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I own an FM3a. Incredible camera! The shutter is quite loud to be honest, but sometimes that's a bonus. The sound can be really pleasing once you get used to it.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom I own two brand new Nikon FM3As, which I have never used. I bought them in 2005 when Nikon announced their intention to dump the FM line. I also bought seven Nikkor manual focusing lenses at that time. I paid in the low-to-mid $600 range for each camera back then. A couple of days ago, I purchased an unused mint condition Nikkor 50mm f/1.4 lens from Japan. I plan to use this equipment for street photography. Matt, I do have a question: How do you prevent your film from getting fogged by airport X-ray machines? 🤔
@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom I did that 25 years ago, and my 400 speed film got fogged! 🤯😡 There was a time when airports would hand check film. Now they usually won't. Back in the day, Morley Bear took 80 8x10 double-film holders (about 45 kilograms including packaging) loaded with Kodak Super-XX film to Spain and had no difficulties. Nowadays, I would not advise that enterprise. Domke makes the 711-15B Large Filmguard Bag, which I will try on my next trip to Europe in December. It's not completely X-ray proof, but it allegedly reduces X-ray exposure.
Finding this video sitting in India on a trip. I am looking to buy my first film camera and trying to decide on one of these which is how I found your video. Thank you for the wealth of information Matt. Your passion and enthusiasm is palpable. I have never been so excited for a camera purchase. First video i've watched from you, but i can promise it's not my last. Subscribed, I can't wait for the journey.
Thank you, very kind ..and it’s cool to think how far and wide this video reaches 😅. ..if you like Nikon perhaps check out my Voigtlander for Nikon videos. Great lenses!
12:05 I have FM2 with bulb synchro time 1/125. It means that this parameter changed from 1/125 by 1/200 to 1/250. My body was reviewed by Nikon service and they said that the real bulb synchro time is 1/250 ;-) And it works! FM3a has a hybrid shutter: if the battery is present and in good condition the shutter is controlled electronically, when the battery is exhausted or not present the shutter is controlled mechanically.
Thank you, and very cool about the 1/250 time. I recently got the FM3a as a "new" film camera to use when other cameras die (such as my favourite FE2!)
Pro tip: apart from the FM3a the best of the lot could be the FA. It shares the same compact body, has various priority modes (not just aperture priority) and manual, max. shutter speed of 1/4000 sec., a titanium shutter, and was the first camera to introduce matrix metering.
"the FM3a the best of the lot" - "best of the lot could be the FA" - Sorry, but wrong on both counts. Far too complex as age sets in. - As a technician for photographic cameras, I get many requests to 'fix' malfunctioning FM3a & FA cameras. - The FE2, if folks can keep their fingers out of the thin titanium shutter blades, are EXTREMELY reliable ! - I own F3's, FM3a's FE2's, F2's, FA's among many others (now that I'm older, they're bargains to collect). My favorite Nikon film camera is the FE2...
@@y2ktube Thanks for you OPINION. I have owned an FA and an FE2 and while I get equally good results with both of them I personally prefer the FA. Your point about aging cameras is well taken, but all things being equal that wasn't part of my consideration. I simply prefer the FA a little bit over the FE2, but one can't go wrong with a functioning copy of either model.
I have the FE2 and FA . The bit I hate about the FA is there is no exposure lock. Both are superb cameras . The FA takes care of offcentre subjects with its matrix metering. Yes matrix metering.
Had the FE since the mid 90s, and im still in love with the green and black needle to know how off i am when i do lock exposure and rearrange my composition. Very swift to handle, without needing to fiddle for minutes :)
To answer your question about method of focusing...it depends upon what composition I'm looking for, but if I'm doing street photography or expect to have to rapidly compose a shot so as not to miss the moment, I'll use aperture priority mode and set my aperture to f8...it's got a very wide depth of field range (especially when using wide angle lenses) and exposure latitude in regard to acceptable shutter speeds. The wide depth of field allows me to quickly "rough focus" using the background matte portion of the focusing screen, with good confidence the subject will be in sharp focus, and with confidence the shutter speed will be high enough to prevent blurring. My favorite for all around shooting is either my FA (great shutter release and versatility), or my F3P (built like a tank,) but I recently went hiking and ran a couple rolls through my FM2 with great results. Regarding electronic shutters over mechanical shutters, the original argument came from pros that didn't trust the reliability of electronic shutters and lamented about the "disastrous" consequences of batteries going dead in the field...it was all hogwash. How much space/weight in your kit does a fresh set of batteries require to protect against that? Mechanical shutters also need to be speed calibrated regularly to remain accurate (generally speaking) as compared to electronic shutters. As far a the batteries themselves, don''t use the alkaline LR44 if you can instead find silver oxide SR44 batteries. They last (significantly) longer than alkalines, maintain their terminal voltage constant longer, and don't ever leak into your battery compartment and corrode your battery terminals.
Back in the day I've been shooting FM2 for years; in my opinion, that's one of the best fully mechanical cameras ever made, period. And as idiot as I am, I sold it, course I needed money for the autofocus camera for work. Just so you know, there was two additional variants of FM2: in the early 90's Nikon had put the shutter of the F90 inside, I guess due to cost cuttings. No additional functions where added, and you can simply recognise it since it lacks typical honeycomb pattern on the shutter. Few months or a year later that same variant was also made in titanium, hence the name FM2/t.
22:50 - well, it's tough question. We have to rely on perfect eyesight. For perfect focus you perform triple focus/recompose dance and this dance is slow. First, you focus using split screen, then you recompose and rack focus ring back and forth, relying on what you're seeing on the focusing screen. Then you return to the split screen in the center to check if you're mistaken and the last time you recompose to double-check the focus and then fire the shutter. The bad thing about this method is that you have to know the shape of the field curvature of the lens you're using and these never come alongside MTF charts in user manuals. It's an invaluable information, IMO, but it's omitted in the manual. Some lenses have complex and weird shapes to their field curvatures, especially AF Nikkor 28-70 mm f3.5-4.5, which at 28 mm set at infinity at f/7.1 or f/8 has sharp center, unsharp round zone near the center, then sharp zone again and unsharp circle around it one more time, sharp left and right far sides and unsharp far corners (diagonal). It's weird. The wavy shape of the image field makes this lens unusable for landscapes or cityscapes, however the lens is sharp and nice at other settings. Hasselblads from H3 onwards have built-in AF correction for recomposing - it is called "True Focus". The lens is basically sending the information to the camera body on its angle of inclination at the set distance to the object and the camera makes the correction after setting composition you're after. In mirrorless, where everything is AF point, you don't need that at all. So, Matt... If you're willing to use one camera (FE or FM), it is good a idea to buy B-type focusing screen to perform focus by eye. But there's better solution. Sell all these cameras and buy F2AS and install the radical H-type screen (whole image field is covered in pyramids) - H3 to be precise, but it has a drawback of not giving you any information on DoF. Are you okay with losing DoF preview? This is the most accurate solution for Nikon film cameras and is wondrous for shooting in low light.
Thanks, excellent detail thank you! Yes I know of Hasselblad True Focus... personal I use edge of focus screen now. If not I would have a 4-focus dance as the model may not be standing completely still so I have to focus shoot fast. I am looking to maybe get the K3 screen. I need (must have) split prism for everything over 1 meter. On Hasselblad 500s I have 1 screen for up close (plain acute-matte d) and 1 split prism for more rare distant shots. I like the size and weight of these Nikon F cameras more than the "better" F2/F3 etc.
I loved seeing your perspective on this. Over the years, I've had an FM (I dropped it and damaged it beyond repair), then FM2, then FE2, then FM3a. Mercifully, when I bought these, the prices were much lower than what you described the current situation is.
I'm coming along later to the game (3 years!) and just checked prices on the FM3A. They're running in the $600US range. That is an interesting body because of the combination of features of the FE2 and FM2n.
The Nikon FE was my first camera when i was 22 years old, paired with the MD-12 motordrive and a bunch of good lenses. I used it for my first weddings and sports event. It never failed me whatsoever,. I bought a Hasselblad 500CM when i was more serious about better images for weddings and portrait. Unfortunately i sold all my stuff.when weddings were less a trend and digital photography took a large place. Worst move of my life lol. Just bought a few month ago a Nikon F2 and a FE with MD-12 because i like the grip it add and the fact that you dont need to bother with the winding knob open. You just press the release button half and the metering goes on then press it full and take the photo and advance the film. What i like is that i can fit all my lenses ai and non ai on these 2 cameras. plus my Nikon D7000 and D7200.. Nice comparison!!.
April of 2022 FM3A are going for $1000 on Ebay. My very first camera was an FM. I have owned an FE2 and I still own an FM3A. I also own an F4 and a Bronica SQ-A. I also have several DSLR's
Had an FE for decades, it still shoots nicely. For auto focus i use an F90. and for digital a D810. For rough conditions i use a nikonos 5 and an olympus TG6. The current nikon waterproof offerings are not much snuff. I've often thought about getting an FM just to complete the set. As for focusing, i have no hard and fast rule. i used the normal screen, sometimes split, sometimes hex, sometimes ground glass outside. There is no one best way, so learn to use all ways and choose the one that suits you best for the situation. When i shoot large format i used a lupe on the ground glass. if you think focusing an FE is fun try a Nikonos.
The matrix metter wasn't ready in time for the FE-2, so they launched that camera with a center weight metter. Shortly after they introduced the FA at more expensive price, so they kept the FE-2 and to keep selling it well they changed the name FE-3 to FA. Another detail was that the FA was intended to compete with the longstanding Canon A-1, though Nikon probably didn't worry much about what Canon was doing in that time. In technology, the FA is by far the most advanced, though certainly not as robust as the FM series cameras. To keep the weight in check, Nikon also used carbon fiber top and bottom covers for the FA. Though, maybe the gold plated FA uses metal covers, I don't know. The Pentax MX is far superior to the FM. It has far bigger 0.95x prism, interchangeable focus screens, it has full stop and half stops LEDs, exposure can be seen much clearer than in the FE and maybe it can't be seen in the finder of the FM/FM-2, and it had motor drive, and 250 exposures cartridge options, it's smaller and around 20% lighter while sacrificing nothing in quality, and has very small and beautiful Pentax-M lenses, and it's lenses have SMC coating developed with assistance from Zeiss that gives better contrast. Not all the better MX features over the FM are much used, but some are, overall it's a much better experience. The FM-2 bought 1/4000s and flash synch 1/250s so it's not clear cut which one is better.
@@TheGreatLoco thank you! Really nice information. I think the FE2 is still my fav of the 4 I show here though I actually like the FG-20 for a super lightweight option. I just discovered Leica R cameras (see recent videos and the next one I will post). I will show Nikon vs Leica too and some thoughts.
If there is any reliable source for this story that AMP-was planned for the FE2 I would be interested to hear it. I doubt any exists. As FM2, FE2 and FA followed very close to each other and at the time the FA was seen as Nikon's version of the automatic SLR like Minolta's XD-7, Canon's A-1 Pentax' Super A which were highly successful. Nikon simply had to bring something extra because they were late to party and they added Automatic aperture with AIs-lenses (which was a much bigger change!) together with AMP-metering to their midrange lineup. In Germnay the three cameras were marketed together as "The Mechanic (FM2), the Electronic (FE2), the Computer (FA)". None of them was vere seen as some kind of stop-gap solution, in fact they were the most consistent lineup available at the time.
The FM was known as 'The Compact Nikon' on launch - the design remains a classic confirmed by Nikon attempting to incorporate 'echo's' into their latest APS C digital camera. And yes the earlier Nikkormat's weight a lot more and have a squared off design that handles less well. Enjoy your photography.
I am a Loyal Nikon DSLR user .....recently picked a Pentax ME.....this video is so good that it kind of made me realise that till I master the Pentax SLR ....I will Not pick a Nikon SLR.
I have FM,FE,FM2N,FE2 ... to be honest just be patient and check your local classifieds. The best one is the one you have on you, if you pay $50 for a camera and lens your more likely to carry it with you every where. I would be nervous bringing a FM3A to the beach just because of expense. One thing to mention too though is prices for Nikon glass have been going up and up. Makes it a little hard to recommend Nikon tbh. But my favorite is probably FE2 , 1000s shutter speed is not great for wide open in the day time. 4000 just leaves more options open.
Thanks, good to hear you use them all and enjoy the FE2 too. I've had all my Nikon glass quite a while as I shot digital Nikon (D800 etc). The 85/1.4D seems to have held it's value well. (More Nikon vids coming..as I decide what works for me!) ..hopefully another useful video in the pipeline, just waiting on a body to arrive.
Well, I'm not professional, just an enthusiast but i have the same problem when i practice with my DSLR with objects (toys, ornaments, etc. Not models 😞) and the answer to your question would be...don't panning the camera to recompose, you just make a travelling horizontal or lateral with your body or take a step to the side to recompose (trucking shot technique like a "moonrise kingdom" camp scene). With a Nikon SLR camera, as i read in a post, you can bend the film a little to match the curvature of the lens but I don't know if that works. I hope I have not misheard or misunderstood your question.
Thanks Roberto, no that’s great thank you. I tend to compose and focus after now with a SLR (and focus with edge of screen if needed). What you say makes sense so thanks.
I still "exercise" my Nikon FE2 and F3. The FE2 is wonderfully light yet rugged, although I slowly allowed the superb F3 to eclipse it. The F3 is smallish and one of the most reliable cameras ever made (imo), Its very long production run says a great deal about it.
I have an FM and FE, I bought 3 years ago. I also have an F3 I’ve had for 24 years. I love the F3 but I like the lighter weight of my FM,FE combo. I often go out with the two of them with different prime lenses mounted on each. I’d like to get an FE2 sometime but I got a really good price on my two earlier bodies and didn’t give up much on each vs the 2 versions. While I like to shoot aperture priority, I actually find myself preferring the FM slightly. I like the feel of the transport and sound of the mechanical shutter. As Matt pointed out, another advantage of the early FM,FE bodies as well as the F3 is you can use pre AI lenses which opens up more options when shopping the used lens market
Bought my first FM2 in 1990 and three more went through my hands over the years for reasons which summed up are the story of my life. But the camera I kept is the FE2. It is like the FM3a minus the Hype and inflated prices plus the "right" logo. I stay clear of the FE/FM as all of them I handled and owned since about 1995 had some kind of problem. If it has been serviced, it is probably ok but factor that in and their successors are still more refined on several accounts.
I’ve bought and used several FM2s, a couple of FEs and FE2s and FM3As (as well as a few Nikon F3s); and I still use and shoot with an FE2, FM3A and an F3. In my experience, especially if you tend to use them in ‘manual mode’, there’s not much between them (the F3 aside which was a professional model anyway): they all use the same 35mm film and all share basically the same lenses. For me personally though, I find the Nikon FE2 the most enjoyable to use (and fitted with an FM3a focusing screen it performs exactly the same as the FM3A … so long as the electronics and/or battery don’t die on you! My FE2 though, despite being roughly 40 years old is still working perfectly and going strong!
I started out with the FM2n and then the FE2, both with the added K2 screen. I liked them both, but preferred the feel of the FE2. At the time, I needed glasses... but didn't know it until years later. Didn't know about the diopters until much later. Mostly relied on the split screen, but did use the microprism band. Both have the MD-12 motor drive. The technology changed, family happened & stopped photography for around 20 years. I wasn't going to give up on my glass. Just started up again with a Df and a D7000. Wasn't going to go the Z-mount route.
Great Video. I have the FM with 50mm f2 lens. I have taken many great pictures with it. Bought it used in the early 90's. Later I bought a modern Contax auto everything. So one very cold Boston night I took the Contax out to shoot night photos but the thing stopped working as it was to cold to operate! My friend had a Pentax K1 that worked perfectly. sold the Contax and still have the old reliable FM.
Great story thanks! There is a lot to be said for these older film cameras. The more manual the better for me! (Normally I use Leica III and Leica M but use Nikon too)
One important thing Matt pointed out is that you should take into account that the eletronics in some cameras may fail. I acquired three Nikon cameras whose eletronics failed: a Nikon FA and an F3HP that were both deemed useless beyond repair and a Nikon FG that has very well known glitches that cause you to loose 3-4 frames. That is why I acquired an FM2(n). It is 100% mechanical, robust and built for rugged use. If its electronics fail, you will only loose the meter. No problem, go Sunny 16 or use a hand lightmeter. I have other SLRs that depend on their eletronics to work such as the Yashica FX-d Quartz, Canon T70 , Canon AE Program and Canon EOS 3000n. None of them have had any glitches so far. Only Nikon cameras did. Do not take me wrong, I have two Nikon DSLRs, i.e. D7000 and D7200 and so far they have worked flawlessly, and best of all, they are 100% compatible with my Nikkor analog lenses.
What a combination: Nikon + Leica!! I also a Nikon Nikomat and a Nikormat FTn. I regard them as a transition from rangefinder to slr. @@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom
Learning on a film camera for the first time. My dads FM his father got from guiding a tourist in Iceland. This was the perfect video to break down all the features and what to think about. Will definitely come back to it. Didn't feel long at all, i was eating up all the info
I have the FE and I am very happy. The only thing I miss (sometimes but not to much) is higher speeds. The spot meter is perfect, if you know how to use
I've been shooting Nikons for over 20 years, and I've had dozens of them including a couple FEs, an FE2, two F3s, an F4, and literally too many F2s to count. I've had problems with all of them at some point or another...except for my FM2n. I've had it for 21 years, I've shot hundreds of rolls of film with it, and it has never failed me once. Hell, I've only had to replace the batteries once. And really, the +0- light meter is much more accurate than people think. 0 is correct exposure, +0 is 1/3 stop overexposed, 0- is 1/3 stop underexposed, and just a + or - is over or underexposed by 2/3 stop or more. The only bad pictures I've taken with it have been my fault, not the camera's. I really like the F2AS and the F4, but if I could only have one camera, it'd be an FM2n.
Thanks Thomas, many say the F3 is the best so nice to hear your feedback! I like the FE2 needle meter, fg-20 size, fm2n too, use FM/FE less now. Not used F4/F5 for a while but will use when eyesight gets worse!
I like to focus using the outer section of the screen while getting my head bit off by polar bears. I find not having to recompose easier, faster, and more accurate than using the split image on the center. This is also the reason why I tend to pick up my F3 more often than my M6. Blasphemy, I know 😱. Great video and info.
For those who still prefer film cameras. Of the cameras reviewed. FM3a is probably the best mechanical Nikon camera. Through technology progress, the improvement through the chain of Nikon cameras were, shutter speed (from 1/1000th sec to 1/4000th sec, shutter material/construction (titanium), light metering (center-weighted in most models, average metering, matrix metering (select-able in FA). Spot, center-weighted, Average 1st started in F4). FM3a was launched in 2001. FA (electronic) in 1983, F3 in 1980-82. Latest model has more features and higher shutter speed, Only FA has 4 different operation modes (M, P, A & S), FM3a has TTL. Early FA were ill-fated due to unreliable electronics. FA model has GOLD plated body version.
I came here by way of your review of the Voigtlander lenses. I have a 27mm Ultron for my Fuji X-Mount cameras and it is a lovely little lens. I picked up a 20mm Skopar and 90mm Skopar early this year for a F2as that I bought. Now I'm thinking I need a 40mm and 58mm for the full frame cameras. ;) You've convinced me to take the FA out for a walk and shoot some frames through it. I haven't shot it in ages. I need to be shooting film anyway. You sure came away with some lovely frames from the models. Well done! Oh yeah, I meant to mention that I always use the split-image for focusing. Then I recompose and shoot. That is how I learned a long (long) time ago. ;)
I have an F3 and an FM2 and for design, history and its smooth operation I prefer the F3. The only thing I don't like is the possibility that a breakdown will leave it unuseable and irreparable, which in FM2 will never happen because it is mechanical. However, at the moment F3 has not given me any problems. I bought it in a box and unused from Japan.
Hello, I started macro with an FE, and switched to E screen for comfort. Also added the large rubber eyecap. The only issue with the camera, which I bought new in 1982, has been a sticky mirror on Bulb, and changing the foam on the back. Note that the FE will correctly meter at well over 1 sec, I have had good slide exposure at 30 secs! Love these cameras, thanks for posting 😎
You asked a question about focusing that I do not think was answered. What I do is to get the surrounding screen to the split finder in focus then do the final check/fine tuning with the split center. This quickens the focusing process for me.
Thanks Francisco! I bought a Nikkormat to play with but haven't had time as yet. I was using a Nikon FM2 in Poland last week. They are all great cameras!
I have an FM2 but hardly ever shoot analog anymore. What I always would've liked to have is a "lowest shutter speed lock". So, for example, you could set a notch on the shutter speed dial to 1/60 and then that would be the lowest it can go. This would make it much easier to set the preferred aperture, compose your picture, blindly turn the shutter speed dial until the light meter shows the circle and then take the picture. As it is now, you always have to check if your shutter speed isn't too low after you've adjusted it for metering. This would be all mechanical and pretty simple to achieve but I don't know if any mechanical SLR ever had this feature.
Nice idea! You can normally see your settings in the VF from memory so it should be easy to check before taking a shot. (I set my settings before taking photos so I never need to check)
I have had Nikon film bodies for a while now and really like each of them for what they do (F2, F3, FA, F100, F5), but after watching this video a couple of times (plus a few others) I decided to pull the trigger on an FE2. Of my manual film bodies I would have to say my FA was my favorite but that changed after I shot the FE2. There is something about the FE2 that just make it seem complete. The plastic prism housing on the FA was always a turn off for me but I did not realize how much until the FE2. Now I started out decades ago shooting sunny/F16 style, have used several different hand held light meters, and used varying levels of automation for exposure. Manual shooting has its place but I prefer aperture priority mostly, so if the batteries die then I will probably stop shooting until I can fix (replace batteries) the camera. My opinion is the need to shoot with out electronics and "reliance" on batteries is over hyped. What do you do if you are shooting digital? You bring back up batteries! And with these manual focus cameras we are talking about a pair of LR44's! Even going to the North Pole or the Amazon or Sahara Desert, I am pretty sure a few extra LR44's will not force you to leave your canteen behind! Besides, if I am that desperate, I can bring my Nikon S2 rangefinder as backup. Anyway, I should be grateful that everyone wants all mechanical cameras since it keeps the demand/price down on what I think are the better ones! I like your slides by the way because sometimes tables are the only organized way of comparing features. Nice job. Now if I can just find the time to run a comparison between the FE2, Canon A-1, Minolta X-700 and Olympus OM-4T, I'll be a happy camper!
Thanks David! I do love the needle dial in the FE2 :) Currently using the FM2 for a change. Fair point on batteries. If it's only for the meter I don't mind.
Great video. I never knew too much about these Nikon's. I have 3 each of the F's, the F2's and Nikkormat's and they have all worked perfectly for 30 years now. I'll keep an eye out to try one of these.
Thanks.. I learnt about the FM3a in the making of this video but used to shoot digital Nikons so picked up the FM first as it was cheap I think! :) Nikon made some very realiable cameras.
Thank you very kind! I hoped people would like it as it took me more that 2 days to make. I need to do a shorter video next ha :) FM.. yes mine is well travelled! ..Not tried the F2 yet!..
On focusing, without the split screen you find where you are out of focus front and back (as the screen in camera doesn't move it doesn't matter whether you are near or far sighted) and then place the focus in the middle of the two. Just like zone focusing and needing the same understanding of depth of field. As to the FE's shutter speed, if you use auto exposure the speeds available are well beyond 8 seconds and at least a stop above 1/1000 (Nikon being conservative). Also if you aren't using filters on the north pole you aren't getting much of a photo anyway. ;)
The entire FM/FE family of cameras are great..I have an FM which I purchased new in 1980. The FM while being a 'downsized' and 'streamlined' version of Nikon's mechanical 35mm SLR line at the time; carries on the tradition of excellent build quality and durability that Nikon was legendary for at the time. I have an F, Nikkormat FT2, and FG the FM is my favorite. Mine still operates like new only thing done to it since I purchased it was have new light seals and mirror box foam installed. The LED diode exposure indicators in the viewfinder make exposure adjustments quick and easy and the meter light sensors are very sensitive.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Yeah I'm aware of the FG-20: at the time I was shopping for a camera for my wife I chose the FG instead due to it's multiple metering options and TTL flash metering capability..she took many excellent photos with her FG..won a couple of photo contests with it. Not quite the build quality of the traditional Nikon 'mechanical' SLR's but a nifty camera nonetheless. She passed away I gave her FG to my granddaughter so it's still in the family but I missed it so much I found another one in excellent condition so I have one in my collection.
Thanks Matt, quite a comprehensive review in record time. As for your focusing question I have had Nikons since my first used Nikkormat which I got with my first money on my first year of college... a long time ago! Since then I have used every analog Nikon except for the F6 (I already had an F4S and did not see what, at the time, the F5 or F6 brought to the table that I would use although I finally swapped it for an F5). The way I focused for close-up subjects was by moving the split image over my subject, focusing, and then reframing. Although you did not mention it, you could have added the F3 to your list. Granted it was the top of the shelf at the time (and people may expect it to be more expensive than any camera on your list, which is not the case anymore) and its sync/mechanical speed (1/90 s) is rather low compared to the various FMs and FEs but it was one of the smoothest caneras I have ever used. It is and feels solid and its advance-film mechanism is probably the best ever made. Price-wise it is cheaper than an FM3A (fortunately I got mine used before the prices went crazy). Usually it goes for the same price as the FM2 with a far more elaborate motor-drive, interchangeable prisms, solid body... but, agreed, it is a FE type Nikon, meaning its shutter is electronic and its only mechanical shutter speed is 1/90. However unless I definitely need a completely mechanical Nikon, it is still the one I love to use for film.
I have the Nikon FM and FE (1 FM, 2 FE and 2 F3), I love the FM because it is all manual and mecanical, if batteries run out you can still shoot ! The lightmeter in the viewfinder of the FM are very simple and easy to use, but I like the system in the FE a lot more more because of the 2 needles, you can see how far the reading are from the shutter speed selected, the llight meter in the F3 sucks, so I most often grapped FE to shoot with in fast situations, but with a bit more time to shoot I use a seperate lightmeter and set shutter speed and aperture at least every 5 minutes or when the light changes. BUT, I think that my two Canon New F1 are the best ever made analog cameras ever made ! Second (shared) are Leicaflex SL2 (origial analog version) and Nikon F2, third must be Contax RTS. Canon New F1 en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_New_F-1 Leicaflex SL2 en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leicaflex_/_SL_/_SL2#Leicaflex_SL2 Nikon F2 en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikon_F2 Contax RTS camerapedia.fandom.com/wiki/Contax_RTS Nikon FM mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm/index.htm Nikon FM mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfeseries/fe/index.htm
Hi JC, sorry I missed this. Yes I like the FE/FE2 meter too. I recently got a Leicaflex SL but not the 2. I wanted the more simple version. Agreed, really really nice cameras! Build is fantastic! Thanks for all the links and for the others mentioned!
Matt , Of all my interests and associated TH-cam videos… this one ranks way ahead. Interesting,informative,to the point, nice touch of comedy and the biggest Wow is your photographic skills … mind blown 🤯 Tony
I'm sure you've moved your FE along by now, but as long as I'm watching the video again, I thought I'd ask! I'll have to check and see if you posted a vid on your favourite Nikkor lenses! Thanks!
Hi! Actually i'm always so busy I rarely find time to sell stuff so it's still in the same clean condition in a box with more cameras. If you're in the UK message me via MrLeica.com blog. Yes I did a Nikkor 50mm lenses video, search MrLeica Nikkor 50mm and you should find it.
I have a Nikon FE with a Nikkor 50mm F2 and a Nikkormat ft2 with a 55mm2.8 Ai micro Nikkor lens. The FE has no identification on the front. The FE will take all my old Nikkor lenses, the FE2 can't. The all black Nikkormat ft2 is my favourite by far. Quirky and beautiful. I gave my FM to my grandaughter and she loves it.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom I just got my hands on a Nikon F2 with a 50mm sc 1.4 lens and that's my weakness now. I also use it with my Nikkor p auto105mm 2.5. Another blank front Nikon. I carry my 1957 Yashica Mat in the same bag. Both cameras need the same cable release adapter which I have fitted onto a long white cable release.
I am happy with my Nikon F2s (F2 Photomic, F2A, F2AS) for the next 60 years. From the midrange Nikon bodies I would choose the FM2n because I like the LEDs better than the needle thing on the left.
@@Funktrainer No F5 are no go to me, I have F3, but the true king was the F2. Since then Canon accelered and later took the lead ! Canon New F1 are the best ever made analog 35mm camera.
@@Anarki2U The F5 platform was the best base for a true digital 35mm SLR system ever made. I will always keep and use my Kodak digital DCS 6xx bodies. Sadly the 7xx models are not that electronically reliable. Nikon stopped making SLR systems with the F5.
Great video. My 2 cents: if 1/1000 is enough for you and you don't need flash TTL, the FE does everything. Just bring some spare batteries (which are very cheap btw). The "reliability of the electronics" isn't a thing: the electronics of the FE simply won't break, or at least the probability is far inferior to the probability that the electronics of a digital camera stops working... Another story is close focusing at wide apertures (below f/2): you better keep your focus point in the center, where you can use the split screen, or recompose but not too much. Otherwise, use a camera with a reliable af module... At f/1.2 if you really want to recompose a tight portrait you should move your feet, in order to keep the focus plane intact: just moving the camera will move the focus point on a sphere, but lenses are designed to minimize field curvature, so those millimeters of discrepancy between the sphere and the plane of focus will easily be too much for the thin depth of field of a 50mm 1.2
Matt you forgot to cover the LED readings. Both 0 and either +/- lights up means over/under within 0.3 stops only +/- lights up means exp off by more than 0.3
I really like having 2 FM2ns for Northern Lights photography because you can have 72 shots without changing film. It also allows you to do stereo photography with a split shutter release.
I took the Fm2 N becaise of you 😀totally happy.Got the 50mm 1.4 with the camera which I most use and Addition took the 105mm 2.5. Enough for me concerning Nikon, Leica never ends🤣
Congrats! Yes I like my FM2 too, used it for a recent shoot. I love Leica but you can make equally nice images with a Nikon I’ve found. (Film not digital)*
These are some of my all time favorite cameras! The FM and FM2, and FM2n. I'm not much for "Autoexsposure". But when I do use it, I prefer shutter priority mode. I find it just great that so many young people are beginning to rekindle the flame of film Photography! From it's crude beginnings in the 1830's to the pinnacle of it's development in the 1980's and 90's, it's still a fantastic bit of technology! I hope that, sooner rather then later, the market will see the introduction of "New" film cameras!
If you are in to these types of cameras, you may want to have a look at the Nikon FA, it's like a FE2 but with matrix metering and PSAM modes sadly only one mechanical speed (1/250th) wich isn't very suitable for every situation should the battery or electronics fail.
Well done Matt! 1st off, for manual focus, for me it's instinct to focus 1st, expose and compose then check focus if I feel I or they moved, especially oif up close to 1/2m., using a 2/3 is multiple subjetcs in different ranges. I grew up in single point AFR so use back focus to lock in and continue. Till this day, I instinctively do this on modern 51+ AF before I remember my AF stick move.
I have 2 FM2n (one that has been used a lot and should be serviced because the little "bitoniau" (?) next to the mirror makes a huge noise when going up...), and a FM3a. I don't know which camera I prefer. For years the big weakness of the FM2 was its rather grainy viewfinder, and when the FM3a came out, the ability to put a 3rd generation screen on the FM2 improved the camera a lot! I never liked the split screen circle in the middle, so I put grid screens instead (very interesting at sea as well...) I think that the 3rd generation of screens are clear enough to focus easily! 🙂
FM3a you're buying the newer parts (less wear, all else equal), hybrid shutter, more updated meter, esp. flash metering, but 750 pounds is quite a jump.
Some info I think you missed: 1) there were 3 versions of the Nikon FM. a) 1st: “3 knurl” version. The rings around the shutter speed dial, the shutter button and the rewind knob are all knurled. b) 2nd: “2 knurl” version. The rings around the shutter button and the shutter speed dial are knurled. The rewind button is smooth. C) 3rd: (latest): “1 knurl” version. Only the shutter speed dial is knurled. Nikon also updated the mechanical innards AND also made the prism interchangeable. This one is the best one in terms of reliability and sells for more on eBay when the seller knows what version they have. I’ve found most of the time the seller seems unaware as all three versions often sell for the same average price. 2) The Nikon FM has a Gallium Photodiode light meter. While this meter is more advanced than the Cadmium Sulphide (CdS) light meter of most cameras at the time, it’s not near as accurate and reliable as the Silicon Photodiode light meters of all Nikon Cameras that succeeded the FM. As a side note: the FM was the only Nikon camera made with the Gallium Photodiode light meter, the previous ones were all Cadmium Sulphide.
Matt, I'm kind of like you in that I don't like to have an older camera where parts are hard to come by as well as repairs that can't be completed because the replacement parts are no longer available. So, I stay away from cameras that depend on the electronics to work. I'm also not an aperture priority guy so that feature is lost on me. So, in this mid range, I've ended up with a FM2n that I picked up from a local camera repair shop and then I got a good price on a FM2/T. Nice light weight and small. Reminds me of my beginnings when I had two Nikon F's which, by the way, are still in use. I keep them because I have a small battery of pre Ai lenses which I will probably never sell. I like the way they render photos.
I prefer my FM2n because my FE don't work other than M90 and B. If to buy a camera with electronic shutter, I think a Canon AE-1 program is a better choise, the viewfinder is excellent, there are more features, and it's more reliable than a Nikon FE, both my experience, and what I've heard, and probably won't be much more expensive either. The Nikon FM2n is a good alternative for an all manual camera, lighter, more compact and cheaper than a Canon F-1. Pentax MX is a possible alternative to a Nikon FM.
Hey thanks Kalle, I was using the FM2 last week, you see it in last nights video. I still need to develop the film. I take as needs no battery and light but I still prefer the FE2 light meter. Thanks for the Canon info!
My first Nikon was the FE, I then passed to the FA and now I shoot with the D3x, although I still love film. I wish I still had my FE as I don't use all the features of my FA ( D15 motor drive included which just adds weight to the body). In short my favourite Nikon film SLR was my original FE. I really regret selling it.
You make great videos, Matt! I'm getting back into photography and these videos are very helpful. Took photography in the mid 80's high school, using my dad's old Praktica FX2. I bought a Canon AE1 in the late 80s, and then the original Canon EOS Rebel S (1990) for the first Gulf War. I have no idea where those cameras ended up, but kinda wish I still had them. Own several Nikon DSLRs now, but just bought a Nikon FM2 on eBay for $250. I hear film photography is heating back up in 2022 so I figured I better get a film camera before they get too spendy again. Boy hasn't film gone up in price? Like $30 a roll! Next purchase will be a good Nikon F5 so I have the range of fully manual and fully automatic film cameras. One of these days I'll dabble in the Leica range as well.
Hi Willy, thanks and thanks for your back story. Great to hear you picked up a FM2. Yes the F5 is a tank, see that video. (and let me know when you get a Leica!)
I used to prefer split screen viewfinders, but I increasingly thought the split screen circle in the middle was actually just annoying for shots like the ones you describe. I hardly ever focus on anything in the middle, so I think I'm starting to prefer regular focusing screens without the split. It looks less cluttered and makes it easier to compose imo. I have an FE, but I want an FM :-)
27:32 are u sure? I have FM and closed wind lever doesn't lock the shutter unless the shutter button collar moved to red position which also doubles as motor winder activation position.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom sorry for my lack of knowledge. I just learned that Nikon made 3 generations of FM with the latest one functions as what you describe. The latest gen was made to match Nikon MD-12 where you don't need to move the shutter collar to motorwind position but Nikon also integrate the shutter lock to the film wind lever. This is problem for me since the lever hits my forehead when doing vertical shoot. I prefer older gen FM with MD-11 where I can close the wind lever for vertical shoot. Light meter is always on when the motorwind is switched on. It's almost like using newer AF Nikons
@@anggaros1 ah no problem I appreciate you writing back. Agreed the lever can get in the way a little. Thanks for the extra detail, I am also learning. (New Nikon SLR video out next week!) :) ..today is Leicas.
PS: Matt, regarding the FM3A, if I am pretty sure that once you set it to "A' mode (automatic mode with Apertutre priority) it is not the mechanical shutter that works but an electronic shutter that kicks in. So no battery, no automatic shutter speed, no A mode (and no light metering of course).
I was so into photography that my dad got me an FE for my 12 birthday to stop driving him nuts. Quite a gift in those days at that age. Later I added an FA. I still have them and occasionally use them. I also love the 50 mm 1,4 and not to forget the fab MD-12 film drive and grip. Try the FA!
to answer your question to the class haha, i shoot my FE2 with the grid screen and i honestly prefer it. i was finding the split image and micro prism to get "blurry" for me and i was getting shots back that i was missing focus. i started using my eye on the Matte part of the screen and double checking with the split image and micro prism instead of relying on it and i was starting to get sharper shots. i guess what im trying to say is that ive been in your shoes and you're on the right track!
Another great video, I have several Nikon SLR cameras. I don’t have any of the FM or FE.. I do have the Nikon F, Nikon F3, Nikon F100 and Nikon FA. Really like shooting the Nikon FA. It has the matrix metering and shutter speed of 1/4000. It’s a little lighter than my Leica M3 and you can pick them up at a great price. Take a look at the Nikon FA if you get a chance.
I owned a brassic FE version and bought it originallysecond hand. I couldn't understand this but this camera would just snap into focus with the standard screen so I didn't need to use the focusing aids in the centre. Incidentally the MD12 motordrive could only be used on the cameras featured in your video but even though the Nikon FA had it own motordrive the MD15 it wouldn't work on the other camera's but the MD12 would work on the FA Just as an aside another good thing bout these early cameras is there are no indentations on the film pressure plate. I found this particularly useful when using Kodak high speed infrared film as there is no anti halation layer in the film and the indentations would appear in all the images. On other camera's I would have to use double sided sticky tape to fasten a piece of matt black card to the said pressure plate.
Thanks Marc! Yes with a diopter for my eyesight I enjoy focusing these cameras. I've just made a video comparing Nikon to Leica lenses, you might like the result! Thanks regarding the pressure plate, interesting point.
Got an FM3a long time ago for $200 in perfect condition (guess I'm lucky). One thing I noticed between the series that I think worth mentioning is that the shutter speed dial in FE series seems a bit easier to turn (as long as you don't caught the A/Auto). While more firm and tactile feeling in the FM's are great, fiddling between shutter speed could felt like a chore compared to the FE series dial that are easier (and faster). Maybe just me nitpicking but the dial in FM3a feels heavy (compared to FE) and it could accidentally caught in A mode which is quite fiddly to turn back to manual mode (have to push the same button like the FE series) ...
If I want to do really critical focusing, I use the magnifier loupe.... When focusing with the split screen, you have to know, that you always do the focusing as if using a little closed aperture (5,6 if I remember correctly), because of the design of the spit prisms... The most acurate is a plane screen with loupe to sum up...
Another very important difference (for me) between these 6 camera models is the hot shoe. Only the FE2 and the FM3a supports TTL metering. That works great and I use it a lot with a cheap small Godox speedlight.
Thanks Jurgen for pointing that out. Sorry I missed it. I realised after I missed a few things but I missed this. Sounds interesting as I use the FE2 as you see..and the Godox 350 TT Nikon mount speedlights.. I've never shot TTL in my life.. i'm a control freak.. I would be scared it would be doing it wrong! Do you just stick the FE2 into AE mode and put the flash in TTL mode then point the camera at a model and hope the brightness is correct?
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom The 350 TT is ideal because it is not an iTTL Speedlight. TTL works technically even better with film cameras than with digital cameras. Analog Cameras can measure the amount of light directly on the film surface. iTTL was only developed because the old method dit no longer work properly with sensors. I turn the dial to A, choose my aperture and set the flash to TTL. Then I turn the flash head towards the wall to bounce. I often take pictures of my children playing, so I don't have the time to measure. it has to be done quickly and focusing is difficult enough with children playing. In wintertimes the 350 TT is alwas attached. But I have to say that I use the Nikon FA and F100, both with matrix metring. I don't know if that makes any difference. The TTL capabilitie is the reason I am currently searching for a FE2. And that was the reason I found you on TH-cam ;-)
@@juergen-schanz thanks for detail and I’m happy you accidentally found the channel! I now have an f100 so I can try that setup also and with bounce. Bounce light is great for weddings, I do it when I need to. Ceiling bounce is beginner stuff, directional wall bounce.. now we are talking! ;) ..you probably know enough already but in my old videos is a model shoot where I fake window light with flash 👍🏻 the 350tt
thanks for the amazing comparison. I got an FE2 based on your video ... but i honestly really feel I wouldn't go wrong if I picked the FM2 since FE2 is better but a slight margin for my use. Shooting with it has been nothing short of amazing. Thanks once again !!! :)
I am happy with my FE2 with MD-11. Admittedly, I don't use the Motor drive all that much. I am going to get the FE as well just so I can shoot my Pre AI lenses with film since I don't have a film body for that. Something to consider if you like "light weight" for travel that falls in line with these bodies is the simple little FG. Intended for more of a beginner photographer, it is actually a pleasant little camera with the only drawback of having the LED light meter. (I prefer the needle the the FE2 as well). It does lack the PC terminal and has a slower shutter - However - it does have programed AE (First Nikon to offer this) and TTL. In my mind - The Nikon FG was more of a direct competitor of the Cannon AE-1 and the Olympus OM-2. Point is - I never thought much of the FG until I picked one up...
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom I sure did. Excellent review. I'll look into the MD-14 you mentioned. For light weight, I pair this with the cheap plastic pancake (American) 50mm f 1.8 but often find my self using the Voigtlander 58mm f 1.4 lens. Oh so good.
Agree about it being a competitor to the ae-1. Shutter goes to 1/000, which is fast enough for most people and if you need a pc terminal put an adapter in the hot shoe; Nikon and Kaiser both made them, and the Kaiser one is easy to find. The film wind feels nasty compared with a FE, but otherwise it’s a great little camera.
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I have the FM, FM2,FE,FE2,FA,F3 and numerous other Nikons but my original FE is my favourite.
Niceeeee! FE more then FE2? I like the extras on the FE2. Nice lineup though!
Why is the FE your favourite mamiyapress
@@robertmacmoneagle6917 It was my first Nikon and it is so easy to use, Aperture Priority and Manual, what more do you actually need, I have five.
@@robertmacmoneagle6917 Favourite Nikon.. it's not now, see today's video :)
I own an FM3a. Incredible camera! The shutter is quite loud to be honest, but sometimes that's a bonus. The sound can be really pleasing once you get used to it.
Thanks Sean, I guess that fact is true of many great cameras! Thinking of the RZ78 from the top of my head for sound :)
All of this series are quite loud, very much so if you put a motor drive on them. I think the F80 is about the quietest Nikon I have heard.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom I own two brand new Nikon FM3As, which I have never used. I bought them in 2005 when Nikon announced their intention to dump the FM line. I also bought seven Nikkor manual focusing lenses at that time. I paid in the low-to-mid $600 range for each camera back then. A couple of days ago, I purchased an unused mint condition Nikkor 50mm f/1.4 lens from Japan. I plan to use this equipment for street photography. Matt, I do have a question: How do you prevent your film from getting fogged by airport X-ray machines? 🤔
@@chesslover8829 great planning getting those cameras back then. Carry film in hand luggage only and you’ll hehe no issues. (I put in clear bag).
@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom I did that 25 years ago, and my 400 speed film got fogged! 🤯😡 There was a time when airports would hand check film. Now they usually won't. Back in the day, Morley Bear took 80 8x10 double-film holders (about 45 kilograms including packaging) loaded with Kodak Super-XX film to Spain and had no difficulties. Nowadays, I would not advise that enterprise. Domke makes the 711-15B Large Filmguard Bag, which I will try on my next trip to Europe in December. It's not completely X-ray proof, but it allegedly reduces X-ray exposure.
Finding this video sitting in India on a trip. I am looking to buy my first film camera and trying to decide on one of these which is how I found your video. Thank you for the wealth of information Matt. Your passion and enthusiasm is palpable. I have never been so excited for a camera purchase. First video i've watched from you, but i can promise it's not my last. Subscribed, I can't wait for the journey.
Thank you, very kind ..and it’s cool to think how far and wide this video reaches 😅. ..if you like Nikon perhaps check out my Voigtlander for Nikon videos. Great lenses!
12:05 I have FM2 with bulb synchro time 1/125. It means that this parameter changed from 1/125 by 1/200 to 1/250. My body was reviewed by Nikon service and they said that the real bulb synchro time is 1/250 ;-) And it works!
FM3a has a hybrid shutter: if the battery is present and in good condition the shutter is controlled electronically, when the battery is exhausted or not present the shutter is controlled mechanically.
Thank you, and very cool about the 1/250 time. I recently got the FM3a as a "new" film camera to use when other cameras die (such as my favourite FE2!)
I wish my F3 had the FE match needle arrangement. Such a pleasing way to expose.
Yes! I love the FE/FE2 needle
Pro tip: apart from the FM3a the best of the lot could be the FA. It shares the same compact body, has various priority modes (not just aperture priority) and manual, max. shutter speed of 1/4000 sec., a titanium shutter, and was the first camera to introduce matrix metering.
Thanks, great tip regarding the FA and cheaper the FM3a!
"the FM3a the best of the lot" - "best of the lot could be the FA" - Sorry, but wrong on both counts. Far too complex as age sets in. - As a technician for photographic cameras, I get many requests to 'fix' malfunctioning FM3a & FA cameras. - The FE2, if folks can keep their fingers out of the thin titanium shutter blades, are EXTREMELY reliable ! - I own F3's, FM3a's FE2's, F2's, FA's among many others (now that I'm older, they're bargains to collect). My favorite Nikon film camera is the FE2...
@@y2ktube Thanks for you OPINION. I have owned an FA and an FE2 and while I get equally good results with both of them I personally prefer the FA. Your point about aging cameras is well taken, but all things being equal that wasn't part of my consideration. I simply prefer the FA a little bit over the FE2, but one can't go wrong with a functioning copy of either model.
I have the FE2 and FA . The bit I hate about the FA is there is no exposure lock. Both are superb cameras . The FA takes care of offcentre subjects with its matrix metering. Yes matrix metering.
@@desertdinghy9833 Well said. The FT3 is such a beautiful chunk of industrial design.
Had the FE since the mid 90s, and im still in love with the green and black needle to know how off i am when i do lock exposure and rearrange my composition. Very swift to handle, without needing to fiddle for minutes :)
Cheers Tom, nice! Yes love the needle :)
To answer your question about method of focusing...it depends upon what composition I'm looking for, but if I'm doing street photography or expect to have to rapidly compose a shot so as not to miss the moment, I'll use aperture priority mode and set my aperture to f8...it's got a very wide depth of field range (especially when using wide angle lenses) and exposure latitude in regard to acceptable shutter speeds. The wide depth of field allows me to quickly "rough focus" using the background matte portion of the focusing screen, with good confidence the subject will be in sharp focus, and with confidence the shutter speed will be high enough to prevent blurring.
My favorite for all around shooting is either my FA (great shutter release and versatility), or my F3P (built like a tank,) but I recently went hiking and ran a couple rolls through my FM2 with great results.
Regarding electronic shutters over mechanical shutters, the original argument came from pros that didn't trust the reliability of electronic shutters and lamented about the "disastrous" consequences of batteries going dead in the field...it was all hogwash. How much space/weight in your kit does a fresh set of batteries require to protect against that? Mechanical shutters also need to be speed calibrated regularly to remain accurate (generally speaking) as compared to electronic shutters. As far a the batteries themselves, don''t use the alkaline LR44 if you can instead find silver oxide SR44 batteries. They last (significantly) longer than alkalines, maintain their terminal voltage constant longer, and don't ever leak into your battery compartment and corrode your battery terminals.
Thank you and great tip regarding batteries!
..I tend to zone focus all cameras now for f8 shots. I got used to this using my 1931 Leica Standard that has no built in RF.
Back in the day I've been shooting FM2 for years; in my opinion, that's one of the best fully mechanical cameras ever made, period.
And as idiot as I am, I sold it, course I needed money for the autofocus camera for work.
Just so you know, there was two additional variants of FM2: in the early 90's Nikon had put the shutter of the F90 inside, I guess due to cost cuttings. No additional functions where added, and you can simply recognise it since it lacks typical honeycomb pattern on the shutter. Few months or a year later that same variant was also made in titanium, hence the name FM2/t.
Thanks, it sounds like I have the F90 shutter one as mine is the FM2n without honeycomb? Sorry you sold yours, hopefully you can get another.
I had a bunch of Nikon FM2s for 20 years. VERY trustworthy.
Thanks yes I will keep mine even though I use rangefinders more. Nice cameras!
@14:02 if im not mistaken the FM3A has only 1 sec as the slowest shutter speed available.
Yes you are correct. Apologies if I said 4sec
22:50 - well, it's tough question.
We have to rely on perfect eyesight. For perfect focus you perform triple focus/recompose dance and this dance is slow. First, you focus using split screen, then you recompose and rack focus ring back and forth, relying on what you're seeing on the focusing screen. Then you return to the split screen in the center to check if you're mistaken and the last time you recompose to double-check the focus and then fire the shutter. The bad thing about this method is that you have to know the shape of the field curvature of the lens you're using and these never come alongside MTF charts in user manuals. It's an invaluable information, IMO, but it's omitted in the manual. Some lenses have complex and weird shapes to their field curvatures, especially AF Nikkor 28-70 mm f3.5-4.5, which at 28 mm set at infinity at f/7.1 or f/8 has sharp center, unsharp round zone near the center, then sharp zone again and unsharp circle around it one more time, sharp left and right far sides and unsharp far corners (diagonal). It's weird. The wavy shape of the image field makes this lens unusable for landscapes or cityscapes, however the lens is sharp and nice at other settings.
Hasselblads from H3 onwards have built-in AF correction for recomposing - it is called "True Focus". The lens is basically sending the information to the camera body on its angle of inclination at the set distance to the object and the camera makes the correction after setting composition you're after. In mirrorless, where everything is AF point, you don't need that at all.
So, Matt... If you're willing to use one camera (FE or FM), it is good a idea to buy B-type focusing screen to perform focus by eye. But there's better solution.
Sell all these cameras and buy F2AS and install the radical H-type screen (whole image field is covered in pyramids) - H3 to be precise, but it has a drawback of not giving you any information on DoF. Are you okay with losing DoF preview? This is the most accurate solution for Nikon film cameras and is wondrous for shooting in low light.
Thanks, excellent detail thank you! Yes I know of Hasselblad True Focus... personal I use edge of focus screen now. If not I would have a 4-focus dance as the model may not be standing completely still so I have to focus shoot fast. I am looking to maybe get the K3 screen. I need (must have) split prism for everything over 1 meter. On Hasselblad 500s I have 1 screen for up close (plain acute-matte d) and 1 split prism for more rare distant shots. I like the size and weight of these Nikon F cameras more than the "better" F2/F3 etc.
I loved seeing your perspective on this. Over the years, I've had an FM (I dropped it and damaged it beyond repair), then FM2, then FE2, then FM3a. Mercifully, when I bought these, the prices were much lower than what you described the current situation is.
Thanks Glenn! Good to hear you got them at a great price! My F4 bounced once, to my amazement!
I'm coming along later to the game (3 years!) and just checked prices on the FM3A. They're running in the $600US range. That is an interesting body because of the combination of features of the FE2 and FM2n.
The Nikon FE was my first camera when i was 22 years old, paired with the MD-12 motordrive and a bunch of good lenses. I used it for my first weddings and sports event. It never failed me whatsoever,. I bought a Hasselblad 500CM when i was more serious about better images for weddings and portrait. Unfortunately i sold all my stuff.when weddings were less a trend and digital photography took a large place. Worst move of my life lol. Just bought a few month ago a Nikon F2 and a FE with MD-12 because i like the grip it add and the fact that you dont need to bother with the winding knob open. You just press the release button half and the metering goes on then press it full and take the photo and advance the film. What i like is that i can fit all my lenses ai and non ai on these 2 cameras. plus my Nikon D7000 and D7200.. Nice comparison!!.
Thanks Richard, nice! Yes see my F4 / F5 videos for more automated Nikon F film bodies (and F80 / F100 vids)
April of 2022 FM3A are going for $1000 on Ebay. My very first camera was an FM. I have owned an FE2 and I still own an FM3A. I also own an F4 and a Bronica SQ-A. I also have several DSLR's
Thanks for price update Michael. Yes all prices have gone a bit crazy sadly.
I have a Nikon Fe, Fe2, F100 and most of the time I take my cheap F301, because it's the best camera I've ever used.
Thanks Gert, please don't tell me this!! I can't buy even more cameras! :) .. but interesting to hear and thanks.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Sorry hahahaha, I understand.
@@GertDHoll :)
How does the F301 feel in hand? I sold my N90s because it just felt so cheap compared to my F100.
I had a nikon fm2n i sold it and recently bought a nikon fm3a and i love it
Great, if I see one cheap I might be tempted!
Had an FE for decades, it still shoots nicely. For auto focus i use an F90. and for digital a D810.
For rough conditions i use a nikonos 5 and an olympus TG6. The current nikon waterproof offerings are not much snuff.
I've often thought about getting an FM just to complete the set.
As for focusing, i have no hard and fast rule. i used the normal screen, sometimes split, sometimes hex, sometimes ground glass outside.
There is no one best way, so learn to use all ways and choose the one that suits you best for the situation.
When i shoot large format i used a lupe on the ground glass.
if you think focusing an FE is fun try a Nikonos.
Thanks Michael! I do show the mighty Nikonos camera in one auction video. It’s a beast!
You also missed the FA, which was called FE3 at the production phase. Then the Nikon people changed it to FA for an unknown reason.
Thanks, yes sorry I tried to keep to only FM/FE bodies but I didn't know this was the "FE3" so thank you!
The matrix metter wasn't ready in time for the FE-2, so they launched that camera with a center weight metter. Shortly after they introduced the FA at more expensive price, so they kept the FE-2 and to keep selling it well they changed the name FE-3 to FA.
Another detail was that the FA was intended to compete with the longstanding Canon A-1, though Nikon probably didn't worry much about what Canon was doing in that time.
In technology, the FA is by far the most advanced, though certainly not as robust as the FM series cameras. To keep the weight in check, Nikon also used carbon fiber top and bottom covers for the FA.
Though, maybe the gold plated FA uses metal covers, I don't know.
The Pentax MX is far superior to the FM. It has far bigger 0.95x prism, interchangeable focus screens, it has full stop and half stops LEDs, exposure can be seen much clearer than in the FE and maybe it can't be seen in the finder of the FM/FM-2, and it had motor drive, and 250 exposures cartridge options, it's smaller and around 20% lighter while sacrificing nothing in quality, and has very small and beautiful Pentax-M lenses, and it's lenses have SMC coating developed with assistance from Zeiss that gives better contrast.
Not all the better MX features over the FM are much used, but some are, overall it's a much better experience. The FM-2 bought 1/4000s and flash synch 1/250s so it's not clear cut which one is better.
@@TheGreatLoco thank you! Really nice information. I think the FE2 is still my fav of the 4 I show here though I actually like the FG-20 for a super lightweight option. I just discovered Leica R cameras (see recent videos and the next one I will post). I will show Nikon vs Leica too and some thoughts.
@@TheGreatLoco At that time, Nikon called it AMP Automatic Multi Pattern/s. Matrix camed later.
If there is any reliable source for this story that AMP-was planned for the FE2 I would be interested to hear it. I doubt any exists. As FM2, FE2 and FA followed very close to each other and at the time the FA was seen as Nikon's version of the automatic SLR like Minolta's XD-7, Canon's A-1 Pentax' Super A which were highly successful. Nikon simply had to bring something extra because they were late to party and they added Automatic aperture with AIs-lenses (which was a much bigger change!) together with AMP-metering to their midrange lineup. In Germnay the three cameras were marketed together as "The Mechanic (FM2), the Electronic (FE2), the Computer (FA)". None of them was vere seen as some kind of stop-gap solution, in fact they were the most consistent lineup available at the time.
The FM was known as 'The Compact Nikon' on launch - the design remains a classic confirmed by Nikon attempting to incorporate 'echo's' into their latest APS C digital camera. And yes the earlier Nikkormat's weight a lot more and have a squared off design that handles less well. Enjoy your photography.
Thanks Michael. I’m
Still enjoying my F bodies even along side Leica iii/ M / R
I am a Loyal Nikon DSLR user .....recently picked a Pentax ME.....this video is so good that it kind of made me realise that till I master the Pentax SLR ....I will Not pick a Nikon SLR.
Thanks Raj! Congrats on your Pentax! When you come to look at film Nikon see my other vids, F80, F100, F4, F5, FG20... :)
Ok getting ready maybe to pick that FE so I am back seeing the video a second time.
I have FM,FE,FM2N,FE2 ... to be honest just be patient and check your local classifieds. The best one is the one you have on you, if you pay $50 for a camera and lens your more likely to carry it with you every where. I would be nervous bringing a FM3A to the beach just because of expense. One thing to mention too though is prices for Nikon glass have been going up and up. Makes it a little hard to recommend Nikon tbh. But my favorite is probably FE2 , 1000s shutter speed is not great for wide open in the day time. 4000 just leaves more options open.
Thanks, good to hear you use them all and enjoy the FE2 too. I've had all my Nikon glass quite a while as I shot digital Nikon (D800 etc). The 85/1.4D seems to have held it's value well. (More Nikon vids coming..as I decide what works for me!) ..hopefully another useful video in the pipeline, just waiting on a body to arrive.
Well, I'm not professional, just an enthusiast but i have the same problem when i practice with my DSLR with objects (toys, ornaments, etc. Not models 😞) and the answer to your question would be...don't panning the camera to recompose, you just make a travelling horizontal or lateral with your body or take a step to the side to recompose (trucking shot technique like a "moonrise kingdom" camp scene). With a Nikon SLR camera, as i read in a post, you can bend the film a little to match the curvature of the lens but I don't know if that works.
I hope I have not misheard or misunderstood your question.
Thanks Roberto, no that’s great thank you. I tend to compose and focus after now with a SLR (and focus with edge of screen if needed). What you say makes sense so thanks.
Seeing your comment again, you can go to a studio open day or organized workshop like I do if you want to try shooting with models.
I still "exercise" my Nikon FE2 and F3. The FE2 is wonderfully light yet rugged, although I slowly allowed the superb F3 to eclipse it. The F3 is smallish and one of the most reliable cameras ever made (imo), Its very long production run says a great deal about it.
Thanks Alexander.. i'venot tried the F3 yet.. I have the F4. Agreed the FE2 is solid and I like the size/ weight.
I have the Nikon F3, but I like the Canon F1 New a lot more !
I have an FM and FE, I bought 3 years ago. I also have an F3 I’ve had for 24 years. I love the F3 but I like the lighter weight of my FM,FE combo. I often go out with the two of them with different prime lenses mounted on each. I’d like to get an FE2 sometime but I got a really good price on my two earlier bodies and didn’t give up much on each vs the 2 versions. While I like to shoot aperture priority, I actually find myself preferring the FM slightly. I like the feel of the transport and sound of the mechanical shutter. As Matt pointed out, another advantage of the early FM,FE bodies as well as the F3 is you can use pre AI lenses which opens up more options when shopping the used lens market
Thanks Eric! I enjoy the small bodies too. FM2 is the lightest.
I have FG-20, FG, FM2n, F, F2 (x2), F3 HP (x2), Nikomats FT / FTn / FT2, Nikonos V. Love all of them😊
Nice! See my other videos, I've reviewed some of these and still need to do a FM3a video!
Bought my first FM2 in 1990 and three more went through my hands over the years for reasons which summed up are the story of my life. But the camera I kept is the FE2. It is like the FM3a minus the Hype and inflated prices plus the "right" logo. I stay clear of the FE/FM as all of them I handled and owned since about 1995 had some kind of problem. If it has been serviced, it is probably ok but factor that in and their successors are still more refined on several accounts.
Thanks, yes I love the FE2 too!
I’ve bought and used several FM2s, a couple of FEs and FE2s and FM3As (as well as a few Nikon F3s); and I still use and shoot with an FE2, FM3A and an F3. In my experience, especially if you tend to use them in ‘manual mode’, there’s not much between them (the F3 aside which was a professional model anyway): they all use the same 35mm film and all share basically the same lenses. For me personally though, I find the Nikon FE2 the most enjoyable to use (and fitted with an FM3a focusing screen it performs exactly the same as the FM3A … so long as the electronics and/or battery don’t die on you! My FE2 though, despite being roughly 40 years old is still working perfectly and going strong!
Thanks Nigel, I enjoy the FE2 the most too!
I started out with the FM2n and then the FE2, both with the added K2 screen. I liked them both, but preferred the feel of the FE2.
At the time, I needed glasses... but didn't know it until years later. Didn't know about the diopters until much later.
Mostly relied on the split screen, but did use the microprism band.
Both have the MD-12 motor drive.
The technology changed, family happened & stopped photography for around 20 years.
I wasn't going to give up on my glass. Just started up again with a Df and a D7000.
Wasn't going to go the Z-mount route.
Nice! Yes I do like the FE2. I use the split prism to focus as a RF guy. Great you’re getting back into it.
Great Video. I have the FM with 50mm f2 lens. I have taken many great pictures with it. Bought it used in the early 90's. Later I bought a modern Contax auto everything. So one very cold Boston night I took the Contax out to shoot night photos but the thing stopped working as it was to cold to operate! My friend had a Pentax K1 that worked perfectly. sold the Contax and still have the old reliable FM.
Great story thanks! There is a lot to be said for these older film cameras. The more manual the better for me! (Normally I use Leica III and Leica M but use Nikon too)
One important thing Matt pointed out is that you should take into account that the eletronics in some cameras may fail. I acquired three Nikon cameras whose eletronics failed: a Nikon FA and an F3HP that were both deemed useless beyond repair and a Nikon FG that has very well known glitches that cause you to loose 3-4 frames. That is why I acquired an FM2(n). It is 100% mechanical, robust and built for rugged use. If its electronics fail, you will only loose the meter. No problem, go Sunny 16 or use a hand lightmeter. I have other SLRs that depend on their eletronics to work such as the Yashica FX-d Quartz, Canon T70 , Canon AE Program and Canon EOS 3000n. None of them have had any glitches so far. Only Nikon cameras did. Do not take me wrong, I have two Nikon DSLRs, i.e. D7000 and D7200 and so far they have worked flawlessly, and best of all, they are 100% compatible with my Nikkor analog lenses.
Yes electronic cameras always worry me a bit so full manual is the ideal. I was using my FM2 this week! (With mechanical Leicas)
What a combination: Nikon + Leica!! I also a Nikon Nikomat and a Nikormat FTn. I regard them as a transition from rangefinder to slr. @@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom
Learning on a film camera for the first time. My dads FM his father got from guiding a tourist in Iceland. This was the perfect video to break down all the features and what to think about. Will definitely come back to it. Didn't feel long at all, i was eating up all the info
Thank you! I think with any video, if you love the topic you can watch for days :)
I have the FE and I am very happy. The only thing I miss (sometimes but not to much) is higher speeds. The spot meter is perfect, if you know how to use
Thanks Pedro! Yes these are all great cameras :)
I've been shooting Nikons for over 20 years, and I've had dozens of them including a couple FEs, an FE2, two F3s, an F4, and literally too many F2s to count. I've had problems with all of them at some point or another...except for my FM2n. I've had it for 21 years, I've shot hundreds of rolls of film with it, and it has never failed me once. Hell, I've only had to replace the batteries once. And really, the +0- light meter is much more accurate than people think. 0 is correct exposure, +0 is 1/3 stop overexposed, 0- is 1/3 stop underexposed, and just a + or - is over or underexposed by 2/3 stop or more. The only bad pictures I've taken with it have been my fault, not the camera's. I really like the F2AS and the F4, but if I could only have one camera, it'd be an FM2n.
Thanks Thomas, many say the F3 is the best so nice to hear your feedback! I like the FE2 needle meter, fg-20 size, fm2n too, use FM/FE less now. Not used F4/F5 for a while but will use when eyesight gets worse!
I like to focus using the outer section of the screen while getting my head bit off by polar bears. I find not having to recompose easier, faster, and more accurate than using the split image on the center. This is also the reason why I tend to pick up my F3 more often than my M6. Blasphemy, I know 😱. Great video and info.
Thank you! Yes yes that is what I do too and for the same reason! ..and yes I feel bad too especially with my blog name ha! :)
I think the Nikon F2's are the mechanical beasts that will outlive all of us.
Thanks! I know the F2 has lots of fans.. and the F3!
For those who still prefer film cameras. Of the cameras reviewed. FM3a is probably the best mechanical Nikon camera. Through technology progress, the improvement through the chain of Nikon cameras were, shutter speed (from 1/1000th sec to 1/4000th sec, shutter material/construction (titanium), light metering (center-weighted in most models, average metering, matrix metering (select-able in FA). Spot, center-weighted, Average 1st started in F4). FM3a was launched in 2001. FA (electronic) in 1983, F3 in 1980-82. Latest model has more features and higher shutter speed, Only FA has 4 different operation modes (M, P, A & S), FM3a has TTL. Early FA were ill-fated due to unreliable electronics. FA model has GOLD plated body version.
Yes it’s nice for sure! I did buy one eventually. I’ll make a video when I can.
I came here by way of your review of the Voigtlander lenses. I have a 27mm Ultron for my Fuji X-Mount cameras and it is a lovely little lens. I picked up a 20mm Skopar and 90mm Skopar early this year for a F2as that I bought. Now I'm thinking I need a 40mm and 58mm for the full frame cameras. ;)
You've convinced me to take the FA out for a walk and shoot some frames through it. I haven't shot it in ages. I need to be shooting film anyway.
You sure came away with some lovely frames from the models. Well done!
Oh yeah, I meant to mention that I always use the split-image for focusing. Then I recompose and shoot. That is how I learned a long (long) time ago. ;)
Thanks and great that you are shooting film again!
I have an F3 and an FM2 and for design, history and its smooth operation I prefer the F3. The only thing I don't like is the possibility that a breakdown will leave it unuseable and irreparable, which in FM2 will never happen because it is mechanical. However, at the moment F3 has not given me any problems.
I bought it in a box and unused from Japan.
It’s a great excuse to own both! I was using my FM2 this week (video to come!)
Hello, I started macro with an FE, and switched to E screen for comfort. Also added the large rubber eyecap. The only issue with the camera, which I bought new in 1982, has been a sticky mirror on Bulb, and changing the foam on the back.
Note that the FE will correctly meter at well over 1 sec, I have had good slide exposure at 30 secs!
Love these cameras, thanks for posting 😎
Thanks Bruce, nice! Old video so great to see it's still getting some views. I use the FM3a currently. Video still to come!
You asked a question about focusing that I do not think was answered. What I do is to get the surrounding screen to the split finder in focus then do the final check/fine tuning with the split center. This quickens the focusing process for me.
Thanks! I since bought a FM3a so video still to come
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom I’ll be watching for it! Your videos are very informative.
Had a Nikkormat way back when, took great photos. Got an FM a while ago when rediscovering the beauty of film...great camera.
Thanks Francisco! I bought a Nikkormat to play with but haven't had time as yet. I was using a Nikon FM2 in Poland last week. They are all great cameras!
I have an FM2 but hardly ever shoot analog anymore. What I always would've liked to have is a "lowest shutter speed lock". So, for example, you could set a notch on the shutter speed dial to 1/60 and then that would be the lowest it can go. This would make it much easier to set the preferred aperture, compose your picture, blindly turn the shutter speed dial until the light meter shows the circle and then take the picture. As it is now, you always have to check if your shutter speed isn't too low after you've adjusted it for metering. This would be all mechanical and pretty simple to achieve but I don't know if any mechanical SLR ever had this feature.
Nice idea! You can normally see your settings in the VF from memory so it should be easy to check before taking a shot. (I set my settings before taking photos so I never need to check)
You can use whatever camera - you make fantastic photos - nevertheless I will go for FM3A
Thanks Robert! I too later bought the FM3a. I still need to make a video
Hi Matt
According to repairers FE2 is very reliable they rarely see it, but they often have to repair FM3A shutter
Wow I’ve never seen this. I got a FM3a as a backup for my FE2 in case it died.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom fm3a has a complex hybrid shutter, complexity means more prone to failure
F3's backup was the FM
I have had Nikon film bodies for a while now and really like each of them for what they do (F2, F3, FA, F100, F5), but after watching this video a couple of times (plus a few others) I decided to pull the trigger on an FE2. Of my manual film bodies I would have to say my FA was my favorite but that changed after I shot the FE2. There is something about the FE2 that just make it seem complete. The plastic prism housing on the FA was always a turn off for me but I did not realize how much until the FE2. Now I started out decades ago shooting sunny/F16 style, have used several different hand held light meters, and used varying levels of automation for exposure. Manual shooting has its place but I prefer aperture priority mostly, so if the batteries die then I will probably stop shooting until I can fix (replace batteries) the camera. My opinion is the need to shoot with out electronics and "reliance" on batteries is over hyped. What do you do if you are shooting digital? You bring back up batteries! And with these manual focus cameras we are talking about a pair of LR44's! Even going to the North Pole or the Amazon or Sahara Desert, I am pretty sure a few extra LR44's will not force you to leave your canteen behind! Besides, if I am that desperate, I can bring my Nikon S2 rangefinder as backup. Anyway, I should be grateful that everyone wants all mechanical cameras since it keeps the demand/price down on what I think are the better ones! I like your slides by the way because sometimes tables are the only organized way of comparing features. Nice job. Now if I can just find the time to run a comparison between the FE2, Canon A-1, Minolta X-700 and Olympus OM-4T, I'll be a happy camper!
Thanks David! I do love the needle dial in the FE2 :) Currently using the FM2 for a change. Fair point on batteries. If it's only for the meter I don't mind.
Great video. I never knew too much about these Nikon's. I have 3 each of the F's, the F2's and Nikkormat's and they have all worked perfectly for 30 years now. I'll keep an eye out to try one of these.
Thanks.. I learnt about the FM3a in the making of this video but used to shoot digital Nikons so picked up the FM first as it was cheap I think! :) Nikon made some very realiable cameras.
I know the Nikon FM2 was a super camera when I had one new. Great image as always, keep well keep save and be happy
Thanks John!
again an amazing video, thank you.
I love my F2 with the DP1, the FM is also fantastic
Thank you very kind! I hoped people would like it as it took me more that 2 days to make. I need to do a shorter video next ha :) FM.. yes mine is well travelled! ..Not tried the F2 yet!..
me too!! F2 GANG GANG
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCompls no short videos. You are fantastic like that ! Best to you, Matt !
On focusing, without the split screen you find where you are out of focus front and back (as the screen in camera doesn't move it doesn't matter whether you are near or far sighted) and then place the focus in the middle of the two. Just like zone focusing and needing the same understanding of depth of field.
As to the FE's shutter speed, if you use auto exposure the speeds available are well beyond 8 seconds and at least a stop above 1/1000 (Nikon being conservative). Also if you aren't using filters on the north pole you aren't getting much of a photo anyway. ;)
Thanks Mike, great points and info thanks!
The entire FM/FE family of cameras are great..I have an FM which I purchased new in 1980. The FM while being a 'downsized' and 'streamlined' version of Nikon's mechanical 35mm SLR line at the time; carries on the tradition of excellent build quality and durability that Nikon was legendary for at the time. I have an F, Nikkormat FT2, and FG the FM is my favorite. Mine still operates like new only thing done to it since I purchased it was have new light seals and mirror box foam installed. The LED diode exposure indicators in the viewfinder make exposure adjustments quick and easy and the meter light sensors are very sensitive.
Thanks Thomas! Yes i'm a big fan of these cameras. I still use the alongside my Leicas and other film cameras :) See my FG-20 video if you missed it!
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Yeah I'm aware of the FG-20: at the time I was shopping for a camera for my wife I chose the FG instead due to it's multiple metering options and TTL flash metering capability..she took many excellent photos with her FG..won a couple of photo contests with it. Not quite the build quality of the traditional Nikon 'mechanical' SLR's but a nifty camera nonetheless. She passed away I gave her FG to my granddaughter so it's still in the family but I missed it so much I found another one in excellent condition so I have one in my collection.
@@thomasmoje5926 ah great back story, thanks!
I switched to Canon when they went to alto focus, used Nikon in the begin of my photography!
Never to
Never too late to go back! :)
Thanks Matt, quite a comprehensive review in record time. As for your focusing question I have had Nikons since my first used Nikkormat which I got with my first money on my first year of college... a long time ago! Since then I have used every analog Nikon except for the F6 (I already had an F4S and did not see what, at the time, the F5 or F6 brought to the table that I would use although I finally swapped it for an F5). The way I focused for close-up subjects was by moving the split image over my subject, focusing, and then reframing.
Although you did not mention it, you could have added the F3 to your list. Granted it was the top of the shelf at the time (and people may expect it to be more expensive than any camera on your list, which is not the case anymore) and its sync/mechanical speed (1/90 s) is rather low compared to the various FMs and FEs but it was one of the smoothest caneras I have ever used. It is and feels solid and its advance-film mechanism is probably the best ever made. Price-wise it is cheaper than an FM3A (fortunately I got mine used before the prices went crazy). Usually it goes for the same price as the FM2 with a far more elaborate motor-drive, interchangeable prisms, solid body... but, agreed, it is a FE type Nikon, meaning its shutter is electronic and its only mechanical shutter speed is 1/90. However unless I definitely need a completely mechanical Nikon, it is still the one I love to use for film.
Thanks Bruno and for the F3 great insight. I since bought a Nikkormat but i''ve still not had a chance to use it.
I have the Nikon FM and FE (1 FM, 2 FE and 2 F3), I love the FM because it is all manual and mecanical, if batteries run out you can still shoot ! The lightmeter in the viewfinder of the FM are very simple and easy to use, but I like the system in the FE a lot more more because of the 2 needles, you can see how far the reading are from the shutter speed selected, the llight meter in the F3 sucks, so I most often grapped FE to shoot with in fast situations, but with a bit more time to shoot I use a seperate lightmeter and set shutter speed and aperture at least every 5 minutes or when the light changes.
BUT, I think that my two Canon New F1 are the best ever made analog cameras ever made ! Second (shared) are Leicaflex SL2 (origial analog version) and Nikon F2, third must be Contax RTS.
Canon New F1 en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_New_F-1
Leicaflex SL2 en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leicaflex_/_SL_/_SL2#Leicaflex_SL2
Nikon F2 en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikon_F2
Contax RTS camerapedia.fandom.com/wiki/Contax_RTS
Nikon FM mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm/index.htm
Nikon FM mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfeseries/fe/index.htm
Hi JC, sorry I missed this. Yes I like the FE/FE2 meter too. I recently got a Leicaflex SL but not the 2. I wanted the more simple version. Agreed, really really nice cameras! Build is fantastic! Thanks for all the links and for the others mentioned!
Matt ,
Of all my interests and associated TH-cam videos… this one ranks way ahead.
Interesting,informative,to the point, nice touch of comedy and the biggest Wow is your photographic skills … mind blown 🤯
Tony
Thanks Tony! Very kind. Yes nice cameras for sure :)
Thank you again Matt for all your time and big effort making a very, very good presentation. RS
Thanks Richard! This long and older video continues to get views.
I'm sure you've moved your FE along by now, but as long as I'm watching the video again, I thought I'd ask! I'll have to check and see if you posted a vid on your favourite Nikkor lenses! Thanks!
Hi! Actually i'm always so busy I rarely find time to sell stuff so it's still in the same clean condition in a box with more cameras. If you're in the UK message me via MrLeica.com blog. Yes I did a Nikkor 50mm lenses video, search MrLeica Nikkor 50mm and you should find it.
I have a Nikon FE with a Nikkor 50mm F2
and a Nikkormat ft2 with a 55mm2.8 Ai micro Nikkor lens.
The FE has no identification on the front. The FE will take all my old Nikkor lenses, the FE2 can't.
The all black Nikkormat ft2 is my favourite by far. Quirky and beautiful.
I gave my FM to my grandaughter and she loves it.
Thanks Neil, the 55mm Micro is excellent! I love mine! Yes FM and FE are blank on the front.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom I just got my hands on a Nikon F2 with a 50mm sc 1.4 lens and that's my weakness now. I also use it with my Nikkor p auto105mm 2.5. Another blank front Nikon.
I carry my 1957 Yashica Mat in the same bag. Both cameras need the same cable release adapter which I have fitted onto a long white cable release.
@@neilpiper9889 congrats Neil! I have the SC 50mm f1.4
Good video !
I have an FM2, FM3a and two Olympus OM1 and OM2n They are al great an beautiful. I take one or the others depending of the day.
Nice, yes I now have the FM3a too.. love the meter in the FM3a and FE2.
I am happy with my Nikon F2s (F2 Photomic, F2A, F2AS) for the next 60 years.
From the midrange Nikon bodies I would choose the FM2n because I like the LEDs better than the needle thing on the left.
Thanks, I've not tried any F2s yet.. Yes I read someone else saying they prefer the simple LED setup. Variety is good :)
I think that with Nikon F2 it was the top period for Nikon
@@Anarki2U Very true. The next legend was the F5 afterwards came just mediocre camera bodies, nothing extremely great.
@@Funktrainer No F5 are no go to me, I have F3, but the true king was the F2. Since then Canon accelered and later took the lead ! Canon New F1 are the best ever made analog 35mm camera.
@@Anarki2U The F5 platform was the best base for a true digital 35mm SLR system ever made. I will always keep and use my Kodak digital DCS 6xx bodies. Sadly the 7xx models are not that electronically reliable. Nikon stopped making SLR systems with the F5.
Great video. My 2 cents: if 1/1000 is enough for you and you don't need flash TTL, the FE does everything. Just bring some spare batteries (which are very cheap btw). The "reliability of the electronics" isn't a thing: the electronics of the FE simply won't break, or at least the probability is far inferior to the probability that the electronics of a digital camera stops working... Another story is close focusing at wide apertures (below f/2): you better keep your focus point in the center, where you can use the split screen, or recompose but not too much. Otherwise, use a camera with a reliable af module... At f/1.2 if you really want to recompose a tight portrait you should move your feet, in order to keep the focus plane intact: just moving the camera will move the focus point on a sphere, but lenses are designed to minimize field curvature, so those millimeters of discrepancy between the sphere and the plane of focus will easily be too much for the thin depth of field of a 50mm 1.2
Thank you great tips. Yes many agree these old Nikon lenses are well built and need less servicing verses Leica R etc
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom I can not speak for the Leica glass, unfortunately :-) Very nice channel and beautiful shots btw
I’ve always thought it rather odd that the FM had LEDs for the meter while the slighter later, and electronic FE fad a needle.
Good point Stephen though I think the needle in this case is the more advanced of the two.. I prefer my FE2 of the bunch currently.
I’ve owned both and find the needle more precise.
@@alexblaze8878 thanks Alex, I prefer the needle too
Matt you forgot to cover the LED readings. Both 0 and either +/- lights up means over/under within 0.3 stops only +/- lights up means exp off by more than 0.3
I really like having 2 FM2ns for Northern Lights photography because you can have 72 shots without changing film. It also allows you to do stereo photography with a split shutter release.
Thanks John, perfect setup for your needs!
I took the Fm2 N becaise of you 😀totally happy.Got the 50mm 1.4 with the camera which I most use and Addition took the 105mm 2.5. Enough for me concerning Nikon, Leica never ends🤣
Congrats! Yes I like my FM2 too, used it for a recent shoot. I love Leica but you can make equally nice images with a Nikon I’ve found. (Film not digital)*
These are some of my all time favorite cameras!
The FM and FM2, and FM2n.
I'm not much for "Autoexsposure". But when I do use it, I prefer shutter priority mode.
I find it just great that so many young people are beginning to rekindle the flame of film Photography!
From it's crude beginnings in the 1830's to the pinnacle of it's development in the 1980's and 90's, it's still a fantastic bit of technology! I hope that, sooner rather then later, the market will see the introduction of "New" film cameras!
Thanks Robin! Yes me too regarding a new film camera. It seems a no brainer / good money maker.
If you are in to these types of cameras, you may want to have a look at the Nikon FA, it's like a FE2 but with matrix metering and PSAM modes sadly only one mechanical speed (1/250th) wich isn't very suitable for every situation should the battery or electronics fail.
Thanks Rick!
Well done Matt! 1st off, for manual focus, for me it's instinct to focus 1st, expose and compose then check focus if I feel I or they moved, especially oif up close to 1/2m., using a 2/3 is multiple subjetcs in different ranges. I grew up in single point AFR so use back focus to lock in and continue. Till this day, I instinctively do this on modern 51+ AF before I remember my AF stick move.
Thanks! Thanks roughly how I shoot too with these Nikons
You missed out the AE lock function - push the self timer lever the other way 😉 I’ve had my FEs for years and only just discovered this!
Ah thank you! I never use that feature but good to know thanks!
I have 2 FM2n (one that has been used a lot and should be serviced because the little "bitoniau" (?) next to the mirror makes a huge noise when going up...), and a FM3a. I don't know which camera I prefer. For years the big weakness of the FM2 was its rather grainy viewfinder, and when the FM3a came out, the ability to put a 3rd generation screen on the FM2 improved the camera a lot! I never liked the split screen circle in the middle, so I put grid screens instead (very interesting at sea as well...) I think that the 3rd generation of screens are clear enough to focus easily! 🙂
Thanks Luc, nice. I need the split prism screens to see but that’s just my eyesight & being used to rangefinder cameras!
FM3a you're buying the newer parts (less wear, all else equal), hybrid shutter, more updated meter, esp. flash metering, but 750 pounds is quite a jump.
Yes as you predicted I now own a FM3a to future proof my setup. I still need to make a video for it. Stay tuned!
Some info I think you missed:
1) there were 3 versions of the Nikon FM.
a) 1st: “3 knurl” version. The rings around the shutter speed dial, the shutter button and the rewind knob are all knurled.
b) 2nd: “2 knurl” version. The rings around the shutter button and the shutter speed dial are knurled. The rewind button is smooth.
C) 3rd: (latest): “1 knurl” version. Only the shutter speed dial is knurled. Nikon also updated the mechanical innards AND also made the prism interchangeable.
This one is the best one in terms of reliability and sells for more on eBay when the seller knows what version they have. I’ve found most of the time the seller
seems unaware as all three versions often sell for the same average price.
2) The Nikon FM has a Gallium Photodiode light meter. While this meter is more advanced than the Cadmium Sulphide (CdS) light meter of most cameras at the time, it’s not near as accurate and reliable as the Silicon Photodiode light meters of all Nikon Cameras that succeeded the FM. As a side note: the FM was the only Nikon camera made with the Gallium Photodiode light meter, the previous ones were all Cadmium Sulphide.
Hi Alex, thanks! You are the first viewer to ever mention the 3 versions and about the meter so thanks for sharing this great info.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom you’re welcome!
Matt, I'm kind of like you in that I don't like to have an older camera where parts are hard to come by as well as repairs that can't be completed because the replacement parts are no longer available. So, I stay away from cameras that depend on the electronics to work. I'm also not an aperture priority guy so that feature is lost on me. So, in this mid range, I've ended up with a FM2n that I picked up from a local camera repair shop and then I got a good price on a FM2/T. Nice light weight and small. Reminds me of my beginnings when I had two Nikon F's which, by the way, are still in use. I keep them because I have a small battery of pre Ai lenses which I will probably never sell. I like the way they render photos.
Thanks, nice yes I like the more simple less electronic cameras too!
I prefer my FM2n because my FE don't work other than M90 and B. If to buy a camera with electronic shutter, I think a Canon AE-1 program is a better choise, the viewfinder is excellent, there are more features, and it's more reliable than a Nikon FE, both my experience, and what I've heard, and probably won't be much more expensive either. The Nikon FM2n is a good alternative for an all manual camera, lighter, more compact and cheaper than a Canon F-1. Pentax MX is a possible alternative to a Nikon FM.
Hey thanks Kalle, I was using the FM2 last week, you see it in last nights video. I still need to develop the film. I take as needs no battery and light but I still prefer the FE2 light meter. Thanks for the Canon info!
My first Nikon was the FE, I then passed to the FA and now I shoot with the D3x, although I still love film. I wish I still had my FE as I don't use all the features of my FA ( D15 motor drive included which just adds weight to the body). In short my favourite Nikon film SLR was my original FE. I really regret selling it.
Thanks Mario, it’s never too late to get another FE on eBay! :)
You make great videos, Matt! I'm getting back into photography and these videos are very helpful. Took photography in the mid 80's high school, using my dad's old Praktica FX2. I bought a Canon AE1 in the late 80s, and then the original Canon EOS Rebel S (1990) for the first Gulf War. I have no idea where those cameras ended up, but kinda wish I still had them. Own several Nikon DSLRs now, but just bought a Nikon FM2 on eBay for $250. I hear film photography is heating back up in 2022 so I figured I better get a film camera before they get too spendy again. Boy hasn't film gone up in price? Like $30 a roll!
Next purchase will be a good Nikon F5 so I have the range of fully manual and fully automatic film cameras.
One of these days I'll dabble in the Leica range as well.
Hi Willy, thanks and thanks for your back story. Great to hear you picked up a FM2. Yes the F5 is a tank, see that video. (and let me know when you get a Leica!)
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom No Leica yet, but my F5 arrived today. I'm so stoked!
@@willywinket Enjoy!
Fantastic video, and the pics are even better somehow! Just won an FM2 with a few lenses and a film drive and I can't wait to get it in hand.
Thanks Duane! Wow what an awesome prize!! Congrats mate. You will love it!
I used to prefer split screen viewfinders, but I increasingly thought the split screen circle in the middle was actually just annoying for shots like the ones you describe. I hardly ever focus on anything in the middle, so I think I'm starting to prefer regular focusing screens without the split. It looks less cluttered and makes it easier to compose imo.
I have an FE, but I want an FM :-)
I 'need' the split screen for my eye sight but yes I use a plain screen on the Hasselblads for close ups for the reason you mention.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Well I wish the Hasselblad 500 series had better split-screens, as good as Nikon's!
Fab videos matt. Ive owned every Nikon SLR. Best for me is the original F and F2. Big love for another artist photograher 😎
Thanks David! Much appreciated :)
I have an FE and FM. I like them both a lot. My FE came with a grid screen which I didn’t like so I picked up a K screen on EBay for $20
Thanks Eric, YES that is identical to the FE I have! Did you get the K3 screen? I'm tempted! :)
27:32 are u sure? I have FM and closed wind lever doesn't lock the shutter unless the shutter button collar moved to red position which also doubles as motor winder activation position.
Thanks for asking, I will have to check again, I thought mine did from memory but perhaps I was wrong.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom sorry for my lack of knowledge. I just learned that Nikon made 3 generations of FM with the latest one functions as what you describe. The latest gen was made to match Nikon MD-12 where you don't need to move the shutter collar to motorwind position but Nikon also integrate the shutter lock to the film wind lever. This is problem for me since the lever hits my forehead when doing vertical shoot. I prefer older gen FM with MD-11 where I can close the wind lever for vertical shoot. Light meter is always on when the motorwind is switched on. It's almost like using newer AF Nikons
@@anggaros1 ah no problem I appreciate you writing back. Agreed the lever can get in the way a little. Thanks for the extra detail, I am also learning. (New Nikon SLR video out next week!) :) ..today is Leicas.
PS: Matt, regarding the FM3A, if I am pretty sure that once you set it to "A' mode (automatic mode with Apertutre priority) it is not the mechanical shutter that works but an electronic shutter that kicks in. So no battery, no automatic shutter speed, no A mode (and no light metering of course).
Ah thanks Bruno, you sound like you know more on this than me so thanks for sharing.
I was so into photography that my dad got me an FE for my 12 birthday to stop driving him nuts. Quite a gift in those days at that age. Later I added an FA. I still have them and occasionally use them. I also love the 50 mm 1,4 and not to forget the fab MD-12 film drive and grip. Try the FA!
Thanks Andreas! Ok I’ll put the FA on my list. My next video is on this video topic so stay tuned! :)
Love the brassing on the FM! I've lusted over the FM3A for a long time but never pulled the trigger. haha!
Thanks Mike! Yes I bought it as a beater back in 2012 for £100 with lens :) Yes the FM3a does seem to tick the boxes doesn't it! :)
Timelessness video, helped me a lot. It’s good to see that you are not just an gearhead but a talented photographer!
Thanks Pavel! Yes I definitely feel more of a photographer than a youtuber! :)
to answer your question to the class haha, i shoot my FE2 with the grid screen and i honestly prefer it. i was finding the split image and micro prism to get "blurry" for me and i was getting shots back that i was missing focus. i started using my eye on the Matte part of the screen and double checking with the split image and micro prism instead of relying on it and i was starting to get sharper shots. i guess what im trying to say is that ive been in your shoes and you're on the right track!
Thanks for the info! I need the the split prism for greater than 1.5m ish but yes close up I prefer the edge of the screen. Many thanks!
Focus edge of focusing screen for off center if a flat field lens such as macro lens . For all other lens which are curved use the edge to focus.
Thanks! That's the most comprehensive answer so far.
Another great video, I have several Nikon SLR cameras. I don’t have any of the FM or FE.. I do have the Nikon F, Nikon F3, Nikon F100 and Nikon FA. Really like shooting the Nikon FA. It has the matrix metering and shutter speed of 1/4000. It’s a little lighter than my Leica M3 and you can pick them up at a great price. Take a look at the Nikon FA if you get a chance.
Thanks Daniel! Please don't tell me the FA is good.. I can't buy more haha.. OK I check it! :) F100 to come too! :)
I owned a brassic FE version and bought it originallysecond hand.
I couldn't understand this but this camera would just snap into focus with the standard screen so I didn't need to use the focusing aids in the centre.
Incidentally the MD12 motordrive could only be used on the cameras featured in your video but even though the Nikon FA had it own motordrive the MD15 it wouldn't work on the other camera's but the MD12 would work on the FA
Just as an aside another good thing bout these early cameras is there are no indentations on the film pressure plate. I found this particularly useful when using Kodak high speed infrared film as there is no anti halation layer in the film and the indentations would appear in all the images.
On other camera's I would have to use double sided sticky tape to fasten a piece of matt black card to the said pressure plate.
Thanks Marc! Yes with a diopter for my eyesight I enjoy focusing these cameras. I've just made a video comparing Nikon to Leica lenses, you might like the result! Thanks regarding the pressure plate, interesting point.
I got fm2n, fg for dirt cheap. I plan on buying f3 next year
Great! Yes you can still find some great Nikon deals
This is the second time I watched this informative video. Excellent!
Thanks Henry! :)
Got an FM3a long time ago for $200 in perfect condition (guess I'm lucky). One thing I noticed between the series that I think worth mentioning is that the shutter speed dial in FE series seems a bit easier to turn (as long as you don't caught the A/Auto). While more firm and tactile feeling in the FM's are great, fiddling between shutter speed could felt like a chore compared to the FE series dial that are easier (and faster). Maybe just me nitpicking but the dial in FM3a feels heavy (compared to FE) and it could accidentally caught in A mode which is quite fiddly to turn back to manual mode (have to push the same button like the FE series) ...
Thanks for sharing. I will have to check my dials now to see how they compare! :)
If I want to do really critical focusing, I use the magnifier loupe....
When focusing with the split screen, you have to know, that you always do the focusing as if using a little closed aperture (5,6 if I remember correctly), because of the design of the spit prisms... The most acurate is a plane screen with loupe to sum up...
Great info thanks! I'm amazed I hit as many as I do then!
Happy to trade my FE2 standard screen for your grid screen!
We can do that. Remind me where you live? Within Europe?
Another very important difference (for me) between these 6 camera models is the hot shoe. Only the FE2 and the FM3a supports TTL metering. That works great and I use it a lot with a cheap small Godox speedlight.
Thanks Jurgen for pointing that out. Sorry I missed it. I realised after I missed a few things but I missed this. Sounds interesting as I use the FE2 as you see..and the Godox 350 TT Nikon mount speedlights.. I've never shot TTL in my life.. i'm a control freak.. I would be scared it would be doing it wrong! Do you just stick the FE2 into AE mode and put the flash in TTL mode then point the camera at a model and hope the brightness is correct?
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom The 350 TT is ideal because it is not an iTTL Speedlight. TTL works technically even better with film cameras than with digital cameras. Analog Cameras can measure the amount of light directly on the film surface. iTTL was only developed because the old method dit no longer work properly with sensors. I turn the dial to A, choose my aperture and set the flash to TTL. Then I turn the flash head towards the wall to bounce. I often take pictures of my children playing, so I don't have the time to measure. it has to be done quickly and focusing is difficult enough with children playing. In wintertimes the 350 TT is alwas attached. But I have to say that I use the Nikon FA and F100, both with matrix metring. I don't know if that makes any difference. The TTL capabilitie is the reason I am currently searching for a FE2. And that was the reason I found you on TH-cam ;-)
@@juergen-schanz thanks for detail and I’m happy you accidentally found the channel! I now have an f100 so I can try that setup also and with bounce. Bounce light is great for weddings, I do it when I need to. Ceiling bounce is beginner stuff, directional wall bounce.. now we are talking! ;) ..you probably know enough already but in my old videos is a model shoot where I fake window light with flash 👍🏻 the 350tt
@@juergen-schanz more videos to follow! :)
I already watched the windowlight-video yesterday.
thanks for the amazing comparison. I got an FE2 based on your video ... but i honestly really feel I wouldn't go wrong if I picked the FM2 since FE2 is better but a slight margin for my use. Shooting with it has been nothing short of amazing. Thanks once again !!! :)
Thanks! Both are great, I like the needle meter on the FE2 :)
I COMPOSE using the split image, because I am usually trying to make a small detail the focal point
Thanks for confirming, yes for me it’s usually the closest eye so it needs to be pin sharp
Just decided to purchase FM2(n) model. Will check it soon.
Great congrats!
I wish there was a conversion where you could put the FE match needle on the F3, not the biggest fan of the +- mettering
Yes I like the FE/FE2 needle too!
I am happy with my FE2 with MD-11. Admittedly, I don't use the Motor drive all that much. I am going to get the FE as well just so I can shoot my Pre AI lenses with film since I don't have a film body for that. Something to consider if you like "light weight" for travel that falls in line with these bodies is the simple little FG. Intended for more of a beginner photographer, it is actually a pleasant little camera with the only drawback of having the LED light meter. (I prefer the needle the the FE2 as well). It does lack the PC terminal and has a slower shutter - However - it does have programed AE (First Nikon to offer this) and TTL. In my mind - The Nikon FG was more of a direct competitor of the Cannon AE-1 and the Olympus OM-2. Point is - I never thought much of the FG until I picked one up...
Thank you Luis! Did you see my rave review of the FG-20! 😁 Like you I really like them and I’m happy you suggested it here.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom I sure did. Excellent review. I'll look into the MD-14 you mentioned. For light weight, I pair this with the cheap plastic pancake (American) 50mm f 1.8 but often find my self using the Voigtlander 58mm f 1.4 lens. Oh so good.
Agree about it being a competitor to the ae-1. Shutter goes to 1/000, which is fast enough for most people and if you need a pc terminal put an adapter in the hot shoe; Nikon and Kaiser both made them, and the Kaiser one is easy to find. The film wind feels nasty compared with a FE, but otherwise it’s a great little camera.