Matt, going through some of your older videos, I'm trying to decide what steering box to use on our 30 A, I have boxed the rails, so the steering box will need to mount on top of the frame rail, what steering box did you use on the Sweet Heart Roadster? Thanks Matt!!
Hey Matt another great video. I pickup over this last weekend some additional parts fro my flathead 8ba motor. I also got a 3 speed column shift transmission with overdrive that is supposed to work with the flathead. I think it was out a later 40's pickup. I am trying to gather info about using this in my truck and just wanted to share. If you have any input feel free to send me a note :) thank you Matt
Hi Matt, sounds like you're getting a nice pile of parts going! I'm more of a fan of the simplicity of the floor shift 3spd flathead transmissions but nothing wrong with the column shift! Personally I'd find a floor shift conversion for that transmission, but you could get a steering box/column and the works out of say a 40 ford and use that in your car. There just may be some mods needed to get the linkage to all jive for the column shift if you want to keep the floor clean with the column shift. The only thing you may need is a later truck Flathead bellhousing (if your 8Ba doesn't have it) to mount the transmission you got. They're relatively easy to find and go for $80-100 all day on ebay or can be found for $50-60 at swap meets. Hope that helps!
Hey Matt, yes it is getting there. I got a little more info on the transmission it is a 1A-7006-A trans looking to be from 49- 53. I would prefer a floor shift trans, but didn't want to pass this one up. I think there are some Lokar or Hurst conversion kits to make the column shift into a floor shift. I need the floor shift for my Grabowski shift knob. I was able to get a bell housing, headers, starter and starter bracket, Fan and a left and right hand water pumps, clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing and timing gear along with the trans. I will hopefully have a new video soon to document this. I haven't had a lot of time in the garage here lately. Your info does help as always. Thanks Matt
Thanks. That's what I figured (spring rate, engine/trans weight/positioning, etc). I'll get the engine/trans mounted up and jump on it with some buddies to ensure clearance is adequate.
Its always something that can also be trimmed after a few road tests. You can drop the front spring/axle as one and trim out a little more if needed. -Mike/ITG
I converted earlier this summer to Milwaukee cordless and this M18 grinder has been used HARD in my shop. I almost exclusively use it now and it has kicked ass. The only thing is that it will drain the batteries quickly if you're doing heavy grinding or cutting for long periods of time (if the tool is real hot to the touch you know the batteries are draining quick). The BIG batteries are a must when using the grinder heavily. I got the smaller of the two grinders because I wanted the lighter weight for cutting in/on vehicles. I am so happy to not have a tangle of cords inside a project and tripping all over tools when working. I'm planning to get the sheet metal shears and a few other tools here soon from the same line.
The smaller sized 18V. The real big cordless grinder is too large for working in and on cars I've found. I use the hell out of this one I have. Has paid for itself many times over! -Matt/ITG
So if you use a factory cross member you don't have to notch the frame .when you say factory do you mean after market you can buy .im not being sarcastic .i want to build a vicky style body on a 32 frame and I want it to have the frame horns and I want the front axle in the same position he has in the video .i don't want the front axle and spring setting all the way out in the front like you see on so many tbucket .and info would be greatly appreciated.
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nice clean work matt, its gonna be sick when u drop in that caddy motor. truly inspiring videos very informative but not boring af. thanks
Thanks Caleb that's what I'm going for, informative, but not too long and drawn out it puts everyone to sleep!
Looking good matt
Looking good
Matt, going through some of your older videos, I'm trying to decide what steering box to use on our 30 A, I have boxed the rails, so the steering box will need to mount on top of the frame rail, what steering box did you use on the Sweet Heart Roadster? Thanks Matt!!
Hey Matt another great video. I pickup over this last weekend some additional parts fro my flathead 8ba motor. I also got a 3 speed column shift transmission with overdrive that is supposed to work with the flathead. I think it was out a later 40's pickup. I am trying to gather info about using this in my truck and just wanted to share. If you have any input feel free to send me a note :) thank you Matt
Hi Matt, sounds like you're getting a nice pile of parts going! I'm more of a fan of the simplicity of the floor shift 3spd flathead transmissions but nothing wrong with the column shift! Personally I'd find a floor shift conversion for that transmission, but you could get a steering box/column and the works out of say a 40 ford and use that in your car. There just may be some mods needed to get the linkage to all jive for the column shift if you want to keep the floor clean with the column shift. The only thing you may need is a later truck Flathead bellhousing (if your 8Ba doesn't have it) to mount the transmission you got. They're relatively easy to find and go for $80-100 all day on ebay or can be found for $50-60 at swap meets. Hope that helps!
Hey Matt, yes it is getting there. I got a little more info on the transmission it is a 1A-7006-A trans looking to be from 49- 53. I would prefer a floor shift trans, but didn't want to pass this one up. I think there are some Lokar or Hurst conversion kits to make the column shift into a floor shift. I need the floor shift for my Grabowski shift knob. I was able to get a bell housing, headers, starter and starter bracket, Fan and a left and right hand water pumps, clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing and timing gear along with the trans. I will hopefully have a new video soon to document this. I haven't had a lot of time in the garage here lately. Your info does help as always. Thanks Matt
Hey Matt, what radiator are you going to use with a flat bottom front crossmember?
Your intro song is really cool! Please let us know her for us. Sua música de introdução é muito legal! Informe sobre ela para nós.
Looks good. How much front spring to frame clearance do you think is sufficient?
It all depends on the amount of spring travel. Some springs travel more then others, so its more of a case by case basis. -Mike/ITG
Thanks. That's what I figured (spring rate, engine/trans weight/positioning, etc). I'll get the engine/trans mounted up and jump on it with some buddies to ensure clearance is adequate.
Its always something that can also be trimmed after a few road tests. You can drop the front spring/axle as one and trim out a little more if needed. -Mike/ITG
@@IronTrapGarage Or put a spacer behind the spring for a little bit more clearance
How the m18 grinder? Would you recommend?
I converted earlier this summer to Milwaukee cordless and this M18 grinder has been used HARD in my shop. I almost exclusively use it now and it has kicked ass. The only thing is that it will drain the batteries quickly if you're doing heavy grinding or cutting for long periods of time (if the tool is real hot to the touch you know the batteries are draining quick). The BIG batteries are a must when using the grinder heavily. I got the smaller of the two grinders because I wanted the lighter weight for cutting in/on vehicles. I am so happy to not have a tangle of cords inside a project and tripping all over tools when working. I'm planning to get the sheet metal shears and a few other tools here soon from the same line.
is ur Milwaukee grinder a 12 or 18 volt ?
The smaller sized 18V. The real big cordless grinder is too large for working in and on cars I've found. I use the hell out of this one I have. Has paid for itself many times over! -Matt/ITG
I would of used a factory style cross member, screw all that extra work
So if you use a factory cross member you don't have to notch the frame .when you say factory do you mean after market you can buy .im not being sarcastic .i want to build a vicky style body on a 32 frame and I want it to have the frame horns and I want the front axle in the same position he has in the video .i don't want the front axle and spring setting all the way out in the front like you see on so many tbucket .and info would be greatly appreciated.