Off all the videos I’ve watched of yours. I cannot recall ever seeing you discuss the Mitsubishi or Fujitsu systems. It would be nice if you could have a video on either of those systems.
We talk about the intelliheat but that’s all I’ve covered so far, will start doing some ductless head to head matchups eventually… lots of videos to make!!
I live in a 1600ish sq ft modular home built in 1975, in the middle of Michigan. My furnace took a dump and I need to replace it, but I am looking into a heat pump system. Normal Winter temps hover in the 20s normally, but can get below zero for a week or two some winters. Current furnace is an 80$ Miller. I am building a mechanical room behind my house that will be 14x10x7ft ceiling and that is where I want to relocate my heating system to. Approx 18 ft from my current lp furnace location in the house. Look into a combo fuel system as being we can get pretty cold in the winter, I don't think a heat pump system alone would work. LP is around 2.40 a gallon and I go through about 1000 gallons a year most of which is between Late November and early March for a normal winter period. I have been seeing the new Daiken system and this Amana, and the BOSCH unit, And Train units. Not sure of the biggest differences between them. If I were to just go to a new LP furnace, I would be looking at a 96% over the current 80% unit installed. It was having problems keeping up in the really cold periods. Granted I need to reinsulate my walls, but that is a different animal for a different video. So out of the Bosch, Daiken, Train, Carrier, and Amana systems, which would be the most suited for me? Or should I bypass this option and go directly to ta ground source system via a Pond, or a few Geo Wells? or even a Ground loop system (depending on how much loop I would need to bury at what depth). Im in an area where the water table is a bit high so get water flowing not too far under the surface. 5-7 ft will fill with standing water. Plan is to install return ducts from the house and each bedroom back to the mechanical room, which will be somewhat in ground 3ft- 4ft deep,, while 3 to 4ft is above ground level, ofcourse using an upflow design to blow into the 2 straight link ducts under the house. Will a full geo system work in my scenario, or should I look at a Dual Fuel for the really cold times, or a ground source system foregoing the system shown in your video here. Sorry for the long inquiry, but figured most of it was info you would need to calculate the potentials. Thank.
Short answer is Geothermal can be expensive but if you have the money for it then it will work year round and less of a need for backup heat with good insulation, though they’ll still have a buffer for -20F and colder temps. My recommendation would be a Daikin fit or Amana Enhanced, with a dual fuel LP (80 or 96) because they’re cold climate rated and quieter than the Bosch in defrost mode and your system will be used for heating a lot. We install Bosch in co without issues related to noise but it’s still a consideration, and your climate has more frost buildup because of moisture in the winter so the Amana or Fit will be better IMO. I would get the 96VC on the furnace (not the modulating) only because it’s backup but will also allow for you to run it more regularly if electric prices spike or vice versa since you can change your switchover temperature if the price of one fuel (electric vs. LP) has a big spike for whatever reason. My only note is I would pass on relocating the mechanical room because oftentimes this throws off the entire duct design for the house and nothing will work right and certain parts of your home will get no airflow.
@@TheHVACDopeShow Excellent information. Kind of what I was considering. The one caveat is my crawl space is barely over 24 inches of height available and the entry to it is only 23x25 opening. So real estate under the house is tight.
Daikin fit enhanced is heat pump version only and only available in 2, 3, 3.5 and 4 ton versions. It has an “E” in the nomenclature, and the differences are higher EER ratings, improved high ambient performance, and improved low ambient performance. It’s only relevant in heating climates or high ambient cooling climates like Phoenix or Las Vegas for example (110F+ temps)
It appears that only Mr. Cool has developed a means for a true DIY installation. Are there any other companies that have managed to find the means to complete the installation of the lines without a vacuum/pressure test? I would rather go with another brand on a 22 year old Lennox 4 Ton, 100K LP updraft furnace replacement, but so far everything else requires a contractor for the warranty to be valid. PS "...The truth is you’ll find some systems haVe more in common than you might have previously realized."
If you’re wanting DIY the Mr Cool stuff is it. Goodman and a few others can be purchased online. Honestly Goodman is a good brand it’s the poor installs that have gotten them a patchy reputation, but they’re some of the better products you can buy online IMO since it’s essentially like a private label version or Amana or Daikin.
But Goodman and all other brands require the lineset to have a vacuum etc… the pre charged lines on Mr Cool are kind of annoying IMO because you cannot shorten them because the lineset has refrigerant in it so you’re stuck with a sloppy looking lineset often times because it’s too long and never the exact right length
landscape view can be rotated using Windows snipping tool; clip, edit in Paint icon, select rotate.
Was in pdf / acrobat, I’ll try downloading and rotating next time, will definitely make it easier to read lol!
Off all the videos I’ve watched of yours. I cannot recall ever seeing you discuss the Mitsubishi or Fujitsu systems.
It would be nice if you could have a video on either of those systems.
We talk about the intelliheat but that’s all I’ve covered so far, will start doing some ductless head to head matchups eventually… lots of videos to make!!
It seems the 5 ton unit is not eligible for the $2000 tax credit, is it less efficient than the 4 ton system?
It doesn’t hit the EER threshold, it’s not an “enhanced” version it’s just the standard version of the heat pump.
I live in a 1600ish sq ft modular home built in 1975, in the middle of Michigan.
My furnace took a dump and I need to replace it, but I am looking into a heat pump system. Normal Winter temps hover in the 20s normally, but can get below zero for a week or two some winters. Current furnace is an 80$ Miller. I am building a mechanical room behind my house that will be 14x10x7ft ceiling and that is where I want to relocate my heating system to. Approx 18 ft from my current lp furnace location in the house.
Look into a combo fuel system as being we can get pretty cold in the winter, I don't think a heat pump system alone would work. LP is around 2.40 a gallon and I go through about 1000 gallons a year most of which is between Late November and early March for a normal winter period.
I have been seeing the new Daiken system and this Amana, and the BOSCH unit, And Train units. Not sure of the biggest differences between them.
If I were to just go to a new LP furnace, I would be looking at a 96% over the current 80% unit installed. It was having problems keeping up in the really cold periods. Granted I need to reinsulate my walls, but that is a different animal for a different video.
So out of the Bosch, Daiken, Train, Carrier, and Amana systems, which would be the most suited for me?
Or should I bypass this option and go directly to ta ground source system via a Pond, or a few Geo Wells? or even a Ground loop system (depending on how much loop I would need to bury at what depth). Im in an area where the water table is a bit high so get water flowing not too far under the surface. 5-7 ft will fill with standing water.
Plan is to install return ducts from the house and each bedroom back to the mechanical room, which will be somewhat in ground 3ft- 4ft deep,, while 3 to 4ft is above ground level, ofcourse using an upflow design to blow into the 2 straight link ducts under the house.
Will a full geo system work in my scenario, or should I look at a Dual Fuel for the really cold times, or a ground source system foregoing the system shown in your video here.
Sorry for the long inquiry, but figured most of it was info you would need to calculate the potentials.
Thank.
Short answer is Geothermal can be expensive but if you have the money for it then it will work year round and less of a need for backup heat with good insulation, though they’ll still have a buffer for -20F and colder temps. My recommendation would be a Daikin fit or Amana Enhanced, with a dual fuel LP (80 or 96) because they’re cold climate rated and quieter than the Bosch in defrost mode and your system will be used for heating a lot. We install Bosch in co without issues related to noise but it’s still a consideration, and your climate has more frost buildup because of moisture in the winter so the Amana or Fit will be better IMO. I would get the 96VC on the furnace (not the modulating) only because it’s backup but will also allow for you to run it more regularly if electric prices spike or vice versa since you can change your switchover temperature if the price of one fuel (electric vs. LP) has a big spike for whatever reason. My only note is I would pass on relocating the mechanical room because oftentimes this throws off the entire duct design for the house and nothing will work right and certain parts of your home will get no airflow.
@@TheHVACDopeShow Excellent information. Kind of what I was considering. The one caveat is my crawl space is barely over 24 inches of height available and the entry to it is only 23x25 opening. So real estate under the house is tight.
Why do you keep referring to the Daikin as the "enhanced"? I've never seen that word on a single listing for this unit.
bim.daikincity.com/item/heat-pumps-1/dz6vs/dz6vsa241e
Daikin fit enhanced is heat pump version only and only available in 2, 3, 3.5 and 4 ton versions. It has an “E” in the nomenclature, and the differences are higher EER ratings, improved high ambient performance, and improved low ambient performance. It’s only relevant in heating climates or high ambient cooling climates like Phoenix or Las Vegas for example (110F+ temps)
Can any licensed dealer buy and install daikin or only daikin certified dealer can buy and do?
Daikin and Amana have to be installed by dealers
It appears that only Mr. Cool has developed a means for a true DIY installation. Are there any other companies that have managed to find the means to complete the installation of the lines without a vacuum/pressure test? I would rather go with another brand on a 22 year old Lennox 4 Ton, 100K LP updraft furnace replacement, but so far everything else requires a contractor for the warranty to be valid.
PS "...The truth is you’ll find some systems haVe more in common than you might have previously realized."
If you’re wanting DIY the Mr Cool stuff is it. Goodman and a few others can be purchased online. Honestly Goodman is a good brand it’s the poor installs that have gotten them a patchy reputation, but they’re some of the better products you can buy online IMO since it’s essentially like a private label version or Amana or Daikin.
But Goodman and all other brands require the lineset to have a vacuum etc… the pre charged lines on Mr Cool are kind of annoying IMO because you cannot shorten them because the lineset has refrigerant in it so you’re stuck with a sloppy looking lineset often times because it’s too long and never the exact right length
If you want to DIY it wouldn’t hurt to just buy a vacuum pump and micron gauge and get a proper system
You still have to pull a vacuum on the line set and the indoor coil for the Mr. cool or you’re gonna have moisture mix with the refrigerant
Hello Sir, Are you interested to do SEO in your videos for more views and SUBS or boosting by google ads ?
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