I do this all the time during seasonal wheel changes, including drums. I'm in Toronto where we salt our winter's. My mechanic's tip years ago has my wheels slip right off after the bolts are loose. Also offers great rust protection.
All wheels were seized on my brand new Jeep Wrangler the first time I went to rotate the tires. It pissed me off that the manufacturer couldn't take this small step. Now, after about $0.05 of anti-seize the wheels come off very easily. I'd recommend doing this as soon as you get delivery of a new vehicle.
Typical Chrysler product. Dont be surprised at stuff like this. I work at the Toledo assembly line and emphasis is always put on working faster and faster and not on quality workmanship.
I use light anti seize on the entire hub face after cleaning. Ever since doing this my wheel bearings last virtually forever due to not needing to beat the rotors off. it works for me and I've never had brake fade or anything due to this. I've also used fluid film but it gets a little more messy.
Same here. I do always gauge the condition of the car to determine how much I put. Some cars (like big Chevy full size SUVs) ALWAYS have rims that stick, so I will coat the whole hub similar to what you describe. For some other cars (most cars, tbh lol) I just put around the hub ring. No matter the car, nothing wrong at all with the way you do it.
@@NexusAuto another tip that's gotten me out of hot water is to clamp a piece of sacraficial steel or wood the the rotor and the blast it with an impact hammer with a flat face attachment. I hate hammering the hub face or rotor as it seems to stress the wheel bearings a bit too much.
As long as it is not an excessive amount, putting anti-seize on the entire hub face will not cause issues. We do not for cars that go up north often, and it helps and there is no issues. But unless you have extreme weather or heat, you really only need it around the hub ring. As long as the wheels are torqued up ok, you will be fine otherwise
Thanks ,, video made every thing make sense,, I could not get my rims off of my F150,,, had to have dealership take off to put on steel rims with snow tires,. Now going to put rims on for summer, I used a wire wheel on a drill to clean the rims,,, quick question,, would painting the steel area with anti-rust paint on the hubs then adding the seize work as well ?? thx ..
Great news. Glad to hear the video cleared things up a bit. As long as the painted surface is kept completely smooth (so not allowing the paint to be thicker on corner, for example), there is nothing wrong with painting it. However, the constant weather exposure and heat and cold (depending on where you live) will likely mean the paint will not last. It will help though. Honestly, even the anti-seize on its on works wonders.
Do you use Anti-Seize on bolts on your Shocks, Control arms, Sway Bar Links? Mainly Shocks and rear upper control arm & triangle triple bolt plate that ball joint bolts to via nut. I'm wanting to put Nickel Anti-Seize by Loctite on my rear shocks on shaft of bolt so it can't bond to the brackets you bolt through and then use Loctite 242/248 Blue or Permatex 25210 Orange on the threads, but only a dab. What Anti-Seize do you recommend? I've heard copper can break down Steel bolts and cause galling of the threads. My 02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L V8 has surface rust all over underside, rotors, wheel knuckle bracket, outside of calipers, Shocks mount bracket for bolts. The bolt for my rear shocks are basically rust bonded in. M12x1.75x80mm for top bolt M12x1.75x70mm for bottom (partial corse thread, SAE Grade 8/Metric Grade 10.9, Yellow Zinc, Flanged Hex Head/Flanged Locking Nut)
I don't have a direct yes or no answer to what I put anti-seize on. I have put them on some shock bolts, but not all. If it needs threadlocker, I will not put any anti-seize, and just use the threadlocker. If it is the smooth part of a bolt that goes through a bushing, (like a trailing arm), I will put some on there. If I am removing a bolt for service and there was a lot of corrosion on the bolt, I will put some on there too. But not all cars have that issue, even when old, and the bolts come out with minimal effort, so I won't bother put any there. All depends.. I would say to judge each situation and the safety of each item and make judgement calls from that. If you're not sure, don't put any on
@@NexusAuto Thank you for the reply... I live in Missouri where it's always around 80-90% humidity, salt on roads in winter, and nearly every car past 10 years has rust all over the bottom. I'm thinking of putting Nickel-Graf on the sock bolt shafts and Permatex Orange 25210 on the threads? I already use Nickel Anti-Seize on lug nuts and wheel hub contact areas that usually rust. But I reduce the torque by 30% like Ajax recommended which is the worlds leading bolt/fastener manufacturer with some of the best engineers. Torque Compemsation Formula is: ▪︎ OEM Dry Torque x 0.7 = Wet Torque-spec. 95 Ft-Lbs (Dry) * 0.7 = 66.5 Ft-Lbs (Wet) Multiplying 0.7 by dry Torque-spec reduces value by 30% which compensates for the reduced thread friction when heavily lubed. 25% with Threadlocker. 40% with 30 Oil. They state that all fastener threads only have 15-20% thread contact dry and threadlockers/anti-seize compound helps seal up the contact to 95% reducing moisture and possibility for corrosion. Loctite (Henkel-Adhesives) states Copper anti-seize causes inter-crystalline corrosion with stainless steel parts(bolts) which can cause then to crack, break & fail under heavy loads so I use Nickel. I'm really only wondering about shocks and control arms with the metal inserts in the bushings that can rust to bolt shaft and mounting surface?
@@CameronDC-Grimes ah gotcha. Looks like you have an excellent info and spec set up for what you're doing! To answer your question, there is nothing wrong with putting antiseize on the sleeves and that is something I do whenever possible. It should have little to no affect on torque values as well
@@NexusAuto yeah I'm even ordering Loctite 290 Green threadlocker which is meant to out on already fastened and torqued bolt threads. It's wicking grade.
@@CameronDC-Grimes nice! To be honest, I never used or heard of 290 Green. I had to look it up after what you mentioned. Interesting stuff. Thanks for the info!
I should start by saying I have never used Red and Tacky for a hub surface before, so I do not have personal experience with it. However, from the information from Lucas and a few forums, it should be suitable for the hub face
Antiseize should work, I would think. There is copper or nickel...I think either one should work ok. I assume this is between the spacer and hub, or spacer and wheel?
It's not a good idea. It will work initially, but the constant movement of pads and calipers, even small movements, will eventually make the Permatex turn hard, almost like clay. It will take a few thousand miles, but it will happen. Better to use caliper lube.
You did not mention never seizing the rotor screw that most struggle with. Tip, most take a JIS screwdriver. I am not sure if you used never seize on the lugs. If you did you should mention that the torque specs for a greased bolt is 70 percent of the dry spec. Good video.
I didn't mention the screw because it's not part of the video. This is more for when you're doing a tire swap. Removing those screws in the rust belt will need way more than a JIS screwdriver. Often, I have to use my impact driver, because they're seized, as you mentioned. That's best left for a brake video. Also, I never put antiseize on lugs, so it's not mentioned or shown in the video.
@@silencewoofer I get you asked it, but I wanted to make sure we were on the same page. Thought that was obvious. Unless you want someone to answer your question the wrong way. It is your question, after all. To answer your question, no, it antiseize is not really an insulator, and therefore, it provides very little in the way of temperature transfer. It is more to protect against moisture and corrosion. If may provide some slight temperature protection, but if it does, it would be minimal, and make virtually no difference.
Whenever the wheel is removed it is a good practice to clean and inspect the back of the wheel, especially the back. Good chance to not only clean but check for corrosion, cracking. Anti Seize on the rotor backing surface and hub lip is a good plan but I would recommend against using it on the threads. If proper tire maintenance is followed the tires should be removed for rotation every 5000-6000 miles which in theory unless it is a weekend driver or collectible should not have enough time for the lug nuts/studs to be able to seize. A Sanding disc, Scotchbrite pad on the end of a drill. Along with some brake cleaner, WD-40 will go a long way towards removing the corrosion and dirt on the rotor backing surface. Makes quick work and cleans up the rotor surface nicely.
This has been a debated topic since before I got into cars over 20 years ago. But whenever I ask 'why?' I could never get a straight answer. It's one of those weird Industry things that just kept being passed down. However, I think a big part of it, is that those say people who don't torque their wheels are the ones saying this is dangerous. I think that may have something to do with it, but that's my own speculation 🤷🏾♂️ There is some merit with people debating putting antiseize on the wheel studs. But putting it on the wheel hub has no adverse effects on the wheels, the safety of the vehicle, and it's operation, as long as everything is torqued correctly (which it should be, regardless of using antiseize or not). That's my personal take and opinion.
@@NexusAuto yeah I’m confused rn I’m just trying to inform myself as best I can. I recently bought some new rims and wheels so I want to take care of them as best as possible and thanks for the reply !
@@s.s.5936 absolutely! That's honestly the best way...talk to many people, get different answers and reasoning. Nothing wrong with asking! I hear you on wanting to protect your investment too!
I've been putting it on the rim but not on the axle. Thanks for the tip.
No problem at all. Nothing wrong with putting some on the rim too
I've been doing this on my brake rotors were the meet the axle and I've never had a stuck rotor since!
Same here. Any car that I do tire changes or brake rotors, I also put some on. Never had an issue with those car again. I would 100% recommend it.
Reading the comments i am reminded of a question that might make a video; when to use theead locker and when to use anti seez.
🤔 may not be a bad idea to make a video on that
I do this all the time during seasonal wheel changes, including drums. I'm in Toronto where we salt our winter's. My mechanic's tip years ago has my wheels slip right off after the bolts are loose. Also offers great rust protection.
I agree 100%. Makes a huge difference. And never had an issue since doing it.
All wheels were seized on my brand new Jeep Wrangler the first time I went to rotate the tires. It pissed me off that the manufacturer couldn't take this small step. Now, after about $0.05 of anti-seize the wheels come off very easily. I'd recommend doing this as soon as you get delivery of a new vehicle.
Wow! That's crazy! It is a pain in the ass, but glad to hear you got the wheels off and antiseize applied.
Typical Chrysler product. Dont be surprised at stuff like this. I work at the Toledo assembly line and emphasis is always put on working faster and faster and not on quality workmanship.
I use light anti seize on the entire hub face after cleaning. Ever since doing this my wheel bearings last virtually forever due to not needing to beat the rotors off. it works for me and I've never had brake fade or anything due to this. I've also used fluid film but it gets a little more messy.
Same here. I do always gauge the condition of the car to determine how much I put. Some cars (like big Chevy full size SUVs) ALWAYS have rims that stick, so I will coat the whole hub similar to what you describe. For some other cars (most cars, tbh lol) I just put around the hub ring. No matter the car, nothing wrong at all with the way you do it.
@@NexusAuto another tip that's gotten me out of hot water is to clamp a piece of sacraficial steel or wood the the rotor and the blast it with an impact hammer with a flat face attachment. I hate hammering the hub face or rotor as it seems to stress the wheel bearings a bit too much.
I put some on the face too around the hub would that be bad?
As long as it is not an excessive amount, putting anti-seize on the entire hub face will not cause issues. We do not for cars that go up north often, and it helps and there is no issues. But unless you have extreme weather or heat, you really only need it around the hub ring. As long as the wheels are torqued up ok, you will be fine otherwise
Thanks ,, video made every thing make sense,, I could not get my rims off of my F150,,, had to have dealership take off to put on steel rims with snow tires,. Now going to put rims on for summer, I used a wire wheel on a drill to clean the rims,,, quick question,, would painting the steel area with anti-rust paint on the hubs then adding the seize work as well ?? thx ..
Great news. Glad to hear the video cleared things up a bit. As long as the painted surface is kept completely smooth (so not allowing the paint to be thicker on corner, for example), there is nothing wrong with painting it. However, the constant weather exposure and heat and cold (depending on where you live) will likely mean the paint will not last. It will help though. Honestly, even the anti-seize on its on works wonders.
@@NexusAuto Thanks for getting back to me..
Do you use Anti-Seize on bolts on your Shocks, Control arms, Sway Bar Links? Mainly Shocks and rear upper control arm & triangle triple bolt plate that ball joint bolts to via nut.
I'm wanting to put Nickel Anti-Seize by Loctite on my rear shocks on shaft of bolt so it can't bond to the brackets you bolt through and then use Loctite 242/248 Blue or Permatex 25210 Orange on the threads, but only a dab.
What Anti-Seize do you recommend?
I've heard copper can break down Steel bolts and cause galling of the threads.
My 02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L V8 has surface rust all over underside, rotors, wheel knuckle bracket, outside of calipers, Shocks mount bracket for bolts.
The bolt for my rear shocks are basically rust bonded in. M12x1.75x80mm for top bolt
M12x1.75x70mm for bottom
(partial corse thread, SAE Grade 8/Metric Grade 10.9, Yellow Zinc, Flanged Hex Head/Flanged Locking Nut)
I don't have a direct yes or no answer to what I put anti-seize on. I have put them on some shock bolts, but not all. If it needs threadlocker, I will not put any anti-seize, and just use the threadlocker. If it is the smooth part of a bolt that goes through a bushing, (like a trailing arm), I will put some on there. If I am removing a bolt for service and there was a lot of corrosion on the bolt, I will put some on there too. But not all cars have that issue, even when old, and the bolts come out with minimal effort, so I won't bother put any there. All depends.. I would say to judge each situation and the safety of each item and make judgement calls from that. If you're not sure, don't put any on
@@NexusAuto
Thank you for the reply...
I live in Missouri where it's always around 80-90% humidity, salt on roads in winter, and nearly every car past 10 years has rust all over the bottom.
I'm thinking of putting Nickel-Graf on the sock bolt shafts and Permatex Orange 25210 on the threads?
I already use Nickel Anti-Seize on lug nuts and wheel hub contact areas that usually rust. But I reduce the torque by 30% like Ajax recommended which is the worlds leading bolt/fastener manufacturer with some of the best engineers.
Torque Compemsation Formula is:
▪︎ OEM Dry Torque x 0.7 = Wet Torque-spec.
95 Ft-Lbs (Dry) * 0.7 = 66.5 Ft-Lbs (Wet)
Multiplying 0.7 by dry Torque-spec reduces value by 30% which compensates for the reduced thread friction when heavily lubed.
25% with Threadlocker.
40% with 30 Oil.
They state that all fastener threads only have 15-20% thread contact dry and threadlockers/anti-seize compound helps seal up the contact to 95% reducing moisture and possibility for corrosion.
Loctite (Henkel-Adhesives) states Copper anti-seize causes inter-crystalline corrosion with stainless steel parts(bolts) which can cause then to crack, break & fail under heavy loads so I use Nickel.
I'm really only wondering about shocks and control arms with the metal inserts in the bushings that can rust to bolt shaft and mounting surface?
@@CameronDC-Grimes ah gotcha. Looks like you have an excellent info and spec set up for what you're doing! To answer your question, there is nothing wrong with putting antiseize on the sleeves and that is something I do whenever possible. It should have little to no affect on torque values as well
@@NexusAuto yeah I'm even ordering Loctite 290 Green threadlocker which is meant to out on already fastened and torqued bolt threads. It's wicking grade.
@@CameronDC-Grimes nice! To be honest, I never used or heard of 290 Green. I had to look it up after what you mentioned. Interesting stuff. Thanks for the info!
Can I use Lucas's Red n Tachy grease for the hub face? Will it be a suitable use for it?
I should start by saying I have never used Red and Tacky for a hub surface before, so I do not have personal experience with it. However, from the information from Lucas and a few forums, it should be suitable for the hub face
Thanks for the video! Helped a lot!
No problem at all. Glad it helped!
Brother. What can I put on my spacers to prevent them from sticking. What type of lube ? The name
Antiseize should work, I would think. There is copper or nickel...I think either one should work ok. I assume this is between the spacer and hub, or spacer and wheel?
Is Permatex Silver anti-seize good for lubing brake parts?? (Other than caliper-slider pins)
It's not a good idea. It will work initially, but the constant movement of pads and calipers, even small movements, will eventually make the Permatex turn hard, almost like clay. It will take a few thousand miles, but it will happen. Better to use caliper lube.
You did not mention never seizing the rotor screw that most struggle with. Tip, most take a JIS screwdriver. I am not sure if you used never seize on the lugs. If you did you should mention that the torque specs for a greased bolt is 70 percent of the dry spec. Good video.
I didn't mention the screw because it's not part of the video. This is more for when you're doing a tire swap. Removing those screws in the rust belt will need way more than a JIS screwdriver. Often, I have to use my impact driver, because they're seized, as you mentioned. That's best left for a brake video.
Also, I never put antiseize on lugs, so it's not mentioned or shown in the video.
@@NexusAuto I meant you should put never seize on the screw and if the lugs are greased the torque specs are different.
But buddy uses this stuff he does this to everything I thank him for it
It does make a huge difference!
Thanks for this
No problem at all
Good job
Thanks, much appreciated.
copper, aluminum, or molybdenum anti-seize?
Copper or Nickel antiseize would work. Also, White Lithium grease works pretty good as well.
If I use anti seize Wheel contact to brake, can help cold brake's? Improve temperature transfer?
Let me get a better understanding of the question. Are you asking if putting antisieze between the rim and the wheel hub/rotor?
@@NexusAuto yes. I asked it.
@@silencewoofer I get you asked it, but I wanted to make sure we were on the same page. Thought that was obvious. Unless you want someone to answer your question the wrong way. It is your question, after all.
To answer your question, no, it antiseize is not really an insulator, and therefore, it provides very little in the way of temperature transfer. It is more to protect against moisture and corrosion. If may provide some slight temperature protection, but if it does, it would be minimal, and make virtually no difference.
Excellent content. Very well structured, concise, and informative. I appreciated the way you put forward the necessary TH-cam requests haha!
Thanks, really appreciate the feedback. Thanks for watching!
Thanks man!
No problem at all.
Whenever the wheel is removed it is a good practice to clean and inspect the back of the wheel, especially the back. Good chance to not only clean but check for corrosion, cracking.
Anti Seize on the rotor backing surface and hub lip is a good plan but I would recommend against using it on the threads. If proper tire maintenance is followed the tires should be removed for rotation every 5000-6000 miles which in theory unless it is a weekend driver or collectible should not have enough time for the lug nuts/studs to be able to seize.
A Sanding disc, Scotchbrite pad on the end of a drill. Along with some brake cleaner, WD-40 will go a long way towards removing the corrosion and dirt on the rotor backing surface. Makes quick work and cleans up the rotor surface nicely.
I’ve read that this is bad supposedly
This has been a debated topic since before I got into cars over 20 years ago. But whenever I ask 'why?' I could never get a straight answer. It's one of those weird Industry things that just kept being passed down.
However, I think a big part of it, is that those say people who don't torque their wheels are the ones saying this is dangerous. I think that may have something to do with it, but that's my own speculation 🤷🏾♂️
There is some merit with people debating putting antiseize on the wheel studs. But putting it on the wheel hub has no adverse effects on the wheels, the safety of the vehicle, and it's operation, as long as everything is torqued correctly (which it should be, regardless of using antiseize or not). That's my personal take and opinion.
@@NexusAuto yeah I’m confused rn I’m just trying to inform myself as best I can. I recently bought some new rims and wheels so I want to take care of them as best as possible and thanks for the reply !
@@s.s.5936 absolutely! That's honestly the best way...talk to many people, get different answers and reasoning. Nothing wrong with asking! I hear you on wanting to protect your investment too!