The Revo is truly a revolution in belay devices! IF they find out a way to get the weight of the Revo down, maybe in the Revo 2, you could use it in ANY climbing circumstance.
yep, except if you want to go down or up a rope, or if you're using 2 ropes.... it's probably a good device but for a very limited application finally : top roping at your local gym
It's slightly better than a grigri in a way that it is now both right and left handed and doesn't jam the rope while feeding, but does exactly the same. Can't belay 2 ropes or rappel down on 2 ropes, not for belaying a second, so it's quite limited.
Just bought a GriGri 2 and when I saw this video I was like oh shit am I going to have to return it. Then I watched the video and was all like nahhh. Like others before me have already said The Wild Country device seems like the most innovative/simplest device to use.
I'm sorry, but if you think the Grigri+ seems sophisticated, you should maybe think about how serious you are about belaying. If you can use a regular Grigri, you can use the Plus as well.
I'll go with anything but a right-handed-only grigri, I'll go with anything but a rope-flattening grigri, I'll go with anything but a grigri that jams the rope when feeding a lead climber. Top rope??? Grigri does the job ok.
Last year alone I saw 2 accidents with a GriGri. Its alaways because people cannot see what happens inside and therefor nether know what they actually do. The best device is Mammuts smart
My personal summary: Black Diamond copies the Jul2 and adds a grip. Edelrid copies their Jul2 and makes it a double-tuber, but without the full capabilities of the megajul (therefore quite pointless). Petzl just adds a switch and some gimmicks to the old grigri without real innovation. Wild country are the only ones bringing a really new device to the market. The first assisted breaking device that uses the system of a centrifugal break, even locking completely. In contrary to the grigris, there is no fiddling around with the device. Everything is operated while keeping the hand on the breaking rope. Seems like the best belay device for gym climbing in 2017.
i had the Wild Country in my hand and its really to big an heavy for me. The GriGri is sooo nice to use and they added some new features. Why everything hast to be "all new"?
Everything doesn't have to be "new" But, the GriGri2 had some problems.. You can't just hand it to someone and tell them to belay you. The GriGri requires watching a video or taking a class or at least being shown in depth how to use it. Mega Jul is kind of the same, very safe and versatile but kinda complicated. The Revo is super innovative and extremely simple while being the safest device out there. It might be heavy but for single pitching it is super worth the weight! Petzl and BD are showing a lack of innovation in the belay department. BD copied Edelrid and Petzl just made their GriGri more complicated. They did make effective devices but I would have also liked to see more innovation and some real advancement. The belay device is the most dangerous link in the climbers belay chain. I hope the Revo catches on and does very well. And I hope that Wild Country can get the weight down in the future!
A shoe round-up is definitely on the list--and there's even more new shoes than last year! But it's comments like these that help move it higher on the list :)
I (Alex) like the GriGri+; it looks pretty solid, but I wouldn't buy if I already had a normal GriGri. I'm not very much into the Wild Country Revo since you only need the hold on to the rope, wich is nice actually. But I'm using a Mammut Smart and meanwhile I'm so much used to use the device for belaying and feeding rope... could dance Salsa with it 😎 Nice review of the new devices though 👍
No harm in asking, that's why we're all here, to learn something new. The Petzl ID is basically an oversized gri gri. It is used more for rescuing or other rope work related jobs. It has the same panic mechanism but is rated for a 2 person load.
Ah! We're definitely not as familiar with the rescue side of gear, so I asked Petzl. They said: The GG+ is a belay and descent device. The I'D S is a descent device. Belaying with the I'D S is not an approved use for this device. The I'D S does allow you to install the rope without ever taking the device off the harness and carabiner. The I'D S has multiple handle positions that provide different functionality, one of those being a locking position where it locks the device on the rope, allowing you to go hands free. I believe that the button on the handle of the I'D S allows you to bypass the anti-panic when needed.
Personalmente el GRI GRI es el sistema de aseguracion que más utilizó, es cómodo y que tenga un freno automático tranquiliza mucho tanto al escalar y al asegurar. Todas las versiones las encontré buenas, salvo por la última, la que incluye el “sistema de frenado antipático” que rompe las pelotas cuando estás asegurando, sin poder bajar a la persona sin que se frene de repente. :0
Pros: weight (lightest mechanical brake assist), price (cheaper than most competitors), no plastic bits (less wearing), size (it's small!). Cons: When using fat ropes the device needs to be basically completely open to lower a climber. It doesn't collect rope super efficiently when used off the anchor in a multi-pitch situation. -- I found it's really smooth to take in slack and it seems to catch a fall the same way a GriGri does (literally in the camming mechanism and also in the user experience). Everything happens pretty quick and a dynamic belying skill is helpful. I like how lightweight the whole setup is when used with a small offset D locker. -- Overall, for the same price, I'd be more tempted to buy the Trango Vergo.
yeah I sort of feel safer with less moving parts involved. and I am too, a cheap bastard ;) and I just tried the GriGri during a course and thats it with my experience with anything other then my ATC.
Since the Vergo came out in 2016, we didn't want to include it in this 2017 round-up. We made a completely separate Trango Vergo video and you can view it here: th-cam.com/video/E65mEQ7KqPw/w-d-xo.html
Who cares about weight for a Grigri? IMO it is only good for single pitch sport climb. If you want minimal weight use the HMS. Maybe this Grigri is finally usefull for leading, (IMO the 1 and 2 are only good for toproping, specially concidering different rope diameters).
Finally someone that makes sense of how limited the grigri is! Too pricey for what it can do. I'll go with a smart alpine or mega jul over that lump of iron.
What's the difference between this and the Mammut Smart? I have that one and have no trouble using it, but everyone else seems to struggle with it at first. Is this one smoother?
Hey Judy, If you're asking how the BD ATC Pilot differs from the Mammut Smart, the quick answer is: There is minimal difference in concept, this is just BD's version. We haven't yet done a thorough test with the ATC Pilot (the release has been delayed until Spring '18), so we can't comment on how it performs compared to the Smart. But, if you're happy with the Smart that you already have we see no reason to switch to any other device, unless it offers additional functionality over the Smart, which the ATC Pilot does not. We'll try to remember to update this comment once we've tested the ATC Pilot for smoothness :)
Do consider the smart alpine. It is more rope-friendly to clean your routes by rappeling down on both sides of the rope, and you can do that with the smart alpine. I just ordered mine on amazon.
looking for something for solo route setting and stuff like that. Any devices you know of other than the Grivel A&D that will let me do both climbing and rappelling solo on one device?
Gear wise, we're not aware of any other ascenders that capture rope and have an integrated belay plate. And climbing wise, we're not confident enough to recommend solutions that are not endorsed by the manufacturers. But maybe/hopefully other folks will want to tune in with a reply!
This video features all the belay devices we saw at the US trade show. If you want to see our opinion of the most innovative climbing gear coming out in 2017 (including carabiners, shoes, and slings), check out our blog post: blog.weighmyrack.com/the-8-most-innovative-climbing-products-coming-in-2017/
It certainly can feel that way! The good news is, there is a fairly wide variance in prices, from about $10-$200. Coincidentally, this video showcases some of the most expensive belay devices. If you're looking for less expensive alternatives, check out weighmyrack.com/belay and you can sort by price, and when you click into products you can also see if they're on sale. At the moment, there also some big holiday sales (25% off). You can also see all the belay devices on sale at: blog.weighmyrack.com/the-best-deals-and-sales-on-belay-devices/
I don't think I would let anyone belay me with any of these devices, except maybe the wild country one. But why bother with any of them, just learn to belay with a standard device.
Grigri's and some of the other devices are extremely useful and very safe compared to ATC'S. If anything happens to your Belayer whilst the climber on the wall i.e. it could be fatal with an ATC. If you use full or a semi auto locking device the chances of an accident are minimised under these circumstances.
My humble opinion "ATC Pilot" = "Ergo" of Salewa , bad design, not very ergonomic when you want to give slack with the thumb, and I think is very easy to begginer make a wrong hanging grabbing all the body of the belay device when give slack, so it can take to an accident. Is FAAAAARRR better the "Smart" from Mammut, my actual favorite device for sport climbing. Edelrid Megajul, I have the older one and I like, but is better the Smart too. If you want to go trad, use a "reverso" or similar, I like the "Pivot" from DMM. "Grigri+", good improve for major useful life of nonsense grigri2 "Revo" its possible a very good device, I don't like mechanical parts, but I have to try this belay to make a guessed right opinion I had liked seeing the "Vergo" from Trango, I have big expectations in him Regards
I'm looking at the GriGri+ to replace my Grillion. It's basically a much smaller ID without the safety cam to make sure you put the rope in properly. Can't say much about it recreationally though, not my market.
You're right rainer zufall, the Mega Jul Sport isn't revolutionary when compared to the original Mega Jul. Instead it fills a hole in Edelrid's line of belay devices. With the Mega Jul Sport, Edelrid is responding to feedback from users saying that the Mega Jul's belay/lowering action wasn't smooth enough to use during single pitch cragging. Edelrid wanted to incorporate the smooth handling of the Jul² single rope device into a double tuber. There is a large (and growing) number of climbers who primarily climb at the gym and at single-pitch crags. For these climbers, double strand tubers without guide mode like the Black DIamond ATC-XP, Petzl Verso, and Edelrid Mega Jul Sport, are ideal belay devices that are stripped of unnecessary [potentially confusing] features. This Sport version certainly won't replace the original Mega Jul for more experienced multi-pitch climbers. But for those wanting a device for cragging/gym climbing, the Sport offers better handling than the Mega Jul.
bah, useless all of them. Megajul Sport is missing guide mode, BD Pilot is useless for multipitch and rappelling, GriGri+ is more expensive change on an already pricey device, and in a surprise twist the Wild Country Revo looks pretty cool except for being only single strand, so it's kinda useless for multipitch as well.
NoMotif I agree, (mostly). I am annoyed from all these fancy belaying devices and have spend already to much money on these devices and still use the simple ATC Guide and the HMS. What I would like to see is a longer lasting Tuber with an carabiner, every 2 years I have to buy a new one due to he wear.
Good question Chretze, the CT Click Up came out a few years ago, and the CT Click Up + is coming in 2018 -- we have footage of it and it will be in our 2018 belay device round up (stay tuned!). It's kind of a coincidence that 2/4 of these devices are delayed (Revo and Pilot), but both of them are supposed to be out before the end of 2017!
The Wild Country Revo looks amazing can't wait to get my hands on one, truly revolutionary!
Nice one Wild Country, that genuinely looks like a device I'd like to buy.
The Revo is great. We use it for all sportclimbing where the belayer can stay at the ground. It´s super comfortable and super safe.
The Revo is truly a revolution in belay devices!
IF they find out a way to get the weight of the Revo down, maybe in the Revo 2, you could use it in ANY climbing circumstance.
yes its way too heavy and big :(
yep, except if you want to go down or up a rope, or if you're using 2 ropes.... it's probably a good device but for a very limited application finally : top roping at your local gym
It's slightly better than a grigri in a way that it is now both right and left handed and doesn't jam the rope while feeding, but does exactly the same. Can't belay 2 ropes or rappel down on 2 ropes, not for belaying a second, so it's quite limited.
Just bought a GriGri 2 and when I saw this video I was like oh shit am I going to have to return it. Then I watched the video and was all like nahhh.
Like others before me have already said The Wild Country device seems like the most innovative/simplest device to use.
While I really like the device, I must say as a flight enthusiast; "ATC Pilot" is a trainwreck of a name.
Kinda like Black Diamond with their carabiners. They use a lot of random physics terms that make no sense in the context they're used in.
Still will go with the GriGri2 I think :P The GriGri+ seems so sophisticated!
I'm sorry, but if you think the Grigri+ seems sophisticated, you should maybe think about how serious you are about belaying. If you can use a regular Grigri, you can use the Plus as well.
I'll go with anything but a right-handed-only grigri, I'll go with anything but a rope-flattening grigri, I'll go with anything but a grigri that jams the rope when feeding a lead climber. Top rope??? Grigri does the job ok.
Last year alone I saw 2 accidents with a GriGri. Its alaways because people cannot see what happens inside and therefor nether know what they actually do. The best device is Mammuts smart
My personal summary:
Black Diamond copies the Jul2 and adds a grip.
Edelrid copies their Jul2 and makes it a double-tuber, but without the full capabilities of the megajul (therefore quite pointless).
Petzl just adds a switch and some gimmicks to the old grigri without real innovation.
Wild country are the only ones bringing a really new device to the market. The first assisted breaking device that uses the system of a centrifugal break, even locking completely. In contrary to the grigris, there is no fiddling around with the device. Everything is operated while keeping the hand on the breaking rope. Seems like the best belay device for gym climbing in 2017.
Yeah they all are basically showing how much they ran out of ideas but I mean how can you really innovate more on a belay device?
Well, Wild Country did ^^
i had the Wild Country in my hand and its really to big an heavy for me.
The GriGri is sooo nice to use and they added some new features. Why everything hast to be "all new"?
Everything doesn't have to be "new" But, the GriGri2 had some problems.. You can't just hand it to someone and tell them to belay you. The GriGri requires watching a video or taking a class or at least being shown in depth how to use it. Mega Jul is kind of the same, very safe and versatile but kinda complicated. The Revo is super innovative and extremely simple while being the safest device out there. It might be heavy but for single pitching it is super worth the weight! Petzl and BD are showing a lack of innovation in the belay department. BD copied Edelrid and Petzl just made their GriGri more complicated. They did make effective devices but I would have also liked to see more innovation and some real advancement. The belay device is the most dangerous link in the climbers belay chain. I hope the Revo catches on and does very well. And I hope that Wild Country can get the weight down in the future!
The Black Diamond is a copy of the old Wild Country SRC (Single Rope Controller) with more glitz.
Awesome With the revo I could get my drunk friends who just want to sit around to belay me !
the new Revo is definitely something on my gear list in the future
Please make a video for climbing shoes like you did last year!
A shoe round-up is definitely on the list--and there's even more new shoes than last year! But it's comments like these that help move it higher on the list :)
For future reference, our 2017 shoe video can be found here: th-cam.com/video/H4E5LAuNJXE/w-d-xo.html
try the revo, I don't use a grigri2 any more.
I (Alex) like the GriGri+; it looks pretty solid, but I wouldn't buy if I already had a normal GriGri. I'm not very much into the Wild Country Revo since you only need the hold on to the rope, wich is nice actually. But I'm using a Mammut Smart and meanwhile I'm so much used to use the device for belaying and feeding rope... could dance Salsa with it 😎 Nice review of the new devices though 👍
How similar is the black diamond to the mammut smart system?
Black Diamond's ATC Pilot will function very similarly to the Mammut Smart, Edelrid Jul2 and Salewa Ergo.
I feel that the new grigri have to much moving parts to feel safe
So what's the difference between the function of the gri gri plus and an ID? Besides the obvious size and weight? It seems to work the same way?
Kind of embarrassed to ask, but what does "ID" reference?
No harm in asking, that's why we're all here, to learn something new.
The Petzl ID is basically an oversized gri gri. It is used more for rescuing or other rope work related jobs. It has the same panic mechanism but is rated for a 2 person load.
Ah! We're definitely not as familiar with the rescue side of gear, so I asked Petzl. They said:
The GG+ is a belay and descent device.
The I'D S is a descent device.
Belaying with the I'D S is not an approved use for this device.
The I'D S does allow you to install the rope without ever taking the device off the harness and carabiner.
The I'D S has multiple handle positions that provide different functionality, one of those being a locking position where it locks the device on the rope, allowing you to go hands free.
I believe that the button on the handle of the I'D S allows you to bypass the anti-panic when needed.
WeighMyRack would you look at that, we both got smarter today! :)
Always glad to help, and learn more ourselves :)
Personalmente el GRI GRI es el sistema de aseguracion que más utilizó, es cómodo y que tenga un freno automático tranquiliza mucho tanto al escalar y al asegurar. Todas las versiones las encontré buenas, salvo por la última, la que incluye el “sistema de frenado antipático” que rompe las pelotas cuando estás asegurando, sin poder bajar a la persona sin que se frene de repente. :0
whats your opinion on the mad rock lifegaurd?
Pros: weight (lightest mechanical brake assist), price (cheaper than most competitors), no plastic bits (less wearing), size (it's small!).
Cons: When using fat ropes the device needs to be basically completely open to lower a climber. It doesn't collect rope super efficiently when used off the anchor in a multi-pitch situation.
--
I found it's really smooth to take in slack and it seems to catch a fall the same way a GriGri does (literally in the camming mechanism and also in the user experience). Everything happens pretty quick and a dynamic belying skill is helpful. I like how lightweight the whole setup is when used with a small offset D locker.
--
Overall, for the same price, I'd be more tempted to buy the Trango Vergo.
Nothing is better than my good old black diamond ATC
I myself am a cheap bastard, too. :p
yeah I sort of feel safer with less moving parts involved. and I am too, a cheap bastard ;) and I just tried the GriGri during a course and thats it with my experience with anything other then my ATC.
No, Cinch Vergo?
Since the Vergo came out in 2016, we didn't want to include it in this 2017 round-up. We made a completely separate Trango Vergo video and you can view it here: th-cam.com/video/E65mEQ7KqPw/w-d-xo.html
It looks like Edelrid is going farming with a male model.
Anyone catch the weight of the GriGri+??
200 grams (30g more than the GriGri 2)
Who cares about weight for a Grigri? IMO it is only good for single pitch sport climb. If you want minimal weight use the HMS. Maybe this Grigri is finally usefull for leading, (IMO the 1 and 2 are only good for toproping, specially concidering different rope diameters).
Finally someone that makes sense of how limited the grigri is! Too pricey for what it can do. I'll go with a smart alpine or mega jul over that lump of iron.
What's the difference between this and the Mammut Smart? I have that one and have no trouble using it, but everyone else seems to struggle with it at first. Is this one smoother?
Hey Judy, If you're asking how the BD ATC Pilot differs from the Mammut Smart, the quick answer is: There is minimal difference in concept, this is just BD's version. We haven't yet done a thorough test with the ATC Pilot (the release has been delayed until Spring '18), so we can't comment on how it performs compared to the Smart. But, if you're happy with the Smart that you already have we see no reason to switch to any other device, unless it offers additional functionality over the Smart, which the ATC Pilot does not. We'll try to remember to update this comment once we've tested the ATC Pilot for smoothness :)
Do consider the smart alpine. It is more rope-friendly to clean your routes by rappeling down on both sides of the rope, and you can do that with the smart alpine. I just ordered mine on amazon.
looking for something for solo route setting and stuff like that. Any devices you know of other than the Grivel A&D that will let me do both climbing and rappelling solo on one device?
Gear wise, we're not aware of any other ascenders that capture rope and have an integrated belay plate.
And climbing wise, we're not confident enough to recommend solutions that are not endorsed by the manufacturers. But maybe/hopefully other folks will want to tune in with a reply!
turdl38 I've used a gri gri for this and it works but is a pain
Man, these things look so complicated! What happened to keep it simple?
This video features all the belay devices we saw at the US trade show. If you want to see our opinion of the most innovative climbing gear coming out in 2017 (including carabiners, shoes, and slings), check out our blog post: blog.weighmyrack.com/the-8-most-innovative-climbing-products-coming-in-2017/
WeighMyRack
Gri gri 2 looks smart 's ! But ... Wide country revo are pro ! Because.... Pro
Wow climbing gear is so expensive.
It certainly can feel that way! The good news is, there is a fairly wide variance in prices, from about $10-$200. Coincidentally, this video showcases some of the most expensive belay devices. If you're looking for less expensive alternatives, check out weighmyrack.com/belay and you can sort by price, and when you click into products you can also see if they're on sale. At the moment, there also some big holiday sales (25% off). You can also see all the belay devices on sale at: blog.weighmyrack.com/the-best-deals-and-sales-on-belay-devices/
I don't think I would let anyone belay me with any of these devices, except maybe the wild country one.
But why bother with any of them, just learn to belay with a standard device.
Grigri's and some of the other devices are extremely useful and very safe compared to ATC'S. If
anything happens to your Belayer whilst the climber on the wall i.e. it could be fatal with an ATC.
If you use full or a semi auto locking device the chances of an accident are minimised under these
circumstances.
Do not forget the "Gnome" by ICE ROCK. All I can say is "nerdgasm"
Hah! Good call. Since Ice Rock doesn't attend the US Trade show we missed them, but hopefully we'll catch them at the European show this year!
For me the edelrid megajul is the best belay device ...
Until it breaks...
My humble opinion
"ATC Pilot" = "Ergo" of Salewa , bad design, not very ergonomic when you want to give slack with the thumb, and I think is very easy to begginer make a wrong hanging grabbing all the body of the belay device when give slack, so it can take to an accident. Is FAAAAARRR better the "Smart" from Mammut, my actual favorite device for sport climbing.
Edelrid Megajul, I have the older one and I like, but is better the Smart too. If you want to go trad, use a "reverso" or similar, I like the "Pivot" from DMM.
"Grigri+", good improve for major useful life of nonsense grigri2
"Revo" its possible a very good device, I don't like mechanical parts, but I have to try this belay to make a guessed right opinion
I had liked seeing the "Vergo" from Trango, I have big expectations in him
Regards
The GriGri+ really seems unnecessary to me.
I'm looking at the GriGri+ to replace my Grillion. It's basically a much smaller ID without the safety cam to make sure you put the rope in properly. Can't say much about it recreationally though, not my market.
system created 2013 by edelrid, called >>Maga Jule
You're right rainer zufall, the Mega Jul Sport isn't revolutionary when compared to the original Mega Jul. Instead it fills a hole in Edelrid's line of belay devices. With the Mega Jul Sport, Edelrid is responding to feedback from users saying that the Mega Jul's belay/lowering action wasn't smooth enough to use during single pitch cragging. Edelrid wanted to incorporate the smooth handling of the Jul² single rope device into a double tuber.
There is a large (and growing) number of climbers who primarily climb at the gym and at single-pitch crags. For these climbers, double strand tubers without guide mode like the Black DIamond ATC-XP, Petzl Verso, and Edelrid Mega Jul Sport, are ideal belay devices that are stripped of unnecessary [potentially confusing] features.
This Sport version certainly won't replace the original Mega Jul for more experienced multi-pitch climbers. But for those wanting a device for cragging/gym climbing, the Sport offers better handling than the Mega Jul.
start video at 1:25 to skip black diamond
LOL
bah, useless all of them. Megajul Sport is missing guide mode, BD Pilot is useless for multipitch and rappelling, GriGri+ is more expensive change on an already pricey device, and in a surprise twist the Wild Country Revo looks pretty cool except for being only single strand, so it's kinda useless for multipitch as well.
So any device that doesn't do everything is useless?
I think your comment is more useless.
yep useless, cuz u cant fly to space with them :(
NoMotif I agree, (mostly). I am annoyed from all these fancy belaying devices and have spend already to much money on these devices and still use the simple ATC Guide and the HMS. What I would like to see is a longer lasting Tuber with an carabiner, every 2 years I have to buy a new one due to he wear.
Steel carabiner and megajul, both being steel will never wear out.
The first thing is nothing else than a Smart.
No Climbing Technology ClickUp?
Good question Chretze, the CT Click Up came out a few years ago, and the CT Click Up + is coming in 2018 -- we have footage of it and it will be in our 2018 belay device round up (stay tuned!).
It's kind of a coincidence that 2/4 of these devices are delayed (Revo and Pilot), but both of them are supposed to be out before the end of 2017!
😅😂😅😂😅I came from the future to say that this breaker system could make this system with strong material for durability in use 👈😎