No Fence Miter Station
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ย. 2024
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This is a quick look at the construction of my No Fence Miter Station. If you'd like detailed plans and a full set of videos, head over to the Guild. thewoodwhisper...
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This is a quick look at the construction of my No Fence Miter Station. If you'd like detailed plans and a full set of videos, head over to the Guild. thewoodwhispererguild.com/product/miter-station/
Movable cleats for the saw section. Come on Marc, you'll never get another miter saw. :)
Your the man. A huge fence is such a bad idea thanks for making that point. And that looks like a universally good set up for anyone.
Several times your driver looked like it had a Forstner bit and expected a big hole and then it wasn’t there. What was that ?
@@derekw40 amzn.to/32Ef7E0
Thanks Marc what an awesome tool I sometimes go overboard on countersinks 😁
That 2 second bit where you nail through tape then putty over the tape to hide the nails is genius. Wish I'd known that trick before now.
TH-cam has been invaluable for picking up small bits of wisdom from seasoned pro's... that's another really cool one.
I had to rewind to look at that and figure out what just happened. Agreed, that is a "genius" trick.
I missed that.. can someone time-tag it? 😊
Great tool which will not disappoint. A little on the pricey side but the convenience factor is really nice.Update: 11/3/18 - Still works great th-cam.com/users/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe and not disappointed at with the purchase. Wish I could have bought this at the lower price but ah well. This miter saw is truly awesome after two years of use. Makes cutting quick without messing around. I leant this tool to a friend for trim work at his home. He returned after using my saw and bought one for himself. I guess his demo with my saw was the deciding factor
I have this guild project, highly recommend it. It’s very thorough, Marc is a great instructor!
Thanks Stanley!
1:26 When you have a T-track you basicly also have the oppetunety to add a piece of fence wherever it is convienient depending on the lenght of the piece you wish to cut. Half a meter of fence that you can slide along the T-track and push all out of the way when not in use, could be handy 😊
Great build bud! I think you're the first woodworker on TH-cam that I've seen actually use a respirator the whole time when cutting and finishing things. Thank you! I haven't seen anyone else do this, and most don't even use them when using finishes. I am very appreciative for you modeling good respiratory safety around dust and vapors. It's so important to lung health to protect them. Everyone else is just modeling how to fuck them up to everyone who doesn't know any better. So thank you again for that!!!
simple . effective and practical. No extra wasted on over engineering like many videos have. Especially the point about the long fence guide.
Mark this video was right on time.. was getting ready to purchase aluminum fences and expensive stops.. I love the fencers approach.. never looked at it that way.. thanks again 👍😊❤️
I'm planning on making myself a set of drawers that will sit on top of my cabinets to act as extension beds for my miter saw. Glad I watched this...really don't need the fence, and this made me realize it.
A great idea with no loss of bench space! You make building cabinets look quick and easy (with the right tools of course).
It's more the editing than the tools. :)
Very good setup very good job
Thanks for showing how you put everything together
Fantastic project Marc. I’ve always wondered why some miter stations have such long fences and why they are necessary. In one quick statement you answered by demonstrating what happens when a piece of lumber is not perfectly square. Since I use my miter saw mostly for breaking down long boards that makes a lot of sense. As you said, the accuracy of the cut is at the blade not the end of a long fence. I also like your cabinet design. Easy and fairly quick. Thanks for the inspiration.
A perfectly square station with long fences can enable you to easily cut long sections of wood and to a very precise measurements that are also square.
bighand69 that was my point. I don’t use my miter saw for precision cutting and if, as Marc suggested, the long board isn’t perfectly straight then the cut at the saw will not be 90 degrees. My miter saw is mainly for cutting long boards to approximate lengths. The only precision cuts at the miter saw is on shorter lengths and I prefer to use my table saw if accuracy is extremely important.
Very timely, I think this is my next major shop project. Now to find time to dedicate to it.
When I first saw your no fence setup and stops/T-tracks on the surface, it made total sense. It's clean and I'll eventually do a similar setup. - Jim
I like the free version and watching the video good techniques and hints along the way. And awesome toe kicks. Thanks for posting.
Robin Lewis posted a video not long ago about a miter saw station that he built without fences. The difference between his and yours is that his T-track is not recessed for the reason you mentioned that some people may want to consider an extended fence; to keep him from using it as a storage bench. Even though I would probably be inclined to do the same, the recessed T-track does look a lot nicer. you did a great job with that as usual.
Excellent - Awsome vid with just the juice and none of the pulp 👌
I like this a lot. Great idea to use the tracks and no fence.
That really is a great set up. I couldn’t agree more about not having a fence. I built a mobile miter stand using plans from Brad (FTBT) and I didn’t get precise with the fence and it’s off just a touch. It was one of my first projects so I didn’t think about the precision of the fence. So I focus on the fence on the saw. Maybe I’ll remove the fence and look into installing a track for a stop and tape measure. Anyway...you do really good work.
I put a t-track, and made a fence from 20x60 V-slot that I am able to mount, and slide into the t-track.
Extrusions make life sooo much easier. (Especially when you only have use of 1 arm/leg, like myself.)
My fence fur my saw is also my plywood storage system so behind my fence is my sheet goods. Great discussion on this topic.
Just the other day I moved my mitre saw forward about 15mm. I still have the fence as it’s attached to a cabinet but now the timber does not utilise the fence although I am still able to use the stop block.
Awesome tip about offsetting the saw!
Good build and explination.👍👍😁 Now I'm going to watch Friday live thanks.2 wood whisperers in one day yay.
So glad you are making videos again! I have nothing to add but I'm liking and interacting.
Again? I never knew he stopped?
@@andrewv5104 it's been at least 26 minutes since his last video.
Finally, a common sense Miter Station video !!!!!!
I knew there was a reason you was my Hero 😘
I thought I was the wind beneath your wings? I guess I'll settle for hero.
Excellent video. I’ve always felt the long fence was unnecessary. I’m glad I wasn’t the only one
You know Marc,
I've been watching a lot of your older videos... You are a very good educator of woodworking. I'm just sayin'!
Thank you for this video. I have been saying the same thing in my shop at work for year.
Awesome build sir. I built my shop cabinets/miter station extremely similar to yours and I love it. Fenceless all the way. Do you find yourself using the measurement on the Incra T-track often? Or do you mark the boards you are cutting after measuring separately? Trying to decide if integrating a measurement tape into my work surface is worth it.
I remember seeing your video before this one, it was interesting
You no longer have slide compound saw ?
I like your idea of a T-track for stops, and you're right about using the surface being easier without a fence in the way.
My own solution was to mount the saw on the same level as the workbench top, not 3 1/2" below, then build 2 long boxes 3 1/2" tall, a few feet long as dictated by the workbench length, and a vertical back on the boxes that extends a few inches upward to allow clamping stops to it. Also a horizontal flange in the back of each box with star knobs on bolts that thread through the flange into nuts set into the workbench top, for precise re-locating, should the boxes need to be moved. The boxes are made mostly from 1/4" plywood, divided into drawer sections by 1/2" plywood dividers (which being vertical, are also the main supports for the weight of the workpieces being cut), and the mini drawers that slide into these spaces are simply glued and pinned small boxes made from the 1/4", since they don't hold that much (the small clamps for stops, tape measure, pencil, etc.). Since they're precisely located with the knobbed bolts, a tape measure decal on the clamping backer can remain accurate.
I've never understood why people like fences. Your setup is much more sensible. Thanks for sharing.
Long fences are great for cutting long sections that need to be square. If you are doing many of them it means you do not have to go messing around and can just put it up against the long fence with ease.
When doing hundreds of long cuts it makes it really easy.
Cutting plywood on those foam pads is such a great idea. I never thought to use those
Congrats on 597K!
Very nice , like the offsetting
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Nice preview video! I was laughing because I already had it in mind to comment "but the fence tells me where I can pile crap or not!" (In reality i pile crap on both sides, it's just more long term crap on the back side of the fence)
I’ve seen the countersink bit in other videos. Who makes it? The whole thing makes perfect sense. Going to rethink my plan. Thanks.
I like the slide out trays, nice idea 🤓👍
Running a makerspace we have an issue with the flat space junk collection. So we have a fence more as a method of keeping members from junking it up.
Awesome video Marc, on my list to make!
And also, why the two t-tracks on each side? Thanks again.
Great job!
The introduction to this video separates it from the masses of miter saw projects on the internet, but you might not realize it unless you have already constructed a miter station. Stock is often not straight, and especially if you use your miter saw to rough cut rough stock, the long, perfect extra fence you added gets in the way of the stock being against the fence at the blade. I have often thought I would be better off without the extra fence, but only now, with a new miter saw, am I going to do something about it.
I do the same thing! Thanks for making this video.
Your off-cuts and scraps looks like my wood stock pile...
Not really interested in doing a miter station like this (mine is mobile), but I do LOVE the magnetic stop on the bandsaw. Why haven't I ever seen anybody do that before?
I was intrigued by your magnetic stop you used on your bandsaw table and thought that could be a handy addition to my workshop, so typed it into Amazon. I thought it was a mistake but no, here in the UK it’s £124 for this magnet. Wow no magnet for me.
where did you buy the RTA cabinets from?
I was looking for the same thing... Went to rtacabinetstore.com and that wasn't it. Id like to find just the boxes like he had.
Nevermind.... Found it below (Adam L Cabinotch)
does the track fill up with saw dust?
Was wondering what made you decide to cut the toe kicks into the side panels and not build a separate toe kick frame?
You are awesome , i agree on that
Hi Marc, why two t tracks? Not sure why you have one in front of the fence...
Human sacrifice, dogs and cats living together... mass hysteria!
Bill is that you?
My miter saw table is about 8” taller than my side out feed table. I have 2 or 3 vertical 3/4” plywood supports. To support the work piece. This lets me clutter stuff on the wings but my workpieces just pass right over the top. I also have a fence though so I can use stop blocks. In theory, I could make the fence humble of the saw fence and get the best of everything.
Any way you can post a pic of your miter station? it sounds interesting. Thanks.
Good video. Then again there’s shorter wings for support rather then alignment? I typically leave tools on flat surfaces.
So you ditched Bosch saw? I just ordered one after watching one of your videos.
For the movable cleats, whats the preferred method for creating the slots? Router or drill bit multiple times?
I love this station
Another stellar build Mr. Whisperer! Where did you get the RTA cabinets. I figure if you can use them, I can at least consider it.
Cabinotch
That’s pretty good pricing. Considering the time involved to build them, it’s definitely worth doing.
I notice that you have 2 T-slots. One appears to be aligned just behind the fence. The other is set well in front of the fence. Can you please explain why two are necessary?
Mark, what is the reason for the cut outs as opposed to pocket holed stretcher?
I'm just about to do my shop build and in the planning stage. So happy I saw this video first. I have a 26' wall where the miter is going to go. I'm considering putting my jointer in there at the same height so I can get double use out of the miter bench. Do you see any reason that would be a terrible idea?
Great video as usual! What’s the purpose of the 2nd t-slot in the table?
more options, nice budget... and to show off his fancy Festool big ass saw track with router attachment...ha.
I'm building this exact station
Thanks for posting this. What dimensions are your toe kicks?
Someday I will have the time to build this. Not today, or anytime soon. But someday.
because of the sloped ground did you fit toekicks afterward so dust and debris will not get under the cabinetry?
How necessary is it to attach it to the wall? My shop will be in a garage that has a concrete block base wall to 26" height. Which, of course, means the stud wall is recessed a few inches. So, should I just cut the table top deeper to the drywall to compensate?
I need this setup
I have the same brand saw, great saw but any dust collection that occurs is accidental! Lol
Would 1/2" plywood be acceptable instead of 3/4? Cost is a concern for me, as I'm new to woodworking, and would hate to ruin an expensive sheet of 3/4 plywood if I made a mistake.
You can absolutely use 1/2" plywood. You could also use other materials with it if you desire as well. And you could in certain sections use two to create 1 inch for extra strength.
You could also use half inch 1/2" and 3/4" together to keep cost down. I would highly recomment using a biscuit joiner for building cabinets as you will fly through the process.
@@bighands69
CeleRL says; "Cost is a concern for me" and you say buy a biscuit joiner!
CeleRL you don't need a biscuit joiner, you can build anything without one.
@@brewsterly2927
You do not need a biscuit jointer. And can do it with screws and if you do decide to go that route have a look at some of the jig you can create for screw jointing. You can make the jigs out of simple bits of wood.
Biscuit joiners are fast,accurate and you could produce several cabinets in the time it would take to use screws.
If you are intending to work for yourself then a biscuit joiner is a great tool and there is nothing worth with just screws.
Why did you have 2 tracks for stops on this no fence workstation ?
Great build! Where did you get the RTAs?
Every tutorial on TH-cam uses 2x4s for the carcasses. Apparently plywood is enough to hold the huge bench top, whatever is inside the drawers, and a super heavy miter saw?
What do you think about those rulers on the incra t tracks? I got the same track and really not happy with the inserts since they are in multiple sections, and having a hard time finding another brand that will slide into it.
Honestly I never use it. Never calibrated them and then I had one tear at some point so never gave them much more thought.
Marc, I asked this questions a few months back. I am thinking about building a "fence-less" system and would like to know how you calibrated your stop to the ruler?
I honestly haven't. It came with the t-track I purchase but I haven't bothered trying to do any kind of calibration. I just use my tape measure.
@@woodwhisperer Of course!! No replacement for the good old Tape! Anyways, good stuff Marc! Keep it up! But I had a question about your counter top on this project? Did you use any product to harden them??
I like your design, but I'd be worried about beating up my counter tops, if they were made from plywood?
That is kinda what I plan on for my radial arm saw. Its only going to cut 90 dgr cuts once it set up it should be plenty accurate. Yes Norm tool. But I've always liked them even back in the 60s.
Say what you will but your not going to move it from job to job. I will move my miter saw.
Where do you get those nifty router bit storage trays, those look like something I could really use! Thx
Great video! Really appreciate the fresh outlook. Where do you find the magnetic feather board you use in the video? Much appreciated. Thanks
@8:08 Kramer!
How do you like that DeWalt miter saw. What happened to the Bosch? About to buy one of the two.
IM building my miter station 100% like yours
where did you get the saw shroud on your table saw?
17 years ago I built the Norm Abrams version for my miter station. At the time everything made great sense. Now you show me much better ways to do the top and storage. There is no way I am going to completely rebuild my miter station but I certainly am going to retrofit the top and (no)fence parts. Thank you for some great ideas. You and Norm are my hero's.
Where can I get those leveling feet?
Great build! Anyway to just buy the plans, without videos?
Maybe? Yes? No?
Hi Marc,
At 2:51, what's that thick pink board exactly under the plywood sheets when you're cutting them with the track saw?
Great build and I like the idea of no long fence but I am definitely someone who clutters any available horizontal surface. I am looking to get the Festool domino (it seems like every person on youtube uses it to make the furniture I want to start making). When you were filling up your cabinets I saw that you have both the Domino and the XL. If you were to only have one which one would you go with? I really liked the dining table you made recently and the Hank chair (those are the projects I would like to start making).
www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/domino-df500-vs-domino-xl-df700-which-is-right-for-me/
Kyle Carson you can use the smaller cutters on the XL if you get an adapter made by Seneca. I have the XL and love it.
Marc, you didn't touch on the zero clearance fence in your guild video, I see it's a new addition. Is there a video explainer somewhere on how you built that? My Dewalt fence isn't fully straight, thinking I could correct that with a zero clearance back-fence like yours... thanks!
Andrew Edmond really not much to it. Just plywood screwed in from the back of the fence.
Surely there are bolts for adjustment, and a square??
@@brewsterly2927 There isn't a fence adjustment on the Dewalt. Just adjust the detents in the front to square you fence.
@@xblindfolded That's very rough from Dewalt.
Hi Marc, how long did it take to build that awesome mitre saw station?
Marc, great project video. It appears that the Dewalt miter saw is not the sliding cut version, but this miter station would work great with zero clearance miter saw. Could you tell me what the name of the overhead arm above your table saw? If it's a DIY project, can you tell me name of video? Thanks again for the great miter saw station tip.
Tony J Brett guard. They don’t make them anymore unfortunately.
Look nice. Any thoughts on height? I also went "fenceless" in the new shop I built last summer. But another thing I did because my eyes and back are both getting old, is that I raised the height of the saw deck to 42", about elbow height and about the same as the keyboard height on my stand up computer station. This seems to make it easier to read the tape measure and to line up cuts, and seems easier on my back too. Sometimes I think I should have gone even higher, maybe up to 48 inches. I haven't been able to find any discussion on this anywhere. I wonder if anyone else has put any thought into how high a miter saw really should be?
If you had a fence with a measured stopping system you would not need a measuring tape and could easily cut to an exact length.
Just food for thought.
What brand T track are you using?
Incra.
Thank you. Been thinking about doing that same in my shop and you convinced me. Who makes the gold T-Track you used? Thank you.
Incra.
If it was 6ft on either side your capacity would be 12ft not just 6ft. All you have to support is up to the center point of a workpiece for it to balance on the countertop.
The2ndPatriot I suppose if you have lots of extra room. But if you have cabinets and walls on either side to the miter station, 6’ to the left and right means a 6’ limit.
+The2ndPatriot
You cannot make a cut 12 feet long if you only have 6 feet on each side. You could put a 12 foot board on the station to cut but you could only cut it in half.
I am not saying many people will need to make 12 foot cuts. Just looking at what you were saying.
8 feet is more than enough for many people.
Why 2 t tracks in the top?
Sacrelegious and some how witchcraft. I love it
Did you spend hours obsessing over exactly which items would go into exactly which drawers before you built the cabinets or did you just build em and fill em?
William W Powell Ain’t nobody got time for that. Build and fill. 😊