First remove the negative pole, then the positive. First mount the positive and then the negative. This is to be sure that if you use a non insolated wrench you can not short the positive pole to the chassis by accident. You used an isolated socket so there is no risk in your case but I do not think many people have those. Be extra careful if the battery was charging just before you remove it. There is often explosive gas around it. A spark can be enought to let the battery explode. I has seen a mechanic blow up a battery in his face and all over my gear when he wanted to replace the battery of my motorbike. I just wanted to tell him not to start with the plus pole when he touched the frame with the wrench while loosing the plus pole bolt and the spark caused the battery to explode .
Should you happen to have an oldie with a positive ground electric system, the order is the reverse though. The general idea is to 1st remove/last connect the grounded terminal, no matter positive or negative.
Good analysis! The internal resistance of the battery is caused by Sulfation plus the resistance of the Lead and other metals. The higher the sulfation, the higher the internal resistance.
Simple test: keep the multimeter connected to the battery and check if the voltage sags close to 10V when starting the engine. If close or below 10V, the internal resistance has become too high, the battery isnt healthy anymore, better to replace with new one and keep old one for house projects.
My car's battery is exactly like your old one, the open circuit voltage is even lower 12.1V. Surprisingly, it is like this since 7 years ago and it still works just fine! It is the original battery. If I replaced the battery 7 years ago, for sure the new one was already dead by now.
Awesome video thank you for going into so much detail. 👏 Very informative and enjoyable. Would you consider doing a video on the Noco genius 10 battery charger and maintainer. Would love to see you do a tear down on that and share your thoughts. 😊 with me now doing shorter journeys and not using the car as much cost of living and all that. I’ve bought one in the hope of extending the life of my 12v AGM battery
Hello , I purchased a BT200 Topdon battery tester which seems to be a good unit for the price point . I run an ATV/UTV service business and batteries are all ways an issue but this unit does not list amp hour rated batteries which are the common rating system on ATV's . Some larger machines do use CCA . I read somewhere that AH x 7.2 = CCA but was wondering if this conversion would be somewhat accurate for this tester ???
I recently looked into measuring iR with an LCR meter. You only need to put some caps in series to block the DC voltage. You could try that in an upcoming video :3
Nice video. Only suggestion is to use AC coupling on your pico scope for the voltage (and a much more sensitive scale). Then you could do delta V / delta I to get the internal resistance.
Nice little tester, probably better suited to smaller capacity batteries with the 1A loading, but perfect for gel and other small cell types, rather than large automotive batteries. Would be a great way to test all those small lead acid batteries, though I simply made a load tester, using some nichrome foil from a defunct heater, and a voltmeter to measure across it. Around 5A of current draw, which for most SLA batteries is a good indicator of internal resistance, and a cheap DVM module to measure the battery voltage. No 4 wire measurement, I just recycled the cables off a defunct jump pack instead, as they are real copper wire, and semi decent clamps, and certainly capable of carrying 5A with almost no voltage drop. Thicker cables on the Topdon unit would definitely have improved things, along with a slightly higher test current for vehicle battery use.
I’m surprised that they get any idea of cold cranking amps from just placing a 10ohm load? When you look at the old battery testers that were used by garages they almost shorted out the battery, pulling somewhere close to 100A or so. Nice big crock clips but looking inside not very thick wiring. It’s a right old pain in the butt that nowadays you can’t even change a battery without having to reprogram the car. So far my Volvo has required a dealer to do the programming as the cheap testers can’t seem to do it, or so I’ve been told.
We used those carbon pile testers for many years. They were effective but potentially damaging to the battery. Battery quality and condition is almost a safety concern in the world of auto-start/stop and collision avoidance in cars such as your Volvo. Makes sense that some sort of serialization and BMS are part of a battery install.
@@radman999 I agree but i just hate to have to pay on top of buying the battery just to have them bolt it down and program the EMS. Having spent most of my driving life just going down to the car shop buying one and bolting the thing next to the engine and jobs done.
@@TheEmbeddedHobbyist Makes sense. There are simpler cars to own if you want to just get from A to B though, maybe something from the 2000s. Plus the subscription for the software costs the dealer upwards of $20,000 per year (for Volvo VIDA). There has to be some ROI on that and the labor time.
I still have a big wire wound load tester in the shed from the 1950s it gets red hot and smokes a lot. Quite exciting with sparks! The battery tester looks good. Did the battery indicator lamp on the battery show anything
First remove the negative pole, then the positive. First mount the positive and then the negative. This is to be sure that if you use a non insolated wrench you can not short the positive pole to the chassis by accident. You used an isolated socket so there is no risk in your case but I do not think many people have those.
Be extra careful if the battery was charging just before you remove it. There is often explosive gas around it. A spark can be enought to let the battery explode. I has seen a mechanic blow up a battery in his face and all over my gear when he wanted to replace the battery of my motorbike. I just wanted to tell him not to start with the plus pole when he touched the frame with the wrench while loosing the plus pole bolt and the spark caused the battery to explode .
Should you happen to have an oldie with a positive ground electric system, the order is the reverse though.
The general idea is to 1st remove/last connect the grounded terminal, no matter positive or negative.
Good analysis! The internal resistance of the battery is caused by Sulfation plus the resistance of the Lead and other metals. The higher the sulfation, the higher the internal resistance.
Simple test: keep the multimeter connected to the battery and check if the voltage sags close to 10V when starting the engine. If close or below 10V, the internal resistance has become too high, the battery isnt healthy anymore, better to replace with new one and keep old one for house projects.
impossible to get same reports
My car's battery is exactly like your old one, the open circuit voltage is even lower 12.1V. Surprisingly, it is like this since 7 years ago and it still works just fine! It is the original battery. If I replaced the battery 7 years ago, for sure the new one was already dead by now.
I would probably keep one of those power banks that can start your car in the glove box for when it finally dies.
Is there any way to reduce the internal resistance of a flooded lead acid battery?
Awesome video thank you for going into so much detail. 👏 Very informative and enjoyable. Would you consider doing a video on the Noco genius 10 battery charger and maintainer. Would love to see you do a tear down on that and share your thoughts. 😊 with me now doing shorter journeys and not using the car as much cost of living and all that. I’ve bought one in the hope of extending the life of my 12v AGM battery
Hello , I purchased a BT200 Topdon battery tester which seems to be a good unit for the price point . I run an ATV/UTV service business and batteries are all ways an issue but this unit does not list amp hour rated batteries which are the common rating system on ATV's . Some larger machines do use CCA . I read somewhere that AH x 7.2 = CCA but was wondering if this conversion would be somewhat accurate for this tester ???
I recently looked into measuring iR with an LCR meter. You only need to put some caps in series to block the DC voltage. You could try that in an upcoming video :3
Interesting. Thanks for sharing Steve.
Nice video. Only suggestion is to use AC coupling on your pico scope for the voltage (and a much more sensitive scale). Then you could do delta V / delta I to get the internal resistance.
Nice little tester, probably better suited to smaller capacity batteries with the 1A loading, but perfect for gel and other small cell types, rather than large automotive batteries. Would be a great way to test all those small lead acid batteries, though I simply made a load tester, using some nichrome foil from a defunct heater, and a voltmeter to measure across it. Around 5A of current draw, which for most SLA batteries is a good indicator of internal resistance, and a cheap DVM module to measure the battery voltage. No 4 wire measurement, I just recycled the cables off a defunct jump pack instead, as they are real copper wire, and semi decent clamps, and certainly capable of carrying 5A with almost no voltage drop. Thicker cables on the Topdon unit would definitely have improved things, along with a slightly higher test current for vehicle battery use.
I’m surprised that they get any idea of cold cranking amps from just placing a 10ohm load?
When you look at the old battery testers that were used by garages they almost shorted out the battery, pulling somewhere close to 100A or so.
Nice big crock clips but looking inside not very thick wiring. It’s a right old pain in the butt that nowadays you can’t even change a battery without having to reprogram the car. So far my Volvo has required a dealer to do the programming as the cheap testers can’t seem to do it, or so I’ve been told.
We used those carbon pile testers for many years. They were effective but potentially damaging to the battery. Battery quality and condition is almost a safety concern in the world of auto-start/stop and collision avoidance in cars such as your Volvo. Makes sense that some sort of serialization and BMS are part of a battery install.
@@radman999 I agree but i just hate to have to pay on top of buying the battery just to have them bolt it down and program the EMS. Having spent most of my driving life just going down to the car shop buying one and bolting the thing next to the engine and jobs done.
@@TheEmbeddedHobbyist Makes sense. There are simpler cars to own if you want to just get from A to B though, maybe something from the 2000s. Plus the subscription for the software costs the dealer upwards of $20,000 per year (for Volvo VIDA). There has to be some ROI on that and the labor time.
@@radman999 passing the rip off down the line lol
I still have a big wire wound load tester in the shed from the 1950s it gets red hot and smokes a lot. Quite exciting with sparks! The battery tester looks good. Did the battery indicator lamp on the battery show anything
I hope you suggest me better I trust only you
Whoes microscope good for ic work D75T AND MSO 300
4wire Calvin law's applied for internal resistance measurement
I only look at these why my car struggles and after looking at prices i figure better to just buy a new battery.
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