Of course your sparking high voltage to ground, you are poking holes on your protective boots so of course it will jump. it will happen with any set of plugs and wires when you gopoking holes in your boots.. Your light is providing the least amount of resistance to ground. so of course it will spark. Chances are good you have waaaay more resistance in the plugs than the test light. as you should.
@iRepairElectronics I ohm tested all the summit wires this morning and only 3 were in or near advertised resistance of 50 ohm per foot, the others were 250-ish and up and yes the distributor boots on those wires do seem thinner than the wires I replaced them with and also tested.
I love seeing technical information and testing like this. Every little bit helps, and besides your time, it's practically free to do. Thanks for posting this!
@@JohnChrysostom101 check Brian Salter racing video here at 18 minute mark for further explanation, I copied his test to see if I had high resistance in the circuit (I was feeling a slight miss at idle so wanted to check) th-cam.com/video/C_LZvbyN1-s/w-d-xo.html -
I'm not dismissing Brian's words or methods, but when you're working on your car, especially timing it, don't forget that you've made it easy for the spark to jump out at bite you too! Sure electricity will take the path of least resistance, and you may be it. I found out the hard way timing a customers car and the spark went through my sweating wrist and out through my elbow.
Oh yeah I'm sure there are good ones, these are the house brand wires from Summit I took a chance on them as most people say they are comparable to MSD for way less money, maybe I will try to shrink wrap the cap ends or something and try to insulate them better or something. Thanks for checking out my video!
I've been racing over 30 years. I've run relatively cheap wires, fairly expensive wires, 8mm wires, 10 mm wires, 8.5 mm wires, you name it, as long as they werent 200+ bucks a set, I've probably tried them. As long as the wires arent burnt, or have loose ends, I've never seen one iota difference in how the car runs. Never. Maybe if I was running some 6 second Top Sportsman car I would have seen a difference, but for a ten flat bracket car, nope, nothing.
@@hetzlerracing5490 yep, these "Standard' wires aren't arcing like the "expensive" wires are and I think the idle is a little more even too. Thanks Rob and Merry Christmas to you and your family!
Exactly.....Taylor, Livewires, Moroso, Accel, MSD, Jacobs Electronics.....50 to 800 ohms per foot. OEM.....2K to 3K ohms per foot, and with a 6 box.....never missed a beat. I only check wire resistance in case of a misfire and that usually leads to a burned wire or corroded terminal at the cap. I've been doing gasoline drive ability for Ford for 18 years now......if you want the least resistance, go COP!
@@vica153 yeah im just going to grab them local or from Summit, Leary of any name brand stuff on Amazon unless you know the seller is reputable also plugs I've got off Amazon are not packaged as well as a box from Summit.
i replaced the plugs in my ford focus and not long had a misfire in no 1. Swaped coils and no better. could not get bit thought it could not be the plug. Finally pulled it and found the electrode was loose and moving down and stopping the arc,
@@russellbroadwell thanks! watch the Brian Salter video "electrical tips and trips" at the 18 min mark he shows the test procedure. Merry Christmas and thanks for checking out my video!
@vrm86gt I saw it the other day, it just pains me to poke a hole in a new wire. I just got $100 wires for my parts cannon. I might try it on the old ones.
Probably not smart poking holes in spark plug boots there buddy if the light lights up where u think that sparks gunna go after u poked hole in it 🤔... not to mention moisture capability to enter thru your lil test hole 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤷🏽
It was common practice to poke a distributor boot to test spark. A quality book with dielectric grease would keep the moisture away, but you're absolutely right..... 20 years ago, while timing a customer's car, the spark jumped to my sweaty wrist and out through my elbow. The stock coil wouldn't have been so bad, but a Crane Hi-6 ignition box and coil hurt pretty good.
Cant you also take an ohm meter to the wire? I mean it should be obviously higher resistance. If you get the suppliers specs for ohms per foot, you can do the math for length of wire, and see if its in spec to begin with. I run the moroso ultra 40's to hopefully avoid most of this.
Speaking of money, do you mind if I ask, how do you run your racing operation there?? Are you a business that claims profit/loss at the end of the year on your taxes (like with the self employment form) or do you have a crap load of money burning holes in your pockets?? I understand if it's to much to answer, I'm at that point of deciding what I should be doing so I thought I would ask someone that's doing the ind of stuff I wanna go do. Thanks!!
That's dumb , use an ohmmeter .... The resistance is important to limit the current in the secondary winding , either resistor plugs or resistor wires , just not both and you'll be ok ...
@@TheIAMINU I did ohm test them 5 of the 8 we're way over advertised ohm rating (50 ohm per foot), I'm going to have my wife film and I will run through the ohm test.
@@vrm86gta multimeter is a better way to test. I stick to the MSD 8.5mm wire. Buy it by the foot and make your own wires, but do yourself a favor and don't kill yourself trying to squeeze resistance out of the wire. The OEM wires were 2k to 3k ohms at factory length. They ran fine.
no stereo, only electronics are the ignition box on here now but yes I agree the solid core wires are probably best for racing! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Of course your sparking high voltage to ground, you are poking holes on your protective boots so of course it will jump. it will happen with any set of plugs and wires when you gopoking holes in your boots..
Your light is providing the least amount of resistance to ground. so of course it will spark.
Chances are good you have waaaay more resistance in the plugs than the test light. as you should.
@@iRepairElectronics well then why did the other plug wires not spark? I punched holes in those also
@ i suspect the rubber on the new other set closed up better.
@iRepairElectronics I ohm tested all the summit wires this morning and only 3 were in or near advertised resistance of 50 ohm per foot, the others were 250-ish and up and yes the distributor boots on those wires do seem thinner than the wires I replaced them with and also tested.
@ did you ohm test the test light?
@iRepairElectronics I can try that
Awesome video Donald! Good troubleshooting! That’s a great tip on checking resistance in the spark plug wires! Hard to beat OEM parts!
I love seeing technical information and testing like this. Every little bit helps, and besides your time, it's practically free to do. Thanks for posting this!
@@306foxbody1 thanks Todd and Merry Christmas to you and your family!
@vrm86gt Merry Christmas to you and your family as well!!! I can't wait to see your car run at the track again!!!👍👍 Hopefully soon!🤞
Wait poke a hole in the boot? You are completing the circut and damaging the protection lol WTH haha!
@@JohnChrysostom101 check Brian Salter racing video here at 18 minute mark for further explanation, I copied his test to see if I had high resistance in the circuit (I was feeling a slight miss at idle so wanted to check)
th-cam.com/video/C_LZvbyN1-s/w-d-xo.html -
I'm not dismissing Brian's words or methods, but when you're working on your car, especially timing it, don't forget that you've made it easy for the spark to jump out at bite you too!
Sure electricity will take the path of least resistance, and you may be it. I found out the hard way timing a customers car and the spark went through my sweating wrist and out through my elbow.
I have put name brand low resistance wires and had awesome performance on multiple cars
Oh yeah I'm sure there are good ones, these are the house brand wires from Summit I took a chance on them as most people say they are comparable to MSD for way less money, maybe I will try to shrink wrap the cap ends or something and try to insulate them better or something. Thanks for checking out my video!
I've been racing over 30 years. I've run relatively cheap wires, fairly expensive wires, 8mm wires, 10 mm wires, 8.5 mm wires, you name it, as long as they werent 200+ bucks a set, I've probably tried them. As long as the wires arent burnt, or have loose ends, I've never seen one iota difference in how the car runs. Never. Maybe if I was running some 6 second Top Sportsman car I would have seen a difference, but for a ten flat bracket car, nope, nothing.
@@hetzlerracing5490 yep, these "Standard' wires aren't arcing like the "expensive" wires are and I think the idle is a little more even too. Thanks Rob and Merry Christmas to you and your family!
Exactly.....Taylor, Livewires, Moroso, Accel, MSD, Jacobs Electronics.....50 to 800 ohms per foot. OEM.....2K to 3K ohms per foot, and with a 6 box.....never missed a beat.
I only check wire resistance in case of a misfire and that usually leads to a burned wire or corroded terminal at the cap. I've been doing gasoline drive ability for Ford for 18 years now......if you want the least resistance, go COP!
Fake "name brand" spark plugs seem to be quite common when purchasing online. Good idea to measure plug resistance is within spec on new plugs.
@@vica153 yeah im just going to grab them local or from Summit, Leary of any name brand stuff on Amazon unless you know the seller is reputable also plugs I've got off Amazon are not packaged as well as a box from Summit.
i replaced the plugs in my ford focus and not long had a misfire in no 1. Swaped coils and no better. could not get bit thought it could not be the plug. Finally pulled it and found the electrode was loose and moving down and stopping the arc,
@@55chevytruck nice and easy fix!
Awesome stuff! That’s a cool little trick!
Thanks JD and Merry Christmas to you and your family!
@ Thank you!!! Merry Christmas to you and your family also!!!
Great video i should do mine.
@@russellbroadwell thanks! watch the Brian Salter video "electrical tips and trips" at the 18 min mark he shows the test procedure. Merry Christmas and thanks for checking out my video!
@vrm86gt I saw it the other day, it just pains me to poke a hole in a new wire. I just got $100 wires for my parts cannon. I might try it on the old ones.
@@russellbroadwell I know I felt the same! A dab of liquid electrical tape over the punctured area should take care of it!
Probably not smart poking holes in spark plug boots there buddy if the light lights up where u think that sparks gunna go after u poked hole in it 🤔... not to mention moisture capability to enter thru your lil test hole 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤷🏽
Exactly the guy is nuts or listening to absolute idiots when drunk he is creating a spark path same as cracked old plug wires hahahahaha!
It was common practice to poke a distributor boot to test spark. A quality book with dielectric grease would keep the moisture away, but you're absolutely right.....
20 years ago, while timing a customer's car, the spark jumped to my sweaty wrist and out through my elbow. The stock coil wouldn't have been so bad, but a Crane Hi-6 ignition box and coil hurt pretty good.
@@arturozarate1752 ahh lil pinchy never hurts 🤣🤣 well just for a second ⚡️⚡️😂😂
NASCAR spark plug wires on ebay is the way to go.
@@lumbeewarrior2560 I was looking at those!
Cant you also take an ohm meter to the wire? I mean it should be obviously higher resistance. If you get the suppliers specs for ohms per foot, you can do the math for length of wire, and see if its in spec to begin with. I run the moroso ultra 40's to hopefully avoid most of this.
yes, I can test that
Now do you silicone the holes shut? ... I would think the current would take the least resistant and shortest path ... just wonderin ...
@@joewolf4483 yes, that or the liquid electrical tape, maybe I will heat shrink on top of that too
Speaking of money, do you mind if I ask, how do you run your racing operation there?? Are you a business that claims profit/loss at the end of the year on your taxes (like with the self employment form) or do you have a crap load of money burning holes in your pockets?? I understand if it's to much to answer, I'm at that point of deciding what I should be doing so I thought I would ask someone that's doing the ind of stuff I wanna go do. Thanks!!
@@retorq I have a budget of what I allow myself each month on my hobby
@@vrm86gt well damn, that was the answer I was afraid of 🤣😂
Not easy enough to simply measure resistance with a multimeter?
@@vica153 I did that too
That's dumb , use an ohmmeter .... The resistance is important to limit the current in the secondary winding , either resistor plugs or resistor wires , just not both and you'll be ok ...
@@TheIAMINU I did ohm test them 5 of the 8 we're way over advertised ohm rating (50 ohm per foot), I'm going to have my wife film and I will run through the ohm test.
@@vrm86gta multimeter is a better way to test. I stick to the MSD 8.5mm wire. Buy it by the foot and make your own wires, but do yourself a favor and don't kill yourself trying to squeeze resistance out of the wire. The OEM wires were 2k to 3k ohms at factory length. They ran fine.
pure copper is best for racing but you need resistance wires for your radio stereo and todays cars the computers
no stereo, only electronics are the ignition box on here now but yes I agree the solid core wires are probably best for racing! Thanks for watching and commenting!