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I own an FM3a. Incredible camera! The shutter is quite loud to be honest, but sometimes that's a bonus. The sound can be really pleasing once you get used to it.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom I own two brand new Nikon FM3As, which I have never used. I bought them in 2005 when Nikon announced their intention to dump the FM line. I also bought seven Nikkor manual focusing lenses at that time. I paid in the low-to-mid $600 range for each camera back then. A couple of days ago, I purchased an unused mint condition Nikkor 50mm f/1.4 lens from Japan. I plan to use this equipment for street photography. Matt, I do have a question: How do you prevent your film from getting fogged by airport X-ray machines? 🤔
@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom I did that 25 years ago, and my 400 speed film got fogged! 🤯😡 There was a time when airports would hand check film. Now they usually won't. Back in the day, Morley Bear took 80 8x10 double-film holders (about 45 kilograms including packaging) loaded with Kodak Super-XX film to Spain and had no difficulties. Nowadays, I would not advise that enterprise. Domke makes the 711-15B Large Filmguard Bag, which I will try on my next trip to Europe in December. It's not completely X-ray proof, but it allegedly reduces X-ray exposure.
Finding this video sitting in India on a trip. I am looking to buy my first film camera and trying to decide on one of these which is how I found your video. Thank you for the wealth of information Matt. Your passion and enthusiasm is palpable. I have never been so excited for a camera purchase. First video i've watched from you, but i can promise it's not my last. Subscribed, I can't wait for the journey.
Thank you, very kind ..and it’s cool to think how far and wide this video reaches 😅. ..if you like Nikon perhaps check out my Voigtlander for Nikon videos. Great lenses!
I loved seeing your perspective on this. Over the years, I've had an FM (I dropped it and damaged it beyond repair), then FM2, then FE2, then FM3a. Mercifully, when I bought these, the prices were much lower than what you described the current situation is.
I'm coming along later to the game (3 years!) and just checked prices on the FM3A. They're running in the $600US range. That is an interesting body because of the combination of features of the FE2 and FM2n.
Had the FE since the mid 90s, and im still in love with the green and black needle to know how off i am when i do lock exposure and rearrange my composition. Very swift to handle, without needing to fiddle for minutes :)
Pro tip: apart from the FM3a the best of the lot could be the FA. It shares the same compact body, has various priority modes (not just aperture priority) and manual, max. shutter speed of 1/4000 sec., a titanium shutter, and was the first camera to introduce matrix metering.
"the FM3a the best of the lot" - "best of the lot could be the FA" - Sorry, but wrong on both counts. Far too complex as age sets in. - As a technician for photographic cameras, I get many requests to 'fix' malfunctioning FM3a & FA cameras. - The FE2, if folks can keep their fingers out of the thin titanium shutter blades, are EXTREMELY reliable ! - I own F3's, FM3a's FE2's, F2's, FA's among many others (now that I'm older, they're bargains to collect). My favorite Nikon film camera is the FE2...
@@y2ktube Thanks for you OPINION. I have owned an FA and an FE2 and while I get equally good results with both of them I personally prefer the FA. Your point about aging cameras is well taken, but all things being equal that wasn't part of my consideration. I simply prefer the FA a little bit over the FE2, but one can't go wrong with a functioning copy of either model.
I have the FE2 and FA . The bit I hate about the FA is there is no exposure lock. Both are superb cameras . The FA takes care of offcentre subjects with its matrix metering. Yes matrix metering.
Back in the day I've been shooting FM2 for years; in my opinion, that's one of the best fully mechanical cameras ever made, period. And as idiot as I am, I sold it, course I needed money for the autofocus camera for work. Just so you know, there was two additional variants of FM2: in the early 90's Nikon had put the shutter of the F90 inside, I guess due to cost cuttings. No additional functions where added, and you can simply recognise it since it lacks typical honeycomb pattern on the shutter. Few months or a year later that same variant was also made in titanium, hence the name FM2/t.
I came here by way of your review of the Voigtlander lenses. I have a 27mm Ultron for my Fuji X-Mount cameras and it is a lovely little lens. I picked up a 20mm Skopar and 90mm Skopar early this year for a F2as that I bought. Now I'm thinking I need a 40mm and 58mm for the full frame cameras. ;) You've convinced me to take the FA out for a walk and shoot some frames through it. I haven't shot it in ages. I need to be shooting film anyway. You sure came away with some lovely frames from the models. Well done! Oh yeah, I meant to mention that I always use the split-image for focusing. Then I recompose and shoot. That is how I learned a long (long) time ago. ;)
Learning on a film camera for the first time. My dads FM his father got from guiding a tourist in Iceland. This was the perfect video to break down all the features and what to think about. Will definitely come back to it. Didn't feel long at all, i was eating up all the info
I like to focus using the outer section of the screen while getting my head bit off by polar bears. I find not having to recompose easier, faster, and more accurate than using the split image on the center. This is also the reason why I tend to pick up my F3 more often than my M6. Blasphemy, I know 😱. Great video and info.
thanks for the amazing comparison. I got an FE2 based on your video ... but i honestly really feel I wouldn't go wrong if I picked the FM2 since FE2 is better but a slight margin for my use. Shooting with it has been nothing short of amazing. Thanks once again !!! :)
Matt , Of all my interests and associated TH-cam videos… this one ranks way ahead. Interesting,informative,to the point, nice touch of comedy and the biggest Wow is your photographic skills … mind blown 🤯 Tony
I have the FE and I am very happy. The only thing I miss (sometimes but not to much) is higher speeds. The spot meter is perfect, if you know how to use
Tack Matt, du är väldigt didaktik och trevlig i dina presentationer som är mycket innehållsrika dessutom. Du ser ut som att du kommer direkt från en verkstad 😊 och mellan jobben fixade du videon.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Thank you Matt, you are very didactic and nice in your presentations which are very rich in content as well. You look like you came straight from a workshop 😊 and between jobs you fixed the video.
The FM was known as 'The Compact Nikon' on launch - the design remains a classic confirmed by Nikon attempting to incorporate 'echo's' into their latest APS C digital camera. And yes the earlier Nikkormat's weight a lot more and have a squared off design that handles less well. Enjoy your photography.
Great video. I never knew too much about these Nikon's. I have 3 each of the F's, the F2's and Nikkormat's and they have all worked perfectly for 30 years now. I'll keep an eye out to try one of these.
Thanks.. I learnt about the FM3a in the making of this video but used to shoot digital Nikons so picked up the FM first as it was cheap I think! :) Nikon made some very realiable cameras.
The Nikon FE was my first camera when i was 22 years old, paired with the MD-12 motordrive and a bunch of good lenses. I used it for my first weddings and sports event. It never failed me whatsoever,. I bought a Hasselblad 500CM when i was more serious about better images for weddings and portrait. Unfortunately i sold all my stuff.when weddings were less a trend and digital photography took a large place. Worst move of my life lol. Just bought a few month ago a Nikon F2 and a FE with MD-12 because i like the grip it add and the fact that you dont need to bother with the winding knob open. You just press the release button half and the metering goes on then press it full and take the photo and advance the film. What i like is that i can fit all my lenses ai and non ai on these 2 cameras. plus my Nikon D7000 and D7200.. Nice comparison!!.
Great Video. I have the FM with 50mm f2 lens. I have taken many great pictures with it. Bought it used in the early 90's. Later I bought a modern Contax auto everything. So one very cold Boston night I took the Contax out to shoot night photos but the thing stopped working as it was to cold to operate! My friend had a Pentax K1 that worked perfectly. sold the Contax and still have the old reliable FM.
Great story thanks! There is a lot to be said for these older film cameras. The more manual the better for me! (Normally I use Leica III and Leica M but use Nikon too)
Thank you very kind! I hoped people would like it as it took me more that 2 days to make. I need to do a shorter video next ha :) FM.. yes mine is well travelled! ..Not tried the F2 yet!..
Great to hear the host pronounce the word "Nikon" as 'Knee Con' instead of most hosts in YT pronounce it as 'Nigh-Con'. My highest respect! 👍🙇🏻♂️ I own Nikon FM2N. It's a tough camera! 👍
I'm sure you've moved your FE along by now, but as long as I'm watching the video again, I thought I'd ask! I'll have to check and see if you posted a vid on your favourite Nikkor lenses! Thanks!
Hi! Actually i'm always so busy I rarely find time to sell stuff so it's still in the same clean condition in a box with more cameras. If you're in the UK message me via MrLeica.com blog. Yes I did a Nikkor 50mm lenses video, search MrLeica Nikkor 50mm and you should find it.
Hi James, please see the blog post on MrLeica.com, search Nikon FE2 etc then click any photo to see original full res post with camera, lens, film info. I use a lot of different stocks and kit.
Very thorough review/ tutorial. I travelled all over the world with two Nikon FE. Based upon many years and miles together, I think that people put way too much emphasis on the possibility for the battery and electronics to fail. Oh and focusing off center... as you correctly observed, no need to center you subject to focus. This is one of the many strengths of an SLR. Am also wondering how you’re getting on with the kentmere films?
Thanks Brad! Yes I do love how tough these cameras are. As for Kentmere, see MrLeica.com review for 100 & 400 and see my early YT video on 400.. it links to the results in a blog post.
Thanks for all your work that went into this video! I just love my FM3a! And I guess chances are it will last longer than older models. But remember: The picture quality with film cameras depends on the lens (and the film/development and you), not the camera!
Hi Matt! Where's Nikkomat/Nikkormat? 😊😊... got a Nikkomat, F3, F4 (the tank) and a F100 ... 😊😊... on Digi side a D2sx... You should try out the F100 with battery grip, filled with lithium batteries and the AIs lenses...😍 Besides: I recompose..
Recompose.. thanks! .. F100 ..did you see the teaser at the start!? ;) It will come! F4.. great camera! it will come! :) Not tried the others yet! .thanks about lithium batteries.. someone else tell me this.
These are some of my all time favorite cameras! The FM and FM2, and FM2n. I'm not much for "Autoexsposure". But when I do use it, I prefer shutter priority mode. I find it just great that so many young people are beginning to rekindle the flame of film Photography! From it's crude beginnings in the 1830's to the pinnacle of it's development in the 1980's and 90's, it's still a fantastic bit of technology! I hope that, sooner rather then later, the market will see the introduction of "New" film cameras!
Hello, I started macro with an FE, and switched to E screen for comfort. Also added the large rubber eyecap. The only issue with the camera, which I bought new in 1982, has been a sticky mirror on Bulb, and changing the foam on the back. Note that the FE will correctly meter at well over 1 sec, I have had good slide exposure at 30 secs! Love these cameras, thanks for posting 😎
I have FM,FE,FM2N,FE2 ... to be honest just be patient and check your local classifieds. The best one is the one you have on you, if you pay $50 for a camera and lens your more likely to carry it with you every where. I would be nervous bringing a FM3A to the beach just because of expense. One thing to mention too though is prices for Nikon glass have been going up and up. Makes it a little hard to recommend Nikon tbh. But my favorite is probably FE2 , 1000s shutter speed is not great for wide open in the day time. 4000 just leaves more options open.
Thanks, good to hear you use them all and enjoy the FE2 too. I've had all my Nikon glass quite a while as I shot digital Nikon (D800 etc). The 85/1.4D seems to have held it's value well. (More Nikon vids coming..as I decide what works for me!) ..hopefully another useful video in the pipeline, just waiting on a body to arrive.
I have an FM and FE, I bought 3 years ago. I also have an F3 I’ve had for 24 years. I love the F3 but I like the lighter weight of my FM,FE combo. I often go out with the two of them with different prime lenses mounted on each. I’d like to get an FE2 sometime but I got a really good price on my two earlier bodies and didn’t give up much on each vs the 2 versions. While I like to shoot aperture priority, I actually find myself preferring the FM slightly. I like the feel of the transport and sound of the mechanical shutter. As Matt pointed out, another advantage of the early FM,FE bodies as well as the F3 is you can use pre AI lenses which opens up more options when shopping the used lens market
Thanks Matt, quite a comprehensive review in record time. As for your focusing question I have had Nikons since my first used Nikkormat which I got with my first money on my first year of college... a long time ago! Since then I have used every analog Nikon except for the F6 (I already had an F4S and did not see what, at the time, the F5 or F6 brought to the table that I would use although I finally swapped it for an F5). The way I focused for close-up subjects was by moving the split image over my subject, focusing, and then reframing. Although you did not mention it, you could have added the F3 to your list. Granted it was the top of the shelf at the time (and people may expect it to be more expensive than any camera on your list, which is not the case anymore) and its sync/mechanical speed (1/90 s) is rather low compared to the various FMs and FEs but it was one of the smoothest caneras I have ever used. It is and feels solid and its advance-film mechanism is probably the best ever made. Price-wise it is cheaper than an FM3A (fortunately I got mine used before the prices went crazy). Usually it goes for the same price as the FM2 with a far more elaborate motor-drive, interchangeable prisms, solid body... but, agreed, it is a FE type Nikon, meaning its shutter is electronic and its only mechanical shutter speed is 1/90. However unless I definitely need a completely mechanical Nikon, it is still the one I love to use for film.
Another great video, I have several Nikon SLR cameras. I don’t have any of the FM or FE.. I do have the Nikon F, Nikon F3, Nikon F100 and Nikon FA. Really like shooting the Nikon FA. It has the matrix metering and shutter speed of 1/4000. It’s a little lighter than my Leica M3 and you can pick them up at a great price. Take a look at the Nikon FA if you get a chance.
I started out with the FM2n and then the FE2, both with the added K2 screen. I liked them both, but preferred the feel of the FE2. At the time, I needed glasses... but didn't know it until years later. Didn't know about the diopters until much later. Mostly relied on the split screen, but did use the microprism band. Both have the MD-12 motor drive. The technology changed, family happened & stopped photography for around 20 years. I wasn't going to give up on my glass. Just started up again with a Df and a D7000. Wasn't going to go the Z-mount route.
The matrix metter wasn't ready in time for the FE-2, so they launched that camera with a center weight metter. Shortly after they introduced the FA at more expensive price, so they kept the FE-2 and to keep selling it well they changed the name FE-3 to FA. Another detail was that the FA was intended to compete with the longstanding Canon A-1, though Nikon probably didn't worry much about what Canon was doing in that time. In technology, the FA is by far the most advanced, though certainly not as robust as the FM series cameras. To keep the weight in check, Nikon also used carbon fiber top and bottom covers for the FA. Though, maybe the gold plated FA uses metal covers, I don't know. The Pentax MX is far superior to the FM. It has far bigger 0.95x prism, interchangeable focus screens, it has full stop and half stops LEDs, exposure can be seen much clearer than in the FE and maybe it can't be seen in the finder of the FM/FM-2, and it had motor drive, and 250 exposures cartridge options, it's smaller and around 20% lighter while sacrificing nothing in quality, and has very small and beautiful Pentax-M lenses, and it's lenses have SMC coating developed with assistance from Zeiss that gives better contrast. Not all the better MX features over the FM are much used, but some are, overall it's a much better experience. The FM-2 bought 1/4000s and flash synch 1/250s so it's not clear cut which one is better.
@@TheGreatLoco thank you! Really nice information. I think the FE2 is still my fav of the 4 I show here though I actually like the FG-20 for a super lightweight option. I just discovered Leica R cameras (see recent videos and the next one I will post). I will show Nikon vs Leica too and some thoughts.
If there is any reliable source for this story that AMP-was planned for the FE2 I would be interested to hear it. I doubt any exists. As FM2, FE2 and FA followed very close to each other and at the time the FA was seen as Nikon's version of the automatic SLR like Minolta's XD-7, Canon's A-1 Pentax' Super A which were highly successful. Nikon simply had to bring something extra because they were late to party and they added Automatic aperture with AIs-lenses (which was a much bigger change!) together with AMP-metering to their midrange lineup. In Germnay the three cameras were marketed together as "The Mechanic (FM2), the Electronic (FE2), the Computer (FA)". None of them was vere seen as some kind of stop-gap solution, in fact they were the most consistent lineup available at the time.
Well, I'm not professional, just an enthusiast but i have the same problem when i practice with my DSLR with objects (toys, ornaments, etc. Not models 😞) and the answer to your question would be...don't panning the camera to recompose, you just make a travelling horizontal or lateral with your body or take a step to the side to recompose (trucking shot technique like a "moonrise kingdom" camp scene). With a Nikon SLR camera, as i read in a post, you can bend the film a little to match the curvature of the lens but I don't know if that works. I hope I have not misheard or misunderstood your question.
Thanks Roberto, no that’s great thank you. I tend to compose and focus after now with a SLR (and focus with edge of screen if needed). What you say makes sense so thanks.
Had an FE for decades, it still shoots nicely. For auto focus i use an F90. and for digital a D810. For rough conditions i use a nikonos 5 and an olympus TG6. The current nikon waterproof offerings are not much snuff. I've often thought about getting an FM just to complete the set. As for focusing, i have no hard and fast rule. i used the normal screen, sometimes split, sometimes hex, sometimes ground glass outside. There is no one best way, so learn to use all ways and choose the one that suits you best for the situation. When i shoot large format i used a lupe on the ground glass. if you think focusing an FE is fun try a Nikonos.
One important thing Matt pointed out is that you should take into account that the eletronics in some cameras may fail. I acquired three Nikon cameras whose eletronics failed: a Nikon FA and an F3HP that were both deemed useless beyond repair and a Nikon FG that has very well known glitches that cause you to loose 3-4 frames. That is why I acquired an FM2(n). It is 100% mechanical, robust and built for rugged use. If its electronics fail, you will only loose the meter. No problem, go Sunny 16 or use a hand lightmeter. I have other SLRs that depend on their eletronics to work such as the Yashica FX-d Quartz, Canon T70 , Canon AE Program and Canon EOS 3000n. None of them have had any glitches so far. Only Nikon cameras did. Do not take me wrong, I have two Nikon DSLRs, i.e. D7000 and D7200 and so far they have worked flawlessly, and best of all, they are 100% compatible with my Nikkor analog lenses.
What a combination: Nikon + Leica!! I also a Nikon Nikomat and a Nikormat FTn. I regard them as a transition from rangefinder to slr. @@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom
You make great videos, Matt! I'm getting back into photography and these videos are very helpful. Took photography in the mid 80's high school, using my dad's old Praktica FX2. I bought a Canon AE1 in the late 80s, and then the original Canon EOS Rebel S (1990) for the first Gulf War. I have no idea where those cameras ended up, but kinda wish I still had them. Own several Nikon DSLRs now, but just bought a Nikon FM2 on eBay for $250. I hear film photography is heating back up in 2022 so I figured I better get a film camera before they get too spendy again. Boy hasn't film gone up in price? Like $30 a roll! Next purchase will be a good Nikon F5 so I have the range of fully manual and fully automatic film cameras. One of these days I'll dabble in the Leica range as well.
Hi Willy, thanks and thanks for your back story. Great to hear you picked up a FM2. Yes the F5 is a tank, see that video. (and let me know when you get a Leica!)
I really like having 2 FM2ns for Northern Lights photography because you can have 72 shots without changing film. It also allows you to do stereo photography with a split shutter release.
I have been thinking about this group. How about the Nikon FA? Is it no good? Seems to cost in the FM FE range. Doesn't it belong in this group? Just wondering why, with all its features, it isn't more popular. I do understand that you have to draw the line somewhere. I really enjoy your Nikon videos. Especially how you show the viewfinder. Brilliant! Thanks!
Thanks, yes TBH I should have mentioned the FA too but at the time I was trying to limit myself to models with FM and FE in the name. Many people like the FA.
For those who still prefer film cameras. Of the cameras reviewed. FM3a is probably the best mechanical Nikon camera. Through technology progress, the improvement through the chain of Nikon cameras were, shutter speed (from 1/1000th sec to 1/4000th sec, shutter material/construction (titanium), light metering (center-weighted in most models, average metering, matrix metering (select-able in FA). Spot, center-weighted, Average 1st started in F4). FM3a was launched in 2001. FA (electronic) in 1983, F3 in 1980-82. Latest model has more features and higher shutter speed, Only FA has 4 different operation modes (M, P, A & S), FM3a has TTL. Early FA were ill-fated due to unreliable electronics. FA model has GOLD plated body version.
Hi Matt, great video as always, I just picked up a Nikon F3 and a Canon A1 and look forward to playing with these two! Any film recommendations, both color and B&W? Thanks
Hey Ryan, ah tricky as i've never used that lens. I have the Nikkor 1.2 AIS but the gem I found recently is the Nikkor 50mm f2 AI - see the 50mm shootout video. (not the "Fast 50mm" video)
April of 2022 FM3A are going for $1000 on Ebay. My very first camera was an FM. I have owned an FE2 and I still own an FM3A. I also own an F4 and a Bronica SQ-A. I also have several DSLR's
Great review of these Nikon cameras. I like the comparative aspect of this review. Especially I like the ability to see the viewfinders and what information is obtained through looking at them. Something that can make or break a deal. Thanks!
12:05 I have FM2 with bulb synchro time 1/125. It means that this parameter changed from 1/125 by 1/200 to 1/250. My body was reviewed by Nikon service and they said that the real bulb synchro time is 1/250 ;-) And it works! FM3a has a hybrid shutter: if the battery is present and in good condition the shutter is controlled electronically, when the battery is exhausted or not present the shutter is controlled mechanically.
Thank you, and very cool about the 1/250 time. I recently got the FM3a as a "new" film camera to use when other cameras die (such as my favourite FE2!)
Some info I think you missed: 1) there were 3 versions of the Nikon FM. a) 1st: “3 knurl” version. The rings around the shutter speed dial, the shutter button and the rewind knob are all knurled. b) 2nd: “2 knurl” version. The rings around the shutter button and the shutter speed dial are knurled. The rewind button is smooth. C) 3rd: (latest): “1 knurl” version. Only the shutter speed dial is knurled. Nikon also updated the mechanical innards AND also made the prism interchangeable. This one is the best one in terms of reliability and sells for more on eBay when the seller knows what version they have. I’ve found most of the time the seller seems unaware as all three versions often sell for the same average price. 2) The Nikon FM has a Gallium Photodiode light meter. While this meter is more advanced than the Cadmium Sulphide (CdS) light meter of most cameras at the time, it’s not near as accurate and reliable as the Silicon Photodiode light meters of all Nikon Cameras that succeeded the FM. As a side note: the FM was the only Nikon camera made with the Gallium Photodiode light meter, the previous ones were all Cadmium Sulphide.
Thanks Francisco! I bought a Nikkormat to play with but haven't had time as yet. I was using a Nikon FM2 in Poland last week. They are all great cameras!
I’ve bought and used several FM2s, a couple of FEs and FE2s and FM3As (as well as a few Nikon F3s); and I still use and shoot with an FE2, FM3A and an F3. In my experience, especially if you tend to use them in ‘manual mode’, there’s not much between them (the F3 aside which was a professional model anyway): they all use the same 35mm film and all share basically the same lenses. For me personally though, I find the Nikon FE2 the most enjoyable to use (and fitted with an FM3a focusing screen it performs exactly the same as the FM3A … so long as the electronics and/or battery don’t die on you! My FE2 though, despite being roughly 40 years old is still working perfectly and going strong!
Good evening Matt. Great to see such a Wonderful video on such Lovely Cameras! I have The FM2N and love it. Also, the F3HP which is Beast of a Camera. With regards to the FE ,I was recently given one the only problem is that the Light Seals on it need replacing. Preety certain I can do that but, at some point some of the Black seal has stuck to The Mirror? Do you advise me to try using lighter fuel to soften the Black seal which is on The Mirror? Great to see such a Wonderful line up of Classic Nikons. Many thanks and Kind regards Colyn R.S.V.P.
Thanks Colyn! I'm afraid i'm not really a camera repair guy type and lack such skills! I tend to send cameras for repair if I need to fix something. Maybe Google your query as i'm sure someone with know the answer. I hope you get an answer but what you say makes sense so you can try it and it shouldn't damage anything.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Many thanks for your Kind message Matt. To be honest, neither am I. Still I appreciate Your advice. Keep up Your Good work and of course Your great videos. Stay safe and sound. P.s. Lovely Photos, also I would stick with The FM2N. Split Screen for me. Thanks again. Many thanks and Kind regards Colyn.
@@colynbarrett8127 no problem, yes I will go back to my trusty FM2N too I think for trips, but it’s nice to know I’ve tried some of the alternatives and already have the best - ie. split screen nicely made manual focus cameras :)
I still "exercise" my Nikon FE2 and F3. The FE2 is wonderfully light yet rugged, although I slowly allowed the superb F3 to eclipse it. The F3 is smallish and one of the most reliable cameras ever made (imo), Its very long production run says a great deal about it.
Well done Matt! 1st off, for manual focus, for me it's instinct to focus 1st, expose and compose then check focus if I feel I or they moved, especially oif up close to 1/2m., using a 2/3 is multiple subjetcs in different ranges. I grew up in single point AFR so use back focus to lock in and continue. Till this day, I instinctively do this on modern 51+ AF before I remember my AF stick move.
Great video! I can see how much prep you put into making your videos, and you consistently do a great job. This one is especially thorough. I have a Nikon FM2n, and it seems like a great camera, although I haven’t had it long. I don’t like the split image focusing aid, so I use the microprism in the collar surrounding the split image. I’d like to know which lenses you prefer, since I only have one so far, the 50mm f/1.4 Ai. I’m thinking of an 85mm f/2 AiS.
Hi Larry thank you! I assumed this was a comment from my recent videos where I am going the extra 10 miles to make them as watchable as I can. This is details but much longer and more like my older video format. I appreciate you kind words. Hmm lenses is a huge topic for these. I offer Zoom calls if you want to get youself setup with lenses for your FM2. Bring a pen and notebook as the conversation will be very info heavy and I can reel offer lots of good lenses to consider in different FL. mrleica.com/zoom/
I was so into photography that my dad got me an FE for my 12 birthday to stop driving him nuts. Quite a gift in those days at that age. Later I added an FA. I still have them and occasionally use them. I also love the 50 mm 1,4 and not to forget the fab MD-12 film drive and grip. Try the FA!
Seen this vid of you from last year. Matt, just brilliant, absolutely. I have the FE2 since mid 80ties and finally learn some features.. haha.. buy the motor drive. I have it, and it's a hammer clonk the sound when shooting. Big fun.. keep going. thx jack.
Great review Matt! I am still a bit confused about what to buy but at least I know the difference between those models. I think that Nikon FM will be the most likely pick.
I've been shooting Nikons for over 20 years, and I've had dozens of them including a couple FEs, an FE2, two F3s, an F4, and literally too many F2s to count. I've had problems with all of them at some point or another...except for my FM2n. I've had it for 21 years, I've shot hundreds of rolls of film with it, and it has never failed me once. Hell, I've only had to replace the batteries once. And really, the +0- light meter is much more accurate than people think. 0 is correct exposure, +0 is 1/3 stop overexposed, 0- is 1/3 stop underexposed, and just a + or - is over or underexposed by 2/3 stop or more. The only bad pictures I've taken with it have been my fault, not the camera's. I really like the F2AS and the F4, but if I could only have one camera, it'd be an FM2n.
Thanks Thomas, many say the F3 is the best so nice to hear your feedback! I like the FE2 needle meter, fg-20 size, fm2n too, use FM/FE less now. Not used F4/F5 for a while but will use when eyesight gets worse!
I have the Nikon FM and FE (1 FM, 2 FE and 2 F3), I love the FM because it is all manual and mecanical, if batteries run out you can still shoot ! The lightmeter in the viewfinder of the FM are very simple and easy to use, but I like the system in the FE a lot more more because of the 2 needles, you can see how far the reading are from the shutter speed selected, the llight meter in the F3 sucks, so I most often grapped FE to shoot with in fast situations, but with a bit more time to shoot I use a seperate lightmeter and set shutter speed and aperture at least every 5 minutes or when the light changes. BUT, I think that my two Canon New F1 are the best ever made analog cameras ever made ! Second (shared) are Leicaflex SL2 (origial analog version) and Nikon F2, third must be Contax RTS. Canon New F1 en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_New_F-1 Leicaflex SL2 en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leicaflex_/_SL_/_SL2#Leicaflex_SL2 Nikon F2 en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikon_F2 Contax RTS camerapedia.fandom.com/wiki/Contax_RTS Nikon FM mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm/index.htm Nikon FM mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfeseries/fe/index.htm
Hi JC, sorry I missed this. Yes I like the FE/FE2 meter too. I recently got a Leicaflex SL but not the 2. I wanted the more simple version. Agreed, really really nice cameras! Build is fantastic! Thanks for all the links and for the others mentioned!
What a fantastic video. A great mix of technical information and superb photographs and excellent delivery. I think the only detail that may have been missing was that when you use a non AI lens (FM or FE), you focus at the aperture you want to use, but you then press the depth of field preview to stop the lens down and meter in stop down mode. I have an FM for 35mm and a D300 for digital. I only use Nikon manual focus lenses. I prefer the FM diode metering simply because it's easy to use in lower light conditions and I think it's a slightly more robust system compared to the needle metering. Congratulations on a fab video Matt. I'll have to check your other videos.
Thank you Simon! Great tip on metering.. I think most of my lenses are AIS so i've never needed to do anything 'special' but noted thanks! Yes I post 2 videos each week so 150+ shared so far :)
To answer your question about method of focusing...it depends upon what composition I'm looking for, but if I'm doing street photography or expect to have to rapidly compose a shot so as not to miss the moment, I'll use aperture priority mode and set my aperture to f8...it's got a very wide depth of field range (especially when using wide angle lenses) and exposure latitude in regard to acceptable shutter speeds. The wide depth of field allows me to quickly "rough focus" using the background matte portion of the focusing screen, with good confidence the subject will be in sharp focus, and with confidence the shutter speed will be high enough to prevent blurring. My favorite for all around shooting is either my FA (great shutter release and versatility), or my F3P (built like a tank,) but I recently went hiking and ran a couple rolls through my FM2 with great results. Regarding electronic shutters over mechanical shutters, the original argument came from pros that didn't trust the reliability of electronic shutters and lamented about the "disastrous" consequences of batteries going dead in the field...it was all hogwash. How much space/weight in your kit does a fresh set of batteries require to protect against that? Mechanical shutters also need to be speed calibrated regularly to remain accurate (generally speaking) as compared to electronic shutters. As far a the batteries themselves, don''t use the alkaline LR44 if you can instead find silver oxide SR44 batteries. They last (significantly) longer than alkalines, maintain their terminal voltage constant longer, and don't ever leak into your battery compartment and corrode your battery terminals.
Very good video Matt. Well done with the details! I don't shoot the SLR types. I am only interested in the range finder style, but I did (as always) enjoy the video. End of class - 😀😀😀
Thanks I really appreciate you watching this as a rangefinder guy. I promise I will reward you with a rangefinder type video soon! (You know they are my favourites!) :)
The entire FM/FE family of cameras are great..I have an FM which I purchased new in 1980. The FM while being a 'downsized' and 'streamlined' version of Nikon's mechanical 35mm SLR line at the time; carries on the tradition of excellent build quality and durability that Nikon was legendary for at the time. I have an F, Nikkormat FT2, and FG the FM is my favorite. Mine still operates like new only thing done to it since I purchased it was have new light seals and mirror box foam installed. The LED diode exposure indicators in the viewfinder make exposure adjustments quick and easy and the meter light sensors are very sensitive.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Yeah I'm aware of the FG-20: at the time I was shopping for a camera for my wife I chose the FG instead due to it's multiple metering options and TTL flash metering capability..she took many excellent photos with her FG..won a couple of photo contests with it. Not quite the build quality of the traditional Nikon 'mechanical' SLR's but a nifty camera nonetheless. She passed away I gave her FG to my granddaughter so it's still in the family but I missed it so much I found another one in excellent condition so I have one in my collection.
I used to prefer split screen viewfinders, but I increasingly thought the split screen circle in the middle was actually just annoying for shots like the ones you describe. I hardly ever focus on anything in the middle, so I think I'm starting to prefer regular focusing screens without the split. It looks less cluttered and makes it easier to compose imo. I have an FE, but I want an FM :-)
Matt, I'm kind of like you in that I don't like to have an older camera where parts are hard to come by as well as repairs that can't be completed because the replacement parts are no longer available. So, I stay away from cameras that depend on the electronics to work. I'm also not an aperture priority guy so that feature is lost on me. So, in this mid range, I've ended up with a FM2n that I picked up from a local camera repair shop and then I got a good price on a FM2/T. Nice light weight and small. Reminds me of my beginnings when I had two Nikon F's which, by the way, are still in use. I keep them because I have a small battery of pre Ai lenses which I will probably never sell. I like the way they render photos.
I have had Nikon film bodies for a while now and really like each of them for what they do (F2, F3, FA, F100, F5), but after watching this video a couple of times (plus a few others) I decided to pull the trigger on an FE2. Of my manual film bodies I would have to say my FA was my favorite but that changed after I shot the FE2. There is something about the FE2 that just make it seem complete. The plastic prism housing on the FA was always a turn off for me but I did not realize how much until the FE2. Now I started out decades ago shooting sunny/F16 style, have used several different hand held light meters, and used varying levels of automation for exposure. Manual shooting has its place but I prefer aperture priority mostly, so if the batteries die then I will probably stop shooting until I can fix (replace batteries) the camera. My opinion is the need to shoot with out electronics and "reliance" on batteries is over hyped. What do you do if you are shooting digital? You bring back up batteries! And with these manual focus cameras we are talking about a pair of LR44's! Even going to the North Pole or the Amazon or Sahara Desert, I am pretty sure a few extra LR44's will not force you to leave your canteen behind! Besides, if I am that desperate, I can bring my Nikon S2 rangefinder as backup. Anyway, I should be grateful that everyone wants all mechanical cameras since it keeps the demand/price down on what I think are the better ones! I like your slides by the way because sometimes tables are the only organized way of comparing features. Nice job. Now if I can just find the time to run a comparison between the FE2, Canon A-1, Minolta X-700 and Olympus OM-4T, I'll be a happy camper!
Thanks David! I do love the needle dial in the FE2 :) Currently using the FM2 for a change. Fair point on batteries. If it's only for the meter I don't mind.
Bought my first FM2 in 1990 and three more went through my hands over the years for reasons which summed up are the story of my life. But the camera I kept is the FE2. It is like the FM3a minus the Hype and inflated prices plus the "right" logo. I stay clear of the FE/FM as all of them I handled and owned since about 1995 had some kind of problem. If it has been serviced, it is probably ok but factor that in and their successors are still more refined on several accounts.
When I was a kid, my mother used to refer to me as "difficult". The older I've gotten, the more I wear that title as a badge of honor. I did not realize that the FM3a was so light. I prefer large, heavy cameras................preferably that offer aperture priority AND manual. So, for me I'll take the Nikon F3HP ALL day, EVERY day. The only 'downside' of the F3(HP) is that some of them are 40 year's old, and as I understand it, if/when the meter display goes, that's it (fortunately, all 4 of my F3's are working fine). And, I can't see carrying around an external meter for 35mm. Defeats the purpose of using the format. If I'm going to be slowed down by carrying an external meter I might as well shoot medium format. Yes, I know the F3 wasn't offered as a choice. Just me continuing to be "difficult".
Thanks, don't worry, you are 1 of a few recommending the F3! :) I did look at them after the video but I think I am a sucker for small light cameras. 40yrs doesn't worry me at all. Many of my most loved cameras are twice that age :) I think of 1930s-1950s as vintage, 70s/80s as last of the good ones (more manual and metal), 90s - modern film cameras! :) - In general terms.
I have an FM2 but hardly ever shoot analog anymore. What I always would've liked to have is a "lowest shutter speed lock". So, for example, you could set a notch on the shutter speed dial to 1/60 and then that would be the lowest it can go. This would make it much easier to set the preferred aperture, compose your picture, blindly turn the shutter speed dial until the light meter shows the circle and then take the picture. As it is now, you always have to check if your shutter speed isn't too low after you've adjusted it for metering. This would be all mechanical and pretty simple to achieve but I don't know if any mechanical SLR ever had this feature.
Nice idea! You can normally see your settings in the VF from memory so it should be easy to check before taking a shot. (I set my settings before taking photos so I never need to check)
Got an FM3a long time ago for $200 in perfect condition (guess I'm lucky). One thing I noticed between the series that I think worth mentioning is that the shutter speed dial in FE series seems a bit easier to turn (as long as you don't caught the A/Auto). While more firm and tactile feeling in the FM's are great, fiddling between shutter speed could felt like a chore compared to the FE series dial that are easier (and faster). Maybe just me nitpicking but the dial in FM3a feels heavy (compared to FE) and it could accidentally caught in A mode which is quite fiddly to turn back to manual mode (have to push the same button like the FE series) ...
22:50 - well, it's tough question. We have to rely on perfect eyesight. For perfect focus you perform triple focus/recompose dance and this dance is slow. First, you focus using split screen, then you recompose and rack focus ring back and forth, relying on what you're seeing on the focusing screen. Then you return to the split screen in the center to check if you're mistaken and the last time you recompose to double-check the focus and then fire the shutter. The bad thing about this method is that you have to know the shape of the field curvature of the lens you're using and these never come alongside MTF charts in user manuals. It's an invaluable information, IMO, but it's omitted in the manual. Some lenses have complex and weird shapes to their field curvatures, especially AF Nikkor 28-70 mm f3.5-4.5, which at 28 mm set at infinity at f/7.1 or f/8 has sharp center, unsharp round zone near the center, then sharp zone again and unsharp circle around it one more time, sharp left and right far sides and unsharp far corners (diagonal). It's weird. The wavy shape of the image field makes this lens unusable for landscapes or cityscapes, however the lens is sharp and nice at other settings. Hasselblads from H3 onwards have built-in AF correction for recomposing - it is called "True Focus". The lens is basically sending the information to the camera body on its angle of inclination at the set distance to the object and the camera makes the correction after setting composition you're after. In mirrorless, where everything is AF point, you don't need that at all. So, Matt... If you're willing to use one camera (FE or FM), it is good a idea to buy B-type focusing screen to perform focus by eye. But there's better solution. Sell all these cameras and buy F2AS and install the radical H-type screen (whole image field is covered in pyramids) - H3 to be precise, but it has a drawback of not giving you any information on DoF. Are you okay with losing DoF preview? This is the most accurate solution for Nikon film cameras and is wondrous for shooting in low light.
Thanks, excellent detail thank you! Yes I know of Hasselblad True Focus... personal I use edge of focus screen now. If not I would have a 4-focus dance as the model may not be standing completely still so I have to focus shoot fast. I am looking to maybe get the K3 screen. I need (must have) split prism for everything over 1 meter. On Hasselblad 500s I have 1 screen for up close (plain acute-matte d) and 1 split prism for more rare distant shots. I like the size and weight of these Nikon F cameras more than the "better" F2/F3 etc.
Always used Pentax mx's for 35mm film since the 70's but picked up a 2nd hand Fm3a a couple of years ago and really love it (and the ais lens range). Also used a 503cw for 120 film. Great video and you're great knowledge. Keep them coming :)
Thanks Richard, yes I’m happy with Nikon for SLR stuff. Good to hear you have a Hassy. I did a video last year on those, see the MF playlist if interested!
"Always used Pentax mx's" - That Pentax model is dynamite ! - HUGE viewfinder view, a wonderful LED meter, a robust shutter (made for 5 FPS motor drives) and all in THE MOST COMPACT SLR ! - I have 3 truly 'mint' FM3a units (being the last of the FE version chassis, it's considered collectable), one of them has a non-functioning ASA dial (moving the ASA doesn't change the meter sensitivity). As a technician for photographic cameras, I get many requests to 'fix' malfunctioning FM3a cameras...
You asked a question about focusing that I do not think was answered. What I do is to get the surrounding screen to the split finder in focus then do the final check/fine tuning with the split center. This quickens the focusing process for me.
hi Matt! great review! I'm trying to choose my first film camera and its hard. At first i just thought 'ill get the first one i see' and now i cant choose after exploring other cameras. My options are the Canon A1, Nikon FE2, Nikon FM2, Nikon FG, and Minolta x-700. From my options which would you choose for a starter? hope you can reply :)
Hi, I always try to reply. As first camera the Minoltas are cheap and can work well, Nikon FM2/FE2 much better built, do the same job but feel much more quality (i'd get one of those, either is fine, see Nikon review to see comparison), and I've not tried the other cameras.
to answer your question to the class haha, i shoot my FE2 with the grid screen and i honestly prefer it. i was finding the split image and micro prism to get "blurry" for me and i was getting shots back that i was missing focus. i started using my eye on the Matte part of the screen and double checking with the split image and micro prism instead of relying on it and i was starting to get sharper shots. i guess what im trying to say is that ive been in your shoes and you're on the right track!
Thanks Tony, in the video I was trying to stick to this line of bodies but yes see my F5 video for that, also great, and I hear others like their F3 too.
Great video. My 2 cents: if 1/1000 is enough for you and you don't need flash TTL, the FE does everything. Just bring some spare batteries (which are very cheap btw). The "reliability of the electronics" isn't a thing: the electronics of the FE simply won't break, or at least the probability is far inferior to the probability that the electronics of a digital camera stops working... Another story is close focusing at wide apertures (below f/2): you better keep your focus point in the center, where you can use the split screen, or recompose but not too much. Otherwise, use a camera with a reliable af module... At f/1.2 if you really want to recompose a tight portrait you should move your feet, in order to keep the focus plane intact: just moving the camera will move the focus point on a sphere, but lenses are designed to minimize field curvature, so those millimeters of discrepancy between the sphere and the plane of focus will easily be too much for the thin depth of field of a 50mm 1.2
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I own an FM3a. Incredible camera! The shutter is quite loud to be honest, but sometimes that's a bonus. The sound can be really pleasing once you get used to it.
Thanks Sean, I guess that fact is true of many great cameras! Thinking of the RZ78 from the top of my head for sound :)
All of this series are quite loud, very much so if you put a motor drive on them. I think the F80 is about the quietest Nikon I have heard.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom I own two brand new Nikon FM3As, which I have never used. I bought them in 2005 when Nikon announced their intention to dump the FM line. I also bought seven Nikkor manual focusing lenses at that time. I paid in the low-to-mid $600 range for each camera back then. A couple of days ago, I purchased an unused mint condition Nikkor 50mm f/1.4 lens from Japan. I plan to use this equipment for street photography. Matt, I do have a question: How do you prevent your film from getting fogged by airport X-ray machines? 🤔
@@chesslover8829 great planning getting those cameras back then. Carry film in hand luggage only and you’ll hehe no issues. (I put in clear bag).
@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom I did that 25 years ago, and my 400 speed film got fogged! 🤯😡 There was a time when airports would hand check film. Now they usually won't. Back in the day, Morley Bear took 80 8x10 double-film holders (about 45 kilograms including packaging) loaded with Kodak Super-XX film to Spain and had no difficulties. Nowadays, I would not advise that enterprise. Domke makes the 711-15B Large Filmguard Bag, which I will try on my next trip to Europe in December. It's not completely X-ray proof, but it allegedly reduces X-ray exposure.
Finding this video sitting in India on a trip. I am looking to buy my first film camera and trying to decide on one of these which is how I found your video. Thank you for the wealth of information Matt. Your passion and enthusiasm is palpable. I have never been so excited for a camera purchase. First video i've watched from you, but i can promise it's not my last. Subscribed, I can't wait for the journey.
Thank you, very kind ..and it’s cool to think how far and wide this video reaches 😅. ..if you like Nikon perhaps check out my Voigtlander for Nikon videos. Great lenses!
I loved seeing your perspective on this. Over the years, I've had an FM (I dropped it and damaged it beyond repair), then FM2, then FE2, then FM3a. Mercifully, when I bought these, the prices were much lower than what you described the current situation is.
Thanks Glenn! Good to hear you got them at a great price! My F4 bounced once, to my amazement!
I'm coming along later to the game (3 years!) and just checked prices on the FM3A. They're running in the $600US range. That is an interesting body because of the combination of features of the FE2 and FM2n.
I have the FM, FM2,FE,FE2,FA,F3 and numerous other Nikons but my original FE is my favourite.
Niceeeee! FE more then FE2? I like the extras on the FE2. Nice lineup though!
Why is the FE your favourite mamiyapress
@@robertmacmoneagle6917 It was my first Nikon and it is so easy to use, Aperture Priority and Manual, what more do you actually need, I have five.
@@robertmacmoneagle6917 Favourite Nikon.. it's not now, see today's video :)
Had the FE since the mid 90s, and im still in love with the green and black needle to know how off i am when i do lock exposure and rearrange my composition. Very swift to handle, without needing to fiddle for minutes :)
Cheers Tom, nice! Yes love the needle :)
Pro tip: apart from the FM3a the best of the lot could be the FA. It shares the same compact body, has various priority modes (not just aperture priority) and manual, max. shutter speed of 1/4000 sec., a titanium shutter, and was the first camera to introduce matrix metering.
Thanks, great tip regarding the FA and cheaper the FM3a!
"the FM3a the best of the lot" - "best of the lot could be the FA" - Sorry, but wrong on both counts. Far too complex as age sets in. - As a technician for photographic cameras, I get many requests to 'fix' malfunctioning FM3a & FA cameras. - The FE2, if folks can keep their fingers out of the thin titanium shutter blades, are EXTREMELY reliable ! - I own F3's, FM3a's FE2's, F2's, FA's among many others (now that I'm older, they're bargains to collect). My favorite Nikon film camera is the FE2...
@@y2ktube Thanks for you OPINION. I have owned an FA and an FE2 and while I get equally good results with both of them I personally prefer the FA. Your point about aging cameras is well taken, but all things being equal that wasn't part of my consideration. I simply prefer the FA a little bit over the FE2, but one can't go wrong with a functioning copy of either model.
I have the FE2 and FA . The bit I hate about the FA is there is no exposure lock. Both are superb cameras . The FA takes care of offcentre subjects with its matrix metering. Yes matrix metering.
@@desertdinghy9833 Well said. The FT3 is such a beautiful chunk of industrial design.
Back in the day I've been shooting FM2 for years; in my opinion, that's one of the best fully mechanical cameras ever made, period.
And as idiot as I am, I sold it, course I needed money for the autofocus camera for work.
Just so you know, there was two additional variants of FM2: in the early 90's Nikon had put the shutter of the F90 inside, I guess due to cost cuttings. No additional functions where added, and you can simply recognise it since it lacks typical honeycomb pattern on the shutter. Few months or a year later that same variant was also made in titanium, hence the name FM2/t.
Thanks, it sounds like I have the F90 shutter one as mine is the FM2n without honeycomb? Sorry you sold yours, hopefully you can get another.
I think the Nikon F2's are the mechanical beasts that will outlive all of us.
Thanks! I know the F2 has lots of fans.. and the F3!
I came here by way of your review of the Voigtlander lenses. I have a 27mm Ultron for my Fuji X-Mount cameras and it is a lovely little lens. I picked up a 20mm Skopar and 90mm Skopar early this year for a F2as that I bought. Now I'm thinking I need a 40mm and 58mm for the full frame cameras. ;)
You've convinced me to take the FA out for a walk and shoot some frames through it. I haven't shot it in ages. I need to be shooting film anyway.
You sure came away with some lovely frames from the models. Well done!
Oh yeah, I meant to mention that I always use the split-image for focusing. Then I recompose and shoot. That is how I learned a long (long) time ago. ;)
Thanks and great that you are shooting film again!
Learning on a film camera for the first time. My dads FM his father got from guiding a tourist in Iceland. This was the perfect video to break down all the features and what to think about. Will definitely come back to it. Didn't feel long at all, i was eating up all the info
Thank you! I think with any video, if you love the topic you can watch for days :)
I like to focus using the outer section of the screen while getting my head bit off by polar bears. I find not having to recompose easier, faster, and more accurate than using the split image on the center. This is also the reason why I tend to pick up my F3 more often than my M6. Blasphemy, I know 😱. Great video and info.
Thank you! Yes yes that is what I do too and for the same reason! ..and yes I feel bad too especially with my blog name ha! :)
thanks for the amazing comparison. I got an FE2 based on your video ... but i honestly really feel I wouldn't go wrong if I picked the FM2 since FE2 is better but a slight margin for my use. Shooting with it has been nothing short of amazing. Thanks once again !!! :)
Thanks! Both are great, I like the needle meter on the FE2 :)
Matt ,
Of all my interests and associated TH-cam videos… this one ranks way ahead.
Interesting,informative,to the point, nice touch of comedy and the biggest Wow is your photographic skills … mind blown 🤯
Tony
Thanks Tony! Very kind. Yes nice cameras for sure :)
I have the FE and I am very happy. The only thing I miss (sometimes but not to much) is higher speeds. The spot meter is perfect, if you know how to use
Thanks Pedro! Yes these are all great cameras :)
Hey Mat, thanks a million for another brilliant video. How come you didn't include the FA? do you have experience with it? Thanks! Elie
Thanks Elie! It was mostly an oversight as I only wanted to include lenses with the name FM/FE.. I've not used the FA either but I hear it is nice.
Tack Matt, du är väldigt didaktik och trevlig i dina presentationer som är mycket innehållsrika dessutom. Du ser ut som att du kommer direkt från en verkstad 😊 och mellan jobben fixade du videon.
Thanks Marcelo, can you translate? It won’t let me copy & paste! 😅
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Thank you Matt, you are very didactic and nice in your presentations which are very rich in content as well. You look like you came straight from a workshop 😊 and between jobs you fixed the video.
@@marcelocampoamor4761 thank you 🙏🏻 Yes I make videos when I can! I’ll have to sleep later haha :)
The FM was known as 'The Compact Nikon' on launch - the design remains a classic confirmed by Nikon attempting to incorporate 'echo's' into their latest APS C digital camera. And yes the earlier Nikkormat's weight a lot more and have a squared off design that handles less well. Enjoy your photography.
Thanks Michael. I’m
Still enjoying my F bodies even along side Leica iii/ M / R
Great video. I never knew too much about these Nikon's. I have 3 each of the F's, the F2's and Nikkormat's and they have all worked perfectly for 30 years now. I'll keep an eye out to try one of these.
Thanks.. I learnt about the FM3a in the making of this video but used to shoot digital Nikons so picked up the FM first as it was cheap I think! :) Nikon made some very realiable cameras.
The Nikon FE was my first camera when i was 22 years old, paired with the MD-12 motordrive and a bunch of good lenses. I used it for my first weddings and sports event. It never failed me whatsoever,. I bought a Hasselblad 500CM when i was more serious about better images for weddings and portrait. Unfortunately i sold all my stuff.when weddings were less a trend and digital photography took a large place. Worst move of my life lol. Just bought a few month ago a Nikon F2 and a FE with MD-12 because i like the grip it add and the fact that you dont need to bother with the winding knob open. You just press the release button half and the metering goes on then press it full and take the photo and advance the film. What i like is that i can fit all my lenses ai and non ai on these 2 cameras. plus my Nikon D7000 and D7200.. Nice comparison!!.
Thanks Richard, nice! Yes see my F4 / F5 videos for more automated Nikon F film bodies (and F80 / F100 vids)
Thank you again Matt for all your time and big effort making a very, very good presentation. RS
Thanks Richard! This long and older video continues to get views.
Great Video. I have the FM with 50mm f2 lens. I have taken many great pictures with it. Bought it used in the early 90's. Later I bought a modern Contax auto everything. So one very cold Boston night I took the Contax out to shoot night photos but the thing stopped working as it was to cold to operate! My friend had a Pentax K1 that worked perfectly. sold the Contax and still have the old reliable FM.
Great story thanks! There is a lot to be said for these older film cameras. The more manual the better for me! (Normally I use Leica III and Leica M but use Nikon too)
I know the Nikon FM2 was a super camera when I had one new. Great image as always, keep well keep save and be happy
Thanks John!
You missed out the AE lock function - push the self timer lever the other way 😉 I’ve had my FEs for years and only just discovered this!
Ah thank you! I never use that feature but good to know thanks!
again an amazing video, thank you.
I love my F2 with the DP1, the FM is also fantastic
Thank you very kind! I hoped people would like it as it took me more that 2 days to make. I need to do a shorter video next ha :) FM.. yes mine is well travelled! ..Not tried the F2 yet!..
me too!! F2 GANG GANG
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCompls no short videos. You are fantastic like that ! Best to you, Matt !
Great to hear the host pronounce the word "Nikon" as 'Knee Con' instead of most hosts in YT pronounce it as 'Nigh-Con'. My highest respect! 👍🙇🏻♂️
I own Nikon FM2N. It's a tough camera! 👍
Ha thanks Benny :) I get told off for not saying Ni-Kon so i'm glad you approve!
I'm sure you've moved your FE along by now, but as long as I'm watching the video again, I thought I'd ask! I'll have to check and see if you posted a vid on your favourite Nikkor lenses! Thanks!
Hi! Actually i'm always so busy I rarely find time to sell stuff so it's still in the same clean condition in a box with more cameras. If you're in the UK message me via MrLeica.com blog. Yes I did a Nikkor 50mm lenses video, search MrLeica Nikkor 50mm and you should find it.
Just found your page, what film were u using , and did you push the film to get that contrast…Thank u..James
Hi James, please see the blog post on MrLeica.com, search Nikon FE2 etc then click any photo to see original full res post with camera, lens, film info. I use a lot of different stocks and kit.
Very thorough review/ tutorial. I travelled all over the world with two Nikon FE. Based upon many years and miles together, I think that people put way too much emphasis on the possibility for the battery and electronics to fail. Oh and focusing off center... as you correctly observed, no need to center you subject to focus. This is one of the many strengths of an SLR. Am also wondering how you’re getting on with the kentmere films?
Thanks Brad! Yes I do love how tough these cameras are. As for Kentmere, see MrLeica.com review for 100 & 400 and see my early YT video on 400.. it links to the results in a blog post.
Thanks for all your work that went into this video! I just love my FM3a! And I guess chances are it will last longer than older models. But remember: The picture quality with film cameras depends on the lens (and the film/development and you), not the camera!
Thank you! FM3a, very nice! Agreed it's the lens and film that counts.
I think Matt mentioned that... but it cannot harm to send a reminder.
Hi Matt! Where's Nikkomat/Nikkormat? 😊😊... got a Nikkomat, F3, F4 (the tank) and a F100 ... 😊😊... on Digi side a D2sx...
You should try out the F100 with battery grip, filled with lithium batteries and the AIs lenses...😍
Besides: I recompose..
Recompose.. thanks! .. F100 ..did you see the teaser at the start!? ;) It will come! F4.. great camera! it will come! :) Not tried the others yet! .thanks about lithium batteries.. someone else tell me this.
These are some of my all time favorite cameras!
The FM and FM2, and FM2n.
I'm not much for "Autoexsposure". But when I do use it, I prefer shutter priority mode.
I find it just great that so many young people are beginning to rekindle the flame of film Photography!
From it's crude beginnings in the 1830's to the pinnacle of it's development in the 1980's and 90's, it's still a fantastic bit of technology! I hope that, sooner rather then later, the market will see the introduction of "New" film cameras!
Thanks Robin! Yes me too regarding a new film camera. It seems a no brainer / good money maker.
Timelessness video, helped me a lot. It’s good to see that you are not just an gearhead but a talented photographer!
Thanks Pavel! Yes I definitely feel more of a photographer than a youtuber! :)
I wish my F3 had the FE match needle arrangement. Such a pleasing way to expose.
Yes! I love the FE/FE2 needle
Hello, I started macro with an FE, and switched to E screen for comfort. Also added the large rubber eyecap. The only issue with the camera, which I bought new in 1982, has been a sticky mirror on Bulb, and changing the foam on the back.
Note that the FE will correctly meter at well over 1 sec, I have had good slide exposure at 30 secs!
Love these cameras, thanks for posting 😎
Thanks Bruce, nice! Old video so great to see it's still getting some views. I use the FM3a currently. Video still to come!
I had a bunch of Nikon FM2s for 20 years. VERY trustworthy.
Thanks yes I will keep mine even though I use rangefinders more. Nice cameras!
I have FM,FE,FM2N,FE2 ... to be honest just be patient and check your local classifieds. The best one is the one you have on you, if you pay $50 for a camera and lens your more likely to carry it with you every where. I would be nervous bringing a FM3A to the beach just because of expense. One thing to mention too though is prices for Nikon glass have been going up and up. Makes it a little hard to recommend Nikon tbh. But my favorite is probably FE2 , 1000s shutter speed is not great for wide open in the day time. 4000 just leaves more options open.
Thanks, good to hear you use them all and enjoy the FE2 too. I've had all my Nikon glass quite a while as I shot digital Nikon (D800 etc). The 85/1.4D seems to have held it's value well. (More Nikon vids coming..as I decide what works for me!) ..hopefully another useful video in the pipeline, just waiting on a body to arrive.
I have an FM and FE, I bought 3 years ago. I also have an F3 I’ve had for 24 years. I love the F3 but I like the lighter weight of my FM,FE combo. I often go out with the two of them with different prime lenses mounted on each. I’d like to get an FE2 sometime but I got a really good price on my two earlier bodies and didn’t give up much on each vs the 2 versions. While I like to shoot aperture priority, I actually find myself preferring the FM slightly. I like the feel of the transport and sound of the mechanical shutter. As Matt pointed out, another advantage of the early FM,FE bodies as well as the F3 is you can use pre AI lenses which opens up more options when shopping the used lens market
Thanks Eric! I enjoy the small bodies too. FM2 is the lightest.
Thanks Matt, quite a comprehensive review in record time. As for your focusing question I have had Nikons since my first used Nikkormat which I got with my first money on my first year of college... a long time ago! Since then I have used every analog Nikon except for the F6 (I already had an F4S and did not see what, at the time, the F5 or F6 brought to the table that I would use although I finally swapped it for an F5). The way I focused for close-up subjects was by moving the split image over my subject, focusing, and then reframing.
Although you did not mention it, you could have added the F3 to your list. Granted it was the top of the shelf at the time (and people may expect it to be more expensive than any camera on your list, which is not the case anymore) and its sync/mechanical speed (1/90 s) is rather low compared to the various FMs and FEs but it was one of the smoothest caneras I have ever used. It is and feels solid and its advance-film mechanism is probably the best ever made. Price-wise it is cheaper than an FM3A (fortunately I got mine used before the prices went crazy). Usually it goes for the same price as the FM2 with a far more elaborate motor-drive, interchangeable prisms, solid body... but, agreed, it is a FE type Nikon, meaning its shutter is electronic and its only mechanical shutter speed is 1/90. However unless I definitely need a completely mechanical Nikon, it is still the one I love to use for film.
Thanks Bruno and for the F3 great insight. I since bought a Nikkormat but i''ve still not had a chance to use it.
Another great video, I have several Nikon SLR cameras. I don’t have any of the FM or FE.. I do have the Nikon F, Nikon F3, Nikon F100 and Nikon FA. Really like shooting the Nikon FA. It has the matrix metering and shutter speed of 1/4000. It’s a little lighter than my Leica M3 and you can pick them up at a great price. Take a look at the Nikon FA if you get a chance.
Thanks Daniel! Please don't tell me the FA is good.. I can't buy more haha.. OK I check it! :) F100 to come too! :)
I started out with the FM2n and then the FE2, both with the added K2 screen. I liked them both, but preferred the feel of the FE2.
At the time, I needed glasses... but didn't know it until years later. Didn't know about the diopters until much later.
Mostly relied on the split screen, but did use the microprism band.
Both have the MD-12 motor drive.
The technology changed, family happened & stopped photography for around 20 years.
I wasn't going to give up on my glass. Just started up again with a Df and a D7000.
Wasn't going to go the Z-mount route.
Nice! Yes I do like the FE2. I use the split prism to focus as a RF guy. Great you’re getting back into it.
I had a nikon fm2n i sold it and recently bought a nikon fm3a and i love it
Great, if I see one cheap I might be tempted!
You also missed the FA, which was called FE3 at the production phase. Then the Nikon people changed it to FA for an unknown reason.
Thanks, yes sorry I tried to keep to only FM/FE bodies but I didn't know this was the "FE3" so thank you!
The matrix metter wasn't ready in time for the FE-2, so they launched that camera with a center weight metter. Shortly after they introduced the FA at more expensive price, so they kept the FE-2 and to keep selling it well they changed the name FE-3 to FA.
Another detail was that the FA was intended to compete with the longstanding Canon A-1, though Nikon probably didn't worry much about what Canon was doing in that time.
In technology, the FA is by far the most advanced, though certainly not as robust as the FM series cameras. To keep the weight in check, Nikon also used carbon fiber top and bottom covers for the FA.
Though, maybe the gold plated FA uses metal covers, I don't know.
The Pentax MX is far superior to the FM. It has far bigger 0.95x prism, interchangeable focus screens, it has full stop and half stops LEDs, exposure can be seen much clearer than in the FE and maybe it can't be seen in the finder of the FM/FM-2, and it had motor drive, and 250 exposures cartridge options, it's smaller and around 20% lighter while sacrificing nothing in quality, and has very small and beautiful Pentax-M lenses, and it's lenses have SMC coating developed with assistance from Zeiss that gives better contrast.
Not all the better MX features over the FM are much used, but some are, overall it's a much better experience. The FM-2 bought 1/4000s and flash synch 1/250s so it's not clear cut which one is better.
@@TheGreatLoco thank you! Really nice information. I think the FE2 is still my fav of the 4 I show here though I actually like the FG-20 for a super lightweight option. I just discovered Leica R cameras (see recent videos and the next one I will post). I will show Nikon vs Leica too and some thoughts.
@@TheGreatLoco At that time, Nikon called it AMP Automatic Multi Pattern/s. Matrix camed later.
If there is any reliable source for this story that AMP-was planned for the FE2 I would be interested to hear it. I doubt any exists. As FM2, FE2 and FA followed very close to each other and at the time the FA was seen as Nikon's version of the automatic SLR like Minolta's XD-7, Canon's A-1 Pentax' Super A which were highly successful. Nikon simply had to bring something extra because they were late to party and they added Automatic aperture with AIs-lenses (which was a much bigger change!) together with AMP-metering to their midrange lineup. In Germnay the three cameras were marketed together as "The Mechanic (FM2), the Electronic (FE2), the Computer (FA)". None of them was vere seen as some kind of stop-gap solution, in fact they were the most consistent lineup available at the time.
This is the second time I watched this informative video. Excellent!
Thanks Henry! :)
Well, I'm not professional, just an enthusiast but i have the same problem when i practice with my DSLR with objects (toys, ornaments, etc. Not models 😞) and the answer to your question would be...don't panning the camera to recompose, you just make a travelling horizontal or lateral with your body or take a step to the side to recompose (trucking shot technique like a "moonrise kingdom" camp scene). With a Nikon SLR camera, as i read in a post, you can bend the film a little to match the curvature of the lens but I don't know if that works.
I hope I have not misheard or misunderstood your question.
Thanks Roberto, no that’s great thank you. I tend to compose and focus after now with a SLR (and focus with edge of screen if needed). What you say makes sense so thanks.
Seeing your comment again, you can go to a studio open day or organized workshop like I do if you want to try shooting with models.
Had an FE for decades, it still shoots nicely. For auto focus i use an F90. and for digital a D810.
For rough conditions i use a nikonos 5 and an olympus TG6. The current nikon waterproof offerings are not much snuff.
I've often thought about getting an FM just to complete the set.
As for focusing, i have no hard and fast rule. i used the normal screen, sometimes split, sometimes hex, sometimes ground glass outside.
There is no one best way, so learn to use all ways and choose the one that suits you best for the situation.
When i shoot large format i used a lupe on the ground glass.
if you think focusing an FE is fun try a Nikonos.
Thanks Michael! I do show the mighty Nikonos camera in one auction video. It’s a beast!
Fantastic video, and the pics are even better somehow! Just won an FM2 with a few lenses and a film drive and I can't wait to get it in hand.
Thanks Duane! Wow what an awesome prize!! Congrats mate. You will love it!
One important thing Matt pointed out is that you should take into account that the eletronics in some cameras may fail. I acquired three Nikon cameras whose eletronics failed: a Nikon FA and an F3HP that were both deemed useless beyond repair and a Nikon FG that has very well known glitches that cause you to loose 3-4 frames. That is why I acquired an FM2(n). It is 100% mechanical, robust and built for rugged use. If its electronics fail, you will only loose the meter. No problem, go Sunny 16 or use a hand lightmeter. I have other SLRs that depend on their eletronics to work such as the Yashica FX-d Quartz, Canon T70 , Canon AE Program and Canon EOS 3000n. None of them have had any glitches so far. Only Nikon cameras did. Do not take me wrong, I have two Nikon DSLRs, i.e. D7000 and D7200 and so far they have worked flawlessly, and best of all, they are 100% compatible with my Nikkor analog lenses.
Yes electronic cameras always worry me a bit so full manual is the ideal. I was using my FM2 this week! (With mechanical Leicas)
What a combination: Nikon + Leica!! I also a Nikon Nikomat and a Nikormat FTn. I regard them as a transition from rangefinder to slr. @@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom
You make great videos, Matt! I'm getting back into photography and these videos are very helpful. Took photography in the mid 80's high school, using my dad's old Praktica FX2. I bought a Canon AE1 in the late 80s, and then the original Canon EOS Rebel S (1990) for the first Gulf War. I have no idea where those cameras ended up, but kinda wish I still had them. Own several Nikon DSLRs now, but just bought a Nikon FM2 on eBay for $250. I hear film photography is heating back up in 2022 so I figured I better get a film camera before they get too spendy again. Boy hasn't film gone up in price? Like $30 a roll!
Next purchase will be a good Nikon F5 so I have the range of fully manual and fully automatic film cameras.
One of these days I'll dabble in the Leica range as well.
Hi Willy, thanks and thanks for your back story. Great to hear you picked up a FM2. Yes the F5 is a tank, see that video. (and let me know when you get a Leica!)
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom No Leica yet, but my F5 arrived today. I'm so stoked!
@@willywinket Enjoy!
Really comprehensive, thanks. What lenses did you use for the last shots please? What it the Voigtlander 40m f2?
Thanks Dominic, sorry for my late reply. Yes 40mm from memory (Search my blog or Flickr and you will find same images with camera/ lens details).
I really like having 2 FM2ns for Northern Lights photography because you can have 72 shots without changing film. It also allows you to do stereo photography with a split shutter release.
Thanks John, perfect setup for your needs!
I have been thinking about this group. How about the Nikon FA? Is it no good? Seems to cost in the FM FE range. Doesn't it belong in this group? Just wondering why, with all its features, it isn't more popular. I do understand that you have to draw the line somewhere. I really enjoy your Nikon videos. Especially how you show the viewfinder. Brilliant! Thanks!
Thanks, yes TBH I should have mentioned the FA too but at the time I was trying to limit myself to models with FM and FE in the name. Many people like the FA.
For those who still prefer film cameras. Of the cameras reviewed. FM3a is probably the best mechanical Nikon camera. Through technology progress, the improvement through the chain of Nikon cameras were, shutter speed (from 1/1000th sec to 1/4000th sec, shutter material/construction (titanium), light metering (center-weighted in most models, average metering, matrix metering (select-able in FA). Spot, center-weighted, Average 1st started in F4). FM3a was launched in 2001. FA (electronic) in 1983, F3 in 1980-82. Latest model has more features and higher shutter speed, Only FA has 4 different operation modes (M, P, A & S), FM3a has TTL. Early FA were ill-fated due to unreliable electronics. FA model has GOLD plated body version.
Yes it’s nice for sure! I did buy one eventually. I’ll make a video when I can.
Planning to buy FM2 titan,
How do i know how many stops over or under exposed am i?
Great video, keel it up!
Nice! The camera meter will tell you. It will show current settings and what the settings should be based on the meter
Hi Matt, great video as always, I just picked up a Nikon F3 and a Canon A1 and look forward to playing with these two! Any film recommendations, both color and B&W? Thanks
Thanks Ron! I like Fomapan 100 for cheap and TMax 400 for best
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom thanks for the information Matt!
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom thanks so much Matt!
Hey Matt,
What camera Lens would you compare with the nikkor " Noct" nikkor Lens? Love your channel 👍🇺🇸
Hey Ryan, ah tricky as i've never used that lens. I have the Nikkor 1.2 AIS but the gem I found recently is the Nikkor 50mm f2 AI - see the 50mm shootout video. (not the "Fast 50mm" video)
April of 2022 FM3A are going for $1000 on Ebay. My very first camera was an FM. I have owned an FE2 and I still own an FM3A. I also own an F4 and a Bronica SQ-A. I also have several DSLR's
Thanks for price update Michael. Yes all prices have gone a bit crazy sadly.
Great review of these Nikon cameras. I like the comparative aspect of this review. Especially I like the ability to see the viewfinders and what information is obtained through looking at them. Something that can make or break a deal. Thanks!
Thanks Peter!
12:05 I have FM2 with bulb synchro time 1/125. It means that this parameter changed from 1/125 by 1/200 to 1/250. My body was reviewed by Nikon service and they said that the real bulb synchro time is 1/250 ;-) And it works!
FM3a has a hybrid shutter: if the battery is present and in good condition the shutter is controlled electronically, when the battery is exhausted or not present the shutter is controlled mechanically.
Thank you, and very cool about the 1/250 time. I recently got the FM3a as a "new" film camera to use when other cameras die (such as my favourite FE2!)
Some info I think you missed:
1) there were 3 versions of the Nikon FM.
a) 1st: “3 knurl” version. The rings around the shutter speed dial, the shutter button and the rewind knob are all knurled.
b) 2nd: “2 knurl” version. The rings around the shutter button and the shutter speed dial are knurled. The rewind button is smooth.
C) 3rd: (latest): “1 knurl” version. Only the shutter speed dial is knurled. Nikon also updated the mechanical innards AND also made the prism interchangeable.
This one is the best one in terms of reliability and sells for more on eBay when the seller knows what version they have. I’ve found most of the time the seller
seems unaware as all three versions often sell for the same average price.
2) The Nikon FM has a Gallium Photodiode light meter. While this meter is more advanced than the Cadmium Sulphide (CdS) light meter of most cameras at the time, it’s not near as accurate and reliable as the Silicon Photodiode light meters of all Nikon Cameras that succeeded the FM. As a side note: the FM was the only Nikon camera made with the Gallium Photodiode light meter, the previous ones were all Cadmium Sulphide.
Hi Alex, thanks! You are the first viewer to ever mention the 3 versions and about the meter so thanks for sharing this great info.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom you’re welcome!
Had a Nikkormat way back when, took great photos. Got an FM a while ago when rediscovering the beauty of film...great camera.
Thanks Francisco! I bought a Nikkormat to play with but haven't had time as yet. I was using a Nikon FM2 in Poland last week. They are all great cameras!
Great video! Very informative and I love your photos! :D
Thank you Matthias!
Love the brassing on the FM! I've lusted over the FM3A for a long time but never pulled the trigger. haha!
Thanks Mike! Yes I bought it as a beater back in 2012 for £100 with lens :) Yes the FM3a does seem to tick the boxes doesn't it! :)
I’ve bought and used several FM2s, a couple of FEs and FE2s and FM3As (as well as a few Nikon F3s); and I still use and shoot with an FE2, FM3A and an F3. In my experience, especially if you tend to use them in ‘manual mode’, there’s not much between them (the F3 aside which was a professional model anyway): they all use the same 35mm film and all share basically the same lenses. For me personally though, I find the Nikon FE2 the most enjoyable to use (and fitted with an FM3a focusing screen it performs exactly the same as the FM3A … so long as the electronics and/or battery don’t die on you! My FE2 though, despite being roughly 40 years old is still working perfectly and going strong!
Thanks Nigel, I enjoy the FE2 the most too!
Good evening Matt. Great to see such a Wonderful video on such Lovely Cameras! I have The FM2N and love it. Also, the F3HP which is Beast of a Camera. With regards to the FE ,I was recently given one the only problem is that the Light Seals on it need replacing. Preety certain I can do that but, at some point some of the Black seal has stuck to The Mirror? Do you advise me to try using lighter fuel to soften the Black seal which is on The Mirror? Great to see such a Wonderful line up of Classic Nikons. Many thanks and Kind regards Colyn R.S.V.P.
Thanks Colyn! I'm afraid i'm not really a camera repair guy type and lack such skills! I tend to send cameras for repair if I need to fix something. Maybe Google your query as i'm sure someone with know the answer. I hope you get an answer but what you say makes sense so you can try it and it shouldn't damage anything.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Many thanks for your Kind message Matt. To be honest, neither am I. Still I appreciate Your advice. Keep up Your Good work and of course Your great videos. Stay safe and sound. P.s. Lovely Photos, also I would stick with The FM2N. Split Screen for me. Thanks again. Many thanks and Kind regards Colyn.
@@colynbarrett8127 no problem, yes I will go back to my trusty FM2N too I think for trips, but it’s nice to know I’ve tried some of the alternatives and already have the best - ie. split screen nicely made manual focus cameras :)
Wonderful video. Thank you. RS
I still "exercise" my Nikon FE2 and F3. The FE2 is wonderfully light yet rugged, although I slowly allowed the superb F3 to eclipse it. The F3 is smallish and one of the most reliable cameras ever made (imo), Its very long production run says a great deal about it.
Thanks Alexander.. i'venot tried the F3 yet.. I have the F4. Agreed the FE2 is solid and I like the size/ weight.
I have the Nikon F3, but I like the Canon F1 New a lot more !
Well done Matt! 1st off, for manual focus, for me it's instinct to focus 1st, expose and compose then check focus if I feel I or they moved, especially oif up close to 1/2m., using a 2/3 is multiple subjetcs in different ranges. I grew up in single point AFR so use back focus to lock in and continue. Till this day, I instinctively do this on modern 51+ AF before I remember my AF stick move.
Thanks! Thanks roughly how I shoot too with these Nikons
Great video! I can see how much prep you put into making your videos, and you consistently do a great job. This one is especially thorough. I have a Nikon FM2n, and it seems like a great camera, although I haven’t had it long. I don’t like the split image focusing aid, so I use the microprism in the collar surrounding the split image. I’d like to know which lenses you prefer, since I only have one so far, the 50mm f/1.4 Ai. I’m thinking of an 85mm f/2 AiS.
Hi Larry thank you! I assumed this was a comment from my recent videos where I am going the extra 10 miles to make them as watchable as I can. This is details but much longer and more like my older video format. I appreciate you kind words. Hmm lenses is a huge topic for these. I offer Zoom calls if you want to get youself setup with lenses for your FM2. Bring a pen and notebook as the conversation will be very info heavy and I can reel offer lots of good lenses to consider in different FL. mrleica.com/zoom/
Hi Matt
According to repairers FE2 is very reliable they rarely see it, but they often have to repair FM3A shutter
Wow I’ve never seen this. I got a FM3a as a backup for my FE2 in case it died.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom fm3a has a complex hybrid shutter, complexity means more prone to failure
F3's backup was the FM
Fab videos matt. Ive owned every Nikon SLR. Best for me is the original F and F2. Big love for another artist photograher 😎
Thanks David! Much appreciated :)
I was so into photography that my dad got me an FE for my 12 birthday to stop driving him nuts. Quite a gift in those days at that age. Later I added an FA. I still have them and occasionally use them. I also love the 50 mm 1,4 and not to forget the fab MD-12 film drive and grip. Try the FA!
Thanks Andreas! Ok I’ll put the FA on my list. My next video is on this video topic so stay tuned! :)
Seen this vid of you from last year. Matt, just brilliant, absolutely. I have the FE2 since mid 80ties and finally learn some features.. haha.. buy the motor drive. I have it, and it's a hammer clonk the sound when shooting. Big fun.. keep going. thx jack.
Thanks Jack! Much appreciated. I have a motor drive in my FG20 video, again a fun sound :) I like too!
Great review Matt! I am still a bit confused about what to buy but at least I know the difference between those models. I think that Nikon FM will be the most likely pick.
Thanks Helgi, I would say if you dont't need auto mode the FM offer excellent value.
If you decide to sell your FM2N, I would love to buy it from you! Great video, very informative! 👍🏼
Thanks OK 👍🏻
I've been shooting Nikons for over 20 years, and I've had dozens of them including a couple FEs, an FE2, two F3s, an F4, and literally too many F2s to count. I've had problems with all of them at some point or another...except for my FM2n. I've had it for 21 years, I've shot hundreds of rolls of film with it, and it has never failed me once. Hell, I've only had to replace the batteries once. And really, the +0- light meter is much more accurate than people think. 0 is correct exposure, +0 is 1/3 stop overexposed, 0- is 1/3 stop underexposed, and just a + or - is over or underexposed by 2/3 stop or more. The only bad pictures I've taken with it have been my fault, not the camera's. I really like the F2AS and the F4, but if I could only have one camera, it'd be an FM2n.
Thanks Thomas, many say the F3 is the best so nice to hear your feedback! I like the FE2 needle meter, fg-20 size, fm2n too, use FM/FE less now. Not used F4/F5 for a while but will use when eyesight gets worse!
A joy to see your uploads must say really like the fm2 and fe2 though when seeing this one I’m also considering an Nikon fm3a
Thanks Alexander! yes all great cameras and don't rule out a budget Nikkor FG-20 too! :) I just bought a second one! (See that video)
I have the Nikon FM and FE (1 FM, 2 FE and 2 F3), I love the FM because it is all manual and mecanical, if batteries run out you can still shoot ! The lightmeter in the viewfinder of the FM are very simple and easy to use, but I like the system in the FE a lot more more because of the 2 needles, you can see how far the reading are from the shutter speed selected, the llight meter in the F3 sucks, so I most often grapped FE to shoot with in fast situations, but with a bit more time to shoot I use a seperate lightmeter and set shutter speed and aperture at least every 5 minutes or when the light changes.
BUT, I think that my two Canon New F1 are the best ever made analog cameras ever made ! Second (shared) are Leicaflex SL2 (origial analog version) and Nikon F2, third must be Contax RTS.
Canon New F1 en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_New_F-1
Leicaflex SL2 en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leicaflex_/_SL_/_SL2#Leicaflex_SL2
Nikon F2 en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikon_F2
Contax RTS camerapedia.fandom.com/wiki/Contax_RTS
Nikon FM mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm/index.htm
Nikon FM mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfeseries/fe/index.htm
Hi JC, sorry I missed this. Yes I like the FE/FE2 meter too. I recently got a Leicaflex SL but not the 2. I wanted the more simple version. Agreed, really really nice cameras! Build is fantastic! Thanks for all the links and for the others mentioned!
What a fantastic video. A great mix of technical information and superb photographs and excellent delivery. I think the only detail that may have been missing was that when you use a non AI lens (FM or FE), you focus at the aperture you want to use, but you then press the depth of field preview to stop the lens down and meter in stop down mode. I have an FM for 35mm and a D300 for digital. I only use Nikon manual focus lenses. I prefer the FM diode metering simply because it's easy to use in lower light conditions and I think it's a slightly more robust system compared to the needle metering. Congratulations on a fab video Matt. I'll have to check your other videos.
Thank you Simon! Great tip on metering.. I think most of my lenses are AIS so i've never needed to do anything 'special' but noted thanks! Yes I post 2 videos each week so 150+ shared so far :)
To answer your question about method of focusing...it depends upon what composition I'm looking for, but if I'm doing street photography or expect to have to rapidly compose a shot so as not to miss the moment, I'll use aperture priority mode and set my aperture to f8...it's got a very wide depth of field range (especially when using wide angle lenses) and exposure latitude in regard to acceptable shutter speeds. The wide depth of field allows me to quickly "rough focus" using the background matte portion of the focusing screen, with good confidence the subject will be in sharp focus, and with confidence the shutter speed will be high enough to prevent blurring.
My favorite for all around shooting is either my FA (great shutter release and versatility), or my F3P (built like a tank,) but I recently went hiking and ran a couple rolls through my FM2 with great results.
Regarding electronic shutters over mechanical shutters, the original argument came from pros that didn't trust the reliability of electronic shutters and lamented about the "disastrous" consequences of batteries going dead in the field...it was all hogwash. How much space/weight in your kit does a fresh set of batteries require to protect against that? Mechanical shutters also need to be speed calibrated regularly to remain accurate (generally speaking) as compared to electronic shutters. As far a the batteries themselves, don''t use the alkaline LR44 if you can instead find silver oxide SR44 batteries. They last (significantly) longer than alkalines, maintain their terminal voltage constant longer, and don't ever leak into your battery compartment and corrode your battery terminals.
Thank you and great tip regarding batteries!
..I tend to zone focus all cameras now for f8 shots. I got used to this using my 1931 Leica Standard that has no built in RF.
Happy to trade my FE2 standard screen for your grid screen!
We can do that. Remind me where you live? Within Europe?
Very good video Matt. Well done with the details!
I don't shoot the SLR types. I am only interested in the range finder style, but I did (as always) enjoy the video.
End of class - 😀😀😀
Thanks I really appreciate you watching this as a rangefinder guy. I promise I will reward you with a rangefinder type video soon! (You know they are my favourites!) :)
The entire FM/FE family of cameras are great..I have an FM which I purchased new in 1980. The FM while being a 'downsized' and 'streamlined' version of Nikon's mechanical 35mm SLR line at the time; carries on the tradition of excellent build quality and durability that Nikon was legendary for at the time. I have an F, Nikkormat FT2, and FG the FM is my favorite. Mine still operates like new only thing done to it since I purchased it was have new light seals and mirror box foam installed. The LED diode exposure indicators in the viewfinder make exposure adjustments quick and easy and the meter light sensors are very sensitive.
Thanks Thomas! Yes i'm a big fan of these cameras. I still use the alongside my Leicas and other film cameras :) See my FG-20 video if you missed it!
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Yeah I'm aware of the FG-20: at the time I was shopping for a camera for my wife I chose the FG instead due to it's multiple metering options and TTL flash metering capability..she took many excellent photos with her FG..won a couple of photo contests with it. Not quite the build quality of the traditional Nikon 'mechanical' SLR's but a nifty camera nonetheless. She passed away I gave her FG to my granddaughter so it's still in the family but I missed it so much I found another one in excellent condition so I have one in my collection.
@@thomasmoje5926 ah great back story, thanks!
I used to prefer split screen viewfinders, but I increasingly thought the split screen circle in the middle was actually just annoying for shots like the ones you describe. I hardly ever focus on anything in the middle, so I think I'm starting to prefer regular focusing screens without the split. It looks less cluttered and makes it easier to compose imo.
I have an FE, but I want an FM :-)
I 'need' the split screen for my eye sight but yes I use a plain screen on the Hasselblads for close ups for the reason you mention.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Well I wish the Hasselblad 500 series had better split-screens, as good as Nikon's!
Matt, I'm kind of like you in that I don't like to have an older camera where parts are hard to come by as well as repairs that can't be completed because the replacement parts are no longer available. So, I stay away from cameras that depend on the electronics to work. I'm also not an aperture priority guy so that feature is lost on me. So, in this mid range, I've ended up with a FM2n that I picked up from a local camera repair shop and then I got a good price on a FM2/T. Nice light weight and small. Reminds me of my beginnings when I had two Nikon F's which, by the way, are still in use. I keep them because I have a small battery of pre Ai lenses which I will probably never sell. I like the way they render photos.
Thanks, nice yes I like the more simple less electronic cameras too!
I have had Nikon film bodies for a while now and really like each of them for what they do (F2, F3, FA, F100, F5), but after watching this video a couple of times (plus a few others) I decided to pull the trigger on an FE2. Of my manual film bodies I would have to say my FA was my favorite but that changed after I shot the FE2. There is something about the FE2 that just make it seem complete. The plastic prism housing on the FA was always a turn off for me but I did not realize how much until the FE2. Now I started out decades ago shooting sunny/F16 style, have used several different hand held light meters, and used varying levels of automation for exposure. Manual shooting has its place but I prefer aperture priority mostly, so if the batteries die then I will probably stop shooting until I can fix (replace batteries) the camera. My opinion is the need to shoot with out electronics and "reliance" on batteries is over hyped. What do you do if you are shooting digital? You bring back up batteries! And with these manual focus cameras we are talking about a pair of LR44's! Even going to the North Pole or the Amazon or Sahara Desert, I am pretty sure a few extra LR44's will not force you to leave your canteen behind! Besides, if I am that desperate, I can bring my Nikon S2 rangefinder as backup. Anyway, I should be grateful that everyone wants all mechanical cameras since it keeps the demand/price down on what I think are the better ones! I like your slides by the way because sometimes tables are the only organized way of comparing features. Nice job. Now if I can just find the time to run a comparison between the FE2, Canon A-1, Minolta X-700 and Olympus OM-4T, I'll be a happy camper!
Thanks David! I do love the needle dial in the FE2 :) Currently using the FM2 for a change. Fair point on batteries. If it's only for the meter I don't mind.
Bought my first FM2 in 1990 and three more went through my hands over the years for reasons which summed up are the story of my life. But the camera I kept is the FE2. It is like the FM3a minus the Hype and inflated prices plus the "right" logo. I stay clear of the FE/FM as all of them I handled and owned since about 1995 had some kind of problem. If it has been serviced, it is probably ok but factor that in and their successors are still more refined on several accounts.
Thanks, yes I love the FE2 too!
When I was a kid, my mother used to refer to me as "difficult". The older I've gotten, the more I wear that title as a badge of honor. I did not realize that the FM3a was so light. I prefer large, heavy cameras................preferably that offer aperture priority AND manual. So, for me I'll take the Nikon F3HP ALL day, EVERY day. The only 'downside' of the F3(HP) is that some of them are 40 year's old, and as I understand it, if/when the meter display goes, that's it (fortunately, all 4 of my F3's are working fine). And, I can't see carrying around an external meter for 35mm. Defeats the purpose of using the format. If I'm going to be slowed down by carrying an external meter I might as well shoot medium format.
Yes, I know the F3 wasn't offered as a choice. Just me continuing to be "difficult".
Thanks, don't worry, you are 1 of a few recommending the F3! :) I did look at them after the video but I think I am a sucker for small light cameras. 40yrs doesn't worry me at all. Many of my most loved cameras are twice that age :) I think of 1930s-1950s as vintage, 70s/80s as last of the good ones (more manual and metal), 90s - modern film cameras! :) - In general terms.
I have an FM2 but hardly ever shoot analog anymore. What I always would've liked to have is a "lowest shutter speed lock". So, for example, you could set a notch on the shutter speed dial to 1/60 and then that would be the lowest it can go. This would make it much easier to set the preferred aperture, compose your picture, blindly turn the shutter speed dial until the light meter shows the circle and then take the picture. As it is now, you always have to check if your shutter speed isn't too low after you've adjusted it for metering. This would be all mechanical and pretty simple to achieve but I don't know if any mechanical SLR ever had this feature.
Nice idea! You can normally see your settings in the VF from memory so it should be easy to check before taking a shot. (I set my settings before taking photos so I never need to check)
Got an FM3a long time ago for $200 in perfect condition (guess I'm lucky). One thing I noticed between the series that I think worth mentioning is that the shutter speed dial in FE series seems a bit easier to turn (as long as you don't caught the A/Auto). While more firm and tactile feeling in the FM's are great, fiddling between shutter speed could felt like a chore compared to the FE series dial that are easier (and faster). Maybe just me nitpicking but the dial in FM3a feels heavy (compared to FE) and it could accidentally caught in A mode which is quite fiddly to turn back to manual mode (have to push the same button like the FE series) ...
Thanks for sharing. I will have to check my dials now to see how they compare! :)
Can’t wait for you to do the review for Nikon F100!
Thanks Calvin! Did you see my little teaser at the start! :)
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom yeah I do.
@@calvinwu3861 I covered the F100 logo to keep some people guessing :)
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom I know F100 very much, so that doesn’t work for me. Lol
@@calvinwu3861 I tried ha :)
I switched to Canon when they went to alto focus, used Nikon in the begin of my photography!
Never to
Never too late to go back! :)
I have FG-20, FG, FM2n, F, F2 (x2), F3 HP (x2), Nikomats FT / FTn / FT2, Nikonos V. Love all of them😊
Nice! See my other videos, I've reviewed some of these and still need to do a FM3a video!
22:50 - well, it's tough question.
We have to rely on perfect eyesight. For perfect focus you perform triple focus/recompose dance and this dance is slow. First, you focus using split screen, then you recompose and rack focus ring back and forth, relying on what you're seeing on the focusing screen. Then you return to the split screen in the center to check if you're mistaken and the last time you recompose to double-check the focus and then fire the shutter. The bad thing about this method is that you have to know the shape of the field curvature of the lens you're using and these never come alongside MTF charts in user manuals. It's an invaluable information, IMO, but it's omitted in the manual. Some lenses have complex and weird shapes to their field curvatures, especially AF Nikkor 28-70 mm f3.5-4.5, which at 28 mm set at infinity at f/7.1 or f/8 has sharp center, unsharp round zone near the center, then sharp zone again and unsharp circle around it one more time, sharp left and right far sides and unsharp far corners (diagonal). It's weird. The wavy shape of the image field makes this lens unusable for landscapes or cityscapes, however the lens is sharp and nice at other settings.
Hasselblads from H3 onwards have built-in AF correction for recomposing - it is called "True Focus". The lens is basically sending the information to the camera body on its angle of inclination at the set distance to the object and the camera makes the correction after setting composition you're after. In mirrorless, where everything is AF point, you don't need that at all.
So, Matt... If you're willing to use one camera (FE or FM), it is good a idea to buy B-type focusing screen to perform focus by eye. But there's better solution.
Sell all these cameras and buy F2AS and install the radical H-type screen (whole image field is covered in pyramids) - H3 to be precise, but it has a drawback of not giving you any information on DoF. Are you okay with losing DoF preview? This is the most accurate solution for Nikon film cameras and is wondrous for shooting in low light.
Thanks, excellent detail thank you! Yes I know of Hasselblad True Focus... personal I use edge of focus screen now. If not I would have a 4-focus dance as the model may not be standing completely still so I have to focus shoot fast. I am looking to maybe get the K3 screen. I need (must have) split prism for everything over 1 meter. On Hasselblad 500s I have 1 screen for up close (plain acute-matte d) and 1 split prism for more rare distant shots. I like the size and weight of these Nikon F cameras more than the "better" F2/F3 etc.
Always used Pentax mx's for 35mm film since the 70's but picked up a 2nd hand Fm3a a couple of years ago and really love it (and the ais lens range). Also used a 503cw for 120 film. Great video and you're great knowledge. Keep them coming :)
Thanks Richard, yes I’m happy with Nikon for SLR stuff. Good to hear you have a Hassy. I did a video last year on those, see the MF playlist if interested!
"Always used Pentax mx's" - That Pentax model is dynamite ! - HUGE viewfinder view, a wonderful LED meter, a robust shutter (made for 5 FPS motor drives) and
all in THE MOST COMPACT SLR ! - I have 3 truly 'mint' FM3a units (being the last of the FE version chassis, it's considered collectable), one of them has a non-functioning ASA dial (moving the ASA doesn't change the meter sensitivity). As a technician for photographic cameras, I get many requests to 'fix' malfunctioning FM3a cameras...
You asked a question about focusing that I do not think was answered. What I do is to get the surrounding screen to the split finder in focus then do the final check/fine tuning with the split center. This quickens the focusing process for me.
Thanks! I since bought a FM3a so video still to come
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom I’ll be watching for it! Your videos are very informative.
I have a Nikon Fe, Fe2, F100 and most of the time I take my cheap F301, because it's the best camera I've ever used.
Thanks Gert, please don't tell me this!! I can't buy even more cameras! :) .. but interesting to hear and thanks.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Sorry hahahaha, I understand.
@@GertDHoll :)
How does the F301 feel in hand? I sold my N90s because it just felt so cheap compared to my F100.
hi Matt! great review! I'm trying to choose my first film camera and its hard. At first i just thought 'ill get the first one i see' and now i cant choose after exploring other cameras. My options are the Canon A1, Nikon FE2, Nikon FM2, Nikon FG, and Minolta x-700. From my options which would you choose for a starter? hope you can reply :)
Hi, I always try to reply. As first camera the Minoltas are cheap and can work well, Nikon FM2/FE2 much better built, do the same job but feel much more quality (i'd get one of those, either is fine, see Nikon review to see comparison), and I've not tried the other cameras.
to answer your question to the class haha, i shoot my FE2 with the grid screen and i honestly prefer it. i was finding the split image and micro prism to get "blurry" for me and i was getting shots back that i was missing focus. i started using my eye on the Matte part of the screen and double checking with the split image and micro prism instead of relying on it and i was starting to get sharper shots. i guess what im trying to say is that ive been in your shoes and you're on the right track!
Thanks for the info! I need the the split prism for greater than 1.5m ish but yes close up I prefer the edge of the screen. Many thanks!
Would the Nikon F3 or F5 be a better choice over the FM3a ? It's about half the cost. Thank you, this was a very formative video.
Thanks Tony, in the video I was trying to stick to this line of bodies but yes see my F5 video for that, also great, and I hear others like their F3 too.
Great video. My 2 cents: if 1/1000 is enough for you and you don't need flash TTL, the FE does everything. Just bring some spare batteries (which are very cheap btw). The "reliability of the electronics" isn't a thing: the electronics of the FE simply won't break, or at least the probability is far inferior to the probability that the electronics of a digital camera stops working... Another story is close focusing at wide apertures (below f/2): you better keep your focus point in the center, where you can use the split screen, or recompose but not too much. Otherwise, use a camera with a reliable af module... At f/1.2 if you really want to recompose a tight portrait you should move your feet, in order to keep the focus plane intact: just moving the camera will move the focus point on a sphere, but lenses are designed to minimize field curvature, so those millimeters of discrepancy between the sphere and the plane of focus will easily be too much for the thin depth of field of a 50mm 1.2
Thank you great tips. Yes many agree these old Nikon lenses are well built and need less servicing verses Leica R etc
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom I can not speak for the Leica glass, unfortunately :-) Very nice channel and beautiful shots btw