LOL This happened to me THIS morning. But I got stupid lucky. I didn't even need my gauges. Just a quick peek showed me a sweater on the evaporator. Once that got dealt with, went to the roof to check the condenser to see what that 'choking' did the rest of the system. Luckily the only other issue was a bad fan cycler. My advanced refrigeration teacher always always hammered into my thick head, "check the simple stuff first, you new guys keep hunting for the strangest issues" That and "stick to one issue at a time". Thanks for the classes, I feel like I'm back in hvac school learning new stuff and re-learning old stuff.
This guy is the text book definition of a great manager/instructor. Wish we had people like this here. We have guys like Wayne Harrell and Thos Graham in Tx. Condescending sludge that bed with sheep way far in the back of the barn.
Your videos are awesome Bryan. The way you explain things is so easy to understand. You make it make sense to me. Keep up the great work. I look forward to every new topic discussed. You probably don't know how much so many people appreciate you sharing your wealth of knowledge about air conditioning. Okay I'm done sucking up for now haha
Very nice that you are relating the saturation temperature with the load on the Evap coil. Also, a very nice example of no fins on the coil as being a low load scenario although it has the proper airflow.
I’ve lost count amount of times I’ve seen insulation blown up against an evaporative coil and installation instructions left inside the coil case. We talk about in train all the time on every unit we touch to visually verify the meter and device and visually look at the evaporator. Noting those two things and then marking the outdoor with the metering device has been an absolutely invaluable practice.
Calculating the sensible heat ratio can also ensure proper airflow by verifying percentage of latent to sensible heat removal per manufacturer’s specs.
Step 1: why am I not absorbing heat? Is it airflow across the indoor coil or a dirty coil insulating the coil. Acouch against the return, crushed ducts, closed registers, a heat only duct system with a coil slapped on it.
I think it's for brevity's sake. What I get from his talk is the goal isn't to pull it ALL out, but the majority of it to determine if there were any "Just add two pounds" techs there in the past. Ruling that out would be the goal, and it's much faster to pull the majority out. Less dense volume, more time pulling that last charge.
Great training class Bryan! Could you do a class on system set up via communicating systems through stat and non communication units through control boards: air handlers and gas furnaces. Just a recommendation. Thanks
If you remove all the refrigerant to weight it what about the oil? What if someone added to much oil to the system weighing the refrigerant wont tell you that.
I really enjoy watching your great videos. Much respect 🙏👍. Whats your advice for individuals who are thinking about getting started with HVAC training and certification? Thanks!
Good class and I like all the videos I've seen. This one I would think you would have talked more about superheat readings. If you have low airflow, you will have low superheat. If you are low on charge you will have high superheat. This is what I initially look at when deciding between the 2. What are your thoughts?
You could have both at same time low air flow and low charge. Had one the other day showing high superheat , it was at a dentist office and the landlord did not want me to go inside and verify that the blower was running he told me that the air was coming out vents, so I proceeded to add charge 3 pounds in and suction pressure still very low. I hated that I couldn't go in to verify but I waited to the landlord got off my shoulders and hop in to find the blower motor bad. Replace blower motor and we were all good with the added 3 pounds. A Overcharge system will also give u a lower superheat.
As an experiment 8 years ago when I built my house, I put a 4 ton a-coil in my furnace and 1.5 ton condensing unit out side. It has cooled my 2500 square foot home for 8 years. It was a brand new 20 year old r-22 system that had been stored in a controlled environment. My head pressure runs about 450 on a 90 degree day. Above 100 degrees it bumped 500, but still cooled good. The unit was precharged with r-22 so thats what lm running in it, with some 134 to top it off. I added water misting jets on the condensing unit, that I turn on above 90 degrees. Those 4 misting jet drop the head temp about 150 psi even on A hundred degree day. No one believes the system works, I have to show it to most techs. My latest experiment is ground water. I have a well that I water my yard with, and the ground water is at 67 degrees. I took a 5 ton acoil and removed the small lines and installed 3/8 lines on the acoil and built a 3/4 inch copper tube manifold to feed my a-coil. I wanted volume not pressure, as I ran my ground water through it. I get 70 degree air out of that unit in my shop. I'm talking a 95 degree shop, and I'm seeing a 35 to 45 degree temp drop through the acoil. It can absorb a huge amount of heat. My water pump is drawing 4 amps at 20 psi pressure. I wanted to keep the waterflow high to keep the water pump pressure low, and reduce energy usage. This thing makes a ton of condensation water. I am in the process of install a water a coil under my freon acoil in my house furnace, and am going to experiment with 2 systems and see how they work together. I am adding the water a coil under my furnace so I can use it in the winter time also to heat the home. That way I don't loose heat from the gas fired heating unit, heating the 65 degree water in the water acoil. I'm thinking I should see a 70% work load reduction on heating and cooling with this system. At 4 amps I'm using about 480 Watts an hour to run my water pump which is about 6 cents an hour or a buck a day. I've tied a relay into the blower motor, and anytime the blower kicks on, the water pump kicks on for winter time use. During summer the water runs the water sprinklers and the water pump is running all the time anyways..
Nice experiment. I’m trying the same at my property, no ground water just some coils (1000+ feet) of poly pipe at 10+ feet deep (57ºF) Since your temperature differential is so small (67º water as you wrote) to the desired indoor temperature let me bring something to your attention: a water pump generates heat. We still looking for some pump system that don’t create that much heat. Believe it or not is a counterproductive dilemma. But try to measure the temperature if you can as close to the source without pump or any other interference. It might not be that different from pumped water, but trust me, in the end every little bit counts. KEEP THE CREATIVITY FLOWING AND PROSPER!!!
@@38kenaly keep the pressure and volume down. Heat comes from pressure. I keep my water pressure at about 15 psi. My water temp at the acoil is still 67 degrees.
Day 1 i was alwaya taught air flow is king. Always check air flow first. Dirty coils dirty filters etc. I was lucky to start in refrigeration. Little tougher. As for adding some refrigerant. Manitowoc does recommend on certain circumstances to add 2 lbs and see if your problem goes away. If it does you have a leak.
I believe the proper heat transfer into the evaporator and refrigerant won't happen unless there is proper air flow across the evap. For instance, the evaporator ultimately freezes with no airflow.
Bryan Hello, I believe you might be in FLORIDA ? If that’s it, what can you tell me about the contractors license ? Has NATE deem an item in place of the regular one, also have they made the license For MORE COUNTIES than it used to be ?, Anyhow, yes a SCALE is a requirement , rather than guess. Cheers 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
When you say low load that doesn't necessarily mean low air flow across that evap that can also mean that we are just too cold in the space correct. What would be a good way to determine that it's not just low entropy versus low air flow. At that point would I be looking at DT and delta t to determine which?
#1 reason I may overcharge a system is if i was in a rush. After having guages on probably 10000+ systems of all types, charging becomes 2nd nature if you know everything else is OK. Coils cleanliness, air filter, pull that crazy filtrete high Merv 1" air filter at least partially out if you want any chance of having correct air flow! Indoor/ outdoor temps etc. TXV? Sub cooling and check that bulb mounting 1st! Sorry for rant. Get charge close to full fast, then go slow. Refrigeration world you have to add more in many cases for cold ambient operation unless your charging when it's 0° outside and needing to warm your tank to get enough pressure inside of it to charge system 😉 Easpecially with having to liquid charge many refrigerants like like 410a, not even sure if such can be vapor charged! Properly charged at least without a fast charge/ metering device inline your hose gimmick. Open/ close your guage and "meter" in a little at a time to top off charge Always told liquid charge it and such ever since carrier came out with it "Puron".. I still hate it because of the way higher pressures vs. R22 and the fact that no one does a good job manufactuting coils anymore. The fact they say such refrigerants are "more efficient" fact that all equipment is disposable, most times all aluminum, irreparable for most part garbage we are forced to buy and install that is guaranteed to not last even 20 yrs these days I would never touch a CO2 system. Dived in the world of repairing flammable refrigerant units but not liking any of them systems also. I look forward to still learning something new in this trade everyday and maybe one day if I ever retire from I shall try to teach as well 🙂 Your videos are excellent sir
I am thankful that you were not my teacher in school. I did however experience The Misfortune of going to training classes that were managed by and taught by people like you. First off removing the refrigerant to verify what was in it is an expensive process and what you're asking us to do is charge a customer and extra $300 just so we can figure out how much refrigerant was in there. Refrigerant charge is based on the length of the line set and the plumbing attached to the unit the number of dryers that may be installed and the area of those dryers is what adds to the initial volume of refrigerant. Since the manufacturer took the time to put a chart right on the door to the instrument panel my advice to you would be start there. As far as measuring entity goes was only recently that someone came out with an instrument that you can poke into the supply and the return and compare the enthalpy in each to determine how many BTUs of cooling you are actually getting and it only takes about 10 or 15 minutes to do but at the time you made this video you're only option was inclined manometer and a variety of really crude field instruments which would not give you an accurate answer. All in all I am glad you are not my teacher in school and your tips and tricks all they do is inflate the cost of repairs to a lot more than they would have been had you just sent a competent person out there to check it to begin with. Which brings up the second problem, unfortunately competent technicians don't make much money contractors are only interested in sales quotas but good luck with your training class.
Keep’em Comming. These videos is how I learn. I don’t do books..
Love you sir ❤️❤️
Eddie....books are good... no battery required!
@@davejohnsonnola1536 yeah but im the type that’ll read and not comprehend.
@@eddiegomez3628 you better start comprehending when you read or you’ll be calling and annoying people your entire hvac career
@@dgonzo222 hmm 🤔 didn’t think of it that way.
LOL This happened to me THIS morning. But I got stupid lucky. I didn't even need my gauges. Just a quick peek showed me a sweater on the evaporator. Once that got dealt with, went to the roof to check the condenser to see what that 'choking' did the rest of the system. Luckily the only other issue was a bad fan cycler. My advanced refrigeration teacher always always hammered into my thick head, "check the simple stuff first, you new guys keep hunting for the strangest issues" That and "stick to one issue at a time". Thanks for the classes, I feel like I'm back in hvac school learning new stuff and re-learning old stuff.
This guy is the text book definition of a great manager/instructor. Wish we had people like this here. We have guys like Wayne Harrell and Thos Graham in Tx. Condescending sludge that bed with sheep way far in the back of the barn.
Your videos are awesome Bryan. The way you explain things is so easy to understand. You make it make sense to me. Keep up the great work. I look forward to every new topic discussed. You probably don't know how much so many people appreciate you sharing your wealth of knowledge about air conditioning. Okay I'm done sucking up for now haha
This dude is a great teacher
Good info! Love these vids cause we deal with a lot of the same conditions here in Hawaii, a lot of your content has the relevance we look for.
Very nice that you are relating the saturation temperature with the load on the Evap coil.
Also, a very nice example of no fins on the coil as being a low load scenario although it has the proper airflow.
really appreciate your help,I learn a lot from you more than I was in school..
I’ve lost count amount of times I’ve seen insulation blown up against an evaporative coil and installation instructions left inside the coil case. We talk about in train all the time on every unit we touch to visually verify the meter and device and visually look at the evaporator. Noting those two things and then marking the outdoor with the metering device has been an absolutely invaluable practice.
Another enjoyable class
I watched, waiting for you guys to teach us how to skew up a ribeye, must be in part 2.
Calculating the sensible heat ratio can also ensure proper airflow by verifying percentage of latent to sensible heat removal per manufacturer’s specs.
Good stuff Bryan 😁
How if there is not enough heat in the return air reduces the evaporator temperature?
Step 1: why am I not absorbing heat? Is it airflow across the indoor coil or a dirty coil insulating the coil. Acouch against the return, crushed ducts, closed registers, a heat only duct system with a coil slapped on it.
Thanks for the video
Great video 😊
Signed up for class. Excellent info! Where can I find the Cheat Chart you mentioned in the vid?
What about pulling your recovery in to a vacuum. Then adding charge with out opening to atmospheric pressure
I think it's for brevity's sake. What I get from his talk is the goal isn't to pull it ALL out, but the majority of it to determine if there were any "Just add two pounds" techs there in the past. Ruling that out would be the goal, and it's much faster to pull the majority out. Less dense volume, more time pulling that last charge.
Great training class Bryan! Could you do a class on system set up via communicating systems through stat and non communication units through control boards: air handlers and gas furnaces. Just a recommendation. Thanks
If you remove all the refrigerant to weight it what about the oil? What if someone added to much oil to the system weighing the refrigerant wont tell you that.
I really enjoy watching your great videos. Much respect 🙏👍. Whats your advice for individuals who are thinking about getting started with HVAC training and certification? Thanks!
Thank you so much sir
I love you sir ❤️❤️
Good class and I like all the videos I've seen. This one I would think you would have talked more about superheat readings. If you have low airflow, you will have low superheat. If you are low on charge you will have high superheat. This is what I initially look at when deciding between the 2. What are your thoughts?
You could have both at same time low air flow and low charge. Had one the other day showing high superheat , it was at a dentist office and the landlord did not want me to go inside and verify that the blower was running he told me that the air was coming out vents, so I proceeded to add charge 3 pounds in and suction pressure still very low. I hated that I couldn't go in to verify but I waited to the landlord got off my shoulders and hop in to find the blower motor bad. Replace blower motor and we were all good with the added 3 pounds. A Overcharge system will also give u a lower superheat.
As an experiment 8 years ago when I built my house, I put a 4 ton a-coil in my furnace and 1.5 ton condensing unit out side. It has cooled my 2500 square foot home for 8 years. It was a brand new 20 year old r-22 system that had been stored in a controlled environment. My head pressure runs about 450 on a 90 degree day. Above 100 degrees it bumped 500, but still cooled good. The unit was precharged with r-22 so thats what lm running in it, with some 134 to top it off. I added water misting jets on the condensing unit, that I turn on above 90 degrees. Those 4 misting jet drop the head temp about 150 psi even on A hundred degree day. No one believes the system works, I have to show it to most techs.
My latest experiment is ground water. I have a well that I water my yard with, and the ground water is at 67 degrees. I took a 5 ton acoil and removed the small lines and installed 3/8 lines on the acoil and built a 3/4 inch copper tube manifold to feed my a-coil. I wanted volume not pressure, as I ran my ground water through it. I get 70 degree air out of that unit in my shop. I'm talking a 95 degree shop, and I'm seeing a 35 to 45 degree temp drop through the acoil. It can absorb a huge amount of heat. My water pump is drawing 4 amps at 20 psi pressure. I wanted to keep the waterflow high to keep the water pump pressure low, and reduce energy usage. This thing makes a ton of condensation water. I am in the process of install a water a coil under my freon acoil in my house furnace, and am going to experiment with 2 systems and see how they work together. I am adding the water a coil under my furnace so I can use it in the winter time also to heat the home. That way I don't loose heat from the gas fired heating unit, heating the 65 degree water in the water acoil. I'm thinking I should see a 70% work load reduction on heating and cooling with this system. At 4 amps I'm using about 480 Watts an hour to run my water pump which is about 6 cents an hour or a buck a day. I've tied a relay into the blower motor, and anytime the blower kicks on, the water pump kicks on for winter time use. During summer the water runs the water sprinklers and the water pump is running all the time anyways..
Nice experiment. I’m trying the same at my property, no ground water just some coils (1000+ feet) of poly pipe at 10+ feet deep (57ºF) Since your temperature differential is so small (67º water as you wrote) to the desired indoor temperature let me bring something to your attention: a water pump generates heat. We still looking for some pump system that don’t create that much heat. Believe it or not is a counterproductive dilemma. But try to measure the temperature if you can as close to the source without pump or any other interference. It might not be that different from pumped water, but trust me, in the end every little bit counts. KEEP THE CREATIVITY FLOWING AND PROSPER!!!
@@38kenaly keep the pressure and volume down. Heat comes from pressure. I keep my water pressure at about 15 psi. My water temp at the acoil is still 67 degrees.
Day 1 i was alwaya taught air flow is king. Always check air flow first. Dirty coils dirty filters etc.
I was lucky to start in refrigeration. Little tougher.
As for adding some refrigerant.
Manitowoc does recommend on certain circumstances to add 2 lbs and see if your problem goes away. If it does you have a leak.
When you classes room training please let me know
Hi, people actually don't understand why evaporator temperature reduces when there is little load in the evaporator, can you please clear that doubt?
I believe the proper heat transfer into the evaporator and refrigerant won't happen unless there is proper air flow across the evap. For instance, the evaporator ultimately freezes with no airflow.
Bryan Hello, I believe you might be in FLORIDA ? If that’s it, what can you tell me about the contractors license ? Has NATE deem an item in place of the regular one, also have they made the license For MORE COUNTIES than it used to be ?, Anyhow, yes a SCALE is a requirement , rather than guess. Cheers 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thank you 🙏🏿
Good information
In my opinion a return air wet bulb temperature is one of the first readings you should take.
How about just saying and thinking” Low side heat transfer problem.
thankyou ❤
When you say low load that doesn't necessarily mean low air flow across that evap that can also mean that we are just too cold in the space correct. What would be a good way to determine that it's not just low entropy versus low air flow. At that point would I be looking at DT and delta t to determine which?
Correct. Low load could also mean space temperature is too cold. What kind of applications are you working on?
@@christianroberts1566 commercial rooftop unit
Michael Scott as an instructor , interesting
#1 reason I may overcharge a system is if i was in a rush.
After having guages on probably 10000+ systems of all types, charging becomes 2nd nature if you know everything else is OK. Coils cleanliness, air filter, pull that crazy filtrete high Merv 1" air filter at least partially out if you want any chance of having correct air flow! Indoor/ outdoor temps etc. TXV? Sub cooling and check that bulb mounting 1st!
Sorry for rant. Get charge close to full fast, then go slow. Refrigeration world you have to add more in many cases for cold ambient operation unless your charging when it's 0° outside and needing to warm your tank to get enough pressure inside of it to charge system 😉
Easpecially with having to liquid charge many refrigerants like like 410a, not even sure if such can be vapor charged!
Properly charged at least without a fast charge/ metering device inline your hose gimmick.
Open/ close your guage and "meter" in a little at a time to top off charge
Always told liquid charge it and such ever since carrier came out with it "Puron".. I still hate it because of the way higher pressures vs. R22 and the fact that no one does a good job manufactuting coils anymore.
The fact they say such refrigerants are "more efficient" fact that all equipment is disposable, most times all aluminum, irreparable for most part garbage we are forced to buy and install that is guaranteed to not last even 20 yrs these days
I would never touch a CO2 system.
Dived in the world of repairing flammable refrigerant units but not liking any of them systems also.
I look forward to still learning something new in this trade everyday and maybe one day if I ever retire from I shall try to teach as well 🙂
Your videos are excellent sir
Super heat
Approx 14:00, that didn't age well 🤪. 410a ain't so cheap these days...and the new ones coming are even more.
Check yourself before you wreck your yourself, that's a good one 🤣🤣🤣🤣
I am thankful that you were not my teacher in school. I did however experience The Misfortune of going to training classes that were managed by and taught by people like you. First off removing the refrigerant to verify what was in it is an expensive process and what you're asking us to do is charge a customer and extra $300 just so we can figure out how much refrigerant was in there. Refrigerant charge is based on the length of the line set and the plumbing attached to the unit the number of dryers that may be installed and the area of those dryers is what adds to the initial volume of refrigerant. Since the manufacturer took the time to put a chart right on the door to the instrument panel my advice to you would be start there. As far as measuring entity goes was only recently that someone came out with an instrument that you can poke into the supply and the return and compare the enthalpy in each to determine how many BTUs of cooling you are actually getting and it only takes about 10 or 15 minutes to do but at the time you made this video you're only option was inclined manometer and a variety of really crude field instruments which would not give you an accurate answer. All in all I am glad you are not my teacher in school and your tips and tricks all they do is inflate the cost of repairs to a lot more than they would have been had you just sent a competent person out there to check it to begin with. Which brings up the second problem, unfortunately competent technicians don't make much money contractors are only interested in sales quotas but good luck with your training class.
I just found out that a cat's jaw can't move sideways.
1:36 - You still spelled LI’L wrong. Jus’ sayin’
I cannot believe no one said basement return air cold as hell, Upstairs hot.
gooood
Cold outside
The 1 down vote was a guy who overcharged a system
Never listen to a guy who can't spell ENOUGH.. Jokes