That is exactly how you keep a customer and grow a business. Finding that burner issue and fixing it at no cost will become word of mouth about the honest and thorough work that you do.
Great job! Right when I said wait! that's when you cut in and said what you saw on the video. The videos come in handy sometimes. Happy Thanksgiving to you and family.
If it were my unit, I would want that heat exchanger checked with as much rust as there was in that unit. Probably got holes in it galore. wouldn't want any weird accidents or anything becauseLike you said it could have been just the blower motor that was changed out. Like you changed out that bottom tray. It may look new but probably not.
Not an HVAC Tech, but I've always wondered why you didn't just install new burner tubes. How expensive could a couple of stamped pieces of metal put together in the factory be? Well, curiosity was killing the cat, so I looked up the price online for this unit. $48.52 each - talk about highway robbery...... Lesson learned, now I know why you clean them.
Westinghouse made a gas/pack unit, and evaporator was down stream from the heat exchanger; the unit would never rust out, but you can’t sell equipment when it’s made that well.
I don't disagree with you, but the years and heat does a number on them. Seems like they could come up with a better metal or alloy. They have stainless exchanger welded to sheet metal that rusts to pieces. Brilliant
Fire carries current and rectifies an AC signal. Thanks for the physics lesson! I knew this was a great channel. The positive ions in the flame only allow current in one direction.
2 วันที่ผ่านมา +9
All i want for Christmas is a Milwaukee leaf blower.
I had the same issue with plugged flame runners on a trane furnace a couple of days ago Rep suggested I put in S/S burners as it was LP gas. Good to see an honest service tech. Keep up the great videos and service for the community.
Nice catch on the flame propagation from first to all other burners. Looks like those Mfg's. of those package units should put those boards in a module (would stop shooting by insects & frogs)lizards) with a simple plug in to make install easier.
You are stellar. In my city, labor rates are so high, big fixes usually are not done if a system is 10 yrs plus. I’m a homeowner, engineer, try to learn. Got interested in learning HVAC after last 16k changeout. Keep up the good work! I do basic maintenance, but having variable speed units, pros are needed. Thx for content.
What causes that heat shield to rust through? I have a hunch, but I don't know for sure that it is correct. If said hunch is correct, it explains the rust on the wall that the inducer bolts to as well as explaining why you had to clean the burners. Also, if it is correct, won't this customer have the same problem again in a season or three since the root cause still exists?
I had a no heat call on a Rheem gas pkg unit on Wednesday the 27th. I was there on Monday to perform a maintenance, and it was working fine when I left. Got there and it was the one flash on the board. Fired the unit up after resetting it, and each time I reset it, it would fire normally. Ended up being the board- two solder joints on the back were no good. Furnace fired right up, no fault codes this time. I don't see many single burner Rheem pkg units anymore-that are all the stamped one piece in whatever size the furnace is. That burner floor is trashed too.
If those units are not setting level water will build up in the heat exchanger all thru the summer rusting everything out, and if there's no trap on the drain it won't drain properly it will come out the secondary drain behind the blower cover and build up under the heat exchanger , it's not rain water causing all that rust
I had a new rheem furnace installed last winter and as I was inspecting it this year I noticed the inside of the heat exchanger where the flames enter thru seems to be alittle brown (rust color) for the first 3 inches. Do you think it's something I should worry about?
Call backs, no fun at all. I 100% understand your missing the burner carry over problem. These ground mounted units are terrible to work on, just look at all that rust. The circuit board was probably at it's life's and when you got there to work on it. I do believe you missed something though. The reddish silicone spark cable gets dry with age and you will leak spark to ground. I actually think I saw evidence of spark arcing to ground through the horizontal sheet metal where the insulating bushing for the high voltage spark cable was missing. Additionally after you cleaned the sensor then you didn't get any spark anymore, and you replaced it with a new board. A few things that could have caused that board to go bad after you worked on it. Just plain old bad luck when you show up something else goes wrong or the following. I am not sure if the installation instructions tell you or not but it is critical that the high voltage cable be thoroughly connected and did not have a loose connection back to the high voltage igniter on the board if the board tries to fire I need is going directly to ground or there is no way for the spark to get to the ground get can blow the high voltage ignition out. The other thing that you did catch is that lower left-hand screw that must be grounded through the sheet metal through to the cabinet. I highly believe that you'll be back there with more problems in the future. I believe that you were getting the fault code that you had when you first arrived. Was accurate and you made a proper diagnosis to clean the sensor as you did. You missed an important clue however, the terrible rust in the cabinet. You referred to rectified D C current. It is usally only about 3 micro volts sensing at the computer board. There must not be any resistance in that sensing circuit. With a rusted out cabinet like that you should run a seperate gound wire, green 16 gauge or equivalent back to that point on the board that said this point must be grounded with the appropriate grounding screw. This makes a much better senseing point of return to the board. This also applies to hot surface igniters as well. I hope you don't receive this as a criticism just a time saver.
We have a lot of ornament holly bushes where i live. The ones with the leaves, that look like their making the peace sign are one of the common species around here. They are pretty looking. But boy do they hurt if you brush up against them
That is exactly how you keep a customer and grow a business. Finding that burner issue and fixing it at no cost will become word of mouth about the honest and thorough work that you do.
You got that right. There are many that will charge again.
from roaches to a holly bush . your having a hell of a week curtis
Don't forget the wire brush attack too.
Great job! Right when I said wait! that's when you cut in and said what you saw on the video. The videos come in handy sometimes. Happy Thanksgiving to you and family.
Happy Thanksgiving to you too.
If it were my unit, I would want that heat exchanger checked with as much rust as there was in that unit. Probably got holes in it galore. wouldn't want any weird accidents or anything becauseLike you said it could have been just the blower motor that was changed out. Like you changed out that bottom tray. It may look new but probably not.
Not an HVAC Tech, but I've always wondered why you didn't just install new burner tubes. How expensive could a couple of stamped pieces of metal put together in the factory be? Well, curiosity was killing the cat, so I looked up the price online for this unit. $48.52 each - talk about highway robbery...... Lesson learned, now I know why you clean them.
They got ya by the balls.
Westinghouse made a gas/pack unit, and evaporator was down stream from the heat exchanger; the unit would never rust out, but you can’t sell equipment when it’s made that well.
I don't disagree with you, but the years and heat does a number on them. Seems like they could come up with a better metal or alloy. They have stainless exchanger welded to sheet metal that rusts to pieces. Brilliant
Fire carries current and rectifies an AC signal. Thanks for the physics lesson! I knew this was a great channel. The positive ions in the flame only allow current in one direction.
All i want for Christmas is a Milwaukee leaf blower.
Two batteries or one?
@@HVACGUYTwo batteries please😂. I’m sure that would be his/her answer.
Happy Thanksgiving Curtis!
Happy Thanksgiving to you too
I love the little wire brush attachment on my drill for those burners.
Complain, you! You have to be one of the coolest service techs out there. You are as cool as the center seed of a cucumber! Nice content!
IKR, I cuss for him a lot.
Thanks 👍
Have a great Thanksgiving.
You too
I had the same issue with plugged flame runners on a trane furnace a couple of days ago Rep suggested I put in S/S burners as it was LP gas. Good to see an honest service tech. Keep up the great videos and service for the community.
When a very nice man says, I've got some clippers, and asks, do you want me to trim these Holly bushes? You say YES! 😅
LOL, me too. I bet he was going to cut it off even with the ground, the way he said it would be easy.
Yup need a 90 degree impact tool
Two kinds of plants you will never find in my yard, Holly bushes, and Yucca. No sap dripping pine trees either.
Carrying an old blanket to cover those holly bushes might come in handy next visit... Enjoy Thanksgiving...!
It fought you hard but you won!👍💪
Great job Curtis thanks for the video have a blessed thanksgiving thanks for the video
Nice catch on the flame propagation from first to all other burners. Looks like those Mfg's. of those package units should put those boards in a module (would stop shooting by insects & frogs)lizards) with a simple plug in to make install easier.
Happy Thanksgiving Curtis! My boys and I watch your videos and learn together!
Happy Thanksgiving 🦃🍽
Well done Curtis due to the Prickly conditions around ☹ Au
You are stellar. In my city, labor rates are so high, big fixes usually are not done if a system is 10 yrs plus. I’m a homeowner, engineer, try to learn. Got interested in learning HVAC after last 16k changeout. Keep up the good work! I do basic maintenance, but having variable speed units, pros are needed. Thx for content.
you can take the bit out of the milwaukee for a tight fit 1/4" screw.
Hi Curtis
Subscriber from North Carolina
What’s up?
If you truly want to know if 24v is working just sweat and touch the wires 😂!
It will let you know. 110v ac is worse, I know. I never want to find out about 220.
What causes that heat shield to rust through? I have a hunch, but I don't know for sure that it is correct. If said hunch is correct, it explains the rust on the wall that the inducer bolts to as well as explaining why you had to clean the burners. Also, if it is correct, won't this customer have the same problem again in a season or three since the root cause still exists?
I had a no heat call on a Rheem gas pkg unit on Wednesday the 27th. I was there on Monday to perform a maintenance, and it was working fine when I left. Got there and it was the one flash on the board. Fired the unit up after resetting it, and each time I reset it, it would fire normally. Ended up being the board- two solder joints on the back were no good. Furnace fired right up, no fault codes this time. I don't see many single burner Rheem pkg units anymore-that are all the stamped one piece in whatever size the furnace is. That burner floor is trashed too.
Take a chisel and smack the screw sideways a little to loosen it.
If those units are not setting level water will build up in the heat exchanger all thru the summer rusting everything out, and if there's no trap on the drain it won't drain properly it will come out the secondary drain behind the blower cover and build up under the heat exchanger , it's not rain water causing all that rust
YUPP , BEEN THERE .....😎🤟
Nice work Curtis. Happy Thanksgiving.
Thanks, you too!
LOL a sawzaw will take care of the brush LOLOLOL
Perhaps you need to carry a cordless hedge trimmer in your truck. This situation is ridiculous.
What is your favorite unit to work on?
@HVAC GUY get one of these. DEWALT Right Angle Attachment, Flex Shaft, Drill Attachment, 12-Inch (DWARAFS)
Wouldn't you want to check the orfices on the gas manifold or do some units not have removable orfices?
00:09:18 love rust😂
I had a new rheem furnace installed last winter and as I was inspecting it this year I noticed the inside of the heat exchanger where the flames enter thru seems to be alittle brown (rust color) for the first 3 inches. Do you think it's something I should worry about?
nah, you are ok, they do that. It is good to keep an eye on them, once a year or so.
Happy Thanksgiving
Happy Thanksgiving 🦃
Hooray for video. It saved from an upset customer.
Was that a pop-up water sprinkler to the left of where he is working?
A cheap tarp from Harbor Freight would take up no room in your truck and just the trick for those bushes
Call backs, no fun at all. I 100% understand your missing the burner carry over problem. These ground mounted units are terrible to work on, just look at all that rust. The circuit board was probably at it's life's and when you got there to work on it. I do believe you missed something though. The reddish silicone spark cable gets dry with age and you will leak spark to ground. I actually think I saw evidence of spark arcing to ground through the horizontal sheet metal where the insulating bushing for the high voltage spark cable was missing. Additionally after you cleaned the sensor then you didn't get any spark anymore, and you replaced it with a new board. A few things that could have caused that board to go bad after you worked on it. Just plain old bad luck when you show up something else goes wrong or the following. I am not sure if the installation instructions tell you or not but it is critical that the high voltage cable be thoroughly connected and did not have a loose connection back to the high voltage igniter on the board if the board tries to fire I need is going directly to ground or there is no way for the spark to get to the ground get can blow the high voltage ignition out. The other thing that you did catch is that lower left-hand screw that must be grounded through the sheet metal through to the cabinet. I highly believe that you'll be back there with more problems in the future. I believe that you were getting the fault code that you had when you first arrived. Was accurate and you made a proper diagnosis to clean the sensor as you did. You missed an important clue however, the terrible rust in the cabinet. You referred to rectified D C current. It is usally only about 3 micro volts sensing at the computer board. There must not be any resistance in that sensing circuit. With a rusted out cabinet like that you should run a seperate gound wire, green 16 gauge or equivalent back to that point on the board that said this point must be grounded with the appropriate grounding screw. This makes a much better senseing point of return to the board. This also applies to hot surface igniters as well. I hope you don't receive this as a criticism just a time saver.
Holly is the worst. Cut down 2 holly bushes from previous owners. Just a big F NO.
We have a lot of ornament holly bushes where i live. The ones with the leaves, that look like their making the peace sign are one of the common species around here. They are pretty looking. But boy do they hurt if you brush up against them