Thanks for the help with the chlorine salt generator, your advice and knowledge help me get my system back up online quickly thanks a bunch, purchased a new one after verifying the transformer was working properly. Thanks again!
My ET4 UOC motherboard looks identical to yours... all of the buttons and all of the relay ports. Some have a missing resister that can easily be added. Oncr R42 and R41 are in place the ET4 becomes ET8. Cool cheap way to add some extra relay support!
Thank you so much for this video! I'm researching how to add a salt chlorinator and couldn't figure out how the data would be sent to the easy touch and screen logic. I guess it is through a common com port.
Glad it was helpful! If you are not getting one specifically for your system, you'll want to be sure to get one compatible with your system to make sure you can power and control it centrally.. I have looked and see some say they are compatible with Pentair Easytouch. You can just get a separate one that has it's own controls and power but that makes things a little less orderly. Please subscribe if you have not, thx!
Great video, thanks for taking the time to explain all of this. My Pentair Easy Touch system stopped functioning although there is power to the transformer, the screen only shows the tiny boxes images and there is no response from the control board at all. I noticed that the Blue wire from the transformer is not connected to anything and from what I can figure out by the diagrams is that is should be connected into the 12v breaker switch above it. You ended the video right before explaining the transformer wiring. None of the breakers in the main panel are tripped and both shut off switches, to this box and one to pump, have power. This happened all of a sudden and I’m trying to figure out if the board needs to be replaced or the blue unconnected wire is the issue. The Easy Switch is dated 2014. I be appreciative of your thoughts because my pool company wants to sell me $10,000 worth of new equipment as the remedy and I’m not convinced I need to do that. Thanks so much in advance for your reply. Best regards, Lizk
Thanks for the comment! Here's another video I made of the surge protector. Skip to about halfway through for my pool surge protector. th-cam.com/video/xv7PT0Lwe-k/w-d-xo.html
Are you available to answer questions?? You obviously got this thing mastered! I'm a contractor who but a concrete inground pool myself. We are in the home stretch getting close to adding water but my electrician and myself are struggling a little with this control box
Thanks for watching my channel. Please consider subscribing if you have not. I attached my anode to the bonding system and buried it next to my equipment. TH-cam critics have said that won't work but I don't see any of my equipment rusting and have had my pool for 8 years now. They do make anodes for pools so maybe check that out but here is the one I used. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QUXB2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you for taking the time to make this. I noticed that the white neutral wires are coiled going into the breakers. The guy that installed my Easytouch did the same thing. I figured there is a reason for doing that but I have not found it. Can you explain why that is done?
The surge protection and GFCI breakers come that way. I think it is done to keep your wires neat. A coiled wire can easily be pulled to a longer distance. I used to help wire security systems when my buddy would get busy and even we would coil the low voltage wires to keep enough wire there for any future changes.
@@SwimmingintheDeep Thanks for the reply. I came across a thread that suggested the wire that comes with a GFCI breaker is of a certain length, and while it COULD be cut shorter if desired but should not be made longer.
I like perma cast becase the plubiing component allows the anode to be replaced ever few years as it erodes. Also, they did me a solid once fixing an order. CMP makes one as well I believe. in line is key
Thanks for posting the video on Pentair setup, you mentioned that sometimes the mother shorted out due to electrical surges. How did you repair the board, as I have a similar situation my motherboard has stopped working due to a brown out in my area. Thanks in advance.
What seems to be not working on it? Everything or just a couple of things like the screen logic interface? There are a couple of repair services on eBay that will repair your board and send it back to you.
@@SwimmingintheDeep - thanks for getting back with me, after the surges, the screen went dark and there was no functionality from all the buttons. I have tried to press the 3 breakers on the right side of the panel, and they were not tripped. I have not checked the voltage output from the transformer yet to ensure there's power to the board, I will do that today.
I think you are on the right track. The only thing that I really know how to repair on this board is the LCD and the comm chip that is used for Screenlogic. Neither is an easy repair either. I can try to give dig up the email for the guy that helped me, he may be able to diagnose the board.
@@SwimmingintheDeep I did some troubleshooting and started measuring the voltages from the transformer and found all outputs were 0v. I found a replacement Pentair transformer from Walmart, installed it yesterday and now everything is back to working for ~$178. Great to avoid the major cost of a controller board replacement. Thanks, again for the help.
@@darrenterrell8411 That's awesome you figured it out and not too bad for the repair. Any pool company would have charged twice as much or more. Thanks for letting the comments section know too! I hope it helps others.
Super appreciate the time you have taken to outline the wiring of the Pentair units! My Easytouch 4 with screen logic and actuators just arrived and I feel a lot better about tackling the job myself, although the board does not have enough room for all of the breakers in my current box. I think I'll wire it up like a subpanel and just bring the hots over to the relays for the items I want to control with the 3 relays in the smaller unit. You mentioned the problem with the direct wire for the screen logic and the chip that needed to be replaced on your main board. I'd like to try to avoid this at all costs. I know I can add that suppressor (which might help) and you can go wireless as opposed to the wired option. What would you rec now that you have your unit dialed in? Thanks
Thanks for taking the time to comment. I'd recommend that you use the wireless connection or use a wifi extender that has a port to plug in the Ethernet connection. I have another video on my channel that details how to do that. th-cam.com/video/8o74R0HZ3nw/w-d-xo.html
@@SwimmingintheDeep Thanks for the recommendation. One last question. If I have an intelliflo pump that will be controlled through the com port can I use the pump relay for another device and designate it as such?
My pool builder (fiberglass) has a special sales program where you can basically pay them to make your pool and they come and they put it in a hole in the ground that you have a contractor do, or maybe you know how to do it yourself. They get the pool up and running on temporary electric. And then you act as a contractor or subcontractor to do everything else yourself. This is a company in the South Atlanta area.
Hi, Really enjoyed your video. I have watched a BUNCH on the Pentair controller and yours are DEFINITELY the best and most clear. I have the Easy Touch 8 and am new to pool ownership. We recently had to replace our pump and went with a Variable speed Hayward Tristar VS900. Now the Pentair system no longer controls the pump (at all). I guess that is due to the built in controls on the pump itself. I am wondering if you have any advice/guideance on wiring the pump to the Pentair so that we can at least turn it off/on so that we can remotely control again since we could at least turn off/on with the old pump and control our heater since it will only run when the pump is on. Your help is appreciated. Thanks! George
Thanks for the encouraging words about my video and channel. I finally got it monetized this past month, it's been a long journey. I did a quick look into your dilemma and I think there is a "relay mode" for your pump that may work. I have a two speed Pentair pump that uses a special two speed relay that is mentioned on your door diagram for your easytouch. I don't know you'd need a special relay but just to do on and off you may just use the standard pump relay in the EasyTouch box I'd guess. Here is a link to the thread I found that is similar to your dilemma and they offer a possible solution. www.troublefreepool.com/threads/hayward-vs-controlled-by-jandy-panel-and-other-third-party-controllers.138249/
QUESTION, Is the surge protector CB the following: Siemens QSA2020 Circuit Breaker and Secondary Surge Arrester 20 AMP (2) 1 Pole? Just want to get the right breaker since I was told that only Pentair and Siemens breakers should be used.
Thanks for the question. I used a Murray brand which is owned by Siemans. Siemans or Murray, etc. It basically replaces two single pole 20 amp breakers. This is so it catches both phase one and phase two of your two hot legs in the box. You can also use both as 20 amp breakers for lights, etc. There are actually Six brands of breakers that Pentair lists in my box (on the door) that are compatible. GE, Murray, Pentair, Siemans, Square D, and Eaton. I used Murray because I got it crazy cheap on ebay, new in the box. I'd use whatever brand is least expensive, they are all name brands.
How do you set up master user? I couldn’t figure it out from the menu. I have the app on my iPhone but it says I have to set it up on the unit itself. We bought our home with it already installed
I don't recall that being a thing but I could be wrong. I think there is just a single login and that's all. If you are looking how to configure Screenlogic, that is a separate app you can download in the Android or Apple store. For all options, I find it easiest with the PC version, even then there are two executables, one for the main controls and the other for setup. Comment back if I can help.
My 12v lights are powered by a 110v supply from this main box. The 12v transformer is outside this box in an adjacent box. One of the relays in this main Pentair box is powering the 12v adjacent box with the 110v. A Pentair circuit is assigned to it to turn on and off. Make sense?
Yes that make sense so when you hit that relay it sends 120v to the transformer that send 12v to the lights in the pool. But if you want pool lights and a spa light on separate switches how would you do that without another transformer and a extra relay.
They are different meaning they should be viewed independently of each other. The two can be connected at the panel. My pentair panel has two lugs for this reason. Chat GPT is an excellent resource.... No, bonding and grounding are not the same, especially in the context of pools. Both are crucial for electrical safety, but they serve different purposes: Bonding Purpose: To create a low-resistance path between all metal components and conductive surfaces of the pool system. How it Works: Bonding connects all metallic parts, such as the pool structure, ladder, pump, heater, and even the water, to a single bonding grid or wire. Goal: Ensures all metal components are at the same electrical potential to eliminate the risk of voltage differences that could cause shocks. Where Applied: Includes pool frames, rebar, ladders, diving boards, and other metallic parts. Grounding Purpose: To provide a safe path for electrical current to return to the ground in case of a fault (like a short circuit). How it Works: Grounding connects the electrical system or equipment (e.g., the pump motor) to the earth using a ground wire. Goal: Prevents electrical shock by safely dispersing excess electricity, such as from a lightning strike or equipment malfunction. Where Applied: Involves electrical components like the pool's pump, lights, and other wired equipment. Key Differences Why Both Are Needed in Pools Bonding prevents voltage differences that could result in shock when touching two metal parts. Grounding ensures any electrical fault (e.g., a short in a pool pump) doesn't energize the water or pool frame and provides a path for the current to safely dissipate into the earth.
Thank you for the video. Very informative. I believe my circuit breaker for the pool pump needs to be replaced. When I press the test button, the switch does not do anything. Is this an indicator that it needs to be replaced?
So your circuit breaker is a GFCI? I think that is code in most parts of the country as of the last few years. you may know this but try forcing the black switch part of the breaker all the way off, then all the way on. When you push it all the way off you'll feel some spring resistance... press into that spring resistance you feel and then flip it back on. My breaker like that on the pool pump did not last very long at all. So I switched it out with a regular breaker, which it's not within code of the last few years.
Need some troubling shooting help. I have the same easy touch. Is am not getting any lights on my salt chlorinator. I checked the con not or 4 wire leading to the salt generator and I have appox 13.7 volts on each wire. When pump starts I don’t have any lights at all on m6 salt chlorinator. Need some help. After we get this repaired I want to add the wireless network screen logic . Thanks great videos.
Check for power at the chlorinator itself if you can. Check all plugs and connections. How old is the chlorinator? What part of the country are you in?
@@SwimmingintheDeep checked each leg at the power cord connection, got 13.7 volts. It’s about 5 yrs old and platers are cleaned regularly and clean. South Louisiana
@@itsrem check the voltage at the other end...at the chlorinator if you can. I seem to remember there is a plug or two in between so it still could be a connection issue. I asked about the part of the country you are in because if you run your pump a lot of hours, say 8+ a day all year, you may be near the end of your SWG life expectancy anyway.
@@itsrem I've only read about the life expectancy and not experienced it myself yet. Mine is 6 years old and runs about 6 hours a day in North Georgia.
You show how to control heater on the mother board but where do you connect to power up for the heater which breaker??? Where the pump is connected or in a different breaker?? Thanks
I have my heater power connected to my relay for my pump. The logic is that the heater cannot come on unless your pump is running. Please subscribe if you have not already. Thanks
Great video and Thanks!! two questions. First, what is the Internet access point that you used to get the ethernet port outside? Second, do you have your 12V transformer for your pool lights inside your automation panel or is it outside the panel? GREAT CONTENT!
Thanks so much for watching and commenting! For the Internet/connectivity, I now use an Asus RT-AC86U as my main router in the house and an Asus RT-AC68U out at the panel. That is an update/different from what is seen in the video. They are in what Asus calls AImesh. Any mesh setup could work from any router brand if the one at the pool has a ethernet plug in, rather than just wireless. My brand of lights has the 12v outside the panel as a separate box. One of the relays in the box is assigned to turn them on/off. My brand of lights is called SR Smith Fiberstars. I have another video here on the lights and landscape lights. th-cam.com/video/uDaTy7nnQhw/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for the awesome content. Subscribed for sure. Will be trying your Alexa hack this weekend. I have the easy touch model before this one (gold with transformer on the side). I just bought an AquaCal heat pump, but I can't tell where to put the communication wires. Do you happen to know? This model easy touch does not the "electric heater" spot.
If I’m understanding correctly the gas heater has the red and black wires that run directly to the motherboard (at the bottom right in your video). Does the power line run directly to the high voltage side breaker? And is there any connection between the gas heater and the aux 1-7 relays?
The gas heater power line gets tapped from the relay for your pump in the easytouch box. Pause it at 4:24 and you'll see the top left pump relay in my box has two black wires on the far right. One is for the heater and the other is for the chlorinator. The reasoning is that the heater or saltwater chlorinator cannot come on unless the pump is on. The red and black low voltage wires that you indicate on the motherboard are what signals the gas heater to actually turn on or off. Using the MasterTemp's "Fireman's Switch" (see manual) you will set the heater itself to bypass it's own control board and rely on the easytouch system. No other aux switches or relays are used for the heater. Good question, please subscribe to my channel if you have not already.
My pool builder recommended FiberStars. In the first three years a few of them fell out of sync but the warranty service was amazing. They all still work based on the replacements and it's 6 years later. So I'm not sure that I would recommend them but I would give them consideration.
Crazy Question, but do you think I could install a circuit on the load center for charging an electric vehicle? I could add a Square D 30 amp breaker for 24Amps 240V charging. What do you think?
I am not an expert on that but I think the panel is rated for 125 amps total. So, add up the total breaker amps your have and see if you are under. You also need to have enough power supply feeding the panel though so I don't know what that is for you. For me that is a 60 amp breaker coming off my main panel.
@@SwimmingintheDeepI have 100amp service to the pentair. I have measured maximum draw is 30amps with pool pump starting from dead stop, so I am pretty sure I can install this, but I don't know if the busbar is rated for continuous amp draw
@@johnlee7691 disclaimer is that you would be safest to ask an electrician. But Chat GPT seems to think you're going to be fine. I'll paste what it says from my paid version of Chat GPT... Yes, you can likely add a 30-amp, 240V double-pole breaker for an electric car charger to your Pentair EasyTouch system box, but there are several considerations to confirm safety and compliance with electrical codes: 1. Main Panel Capacity and Upstream Supply Your Pentair EasyTouch box is rated for 125 amps, but it is currently supplied by a 100-amp breaker upstream. This upstream limit is what dictates the maximum allowable draw for the box, not the rating itself. Adding a 30-amp car charger would bring your total potential load to: 30 amps (pool pump) + 30 amps (car charger) = 60 amps. This is well below the 100-amp upstream supply, so you have room for this load under normal operation. 2. Continuous Load Considerations NEC (National Electrical Code) states that continuous loads (defined as loads running for 3+ hours) should be calculated at 125% of the load for circuit sizing. For your 30-amp car charger: . This continuous load applies at the breaker level, not necessarily at the box level, unless the upstream 100-amp supply also has other high-demand loads. 3. Bus Bar Load Your bus bar must handle the cumulative loads of all breakers. A 30-amp pool pump and 37.5-amp continuous draw for the EV charger would still add up to about 67.5 amps. Since your bus bar is rated for 125 amps, you are well within its capacity. 4. Upstream Panel Load Confirm that the 100-amp supply panel feeding your EasyTouch does not already have excessive load on it from other breakers or sub-panels. The key is to ensure that total concurrent demand doesn’t overload the 100-amp breaker. 5. Breaker Compatibility and Wiring Verify that your EasyTouch box has available slots for a compatible 30-amp double-pole breaker. Ensure that the wiring you use is appropriately sized for the 30-amp load: Use 10 AWG copper wire for a 30-amp circuit. --- Summary Based on the information: You currently draw 30 amps for your pool pump. Adding a 30-amp 240V EV charger is acceptable since the total load will be well within the 100-amp upstream supply. Continuous load at 37.5 amps for the charger and the pool pump’s draw is manageable. Final Note Double-check: 1. Your 100-amp panel's total load to confirm spare capacity. 2. Local electrical codes and permitting requirements. 3. Proper breaker sizing, wire size (10 AWG), and grounding for the car charger. If everything aligns, you should be fine adding the EV charger.
@@SwimmingintheDeep I called pentair and they can't comment on my application, but they confirmed the busbar is rated for 125 amps, and my application should work
You mentioned landscape lighting wired into your 6th relay. Is that your transformer mounted on the lower right side of the high voltage portion of your panel? And if so what brand/model of transformer did you use?
You have given me an idea to do a video on my lighting alone. But my landscape lighting is high voltage with direct bury wire, so it's 110 voltage. My pool lighting is 12v LED though and it is on a relay. The two transformers in my box are for the box itself and my saltwater chlorinator. I'll try to post a video on it soon, like today if that's useful.
Sounds like a good idea for a video as I wasn’t able to find anything about the subject of pool panels and landscape lighting when I searched. Your video came up due to having pool panel in my search criteria. Great video by the way. It really helped me connect some dots on using aux relays in the panel.
@@SwimmingintheDeep I could use this video too! Working on lighting now and thats how I found this video. Good stuff but I need a deep dive (pun intended!) into wiring some lights into the Pentair panel!
That's only needed if you have a two speed pump. one of the reasons I went with a two speed pump is that during freeze protection mode it only runs on very low speed saving a lot of power over time.
My Intellichlore 40 continues to flash green for the cell which indicates it needs to be acid washed. I clean it and this error does not clear. The cell is 4+ years old and my pool store is telling me it is bad and needs replaced. Question, can it be rebuilt or must it be replaced and second question do you have an opinion on the "Splash" replacement sold on WalMart web site for a few hundred $s less?
I have only limited experience with the chlorinator itself. I still have my original (installed December 2014) but only run my pump about 8 hours a day during the season. I've thought about getting a "compatible" generic one when it needs replacing. They won't work during Coldwater season here...under 55 degrees or so.... But the cold water warning should be showing if that's your issue.
I don't understand your question but if you want to know how my system is wired for the heater... The gas heater power line gets tapped from the relay for your pump in the easytouch box. Pause it at 4:24 and you'll see the top left pump relay in my box has two black wires on the far right. One is for the heater and the other is for the chlorinator. The reasoning is that the heater or saltwater chlorinator cannot come on unless the pump is on. The red and black low voltage wires that you indicate on the motherboard are what signals the gas heater to actually turn on or off. Using the MasterTemp's "Fireman's Switch" (see manual) you will set the heater itself to bypass it's own control board and rely on the easytouch system. No other aux switches or relays are used for the heater.
My pentair multi color lights come on for 3 secs then goes out, turn off lights wait about 2-3 mins turn lights back on , and it repeats, cones on and goes off, the light are controlled by the light button on the touchpad panel. What’s going on with these lights? Or Panel, need advice
Did they used to work? If so, I'd suspect a relay issue.....either with the easytouch circuit they are on our with the light system. Sorry, I don't have those type/brand lights so I may not be much help on this issue.
@@SwimmingintheDeep yes it’s the standard set up from the high voltage relay to the voltage relay. That’s what I’m thinking it’s the transformer. I’ll connect the wires to a 12volt battery to test light. As it appears something is thrilling out on both lights
Angelo, good question. I have never had a need to do this so I have never updated mine. I found a thread in a forum that may help you. I am curious, Why do you need to update yours? www.troublefreepool.com/threads/how-to-perform-firmware-upgrade-on-pentair-controllers.69589/
@@SwimmingintheDeep because my firmware is not the latest, looks like they released a new one last year so I wanted to update it. Do you serve Orange County California by any chance?
@@Ghilteras nah, I am a homeowner. I just installed my own pool systems, etc. Not an expert but play one on TH-cam 🙂 If you are not having any issues or compatibility I'd not update it. You can call Pentair and they will help advise you for free and let you know if there is any reason to update it.
Sure, do you mean make a video on this subject? if you're just looking for guidance on the surge breaker what you need to do is just make sure that it's the same type that goes into the easytouch. Brands of breakers that are supported or listed on the door. you want to make sure that you are surgebreaker is in the first and second position of the box for maximum protection.
Just looking for some guidance on what to purchase. I figure a link to the one you purchased would give me a good start to review specifications. Thanks
@@andrej1868 It is a Murray Whole House Surge Protection MSA2020 also known as MSA2020SPD . They are around $120 but shop around, I think I got it on ebay under $60. Other brands will fit too. Siemans makes Murray breakers. There is one right now on amazon warehouse for $56.35...that's a good deal.
Hello, Can someone please help me with my pool lite( inrellibrite 5g) I'm trying configure this into my easy touch 8 and use the feature mode instead of turning it of and on manual? Do I need a separate unit or box to allow me to do this? Thank you Rodney
I don't have intellibrite lights but see my other video on lights th-cam.com/video/uDaTy7nnQhw/w-d-xo.html. I looked up your lights . pdf manual. You can wire them like mine to simply turn them on and off. It looks like you can also get a separate part called an intellibrite controller.
Here's what I think you're saying... The button on your spa side remote is no longer turning on your lights. If that's the case, go to your panel board with a spare piece of small wire, look for the plug for the spa Remote, unplug it and jump the contacts on those for contacts on the board (black common to the one that is the lights) and test. It should make it work. If it makes it work then your switch is probably bad
I have the same exact system and my schedule Timer is not working, no matter what schedule I set the damn thing never stops just runs unless I shut the whole system down
Maybe try to reset the easytouch using the digital screen. You'll have to reprogram things so be prepared for that. But first, check your motor relay to see if it is stuck/worn out. The contact points inside it may be stuck. If so, you'll need to replace your motor relay. It may be the first relay in your box but could be any of them, trace the wires and see. Turn off all power and tap on each one with the butt end of a screwdriver, that may get it unstuck temporarily. Turn off the main power supply to the entire box before doing this. I think you live in my area, I wonder how close. I am in Cumming.
Thanks. The black and red contacts on the com port on the main board will give you 17 volts. Many electronics are pretty forgiving if it's just a few volts difference. But try it at your own risk.. at the 23-minute Mark in my video you can see a black wire where I tapped it myself to power my Alexa hack for when my main board was not working, I have since repaired my main board.
@@SwimmingintheDeep it appears that the transformer provides 12V, 18V and 24V. I think a simple 12V to 5v converter for a car could be take into the 12V output to power my USB mini access point.
@@shahphone You're correct. I measured the 12v wire coming out of the transformer, it plugs into the board on a 6 wire plug. The two blue wires are supposed to be 12v. Funny, the board says 10v on the board. My blue wire measures 8.5v. That should be close enough to your 5.5v IMO. But try at your own risk. I am going to use it for my wifi access that calls for 5.5v.
@@SwimmingintheDeep i don't know that I trust the built-in regulator to drop the voltage 3V. While it probably would be fine, summers where I love get in the 110s, might be a problem with the extra heat. A dollar tree DC-DC converter hard wired in will give me exactly 5V. Odd that the voltages are different than what it states on the transformer?
@@SwimmingintheDeep So now that I got a closer look at my board, the blue wires coming in for the transformer are AC. Thats why it's giving you less voltage. Flip your multimeter to AC and you will get closer to the stated values between the two blues. One blue goes to the board directly and the other goes through a low voltage breaker to the board. They then go into an SMT rectifier that converts to DC. So you have been running your alexa mod off of the COM port? How many amps do you think it pulls?
What is the brand of the surge protector that you have for the high voltage side ? What is the surge protector brand name for the low voltage side ? I have the same Pentair system you have
It's a Murray Breaker, owned by Siemans. MURRAY 20 AMP Circuit BREAKER Surge Arrester MSA2020 120/240. I used a camera surge device for the low voltage side. I think it was overkill. Regarding Screenlogic....If you are aware of the issue with the communications chip blowing on the system motherboard is a bad spec chip IMO. The slightest surge will kill it. If you have a wired link to your motherboard from your brick in your house I suggest you change that to a WiFi link ASAP. That seems to be the common denominator in the chip blowing. Ever since I changed my to wireless it has not blown again. I have a video on the wifi link if you look at my other vids.
@@SwimmingintheDeep I have a brand new system . If you could please give me the brand and model number of the camera surge device for the low voltage side -thank you
@@charlesloguidice2829 I removed the low voltage protection last year. I had it in line for the 4 wire screenlogic on the panel and in the house near the brick for screenlogic. In the end it did not protect my system. That's why I went with a WiFi setup for the link. I believe it was a ditek brand though for 12--24v. I think I still have it in a box it you want to pay shipping, LoL.
I just plugged it in to an outlet.... But you could look on your AC to DC adapter and then use a multi meter to find a similar voltage source in the easytouch system.
@@SwimmingintheDeep Thanks! My only outlet is annoyingly taken up by a giant power supply for an irrigation controller that covers both outlets. I guess I will look for an internal power source.
I am not sure, that's a question for Pentair themselves. The way the USA works is that you feed this panel with 220V with two legs...110v+110v. 110v breakers only pick up one leg of the box while 220v pick up two legs. Some things in this box, need only the 110v breaker. So where you see my thin breakers compared to the big thick double pole breaker (220v for the pump), that's the difference.
Since it's a sub panel, "Can't you just skip installing a whole house surge protection breaken inside of the pool panel by installing one inside of the main breaker panel?" Also, by installing a whole house circuit breaker inside of the main breaker you can also utilize it in place of the cut off switch so that one whole house circuit breaker (220 V) that feeds the pool (sub) panel can do both as to cut down costs because it'll be all electrically connected. Seems redundant.
When you add an anode, and you should, the anode should be added in line. Look at a Perma-Cast inline Anode. TN-IL 20 or similar. You will see where the anode needs to be to protect the internal pool components. burying behind shed doesnt protect any pool equipment. guaranteed
@@SwimmingintheDeep its a new pentair panel easy touch with a aqua cal electric heater attached to it, i hooked up the filter pump on the relay (single speed pump). Do i hook up the heater the same way, it is a 230 volt heater.
@@johnfernandez718 Hi John, I am not sure. I know with my MasterTemp gas heater there is a "fireman's" switch in the heater that disables the heater controls and allows the easytouch to control it. Once that is done it should be just two wires that get wired onto the corner of the Easytouch primary control board. Hopefully that gives you a clue to figure it out. The water temp for shutoff, etc comes off of a temp sensor on your plumbing as you see in one part of this video.
@@SwimmingintheDeep I guarantee you arent protecting any internal components because you have a bonding wire attached to an anode. The wire is to bond the anode but the anode has to be in contact with what you are trying to protect, ie tge pool water that cycles through all the components. your buried anode protects some of the minerals in your soil but thats about it
@@kmonty6188 but the water is also bonded when properly done, usually via a lug on the ladder in a fiberglass pool like mine. In addition, mine is bonded to the heater core of my pool heater. Together those two are always in contact with the water.
Bonding is separate function. The anode itself has to make contact not the wire. Bonding is done to keep everything the same potential so you dont get shocked. the anode itself has to be in the water, in line in the plumbing before or after filter. if your anode is buried in the ground it is bonded but not helping your pool or equipnent whatsoever.
This helped me out so much. The pentair wireless bridge was failling. Super easy to bypass as put on my wireless mesh system. Thankyou!
Awesome Matt! It is soooo good to get feedback on my videos. I am glad it helped. Please like and subscribe if you have not already. Thanks!
Have any details on that install? did you add a plug to the box for the wifi/rj45 wireless? I'm about to do the same. Any advice/details?
Thanks for the help with the chlorine salt generator, your advice and knowledge help me get my system back up online quickly thanks a bunch, purchased a new one after verifying the transformer was working properly. Thanks again!
You're welcome!
Really appreciate the pentair video was looking for little more info on troubleshooting the transceiver checking for correct voltage. Thanks
I'd be glad to check voltage so you can compare yours. Let me know what terminals you are testing.
My ET4 UOC motherboard looks identical to yours... all of the buttons and all of the relay ports. Some have a missing resister that can easily be added. Oncr R42 and R41 are in place the ET4 becomes ET8. Cool cheap way to add some extra relay support!
Thank you so much for this video! I'm researching how to add a salt chlorinator and couldn't figure out how the data would be sent to the easy touch and screen logic. I guess it is through a common com port.
Glad it was helpful! If you are not getting one specifically for your system, you'll want to be sure to get one compatible with your system to make sure you can power and control it centrally.. I have looked and see some say they are compatible with Pentair Easytouch. You can just get a separate one that has it's own controls and power but that makes things a little less orderly. Please subscribe if you have not, thx!
Great video, thanks for taking the time to explain all of this. My Pentair Easy Touch system stopped functioning although there is power to the transformer, the screen only shows the tiny boxes images and there is no response from the control board at all. I noticed that the Blue wire from the transformer is not connected to anything and from what I can figure out by the diagrams is that is should be connected into the 12v breaker switch above it. You ended the video right before explaining the transformer wiring. None of the breakers in the main panel are tripped and both shut off switches, to this box and one to pump, have power. This happened all of a sudden and I’m trying to figure out if the board needs to be replaced or the blue unconnected wire is the issue. The Easy Switch is dated 2014. I be appreciative of your thoughts because my pool company wants to sell me $10,000 worth of new equipment as the remedy and I’m not convinced I need to do that. Thanks so much in advance for your reply. Best regards, Lizk
I am made a quick unlisted vid to try to assist. Here is the link th-cam.com/video/JXcuS6RPs0g/w-d-xo.html
Thank you very much for the detailed explanation. Can you reply with the surge protector breaker brand and rating. Thanks
Thanks for the comment! Here's another video I made of the surge protector. Skip to about halfway through for my pool surge protector. th-cam.com/video/xv7PT0Lwe-k/w-d-xo.html
Are you available to answer questions??
You obviously got this thing mastered! I'm a contractor who but a concrete inground pool myself. We are in the home stretch getting close to adding water but my electrician and myself are struggling a little with this control box
Sure, what you got? I'd be glad to help.
thank you for sharing, would be great if you show where and how the anode was installed
Thanks for watching my channel. Please consider subscribing if you have not. I attached my anode to the bonding system and buried it next to my equipment. TH-cam critics have said that won't work but I don't see any of my equipment rusting and have had my pool for 8 years now. They do make anodes for pools so maybe check that out but here is the one I used. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QUXB2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you for taking the time to make this. I noticed that the white neutral wires are coiled going into the breakers. The guy that installed my Easytouch did the same thing. I figured there is a reason for doing that but I have not found it. Can you explain why that is done?
The surge protection and GFCI breakers come that way. I think it is done to keep your wires neat. A coiled wire can easily be pulled to a longer distance. I used to help wire security systems when my buddy would get busy and even we would coil the low voltage wires to keep enough wire there for any future changes.
@@SwimmingintheDeep Thanks for the reply. I came across a thread that suggested the wire that comes with a GFCI breaker is of a certain length, and while it COULD be cut shorter if desired but should not be made longer.
I like perma cast becase the plubiing component allows the anode to be replaced ever few years as it erodes. Also, they did me a solid once fixing an order. CMP makes one as well I believe. in line is key
Thanks for posting the video on Pentair setup, you mentioned that sometimes the mother shorted out due to electrical surges. How did you repair the board, as I have a similar situation my motherboard has stopped working due to a brown out in my area.
Thanks in advance.
What seems to be not working on it? Everything or just a couple of things like the screen logic interface? There are a couple of repair services on eBay that will repair your board and send it back to you.
@@SwimmingintheDeep - thanks for getting back with me, after the surges, the screen went dark and there was no functionality from all the buttons. I have tried to press the 3 breakers on the right side of the panel, and they were not tripped. I have not checked the voltage output from the transformer yet to ensure there's power to the board, I will do that today.
I think you are on the right track. The only thing that I really know how to repair on this board is the LCD and the comm chip that is used for Screenlogic. Neither is an easy repair either. I can try to give dig up the email for the guy that helped me, he may be able to diagnose the board.
@@SwimmingintheDeep I did some troubleshooting and started measuring the voltages from the transformer and found all outputs were 0v. I found a replacement Pentair transformer from Walmart, installed it yesterday and now everything is back to working for ~$178. Great to avoid the major cost of a controller board replacement. Thanks, again for the help.
@@darrenterrell8411 That's awesome you figured it out and not too bad for the repair. Any pool company would have charged twice as much or more. Thanks for letting the comments section know too! I hope it helps others.
Super appreciate the time you have taken to outline the wiring of the Pentair units! My Easytouch 4 with screen logic and actuators just arrived and I feel a lot better about tackling the job myself, although the board does not have enough room for all of the breakers in my current box. I think I'll wire it up like a subpanel and just bring the hots over to the relays for the items I want to control with the 3 relays in the smaller unit.
You mentioned the problem with the direct wire for the screen logic and the chip that needed to be replaced on your main board. I'd like to try to avoid this at all costs. I know I can add that suppressor (which might help) and you can go wireless as opposed to the wired option. What would you rec now that you have your unit dialed in?
Thanks
Thanks for taking the time to comment. I'd recommend that you use the wireless connection or use a wifi extender that has a port to plug in the Ethernet connection. I have another video on my channel that details how to do that. th-cam.com/video/8o74R0HZ3nw/w-d-xo.html
@@SwimmingintheDeep Thanks for the recommendation.
One last question. If I have an intelliflo pump that will be controlled through the com port can I use the pump relay for another device and designate it as such?
@@portlandhomeworx4871 I think you have it right and that is how those work but since I only have a two speed pump I am not sure.
Awesome video, thanks for sharing all this great info. At 0:20 you mention an 'assisted pools install program'. Can you explain what this is?
My pool builder (fiberglass) has a special sales program where you can basically pay them to make your pool and they come and they put it in a hole in the ground that you have a contractor do, or maybe you know how to do it yourself. They get the pool up and running on temporary electric. And then you act as a contractor or subcontractor to do everything else yourself. This is a company in the South Atlanta area.
@@SwimmingintheDeep Interesting to know, thanks.
Aside from a few NEC code violations well done.
Thanks. I think. 🙂
Feel free to reply with anything I can easily fix and ignore anything you think is not easily fixed :-)
great video. i might have missed it but what guage wire do you use? i am using the panel for garden light, sprinkler valve and some patio lighting
If you're running LED lighting, and valves, you can easily get by with 14 gauge wire.
Hi, Really enjoyed your video. I have watched a BUNCH on the Pentair controller and yours are DEFINITELY the best and most clear. I have the Easy Touch 8 and am new to pool ownership. We recently had to replace our pump and went with a Variable speed Hayward Tristar VS900. Now the Pentair system no longer controls the pump (at all). I guess that is due to the built in controls on the pump itself. I am wondering if you have any advice/guideance on wiring the pump to the Pentair so that we can at least turn it off/on so that we can remotely control again since we could at least turn off/on with the old pump and control our heater since it will only run when the pump is on. Your help is appreciated. Thanks! George
Thanks for the encouraging words about my video and channel. I finally got it monetized this past month, it's been a long journey. I did a quick look into your dilemma and I think there is a "relay mode" for your pump that may work. I have a two speed Pentair pump that uses a special two speed relay that is mentioned on your door diagram for your easytouch. I don't know you'd need a special relay but just to do on and off you may just use the standard pump relay in the EasyTouch box I'd guess. Here is a link to the thread I found that is similar to your dilemma and they offer a possible solution. www.troublefreepool.com/threads/hayward-vs-controlled-by-jandy-panel-and-other-third-party-controllers.138249/
I believe you can only run pentair vs pump on the pentair controller
QUESTION, Is the surge protector CB the following: Siemens QSA2020 Circuit Breaker and Secondary Surge Arrester 20 AMP (2) 1 Pole?
Just want to get the right breaker since I was told that only Pentair and Siemens breakers should be used.
Thanks for the question. I used a Murray brand which is owned by Siemans. Siemans or Murray, etc. It basically replaces two single pole 20 amp breakers. This is so it catches both phase one and phase two of your two hot legs in the box. You can also use both as 20 amp breakers for lights, etc. There are actually Six brands of breakers that Pentair lists in my box (on the door) that are compatible. GE, Murray, Pentair, Siemans, Square D, and Eaton. I used Murray because I got it crazy cheap on ebay, new in the box. I'd use whatever brand is least expensive, they are all name brands.
Gracias Amigo
De nada!
How do you set up master user? I couldn’t figure it out from the menu. I have the app on my iPhone but it says I have to set it up on the unit itself. We bought our home with it already installed
I don't recall that being a thing but I could be wrong. I think there is just a single login and that's all. If you are looking how to configure Screenlogic, that is a separate app you can download in the Android or Apple store. For all options, I find it easiest with the PC version, even then there are two executables, one for the main controls and the other for setup. Comment back if I can help.
12v lights so many questions. Did you wire it to have a light transformer on a relay. What controls the light
My 12v lights are powered by a 110v supply from this main box. The 12v transformer is outside this box in an adjacent box. One of the relays in this main Pentair box is powering the 12v adjacent box with the 110v. A Pentair circuit is assigned to it to turn on and off. Make sense?
Yes that make sense so when you hit that relay it sends 120v to the transformer that send 12v to the lights in the pool. But if you want pool lights and a spa light on separate switches how would you do that without another transformer and a extra relay.
@@unmeelectric6063 yes, I believe that would be the most straightforward way to do that.
Is bonding and grounding the same? Should the bonding wire be connected to the ground bar? Some guys say is not necessary to bond the control box.
They are different meaning they should be viewed independently of each other. The two can be connected at the panel. My pentair panel has two lugs for this reason. Chat GPT is an excellent resource....
No, bonding and grounding are not the same, especially in the context of pools. Both are crucial for electrical safety, but they serve different purposes:
Bonding
Purpose: To create a low-resistance path between all metal components and conductive surfaces of the pool system.
How it Works: Bonding connects all metallic parts, such as the pool structure, ladder, pump, heater, and even the water, to a single bonding grid or wire.
Goal: Ensures all metal components are at the same electrical potential to eliminate the risk of voltage differences that could cause shocks.
Where Applied: Includes pool frames, rebar, ladders, diving boards, and other metallic parts.
Grounding
Purpose: To provide a safe path for electrical current to return to the ground in case of a fault (like a short circuit).
How it Works: Grounding connects the electrical system or equipment (e.g., the pump motor) to the earth using a ground wire.
Goal: Prevents electrical shock by safely dispersing excess electricity, such as from a lightning strike or equipment malfunction.
Where Applied: Involves electrical components like the pool's pump, lights, and other wired equipment.
Key Differences
Why Both Are Needed in Pools
Bonding prevents voltage differences that could result in shock when touching two metal parts.
Grounding ensures any electrical fault (e.g., a short in a pool pump) doesn't energize the water or pool frame and provides a path for the current to safely dissipate into the earth.
@@SwimmingintheDeep Thank you!
Thank you for the video. Very informative. I believe my circuit breaker for the pool pump needs to be replaced. When I press the test button, the switch does not do anything. Is this an indicator that it needs to be replaced?
So your circuit breaker is a GFCI? I think that is code in most parts of the country as of the last few years. you may know this but try forcing the black switch part of the breaker all the way off, then all the way on. When you push it all the way off you'll feel some spring resistance... press into that spring resistance you feel and then flip it back on. My breaker like that on the pool pump did not last very long at all. So I switched it out with a regular breaker, which it's not within code of the last few years.
Need some troubling shooting help. I have the same easy touch. Is am not getting any lights on my salt chlorinator. I checked the con not or 4 wire leading to the salt generator and I have appox 13.7 volts on each wire. When pump starts I don’t have any lights at all on m6 salt chlorinator. Need some help. After we get this repaired I want to add the wireless network screen logic . Thanks great videos.
Check for power at the chlorinator itself if you can. Check all plugs and connections. How old is the chlorinator? What part of the country are you in?
@@SwimmingintheDeep checked each leg at the power cord connection, got 13.7 volts. It’s about 5 yrs old and platers are cleaned regularly and clean. South Louisiana
@@itsrem check the voltage at the other end...at the chlorinator if you can. I seem to remember there is a plug or two in between so it still could be a connection issue. I asked about the part of the country you are in because if you run your pump a lot of hours, say 8+ a day all year, you may be near the end of your SWG life expectancy anyway.
@@SwimmingintheDeep I do run it 8 hrs a day
@@itsrem I've only read about the life expectancy and not experienced it myself yet. Mine is 6 years old and runs about 6 hours a day in North Georgia.
You show how to control heater on the mother board but where do you connect to power up for the heater which breaker??? Where the pump is connected or in a different breaker?? Thanks
I have my heater power connected to my relay for my pump. The logic is that the heater cannot come on unless your pump is running. Please subscribe if you have not already. Thanks
Great video and Thanks!! two questions. First, what is the Internet access point that you used to get the ethernet port outside? Second, do you have your 12V transformer for your pool lights inside your automation panel or is it outside the panel? GREAT CONTENT!
Thanks so much for watching and commenting! For the Internet/connectivity, I now use an Asus RT-AC86U as my main router in the house and an Asus RT-AC68U out at the panel. That is an update/different from what is seen in the video. They are in what Asus calls AImesh. Any mesh setup could work from any router brand if the one at the pool has a ethernet plug in, rather than just wireless. My brand of lights has the 12v outside the panel as a separate box. One of the relays in the box is assigned to turn them on/off. My brand of lights is called SR Smith Fiberstars. I have another video here on the lights and landscape lights. th-cam.com/video/uDaTy7nnQhw/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for the awesome content. Subscribed for sure. Will be trying your Alexa hack this weekend. I have the easy touch model before this one (gold with transformer on the side). I just bought an AquaCal heat pump, but I can't tell where to put the communication wires. Do you happen to know? This model easy touch does not the "electric heater" spot.
thanks for the comment, I am sorry I don't know. If you let me know your model, I'll look it up and try to figure it out too.
If I’m understanding correctly the gas heater has the red and black wires that run directly to the motherboard (at the bottom right in your video). Does the power line run directly to the high voltage side breaker? And is there any connection between the gas heater and the aux 1-7 relays?
The gas heater power line gets tapped from the relay for your pump in the easytouch box. Pause it at 4:24 and you'll see the top left pump relay in my box has two black wires on the far right. One is for the heater and the other is for the chlorinator. The reasoning is that the heater or saltwater chlorinator cannot come on unless the pump is on. The red and black low voltage wires that you indicate on the motherboard are what signals the gas heater to actually turn on or off. Using the MasterTemp's "Fireman's Switch" (see manual) you will set the heater itself to bypass it's own control board and rely on the easytouch system. No other aux switches or relays are used for the heater. Good question, please subscribe to my channel if you have not already.
That helps a lot, thank you!
GREAT VIDEO.
Thanks for commenting!
Great videos, what led lights would you recommend for a new pool?
My pool builder recommended FiberStars. In the first three years a few of them fell out of sync but the warranty service was amazing. They all still work based on the replacements and it's 6 years later. So I'm not sure that I would recommend them but I would give them consideration.
Great video. Thanks.
Thanks Wesley!
Crazy Question, but do you think I could install a circuit on the load center for charging an electric vehicle? I could add a Square D 30 amp breaker for 24Amps 240V charging. What do you think?
I am not an expert on that but I think the panel is rated for 125 amps total. So, add up the total breaker amps your have and see if you are under. You also need to have enough power supply feeding the panel though so I don't know what that is for you. For me that is a 60 amp breaker coming off my main panel.
@@SwimmingintheDeepI have 100amp service to the pentair. I have measured maximum draw is 30amps with pool pump starting from dead stop, so I am pretty sure I can install this, but I don't know if the busbar is rated for continuous amp draw
@@johnlee7691 disclaimer is that you would be safest to ask an electrician. But Chat GPT seems to think you're going to be fine. I'll paste what it says from my paid version of Chat GPT...
Yes, you can likely add a 30-amp, 240V double-pole breaker for an electric car charger to your Pentair EasyTouch system box, but there are several considerations to confirm safety and compliance with electrical codes:
1. Main Panel Capacity and Upstream Supply
Your Pentair EasyTouch box is rated for 125 amps, but it is currently supplied by a 100-amp breaker upstream. This upstream limit is what dictates the maximum allowable draw for the box, not the rating itself.
Adding a 30-amp car charger would bring your total potential load to:
30 amps (pool pump) + 30 amps (car charger) = 60 amps.
This is well below the 100-amp upstream supply, so you have room for this load under normal operation.
2. Continuous Load Considerations
NEC (National Electrical Code) states that continuous loads (defined as loads running for 3+ hours) should be calculated at 125% of the load for circuit sizing.
For your 30-amp car charger: .
This continuous load applies at the breaker level, not necessarily at the box level, unless the upstream 100-amp supply also has other high-demand loads.
3. Bus Bar Load
Your bus bar must handle the cumulative loads of all breakers. A 30-amp pool pump and 37.5-amp continuous draw for the EV charger would still add up to about 67.5 amps.
Since your bus bar is rated for 125 amps, you are well within its capacity.
4. Upstream Panel Load
Confirm that the 100-amp supply panel feeding your EasyTouch does not already have excessive load on it from other breakers or sub-panels. The key is to ensure that total concurrent demand doesn’t overload the 100-amp breaker.
5. Breaker Compatibility and Wiring
Verify that your EasyTouch box has available slots for a compatible 30-amp double-pole breaker.
Ensure that the wiring you use is appropriately sized for the 30-amp load:
Use 10 AWG copper wire for a 30-amp circuit.
---
Summary
Based on the information:
You currently draw 30 amps for your pool pump.
Adding a 30-amp 240V EV charger is acceptable since the total load will be well within the 100-amp upstream supply.
Continuous load at 37.5 amps for the charger and the pool pump’s draw is manageable.
Final Note
Double-check:
1. Your 100-amp panel's total load to confirm spare capacity.
2. Local electrical codes and permitting requirements.
3. Proper breaker sizing, wire size (10 AWG), and grounding for the car charger.
If everything aligns, you should be fine adding the EV charger.
@@SwimmingintheDeep I called pentair and they can't comment on my application, but they confirmed the busbar is rated for 125 amps, and my application should work
But then, I received a followup email stating they cannot endorse this application. Ugh
You mentioned landscape lighting wired into your 6th relay. Is that your transformer mounted on the lower right side of the high voltage portion of your panel? And if so what brand/model of transformer did you use?
You have given me an idea to do a video on my lighting alone. But my landscape lighting is high voltage with direct bury wire, so it's 110 voltage. My pool lighting is 12v LED though and it is on a relay. The two transformers in my box are for the box itself and my saltwater chlorinator. I'll try to post a video on it soon, like today if that's useful.
Sounds like a good idea for a video as I wasn’t able to find anything about the subject of pool panels and landscape lighting when I searched. Your video came up due to having pool panel in my search criteria. Great video by the way. It really helped me connect some dots on using aux relays in the panel.
@@SwimmingintheDeep I could use this video too! Working on lighting now and thats how I found this video. Good stuff but I need a deep dive (pun intended!) into wiring some lights into the Pentair panel!
@@orlandoreyes9388 let me see what I can do
@@orlandoreyes9388 Here you go, a new vid. Hope it helps. th-cam.com/video/uDaTy7nnQhw/w-d-xo.html
What is the part number for that 2 speed relay switch and please advise why its needed?
That's only needed if you have a two speed pump. one of the reasons I went with a two speed pump is that during freeze protection mode it only runs on very low speed saving a lot of power over time.
Looks like the Pentair part number is 520198 for the relay.
My Intellichlore 40 continues to flash green for the cell which indicates it needs to be acid washed. I clean it and this error does not clear. The cell is 4+ years old and my pool store is telling me it is bad and needs replaced. Question, can it be rebuilt or must it be replaced and second question do you have an opinion on the "Splash" replacement sold on WalMart web site for a few hundred $s less?
I have only limited experience with the chlorinator itself. I still have my original (installed December 2014) but only run my pump about 8 hours a day during the season. I've thought about getting a "compatible" generic one when it needs replacing. They won't work during Coldwater season here...under 55 degrees or so.... But the cold water warning should be showing if that's your issue.
i need help please how can i install bubblers fountain lights to intellicenter
Thanks for coming out. Check out my other video here about landscape lights. th-cam.com/video/uDaTy7nnQhw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=xhK8P1zA4fvOCiKE
Pentair heater there is a three port kill switch and it says see the instructions for 2 wire setup. I did not see anything in the instructions.
I don't understand your question.
I don't understand your question but if you want to know how my system is wired for the heater... The gas heater power line gets tapped from the relay for your pump in the easytouch box. Pause it at 4:24 and you'll see the top left pump relay in my box has two black wires on the far right. One is for the heater and the other is for the chlorinator. The reasoning is that the heater or saltwater chlorinator cannot come on unless the pump is on. The red and black low voltage wires that you indicate on the motherboard are what signals the gas heater to actually turn on or off. Using the MasterTemp's "Fireman's Switch" (see manual) you will set the heater itself to bypass it's own control board and rely on the easytouch system. No other aux switches or relays are used for the heater.
Could use a video on how you hooked up the heather. I have the same one :)
My pool schedule doesn’t turn itself off . Any ideas ? Same pentair .
Have you tried deleting all schedules? And also resetting the entire system in the menu?
Very good, thanks a lot
Thanks Ramon!
Was it Tom Spegail at FlamingoPools you talked to in California?
It was a Tom in California but a different last name...a name that starts with an O.
My pentair multi color lights come on for 3 secs then goes out, turn off lights wait about 2-3 mins turn lights back on , and it repeats, cones on and goes off, the light are controlled by the light button on the touchpad panel. What’s going on with these lights? Or Panel, need advice
Did they used to work? If so, I'd suspect a relay issue.....either with the easytouch circuit they are on our with the light system. Sorry, I don't have those type/brand lights so I may not be much help on this issue.
@@SwimmingintheDeep yes it’s the standard set up from the high voltage relay to the voltage relay. That’s what I’m thinking it’s the transformer. I’ll connect the wires to a 12volt battery to test light. As it appears something is thrilling out on both lights
@@itsrem that sounds like a good idea to me.
How do you update the firmware of the easytouch? I read that you need to connect your pc to the low voltage mainboard, but I don't know how
Angelo, good question. I have never had a need to do this so I have never updated mine. I found a thread in a forum that may help you. I am curious, Why do you need to update yours? www.troublefreepool.com/threads/how-to-perform-firmware-upgrade-on-pentair-controllers.69589/
@@SwimmingintheDeep because my firmware is not the latest, looks like they released a new one last year so I wanted to update it. Do you serve Orange County California by any chance?
@@Ghilteras nah, I am a homeowner. I just installed my own pool systems, etc. Not an expert but play one on TH-cam 🙂 If you are not having any issues or compatibility I'd not update it. You can call Pentair and they will help advise you for free and let you know if there is any reason to update it.
Can you post a link for the surge breaker please
Sure, do you mean make a video on this subject? if you're just looking for guidance on the surge breaker what you need to do is just make sure that it's the same type that goes into the easytouch. Brands of breakers that are supported or listed on the door. you want to make sure that you are surgebreaker is in the first and second position of the box for maximum protection.
Just looking for some guidance on what to purchase. I figure a link to the one you purchased would give me a good start to review specifications. Thanks
@@andrej1868 It is a Murray Whole House Surge Protection MSA2020 also known as MSA2020SPD . They are around $120 but shop around, I think I got it on ebay under $60. Other brands will fit too. Siemans makes Murray breakers. There is one right now on amazon warehouse for $56.35...that's a good deal.
Awesome. Thanks
Andre, thanks for the idea. Here's a new video on surge protection! th-cam.com/video/xv7PT0Lwe-k/w-d-xo.html
Hello,
Can someone please help me with my pool lite( inrellibrite 5g) I'm trying configure this into my easy touch 8 and use the feature mode instead of turning it of and on manual? Do I need a separate unit or box to allow me to do this?
Thank you
Rodney
I don't have intellibrite lights but see my other video on lights th-cam.com/video/uDaTy7nnQhw/w-d-xo.html. I looked up your lights . pdf manual. You can wire them like mine to simply turn them on and off. It looks like you can also get a separate part called an intellibrite controller.
my lights stops working ,the remote 4 spa,how do i test them ?
Here's what I think you're saying... The button on your spa side remote is no longer turning on your lights. If that's the case, go to your panel board with a spare piece of small wire, look for the plug for the spa Remote, unplug it and jump the contacts on those for contacts on the board (black common to the one that is the lights) and test. It should make it work. If it makes it work then your switch is probably bad
Wonder if this works on my i5 intellitouch
I have the same exact system and my schedule Timer is not working, no matter what schedule I set the damn thing never stops just runs unless I shut the whole system down
Maybe try to reset the easytouch using the digital screen. You'll have to reprogram things so be prepared for that. But first, check your motor relay to see if it is stuck/worn out. The contact points inside it may be stuck. If so, you'll need to replace your motor relay. It may be the first relay in your box but could be any of them, trace the wires and see. Turn off all power and tap on each one with the butt end of a screwdriver, that may get it unstuck temporarily. Turn off the main power supply to the entire box before doing this. I think you live in my area, I wonder how close. I am in Cumming.
Dude, your info is truly invaluable! Any good spots to tap into for either 12V or 5V to power my wireless interface access point?
Thanks. The black and red contacts on the com port on the main board will give you 17 volts. Many electronics are pretty forgiving if it's just a few volts difference. But try it at your own risk.. at the 23-minute Mark in my video you can see a black wire where I tapped it myself to power my Alexa hack for when my main board was not working, I have since repaired my main board.
@@SwimmingintheDeep it appears that the transformer provides 12V, 18V and 24V. I think a simple 12V to 5v converter for a car could be take into the 12V output to power my USB mini access point.
@@shahphone You're correct. I measured the 12v wire coming out of the transformer, it plugs into the board on a 6 wire plug. The two blue wires are supposed to be 12v. Funny, the board says 10v on the board. My blue wire measures 8.5v. That should be close enough to your 5.5v IMO. But try at your own risk. I am going to use it for my wifi access that calls for 5.5v.
@@SwimmingintheDeep i don't know that I trust the built-in regulator to drop the voltage 3V. While it probably would be fine, summers where I love get in the 110s, might be a problem with the extra heat. A dollar tree DC-DC converter hard wired in will give me exactly 5V.
Odd that the voltages are different than what it states on the transformer?
@@SwimmingintheDeep So now that I got a closer look at my board, the blue wires coming in for the transformer are AC. Thats why it's giving you less voltage. Flip your multimeter to AC and you will get closer to the stated values between the two blues. One blue goes to the board directly and the other goes through a low voltage breaker to the board. They then go into an SMT rectifier that converts to DC. So you have been running your alexa mod off of the COM port? How many amps do you think it pulls?
What is the brand of the surge protector that you have for the high voltage side ? What is the surge protector brand name for the low voltage side ? I have the same Pentair system you have
It's a Murray Breaker, owned by Siemans. MURRAY 20 AMP Circuit BREAKER Surge Arrester MSA2020 120/240. I used a camera surge device for the low voltage side. I think it was overkill. Regarding Screenlogic....If you are aware of the issue with the communications chip blowing on the system motherboard is a bad spec chip IMO. The slightest surge will kill it. If you have a wired link to your motherboard from your brick in your house I suggest you change that to a WiFi link ASAP. That seems to be the common denominator in the chip blowing. Ever since I changed my to wireless it has not blown again. I have a video on the wifi link if you look at my other vids.
@@SwimmingintheDeep I have a brand new system . If you could please give me the brand and model number of the camera surge device for the low voltage side -thank you
Also if possible can you please show me how you connected the low voltage?
@@charlesloguidice2829 I removed the low voltage protection last year. I had it in line for the 4 wire screenlogic on the panel and in the house near the brick for screenlogic. In the end it did not protect my system. That's why I went with a WiFi setup for the link. I believe it was a ditek brand though for 12--24v. I think I still have it in a box it you want to pay shipping, LoL.
@@SwimmingintheDeep what did you use for a surge protector for the low voltage?
Can you tell us how you ran power to your wireless internet connection?
I just plugged it in to an outlet.... But you could look on your AC to DC adapter and then use a multi meter to find a similar voltage source in the easytouch system.
@@SwimmingintheDeep Thanks! My only outlet is annoyingly taken up by a giant power supply for an irrigation controller that covers both outlets. I guess I will look for an internal power source.
Can I buy this Panel and us it a country with 220V power grid?
I am not sure, that's a question for Pentair themselves. The way the USA works is that you feed this panel with 220V with two legs...110v+110v. 110v breakers only pick up one leg of the box while 220v pick up two legs. Some things in this box, need only the 110v breaker. So where you see my thin breakers compared to the big thick double pole breaker (220v for the pump), that's the difference.
Since it's a sub panel, "Can't you just skip installing a whole house surge protection breaken inside of the pool panel by installing one inside of the main breaker panel?" Also, by installing a whole house circuit breaker inside of the main breaker you can also utilize it in place of the cut off switch so that one whole house circuit breaker (220 V) that feeds the pool (sub) panel can do both as to cut down costs because it'll be all electrically connected. Seems redundant.
Good point. It is redundant. Redundant surge protection is good.
dang, nicely done
Thanks!
im trying to install same panel. i got stuck on the 2 transformers wires . Pentair was no help.
Was my video helpful? Or do you need me to show any other close-ups?
@@SwimmingintheDeep can i send you a private message?
@@SwimmingintheDeep id like info on the chlorinator transformer and the little one on top of it. please. and ty for your time
@@josephp4579 standby, I'll upload a raw vid to dropbox for you
Here is one vid for the main transformer www.dropbox.com/s/s2c3n28ki50d58x/20200920_134512.mp4?dl=0 I'll post the other transformer vid shortly
When you add an anode, and you should, the anode should be added in line. Look at a Perma-Cast inline Anode. TN-IL 20 or similar. You will see where the anode needs to be to protect the internal pool components. burying behind shed doesnt protect any pool equipment. guaranteed
How do i hook up my electric heater?
Is it already wired via a Pentair Easytouch? or jandy, etc? Edited response.
@@SwimmingintheDeep its a new pentair panel easy touch with a aqua cal electric heater attached to it, i hooked up the filter pump on the relay (single speed pump). Do i hook up the heater the same way, it is a 230 volt heater.
@@johnfernandez718 Hi John, I am not sure. I know with my MasterTemp gas heater there is a "fireman's" switch in the heater that disables the heater controls and allows the easytouch to control it. Once that is done it should be just two wires that get wired onto the corner of the Easytouch primary control board. Hopefully that gives you a clue to figure it out. The water temp for shutoff, etc comes off of a temp sensor on your plumbing as you see in one part of this video.
anode does nothing for the pool externally if it is not in line with the water. None of your equipment or pool is protected by the anode
I disagree.
@@SwimmingintheDeep I guarantee you arent protecting any internal components because you have a bonding wire attached to an anode. The wire is to bond the anode but the anode has to be in contact with what you are trying to protect, ie tge pool water that cycles through all the components. your buried anode protects some of the minerals in your soil but thats about it
@@kmonty6188 but the water is also bonded when properly done, usually via a lug on the ladder in a fiberglass pool like mine. In addition, mine is bonded to the heater core of my pool heater. Together those two are always in contact with the water.
Bonding is separate function. The anode itself has to make contact not the wire. Bonding is done to keep everything the same potential so you dont get shocked. the anode itself has to be in the water, in line in the plumbing before or after filter. if your anode is buried in the ground it is bonded but not helping your pool or equipnent whatsoever.