stick a pot on, not a bit of drainpipe. Fit a cowl.
Hope this helps and good luck
@@Known-unknowns am I right in thinking that the underside of lead tray has to be painted in bitumen paint, sure I seen it on a spec somewhere, it’s a while since I’ve done one to be honest but the amount of chimleys I’ve seen that don’t get a lead tray put in and then when it pisses down and the damp goes down the stack and it goes yellow round the breast at the ceiling and the poor roofers get called out and bollocked , then the chimney gets treated with the special waterproof sealer which does f all 😂😂
@@Known-unknowns Is there a code book or some sort of literature that would give more information? I would like to try this on my next new build.
looks like your laying like your in the Union
Where's the Stetson boy?
Rubbish NO lead
This doesn't explain anything, it's nothing more than a brick layers music video. 😠
this wasnt a how to....
Even when the video is sped up, your still slow as hell.