Man!!! That little washer on the strain gauge is a brilliant idea. I upgraded to an LDO Orbiter2 with a 6 Burner hotend kit off thingy... and the direct drive bends the strain gauge big time! First print on the printer now with the little washer and so far it is working great!!! Thanks so much buddy!
Just found your video. I recently assembled and began using my CR-10 Smart and I'm getting the clicking on the extruder. The nozzle seems to be getting clogged D causing the clicking. I can't figure out how to easily get the cover off of the extruder to see what might be causing this. It did the first few prints perfectly, but now it won't feed the filament. I get great bed adhesion though with nothing added. Once I get it going it does great, but I have a hard time getting it going every time. It seemed like turning it off and back on worked after times, so I keep on adding that to the routine, but it's not reliable. Any thoughts? Also, what extruder did you get?
Me too, in fact I removed those 2 screws in the middle of those rails because the bed was so hard to move. Now I´m getting cracks from de extruder after an hour of printing and the machine clogs. I don´t see that the extruder is broken but I will try to replace it for the one that you recommended.
Hello, thank you very much for your tips, I went through the same issues - problem with unlevellable hotbed and so on. I was able to fix some of them by myself, but your washer trick is very smart - I have tried it yesterday and works good. Thanks once more for sharing your experience, it´s very helpful! Please, did you face a "heavy stringing" issue? It´s just unbelievable, how much the filament permanently leaks from the nozzle. I have tried some tricks, but any of them didn´t make the difference.
Not really I have some stringing but not that much none if i turn off z hop. I have around 8 to 6 mm of retraction and I always have combing on, I print around 215 to 205c the lower temp the less stringing you have but it might leave to other problems.
I don't but I did basically the same as this video th-cam.com/video/5tC5sK2x5QI/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=YasmeenYarkspiri The only difference is that I also added self-locking nuts to prevent the screws from getting loose over time since using cuted Springs is just stupid imo and instead of using cork I used isolating foam like this one. www.amazon.es/-/pt/dp/B07W1Y5J8D/ref=sr_1_31?crid=15XHJFRHNPWA3&keywords=3d%2Bprinter%2Bbed%2Bisolation&qid=1696628337&sprefix=3d%2Bprinter%2Bbed%2Bisoaltion%2Caps%2C80&sr=8-31&th=1
So, I'm a noob. Already upgraded to an all metal extruder. I can print small items no problem, like 4cm x 4cm ish. If the print goes for more than an hour or two, something happens between the extruder and the nozzle, and the feed stops. I thought the metal extruder would help but first print, same issue. I was away for about an hour and the PLA was actually broken in the new extruder and not pushing. The tension is good based on all the videos I have watchednot too much, not too little. I believe that it something going on in the hotend is making it clog up and it stops the flow and then the extruder eats through the PLA. I ordered an all metal hotend, but I am not sure that it will fix my problem. I managed to get the auto leveling working great with some additional gcode start commands, so I want to keep that feature. My question is, does your washer trick make the hotend more reliable or does it only affect the build quality? Also, if I use the washer, will the auto bed leveling still work? is there a setting I am not accounting for? like I said, noob.
The washer solves many problems mainly print quality, bed adhesion and extruder clicking since it prevents the head from moving down by the extruder pressure. Bed levelling should still work as long as your wahser is not bigger than 1mm. In terms of settings if you changed the extruder you should definitely look in to your e steps since they will not be the same as the old extruder here's a video that can help you. th-cam.com/video/rp3r921DBGI/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TeachingTech
@@Im_K4tana thank you for responding and for making this video. I mainly didn't understand what size washer you used, but also exactly what it does and how it does it.
@@iansutube wen filament is being extruded it exerts downward presure on the enductive presure sensor that is used to level the bed, this leads to inconsistent layers lines that cause other problems like poor first layer adesion and even collisions whit the print, the washer prevents the nozzel from bending pushed down by the extruder solving the issue I mentioned above.
@K4tana thanks for the info. I've had my cr 10 smart unopened for a little over a year now. Been too scared it would be more than I want to tinker with.
@@ImmortalTheory well out of the box it definitely has its issues but nothing it can't be fixed, you might be lucky and have no issues at all but if you do you can always come back to this video and I can give you some advice
Im not used to doing these type of videos I just wanted to put this information out there to help someone, since theres very littel comunity support for the cr10 smart.
Oh man.. genius with the washer.. exactly what is plaguing my machine now!
Man!!! That little washer on the strain gauge is a brilliant idea. I upgraded to an LDO Orbiter2 with a 6 Burner hotend kit off thingy... and the direct drive bends the strain gauge big time! First print on the printer now with the little washer and so far it is working great!!! Thanks so much buddy!
I'm so glad this video keeps helping people love to se comments like yours 😊. You're wellcome
The strain gauge is useless, if the pronterface is connected, ABL is turned off and 4 wheels are installed, the entire table is perfect result.
Just found your video. I recently assembled and began using my CR-10 Smart and I'm getting the clicking on the extruder. The nozzle seems to be getting clogged D causing the clicking. I can't figure out how to easily get the cover off of the extruder to see what might be causing this. It did the first few prints perfectly, but now it won't feed the filament. I get great bed adhesion though with nothing added. Once I get it going it does great, but I have a hard time getting it going every time. It seemed like turning it off and back on worked after times, so I keep on adding that to the routine, but it's not reliable. Any thoughts? Also, what extruder did you get?
Me too, in fact I removed those 2 screws in the middle of those rails because the bed was so hard to move. Now I´m getting cracks from de extruder after an hour of printing and the machine clogs. I don´t see that the extruder is broken but I will try to replace it for the one that you recommended.
Great video! Thank you!
Hello, thank you very much for your tips, I went through the same issues - problem with unlevellable hotbed and so on. I was able to fix some of them by myself, but your washer trick is very smart - I have tried it yesterday and works good. Thanks once more for sharing your experience, it´s very helpful! Please, did you face a "heavy stringing" issue? It´s just unbelievable, how much the filament permanently leaks from the nozzle. I have tried some tricks, but any of them didn´t make the difference.
Not really I have some stringing but not that much none if i turn off z hop. I have around 8 to 6 mm of retraction and I always have combing on, I print around 215 to 205c the lower temp the less stringing you have but it might leave to other problems.
Brilliant video! Trying your manual level mod in a few days,
Do you have a video on how you did the bed leveling knobs? I just did a sonic pad upgrade and its been trying bc of bed leveling.
I don't but I did basically the same as this video
th-cam.com/video/5tC5sK2x5QI/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=YasmeenYarkspiri
The only difference is that I also added self-locking nuts to prevent the screws from getting loose over time since using cuted Springs is just stupid imo and instead of using cork I used isolating foam like this one.
www.amazon.es/-/pt/dp/B07W1Y5J8D/ref=sr_1_31?crid=15XHJFRHNPWA3&keywords=3d%2Bprinter%2Bbed%2Bisolation&qid=1696628337&sprefix=3d%2Bprinter%2Bbed%2Bisoaltion%2Caps%2C80&sr=8-31&th=1
thanks very helpful video,,, i getting every time a differente leveling
Great video! Thanks! Do you know if a bltouch could be added instead the plate?
Nope unless you completely change the motherboard and the head there's no way to do it.
So, I'm a noob. Already upgraded to an all metal extruder. I can print small items no problem, like 4cm x 4cm ish. If the print goes for more than an hour or two, something happens between the extruder and the nozzle, and the feed stops. I thought the metal extruder would help but first print, same issue. I was away for about an hour and the PLA was actually broken in the new extruder and not pushing. The tension is good based on all the videos I have watchednot too much, not too little. I believe that it something going on in the hotend is making it clog up and it stops the flow and then the extruder eats through the PLA. I ordered an all metal hotend, but I am not sure that it will fix my problem. I managed to get the auto leveling working great with some additional gcode start commands, so I want to keep that feature.
My question is, does your washer trick make the hotend more reliable or does it only affect the build quality? Also, if I use the washer, will the auto bed leveling still work? is there a setting I am not accounting for? like I said, noob.
The washer solves many problems mainly print quality, bed adhesion and extruder clicking since it prevents the head from moving down by the extruder pressure.
Bed levelling should still work as long as your wahser is not bigger than 1mm.
In terms of settings if you changed the extruder you should definitely look in to your e steps since they will not be the same as the old extruder here's a video that can help you.
th-cam.com/video/rp3r921DBGI/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TeachingTech
What was the thickness of the washer you used?
hi sorry for the late reply its about 1mm thick
Hey, I purchased that OMG extruder but I’m having issues with it. If you get a chance, I would appreciate some help. Thanks!
Hi how can I help did you change the e steps ?
@@Im_K4tana no, how I do that? This is my first printer so I’m still learning.
@@noelgonzalez8132 I will send you the values of mine wen I get off work today and will explain you how to change it's very simple
I don't understand the washer. What size is it. Is it a metal washer?
@@iansutube Yes it's around 10 mm by 1 mm, what don't you understand about the washer ?
@@Im_K4tana thank you for responding and for making this video. I mainly didn't understand what size washer you used, but also exactly what it does and how it does it.
@@iansutube wen filament is being extruded it exerts downward presure on the enductive presure sensor that is used to level the bed, this leads to inconsistent layers lines that cause other problems like poor first layer adesion and even collisions whit the print, the washer prevents the nozzel from bending pushed down by the extruder solving the issue I mentioned above.
Hello, I have the same device, I am having a lot of problems, can you help me?
Sure what are your problems ?
@@Im_K4tana i have quite a lot of problems, do you use instagram
@@Biolumiverse Yes I sent it to your email.
@@Biolumiverse tell me if you recived it
@@Im_K4tana I couldn't get it, can you write to this address @brsykt0
What is the fillament mover you out on?
I'm not sure I understand your question but this is the extruder I have on my printer
a.aliexpress.com/_mrStHsQ
@@Im_K4tana ah yes, the extruder. Thank you.
Is that a fender washer or normal washer? I read you said it was 1 mm thick, but what's the inside and outside diameter of the washer?
15mm the hole is about 4mm
@K4tana thanks for the info. I've had my cr 10 smart unopened for a little over a year now. Been too scared it would be more than I want to tinker with.
@@ImmortalTheory well out of the box it definitely has its issues but nothing it can't be fixed, you might be lucky and have no issues at all but if you do you can always come back to this video and I can give you some advice
@K4tana I appreciate the offer. I may have to take you up on that. You think I should add the washer right away, or only if I have issues?
@@ImmortalTheory You should allways do a test print before you change anything about the machine cause if something isn't broke you shouldnt fix it.
very helpful information (when having such problems). but: the camera movements are horrible to follow all the time....
Im not used to doing these type of videos I just wanted to put this information out there to help someone, since theres very littel comunity support for the cr10 smart.
@@Im_K4tana it's fine, as I said, the content is useful. the other part was just a suggestion for further videos ;-)
You know your glass bed is on upside down right?
Wow realy No waaay -.- dude ... why do you think its upside down ?
bad machine i have one. leveling problems. trouble with this machine doesn't buy not recommended.